Make Life Shower Curtain

Hey everybody! I’m Tam from Sew Dang Cute, and I’m excited to be back here on the Moda Bake Shop to share another project with you – a shower curtain!

If you like free fabric, hurry over to my blog to enter a HUGE giveaway I’m having right now. Let’s get started on that shower curtain, shall we?

*All seams 1/4″ unless otherwise noted.

– 1 honey bun
– 1/2 yd fabric
– 3 yds fabric
– Coordinating thread

1. We are going to start with our diagonal stripwork. Randomly cut some pieces from your honey bun strips. Go ahead, just cut whatever sizes makes you happy. You’ll end up using the entire honey bun. I laid mine out on my cutting board and started in the corner. Once you’ve determined your angle, start laying pieces down like so, until you’ve reached 17″, which is as tall as we will go. Sew your cut pieces RST (right sides together) along the 1 1/2″ sides to form a strip. Finish the seams by either serging or zig-zag stitching. From here you just keep cutting pieces to form strips, then we need to sew all the strips together. As you sew the strips together, start the next strip about a 1/4″ down like so. They should look something like this. Finish the seams. Continue until your you have one big piece that is 74″ long. Press the seams all in one direction. Topstitch all the seams down. Trim the piece so you have one big rectangle measuring 17″ x 74″, then cut it into two pieces – 4 1/2″ x 74″ and 12 1/2″ x 74″.

2. From here I thought a pattern/diagram would be easiest to refer to instead of pictures. If needed, click on image to enlarge.
*Note: We are going to assume the width of the fabric is 42″.

Take your 1/2 yd of fabric (green), and cut (2) 5″ pieces and (2) 2″ pieces. From those cut them so you have the following pieces:

– (2) 18″ x 5″
– (1) 42″ x 5″
– (2) 18″ x 2″
– (1) 42″ x 2″

Sew the three 5″ pieces together to along the 5″ edge to form a row with the 42″ piece in the middle. (Refer to the diagram above). Finish seams and press. Repeat with the 2″ pieces.

3. Take your 3 yds of fabric (blue), and cut (2) 50″ pieces and (1) 7″ piece. From those cut the following:

– (2) 18″ x 50″ (You will need to get this first, then unfold to get the 18″ x 7″ pieces below)
– (1) 42″ x 50″
– (2) 18″ x 7″
– (1) 42″ x 7″

Sew the 7″ pieces together the same way as used in step 3. Finish seams and press. Repeat on the 50″ pieces. After pressing the 50″ seams, topstitch the seams down. (The other rows are so short that I didn’t bother topstitching them, however if you would like to, feel free to do so).

4. As a reminder, here’s the pattern again. 5. Now we are going to sew all our rows together as follows:

1. 7″ blue
2. 4 1/2″ diagonal strips
3. 2″ green
4. 50″ blue
5. 5″ green
6. 12 1/2″ diagonal strips

Finish seams. Press and topstitch. Trim all your sides up if necessary.

6. Let’s hem those sides and bottom edge. Fold a side edge 1/2″ towards the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Fold another 1/2″ and press. Stitch down. Repeat on the other side and the bottom.

7. Now for the top edge. I serged the top raw edge and folded it down 3″ and pressed. If you don’t have a serger, fold 1/4″ down and press, then fold another 2 3/4″ down and press. Stitch that hem down. You should now have something that looks like this. 8. The last thing we need to do is make some buttonholes for our curtain rings to go through. Lay your curtain out flat on the ground and mark where you want your buttonholes. I grabbed a shower curtain and laid it on top to mark mine. You should have 12 marks now, each about 1″ long and 6″ apart. Set your sewing machine to its buttonhole settings. Attach your buttonhole foot. **Check your machine’s manual for specific sewing instructions, because each machine can be different. My machine won’t sew buttonholes. In theory, you are supposed to be able to place a button of the desired size in the foot, then push down on the pedal and it should sew the buttonhole. I have yet to get my machine to do this. I used my mom’s. On hers you sew down as far as you need to go, then push the buttonhole button located by the stitch selection buttons and it sews the rest. You’ll end up with 12 marks that look like this. Grab your seam ripper and place it between the stitchings and rip about halfway up. Then switch to the other end and rip the rest of the way. You can just rip all the way with that first rip, but I like to switch so you can prevent accidentally ripping too much and going through the stitching. Repeat on all 12 buttonholes and it’s all done! Place your curtain rings through those buttonholes and hang up your new shower curtain!
One shower curtain measuring 72″ x 72″.

Tamarynn Bennet
Sew Dang Cute

Life Cycles Quilt

May9

this quilt is for my niece aliyah… who was born less than a week ago!

my mom often refers to big events as “life cycle” moments

& since making quilts for big moments like this is a favorite thing of mine… i knew i wanted to make a new quilt as soon as i found out that i had a niece on the way!

this quilt would be great for births… weddings… anniversaries… or even holidays like mother’s day!

come check out my blog to see the original quilt i made for my nephew that inspired this quilt!

1 Jelly Roll Basics in Milk
1 Make Life Honey Bun
1/4 yd Bias Cut Binding – Make Life Fun – Ocean 5425 23
Scrap or FQ – { I used Earth Texture SKU# 5427-15 }
Scrap or FQ – { I used Grass Shine SKU# 5424-21 }
1 1/8 yard backing
Scrap of fusible web

Note:
HB = Honey Bun
JR = Jelly Roll

1. Open HB. Start with any colored strips that are in the HB twice. If you are using make life you’ll have 5.
Sew them as shown below on the right
HB strip – JR strip – HB strip
These will yield 9 blocks each

2. Take the rest of the colored HB strips and cut them in half.
Sew them as shown below on the left
HB strip – JR strip – HB strip
{ you can cut the JR strips in half… I just did it as shown below to save on cutting time }
These will yield 4 blocks of each color

3. Sub-cut strips into 4.5″ blocks. As noted above the full strips will yield 9 blocks and the half strips will yield 4 blocks.

4. I used all of the strips in the HB that were colored and got about 97 blocks… which is enough for 2 quilts.

5. You’ll need 46 blocks for one quilt. I made more anticipating that people would make mistakes in signing them! I had people start to sign them before the quilt was made. Most people wanted to sign them horizontal, so I had to make it a point to ask some people to sign them vertical. {thanks mom for all your help organizing this part!}

6. The next step is making the center block.
Print this PDF file and trace the letters needed onto fusible web. Iron them onto the grey fabric & cut them out.

7. Cut your background for the name at 12.5″ x 4.5″
If your name is longer or shorter, you can have it take up more than 3 blocks of space or make the letters smaller or larger. Iron the letters in place. I sewed mine down with a machine blanket stitch to finish them.

8. Lay out your blocks.
Sew blocks into rows. Press towards the colored part of the blocks.
Sew rows together.

9. Add Border #1
Border #1 is made from 4 HB strips. Add 2 to sides and then top & bottom. I used the white strips with small stars.

10. Add Border #2

Border #2 is made from 4 JR strips. Add 2 to sides and then top & bottom.

11. Layer…Quilt…and Bind.
I quilted in the ditch to avoid the signatures & messages.

I also cut my binding on the bias to get this effect. Binding instructions can be found here.

Lastly I added a sleeve to the back so that this can hang on the wall.

34″ x 34″ Quilt

happy mother’s day!

all three generations!

just hours after aliyah was born!!

Enjoy!
by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Simply Silly Quilt

May8

Hello, I am Sandy Workman, owner of Pine Needles at Gardner Village and designer of Pine Mountain Designs. I am so excited to share with you my first Moda Bake Shop project! When we saw the Make Life quilt labels at market we fell in love with them and knew they would mix with the charm squares to make a darling quilt. I hope you enjoy making this Simply Silly Quilt!

1 – Make Life charm pack
1 – Make Life quilt label pack
1/3 yard inner border
2/3 yard outer border
1/3 yard binding
1 2/3 yard backing

6 make life buttons

Select and sort:

In the Make Life charm pack there are 6 charm squares that are repeated. Select those prints and set aside.
Use the remaining charm squares and the quilt labels to lay out your quilt center consisting of 7 rows with 6 squares in each row.

Cut:

From each of the 6 duplicate charm pack prints you previously set aside cut a large and a small flower. (I used the sizzix scallop circle cutter. If you do not have access to this you could cut a 2″ and a 3 1/2″ circle using scallop or regular pinking shears).

From inner border print cut four strips 2 1/2″ x width of fabric.
From outer border print cut four strips 5″ x width of fabric.

Sew:

Flower blocks: The flowers are sewn in place using a raw edge technique. Place the large flower in the center of charm square. Sew in place 1/2″ from edge. Place small flower centered on large flower. Again, sew in place 1/2″ from edge.
Quilt Center: Sew charm squares and quilt labels together in rows 1 through 7 and then sew rows together to form quilt center.
Inner Borders: Sew 2 1/2″ inner border strips to sides. Press. Trim away excess. Sew 2 1/2″ inner border strips to top and bototm of quilt. Trim away excess.
Outer Borders: Sew 5″ outer border strips to sides of quilt. Press. Trim away excess. Sew outer border strips to top and bottom of quilt. Press. Trim away excess.
Quilt and bind.
Attach Make Life button in the center of each flower. Enjoy!

1 – 40″ x 44″ quilt

Fabric Fortune Cookies

May4

Hi it’s Megan from Brassy Apple. Give a little “fortune” to your guests at baby showers, receptions, holidays, dinner parties and MORE! They are even great to encourage the little ones as well!

1 Charm Pack
Fusible Fleece
Scissors
White Ribbon
Wire (20-24 gauge)
E6000 Glue
Fabric Marker
Circle Template (4.5″ – 4.75″ wide)
paper “fortune” strips

color coordinating sequin

Step 1: Choose several squares from your charm pack for your fabric fortune cookies. Using fusible fleece, apply it per package directions to several squares in a grid formation. This helps to save time. We did 4-6 squares at a time.

Step 2: Create a circle template – 4.5″ – 4.75″ inches wide (You can easily create one using a small bowl or mug from your cupboard if necessary). Trace the template in the middle of each square and cut out.

OPTIONAL: Add a bit of glitz to the edge of your fortune cookies. Using a strand of sequins, apply it to the edge securing it in place with E6000 glue. Allow to dry.

Step 3: Cut a piece of wire that is just slightly shorter in length than the width of the circle. Cut a piece of ribbon the same length. Glue both in place with E6000 glue and allow to dry flat.

Step 4: Create and print out fortune paper strips. Choose the font, size and number of sayings you like. Place the paper strips in the middle of the fortune cookies.

Step 5: Fold the fabric circle in half and crease the middle to create the cookie shape.

Step 6: Placing a finger inside, “fluff” and shape the cookie to give it a rounded shape. And you are DONE!

Add a bit of the unexpected to your special events….

and the everyday….

42 fabric fortune cookies

Crochet Clutch

Apr6

I’ve always wanted to learn how to crochet but never had anyone to show me the finer details of crocheting. I’ve made an effort from time to time. I could even do a simple stitch around a baby blanket but I could never quite figure out the crochet language in pattern books. Over the years I moved on to other things but kept wanting to come back to crocheting. I recently found that all I needed was someone to show me the way (thanks to my NZ Auntie). Like many of you, I’m a visual learner. It’s much easier to be shown than to read instructions. lol.

So, now that I’m really into crocheting I find that I keep losing my crochet hooks and that I really didn’t have a good place to keep them. They are really easy to misplace, especially with children around.

This Moda Bake Shop project is dedicated to all of you quilter’s and crafter’s who love to crochet.

4 Fat Quarters of your choice. ( I used Moda’s “Make Life” by Sweetwater)
7″ Zipper to match your fabric choice
1/2″ Magnetic Snap by Dritz
Heavy Clear Plastic (I bought mine in the fabric section at Walmart)
1 1/4″ D-Ring by Dritz for purse handle (optional)

Crocheted Flower to match your color scheme.
7/8″ Covered Button Kit (by Dritz) to make a matching covered button for the center of the flower.

Please Note: I’m sorry that I don’t speak crochet language well enough to help you with the flower but there are lots of tutorials available on the internet for help in making crocheted flowers. There are also many wonderful Crochet books available, too. I may decide, at some point to post a video tutorial on my blog of the flower I made, if anyone is interested.

Step One:Download the Pattern

1. Print the pattern and use it to make the curve for the flap on the Crochet Clutch.

Step Two:
Cutting Out the Fabric Pieces

Here’s a picture of the pieces you’ll need to make the Crochet Clutch (except the optional handle which you find at the end).

1. Cut One rectangle measuring 9″ x 18″ out of each of the following items:

One piece of Heavyweight Fusible Interfacing
One piece of Cotton Batting
One piece of Fabric for inside of clutch
One piece of Fabric for outside of clutch

2. Stack all four layers (two fabrics, 1 batting, 1 fusible interfacing) and then place the curved pattern piece on the top of the stack, making sure to line up the sides and butt the pattern up to the top edge of your stack. Note: if your fabric has writing or a directional print please make sure that it is facing up on the outside and inside of bag.

3. Trace the curve for the top flap with a pencil. Cut along the pencil line.

4. Draw a gentle curve for the bottom two corners of the crochet clutch. Cut along the pencil line.

Step Three:
Making the Zippered Pocket

Cut 4 pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 9″ (zipper sides)
Cut 2 pieces measuring 2″ x 4″ (zipper ends)

1. Take the two pieces that measure 2″ x 4″ and fold in half. Finger press.

2. Open the fabric and place the pressed line in the fabric close to the zipper end. Sew along the pressed line. Repeat for the opposite end of zipper. Center the zipper within 9″ on the cutting mat and trim off the excess.

3. Now take two of the four pieces that measure 1 1/2″ x 9″ and with right sides together place a strip of fabric on the top and bottom of one side of the zipper. Use your zipper foot to sew a seam close to the zipper opening. Press the seams open.

4. Repeat for the opposite side of zipper. (See photo below)

5. With the zipper pull facing to your right fold the length of the top fabric piece in toward the zipper about 3/8″ then press. Repeat for the bottom fabric piece.

6. Slip the 9″ (length) x 7″ (width) piece of mid to heavy weight plastic in between the two pressed fabric pieces. Now sew a seam close to the edge of fabric thus securing the plastic in place.

Step Four:
Making the Crochet Hook Pocket (*CHP)

Cut One piece of fabric measuring 9″ x 8 3/4″ then fold in half so the width remains 9″ and the height will be be 4 3/8″
Cut one biased piece of striped fabric measuring 2 1/2″ x 9″ fold in half lengthwise and the fold the ends in once again. Press.

1. Insert the folded edge of the *CHP inside the bias pocket binding. Sew close to the edge of the binding to secure the pocket in place.

2. Now measure 4″ and fold the raw edges inward. Press. This is where the other side of plastic will be sewn and secured into place.

Step Five:
Making the Pin & Needle Keeper

Cut one piece of matching wool or felt measuring 3 1/2″ x 7″

1. Pin pattern on wool/felt then cut out.

2. Take the 9″ x 18″ inside piece of fabric and the 9″x 18″ piece of batting and place the batting on the wrong side of the fabric.

3. Measure down 4″ from the top. Center and line up the bottom edge of wool/felt right at or barely above what will become the fold line on the flap of the clutch.

4. Sew the wool/felt in place.

5. Use matching Ric Rac or other trim and then sew it around the outside edge of wool/felt piece.

Step Six:
Putting the Pieces Together

The left fabric piece (as seen below) is the front of the crochet clutch with the fusible interfacing ironed to the wrong side of fabric and the right fabric piece is the inside of the Crochet Clutch with the batting on the wrong side of fabric.

1. On the inside piece of fabric in addition to the wool/felt pin keeper you will add the *CHP and the zippered pocket.

2. First measure down from the top 7″ and place your *CHP.

3. Next, place the zippered pocket on top of the inside fabric with the zipper at the bottom of the clutch with the plastic facing up toward the *CHP. There should be plenty of plastic to insert in the opening at the pressed bottom of the *CHP. Trim off any plastic excess to within 1/2″ of where you will sew the seam to secure the plastic.

4. Now sew the *CHP seam to secure the pocket on the fabric and the batting.

Step Seven:
Attaching the Magnetic Clasp

1. You will want to attach the top magnetic clasps before you sew the front and back together.

2. The top clasp is attached to the top of the inside of Crochet Clutch.

(Back view of magnetic clasp)

(Front view of magnetic clasp)

3. Now place the front and back with wrong sides together. Pin the layers around the top half.

4. The bottom clasp is attached to the outside fabric at the bottom of the Crochet Clutch.

5. Make sure to lift up the bottom of the inside fabric to expose the batting, the fusible interfacing and fabric for the outside of crochet clutch.

6. Fold your bag to check for placement of magnetic clip. Mark the spot with a pencil.

7. Attach magnetic clip. Use a straight edge to cut small holes to insert the prongs.

(Inside view of the front of crochet clutch)

(Close up: Back View of Magnetic Clasp)

Step Eight:
Making the Optional Handle

Cut one strip of fabric 22″ x 5″
Cut one strip of cotton batting 22″ x 5″

1. Fold fabric in half lengthwise. Press.

2. Fold raw edges into the center seam. Press

3. Open folds and insert the cotton batting. Refold.

4. Sew a seam close to the outside edge on both sides of the strap.

5. Sew a second seam a 1/4″ inside of each seam that you’ve just sewn.

6. Cut a 17″ length for the handle.

7. Cut a 1 1/2″ length to attach the D-Ring to the Clutch.

8. Fold the 1 1/2″ length in half making sure the D-Ring is inside the fold. Attach by sewing to the back of the outside of clutch. See placement below. Make sure to do this before finishing off the binding.

Step Nine:
Binding and Finishing

Cut 60″ of bias binding for the perimeter of the Crochet Clutch

1. After attaching the clasp, fold the fabric back in place and finish pinning around the perimeter of the crochet clutch.

2. Sew around the perimeter using a longer stitch length to secure everything in place.

3. Attach your bias binding on the inside of the crochet clutch. Make sure to include the optional handle at this point (see instructions for the handle in part nine).

4. Press the binding outward making sure not to iron the plastic.

5. Sew the binding by hand to finish it off.

Step Ten:
Grab your Crochet Clutch you’re ready to Crochet.

One Crochet Clutch with Optional Handle

Ziggy

Mar8

Honey Bun Make Life By Sweetwater sku #5420 HB

Jelly Roll Make Life sku #5420 JR

1 yard Light Multi background sku #5421 21

4 yards Ivory Floral Backing sku#5420-16

2 yards Grass Dots Border and Binding sku# 5423-12

You will need atleast:

16 jelly roll strips (2.5 inch strips) -JR

16 honeybun strips (1.5 inch strips) -HB

Cut (16) 1.5 inch strips of background fabric -B

create groups of 1JR strip, 1 HB strip and one B strip as shown.

I divided mine by color, however, it could be done scrappy.

Here is the lay-out

HB strip, B strip and then JR strip.

Sew the HB strip to the 1.5 inch B strip

press open.

Next add the Jelly roll strip, sew and press.

Repeat this 15 more times.

Take the pieced strips and subcut them to 4.5 inch segments.

Arrange the 4.5 inch squares into a nine patch.

Carefully place the squares so that you are consistent as to which strip is “up” or turned to the right, always a HB strip up? or JR?

sew your blocks together, being mindful of your strip placement.

the result is 16 ziggy blocks.

sew them together in a 4 block X 4 block arrangement.

the top center should measure 49.5″ X 49.5″

Cut (2) green border strips 8.5 inches X 49.5 inches (or your top measurement) and add borders to top and bottom of quilt only.

Quilt as desired….overall meader, a flower or even a double bubble design.

Bind and fini!

Lap size quilt 49″ X 65″

I hope this has inspired you to create today!

If you’d like to see more inspirational projects and daily life of a quilter, stop by my website spunsugarquilts.com

Tumbling Spools Friendship Quilt

Feb26

Tumbling Spools Friendship Quilt
Finished Size: 38″ x 38″

Hi, I’m Cindy from Hyacinth Quilt Designs. When I saw Sweetwater’s line “Make Life…” I knew it would be the perfect fabric for a spool and friendship quilt. The border is made of signature blocks, giving you an area for your quilting friends to sign their names.

1 Charm Pack “Make Life…” 5420 PP
1 yard Moda Bella Solid Bleached White 9900 97
1/2 Yard Moda Bella Solid Brown 9900 125
1/4 yard Moda Bella Solid Green 9900 73
1/8 yard Moda Bella Solid Blue 9900 137
1/8 yard Moda Bella Solid Gold 9900 81
1/8 yard Moda Bella Solid Red 9900 140
1 yard Print for Border and Binding 5422-12
1 1/4 yards for Backing
42″ x 42″ piece of batting

Cutting
1. Choose 23 Charm Squares (I eliminated the lighter colors). Cut each one in half in both directions to get 4 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. You will need 89 – so set 3 aside.

2. From the white, cut:

2 strips 2 1/2″ – cut into 50 rectangles 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
4 strips 1 1/2″ – cut into 100 squares 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″
3 strips 3 1/2″ – cut into 32 squares 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″
4 strips 1 1/2″ – cut into 2 border 1 1/2″ x 20 1/2″ and 2 borders 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″

3. From EACH of the green, gold, red, blue and brown solids cut:

2 strips 1 1/2″ – cut into 10 rectangles 1 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (50 total)

4. From the remaining brown solid, cut 8 strips 1 1/2″, then cut these into:

2 borders 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″
2 borders 1 1/2″ x 24 1/2″
2 borders 1 1/2″ x 30 1/2″
2 borders 1 1/2″ x 32 1/2″

5. From the remaining green solid, cut:

4 squares 3 1/2 ” x 3 1/2″

6. From the border print, cut:

4 strips 3 1/2″, cut into 2 borders 3 1/2″ x 32 1/2″ and 2 borders 3 1/2″ x 38 1/2″
4 strips 2 1/2″ for binding

Piecing the Quilt

7. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 4 white 1 1/2″ squares.

8. Place one square on each end of 2 matching 1 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ solid rectangles. Make sure your lines are going in the right direction! Sew on the drawn lines.

9. Press the seam allowances toward the white squares and trim the bottom 2 layers.

10. Sew a 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ white rectangle to opposite sides of a print 2 1/2″ square. Press the seam allowances toward the print square.

11. Sew the units from steps 9 and 10 together to complete the block. Press the seam allowances toward the center square. Repeat and make 25 Spool blocks

12. Sew the Spool blocks together in 5 rows of 5 blocks each, turning every other block as pictured. Press the seam allowances in each row in alternate directions. Sew the rows together to complete the center.

13. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 20 1/2″ white borders to opposite sides of the quilt; press. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″ to the remaining two sides; press. Repeat with the 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″ brown borders and the 1 1/2″ x 24 1/2″ brown borders.

14. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 2 print 2 1/2″ squares.

15. Place a marked square on opposite corners of a 3 1/2″ white square. Be sure your lines are going in the right direction! Sew on the line.

16. Press one seam allowance toward the print and one seam allowance toward the white. Trim the bottom 2 layers. Repeat to make 32 Signature blocks.

17. Sew 8 Signature blocks in a row – alternating the direction as shown and turning your blocks so that adjoining seams are going in the opposite direction; press. Make 4 rows.

18. Sew a green 3 1/2″ square to opposite ends of two of the rows from step 17.

19. Sew the two rows without the green squares to opposite sides of the quilt; press. Add the Signature block rows with the green squares to the remining two sides; press.

20. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 30 1/2″ brown borders to opposite sides of the quilt; press. Repeat with the 1 1/2″ x 32 1/2″ brown border strips; press.

21. In the same manner as step 20 add the 3 1/2″ x 32 1/2″ print borders and the 3 1/2″ x 38 1/2″ print borders to the quilt.

23. Quilt, bind and enjoy!

One Tumbling Blocks Friendship quilt to grace your sewing studio!

Baby Life Quilt

Feb15

hey there, Vanessa from V and Co. here.
i’ve had this quilt bouncing around in my head for quite some time. so when i saw the “make life” line by sweetwater, i instantly knew that this quilt needed to be made out of this line.
it seems like everywhere i turn someone is announcing that they are pregnant or that they just found out what they are having. with just one layer cake i was able to make two completely different color scheme quilts, and i still have some left that i’m working with (another tutorial in the works with the leftovers!)

shall we get started?

1 make life layer cake.
for each quilt:
1 1/4 yards of background fabric (shown are:5424 20 Apple and 5424 24 Earth )
1 1/2 yards fabric for back (used but now shown: 5421 25 Ocean, and 5421 22 Apple
1/2 yard of fabric for binding (5424 19 Ocean and 5424 11 Apple)
pattern for words (get pdf here)
heat and bond

cut your background fabric to measure 38 by 36 inches.
you will need to print out the letters pdf file. and gather up a few squares you would like to use as your letters. i chose to use the solid color squares but you can use whichever you would like.
next i traced onto my heat and bond the letters that i needed.

cut out your letters but leaving a little paper around each letter. (it makes for cutting the letter out easier i think)
iron onto the wrong side of your fabric. (make sure you utilize your fabric and try to use as little fabric as possible by starting in the corner.)

cut out your letters.
(with paper still on the back) see where you would like to place your words. make sure they are straight by using a ruler.
i measured 3 1/2 inches from the bottom and left side of my fabric as the place where i wanted my last word to be.
i then placed my words up from there.
take off the paper from the back and when you have the placement of where you want the letters, iron them down onto your fabric.
**to secure your letters either zig zag or blanket stitch around your letters. when i do this i like to use clear thread.
(i didn’t on these quilts knowing that these were just going to be “for show” quilts)
i then took the rest of my squares. i picked out the ones i wanted to be in my border.
cut out strips with widths of 1 1/2 inches. i did make them different lengths because i wanted a scrappy look.

i then sewed my strips together so they measured 1 1/2 by 38 inches.

and then sewed them to the left and right of my main panel.
the top and bottom scrappy border should measure 1 1/2 by 38

next you are going to cut out two strips of your remaining background fabric to 2 by 40 inches.
this will be your left and right outer border.
your top and bottom border will measure 2 by 41 inches

sew them on to the top and bottom.
your finished quilt top will measure 40 by 41 inches.
when you are ready to bind your quilt, i have a binding tutorial on my blog: check it out here

two quilts with the capability of making a few more…or wait and see what i do with the rest of it. tutorial coming soon to my blog.
now your baby, or your friend’s baby can have a totally cute mod baby quilt and the color combos are endless with this line!

thanks! and can’t wait to show you what i do with the rest of scraps!
tutorial and pictures brought to you by V and Co.

Play School Quilt

Jan29

This quilt is inspired by my nephew Elijah. He just started pre-school but we call it “Play School” because “Caillou” goes to play school… and anything Caillou does is what my nephew wants to be doing! You don’t want to send your kid to pre-school with their favorite quilt… or one that took forever to make… so whip up a Play School quilt in just a few hours!

make life layer cake

make life jelly roll

1 3/8 yards of backing {i used Make Life Silly – Earth 5421 26}

1/2 yard of bias cut binding {i used Make Life Fun Ocean 5425 23}

batting – at least 40″ x 48″

mettler top stitching thread in blue, green & white

2 1/2 yards blue giant ric rac

2 1/2 yards white giant ric rac

batting scraps of warm & white for appliqué

1. Select 12 layer cake squares for blocks, 8 jelly roll strips for stripes, & 4 layer cake squares for the appliqué.

2. Sew the jelly roll strips together in pairs & press towards the darker fabric. Trim the strips to 38.5″ wide. I did this by folding the strip set in half and using the 19.25″ mark on my ruler.

3. Sew the layer cake blocks into rows & press towards the darker fabric.

4. Sew the rows together & press the seams towards the jelly roll stripes.

5. Layer with batting & backing and quilt as desired. I used mettler top stitching thread 1/4″ away from the seams on the jelly roll portion & squares spiraling in on the layer cake squares. {See below picture}

6. Print appliqué letters from PDF file. If some of the letters get cut off in the margin just draw that portion… I didn’t want the letters to be any smaller!

7. Layer 2 layers of warm & white with a layer cake square on top. Repeat for all 4 letters. Roughly cut out the letters & pin through all 4 layers.

8. Use utility scissors to cut through all 4 layers. Not your good sewing ones!

9. Remove paper & re-pin to hold all the layers together.

10. Pin each letter one at a time in place and sew onto quilt 3/8″ in from the raw edge with top stitching thread.

before

after

11. Cut 2 pieces of ric rac from each color the width of your quilt. {aprx 38.5″} Stitch in place using top stitch thread in the middle of the jelly roll strip sections. It helps to use a walking foot.