Sweet n Shabby Woven Pillow Cover

One Honey Bun – featured Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet
One fat quarter (for backing)
16 inch pillow form
17 inch square of muslin or other fabric
Heat n’ Bond sewable (light) iron on adhesive

buttons, pompoms, chenille, ribbon

Since the pillow we are making is 16 inches, we will cut the backing fabric 17 inches square. I just used whatever white fabric I had available, as it will not show. Use a clear acrylic quilters rule to mark pencil lines 1 to 2″ apart. Both vertically and horizontally. This will be somewhat of a guide to keep you straight and on track as you lay the fabric strips down.

Cut several 1/2″ strips of Heat n’ Bond.

Apply them to the backing fabric with a hot iron, about an inch apart

Pull all the paper strips off, exposing the adhesive (the lower five shiny rows you see above).

Determine how many strips from the honey bun you need for your square. For this size I needed 22 1.5″ wide strips (11 horizontally & 11 vertically). Pick the fabrics you will be using

and cut them into 17 inch lengths. (nip off those white selvage edges first.)

This next picture shows how I start a strip in the middle, one for each direction. For an accurate measure, I just butt strips side by side starting at the edge and leave the one in the middle.

Now you just start weaving strips in one at a time. Pretty much like we did in grade school, but in this case it is easiest if you start in the middle and work your way out. Alternating one horizontal and then one diagonal.
See how I just flop every other strip back to weave in a new strip? Then lay them back down and go do the same thing on the other side. When you complete the first corner, you might want to carefully slide it onto the ironing board for a quick press of the finished area (I used a large cutting mat to transport it) and then put it back on the worktable to complete the weaving.

When you get to an end piece it’s helpful to pin back the strips that you are weaving under.

When the entire square is satisfactorily woven, go to the ironing board and press the piece well. Except for every other little end piece flapping loosely, it’s relatively secure at this point, but I would suggest you sew up and down each edge for added security (You will see I did that in the next photo). If you are adding a fabric silhouette piece, do so now. It’s easiest if you back a contrasting fabric with the iron on adhesive, cut out your shape, iron it down, then stitch around it.
If you are adding pompom trim to the edge, do so now. For beginning sewers who haven’t yet added trim like this, I’ll give a quickie lesson. Lay the pompom trim down with the poms facing inward as shown, butting the edge of the trim to the raw edge of the right side of your woven pillow top. Then sew a half inch seam all around. I like to sew in a little curve around each corner, rather than turning a sharp 90degree angle at each corner.

(Remember to note in the above photo how I sewed up and down each raw edged strip).

Now take your 18×22 fat quarter, trim it to 17×22, and cut in half so that you have two pieces that each measure 17×11. On one long side of each of those do a scant hem running the 17″ direction. (I fold over once, press, then zigzag stitch). Pin each of these two rectangles to your pillow front, right sides together, hemmed edges toward the center, and corners matching (I flapped up one end to illustrate the overlap you will have)
Now sew around all four sides, and turn your pillow cover right sides out. A lot of people might choose to just stitch a 17×17 backing square most of the way around, leave a little opening, turn right sides out, fill with stuffing and whip stitch the opening closed, but this way you can easily remove the pillow insert and wash the cover as needed.

Make small marks on both sides of the pillow back, for two ribbon closures as shown.
I cut four equal lengths of ribbon, six or seven inches long. With each of the four pieces, place an end on the marked spot with the right side of the ribbon down as shown, stitch back and forth 2 or 3 times,
Then, without taking the piece from the machine, leave the needle in the down position in the fabric, raise the machine foot, flip the ribbon over right side up, and stitch back and forth over the ribbon 2 or 3 times again.

Don’t you agree this is a nicer way to finish a pillow? I thought you would!

The sweet shabbiness happens after you wash it a time or two.

When I pulled this out of the dryer I had to cut off a lot of threads that had unraveled from the raw edges, but because Moda uses a mini zigzag cut on the edges(they think of everything!) it is really quite minimal. Just the right amount of ‘fuzziness’, in my opinion.

I really had such fun making this and kept having ideas for other ways to decorate it so I had to immediately make a second one. I remembered I had some of this instant *chenille* that I’d bought several years ago.

(You can find it here and there online if you google “Chenille-It”)

I did not stitch down each side of each strip as I did above, I just laid two strip of the chenille tape (double layer for extra fluffiness) down over each strip edge and sewed down the center as shown in this next picture

Then, as you can see, I thought about putting pom poms at each or every other intersection, but ultimately I decided to add buttons.

I think for this option to really work you want to have a wide variety of buttons. A real “Grandma’s stash” assortment. 🙂

The *magic* happens with this chenille after a machine wash and dry.

I can’t say it was “fun” sewing down 100 buttons through all the layers, but I am glad that I did it. 🙂

Well, now I have TWO very similar pillows, so I think I’ll give the bird and pompoms one away to someone. Come leave a comment on the pillow post at my blog and it might be to YOU! WINNER HAS BEEN DRAWN. THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO CAME AND COMMENTED!

Two pillows with a fair amount of leftover strips and pieces for another project on another day.

Triple Irish Flower Quilt

EDIT: September 3, 2009 Many people ask about making this quilt larger. It is based on a Triple Irish Chain quilt from the book, Time for a Chain by Nancy J. Smith & Lynda S. Milligan by POSSIBILITIES. It is available on Amazon.com and has all sizes for quilts, and strip widths…It is the best I have found for Irish Chain quilts! 
This is a modified Triple Irish Chain, based on a quilt I made a few years ago. The pink Irish Chain in the next photo is a reproduction of an antique quilt. The antique quilt was made with 1930’s fabrics and rose colored flowers. The borders were the left over strips sewn on the bias, the original was beautiful.

~~One Honey Bun roll, I used 1930 Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet, any line would be great!
~~1 1/3 yard Moda Snow Bella solid (white) edit: not Moda Snow, use Moda White

~~1/4 yard Moda Christmas Red Bella solid, or any solid color you would like your flowers!

~~ 1-1 1/2″ strip of solid yellow (the 1930 Hello Betty Honey Bun has one strip)

~~1/3 yard Chloe’s Closet fabric for binding

Snow white fabric: Cut 6 strips 5 1/2″ width of fabric
Cut 2 strips 3 1/2″ width of fabric
Cut 3 strips 1 1/2″ width of fabric
From the 5 1/2″ strips, cut 12-5 1/2″ squares, set aside.

Yellow fabric: Cut 1 strip 1 1/2″ width of fabric, or use the one strips from the Honey Bun

Red fabric: Cut 5 strips 1 1/2″ width of fabric

Binding fabric: Cut 5 strips 2 1/2″ width of fabric, sew together end to end

Red, white and yellow strips.

White 51/2″ squares.
SEWING: All seams are 1/4″

Choose 25 colors from the Honey Bun, I didn’t use any solid colors, only the prints.

You will be sewing the strips together on the long sides the full width of the fabric. These strips sets are lettered. It may be helpful to color on graph paper the placement of the strips, then you can letter them.

1. This is set “A” It is three print strips, one white, and three prints. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
2. This is set “B” It is seven print strips. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
3. This is set “C” It is two print strips, three red strips, two print strips. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
4. This is set “D” It is one white strip, one print, one red, one yellow, one red, one print, and one white strip. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
5. This is set “E” It is one print strip, one 3 1/2″ white strip, one print strip. Make one set. Press all seams one way.

6. This is set “F” It is two print strips, one 3 1/2″ white strip, two print strips. Make one set. Press all seams one way.
Now you will cross cut these lettered sets into 1 1/2″ strips.

From set A: Cut 26-1 1/2″ strips
From set B: Cut 26- 1 1/2″ strips
From set C: Cut 26- 1 1/2″ strips
From set D: Cut 13- 1 1/2″ strips
From set E: Cut 24- 1 1/2″ strips
From set F: Cut 24- 1 1/2″ strips
Now you will sew these 1 1/2″ strips together to make two blocks: The flower block, and the white block.
1. This is the flower block. Make 13 blocks. Press all seams one way.
These are the letters of the strips for the flower block:
2. This is the starting of the white block. Make 12 blocks. Press all seams one way.

These are the letters of the strips for the white block:

E—3 1/2″ white strip—E
3. For the final part of the white block sew “F” strips to the sides. Continue for all 12 blocks. Press all seams all one way.
These are the letters of the strips for finishing the white block:
F—-3 1/2″ white strip—F
4. Now you will set the blocks into rows, alternating flower blocks with the white blocks as below starting with the flower block, five blocks across and five blocks down.
Every other row starts with a flower block. This is now the CENTER. Press well. I like to spray lightly with starch on the front as I press.
5. Sew remaining 5 1/2″ white strips together end to end for borders. Measure the CENTER side to side. Cut 2 strips that measurement and sew border strips to top and bottom of CENTER. Press seams toward borders.6. Measure the CENTER length. Cut 2 white strips that measurement and sew to sides of CENTER for borders. Press seams toward borders.
7. Quilt, bind and enjoy.

I used a piece of Picket Fence from Chloe’s Closet that I had on hand for the binding. You could use a solid red, or a piece from the line of fabric.

One darling baby quilt, or Summer table topper!

Finished size 45″ x 45″

Betty’s Baby Bowtie Quilt

One charm pack of Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet for Moda
1/2 yard Bella Solid Ivory (sku 9900-60) block background
3/4 yard Bella Solid Betty Pink (sku 9900-120) alternating blocks
1/3 yard Bella Solid Betty Green (sku 9900-121) binding
1 yard backing, batting 36 x 44

Select 32 charm squares from your Hello Betty Charm Pack. From each square cut (2) 2 1/2 inch squares and (2) 1 1/2 inch squares

Cut (64) 2 1/2 inch ivory squares
Cut (31) 4 1/2 inch pink setting squares

For each bowtie block you will need (2) 2 1/2 inch and (2) 1 1/2 inch bowtie squares and (2) 2 1/2 inch ivory squares
Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each of the 1 1/2 inch squares

Place a small square on each of the 2 1/2 inch background squares and sew on the line. These are your knot units.

Sew your block together as shown :

Press center seam open if desired, for a flat center

Make 31 more blocks! They’re super fast. Set in 9 rows of 7 blocks alternating bows and pink setting blocks, using completed quilt as a guide. Layer and quilt as desired. This old fashioned quilt is perfect for grid quilting (on sample) or meandering! Bind with Betty Green Solid and enjoy!

Press towards the knot and cut away the back of the knot fabric in the middle, leaving the background piece.

One very cute old fashioned looking bowtie quilt 28 x 36 inches.

Betty’s Baby Bowtie Quilt by PamKittyMorning

Quilted Nap Sack with Layer Cakes

1 Layer Cake or 30 squares (10″ x 10″) – Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet is featured
2 1/4 yards of coordinating fabric for sashing, binding, and pillow
4 yards of coordinating fabric for inside napsack and pillow.
1 Twin Size batting (I used Kyoto Bamboo Blend Batting by Luna – Quilt batting by Moda)
1 12 x 16 pillow form
1 3/4 yards of 7/8″ Grosgrain ribbon in a coordinating color.
Snap Kit (need 2 snaps)
Coordinating Thread
Fray Check by Dritz

Mettler Cordonnet thread in a coordinating color

Step One:
Gather all your ingredients together.

Step Two:
For the back of the nap sack, lay out 18 of your layer cake squares – 3 across and 6 down
For the Front (cover) of the nap sack, lay out 12 of your layer cake squares – 3 across and 4 down.
Step Three:
From the coordinating fabric for the Sashing, cut the following:
9 strips that measure 2 1/2″ x 33″
20 strips that measure 2 1/2″ x 10″
Step Four:
Sew the 10″ strips in between each of the 10″ squares in each row. (2 strips for each row)
Step Five:
Sew the 33″ strips between each row and above the top row of the cover of the nap sack.

Step Six:
The back and cover should now look something like this. Align the back and the cover from the bottom up. The sashings on the cover should all meet up with the sashings on the back.

Step Seven:
With right sides together, pin and sew one of the sides together. It doesn’t matter which side.

Step Eight:
Open and press all the seams down.
Step Nine:
From the 4 yards of coordinating fabric for the inside of the nap sack, cut the four yards in half creating 2 – 2 yard pieces.
Step Ten:
Match the right sides together at the selvages and sew together using a 1/2″ seam allowance. You are creating the inside of the nap sack. Once the selvages are sewn together you should have a large piece of fabric that measures approx. 2 yds x 2 1/2 yds with a seam down the middle.

Step Eleven:
Lay out the inside fabric face down on an area large enough. I like to use my carpeted floor because I can pin the fabric down into the carpet. Pin or tape (if on hard surface) your fabric down tight so there are no wrinkles or creases in the fabric.

Step Twelve:
Layout your batting on top of the wrong side of your inside fabric. Then lay the pieced fabric on top of the batting right side up creating a sandwich effect. The middle seam of your pieced fabric should line up with the seam of your inside fabric. This will become the seam that you fold your nap sack on.

Step Thirteen:
Safety Pin all three pieces together so there is no shifting or bunching when you quilt it.

Step Fourteen:
Quilt your nap sack however you desire. I used the Mettler Cordonnet thread in a teal color and stitched just on the inside of both sides of the sashing.

Be sure to refer to your sewing machine manual for what they suggest when using a thicker thread like Mettler Cordonnet. You may need to adjust your tension just a bit. I used it as both the top and bobbin thread, which in the future I may just use regular thread in the bobbin and the the decorative Cordonnet thread as the top thread for smoother sewing.

To finish it off, I tied off the nap sack in the center of every square with the Mettler Cordonnet. You can then trim off all the excess fabric using the pieced layer as your guide.
Save the large scrap piece for your pillow center.
Step Fifteen:
For the pillow you will need to cut the following…
From the inside fabric, Cut:
1 – 12″ x 16″ rectangle for pillow center
(use your large left over scrap piece that was cut away after quilting.)
From the coordinating fabric for the sashing, binding, and pillow, Cut:
1 – 2 1/2″ x 20″ strip for pillow flange
2 – 2 1/2″ x 12″ strips for pillow flange
1 – 3 1/2″ x 40 1/2″ strip for pillow flange
1 – 18″ x 20″ rectangle for pillow back
Sew the two 2 1/2″ x 12″ strips to the pillow center as shown below. Press seams.
Step Sixteen:
Sew the 2 1/2″ x 20″ strip to the bottom of the pillow cover.

Step Seventeen:
Take the 3 1/2″ x 40 1/2″ strip and match the ends and with sew right sides together.

Step Eighteen:
Flip the strip right side out and press. The seam should be at the end of the strip. Pin and sew the reversible strip to the top of the pillow. Press.

Your pillow front should now look like this from the right side…

and like this from the back side…

Step Nineteen:
Take the 18″ x 20″ rectangle for pillow back and fold and press the top of the fabric down towards the wrong side of the fabric about 1″, then fold down and press at about 2″. Sew about an 1/8″ on either side of the rolled hem.

Step Twenty:
Lay the back of the pillow face up and then place the top of the pillow face down matching the bottom and sides.

The pillow top will be slightly longer than the pillow back so that when stitched down to the nap sack you can still slip the pillow form in and out for easy washing.
Pin and stitch the sides and bottom of the pillow together. DO NOT SEW THE OPENING AT THE TOP.

Step Twenty One:
Snip the corners for a clean point and turn the pillow cover right side out. Press.

Step Twenty Two:
Stitch about 1/8″ outside the pillow center to create a pillow flange. Do not sew the top closed. Only create a pillow flange on the sides and bottom of the pillow.
Step Twenty Three:
Center the pillow cover to the top of the nap sack. Pin and sew the pillow top to the top of the nap sack using a 1/8″ seam allowance.
Step Twenty Four:
Cut 7 -2 1/2″ x WOF (width of fabric) strips for binding from the same fabric you used for the sashing. Create your binding and bind your napsack as if you were binding a quilt. Sew the binding all the way around the edges of the napsack. Be sure to only sew the top of the pillow into the binding.

Step Twenty Five:
Cut two pieces of your coordinating ribbon each one measuring 30″ long. Fold each ribbon in half.
Apply Fray Check to the ends of the ribbons to prevent fraying.

Step Twenty Six:

Fold the nap sack so that the bottom edges match with right sides together. Pin the nap sack along the bottom and up the side just to the second sashing.

Place the folded end of the ribbon in between the two layers creating a “sandwich”. Each ribbon should be centered on the sashings and the loose ends of the ribbon should be inside the napsack. Pin.

Step Twenty Seven:
Sew along the bottom of the nap sack and up the side until you get to the top of the second sashing. With your needle down turn the foot so it angles off the end of the napsack to close off the seam. I like to backstitch a few times over the ribbon ends and at the angle off the end for reinforcement.

Step Twenty Eight:

Turn the nap sack right side out. The ribbon ends should now be hanging out towards the bottom of the nap sack.

Step Twenty Nine:
Following the instructions for your snaps, attach the snaps to the ends of the ribbon. These will be used when the nap sack is rolled up for easy toting. You may need to roll up the napsack when attaching the snaps to see exactly how the snaps need to be attached so that it closes properly.

Step Thirty:
Insert your pillow form in the back of the pillow.
DONE! Now a happy kid has a cool nap sack to take to sleepovers.

To roll up the nap sack, start at the pillow rolling the pillow into the nap sack until you reach the end. Use the ribbon snaps to close it up and carry along.

Makes 1 nap sack for stylish sleeping.
Add an applique’ letter or other applique’ image to the pillow cover for a little personality.