Charming Book Cover




Hi! Hi!  This is Aubrey from Maubys here with my very first post for the Moda Bake Shop!  I am so excited to be cooking with all of you today and hope you enjoy this recipe.  

Here is a little something to spice up those brown paper book covers.  Making them a little less…well brown.  

Book to be covered.

Measuring Tape.

Charm Pack.

Backing fabric to coordinate with charm pack (needs to measure at least 10″ wider than the book width and 2-1/2″ longer than the book length), muslin is also a good option.

Thread.

Pins.




1.  Measure the complete width of the book to be covered by starting at the the back left side and wrapping the tape measure around the book. 

2.  Measure the length of the book.

3. Determine the number of charm squares you will need based on your measurements and then add 2 more charm squares to the width of the book and 1 more charm square to the length. 

The book in the picture measured 17-1/2″ in width and 9-1/2″ in length.  

So I needed 4 squares to equal the initial width plus 2 squares for the end total.  

And then I needed 2 squares to equal the length of the book plus 1 square for the end total.

My final amount was 6 charm squares across by 3 charm squares down for a total of 18 squares.


4.  Sew all your squares together with 1/4″ seam allowance.  The easiest way to do this is to sew the greater number of squares together into rows and then sew the rows together, lining up the seams to create a patchwork cover. 

5.  The sewn together squares should be as close as possible to 10″ wider than the book measurement.

And the length should be as close as possible to 5″ longer than the book measurement.


6.  Measure 1-3/4″ in along the widthwise edge of each side and draw a line. 

7.  Fold the widthwise edge in to meet the line just drawn and press. 


8. Lay the patchwork top on the backing fabric, right sides together.  

If you have not cut the backing fabric to fit the measurements yet, then cut it to match the patchwork top.  

Pin and sew the just folded patchwork top along both widthwise edges to the backing fabric with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  

Sew one lengthwise edge from top to bottom with a 5/8″ seam allowance.  Sew the opposite lengthwise edge from top to middle, then stop and leave a 2-3″ turning gap unsewn, then sew from the end of the gap to the bottom of the edge.  



9.  Turn book cover right side out through turning gap.  Push out all corners and press.  Sew the lengthwise edges with a 1/8″ edge stitch.


10.  Place book on top of the top of the cover, center book on the very center of the cover both widthwise and lengthwise.  

Fold cover over the book so that that all edges meet. 

11.  Fold the top edge under the book cover and pin at the lengthwise edge creating a book “sleeve”. 


Carefully remove the cover from the book keeping the “sleeve” and pins in place.  Add pins along the lengthwise edge.


12.  Sew along the edge creating a sleeve.  This is a little tricky, you want to sew a straight line along the widthwise edge in the exact place where you pinned the “sleeve” while it was on the book.  You can wing it or draw a line after pinning the rest of the sleeve edge down.  

I’ll be honest…I winged it and it turned out fine.  I lined up the pin with the stitch line on my sewing foot and looked at the seam guide to determine the seam allowance, then I just sewed the edges with that seam allowance.    



13.  Put sleeve just created on the top of the book and wrap cover around book again. Create “sleeve” on the opposite side following the previous “sleeve” steps.



 14.  Turn “sleeves” right side out.  Push out corners and sides and press. 


15.  Sew the edges in between the sleeves with a decorative stitch, securing the edges together.  



16. Now put the cover on the book just like you would with a paper bag cover, one sleeve at a time. Close the book and tada!  A beautiful cover that can be removed and washed!  Now I am off to cover ALL my books! How about you? 


1 or 2 book covers depending on the size of your book.

Great for school books, cookbooks, or books you want to fancy up a bit!

Make some for each Holiday too!

Aubrey Schwartz
{Maubys}

Gym Dandy Bag

Thanks for checking out my project.  This is my fourth Bake Shop post and I couldn’t be more excited.  What an honor to be part of this talented group of designers.

In addition to designing patterns for bags, quilts, runners, and wool felt projects, I also own Prairie Point Junction quilt shop in Cozad, Nebraska.  Be sure to stop by and visit us if you happen to be traveling across Nebraska. You can find us online at http://www.prairiepointjunction.com/ or on my Prairie Ramblings blog at http://www.woolfeltcentral.blogspot.com/.

This handy little bag is perfect for transporting clothes to and from the gym  – or especially for kids to take gym clothes back and forth between home and school.  It is lined with PUL, a water resistant fabric, to keep the rest of the things you’re carrying along all nice and tidy.  The bag also works great for wet swimsuits! 

I’ve tried to make the tutorial pretty detailed so that even a novice sewer can accomplish this project with great success.  Don’t let the zipper scare you away  –  I’ll show you just how easy it is.

Happy sewing,

Julie

  • 1 Fandango Charm Pack (will need at least 21 charms)
  • 1/2 yard Fandango (27050-11) for bag top and handles
  • 1/2 yard PUL  –  water resistant fabric
  • 14″ zipper
  • 505 Temporary Basting Spray
  • thread to match fabric for bag top and handles
 
Choose 21 charm squares for patchwork.

Cut each into two 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ pieces.
From the 1/2 yard for bag top and handles cut:
(2) 3″ x 36″ pieces for handles
(2) 4 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ pieces for tote bag top
(2) 5″ x 14 1/2″ pieces for bag facing
(1) 1 1/2″ x 4″ piece for zipper tabs
From the PUL fabric cut:
(2) 14 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ pieces for tote bag lining
Now that the cutting is out of the way, you’re ready to get down to the business of sewing your bag.
First, we’ll sew the patchwork for the bag bottom:
Arrange the 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles cut from the charm pack in rows of 7 rectangles each.  You’ll need a total of 6 rows  –  3 for the bag front and 3 for the bag back.  In my pictures below, I just show three rows.  There’s no magic formula for arranging the rectangles, just do whatever you like.  Mostly the only thing I shoot for is making sure that the same colors/prints are not side by side. 
Start sewing the rectangles together into rows.  I like to save time when I can, so I chain piece my rectangles together.  To get started, pair the rectangles (in column two) right sides together with the rectangles in column 1.   Sew each together, but keep sewing when you get to the end of each set, “chaining” the sets together like little sausage links.

Now, take your chain over to your ironing board.  Keep them all chained together  –  resist the urge to cut them apart!
Press the seams for each row in opposite directions.  This will help your seams nest together when you join the rows and will help you line those seams up perfectly. 
Don’t cut that chain apart yet . . . .  Head back over to your sewing machine.
Pick up the pieces from column three.  Sew each piece to the appropriate row in your chain.  Keep on chaining those pieces together.  Take them over to the ironing board.  Press seams in opposite direction.
Repeat with each column until you’ve sewn the rectangles into 6 rows of 7 rectangles each.  I’ve just shown three rows below.

Join three rows together to form the bag front. Then join three rows together for the back of the bag.  Remember how you carefully pressed the seams in each row in opposite directions?  That’s going to come in handy now.  Your seams should just nest right beside each other to help you perfectly line up where seams intersect.  I find that I don’t usually even have to pin the seam at this point since everything matches so nicely.  But that’s just me  –  feel free to pin if you like.

Press the seams for the bag front up –  and the seams on the bag back down.  That will help the seams nest when you join the sides together later.

Whew,  now it’s starting to look a little more like something, right?

Prepare the handles for the bag.  Fold the 3″ x 36″ rectangle in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.  Press.

Open the strip and bring the raw edges together to meet at the center fold.  Press.

Fold strip in half lengthwise again and press.

Topstitch close to both sides of the handle.

Place raw ends of handle along the top edge of the bag front.  Position the edge of handle along the seam between the 2nd and 3rd rectangle in the top row.  See the picture below for placement suggestion.  Be sure that your handle lays flat and doesn’t have any twists in it from one side to the other.  Baste the handle in place.  Repeat on the bag back.

Sew the 4 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ bag top section to the pieced bag bottom, catching the raw edge of the handle in the seam.  Be sure to keep the loop of the handle out of the way of your stitching.

Press towards bag bottom, flip handle upwards.

Topstitch next to the seam on the patchwork section.
Next we’re going to apply the PUL to the back of the bag sections.  {PUL} stands for polyurethane laminated fabric.  It is designed to be water resistant.  Here are few tips for sewing with PUL that will make sewing much easier:
  • The slick side of the PUL is the right side, the knit side of the PUL is the wrong side.
  • Be sure to keep any pins within the seam allowance of the PUL fabric to avoid piercing the fabric and compromising the water resistant nature of the fabric.
  • Do NOT directly iron the PUL fabric.  It can melt and cause a huge mess.
  • Sew with PUL fabric on the bottom layer, when possible.
  • When sewing with two layers of PUL, it may be helpful to place a layer of tissue paper on top of the PUL fabric.
  • Lengthen stitches slightly and use a walking foot, if available.
Now that we have that out of the way, we can carry on  . . .
Put some newspaper or other scrap paper on your floor or cutting table to protect the surface from overspray.
Lay the 14 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ piece of PUL on the paper with the knit side UP and the slick side DOWN.
Spray lightly with 505 brand temporary basting spray.
Lay the bag front wrong sides UP on another piece of paper,  Be sure to keep handles tucked under the bag.  Lightly spray with basting spray.  By spraying both the bag and the PUL, you’ll create a better bond to hold the pieces in place for sewing.
Very carefully lay the knit side of PUL on the wrong side of the outer bag, matching up raw edges.  Smooth out wrinkles as best as you can.
Baste a very scant 1/4″ around entire bag to hold layers together.  Be sure to keep your basting within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t pierce the PUL beyond the seam allowance.
Repeat with bag back.
Prepare the facing next.
Finish one edge of the 5″ x 14 1/2″ facing piece.  Fold under a scant 1/4″, along one raw 14 1/2″ edge, press.  Fold under 1/4″ again, press.  Topstitch close to folded edge.   Repeat on second facing piece.

The next steps will prepare the zipper.  A zipper  –  EEEK  –  you say?  No worries, this zipper method is easy peasy.  You’ll wonder why you’ve never done a zipper before.

Prepare a tab for the zipper ends.  This will be just like making a “binding” for the end of the zipper.  It does away with all that funky little bulky business of the zipper stop that can create tons of problems for the zipper-phobic crowd.

We’re going to follow the same basic steps that we used for the handle above.  First fold the 1 1/2″ x 4″ fabric for the zipper tab in half lenthwise with the wrong sides together.  Press

Now, unfold the strip, and fold the raw edges in to meet at the center crease.  Press.

Now, fold one more time and press.

Grab your zipper.  Open it just a few inches.  Sew the ends of the zipper together so they’ll stay where you want them later.  (Sorry I changed zipper colors on you for a few pictures.  I got a little carried away sewing and forgot to take pictures, so had to back-track.)

Trim off the zipper stop at the end of the zipper.

Tuck the basted end of the zipper into the binding strip you created.  Topstitch along the edge of the binding strip, catching the zipper in the binding. 
Trim the binding strip even with the edges of the zipper.

Cut the zipper down to 13 1/2″.  Tuck the raw end of the zipper into the remainder of the binding strip.  Topstitch along edge of binding strip.  Trim binding strip even with edges of zipper.

Position the zipper right sides down on the bag front, centering along the width.  The zipper should be 1/2″ shorter on each side than the width of the bag.  That’s O.K.!  This will accomodate for the width of the seam allowance and a little bit of extra bulk to boot.

Carefully pin the zipper to the bag, making sure to keep any pins within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t puncture the PUL. 

Baste a scant 1/4″ from edge of zipper.  You can either use a zipper foot for this step, or can actually use your regular sewing foot  –  BUT  –  it will be helpful to move your needle position clear over to the far left.  (Be absolutely sure you are using a sewing foot with a wide opening  –  NOT a 1/4″ foot, or you’ll break your needle).

Layer the raw edge of the facing piece right sides together with the bag front, catching the zipper between the layers.  Sew facing to bag using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  I find it easiest to sew from the wrong side of the outer bag.  That way I can see where my basting stitches were and can make sure that I am sewing a deep enough seam to encase them.

Fold the facing to the inside of the bag.  Now, if you are super careful, you can do just a tiny bit of pressing here.  Use a cool iron and very carefully, press the seam ONLY along the zipper.  Do NOT touch the PUL with your iron.
Lay the bag back right sides up on your table.  Align the raw edge of the zipper, right sides together with the bag back.  (The right sides of the bag front and back will be touching).  Stitch a scant 1/4″ seam allowance to attach the zipper to the bag back.
Layer the raw edge of the remaining facing piece right sides together with basted edge of the zipper.  Sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Fold the facing to the inside of the bag.  You can gently press here just a little bit again.
Topstitch close to the zipper tape along the seam.  You can either use a zipper foot for this step, or you can move your needle position all the way to the right.
Here’s what your bag should look like now:
Now it gets just a tad bit tricky.  The next step looks a little strange, but stay with me here, it really does work. 
First of all, be sure to OPEN your zipper  BEFORE proceeding.  If you don’t, you’ll sew your bag all the way shut and won’t be able to turn it inside out without ripping open your seam allowance that you just worked so hard to sew.
Now, repeat after me,  “OPEN your zipper BEFORE proceeding.”  You can thank me later . . .
Fold the bag in half right sides together.  Here’s the strange part . . .  Fold the facing section up. 
Very carefully pin around the sides and bottom of bag, being sure to keep all your pins within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t pierce the PUL.

Sew the side and bottom seams of the bag, including the facing section, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. 
To finish the seams, use a wide zig zag to encase the raw edges.
Turn bag right sides out.  Fold the facing down inside the bag.
Now, put on your running shoes and take a lap around the block.  You’ve finished your Gym Dandy Bag.
1 Handy Gym Dandy Bag
Thanks for sticking with me through this tutorial.  Need supplies?  Be sure to visit my website at http://www.prairiepointjunction.com/
Julie Geiger

Fandango Clams

Kate Spain has created a magical blend of vibrant colours that I have put together to make a small quilt. When I designed this piece,  I imagined dancing by the sea on a warm Spanish night.


All fabrics are from the Fandango collection by Kate Spain

  • One Fandango charm pack from MODA by Kate Spain
  • 1 1/2 yards ( 27050 11)  Pie Casing 2 and borders
  • 1/2 yard (27046 22)  Pie Casing 1
  • 1 1/2 yards ( 27050 21) for backing – 44″ wide
  • 1/4 yard (27051 21) for peeper border
  • 1/2 yard (27052 23) for binding 
  • Wadding (batting) at least 4″ wider and longer than finished quilt top.
  • Neutral thread for piecing
  • 28mm rotary cutter
  • 4″ drunkard path template set
  • Optional – Curve Master foot, wooden roller, tweezers
Fabric Selection


Step 1 –  Rotary cut from charm pack 84 ‘pies’. For the spare, cut 5″ squares from binding fabric

Pie and Pie Casing
Two (2) pies can be cut from one charm square

Step 2 – Rotary Cut from Pie Casing 2 fabric,  59 ‘Pie cases’ and from Pie Casing 1 fabric,  26 ‘Pie Cases’



Step 3 – Select 26 pieces from the ‘Pie’ pile to accompany the ‘Pie Cases 1’. Make 26 blocks. Press the seam inward with wooden roller and then press on right side with dry iron.

My choice of handy tools for curved piecing
Blocks should measure 4 1/2″: finished. I use a roller and dry iron to press the seam. Try not to distort the block.

Step 4 – Match up the remaining ‘Pies’ to the ‘Pie Cases 2’ and sew them together.


Step 5 – Lay the blocks out as per the diagram and then sew the rows diagonally.

For the purposes of this tutorial, I have used a limited number of fabrics to highlight the direction of the blocks.
Press the adjoining block seams open and the rows to one side.

Step 6 – Trim the staggered quilt edges back leaving approximately 1/4″ from the tip of the clam points at the top and bottom of the quilt and the sides as shown below.

Keep the quilt square when cutting back the outer blocks.

Step 7 –  Add the peeper border

  • Cut 4 x 1″ strips WOF. Press in half longways.
  • Measure the quilt across and cut two (2) peepers to that length.
  • Sew them to the quilt and then measure again and attach the last two peeper borders.

I used a longer stitch and sewed 1/8 inch from the edge.

Step 8 – Cut 4 x 4 1/2″ strips from ‘Pie Casing 2’ fabric for borders. Measure across the middle sections of the quilt and add borders.



Step 9 – Layer backing, wadding and quilt top. Baste and quilt as desired.
Step 10 – Cut 5 x 2 1/4″ strips from WOF for binding. Add binding.

Step 11 – Label, photograph and give this quilt to someone you love.

One fabulous Fandango quilt 42″ x 42″. Finished block size 4″ x 4″

Now sit back and enjoy a glass of Sangria on the lawn while you watch the day float by.

Jane Davidson
{Want it, Need it, Quilt it!}

I Dance in Circles


Making this quilt felt a little bit like dancing.  It is full of color and movement, and just the right touch of sexy.  But don’t be scared of all those curves; I assure you — not a single pin or template was used in their construction.

In case you don’t remember me, I’m Tracey; I blog at traceyjay quilts. And for this quilt, I dance in circles.

1 Fandango Layer Cake
4 yards backing
1/2 yard binding
At least four – 5/8 yd. pieces of coordinating Basic Grey Grunge solids
Featured: 
Grunge Basics  Poplin 30150 20
Grunge Basics  White 30150 58
Grunge Basics  Sateen 30150 18
Grunge Basics  Sweetie 30150 72
Grunge  Winter Mint 30150 85
Grunge Basics  Chiffon 30150 15
Grunge Basics  Rum Raisin 30150 13
Grunge Basics  Blue 30150 60

(You need at least twenty-eight 10″ squares – you can get four squares from one 10″ x WOF strip)

Though not necessary, an 8 1/2 inch square ruler comes in handy for this quilt.

 

Cutting:

  • Cut at least seven 10″ x WOF strips from your Grunge solids.  Sub-cut these in to at least twenty-eight 10″ squares  (I had extra, because I wanted lots of freedom in selecting my colors).

Piecing:

  • Open up your layer cake and combine two layer cake squares with one Grunge solid to make three fabric squares all together.  Stack these together.  (*You can also use two Grunge squares with one Fandango square, and will need to do this at least once in order to make enough blocks).  Have fun selecting your color combinations; the only thing you need to do is include some contrast.
  • Make your first cut about 1/3 of the way in, creating roughly the arc of one quadrant of a circle.  You do not need a template; just let your rotary cutter do the work.  It’s OK if it’s not perfect.
  • Move the top piece of fabric to the bottom of the stack.
  • Using this video as a demo, position your inside piece of fabric (with the convex curve), right-sides together on top of the piece of fabric with the concave curve.  (You don’t need to pin!)  Because we are not using a template that includes the 1/4″ seam allowance, you will need to position the start of your inner piece of fabric about 1/4″ of the way from the base of your lower piece of fabric (the brown piece shown pictured above).
  • In the picture below, you can see both how my starting edges are not lined up, and also that I am lifting the top piece.  Using one hand to guide your base fabric, and the other to guide your top fabric, sew that curve together.  You will hold the top piece of fabric up slightly; remember — the only place the edges need to line up are right where they are feeding in to the machine!

  • Sew your first seam together on all three pieces of your set.  Press seams either direction (I went toward the center on most of them).  There will be an off-set on the edges — don’t worry about that!



  • Stack these blocks together, and make your second cut a couple inches (ish) away from your first.



  • Move two pieces to the bottom of the stack so that each piece of fabric is represented in each block.
  • Using the same method as above, off-set your edges by about 1/4″, and with the convex curve on top, and concave (outside) curve on the bottom, sew together, resulting in three similar blocks.  (You don’t need to trim your threads)



  • Once you get the hang of it, you can make both your cuts at once — as pictured below.  Move the top piece of the furthest inside to the bottom, and the top two pieces of the middle section to the bottom in order to evenly distribute your pieces.  Have fun with varying the widths of your cuts… this is improv after all!



  • Using your 8 1/2 inch square ruler, or another ruler of your choice, trim block to 8 1/2″ square.  I trimmed three blocks at a time.


  • To make the quilt top, I sorted my blocks in to “cool” and “warm” colors — and distinguished between a solid or print in the outer ring.  



  • This quilt uses an 8 x 8 block lay-out.  Arrange your blocks as desired, and sew in to rows.  I chose to off-set every other set of rows by starting it with a half-circle, rather than all four quadrants.  Just because I liked it that way.
  • When joining rows, remember to press seams in every other direction.
Your quilt top is complete!

Layer…Baste…Quilt…Bind…Love.

A gorgeous throw measuring just over 60″ square after it’s all washed and crinkly.


When you try this, please remember to show me pictures!  You can add them to the Moda Bake Shop and traceyjay quilts groups on flickr.  For back story on this quilt, and more pics, come visit me; I’d love to hear from you.


Oh!  If you want to make this with fat quarters or yardage, instead of a layer cake, I’d recommend using 8.5″ or 9″ squares instead! 🙂




Tracey Jacobsen 
{http://traceyjayquilts.blogspot.com}

A Ritzy Cracker Quilt


Hi! I am Mary and I’m so happy to share this tutorial with you. The Cracker Block is a traditional quilt block that can looks great in everything from reproductions to beautiful designer fabrics like Fandango. It is a really versatile, fun block with a ton of layout options.


2 42 piece charm packs from the same line (Fandango by Kate Spain)
1 yard background fabric (Moda Bella Solid, Ivory)
1/2 yard binding Fabric (Fandango Raya Sierra)
3 yards backing fabric (Fandango Sarabande in Sand)
Batting for a 44″ x 52″ quilt
Thread

Take one charm pack and cut each square in half diagonally. Take the second charm pack and cut each square in half horizontally.

Take your background fabric and cut 42 2.5”x5” rectangles and 42 4.25” squares. Cut your 4.25” squares diagonally to produce 84 triangles in your background fabric.

Attach the horizontal charm pieces on either side of a 2.5” x 5” strip with a ¼” seam. Press seams as desired.


Now take your diagonally cut charm of the same print and center a triangle at each end of your strip section. Attach with a ¼” seam.



Press your seams open to reduce bulk later on. Trim dog ears.

Now center an ivory triangle over each side of the strip section. Attach with a ¼” seam.


Press these seams open and trim your block to 7 ¾” square.


Now you have a finished cracker block! Finish your other blocks and arrange as desired.

This is a really versatile block that can be arranged many ways. Some ways are:


Slanted

Zig Zag

Circles


Tic-Tac-Toe


X’s

Once you have the layout you like, sew your blocks together. I sewed them in 6 columns and 7 rows to use each block.

Create your binding strips and backing. Baste, bind, quilt.



Makes one 44″ x 52″ quilt.
Double your recipe for a really big quilt!


I hope you enjoy this tutorial.  If you make a quilt with it, let me know… it’d thrill my soul! Come visit me at The Tulip Patch to see this pattern in different fabrics and enter a giveaway I am hosting to celebrate my first Moda Bake Shop post!

Mary Lane Brown
{The Tulip Patch}

Charming Stars Quilt


Hello! I am Stefanie from Little Lady Patchwork. I am so thrilled to be sharing another Moda Bake Shop project with you.

My inspiration for my Charming Stars quilt comes from my latest obsession, charm packs. This time I wanted to create a simple quilt that involved very little cutting. The only cutting involved in the Charming Stars quilt is the background fabric, which makes this the perfect weekend project.

Grab your favorite charm packs and let’s get baking!

  • (3) Charm Packs of Fandango by Kate Spain + two extra 5″ squares or charms
  • (2 1/2 yards) of Bella Solid Ivory  SKU# 9900-11
  • (1) yard of cream floral SKU #27052-17 for the borders
  • (1/2) yard of pink stripe fabric SKU 27051-11 for the binding and the settting stones
  • (4 1/2) yards of blue tile fabric SKU# 27043-11 for the backing

Cutting Instruction:
From the Bella Solid Ivory, cut:

  • (10)  2 7/8″ X Width of Fabric (WOF) strips.
  •  Subcut each strip into (128) 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ squares.

Also cut:

  • (1) 5 ” X WOF strip.
  • Subcut this strip into (16) 5 ” X 5″ squares.

Also from the Bella Solid Ivory, cut:
  • (12) 2 1/2″ X WOF strips.
  • Subcut each strip into (24) 2 1/2″ X 14″ rectangles.
Finally, from the Bella Solid Ivory, cut:
  • (2) 2 1/2″ X 60 1/2″ strips

  • (2) 2 1/2″ X 64 1/2″ strips
From the Pink Stripe fabric, cut:
  • (9) 2 1/2″ X WOF strips.
  • Subcut ONE strip into (9) 2 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ squares.
  • The remaining strips will be used for the binding.

From the cream border fabric, cut:
  • (2) 2 1/2″ X 64 1/2″ strips
  • (2) 2 1/2″ X 68 1/2″ strips
Block Construction
Note: All seams are sewn with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press all seams in the direction of the arrows.
Step 1:
  • Lay your ruler on top of the ivory 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ sqaure.
Step 2:
  • Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on each of the ivory 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ squares.
Step 3:
  • With Right Sides Together (RST), layer an ivory 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ square on top of a 5″ X 5″ charm square.
Step 4 :
  • Using your sewing machine, stitch on the diagonal line.
Step 5:
  • Place the 1/4″ mark of your ruler on the diagonal line that you just stitched.
Step 6:
  • Using your rotary cutter, trim 1/4″ away from the diagonal line.
Step 7:
  • Press the block open.
Step 8:
  • With RST, layer another ivory 2 7/8″ X 2 7/8″ square on the opposite corner of the 5″ X 5″ charm square.
Step 9:
  • Stitch on the diagonal line.

Step 10:

  • Place the 1/4″ mark of your ruler on the diagonal line.

Step 11:

  • Using your rotary cutter, trim 1/4″ away from the diagonal line.
  • Discard the triangular piece.

Step 12:

  • Press the block open.

  • The block should measure 5″ X 5″ square.
  • Repeat and make a total of 64 blocks.

Step 13:

  • Layout the charm squares as shown below.

Step 14:

  • Join the 5″X5″ charm squares following the above layout.
  • Press the seams in the direction of the arrows.

Step 15:

  • Join the rows to complete the block.
  • Press the seams in the direction of the arrows.
Step 16:
You are now ready to assemble the quilt top. Refer to the photo and diagram for your block placement.
  • Layout the blocks into 4 rows of (4) 14″ X 14″ blocks
  • Place a white 2 1/2″ X 14″ rectangular strip in between the blocks.
For the (3) sashing rows:
  • Alternate a white 2 1/2″ X 14″ rectagular strip and a 2 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ sqaure for each sashing row.
    Step 17: 
    • Use the following diagram to attach the borders to the quilt top.
    Step 18:
    • Make a quilt sandwich and baste the layers together.
    • Quilt as desired.
    • Bind the quilt using your favorite method.
    (1) Charming Stars Quilts
    68″ X 68″ square
    Finished block size: 13 1/2″ X 13 1/2″
    I  hope that my Charming Stars quilt inspires you to make your own simple version. Please visit my blog to see my Fig Tree version of the Charming Stars quilt.
    Have fun creating your own Charming Stars!
    Stefanie Roman
    Little Lady Patchwork

    Fandango Filing Cabinet Cover


    Hey everyone! I’m Cara from CaraQuilts and I’ve got a great project today to hide that ugly filing cabinet we all have somewhere! Instead of cold grey metal, how about looking at some luscious fabrics, like these from the beautiful and talented Kate Spain!

    This pattern requires you to do some math if your filing cabinet is sized differently then mine, which is a standard two drawer legal size one (whoa that’s a mouthful). It measured 29″ long, 27″ high and 15″ across.

    As always, please read through the pattern first and message me over at my blog if you have any questions.

    2 layer cakes
    1 yard “border”
    5 yards backing


    Cutting
    WOF= Width of Fabric, from selvage to selvage.
    (3) 2 ½” xWOF border fabric, sub cut to (4) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ and (4) 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″
     (1) 4” x WOF border fabric, subcut (2) 15 ½” strips

    Directions
    All seams should be ¼”.

    Center Section:
    Separate your layer squares according to color.

    Take 8 layer squares (4 matching pairs) and draw a line on the light squares diagonally corner to corner. Lay a dark and light square right sides together into 4 pairs. Stitch ¼” on either side of the drawn line. Cut along the line and press towards the dark. These are half square triangles (HST) and this is the method to I used whenever you see make HST in this pattern.

    Choose 8 squares for the “setting”. Draw a line diagonally from corner to corner on the wrong side.
    Lay one of the setting squares on top of the half square triangle, right sides together. Stitch on either side of the line. Cut on the line and press towards the “setting”.

    The blocks need to be trimmed to 8”. Line up your ruler with the 4×4 mark on the center of the block. Trim. Rotate the block and line up the edges on the 8” lines, and trim.

    Lay out the blocks so that they create a pinwheel. You will use two from each of the matching sets.

    Stitch together the top pieces and bottom pieces. Press in opposite directions so you can “snap” them together. Stitch the top and bottom together. Press. Repeat for all blocks.

    Create one more “set” of pinwheels. This time lay them out before you trim. Trim one set to 8” as before. This one goes in the middle of the pinwheels.

    The other set needs to be trimmed to 5 ¾” and once it is stitched together, set aside for the side section. This will be part of one of the pockets.

    Take the 4” x 15 ½” border strips and stitch to either end of the section Press towards the strip.

    Side Sections:

    You will be making two matching side sections.

    You will need 5 layer squares cut to 9 ½”.

    Take four layer squares, two of four different colors, and create eight HSTs.

    A note … if you are not the quilting queen of the scant ¼”, which I am not, stitch a few extra threads shy of the ¼” so you will be able to trim the HST accurately.

    Trim to 9 ½” square.

    Stitch into a 9-patch according to the diagram.

    Take two matching layer squares, I used the multi-colored strip, and cut (6) 2 ½” x 10” strips. Stitch together to make (2) 29” strips. Stitch these to what will be the top of the side, or the bottom if you prefer.

    Pockets

    Take the smaller pinwheel from the center section and stitch a 2 ½” x 10 ½” strip on the top and bottom. Press towards the strips. Attach the 2 ½” x 14 ½” strip to the sides. Press away from the center. This will be one of the pockets.

    Cut one 5×10” strip from two fabrics. Subcut to 5”. Make another 4 HSTs. Layout in a pinwheel, with the point of one color in the center. Stitch together.

    Take one layer square and cut it diagonally into 4 triangles. These are the setting triangles for the pinwheel. Stitch along the long edge to the top and bottom of the pinwheel. Press away. Attach along the sides and press. Trim to 10 ½”. Stitch a 2 ½” x 10 ½” on the top and bottom. Press towards the strips. Attach the 2 ½” x 14 ½” strips to the sides. Press away from the center.

    You will need to fill the remaining three corners so that this big thing can be quilted. I have a pattern up on my blog if you like or you can use solid fabric, or any pattern that gives you a 29″ square top.

    Stitch all the sides together and then stitch them to either side of the center section.

    Quilt.

    After quilting, cut out the four corners leaving you something looking like a “t” or a cross.

    Bind. Mine had 320″ of binding. Yes, I am sorry about that part.

    To make the pockets take the cut out square and cut out the 2 pinwheels, including the edging. Cut a matching size of the plain fabric. These will yield a total of four pockets. I layered mine so I had two pockets on each side of my cabinet.

    Pocket Option #1

    Fold over the edge on one side of each square and press. Stitch it down on the “wrong” side.

    Layer two squares right side to wrong. Lay the plain square right side down, and then lay the pinwheel also right side down. Stitch around the three sides that were not pressed and stitched.

    Turn inside right and poke out the corners and press.

    This is your double pocket. Lay in the center of a side section, making sure it it facing up, and with a walking foot stitch 1/4″ all around, leaving the top open.

    Pocket Option #2

    Trim both the pinwheel square and the plain square to the same size. Now trim down the plain square about 1″ more. At the point I was done binding so I just pressed a 1/4″ allowance all around each block and stitched down. Laying the square so that the wrong sides are facing up. Stitch over the folded over fabrics stitch line on the smaller of the pockets. See the picture below.

    To attach the pocket to the cover, line it up over the centre square, right side facing you. Stitch 1/4″ in from the edge on the outer pocket. 

    And there you are!

    One beautiful looking filing cabinet!

    Make sure to leave us a comment if you like it! Also upload a picture to the Moda Bake Shop flickr group if you make one so we can all see!

    Cara Wilson
    Cara Quilts