60-Minute Gift: Bake ‘n’ Fry Dividers

The holiday season is approaching and now is the time to start sewing and making gifts for friends and families. Today I will be sharing a quick project which can be made in under an hour to brighten up your kitchen drawers and protect your non stick cooking surfaces.

1 x Summerville Layer Cake
1 yd Bella solid snow 9900-11
1 yd Flannel
Light weight iron on pellon
Fusible web

Baking Tray Liners ( 30 mins )

• Measure the baking tray. Record the measurement. For the purpose of this tutorial I will be making a liner to suit a 10″ x 15″ base. If you have have a smaller or larger tray, add 1/2″ to the measured length and width.

• From the solid cut 12 x 1 1/2″ strips
• From the print cut 12 x 1 1/2″ strips

• Alternate the solid and print and sew strips together
• Finished block is 8 1/2″ x 10″
• Make 3 blocks

• Cut each block twice on the diagonal

• Sew 2 triangles together to make a half square triangle (HST). Repeat with remaining triangles.
• Square each HST to 5 1/2″

• Arrange in 2 rows of 3 blocks each
• Sew together
• Finished top measures 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″

• From the solid cut 1 – 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ piece
• From the iron on pellon cut 1 – 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ piece
• Press the pellon to the wrong side of the solid piece
• Place the solid and top piece right sides together. Pellon will be on the outside.

• Sew 1/4″ from edge leaving a 4″ gap at the top for turning.

• Trim the corners and turn out. Use a stiletto or pointed object to push out seams and corners.
• Fold under opening 1/4″ and top stitch 1/8″ around edge of liner.

• Trace the letters ‘BAKE’ (these can be found in the Printer Friendly file at the bottom of this post) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
• Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
• Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
• Position and press onto front of liner
• Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

Hint: These liners are meant to be scrappy in nature. There are unlimited block designs and scrappy settings that could be used as long as the unfinished top is 1/2″ longer and wider than the base of the tray.

Frying Pans ( 30 mins)

•  Measure the diameter of the pan including the sides.  Record the measurement.

• Cut strips from the Layer Cake and make a piece measuring 10″ x 48″
• Using a 60 degree triangle ruler or the 60 degree marking on your ruler, cut 6 triangles from the strip

• Sew 3 triangles together. Repeat.

• Join the two rows together.

• Cut a circle ( using a compass / pencil and string / large plate ) 1″ larger than the diameter, including sides, of your pan. For example, my pan measured 15 1/2″ from side to side. I would cut a circle with diameter of 16 1/2″

N.B The hexagon made from the 6 triangles can accommodate a circle up to 17″ in diameter.

•  From the flannel cut a circle the same size as the top

• Place the flannel and top piece wrong sides together.
• Sew 1/4″ from edge using a shorter stitch
• Using pinking shears, cut around edge 1/8″ away from stitching.

N.B these liners do not require pellon

Two options for appliqué 

• Cut a piece 6″ x 10″ from print
• Stitch to centre of liner
• Trace the letters ‘FRY’ ( these can be found in the PDF format for this project ) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
• Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
• Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
• Position and press onto 6″ x 10″ piece
• Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

• Cut a 5 1/2″ circle from layer cake
• Stitch to centre of liner
• Trace the letters ‘FRY’ ( these can be found in the PDF format for this project ) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
• Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
• Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
• Position and press onto liner centre
• Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

Two baking and fry pan liners to dress up your kitchen drawers and protect your non stick surfaces.

Jane Davidson
{quiltjane.blogspot.com}

A Window to Summer Quilt

Hi, it’s Kristy here from Handmade Retro. You know how there are some times that you have the time and energy to work on something really involved and intricate and others where you just feel like a simple sew with very little cutting? This quilt is for those times like the second option. It is also a great option for simple graphic prints or novelty prints you don’t want to chop up too small.

1 x charm pack of Summersville by Lucie Summers

0.5 yard of Bella Solids in Betty’s Orange (9900-124), Kelly (9900-76), Christmas Red (9900-16), Horizon Blue (9900-111), Black (9900-99)

2.5 yards in Bella Solids Snow (9900-11) – for top and binding
3.75 yards for backing (I used the green leaf  print – 31703 15)

For Quilting

DMC Perle 8 thread in Black (310), Orange (900), Green (702)
Finca Perle 8 thread in Red (1490), Verigated Aqua/Teal (9770), Cream (1211)

Cutting
From the cream solid
Cut 7 – 2.5″ strips – set these aside from the binding
Cut 12 – 5.25″ strips and cross cut into 5.25″ squares.

You will be able to get 7 squares from each strip – you will need 84 squares total.

Cut each of the squares into triangles in half from corner to corner – you will end up with 168.

From the Orange Solid
Cut 1 strip 4″ wide – cross cut into 10 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner as the cream solid.
You need to finish with 20 triangles.

From the Red Solid
Cut 1 strip 4″ wide – cross cut into 10 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner as the fabrics earlier.
You need to finish with 20 triangles.

From the Green Solid 
Cut 2 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 18 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
You need to finish with 36 triangles.

From the Black Solid
Cut 2 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 20 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
You need to finish with 40 triangles.

From the Teal Solid
Cut 3 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 26 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
You need to finish with 52 triangles.

That’s it. All the cutting is done.

Sewing

Split your bundle into color families – in Summersville you will have 5 (from left to right – black, red, blue, green, orange). All the blocks will be constructed in the same way – just with the matching solid.

Find the center of two opposite sides of a charm square and finger press to mark. Take two corresponding color triangles and find the center on the long side in the same way.

Match the center marks and pin at the center mark and each end, you will have some overhang on each end. That’s a good thing. 

Sew both seams.
Tip: I worked with one color at a time, pinning the triangles onto opposite side of all the squares of one color and then chain piecing them down one side and then the other.

Press the triangles open to end up with something like this. I recommend pressing your seams towards the triangle.

Find the center of the two sides without a triangle and finder press to mark. Do the same with the rest of  the triangles and pin. Sew, chain piecing as before.

Press triangle out – you’ve got a square again! Trim the dog ears from the center of each of the four sides.

The cream triangles are added in exactly the same way – the only difference is I only mark the center on the triangle – I match this with the point of the charm square – this is not the edge of the seam on the edge of the block!

 Sew a triangle on opposite sides, press out, repeat with the remaining sides. Trim the new dog ears.

Another square!

Repeat with all the other colors.

Lay out your blocks until you are happy with the distribution of the colours. You should have 42 blocks for a 6×7 layout.

When you are satisfied ,sew the blocks together in rows, then pairs, then fours, then join and add on the last row nesting seams between the blocks and pressing row seams towards the bottom of the quilt.

You have a quilt top!

Finishing

Basting

I pin baste my quilts. First I tape the backing to the floor pulling tight (but not stretching the fabric) and taping the edges flat. 

Tip: If you have joins or designs you want to match up the floorboards joints or tile grout lines can be helpful here!

Quilting

For this quilt I hand quilted with Perle cotton No. 5 (see garnishes for colors I used) ¼” outside the print square and in a square inside the larger cream areas.

Binding

I use straight of grain binding, machine sew to the front, mitering corners and hand stitched to the back.

54″x62″  lap size quilt

Kristy Ward
{handmaderetro.blogspot.com}

 

Framed Art Pillows

Hi, I am Lynne, a UK quilter from Lily’s Quilts.  As soon as I saw Lu Summers’ new line for Moda, Summersville, I had lots of ideas for quilts and pillows.  I also wanted to come up with a quick and simple pillow project to use the statement print layer cake slices we probably all have in our stash.   These pillows are quick to make and are a piece of art for your sofa.  They would also make great gifts for friends who might not appreciate the fussiness, intricacy and patchworkiness of some quilted pillows but would love a bold and simple statement piece for their home.  If you make a version of this pillow, I would love to see it in my Lily’s Quilts Flickr group.

One layer cake slice per pillow

Two 2″ WOF strips of moda bella solids in a colour coordinating with the layer cake slice for the first frame

Two 5/8″ WOF strips of moda bella solids in a colour coordinating with the “mount” for the skinny strip frame

One FQ of fabric for the “mount” (cross hatch fabric in these pillows)

Three WOF strips of black moda bella solids for the binding

1/2 yd fabric for the backing

Batting / fusible fleece for the pillow front and for the pillow back if desired

1.   Decide whether you want to use a whole layer cake slice or whether you want to trim it due to the fall of the pattern on it.  I left the blue layer cake slice whole but trimmed the red and black ones into rectangles to accommodate the pattern on them.

2.   Cut two 2″ WOF strips of a fabric that coordinates with the layer cake slice.  If you have cut the layer cake slice significantly smaller than 10″ square, you will need to increase the width of these strips or use more of the “mount” fabric to reach the same sized pillow as I made (19 1/2″ square).  I used moda bella solids natural here.  Sash the layer cake slice.  Press towards the sashing strip.

3.   Cut two 5/8″ WOF slices of a moda bella solid that coordinates with the fabric you have chosen for the mount.  Moda recommends the following bella solids to coordinate with Summersville: christmas red, bettys orange, horizon blue, kelly green and black.  Sash the layer cake slice again.  You will end up with a visible strip of 1/8″ when this strip is fully pieced.  Press toward the skinny strip.

4.   Cut the FQ of the mount fabric (I used the Summersville cross hatch fabrics for this) into four strips of 4 1/2″ X 22″.  Sash the layer cake slice once again, press towards the mount fabrics and trim to the size required for your pillow (I trimmed to 19 1/2″ square).

5.   Baste a square of wadding to the back of the pillow top.  I used a fusible fleece {I ironed on and did not quilt the pillow top because I prefer to keep it simpler}.  You could do the same with wadding and basting spray or you could quilt the pillow top onto the batting.  I do not use a backing fabric to the fusible fleece but you may want to.

6.   To make the pillow backing, cut two pieces of backing fabric {I used a moda cross weave in natural} 19 1/2″ X 13″ and 19 1/2″ X 10″.  If you want a padded back, cut two pieces of wadding or fusible fleece and attach to the backing fabric by fusing or using basting spray or with some light quilting.  Again you may wish to add backing fabric to these sections but I do not.

7.   Cut one 1 1/2″ WOF strip of binding fabric {I used moda bella solid washed black} and bind one of the 19 1/2″ edges of each of the two pieces of backing fabric as you would bind a quilt but using one layer of fabric rather than a folded binding.

8.   Pin the pillow top to the backing right sides out with the bound edges of the backing crossing over each other with a 3-4″ overlap {backing overlap shown in picture below} with one of the bound edges underneath the other.  Sew the pillow front and back together with a long wide zig zag stitch along the edges.

9.   Cut two 1 1/2″ WOF strips of binding fabric.  I used moda bella solids washed black.  Join these together with a diagonal seam.  Bind the pillow as you would a quilt but using a single rather than a folded binding.  I choose a single binding as it is less bulky than a folded binding but you can use a folded binding if you prefer.

One 19 1/2″ X 19 1/2″ pillow.   I made a set of three: red, blue and black. 

Lynne Goldsworthy

{lilysquilts.blogspot.com}