All Good Gifts Quilt


Hello.  Cindy Sharp from Tops to Treasures here again.  I am excited about this quilt for a number of reasons, but mostly because its inspiration stemmed from the loving heart of my oldest son.  Each step along the way was marked by the love of someone offering a good gift.

Good gift #1:  Each person my son meets becomes a candidate for a quilt from mom. Really, he  has no qualms about asking me to make one.  I’ve made them for coaches, room mates, and class fund raisers. This time he asked me to make one for a pregnant friend.

Good gift #2:  I was visiting with the ladies in the sample room at Moda and they suggested this line of fabric. “Mixed Bag” by Studio M is fun and funky, AND comes in brushed cotton….perfect for a snuggly baby quilt. Chelair tossed me a fat quarter stack and said “Send us the pattern when it is done!”

Good gift #3:  I started Tops to Treasures in 2006 as a long arm quilting business.  It pays for my quilty habit and helps my boys with college expenses.  Sometimes I let my friends come and use the machine for the cost of the materials.  (Honestly I love having company during the day.)  Jeanne was not satisfied with that arrangement.  Her solution….minion labor!! Jeanne volunteered to trade piecing for long arm time.  I’ve seen her piecing…not going to turn that offer down.  (Thank you my friend for piecing this quilt for me.)

So it went….one good gift leading to another.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

The horrible truth is that I am a bit of an OCDC geek.  I love things to be orderly and in order.  It makes me happy to see books arranged by subject and author on my shelf, earrings neatly paired in little cubbies, my Lego blocks sorted by size and color, directions that are explicit and precise, you get where I’m going.

The opportunity to make a rainbow quilt makes me “Happy, happy, happy!”  just like the fabrics that inspired my design, Mixed Bag by Studio M. 

All Good Gifts is a simple quilt made of 42, 8″ x 8″ finished blocks, set in a lattice of 2″ sashing with corner stones.  The construction is straight forward and requires no special tools, or skills.  The challenge lies in the selection and placement of color.  With Roy G. Biv helping us, this should not be a problem.

The most challenging aspect of this quilt is the placement of colors.  The picture below assigns a number to each diagonal row.  All of the blocks in each row are identical.  Use these row numbers and reference the following chart to determine how much fabric you need.

There is enough fabric in a fat quarter stack to make the blocks of this quilt; however, you need to purchase an extra fat quarter for the frame in each row that has more than 5 blocks. (Specifically, rows 1 and 2.  They each have 6 blocks.)

In my quilt I chose to repeat the frame fabric used in row 1 (a long row) in rows 4, 9, and 12.  This required additional yardage as well. 

When making your fabric selections the following information is helpful:

  • There are 12 diagonal rows –
    • 12 different colors for centers – choose bright or deep tones.
      • You can repeat colors like I did – it uses less fabric or choose 12 different ones….just keep them in rainbow order. That is where my friend Mr. Roy G. Biv comes in. (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.)  I put red in the middle and worked out from both sides to blue.
      • You can cut 16 centers from one fat quarter
    • 12 different colors for frames – choose prints that help to blend from one center color to the next. 
      • I repeated a the multi on white.  Because it has most of the colors in it, transition is natural.  You don’t have to do that…I was just being lazy. 
      • You can cut  5 sets of frame pieces from one fat quarter
      • Rows 1 & 2 require 1/4 yard extra to cut all of the frame pieces.

Yardage Required
What I used
Blocks

FQ Stack *
*additional yardage needed for rows with more than 5 blocks
Mixed Bag by Studio M

Frames*

1/4 yd (row 1)
1/4 yd (row 2)
1/4 yd for duplicate frames

(rows 9, 12)
SKU#32860-11
SKU#32865-19
SKU#32860-11

 

Setting Squares
½ yd
SKU#32862-18 
Sashing
1 3/4 yds
SKU#9900-97 
Border
1 ½ yds
SKU#32865-19 
Binding
1 yd
SKU#32862-18 
Backing
5 1/4 yds
 

12 sandwich sized zip lock baggies

One very happy, 76″ x 86″ rainbow quilt to snuggle under or gift to someone you love.

Cutting Directions:

Before you begin cutting, it may be helpful to create a “swatch page” for your project.   I’ve created a page for you, it lists all of the pieces you need to cut (just like the cutting chart) plus it has a column for swatches.  Print this file Swatch Page with my compliments.  In the column headed “SWATCH” cut and paste a small sample of the fabrics you want to use for that row.  It will help keep everything organized – (read – this is so you know what you are doing when you finally get back to cutting out the project after the finishing 101 things that draw you away from your favorite hobby) 

  • Blocks
    • Cut the pieces for the blocks in each row as outlined in the chart below.
    • I highly recommend that you keep your pieces segregated in zip lock baggies.  One baggie for each row.
    • Centers –
      • Cutting a 4 1/2″ x 18″ strip from a fat quarter will yield 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares
      • For rows with more than 4 blocks, cut 2, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strips.
    • Frames –
      • Cutting a 2 1/2″ x 18″ strip from a fat quarter will yield
        • 2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for top and bottom OR
        • 4, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for sides
      • For 5 complete frames
        • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from a fat quarter
        • Sub-cut 3 strips into4, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each, for a total of 12rectangles.  (You will have two extra)
        • Sub-cut 5 strips into 2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for a total of 10 rectangles.
Row
# of Blocks
4 ½” x 4 ½”
Centers
8 ½” x 2 ½”
Frame
 Top & Bottom
4 ½” x 2 ½”
Frame Sides
1
6
6
12
12
2
6
6
12
12
3
5
5
10
10
4
4
4
8
8
5
3
3
6
6
6
2
2
4
4
7
1
1
2
2
8
5
5
10
10
9
4
4
8
8
10
3
3
6
6
11
2
2
4
4
12
1
1
2
2

 

  • Setting Squares
    • 56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
      • Cut 4, 2 1/2″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
      • Sub-cut 3 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each for a total of 48 squares
      • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 56.
  • Sashing
    • 97, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles
      • Cut 7, 8 1/2″ x wof strips
      • Sub-cut 6, strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 96 rectangles
      • Cut 1, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle from the remaining strip to complete 97.
  • Border
    • Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips
  • Binding
    • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Break Time!

I sure hope that was better than I am thinking it is.  Right now it is “clear as mud” even to me.  I suspect I am tired from all of that cutting….and maybe you are too.

Clear as mud

Step away from the project.  Have some fun!  Go for a walk.  Clear your head.  That is where I am headed.
Thank you God!  That’s better.  I’ve reread the directions….I think it is the best that I can do.  If, however, you still have trouble understanding what you need to do feel free to contact me at cindy@topstotreasures.com.  I am more than happy to help.

Sewing Directions:

  •  Block – the goal is 42, 8″ x 8″ finished blocks

    •  Use the “Swatch Page” to remind yourself how many of each color to make.
    • To make one block –
      • Gather
        • 1, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ center square
        • 2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ top & bottom rectangles
        • 2, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ edge rectangles

      •  Sew 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ side rectangle to opposite sides of the 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ center square.
      • Iron seam allowance towards the center square
      • Sew 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ top/bottom rectangle to long edges of pieced unit.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the top/bottom rectangles.
      • Trim to 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
    • Repeat process 41 times to complete 42 blocks needed for project.
  •  Sashing
    • Gather
      • 97, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″  sashing rectangles
      • 56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting squares
      • 42, 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ blocks
    • Block Rows
      • Gather
        • 49, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles
        • 42, 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ blocks
      • Sort your blocks into 7 groups of 6 blocks each, one group for each horizontal row of the quilt.
      • Using the Swatch Page row numbers as a reference for color placement (#s designating the diagonal rows in the quilt) your horizontal rows (letters designating) should contain the following blocks:
        • A – 1, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
        • B – 2, 1, 8, 9, 10, 11
        • C – 3, 2, 1, 8, 9, 10
        • D – 4, 3, 2, 1, 8, 9
        • E – 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 8
        • F – 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
        • G – 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2
      • Add 7, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles to each pile.
      • Being careful to keep the blocks in the right order, sew 1 sashing rectangle between each block in the row.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the blocks.
    • Sashing Rows
      • Gather
        • 56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting squares
        • 48, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles
      • Sew 48 sets of 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting square, + 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangle (they will look like matchsticks)
      • Iron seam allowances towards the setting square
      • Sew sets together to make 8 rows of 6 matchsticks each, tail to head.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the setting squares.
      • Sew 1 setting square to the stick end of each row.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the setting squares.
    • Top
      • Gather
        • 8, sashing rows
        • 7, block rows
      • Sew rows together as illustrated in the diagrams.
  • Border
    • Gather
      • Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips
    • Sew 4 sets of 2 strips each together, short edge to short edge.
    • Irons seam allowances open
    • Sew 1 set to each long edge of top.
    • Iron seam allowances towards the border
    • Trim excess
    • Sew 1 set to each short edge of top
    • Iron seam allowances towards the border
    • Trim excess
  • Finish – layer and quilt as desired!
    • I quilted mine in “Going in Circles” by Anne Bright. 
    • I used “Pearl” thread by Signature on the top of my quilt
    • I used “Cleopatra” thread by King Tut/Superior for the back and for the embroidered label.
I would love to see your quilt!  Send me a picture of it when you are done and/or feel free to add it to my Tops to Treasures group on Flickr.

Cindy Sharp
{www.topstotreasures.com}

This Way Up?? Quilt


Hello! This is Margie from Ribbon Candy Quilt Company with an easy, fun project today. Let’s get started.

{Mixed Bag fabrics}

11 Fat Quarters – 3 for the Center diamonds and 8 for the Arrows
¼ yard orange – top block
¼ yard yellow – bottom block
1¾ yard blue for stop border and outer border
⅓ yard each of 4 fabrics for middle border
½ yard orange for binding
4 yards for backing

Here’s what I used:


CUTTING
From each of the 3 fat quarters that you are using for the center diamonds, cut one 12½” x 12½” square

NOTE: Arrows 1-4 point up and arrows 5-8 point down.

For Arrows 1 and 4, cut one 6½” x 8½” rectangle and one 6½” x 6½” square


For Arrows 2 and 3, cut one 8½” x 12½” rectangle and two 6½” x 6½” squares

For Arrows 5 and 8, cut one 6½” x 6½” square and one 6½” x 14½” rectangle


For Arrows 6 and 7, cut one 12½” x 14½” rectangle and two 6½” x 6½” square

PIECING THE ARROWS
Sew Arrow blocks 1 -4 together in a row as shown and press seams to one side.

Sew Bottom Arrows blocks 5 – 8 together in a row as shown and press seams to one side.

Arrow Block sets:

Now to make the Center Diamonds. Place your Center Diamond 12½” x 12½” squares in the order you wish them to appear in your quilt.

Take your Arrow Point  1- 4….6½” x 6½” squares and lay them out as shown above.  Each Center Diamond will have a different fabric in each corner. Using a pencil, draw a diagonal line from point to point on the wrong side of each  6½” x 6½” square.


Line up the raw edges in the top left corner and pin in place.  Sew on the pencil line. Press the Arrow Point square back and trim excess fabric.

Repeat with all top arrow points. Here’s what your Center Diamonds should look like at this point.

We are now going to work on the bottom half of the Diamonds. Lay out the Arrow Points 5 – 8 …. 6½” x 6½” squares as shown. Make sure you have the Arrow Point squares in order or your Arrows will not turn out.

Repeat the process of drawing a diagonal line, sewing on the line, pressing, and trimming as outlined above.

Continue to make your Diamonds and Arrow Points until you have all three Center Diamonds completed.

Sew your Center Diamond blocks together in this order.  Press seams to one side. Layout your Top Arrow Block set and your Center Diamond set. Do you see the Arrows appear? 

Match your seams and pin these sections together. Sew and press seams to one side. The top half is done! Repeat steps to attach the bottom arrow blocks.

BORDERS
For the first border, cut one 8½” x 36½” strip from each of two fabrics.


Sew on the top and bottom borders as shown.  Press seams to one side.

For the second border, cut 5 – 2½” x WOF strips. Set 2 strips aside for top/bottom border. Piece remaining strips end-to-end and cut into 2 strips measuring 50½” long. These are your side borders.

Sew on side borders and press seams. Sew on top and bottom borders and press. At this point the quilt measures 40½”  x 54½”, a great size for a baby, just a thought.)

For the third border, from each 1/3 yard, cut  2 – 6½” x WOF strips. Piece strips together, matching like fabrics. Cut middle borders as follows:

  • Side middle borders measure 6½” x 54½”
  • Top and bottom middle borders are 6½” x 52½”


Sew on side middle borders.  Press seams to border. Sew on top and bottom middle borders.  Press seams to borders.

For the fourth/outer border, cut 8 – 6½” X WOF strips.  Piece strips together end-to-end. Press strip and cut as follows:

  • 2 side outer border strips measuring 6½” x 66½”
  • 2 top/bottom outer border strips measuring 6½” x 64½”

Sew on side outer borders.  Press seams to border. Sew on top and bottom outer borders.  Press seams to border.  DONE!!!

Baste and quilt as desired.  I cut my binding at 2¼” x WOF.  You will need to cut 7 strips for binding.


One Quilt finishes 64½” x 78½”

ENJOY!!!!!

Thanks for stopping by.

Margie Ullery
{ribboncandyquilts.blogspot.com}

Candy Scraps Quilt


Hello all!–I am excited to be sharing another quilt pattern with you here on Moda Bake Shop.  My name is Corey; you will usually find me blogging over at Little Miss Shabby.
I am always drawn to a great scrap quilt–they are probably some of my favorite quilts.  Moda’s mini charm packs are a perfect way to create a scrap quilt.  If you prefer a less scrappy quilt, this quilt could also be made using one regular charm pack and one mini charm pack.  Check out the end of the tutorial to see the quilt made using Mirabelle by Fig Tree Quilts.


*5 Moda Candy packs (I used From Outside In, Ducks in a Row, April Showers, Mixed Bag, & Daydream)
1 White Solid Jelly Roll
2 1/4 yard Linen Mochi Dot Unbleached Linen (32911-11)
3 1/8 yard Backing
1/2 yard Binding (I used April Showers, Teal Stripe, 55083-12)
56″ x 72″ batting

*For a less scrappy version choose one regular charm pack & one Moda Candy pack, cut each 5″ square into (4) 2.5″ squares


(48) 8 1/2″(trim a regular sized piece of paper to the correct size) pieces of copy paper; draw a diagonal line from one corner to another

A variety of 8 wt. Perle Cotton if hand quilting

Cutting Instructions

From the Jelly Roll:
Use 22 strips, cut (192) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles (cut 9 from each strip)

From the Linen cut:
(16) 1 3/4″ x WOF strips; subcut (48) 1 3/4″ x 14″ strips
(7) 6″ x WOF strips; subcut (48) 6″ squares, cut diagonally once to make 96 triangles

Block Construction

~All sewing is done right sides together using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance~
Begin by sewing together the mini charm pack squares in pairs.  You will need a total of 96 pairs.  Press toward the darker fabric.

Sew a 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle onto each side of the units made above as pictured below.  Press to the white.
Center a 1 3/4″ x 14″ linen strip across the unmarked diagonal.  Tip: use a little bit of temp. spray adhesive to keep it in place.
Place a mini charm strip right sides together with the linen strip.  Center as illustrated.  Using a small stitch length, sew the strips together.  You will be sewing the strips onto the paper.  Press away from the center.
Sew another mini charm strip to the other side of the linen strip in the same manner.
Sew a triangle onto each side.  Center as illustrated.  Press away from the center.
Your block should now look like this:
Trim the block even with the 8 1/2″ paper.  Remove the paper to complete the block.
Make a total of (48) 8 1/2″ blocks.
Layout the blocks 6 blocks x 8 blocks.  Sew together, pressing the seams of adjacent rows in opposite directions.
Your quilt top is now complete and you can baste, quilt, and bind using your preferred methods.  For my quilt, I opted to big stitch, hand quilt using a variety of 8 wt. Perle Cotton threads.
A striped binding is the perfect addition to any quilt.
And, of course, as promised here is the quilt using all Mirabelle by Fig Tree Quilts:


One scrappy 48″ x 64″ Candy Scraps Quilt.  Perfect for snuggling under–my kids will attest to this! =)

For other fun quilts, tutorials, quilt alongs, and stitch alongs, visit my blog at Little Miss Shabby.

Corey Yoder
{www.littlemissshabby.com}