Quick Honeycomb Wine Coasters


Hi there!  I’m Emily and I blog at Sew E.T.  I’ve been a long time follower of the Moda Bake Shop and many of my quilts are from tutorials found here!  I even have a binder chock-full of my favorite tutorials that I’ve printed out over the years.  

Ever since Honeycombs came out, I’ve been looking for ways to use the cuties.  I came up with this project when I needed a last minute gift for my office Christmas party. These are great for a hostess gift!  Ok, enough chit chat. Let’s make something!  






1 Moda Honeycomb (I used Color Me Happy by V & Co.) – Note: you only need 4 per coaster


7″ x 17″ Iron-on vinyl such as Heat N Bond, enough for 4 coasters


Use a 1/4 inch seam throughout

1.  Choose 4 honeycombs for each coaster.  One piece will be the bottom and the others will be showing on top when it’s all finished.  I chose all 4 from the same color group, so that way a person can remember what color they have and they’re not just pretty coasters!



2.  Optional step:  I decided to apply iron-on vinyl to just the bottom of my coasters to provide some additional protection on the tabletop.  Follow the instructions on your particular brand of iron-on vinyl.  I was able to get all 4 honeycombs side to side under the 7″ x 17″ piece of vinyl.  I put a piece of tissue paper or scrap paper under the honeycombs that are to be the bottoms, laid them out in a row face up on top, and then ironed the vinyl onto the paper and fabric, so that there wasn’t any overlap of the vinyl onto my ironing board.  Once it’s all ironed down, simply cut out along the edge of the fabric and the paper underneath comes right off the back!

Lay the bottoms down side by side over tissue paper or something to protect your ironing board.  Following directions for your vinyl, lay the vinyl over the bottoms.  Be sure to cover all the fabric!

Following directions for your vinyl, iron the vinyl down.  Mine said to have my iron at medium heat and to place the paper backing over the vinyl while pressing.

After pressing, peel away the paper from the vinyl and cut out close to the fabric edge.

The tissue paper isn’t attached and just peels right away!

Now all the bottoms are ready!

3.  Let’s go back to the remaining honeycombs that will be on the top of the coaster.  You’re going to iron them in half, wrong sides together, so the print is facing out.  Let’s call this a half honeycomb.  You’ll need 3 for each coaster.  



4.  Ok, let’s build a coaster.  Place the piece that will be the bottom right side up on your table.  Place the first half honeycomb on the bottom piece, lining up the edges.  The second half honeycomb stacks on top, slightly overlapping the first one.  See the photo for placement.  The last half honeycomb stacks on top of both the first and second.  You’ll slip one edge of the third half honeycomb underneath the edge of the first one so they are all interlocked.  Be sure the edges are all lined up with the bottom piece!  Pin these in place.



5.  I bet you saw that Moda put a fancy plastic template in your honeycomb bundle.  Do you see the little holes in each corner?  Those clever people placed those holes 1/4″ from the edge so you know when to stop sewing and pivot your needle.  They’re so nice 🙂  Place this template on top of the whole pinned up coaster, lining up the edges as best you can.  Use a marker to dot each corner through the template.  



6.  Let’s sew it together!  Now at your sewing machine, you’ll start along one edge, sewing 1/4″ seam on the top side of this little bundle.  Stop at the dot you made and pivot your needle so you can continue on each side until you meet your starting point and secure your threads.  Now you have a coaster – almost.



7.  I iron lightly before I turn it all right side out.  You’ll need something pointy to crisp up your corners.  Once you have it all turned right side out, you can press again, but don’t iron directly onto the vinyl if you did that part!   You should see a hole in the center of the top if you wiggle the fabric around.  That’s where your wine glass stem will come out, with the half honeycombs all snuggled around the base.  



8.  Pour yourself some red, white, or pink and snuggle your coaster over the bottom of your glass.  Ta-da!  Make one or twenty, but people will think you’re pretty clever.  Did I hear somebody say mimosas? 😀



4 or more awesome wine glass coasters!  

Thanks for checking out my tutorial.  I’d love to see pictures of any that you make at the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group.  Happy sewing!

Emily Thompson
Sew E.T.

Layer Cake Waterfall


This is literally a no sewing project! Layer cakes are my favorite pre-cut to sew with but my least favorite to hoard because they just aren’t as pretty as the rest of the bunch.  I tend to sew with them right away. But with this easy folding technique, I can make them look pretty to wait for me on the shelf while I spend some quality time with my jelly rolls and fat quarter bundles.

I’ve used this same technique to dress up fat quarter bundles so I thought I’d give layer cakes a try. A layer cake rolled up in this way is the perfect size to stuff into a stocking. And if you don’t think Santa is going to bring one of these lovelies to you, there is absolutely nothing wrong with putting one in your own stocking!

 
1 Layer Cake (I used Scrumptious by Bonnie and Camille)
6 to 8 inches of twill tape or ribbon (I used Moda twill tape that I saved from a jelly roll)


Fold your layer cake squares in half. (Look at all that layer cake dust!)

Line up the folded and bottom edges and fan them out about 1/4″ apart. Stack some prints on top of each other but make sure the ones you like best are showing.

Starting from one end, roll them up.

The ends of the outer layer cake should almost touch.  Use a rubber band or twill tape to tie the bundle together.

Start folding down the edges of various layer cake squares to create a waterfall effect. You won’t be able to fold down each one individually but you should be able to get a nice variety.

Adjust the folded layers until you get just the right look.


One sweet little bundle! Perfect to keep and lovely to give.

Hop over to {my blog} to see this tutorial using fat quarters.

May your stocking be stuffed with layer cakes this Christmas!

Lisa Calle
{www.vintagemodernquilts.com}

Charming Christmas Ornaments


Happy Christmas in July to everyone! It’s LeAnne from Everyday Celebrations with a fun and Christmassy project for you all. I have to say it was a little fun doing a Christmas project in June because I already have some of my handmade gifts crossed off my list! However, something not fun was the fact that the weekend I worked on these, it was 120 F degrees outside. (I live in Arizona.) As far from Christmassy weather as you can get. This project is simple, fun, and something you can do with your entire family. There are lots of options to make this project reflect you and your family’s Christmas decor and traditions.

{for all ornaments}
1 mini-charm pack  and/or
1 to 2 charm packs (depending on how many and whether you want identical ornaments)
1 fat quarter for initials (depending on how many you are making the solid charm squares may be sufficient)
scraps of cotton batting
baker’s twine or other desired string for hanging
1 to 2 skeins white embroidery floss
1 yard fusible webbing (I prefer Heat n’ Bond Ultrahold)
embroidery needle
doll needle or other needle with large eye for adding hanging loops

{handprint ornament supplies}
solid squares from charm pack or 1 fat quarter for initials
fabric or acrylic paint
foam brush
black embroidery floss (to embroider the year)

Note: The printable PDF includes the text for all the ornaments and hexi templates. When you print these pages, just print them flipped or mirror so the letters are backwards for fusible web.  If you don’t know how to do this, just print normally and tape the paper to a sunny window with the back facing you. Then trace onto fusible web. Or you can always print off your own letter!

Below are instructions for all the ornaments. All ornaments are finished the same way so those steps are at the very end.

{Handprint Ornament} 

I love making handprint memorabilia with my girls. These ornaments are rather large, but they still look wonderful on the tree. (They are the full 5″ with the corners trimmed.) Every year I have my girls make an ornament for their Grandmas. So this is their Grandma ornament for this year! 

1. First, select two 5″ charm squares for each ornament. Next, you will want to put a handprint on the charms you picked for the ornament backs. (I found using less busy prints helped the handprint standout more.) Tape the charms to a piece of cardboard at each corner. (After doing this I found it helpful to tape at each corner instead of just the top. The fabric can move quite a bit.) Paint your child’s hand generously with fabric or acrylic paint. Help them place their hand in the middle of the square and press their hand firmly down to get a nice print. Allow to dry.

2. I cut the corners of my squares after adding the handprint to give more of an ‘ornament’ shape. To make a template, simply take the cardboard that comes with the charm pack and cut each corner at a 45 degree angle. (I used the 45 degree mark on my cutting mat to make it consistent. Cut ornament fronts, backs, and batting using the template. Trim batting so it’s slightly smaller than the fabric.

3. If desired, embroider the year on the back with the handprint using a backstitch.

4.  To make initials trace the appropriate letter on to fusible webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. (A set of letters is included in the printable PDF.) I used my Cricut to cut my letters. If you have one, or another digital craft cutter, check out my tutorial for cutting fabric with the Cricut.

To finish the ornament, see the finishing section.

 {Hexagon Ornaments}

I love hexis! These are fun and much smaller than the handprint ornaments. (Perfect if you have kids whose hands are too big for the charms.) I made a set of mini hexi ornaments for my family with our initials. I also made a large hexi ornament that says JOY.

 1. First, select two squares for each ornament. Cut front, back, and batting using the hexagon template. (Included in the printable PDF.  I included both a large and small hexi template.) Trim batting so it’s slightly smaller than the fabric.

2. To add text or initials, trace the appropriate letter(s) on to fuisble webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. (I included a small set of letters in the printable PDF and the JOY letters.)

To finish the ornament, see the finishing section.

{Square Ornaments}

For these ornments I used the mini-charms. Select two for each ornament.

1. Select ornament front and back.  Cut a piece of batting slightly smaller than the squares.

2. Trace letters onto fusible webbing. Adhere to fabric according to directions and cut. Adhere onto ornament front. 

3. To make the JOY ornament, string together the three squares after finishing.

{Finishing}

You can either finish the ornaments by hand with a blanket stitch or by machine. 
Blanket Stitch

1.  Place the back wrong side up with the batting on top. Thread a needle with embroidery floss and knot the end. Pass needle through the batting. Place ornament top on the batting and use a blanket stitch around the ornament. (I am not an embroidery pro by any stretch so here is my favorite tutorial on the blanket stitch. So helpful!)
Machine
1. Layer the ornament back, batting, and ornament top together. Pin in the middle. Machine stitch with a generous 1/4″ seam around the ornament. Backstitch at the end. 
Hanging Loop
1. Thread a needle with baker’s twine, or other string, and thread through the top of the ornaments. Cut to desired length and tie off. (Since baker’s twine is thicker, I used a doll needle with a large eye to add the hanging loop.)


Lots of fun and festive Christmas ornaments! 

LeAnne Ballard
{everydaycelebrate.blogspot.com}

120-Minute Gift: Drunkard’s Path Table Runner



Drunkard’s Table Runner: ‘marmalade’ with a festive spin:  A 12.5” x 54” table runner featuring “Marmalade” by Bonnie and Camille for Moda, >composed of (5) 9.5” square drunkard’s path blocks
 

Recipe Pattern by Erin Davis of Sew at Home Mummy


Hi all!

I wanted to do something festive for my dining room table, and I thought, hey! I love ‘marmalade’, why not pair it with a modern red & green to give the line a Christmas-y spin? I love the way it turned out – it looks good on my table for the upcoming holidays, yet I could most definitely pull it off year round! I had a lot of fun composing this runner and I have to say: don’t be scared of curved piecing! Look how gorgeous it looks when it’s done. This would make a fantastic holiday gift, too. 

Happy sewing, quilting and crafting everyone!

Cheers and enjoy the project,

Erin




– 1 Moda ‘marmalade’ by bonnie and camille Charm Pack
– 1 yard Bella Solids ‘Pistachio’
– 1/3 yards Bella Solids ‘Scarlet’
– 16”x60” piece of batting











Cutting:
From charm squares:
see attached templates (A) & (B) in the printable version of the post… I cut mine from the cardboard on the back of the charm square pack, like this:

***sort the charm squares as you like – have fun with it! I pre-sorted my squares into colorways (i.e. – all the ‘reds’ in one stack, all the yellows in another, etc. and then paired the patterns based on what I’d like to see as the center wedge piece, and what I’d like to see as the outer ‘L’ piece.***

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (A) (creating the ‘wedge’ shapes)

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (B) (creating the ‘L’ shapes)

Tip: when cutting curved pieces, try to use the smallest sized rotary cutter you have; you’ll find it much easier to navigate the curves.Your cut pieces will look like this, with the wedge-shaped piece appearing larger than the concave part of the ‘L’ shape – don’t worry:

This is what you want – it’s the seam allowances that make it appear too big to fit.

From yardage:

Pistachio:
Cut (2) pieces of 16” x 30”
Scarlet:
Cut (4) pieces 2”x9.5”
Cut (2) pieces 2”x12.5”
Cut (3) strips 2”x width of fabric


Piecing (Runner Top):
1. Sort your A’s and B’s in combinations of fours (there will be 4 each of A’s and B’s in one block) ; I sorted by colorway in a way that was aesthetically pleasing to me. Have fun with it!

Have fun arranging your pieces
2. Attach piece (A)s to piece (B)s, creating quarter block units. If you have never pieced Drunkard’s blocks before, here are some tips.

a. Fold your Piece (A) and (B) in half along the cut curve, and finger press like so:

b. Match your finger press marks, right sides together, and pin

Tip: When pinning for curved seams, try to have your pin enter where the sewing line will be – i.e. ¼” from the edge of the fabric, and only ‘grab’ a small amount of fabric with pin

c. Match the two outside edges together; pin in the same manner as described above. Place pins along the rest of the curve, easing the fabric to fit.

d.  Sew the two pieces together. I have sewn both with the wedge piece (piece (A)) on top, and the wedge piece on bottom. Personally, I find it easier with the ‘L’ shaped piece (or piece (B)) on top – but you’ll have to play with it to find what you’re most comfortable with. Here are some tips I have found helpful for sewing curved seams:

                             i. Slow and steady; don’t expect to zip around these curves like straight piecing (unless you’re pro! haha)

                             ii. Leave your pins in to the last minute, without sewing over them.

                             iii. every 3-5 stitches, lift your presser foot, pivot slightly, adjust your fabrics, etc.

                             iv. always be conscious of the fabric about to enter under your presser foot – make sure there are no lumps and bumps.

                             v. I have some more tips on my blog – I recently finished a 4” apple core quilt and posted ideas on curved piecing here: 
                             Sew at Home Mummy: Apple Core Quilt
e.  When you’re done sewing, you’ll have a block that looks like this:

f.   Press towards piece (A)s.
g.  Join two quarter blocks to create a half block; press. Repeat with other half of block.
                   Join two half block pieces, matching center seams. Press center seam open.
3.  Arrange completed blocks in an orientation you like. When you’re happy with your layout, attach 2”x9.5” sashing pieces (in ‘Scarlet’) between blocks to create table runner top, like so:
4.  Sew the (3) 2”x width of fabric (in ‘Scarlet’) together, creating one long strip. Use strip to border runner. ‘Cap’ ends with (2) 2” x 12.5” pieces:
Piecing (Backing & Binding):
1.  Sew short ends of the two 16”x30” pieces of ‘Pistachio’ together, creating a backing measuring 16”x60” with a ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.

2.  Use remaining ‘Pistachio’ for binding (as desired).
Finishing:
1.       Layer, baste and quilt as desired.
2. Bind as desired with remaining ‘Pistachio’. I used a decorative top-stitch on the binding seam to jazz it up a bit. 
One gorgeous ‘marmalade’ table runner with a festive spin.

If you have a minute, pop by my blog and see what shenanigans are brewing – there’s always something happening.

Erin Davis

{Sew at Home Mummy}

Big thanks to Moda for giving me the opportunity to work with their gorgeous fabrics again!

120-Minute GIft: Tea Party Tuffets


Brighten up your space with Vanessa’s happy little Tea Party Tuffets. Make them simple with just yardage or add a little patchwork fun with charm packs. There are so many lovely possibilities!


*Fabric is “Marmalade” by Bonnie & Camille

  • 1 charm pack or 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Top
  • 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Bottom
  • 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Side
  • 1 Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern {see Printer Friendly file at bottom of post}
  • 6 lbs polyester fiberfill

  • 4-1/2 yards decorative trim or piping


*Print out all pages of the Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern. Be sure to print at 100% scale on regular 8.5 x 11″ paper and assemble according to pattern instructions.  

PLEASE NOTE: There will be small gaps in the pattern circle shape where the pages are taped together–this is okay! Do not trim or overlap the pages in an attempt to connect the lines.
 
Once all pages are taped together, cut out the pattern.


Tuffet-Top: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-top fabric. If using a charm pack instead of yardage, refer to the Patchwork Tuffet-Top instructions.
Tuffet-Bottom: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-bottom fabric.

Patchwork Tuffet-Top: You will need 36 of the 42 charm squares; organize them into six rows with six charm squares per row.

Assuming 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the charm squares into their rows, pressing open the seams afterwards. Sew the rows together, lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand. Press those seams open as well.

Center the pattern and cut out one circle for your tuffet-top.

INTERFACING OPTION: At this point, I like to iron a feather weight fusible interfacing to the back of each tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom piece. It makes the fabric feel a bit stiffer and gives an overall stability to the shape of the finished product that I really love! Not a requirement though.

EMBELLISHMENT OPTION: Another option is to embellish your tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces with some sort of trim. I’ll use pom-pom trim to demonstrate, but there are many trim options you could use!

In all likelihood, you will need to use a zipper foot to stitch your trim in place.  In general, you’ll want the seam allowance to be about 1/2″.  Because the pom-pom trim is so skinny, I’m going to lay it down 1/4″ in from the raw edge of the fabric, pom-poms on the inside.

Whatever trim you use, I sometimes find it helpful to remember that everything left of the needle/stitching is what is going to show.

Once you’ve sewn almost all the way around, cut the end of the trim to overlap with the beginning-piece and resume stitching it down.

TUFFET SIDE: From the tuffet-side fabric, cut two strips 12″ x WOF; subcut into two 12 x 37″ strips. (Iron fusible interfacing to the back of each if you’ve done it to the tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces.)

 

To sew them into a tube: bring the 12 x 37″ strips right sides together, aligning the raw edges, and pin along the 12″ sides.

[Switch to a regular presser foot and] sew down the 12″ sides using 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 6-7″ gap unstitched in the center of one of those sides as indicated by the diagram below. (This is how we will turn our tuffet right-side out later).

Press open the seams. (Here is the side with the gap.)

 

Pin the edges of the tuffet-top to the top-side of the tube, right sides together. 

UNEMBELLISHED TUFFET: Sew the tuffet-top and tube together using 1/2″ seam allowance.
EMBELLISHED TUFFET: Re-install the zipper foot and sew the the tuffet-top and tube together using the same seam allowance used to sew the trim in place (approximately 1/2″). The easiest way to do this is just sew along the seam showing on the wrong side of the tuffet-top.  (I apologize I neglected to take a picture of this as it makes more sense than what I did–I lined the zipper foot up against the bulk of the pom-pom trim and [blindly] stitched with the tube-side fabric showing on top.)

 

Pin the tuffet-bottom to the other side of the tube, right sides together and repeat.

Turn the tuffet right-side out through the 6-7″ gap in the side.

Your tuffet will look quite sad and saggy without stuffing, so fill it! I stuffed mine pretty full so it would be nice and sturdy.

Once it’s full to your liking, fold the edges in at the hole and pin closed. (This is probably the toughest part of the whole project!) Stitch the hole closed by hand (I recommend a ladder stitch).


 An adorable tuffet!

Vanessa Goertzen
{lellaboutique.blogspot.com}

120-Minute Gift: Hugs and Kisses Quilted Table Runner


Quilt Top:
1 pkg. charm squares (I used a layer cake and trimmed them down to 5″ x 5″)
1/2 yd. white (a background fabric contrasting with your charm squares)
1/3 yd. inner border fabric

Binding:
1/3 yd. grey or coordinating fabric

Backing:
1/2 yd. grey or coordinating fabric (your runner will be reversible, so pick a fabric that looks great all by itself)

 Choose your favorite 16 squares from the charm pack. They need to be darker or bolder than your background fabric (my background fabric is white). Six of these 16 squares will be turned into X blocks, while the remaining 10 will become O blocks. If you have any large prints that you want to show off, set those in your X stack.

White Squares:
Cut your white or contrasting fabric into 20 5″ squares.

 Cutting the X Block:
Line up four X squares perfectly on top of each other. Cut a 3″ x 5″ rectangle, leaving you with another rectangle measuring 2″ x 5″, which you will set aside for a moment. Cut a 3″ square from your 3″ x 5″ rectangle. This is the center of your X block. Use the remaining pieces to cute 5 sets of 1 1/2″ squares. (You will use four of these squares in the X block and the fifth set of squares will be used in the outer border of the quilt.) Cut the remaining two charm squares the same way.

Cut 10 of your white 5″ squares in this same way as well.

Your X Block will be cut like this:

Cutting the O Block:
Line up four squares perfectly on top of each other. Just like with the X Block, cut a 3″ x 5″ rectangle, leaving you with another rectangle measuring 2″ x 5″. From your 3″ x 5″ rectangle, cut three rectangles measuring 3″ x 1 1/2″. From the 2″ x 5″ rectangle, cut one rectangle measuring 3″ x 1 1/2″. You will have a spare 1 1/2″ square that you can use in the outer border of the quilt. 
Cut 6 of your white 5″ squares in this same way as well.
Your O Block will be cut like this:
Cutting the Triangles:
With the remaining four white 5″ squares, cut across the diagonal, like this:

Cutting the Inner Border:
You will need 3 strips of the inner border, 1″ wide.
Cutting the Squares for the Outer Border:
Using the remaining uncut charm squares, come up with 130 little squares measuring 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″. 
Ready to Sew!
Start with your X Blocks. Lay out your block like a 9 Patch. THE CONSISTENCY IN SIZE OF YOUR SEAMS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT! Keep it right at 1/4″. Always. 
Sew into three small rows, like this:
Press the seams away from the lighter fabric and towards the darker fabric. Then sew those three little rows together:

If you’ve pressed your seams correctly and maintained that 1/4″ seam, your pieces should nest perfectly as you sew along. 
Press these seams toward the dark center of the X Block:
Your O Blocks will be done the same way, with the exception of the direction you press the seams. Always press away from the lighter colored fabric. 
   

 Lay out your blocks the way you like them.

Sew into rows.

Press the first row one direction, the second row in the opposite direction, the third the same direction as the first row, etc. Then sew your rows together, remembering to nest those seams perfectly together.

It’s time to square off your corners. You want each end of your runner to be perfectly square, while the sides of your runner need to meet at a 135 degree angle, if that makes any sense at all…Like this:
Now sew on the first edge of your inner border. Cut the ends of the border strip flush with the edges of your quilt.

There needs to be 1/4″ left on the long sides of your quilt, where the white triangles are.

Add the rest of your inner border, keeping the same things in mind while cutting the edges.

Press seams away from the quilt body, towards the inner border.
For the Outer Border, sew those 130 little squares together into one enormous strip. Then add this strip the same way you added your inner border. Pull the outer border snugly as you sew along to prevent having a wavy quilt edge. 
Press seams toward the inner border, away from the outer border.
Your quilt top is finished! Sandwich your top, batting and backing and quilt away. Finish off with your binding. (For an excellent binding tutorial, visit here.)
One table runner measuring approximately 16″ x 42″.
Leah Douglas

60-Minute Gift: Herringbone Hot Pads


Combine a herringbone pattern with the popular zig zag for a fun, unique pot holder and trivet that is self binding. Or use the blocks to make a quilt! Great for Christmas gifts, teacher gifts and using up extra charm packs!

  • 1 Simply Color charm pack or charm pack of your choice
  • 1 yard of fabric for backing or four 14×14 inch squares
  • 1/2 yard batting or eight 10×10 inch squares
  • 1/2 yard insul-bright Insulating material or four 10×10 inch squares

    I’m so excited to be here! I’ve been making these hot pads like crazy! You can hop over to my blog, Melanie Dramatic, to see several other examples in various Moda lines along with a few other ideas of what you can do with this design!

    You’ll start with one charm pack! (I cut down a layer cake to 5-inch squares since that’s what I had!)
    Charm squares

    Cut your charm pack into 1 1/2 inch strips.  From one charm pack you’ll get 3 ‘sets’ of strips.

    Cut 1.5 inch strips

    I prefer to use one set at a time while sewing.  Set two groups aside and sort the first stack by color.  Having them sorted into color groups helps me make sure I’m evenly distributing the colors and patterns throughout!

    Sort into Colors

    Now it’s time to start sewing strips together using a 1/4 inch seam.

    Sewing strips

    Alternating sides, continue to add strips.  (I finger press the seams down toward the bottom of the ‘V’ as I sew….although getting up to iron each seam during the process would be better exercise…)

    Add strips Until stack is gone

    Continue sewing until your first stack is gone!  You’ll have a really fun, colorful, long herringbone strip!

    Herringbone Strip

    Iron the seams down (toward the bottom of the ‘V’). 

    Press

    Square the top and cut two 11-inch sections.  (You will have left over.  Save that to start sewing your next strip set.)  Our hot pads will be 10 inches, but that little bit of extra length allows you to perfectly match seams.

    Square top

    Next you will trim off the extra on each side.  You want each rectangle to be 5 1/2 inches x 11 inches.  I match up the 2 1/2 inch mark on my ruler with the bottom/right ‘V’ for the first cut.  Then I rotate and cut the block to 5 1/2 inches width.

    Trim_sidesRectangle

    Pin your rectangles together at each seam. Seams will all face down. Do not worry about lining up the top and bottom.  Getting the seams to mach is more important!  Sew together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

    Pin together

    Press center seam allowance open.

    Press seam open

    Trim your block to 10 inches x 10 inches.

    block will be 10x10

    You’ll need one 14x14inch piece of fabric for the back, two 10×10 inch squares of batting and one 10×10 inch square of Insul-bright insulation.  It is a lot of layers, but I really like the extra sturdy feel this gives the hot pad – plus with the Insul-bright and extra batting, I’m not afraid to pull something out of the oven! (If you’re going to use it solely for decoration, you could use one or two layers of batting only.)

    all layers

    Place the Insul-bright in between the two layers of batting and pin all layers together.  Spray basting also works well to hold everything in place.

    Pin all layers

    Quilt as desired.  I love the look of following the seams with my 1/4 inch foot.

    Quilt
    Carefully even batting and top layers ONLY if needed with scissors.  Next cut off the excess backing fabric so it is 1-inch larger than the top on each side.  The unit will measure 12×12.

    Trim to size

    Fold and iron the extra inch of backing fabric in half so that it meets up with the raw edge of your hot pad.  Then fold again to the top of the hot pad and secure in place.  (I was using bobby pins at this point but my new favorite method is using school glue to hold fabric in place. Simply set with a hot dry iron!)
    self bindingself binding
    Fold your corner diagonally so that it meets with the raw edge of the next side.  Then continue by folding that edge in half and then again up onto the hot pad, just as you did on the first side.  Continue working your way around the hot pad until all four sides are ready to sew.

    self bindingself binding

    Sew binding in place.  Get your stitching as close to the inside edge of the binding as you can.  And if you’re using bobby pins or other gadgets to hold the binding in place, please be sure to remove them as you sew!  (If you switch to glue, you won’t have to worry about that anymore!)

    self binding

    HH_Final

    One charm pack will make four hot pads.  (Use your left over strip to start sewing another set for more hot pads!)  And don’t forget to come over to my blog to see them made in other Moda fabrics and a few other projects I’ve made with these fun blocks!  I have to say, I’m sorta in love with the quilt. 🙂

    -Melanie
    {MelanieDramatic}