Family Tree Quilted Pillow

Greetings, Moda Bake Shop readers.  My name is Karen Miller, and I’m a new Chef here at the Bake Shop!  I live in the beautiful Finger Lakes Region of Upstate New York, USA, and I blog about all things Quilty at Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals.  Stop by and check out my projects, tutorials, and other happenings.

Today I’m excited to share a Quilted Envelope Pillow recipe using Deb Strain’s “Family Tree” fabric.

With its beautiful colorways, “Family Tree” is perfect for fall – AND – spring projects!  As you can see from my Blog, I’m addicted to birds – so the Family Tree birds and paisley along with some awesome dimensional cuts have me sold on this line…  I’m sure you will LOVE IT too!

Several techniques were used to complete the quilted pillow including machine piecing, applique, fussy cutting, and free motion quilting.  Both cotton and wool fabric were used in this sample — I hope you enjoy the variety.

The finished pillow fits a 20″ x 20″ pillow insert and has a cute little 2″ flange around the outside!

Pillow Top, Envelope Back and Misc Applique Pieces:

    • 1 Jelly Roll Family Tree #19640JR

Applique Background:

    • 1 Fat Quarter Family Tree Cream #19649 11

Applique Tree:

    • 1 7″ x 10″ piece Moda Marble Chocolate #6851


    • 28″ square inexpensive cotton fabric for quilted pillow backing
    • 28″ square piece of batting (I used Hobbs Poly)
    • 20″ square Pillow Form

Optional choices:

  • For Applique Tree:  7″ x 10″ piece Moda Wool Dark Brown #810-58
  • For Applique Birds:  5″ x 5″ scrap of Moda Wool Red #1700-72
  • Quilter’s Freezer Paper
  • DMC #8 Pearl Cotton Thread in Red & Brown for wool applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2000 1GN for quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2845 1GN & #2600 ICN for top stitching


Please review all instructions before getting started. 

Unless otherwise indicated, all piecing was completed using a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance.


Pillow Top Piecing:

Applique Background: Cut one 13″ x 13″ square using Family Tree Cream or any other neutral Moda fabric.

Pieced Pillow Top : From your Jelly Roll choose 5 to 10 different strips for the pillow top – The sample was completed using 7 different fabric strips and alternating lighter/darker fabrics in the block.

Cutting and Piecing Pillow Top:  Using the “Piecing and Cutting” diagram below, cut strip sizes and sew to the cream applique background.  Note:  The diagram indicates the order in which you piece AND the size of the cut piece.

Example:   #1 – 13″ represents the first piece you sew to the background and it is cut 13 inches long.

Piecing and Cutting Diagram – # indicates the order and ” indicate size to cut

Note:  Above pieces #9, #10, #11 and #12 were sewn to the pillow top after I completed the applique.  You can sew them on at any time.

Cutting Tip:   When you’re cutting pieces that are longer than 10 or 12 inches consider this approach:

Take 1/2 of the desired size as your target, fold your fabric to the target size plus a bit of overlap. Find the target size mark on your ruler and place it on the fabric fold. Trim the opposite end.

This method allows you to remove the selvage while cutting the desired strip size and helps avoid LONG strip and ruler alignment.

Now, back to the pillow top — be sure to press your seams toward the outside of the pillow after each strip is sewn.  I was taught to first press the seam flat before pressing it in the desired direction.  The seams come out beautifully using this method.

Now that you’ve completed most or all of the piecing on the pillow top it’s time to applique!


Pillow Top Applique: 

The applique portion of the pillow allows for great flexibility!

In the completed sample I used Moda Wool for the tree and birds and attached them to the background with a whipstitch (sometimes referred to as an overhand stitch).  The birds were stuffed to give them dimension.   Needle turn applique method was used for the tree leaves.  In all cases, basting was done with applique pins.

If you would rather not use the sample methods, there are many applique options available including raw or turned edge applique, fused or glued, with hand or machine stitching.  If you have any questions on any particular method, leave a comment here or on my blog, and I would be happy to give you feedback.  Also, check out the great Moda Bake Shop Basics tutorials on Machine Applique and Turned Edge Machine Applique.

Tree above in Moda Marble — Yummy !

Tree & Birds:

If you are using wool and not fusing it down, then you’ll want to have Quilter’s Freezer Paper on hand.  If you don’t have Quilters Freezer paper sheets, you can use rolled freezer paper from your kitchen drawer 😉

Using the tree template below, trace the tree design to the dull or paper side of the freezer paper.

Tree Template

With a dry iron set on **medium heat, press your freezer paper to the right side of the wool.
**Use care not to burn and/or discolor your wool.

Cut along the drawn line.  Remove the freezer paper.

Use applique pins to secure the tree to the background fabric, then use Pearl Cotton thread to stitch using a Whipstitch.

Finished Tree:

Once your tree is stitched down, use the same techniques to cut and stitch your birds.

Bird layout:

Before stitching the birds to the background you can (optionally) add some dimension by stuffing them with batting.


Once the birds are stitched to the background, give them each a wing.  I fussy cut paisley wings using clear template plastic to help find the perfect fussy cut.  You’ll notice that I auditioned several different fabrics for wings — there are many great choices.  Choose what looks good to your eye and attach using your favorite applique method.

After stitching the tree, birds, and bird wings to the background, choose several strips from the jelly roll and fussy cut leaves to complete the tree.  The sample leaves were completed using needle turn applique, but use your favorite applique method.  For a fast and easy solution consider raw edge applique using fusible web to secure and machine top stitch for added interest.

Once the applique is completed, add the 4 outside border pieces (pieces #9 through #12 from the Piecing and Cutting Diagram above).

Your unquilted pillow top should measure appx 24 3/4 inches square.


Prepare for Pillow Top Quilting:

In the sample, only the pillow top was quilted. 

Prepare the quilt sandwich on a table top — the pillow size is perfect because nothing drapes over the edges of the table!

First, lay out your backing fabric — remember this fabric will not show once your envelope pillow is completed, so use a less expensive muslin or a light colored cotton fabric.

Now secure the backing fabric to the table with tape, pulling it taut, but using care not to stretch your fibers – you don’t want it to spring back when the tape is removed.

Next, position and smooth batting over the backing, secure it with tape, remembering not to pull too tight.


Lastly, position and smooth the pillow top right side up on the batting, always smoothing from the center out and securing as you smooth.

Pin basting is complete.

I use quilting safety pins to baste my quilt tops, but there are other methods including spray basting and basting with straight pins and soft tips.


Quilt the Pillow Top:

Using matching thread and a walking foot, stitch in the ditches along the strip pieces to stabilize the pillow top before Free Motion Quilting the applique area.

Start at the edge of the applique background and work your way outward – stitching in the ditch.

Also, baste stitch around the outside perimeter of the pillow top.

Free Motion Quilt the applique area:

Free motion quilting is fun and it allows you to enjoy your piece without the wait of someone else doing your quilting for you.   This pillow top is a perfect place to practice free motion quilting..  Here are some basics:

Use a top and bobbin thread that match the applique background, put your darning foot on, and drop the feed dogs on your machine.  For ease of movement, use a Supreme Slider on your machine bed.  Check out my blog in the next few weeks for more “Free Motion Quilting Basics”.

Start by echo stitching around each applique piece.   I used Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2000 thread to quilt the applique area – the color matched perfectly!

After you’ve echo stitched the applique, quilt any design you like to fill in the background.  The more densely you quilt, the more your applique pieces will POP!

The sample was quilted using a combination of “McTavishing”, circles, and swirls, which all added movement to the piece. 

Quilt the Pillow Top Strips:

Once you have finished quilting the applique area, quilt the pieced strips with a top stitch.  I used a 2.70 stitch length on my machine.  Use a thread color that complements the fabric.

Square Up the Pillow Top:

Depending on the density of your quilting you may have to make some fine adjustments to square up the pillow top.   On the sample piece the right side was simple and squared up nicely.

However, because of the dense quilting in the lower left corner of the sample, some “fine adjustments” aka “fudging it” were made on the left and bottom edges.  You can see from the diagram below that the “fine adjustment” included trimming outside of the top fabric, resulting in only the batting and backing being square.

“Squaring up” which does not cut into the top fabric is not a problem; however, it may require you to increase the seam allowance when the pillow layers are stitched together.   This was the case with the sample pillow.

The sample piece pillow top squared up at 24.25″.

Important:  The above measurement is necessary to trim the envelope pieces.  The width of the envelope pieces will need to match the width of the pillow top (trimmed and squared).

For now, set your pillow top aside and prepare to piece the envelope back.


Pieced Envelope Back:

The envelope back requires two pieces:

  • One 19″ by 25″ envelope top (horizontal strips)
  • One 17″ by 25″ envelope bottom (vertical strips)

The sample was pieced using 13 of the remaining jelly roll strips.

To piece the scrappy back choose 13 WOF strips from the jelly roll.

Envelope fabric strips

Arrange the strips in a layout that is pleasing to your eye.

Sew the long sides of the 13 strips together.

When complete you should have a 42″ by 26.5″ rectangle.

From the rectangle, cut one 26″ by 26″ square, rotate it and trim it to 19″ by 24.25″ (same as the width of pillow top once squared up) with the strips running horizontally.  This is the envelope top.

Use the remaining 17″ by 26″ piece for the bottom of the envelope.  Trim to 17″ by 24.25″ (same as the width of pillow top once squared up).  These strips run vertically.

Fold and topstitch one wide edge of the envelope top and one wide edge of the envelope bottom.

Now you’re ready to layer, pin and sew your pillow layers together!

Complete the Pillow:

Be sure all three pieces (Pillow Top, Envelope Top and Envelope Bottom) are the same width.  The sample measured 24.25″ wide.

Begin by positioning the pillow top, right side up on a table.

Add the envelope top, right side down on the pillow top.  Align the raw edges at the top, left, and right. Pin.  The envelope top will not cover the entire pillow – align it at the top edge.

Lastly, add the envelope bottom, right side down over the bottom portion of the pillow top.  Align raw edges at the bottom, left, and right. Pin.  The envelope bottom will not cover the entire pillow top but it will overlap the envelope top by about 6″.

Using your walking foot sew around the entire outside of the pillow layers using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. The envelope opening will allow you to turn right side out.

Trim all 4 corners to reduce bulk.  Gently press the seams open.

Next, turn the pillow right side out through the envelope.  Once right side out, reach inside to push out the corners.  If necessary, from the right side, use a pin to pull the corner fabric out.

Almost done !

Press around the outside edges of the completed pillow.

Sew the Flange

The flange is made by stitching in the ditch, through all layers, as designated by “A” in the diagram below.  This makes the pillow the correct size to fit a 20″ x 20″ pillow form.

To give the pillow a more finished look, topstitch around the inner and outer edges of the outside strips as designated with “B” below.

Below is a close up of the top stitching around the flange:

Whew – that was fun!

Now you have a beautiful quilted pillow with flange that you can use for fall or spring decorating.

Are you ready to get started ?

Check out the awesome price on the Family Tree Jelly roll at Cindy’s Sew It Is!

Completed Front and Back:

One 22″ x 22″ Quilted Envelope Pillow with a 2″ Flange — and plenty of Jelly Roll strips leftover for an accent pillow!!

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Also, I would love to have you jump on over to my blog and say hello.

There are some neat posts about Wool Applique here and here, and if you’re interested in learning more about Needle Turn Applique or Free Motion Quilting, stop by in November when I’ll post some basic tutorials on these topics. 

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller

Color Pop Pillow

Hi, everyone! It’s Lisa Calle of Vintage Modern Quilts here today kicking off Color Pop month on the Moda Bake Shop. Two of my favorite things come together in this fast and easy project – Nine patches + Bella Solids! I used a mix of Moda Candy (2.5″ squares) and fat quarters to make my pillow covers, but you could use yardage, charms, or even jelly rolls.

For one pillow, you will need:
9 bright squares from your Moda Candy (I used 2012 Bella Solids)
72 2.5″ squares in a variety of neutral solids
4 – 2.25″x22″ strips of fabric for border
20″ pillow form
24″ square of batting
24″ square of muslin
21″ square of backing fabric

Perle cotton thread for hand quilting

Note: Piecing seams are 1/4″. Pillow assembly seams are 1/2″.

For each 20″ pillow cover you are making, choose nine bright squares from your Moda Candy pack. You will need 72 neutral squares for your background. I used all of the neutrals in the Moda Candy pack plus some more I had on hand, including stone, feather, bleached white, and silver.

Select eight neutrals and one bright color pop for each 9-patch, placing the color pop square in the center:

Sew 9-patches together and press well. Trim into quarters:

Square up each quarter to 3.25.” Arrange your blocks into a pleasing design in rows of six. Sew together and press each row.

Join the rows together to form your pillow top.

Attach your borders, trimming off any extra fabric.

Layer your pillow top, batting, and muslin square. Pin or spray paste to keep in place. Quilt as desired. I quilted several straight lines using my machine to hold the layers together and then I added a lot of hand quilting using a variety of perle cotton threads.

Trim to 21 inches square. Serge edges or sew a zig zag stitch around quilted top and 21″ piece of backing fabric so your pillow is nicely finished inside.

About my backing fabric…I used four pieces of Moda wool from a bundle called Crazy Cuts that I’ve been hoarding for several years. I thought, “Why save it when I can enjoy it daily on the back of this pillow?” Moda offers a variety of wools in their basics line, including solids, houndstooth, and plaids.

Start using 1/2″ seams from here on out! You can even go to 5/8″ seams if you want your pillow case to fit nice and tight on the pillow form. 

Insert your zipper between the backing fabric and the quilted pillow top using your favorite method. Unzip the zipper and sew the remaining three sides. Use the zipper opening to turn the pillow right-side-out.

One 20″x20″ pillow cover with pops of color!

If you make a pillow, be sure and add it to the {Moda Bake Shop Flickr pool}.

Lisa Calle

Hugs & Kisses Valentine Banner

I really enjoy decorating for each holiday and lately I’ve been making seasonal banners to hang on the mantel above my fireplace. I especially LOVE Valentine’s Day and thought I’d share my most recent design with you. Below you will also see a few of the other banner’s I’ve made.
Valentine Banner

Spring Time Banner

Thanksgiving Blessings Banner

Christmas Banner

  • 1/4 yard cut of 11 fabrics from Moda’s “Giddy” Collection by Sandy Gervais for Banner Flags, Yoyo’s, and Covered Buttons
  • 1/4 Yard Red Plaid for Non Bias Binding Strip
  • Moda Wool Basics (Brown, Snow & Pinkie Coral)
  • Aunt Lydia’s Crochet Thread (Size 3-Scarlett #0006)
  • Heavyweight Heat N’ Bond
3/4″ Covered Buttons by Dritz (need 12)
Orange Yoyo Maker by Clover (make 12)
Assorted Red Buttons by Buttons Galore (need 44 or more)

Part One: Making 11 Banner Flags
1. Choose 11 fabrics from Moda’s “Giddy” Collection by Sandy Gervais

2. Open each 1/4 yard piece of fabric and press.

3. Leave each 1/4 yard folded and lay it out on the cutting board then using a rotary cutter and acrylic ruler, cut off the selvage edges. Then cut a rectangle from each of the 11 fabrics measuring 5 1/2″ x 7″ you will get two rectangles per fabric and two rectangles measuring 2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ after squaring up the ends as seen in picture below. The leftover rectangle measuring 2 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ I cut into four 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″squares (per fabric) for a total of 44 little 2 1/2″ squares. FYI: I fussy cut the striped print because I wanted the stripes to be perfectly horizontal instead of vertical.

4. Print and cut out the Banner Flag Pattern.
5. Lay Banner Flag Pattern on each set of 2 like fabrics with the curved edge just touching one edge of fabric as seen in picture.
6. Cut the fabric along the curved edge of pattern. Repeat for remaining 10 fabrics.
7. Take one set of like fabrics and match with right sides together. Repeat for remaining 10 fabrics.

8. Sew outer edge of each curved flag seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance, starting from top right side down and around the curve and back up to the top left side. I like to chain stitch the pieces to save on thread.
9. Do NOT sew the top edge of curved flags (unfinished edge will be sewn into binding).
10. Clip Curves before turning right side out.
11. Turn right sides out and press.
Part Two: Making the Wool Circles and Letters

  • 6 Ivory wool scalloped circles ( 3 3/4″ )
  • 5 Brown wool scalloped circles ( 3 3/4″ )
  • 11 Pinky Salmon Wool Letters (1-H • 1-U • 1-G • 4-S’s • 1-& • 1-K • 1-I • 1-E)
  • Aunt Lydia’s Size 3 Crochet Thread in Scarlet Red

I used my Sizzix Big Shot Shape Cutting Machine to cut out the wool letters and the wool Scalloped Circles. The Sizzix Big Shot Shape Cutting Machine (see links provided) is readily available and the scalloped circle is also available for purchase from the Sizzix Website but the letters I used are a much older set that I’ve had for a many years now. I’ve included a few fonts that are similar to the font I used. Check out the “Printer Friendly Format” that you can use to download the patterns for the letters and the banner flags along with the project tutorial.

1. First lay down the acrylic cutting pad then place the Scalloped Circle Die facing up.
2. Center and place wool or fabric or paper on top of the cutting die.
3. Place the second acrylic cutting pad on top of the stack.
4. Rotate handle to roll the stack through the Sizzix Big Shot Shape Cutting Machine. Remove top acrylic cutting pad to expose the cut piece of wool, fabric, or paper.

5. The steps for cutting the letters is basically the same as the scalloped circle except that you will need to make sure that your Heat N’ Bond paper is facing up so after the letters have been cut they will face the right direction after taking off the paper.

6. Make sure that you have all the pieces stacked in the correct order before rolling through the cutting machine.

7. After you roll the stack through the cutting machine remove the acrylic cutting pad to expose the cut wool letters.

8. Separate the letters from the rectangle of wool then remove the paper backing.

9. Place a letter in the center of each scalloped circle making sure to follow the color order of the circles. Fuse the letters to the scalloped circles following the directions on the Heat N’ Bond

10. Use the size 3 crochet thread to sew on the scalloped circles. The circles are stitched through both layers of the fabric flag. Make sure the beginning and ending knots are hidden on the inside of the flag. Sew this before the banner flags are attached and sewn into the binding strip.

Part Three: Making the Binding Strip
1. Cut 3 Strips measuring 2 1/2″ x Width of Fabric for a total of approximately 120″ of binding FYI: Normally I would make bias binding strips but the plaid fabric is printed to appear as it would if you were to cut bias strips so just cut them on the straight of grain to retain that bias look.
2. Sew seams together to create one continuous strip.
3. Lay strip lengthwise on ironing board.
4. Fold fabric in half: length to length and press.
5. Open. Take bottom raw edge and fold toward pressed center. Press fold. Repeat for the opposite edge and press fold.
6. Now fold pressed edges together to encase the raw edges of binding inside.

7. Give binding another good press.
Part Four: Putting Together the Banner
1. Take your Binding Strip and find the center by folding it end-to-end. Then mark the center with a pin.
2. Find the Curved Flag that goes in the middle of banner. In this case, it’s the letter “K”.
3. Open the binding strip. The flags will be sandwiched in between the opening of the binding strip. Place the center of the center flag in the center of the binding strip.

4. Close binding strip over the flags and pin each in place.
5. The Spacing between each flag is 1″.
6. Make sure flags are in correct order H • U • G • S • & • K • I • S • S • E • S.
7. Sew a narrow seam along the edge of binding strip to encase the flags inside.
Part Five: Embellishing the Banner

12 Covered Buttons (Size 3/4″)

Assorted Red Buttons (need at least 33-I used 44)

This part of the tutorial is totally optional, although it does add a lot of cuteness and pizazz to the banner. You so want to do it, right? It did take me several hours to make the yoyo’s, the covered buttons, and then to attach them to the banner. Plus, I had to sew on the 44 red buttons but, it was totally worth it!
FYI: I bought my set of 300 buttons at the craft store a few years back but you can get the same set of buttons HERE.
To make the 3/4″ covered buttons for the centers of the yoyo’s I used some of the plaid fabric in brown, red and pink. Follow the directions on the package for making covered buttons.
I also used the leftover fabric to make the 12 yoyo’s that are sewn in between each flag. I used all of the fabrics and one of the brown fabrics I used twice. Follow the directions inside the Yoyo package for making the yoyo’s.

1 Hugs & Kisses Valentine Banner but you could make a 2nd one too!
Happy Valentines Day
Hugs & Kisses,

Kim Walus

*Please set page scaling to “none” in order for the templates to print at the correct size!*

Christmas Advent Pockets

I designed this Christmas Advent Quilt for my children, my grandchildren, and for each of YOU. The quilt has 25 pockets that are perfect for hiding treats, small toys, coins, or even different Christmas activities that you can do with your children or grandchildren. I hope you are inspired to make this Christmas Advent a yearly tradition with your family.
I’m sorry about the last minute inspiration (sometimes that’s how it comes) but thinking on the positive side of things. . . did you realize that you can take advantage of the Christmas Fabric Sales? Now hurry out and hit those sales and start working on it today so it will be ready for next year.

Finished Quilt Size: 37″ x 53″
Finished Block Size: 7 1/2″ x 7 1/2″

  • 1 Layer Cake of “Fruitcake” by Basic Grey for Moda
  • 4 Fat Quarters of Moda Wool in Red, Ivory, Black, and Teal
  • 1/2 yard Red fabric for block borders
  • 1/2 yard White fabric for block borders
  • Heavyweight Heat & Bond for numbers
  • 13″ of Brown Snowflake fabric for large border
  • 1/4 yard of Brown Polka Dot fabric for small border
  • 2 yards fabric for quilt backing
  • 2 yards batting for quilt
  • 2 yards Red Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Green Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Teal Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Brown Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 1/4 yards Red Jumbo Ric Rac

Part One:
Cutting the Layer Cake for Advent Pockets
& Fabric Yardage for Block Borders

1. Choose 25 fabric squares from the Layer Cake then separate them from the pack.

2. From each of the 25 squares you will cut the following:

  • Cut 1 foundation square 5″ x 5″ for inside pocket lining
  • Cut 1 rectangle 1 1/2″ x 5″ for top portion of pocket
  • Cut 1 rectangle 2 1/4″ x 5″ for top pocket binding/lining
  • Cut 1 rectangle 3 1/2″ x 5″ for bottom portion of pocket
  • Cut 1 rectangle 4 1/4″ x 5″ for bottom pocket binding/lining
3. You will be making 13 Red Blocks and 12 White Blocks for a total of 25 Blocks.
4. From the 1/2 yard cut of red and white border fabric, cut the following:
  • Cut 26 red rectangles 2″ x 5″ for side borders
  • Cut 26 red rectangles 2″ x 8″ for top and bottom borders
  • Cut 24 white rectangles 2″ x 5″ for top and bottom borders
  • Cut 24 white rectangles 2″ x 8″ for side borders

Part Two:
Making the Advent Pockets

1. Cut 2 pieces of Ric Rac measuring 5 1/4″ out of any color you wish to use.
2. Choose the outside pocket fabric for the top and bottom pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 5″ and 3 1/2″ x 5″

3. Then choose the matching top and bottom binding/lining fabric pieces measuring 2 1/4″ x 5″ and 4 1/4″ x 5″

4. Place the 1 1/2″ x 5″ piece with right side facing up on your sewing table. Then sandwich the Ric Rac in the middle with the 2 1/4″ x 5″ piece of fabric with right side facing down on top of the Ric Rac. Pin in place to prevent any shifting. Sew the seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

5. Repeat this process for the bottom portion of the advent pocket. You will use the two pieces measuring 3 1/2″ x 5″ and 4 1/4″ x 5″

6. Open the two fabrics revealing the Ric Rac inside. Press the larger fabric piece up and over and around toward the back of the pocket. This forms the pocket binding and the inner lining of the advent pocket.
7. Trim off any excess lining fabric.

8. Place the finished top and bottom pocket pieces on top of a 5″ x 5″ foundation square with the right side facing up. Make sure the bottom edge of the top pocket and top edge of the bottom pocket meet. Baste pockets at both sides of pocket opening to secure the pocket to the 5″ x 5″ foundation square.

9. Turn pocket over and trim any excess to match the 5″ x 5″ foundation square.

10. Repeat this process for the remaining 24 advent pockets.

Part Three:
Adding the Borders to Pockets

1. Divide your advent pockets into two groups. Group One will have 13 blocks with red borders and Group Two will have 12 blocks with white borders. Remember when it comes to dividing the blocks into groups that it’s important to have contrast between the advent pockets and the border fabric. For example, you wouldn’t put a red advent pocket with the red border fabric but, you would pair it with the white border fabric. The same holds true for the light advent pockets. The other 3 colors (teal, brown, and green) can be paired with either the white or the red borders.
2. The red border strips measuring 2″ x 5″ are sewn to the left and right sides of the advent pockets and the 2″ x 8″ border strips are sewn to the top and bottom of the red blocks.
3. The white border strips measuring 2″ x 5″ are sewn to the top and bottom of the advent pocket and the 2″ x 8″ border strips are sewn to the left and right sides of the advent pockets.

4. All seams are sewn using a 1/4″ seam allowance and seams are pressed outward, away from the advent pockets.

Part Four:
Finishing the Quilt

1. Take the 25 finished blocks and lay them out in the following order:
  • Row One: red, white, red, white, red.
  • Row Two: white, red, white, red, white.
  • Row Three: red, white, red, white, red.
  • Row Four: white, red, white, red, white.
  • Row five: red, white, red, white, red.
2. Sew blocks and rows together using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the block seams toward the red blocks and the row seams can alternate up then down on each row.
3. Now measure across the top row of blocks (it should be 37 1/2 inches). Cut two borders measuring 6 1/2″ x 37 1/2″ out of the brown fabric with snowflakes and two smaller borders measuring 3″ x 37 1/2″ out of the brown polka dot fabric.
4. Cut two pieces of Red Jumbo Ric Rac measuring 40.” This will allow for any fraying that can be trimmed off later.
5. Baste Ric Rac in place, making sure to line up Ric Rac so that when you baste it onto the fabric, the stitching line will barely cross over the curves in the Ric Rac. Trim off the tops of the Ric Rac as seen in picture.
6. Place smaller binding on top of the Ric Rac with right sides together. Sew seams using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams toward the darker fabric making sure the Ric Rac lays on top of the polka dot fabric. Repeat for both bottom borders.

7. Take the two finished borders and sew one to the top of the quilt and the other one to the bottom of the quilt using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam toward the brown polka dot fabric.

Part Five:
Attaching the Numbers
I used 4 different colors of Moda Wool but you are NOT limited to using wool if you don’t have access to wool in your area. You may use any leftover layer cake squares to make the numbers in place of the wool.
I used a heavy duty Heat N’ Bond for the wool but I would use a lighter weight or medium weight if you decide to use fabric for the numbers. I tried to use the color of wool on each pocket that gave the best contrast. You can do the same if you use fabric. Remember that contrast is important.
To make the numbers, I used my Sizzix Die Cut Machine (an older version) along with a set of number dies (that are no longer available) to cut out the numbers. I realize that most of you won’t have access to a die cut machine so, I’ve included 4 different fonts that are very similar to the dies that I used. I’ve included the numbers in the pdf download file for this pattern. You may also choose to create your own numbers by using any computer program like WORD or PAGES. You will want the numbers to be approximately 1 1/4″ in height.

1. Follow the instructions for using the Heat N’ Bond product especially if you haven’t used it before. In the printer friendly version below, you will see that I’ve already flipped the numbers so you can easily trace the numbers to the paper side of the Heat N’ Bond.
2. Cut around the outside of each number (NOT on the traced line).
3. Press each number(s) with shiny side down on the wrong side of fabric or on either side of the wool.
4. Using sharp scissors now cut out each number on the traced line.
5. Center the number(s) in the middle of the bottom half of the pocket, then press the numbers with your heated iron to activate the Heat N’ Bond.
6. Now it’s ready to take to the Quilter. A special Thank You goes to Kaylene Perry who willingly fit my quilt in to her busy quilting schedule. Kaylene has been my quilter and friend for many years now. Didn’t she do a marvelous job quilting it? I love it!!!
Merry Christmas Everyone!
To CELEBRATE my 50th Birthday. . .
I’m having a giveaway!
So, if you want to play along visit me HERE.
See You There!

1 Advent Pocket Quilt