The Dollhouse Pouch

This sweet little pouch is a fun way to store puzzles, books, and any other of your favorite knick-knacks!

(Vintage Modern by Bonnie & Camille)

  • 1/2 yard Houndstooth in Pebble Gray
  • One fat quarter Floral Dots in Aqua
  • One fat quarter Floral Dots in Cream
  • One fat quarter Floral Dots in Candy Apple
  • One fat quarter Snickerdoodle in Melon 
  • One 20 x 36″ scrap of batting 
  •  One pkg (3 sets) 7/8″ Velcro squares (non-stick)

  • Doorknob embellishment (could be a button, fabric circle, fabric yo-yo, etc.) 


  • From the Houndstooth in Pebble Gray, cut two 11.5 x 14″ linings, two 4 x 11.5″ blocks, four 4″ blocks, and two 2 x 4″ blocks. 
  • From Floral Dots in Aqua, cut one 1.5 x 11.5″ strip, five 2.5 x 3.5″ blocks, eight 1 x 5″ strips, and one 10.5 x 11.5″ block.
  • From the Floral Dots in Cream, cut five 2.5 x 3″ blocks. 
  • From the Floral Dots in Candy Apple, cut ten 1 x 3″ strips. 
  • From the Snickerdoodle in Melon, cut one 4 x 11.5″ block, one 3.5 x 5″ block, and one 2 x 4.5″ block.

Assembly–Assume 1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise stated.

1.  To create each window, sew a 1 x 3″ strip (Floral Dots in Candy Apple) on the left/right sides of a 2.5 x 3″ block (Floral Dots in Cream). Press open the seams.


Sew a 2.5 x 3.5″ block (Floral Dots in Aqua) below each window; press open the seams. Make five total.


2.  Referring to arrangement below, lay out the completed window units, the 3.5 x 5″ block for a door (should be Snickerdoodle in Melon), and the eight 1 x 5″ strips (Floral Dots in Aqua) as sashing. Stitch the “top floor” row together; press open the seams. Repeat to stitch the “bottom floor” together, pressing open the seams afterwards.  Sew the two rows together, lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand.


3.  To create each roof unit, you will need two 4″ blocks (Houndstooth in Pebble Gray) and one 4 x 11.5″ block (Snickerdoodle in Melon). Draw a diagonal line on the back of each 4″ block; pin right sides together with the 4 x 11.5″ block, as indicated below. Stitch along the drawn line; discard excess 1/4″ outside of the drawn line and press open the seams. Make two total (set one aside for step #5).


4.  To finish the house facade, sew a roof onto the house with the 1.5 x 11.5″ strip (Floral Dots in Aqua) between them, as indicated below.


For the house backside, simply sew the 4 x 11.5″ block (Houndstooth in Pebble Gray) to the 10.5 x 11.5″ block (Floral Dots in Aqua).


5.  For the flap exterior, first you will need to sew together the two 2 x 4″ strips (Houndstooth in Pebble Gray) with the 2 x 4-1/2″ block (Snickerdoodle in Melon) in the order indicated below.  Attach the finished strip to the top of the second roof from step #3. 


6.  Baste the house facade, house backside, and flap exterior to the batting piece using a sticky basting spray (or fusible batting) and insert safety pins to prevent the layers from shifting during quilting.


7.  Quilt as desired (mine was very minimalistic). Trim away the excess batting.


8.  Time to add a doorknob embellishment.  If it weren’t a choking hazard, I would have added a decorative button. Instead, I made a small fabric yo-yo from the Floral Dots in Candy Apple and stitched it on by hand. 


9.  To add a velcro closure, you will need the [quilted] house backside and the 4 x 11.5″ flap lining (Houndstooth in Pebble Gray), a measuring tape, the Velcro squares, and the Super Stik glue stick. (The reason I discourage Sticky Velcro is because it will ruin your sewing machine needle when you stitch it in place.)


Line up the measuring tape along the seam of the house backside.  Apply glue stick to the back of the scratchy-half of the Velcro squares. Place the squares at the 3-1/4″, 5-1/4″, and 7-1/4″ points above the seam.


Apply glue to the back of the remaining Velcro pieces.  To the flap lining: lay the measuring tape 2″ down from the top and place the squares at the 3-1/4″, 5-1/4″, and 7-1/4″ marks.


Stitch the velcro pieces in place using a zigzag stitch around the perimeter.


10.  To finish the flap, bring the flap exterior and lining right sides together, the Velcro-end of the lining should be together with the widest part of the roof.  Pin in place.


Stitch along the perimeter, leaving the non-Velcro side of the lining unstitched.


Trim at the corners and turn right-side out.


Press the flap with an iron. Lay the flap (Velcro-side up) onto the house facade, aligning raw edges and pin in place.  The flap should be centered, about 1/2″ in from the sides.


Lay the house backside on top (right sides together) and sew along the sides using 1/2″ seam allowance. Be careful not to get the flap sides caught in the seam.


Press open the seams and turn right-side out.


Stitch the 11.5 x 14 lining pieces right sides together using 5/8″ seam allowance and press open the seams.


Slip the house into the lining, right sides together, making sure the side seams line up, and pin in place.


Stitch along the top using 1/2″ seam allowance.


Remove the pins and turn right-side out.


Tuck the lining to the inside and iron the pouch


Top-stitch along the top (flap out) using 1/4″ seam allowance.


Turn the whole thing inside-out again and pin the bottom closed. Sew along the bottom using 1/2″ seam allowance.


Remove pins and turn right-side out again. Voila!

Vanessa Goertzen

Vintage Modern Bow Tie Quilt

 Hi! it is Ann from A Girl in Paradise, and I am so happy to be sharing my first project here at Moda Bake Shop.  This tutorial is for a traditional bow tie quilt that I have re-designed to use layer cake pre-cuts with set in seams. I have come up with an easy way to cut the blocks without using templates, generating very little waste by using the pre-cut layer cakes.

Quilt Top
1 Moda Vintage Modern layer cake
2.5 yards of off-white fabric for the background and borders

3.5 yards of your choice of a coordinating printed fabric

0.5 yard of another coordinating fabric

Cut each layer cake (or 10″ square) into three 3.25″ strips.  Then with each strip, cut two 3.25″ squares and one 2.5″ square.

Cut one corner off of all the 3.25″ squares but not the 2.5″ square as instructed below.  This will allow you to easily set in your seams for each block. 

Place your 3.25″ square, point to point, or on the 45 degree line on your cutting mat.  Line up your ruler and make a cut 1.25″ in from the edge of the corner point as shown in the picture above.

Once you have your layer cake cut you will need to cut the off-white background fabric.  Cut twenty 3.25″ strips from your background fabric.  Then, cut all of those strips into 3.25″ squares.  In total, you will need to cut two-hundred forty [240] 3.25″ squares.  Finally, cut the 1.25″ point off each square as you did before.

For each bow tie block you will need:

  • Two 3.25″ squares of the off-white background fabric
  • Two 3.25″ squares of the printed layer cake fabric
  • One 2.5″ square of the printed layer cake fabric

Note: Each 10″ square of the layer cake will make three 5.75″ unfinished blocks once you add the off-white background fabric.  One layer cake plus the background fabric will give you 126 total blocks.  You will need 120 blocks for this quilt.

Now, let’s put our block together as pictured in the steps above.
Steps 1 & 2 – sew your two printed 3.25″ squares to your printed 2.5″ square along the edge where you previously cut off your point.  Make sure you start and end your stitches 0.25″ on each side, as pictured.  Do not sew edge to edge.
Step 3 – now add your off-white background fabric to the printed bow tie with the right sides together.  Place a pin where one of the two existing seams meet, roughly 0.25″ in from the edge.
Step 4 – start your first stitch just beyond that pin to the outer edge.
Step 5 – in order to sew the inside seam, you will again need to place your pin where the second seam meets, roughly 0.25″ in from the edge.
Step 6 – start your first stitch just beyond that pin, sewing until you reach the first set of stitches.
Step 7 – line up your printed and off-white background fabric corner to corner, and sew from the outer edge until you reach the inside seam.
Step 8 – repeat by adding the second off-white background fabric piece to the other side of the bow tie.
Step 9 – then press the block.
Now that we have our blocks done, let’s start laying out our quilt.  As I am sure you already know, there are countless layout options when working with bow tie blocks.  For this quilt, I decided to go with a bow tie circle block.  
First, I took four random bow tie blocks and laid them out to create a bow tie circle.  I sewed the top two blocks together, and then the bottom two blocks together as pictured above.  I pressed the seams open, then sewed the top blocks to the bottom blocks creating the bow tie circle block.  Finally, I pressed each bow tie circle block and trimmed them square.  I find that trimming makes all of the blocks consistent and easy for you to line up when putting your quilt top together.
In a random order lay out and sew together five bow tie circle blocks across and six bow tie circle blocks down.  You will need a total of 30 bow tie circle blocks for this quilt. 
After I finished putting the all of the bow tie circle blocks together, then I pressed them.  Next, I added my borders by cutting six 3.25″ strips from the remaining off-white fabric.  Finally, I pressed my completed quilt top. 
Now that your quilt top is ready, sandwich it with your batting and backing fabric.  Machine or hand quilt as desired.  Add your binding to finish your bow tie quilt.

One throw quilt measuring approximately 68″ by 58″.  

Don’t forget to stop by and say Hi!  You can visit me at A Girl in Paradise for some more quilt inspiration and tutorials.

Subscribe to Updates – Like on Facebook – Follow on Twitter 

Ann McKinney


Vintage Modern Bag

 Hi guys! I am super excited to share with you my bag, a little nervous also.  I am Stacey, and I blog over at Stacey’s Place.  This is my 3rd bake shop recipe.  This bag is is small, but super cute, and really sturdy!  I hope you enjoy it!

1 layer cake Vintage Modern by Bonnie and Camille
1 yard Pebble Polka dot fabric

Magnetic Clasp

For exterior bag pieces:
20- 2 ½” x 2 ½” print
20- 1 ½” x 4 ½” print
2- 1 ½” x 10 ½” gray polka dot
For lining pieces:
2- 9 1/8” x 9 ¾” (exterior)
2- 7 1/8” x 9 ¾” (interior)
For straps:
9- 2 ½” x 2 ½” print
8- 1 ½” x 4 ½” print
1- 2 ½” x 33 ½” gray polka dot
Interfacing (use whatever type you want, lightweight up to heavyweight.  I used a mediumweight thin interfacing.)
1. Sew 5 of your 2 ½” x 2 ½” squares together as shown above. Repeat 3 more times so you have 4 total.
2. Sew two of your strips from step 1 together as shown, repeat with the remaining two pieces.
3. Sew 10 of your 1 ½” x 4 ½” strips together as shown. Repeat once more with the remaining 10 pieces.
4. Take one of your pieces from step 2, one of your 1 ½” x 10 ½” gray polka dot, and one of your pieces from step 3 and attach them together with your piece from step 2 on top, your 1 ½” x 10 ½” gray polka dot piece in the middle, and your piece from step 3 on the bottom. This is one completed panel for the outside of your bag. Repeat once more.
5.  Cut out a piece of interfacing and depending if you have fusible or sew in, attach to the wrong side of your exterior bag piece.
6.  Pin your two exterior pieces together right sides together and sew a ¼” seam down from the top right all the way around the bottom, and up the left side. Make sure you leave the top open.
7. Take your corner and press the lower corner down, so that the side seam is centered on top of the bottom seam. I used my ruler to line up an inch and a half, draw a line across. This is your stitching line.
8. Sew together one each of the lining pieces along the 9 ¾” side. Press open. Repeat with the remaining two lining pieces.
9.  Pin your cording on the right side of the 7 1/8” side, lining up the raw edge of the cording with the fabric piece. Sew as close as you can to the cording without actually sewing the cord piece itself. Then I flip my piece over and pin my other lining piece from step 6, making sure to pin your 7 1/8” side right side facing with your other 7 1/8” piece from earlier in this step. Your cording is going to be sandwiched in between both lining pieces. This is where flipping your piece comes in handy. You can use your stitched seam from earlier in this step as your guide to sew these two pieces together.
Turn these pieces right side out, and press.
10. Sew a ¼” seam across, this just makes it look pretty while keeping both sides attached together.
11.  Now you are going to lay this flat as it looks in a bag, with right sides facing together, and the wrong side is on the outside. This bag has two interior sides, and the piece you just sewed with the cording is your center divider. Now you need to pin one side of the exterior lining piece to the interior lining piece right sides together. Sew your ¼” seam up to where the two pieces end at the cording piece. Then repeat this with your other 3 sides. This is sewing together the sides of your bag interior. When all sides are sewed, then pin together the top side right sides together the rest of the way up. Repeat this for the other side. Now you have your lining of your bag assembled.
12.  Now you need to add your magnetic clasp where you want it, per manufacturer’s instructions.

13.  Pin a piece of cording to your exterior bag piece on the right side. Sew. Fold over as close to the cording as you can.
14.  Insert your lining into the exterior bag piece, wrong sides facing. You are going to need to fold over the lining piece at the top for the seam towards the wrong side of the lining piece. Start pinning at your side seam (I pinned both sides at the seams, then worked my way around), so they line up, and make sure the lining gets pinned to the outer bag piece close to the cording. I made my bag have a crease on the front and back sides right around where the magnetic clasps are.
15.  Sew all the way around the bag close to cording.
The strap:
Take your 9- 2 ½” squares and sew them together in a strip. Then take your 1 ½” x 4 ½” rectangles and sew them two together along the 4 ½” side. You will have 4 of these total. Sew two sets together along the 2 ½” side. Repeat. Add one to each side of your 2 ½” squares strip. This makes your strap.
Take your 2 interfacing pieces (2” x 33”) and fuse it to the wrong side of both strap pieces, your one you just made, and your gray polka dot strap piece.
Fold and Iron your ¼” seam to the wrong side. This just helps for when you pin these two pieces together. Pin your two strap pieces wrong sides together. Sew close to the edge.
Pin your strap to the outside of your bag, I lined up up on the 2” square on the side seam, and centered it. Make sure you fold over your raw edge of the strap so when you sew your strap to the bag it will be hidden inside your seam. Sew. Repeat for the other side.
You are finished, now enjoy your beautiful bag!

1 beautiful Vintage Modern Bag!

Stacey Carey
{Stacey’s Place}

Vintage Turning Modern Quilt

Hello All! It’s Crystal Hendrix from Hendrixville back with another tutorial! I don’t know about all of you, but I get very excited about new lines from Bonnie and Camille; so I combined two great love of mine, fabric from Bonnie and Camille and pizza!

I am please to announce that you can get this project in a quilt kit from an awesome quilt shop Wish Upon A Quilt. Wish Upon a Quilt is online and is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and has amazing deals and merchandise! Stop on over to check it out as well as pick up this awesome quilt kit!

1~ Vintage Modern Layer Cake by Bonnie and Camille
1~ Bella White Layer Cake
1 3/4 yard 55049 11 (Teal Coloring – Middle Sashing) 
3/8 yard 55049 25 (Red – Corner Sashing)
1 1/2 yard 55049 14 (Pink/Melon – Border)
3/4 yard 5504017F (White/Cream – Binding)
 8 1/2 yard 55048 11 (Teal w/Flowers – Backing)

You may be thinking, pizza? How does this relate to pizza? But you will see! A rotary knife is sorta like a pizza cutter, isn’t it?

We will be using every piece of our layer cakes. From the Bella White Layer Cake they will be used as our background piece that we will then applique our “pizza” to.

1. You will need to create a 10″circle template (circumference). I know that there are some special rulers out there that can do this, or you can use a compass, or you can do what I did….go through all of your bowls in your kitchen finding the perfect size!

Regardless of how you get your template, make one. Then use it to trace a circle onto each of your Vintage Modern Layer Cake pieces.

*Turn the fabric over and trace on the back.

To speed this process along, you can trace and cut out one circle and then use that as a template for a small pile of fabric (about 5 or 6 pieces) and pin it well to the stack, and then trace and cut out the stack of layer cake pieces. *Do whatever you feel comfortable with!

2. Once you have all 42 circles cut out, separate them into 7 piles of 6 layer cake pieces. You will use each pile one at a time to create your pizza.

Take your pile and cut all the pieces in half. Measure it up the best you can and try to get it even.

3. Separate the different pieces so that they are matched up with a different piece of fabric and sew a 1/4″ seam on the straight edge. Do this for all of your different 6 circles.

4. Once you again have 7 circles (although they will seem a little like ovals now) press the seam open. *If you don’t press your seams open, by the time you finish you pizza piece the middle seam will bulge..

5. Once you have pressed your seam open, line up your circle (oval) and cut it in half again. *Make sure that you cut perpendicular to your seam line. *By this time I started to use pins to match up my seams and hold the ends together.

6. It’s looking a little more like a pizza now isn’t it? Now press open your seams again and then line up your circle and cut again down the middle. You will be cutting down the middle of two different pieces, one on top and one on the bottom. Just like you would be cutting your pizza. Once you have cut all your pieces, switch up the pieces and pin and sew the pieces together again.

7. Press your circle  (now they look like ovals again) seams open again and then line up your circle and cut down the middle again, perpendicular to the latest seam line. *This is your last pizza slice cut!

8. Switch up the pieces again, pin, sew and then press open your seams once again.

*While you sew this last seam, I did a double stitch across all of the seams to make it extra secure.

9. Once you have finished making your 42 different pizza slice blocks, line one on each piece of your white layer cake. When laying mine on, I just eye balled it on. Pin it on and then sew around the edges. You can choose to leave a 1/4″ seam allowance around the edges like I show above your you could do a zig-zag around the edges. Your choice.

Do this for all 42 pizza slice blocks and then your ready to start assembling your quilt!

10. Now with your border and sashing fabric cut the following:

Border (Pink)
8 ~ 6″ x WOF (width of fabric)
Sashing (Teal)
97 ~ 2.5″ x 10″
Sashing (Red)
56 ~ 2.5″ x 2.5″

11. Begin to assemble your quilt as shown above. You will have a total of 7 stripes that have your pizza slice blocks and 8 strips of your sashing pieces. Once you have them, then you can add a sashing strip to your pizza slice strip and so forth. *Make sure to pin your seams so that you can assure that your seams line up.

12. Continue sewing your strips together until your quilt looks like above. Now you’re ready to add the borders.

13. With your border pieces, sew together pieces together until you have the following measurements:
2~ 6″ x 71.5″ and 2~ 6″ x 94″
Once you have these 4 pieces sew them to your quilt top. Sew together the shorter pieces first (top and bottom) then the longer pieces (side pieces).

Once you have your borders on, press and then baste and quilt as your heart desires! I did a simple stippling stitch.

Makes a beautiful quilt approximately 80″ x 92″ quilt. Perfect to use as a nice picnic quilt or to spread on a queen size bed!

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you have any questions please feel free to send me an email asking any question you have! I would love to see your creations using this tutorial or any of my other tutorials here on the Moda Bake Shop!


Crystal Hendrix

Vintage Modern Pinwheels Quilt

Hello! It’s Karin Vail from Cascade quilts, and I am so glad to be back with another Moda Bake Shop project!  This was such a fun and easy quilt to make, that I’m going to be making another one right away with a mixture of another 2 Moda collections I’ve been hoarding saving (WeePlay with Pezzy Prints!)   This one I made with Bonnie and Camille’s LOVELY line called ”Vintage Modern”.  I just love Bonnie and Camille’s fabric collections, and this one is exceptionally beautiful!  I am calling this one ”Vintage Modern Pinwheels” 🙂  Although the ‘pinwheels’ do kind of look more star-like than pinwheel-like.

2 ‘Vintage Modern’ jelly rolls by Bonnie and Camille
1 bella solids jelly roll ‘Porcelain’ (you will only use half of this jelly roll for the pinwheels AND binding, so save the other half for another quilt!)
4.5 yards (backing, I used #55046-15 in ‘candy apple’ color)

Unroll your jelly roll one at a time and sew strips together into sets of 4 using a 1/4” seam allowance (you will get 10 sets of 4 from each jelly roll).  Try to vary the colors/pattern the best you can within each strip set.

When you sew them together, try to keep one end lined up so you can get all 5 blocks from the strip set.  After your strip sets are sewn together, trim off the selvage edge from one side, then subcut your strip set into 8.5” blocks.  If your strip set is a touch wider than 8.5”, no need to trim that yet, we will work on that later.

You will get five 8.5” cuts from each strip set – and you will have VERY little waste at the end of the strip set, so cut carefully!

Take each block, one by one, and line the upper/left corner on your cutting mat lines.  You will be cutting a triangle off the left side – the measurements are 1” down from the upper/left corner and 2” to the right on the bottom/left corner.  There will be 50 blocks from each jelly roll (100 total from 2 jelly rolls).  Cut each block the SAME as you did the first.

The small triangle cut-off is waste.  Now we can prepare the solid jelly roll strips for the pinwheel.  Each solid jelly roll strip will be enough for 8 blocks, so you will use 12 1/2 strips for the pinwheels.  Cut just a little of the selvage off – don’t worry about the little holes, they will end up either trimmed off later or in the seam.  Cut the strips into quarters.  This will give you four 11” pieces from each strip.  You will need 50 of these 11” pieces.

Now, take one of your solid strips and line it up on your strip blocks.  You will be sewing from the edge where you cut 2” from the corner.  Line the end of the strip up so it overhangs by about 1/4 – 1/2” on the very corner. 

Sew your 1/4” seam.

Press open.

Now, trim your square to exactly 8.5” square.  Trim top and bottom now if you need to.  I used a scant 1/4” seam, so I had a little to trim off.

Don’t throw away the solid wonky triangle to the right!  You will use it in another block!  Just line up the pinked edge with your strip blocks cut edge the same as you did before:

 Sew your 1/4” seam:

and press open:

Now, you can do a final trim to 8.5” square on these too:

 See how little waste there is! Yay!

So, now you have 2 blocks done.  Just repeat until you have all 100 blocks done.  This sounds like a lot, but it goes pretty quickly!  The points of the pinwheels will be JUST shy of the corner of the block.  This way, we will not have to worry about bulky seams and it will be easy to get nice sharp points on our pinwheels (no chopped off points!)

Now sew your blocks into 25 pinwheels using 4 blocks for each pinwheel:

Then, sew your 25 pinwheel blocks into 5 rows of 5 blocks to complete your 80×80 quilt top!

Layer quilt top/batting/backing, baste, and quilt as desired!  Now, you can use 7 1/2 of your leftover solid jelly roll strips for your binding too!  That should leave you with 20 solid strips from the solid jelly roll for another quilt 🙂

One generous sized 80×80 quilt!

I wanted to highlight the pinwheels by adding a little something extra by hand quilting inside them with some perle cotton with a nice chunky stitch.  Try it, you’ll love it!  The printed portions of the quilt I stippled with a medium gray thread.

Karin Vail

Sweet Flowers Quiet Book

Hi, everyone, it’s LeAnne Ballard from Everyday Celebrations. It has been too long since I’ve posted over here so I am very excited to share this project.

When I first started up my blog back in 2007, some of my first projects were Quiet or Fabric Books. I love making them to keep little ones happy and distracted while mama, or dad for that matter, are out and about running errands, sitting in church, or waiting in a doctor’s office. I’ve made several different books and you can see all my patterns/tutorials for quiet books here or in my shop. (My most popular one is the FREE ‘my colors’ quiet book tutorial.) I had fun making this little quiet book for the Bake Shop and hope you enjoy all things summery, flower-y, and nature-y found in this little book. For a change, this book has no words, and I think it turned out just darling.


1 charm pack of your choice, Vintage Modern pictured
one or two of your favorite fat quarters
1 yard of green ric rac, for flower stems
1/2 yard each of pink, yellow, and orange ric rac
1/4 yard 72″ wide white felt
black embroidery floss, bird’s eyes
orange embroidery floss, bird’s legs  1 1/2″ binder ring
1 yard of fusible webbing, I use and prefer Heat n’ Bond
     – If you want to reinforce pieces by sewing, use a sewable type of webbing like Heat n’ Bond Lite
     – If you do not want to sew pieces at all, use a non-sewable type of webbing like Heat n’ Bond    Ultrahold
hot glue or tacky glue

the following fabrics/felts can come from your stash/scraps:
5″ square of yellow fabric, for sun
small scrap of orange fabric, for bird’s beak 
scraps of green felt, for flower leaves
scrap of pink felt, for flower center

Below you will find a picture for each page of the book and brief directions. Assembling each page is pretty self-explanatory if you use the pictures as your guide. However, here are some general instructions to keep in mind as you assemble your book.

General Instructions

  1. Keep all page elements approximately 1/2″ away from the edge of each page. You will be sewing the pages back to back and want space for a seam allowance.
  2. Attach page elements layer by layer. Meaning, start with the pieces that are underneath and work your way to the top.
  3. Play with the placement of all pieces before sewing anything in place. Then remove pieces and attach layer by layer.
  4. Backstitch. Backstitch. Backstich. Did I say backstitch? This will secure your pieces in place, if you don’t they will fall off over time.
  5. Please follow the instructions for you brand of fusible webbing. Each one is a little different, so I won’t give directions for that.
  6. I used fusible webbing on the fabric pieces. I sewed felt pieces in place with my sewing machine.
  7. When fusing the pieces onto the felt, use a pressing cloth between the iron and the felt. This helps prevent melting the felt. Yes it melts, and yes I know that from experience. 
  8. Fuse the raw ends of ric rac to prevent fraying before sewing in place. I just hold the ends close to an open flame. Be careful, don’t play with matches, use in a well ventilated area….just be safe. 🙂 
  9. To attach ric rac, pin in desired position and sew down the middle. Backstitch. 🙂

Cutting Pages 

  1. Cut one 6 1/2″ strip from your 72″ wide felt. Sub cut into eight 6 1/2″ squares.

Pattern Pieces

  1. All pattern pieces are in the printable PDF version at the bottom of this post. 
  2. Pattern pieces indicate whether the piece needs to be cut from felt. Otherwise, trace onto fusible web and adhere to the appropriate fabrics.


  1. Cut one 4 1/2″ and one 3 1/2″ piece of green ric rac for the stems. Fuse ends. Pin in desired positions and sew in place.
  2. Place petals on felt for the flower on the left. (The petals’ will slightly overlap or touch .) Fuse and sew in place. Place center on top. The center will cover the raw inside edges of the petals. Sew in place.
  3. Layer the flower on the right in place. Fuse and sew in place.
  4.  Sew two leaves per flower as desired.

Sun Page

1. Cut two 3″ pieces of orange ric rac. Cut two 3 1/2″ pieces and one 4″ piece of yellow ric rac. Fuse ends of ric rac.
2. Place ric rac in desired positions, use picture above for placement help.
3. Sew the ends of the ric rac that will be under the sun in place. (photo below)

4. Place sun so it covers the ends of the ric rac. Fuse in place. Topstitch close to the edge. (I pinned the ric rac so it wouldn’t move around while I sewed.)

    Birdie Page

    1. Cut the following pieces from charm squares and sew together using 1/4″ seam allowance: 3″x2″, 1 3/4″ x 2″, 2″ x 2″ Press seams as desired.
    2. Place this piece and sew on the right hand side of the page. Sew in place as desired. 
    3. Fuse bird’s beak in place.
    4. Fuse and sew bird’s body in place.
    5. With wrong sides together, sew bird’s wings together using narrow seam allowance. (Mine is pretty close to the edge.) Attach wing to body by zig zag stitching along raw edge.
    6. Embroider bird’s eye using French Knot and 6 strands of black embroidery floss.
    7. Embroider bird’s legs using back stitch and 3 strands of orange embroidery floss

    Rain Page

    1. Fuse raindrops in place in desired positions.
    2. Sew in place using decorative stitching. I basically just sewed down the middle of each rain drop however I wanted. I used zig zag stitches, a series of straight stitches, etc. 

      Flowers #1 Page

      1. Cut two 2 1/2″ and one 1 1/2″ pieces of green ric rac.  Fuse ends. 
      2. Place ric rac pieces about 2 1/4″ from the bottom of the page.  Pin in desired positions and sew in place.
      3. Cut  the following pieces from charm squares and sew together using 1/4″ seam allowance:      1 3/4″ x 2″, 2 1/2″ x 2″, 2 1/4″ x 2″ Press seams as desired.
      4. Place this piece on the bottom of the page so you cover the ends of the ric rac stems. Sew in place as desired. (I sewed about 1/8″ from the edge.)
      5. Place flowers on stems as desired, covering the ends of the ric rac stems. Layer the bottom layer, then the top. Add some decorative stitching to the flower centers to secure both layers of the flowers. 
      6.  Sew two leaves per flower as desired. 

        Flower #2 Page

        1. Cut the following pieces from fat quarters (or you can use charms but they will be slightly shorter, still totally works) one 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ strip and one 1″ x 5 1/2″ strip. Piece together using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams as desired.
        2. Place this piece and sew on the bottom of the page. (I sewed about 1/8″ from the edge.)
        3. Cut one 4 1/2″ and one 5 1/2″ piece of pink ric rac. Fuse ends. Place ric rac as shown and sew in place.
        4. Place flower petals as shown. Fuse in place.  Use decorative stitching to secure the flower petals. I sewed down the middle of the petals, similar to how I did the rain drops. (As you can see I just went from flower to flower through the middle part. Saved me a little time instead of removing the page after each stitch.)

        6. Place felt center and fabric center as desired, covering the stitching and the raw inside edges of the petals.
        7. Sew centers in place by sewing through both layers.

        Flower Finger Puppets Page

        1. Place one charm square on the page, about 3/4″ from the top of the page and sew in place using about 1/8″ seam allowance.
        2. Cut one 5 1/2″ x 6″ rectangle from a fat quarter. Fold in half and press. Place on page about 1/2″ from the bottom with the fold at the top. Sew in place about 1/8″ from the edge to create a pocket. Don’t sew across the top.
        3. Cut out six finger puppet shapes from felt. Sew or fuse flowers to three of the finger puppet pieces.
        4. Put a thin bead tacky or hot glue around the edge of one finger puppet piece. (Not along the bottom.) Place a finger puppet piece with a flower on top and press together. Glue leaves in place.
        5. I included a flower song and finger play that my daughter and I have been singing. They were kinda the inspiration for this page. The songs don’t require puppets, but puppets always make songs more fun! Right?  Two song cards are included in the printable PDF. Just print it off, cut down to size, adhere back to back and laminate if desired. I also rounded the corners of my card. Songs are by Jean Warren and can be found here. (Paper backgrounds are from Crystal Wilkerson’s Pretty Patterns Paper Packs in Caribbean Blue and Perfectly Pink.) The card is sized to fit into the pocket.

          Back Cover

          1. In the upper right hand corner leave a about a 1″ square free from fabric for the binder ring hole. 
          2. The back cover is just a series of thin strips from charm squares. I cut them in various widths from 1/2″ – 1″. Then just stagger them across the page and sew in place. Again, I used various types of decorative stitching.  

            Assembling the Book
            1. Place the following pages back to back with WRONG sides together. Pin at the corners to secure.

            • Cover & Sun Pages
            • Birdie & Raindrop Pages
            • Flowers #1 & Flower #2 Pages
            • Finger Puppet Page & Back Cover

            2. Sew pages together using 1/4″ seam allowance.  Backstitch.
            3. To make the holes for the binder ring, simply snip a small hole in the upper lefthand corner of each page pair about 1/4″ inside the stitching lines. I’ve had customers say they’ve made button holes or used grommets for this step. I’ve never done either but is an option. This way has always worked for me.
            4. Slide pages onto binder ring. 
            5. Cut 1/2″ – 3/4″ wide strips from charm squares. Or you can use ribbon, just fuse the ends. Tie onto the binder ring.

            one darling quiet book for one lucky little lady

            LeAnne Ballard

            May Flowers Quilt

            I am so glad to be back presenting to you another recipe.  I had this concept all picked out and was exuberant when I received this Vintage Modern fabric line – what a beautiful collection!  This quilt would be adorable for a little girl or as a showcase throw blanket.

            (1) layer cake (I used the BEAUTIFUL fabric – Vintage Modern from Bonnie and Camille)
            (2) yards light background
            (2) yards dark background
            (1.5) yards coordinating fabric for part of pieced back and binding
            (.25) yards each of (3) different bright colors for blooms

            Applique fuse (2-sided fusible bond such as wonder under)

            Circle maker (I have used Easy Circle for some, household items – a wreath, bowl, etc) for other diameters (I have also included a template for a paper pattern in the printer friendly version).  
            Coordinating thread for applique (I used a cream, green, and a hot pink/almost red color)
            sew using 1/4″ seem unless otherwise noted
            For pieced circles and half circles, remember to cut an additional 1/4″ seam allowance on the length so it is still a circle once the halves are sewn.

            Prepare Fabrics (wash and/or iron based on your preference)
            1. Select needed pieces from layer cake:
            Set aside any (3) green fabrics from the layer cake (will be used for stem and leaves later)
            Select 7 pieces of the remaining layer cake for the scallop border
            Select an additional (2-3) pieces to help make the blooms

            Make the Scallop Border
            2.     Cut:
            Using your circle maker, make a 9″ half circle from each of the (7) selected layer pieces for scallop. (you will want the additional 1/4″ seam allowance here)
            Cut (8) 9″half circles from your fuse 

            Of the fabric you just cut, choose two leftover pieces to make a 1/4 of a 9″ circle
            Cut one of the fuse half circles in half (for the quarter piece scallops)

            3.     Fuse:
            Layout your light background fabric. Find the middle point of the left edge of the fabric and select one scallop piece.  Layout the fuse and place the scallop piece so both the background fabric and scallop fabric “right” sides are facing up.  Iron the scallop in place according to the fuse directions.

            Working outwards from there, attach (using the fuse) the remainder of the scallop pieces, lining up the edges so they are just barley touching each other lining the left edge of light background fabric.  Save the 1/4 circle pieces for the very top and bottom of the scallop row.

             4.     Sew:

            Using a zig-zag stitch, applique around the arcing perimeter of each scallop piece
            Piecing Background
            5.     Take darker background fabric and cut Length of fabric (LOF) to make a 20″x2yard piece
            6.     Layer the scalloped edge of the light background fabric and the darker background fabric “right” sides facing together.  Pin in place and sew 1/4″ seam down the entire length.  

            Press seam towards darker fabric

            Making Stems and Leaves
            Choose (3) of your green layer cake pieces. 
            7.     From one, cut (5) 2″ strips
            sew pieces together, short end to short end to make a long stem. 
            Press seams open. 

            8.     From the second, cut (4) 2″ strips
            sew pieces together, short end to short end to make a long stem.
            Press seams open. 

            9.     Also cut (2) pieces for leaves

            10.           From the third, cut (2) background pieces for leaves

            Add fuse to the back of leaves and sections of the stem to attach to background fabric until you applique.

            11.  Measure 17″ to the right of the edge of the light color background.  Use this as the edge of the first stem.  Measure the 17″ up at different increments to make sure the stem is straight. 

            Measure 28″ to the right of the edge of the light color background.  Use this as the edge of the second stem.  Measure the 28″ up at different increments to make sure the stem is straight.

            Attach each using the fuse; then, using coordinating thread, applique (I used zig zag stitch again) around the left and right sides the length of the stems.

            Fuse leaves in position and applique around each layer of the leaf and up the middle.

            (I measured up 14″ from the bottom and 11″ from the light background edge to place the first leaf, and 25″ from the bottom and 30″ from the light background edge to place the second leaf.)

            Making Blooms
            12.  Cut:
            From your (.25 yard) bloom fabric choices cut
            ·       (2) 17″ half circles (with 1/4″ seam allowance)
            ·       From another color choice, cut (2) 13″ half cirlces (with 1/4″seam allowance) and (2) 10.5″ half circles (with 1/4″ seam allowance)
            ·       From the 3rd .25 yard fabric, cut (1) 9.5″ circle, (2) 14″ half circles (with 1/4″ seam allowance, and (2) 5.5″ hal circles with (1/4″ seam allowance)

            Cut your 3 bloom layer cake pieces as below:
            • 7.5″ circle
            • 8.5″ circle
            • 5″ circle  (I pieced this level of the bloom from 1/2 circles I was able to eek out of one of the layer cake pieces from the scallop border leftover.)
            • From a standout print ( i used a white background) cut (2) 2.5″ cirlces for the center of each bloom
            13.  Sew, Fuse, applique:
            Sew all 1/2 circles together, press seams open

            Start with biggest circle and layer (both “Right” sides facing up) next bloom level on top, centering as best you can.  Fuse the layers together.  Continue this process, layering, centering, and fusing each level of the bloom.  Using the hot pink/red coordinating thread, applique each level of bloom (again, I love zig zag stitch for this)

            Repeat for both blooms 

            14.  Measure up 26.25″ from bottom of first stem and center bloom over stem.  Fuse in place.  Then applique bloom to background fabric.  Measure up 44.25″ from bottom of second stem and center bloom.  Fuse in place. 

            15.  Then applique bloom to background fabric

            Prepare Binding
            16.  Cut:
            From fabric selection cut (7) 2.5″ strips from width of fabric (selvage to selvage).  Remove selvages

            17.  Piece:
            Draw diagonal line on the back of one selvage

            Laying one strip right side up, place piece with diagonal line perpendicular, lining up the diagonal with the edges the other strip.  Pin in place, sew down diagonal line

            Trim to 1/4″ past sewn line, trimming corners

            Iron seam open
            Repeat until each of the (7) strips are attached in one long strip.

            Fold strip in half lengthwise, ironing down.  Set aside for binding later

            Pieced Backing
            You are going to piece a back using remaining fabrics (remainder of dark background fabric, remainder of binding fabric, and remainder of layer cake)

            18.  Cut remaining binding fabric into (15) 10″ squares & cut remaining dark background fabric into (15) 10″ squares.  

            Layout these pieces into a 4×4 row/column every other fabric choice.  I then used remaining layer cake pieces to serve as a border surrounding this. 

            19.  Sew together rows first (press seams as indicated in picture to allow easier piecing of rows)

            I generally find that there is less pulling and stretching when I sew equal widths of fabric together. 
            Thus, sew pairs of rows together, 

            then sew paired rows to paired rows, 

            then sew the 2 halves together.  Press row seams open


            20.  Layout pieced back, “right” side facing down, Layer batting on top, making sure to slightly tug to make sure there are no wrinkles in backing fabric, finally, layer quilt top on top “right” side facing up.  Pin or baste layers together

            21.  I had an acquaintance, Clora (from Coal City, IL), quilt mine for me (she quilted this pretty design in an hour or so – which is always amazing to me!)

            22. Attach binding to top layer, then hand stitch binding to backing

            23. Enjoy your pretty May Flowers quilt!!

            62″x72″ quilt

            Becky McGrath

            Happy Weekender Quilt

            The Happy Weekender Quilt is a super easy quilt that can be completed in a weekend {or two}. It is a great beginner quilt and is the “oh my goodness I need a gift super fast” quilt.

            This Happy Weekender is inspired by a mini I made for my grandmother last year using Dream On. When I saw Vintage Modern, I knew it was the perfect fabric for a larger sized quilt!

            {this is a photo of the mini using Dream On}

            I hope you enjoy making and using the Happy Weekender :o)

            3 charm packs of Moda Vintage Modern
            Moda Bella Solid White 1.5 yds
            Moda Bella Solid Aqua {binding}
            Coordinating thread {I used Aurifil 50wt 100% cotton}

            Cut 1.5 yds solid in to 5″ strips {all length measurements are approximate}
            {2} 5″ x 41″ strips
            {2} 5″ x 41.5″ strips
            {2} 5″ x 25″ strips
            {2} 5″ x15.5″ strips

            Use the excess from the other pieces to piece together the longer strips
            {2} 5″ x 58.25″ strips
            {2} 5″ x59″ strips

            Take your charms and place them randomly to create seven rows across and nine rows down. You can either do this on a design wall or a floor in your house.

            When you are happy with your placement, take your first two charms and sew the right sides facing using a 1/4 in seam.

            Continue to connect the charms until you have your first row of seven.

            Repeat the process until you have your nine rows.

            Press all of your seams open.

            When all the seams are pressed open, line up one row at a time, again, right sides facing, matching up the seams and pinning.

            Using a 1/4in seam sew each of the rows together and then press the seams open.

            Continue to add the rows until you have all nine sewn.

            The quilt top center block is completed!!!!

            Measure the sides center patchwork section and using the 5″ x41″ {approx} in solid strips, attach to the right and left sides of the center patchwork block, press open and trim any excess.  Then take your 5″ x 41.5″strips attach to the top and bottom of the quilt.  Press seams open and trim any excess.

            When you have attached the strips your quilt will look like this:

            Using two sets of seven charms with 20in”( approx measurement) solid strips we will be making the next step. Sew the charms in a row, press and attach to a strip of the solid fabric

            Pin to the quilt in the left and right sides, right sides facing, trying to line up the seams of the blocks in the center to the outer row.

            Sew the strip on, press and trim up the edges.

            This is how the quilt will look at this point {it looks wonky but it was being super bunchy for some odd reason}.

            You will repeat the previous step using five charms instead of seven. For the five charms will have a 25″ solid strip attached. These will be placed at the top and bottom.

            This goes together so quickly!

            For the final step, take your 5″ x 58.25″{sides} and your 5″ x 59″ {top and bottom} in sashing strips and attach them to each side of the quilt, the sides then the top and bottom.

            The quilt top is now completed!

            For the quilt back, I chose to take some of the remaining charms and made a half square triangle zig zag pattern. The quilting is a simple rectangle box.

            One fast fun and functional quilt to love :o) The final quilt size is 66.5″ x 58.5″. It is the perfect picnic or lap blanket. This one will be going to my grandmother for her birthday :o)

            Kim Niedzwiecki