Tumbling Around Quilt

Hi there! Konda Luckau from Moose on the Porch Quilts here. I have loved playing around with honeycombs! I have a tumbling block quilt from my grandmother that I love. I have wanted to make one for a very long time. These Honeycombs finally make this quilt easy, and fun, to make! I have a new technique for piecing these blocks by machine – including being able to chain piece the blocks. I have a new book coming out this Spring full of projects using this new technique. Give it a try. You just may like it!

1 25th & Pine Honeycomb
1 1/4 yards White Bella Solid
2/3 yard Honky Tonk Red Plaid
1 1/4 yards Backing
Plastic Hexagon Template from Honeycomb

Cutting Instructions:
1. Take the plastic hexagon template from the honeycomb. Cut it as shown below.

2. Cut the white background fabric into 4 – 2 1/2″ strips, 4 – 4 1/2″ strips, and 3 – 2 5/8″ strips.
3. Using the diamond template, cut 28 diamonds from the 2 5/8″ strips.
4. Cut the red accent and binding fabric into 4 – 1 1/2″ strips and 4 – 2 1/2″ strips.
5. Take 25th & Pine Honeycomb and cut each hexagon into three diamonds as shown below.

Sewing Instructions:
6. Reorganize the diamonds into three stacks according to color.

7. Now for the magic! This is the trick to piecing y-seams on a sewing machine. The difference between my method and traditional machine piecing techniques is that my method can be chain pieced! Chain piecing means it is a lot faster and less thread waste. Refer to the picture below.
    a. Start the seam 1/4″ down from the corner.
    b. Sew 1/4″ into the diamond parallel to the top edge of the diamond.
    c. Sew down the right edge of the diamond with a 1/4″ seam.
    d. Stop 1/4″ from bottom edge.
    e. Sew to the right edge parallel to the bottom edge.
    f. Now it is ready for the next piece!

8. Seams will be pressed clockwise.

9. The bottom diamond is sewed on one seam at a time. Using the same method as above, matching diamond points, sew the right seam.

10. This is what it looks like opened up.

11. Fold hexagon in half matching points and sew the last seam as shown below.

12. Press the seams clockwise opening up the center of the seam allowances into a bitty hexagon.

13. With those three seams, one tumbling block is created! Repeat to make 38 tumbling blocks.

 14. Lay out the center of the quilt as shown below.

15. Using the same machine piecing technique as before, sew the tumbling blocks into rows.

16. Again, using the same machine piecing technique as before, sew the rows together.

17. Trim the left and right sides even. Trim the top and bottom 1/4″ outside of the points. The quilt should now measure about 26″ x 27″. Your measurements may differ slightly because of the many bias edges. Press carefully.

18. Use the 4 – 2 1/2″ white background strips to sew on the first border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of border strips.
19. Use the 4 – 1 1/2″ red accent strips to sew on the second border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of the border strips.
20. Use the 4 – 4 1/2″ white background strips to sew on the third border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of the border strips.
21. Quilt and use the 4 – 2 1/2″ binding strips to bind the quilt.

One fabulous quilt machine pieced tumbling block quilt that measures about 39″ x 40″.

Konda Luckau

Candy Stars Mini Quilt

Hello everyone!  My name is Chrissy Lux and I co-own Sew Lux Fabric with my mom.  I am really excited to be back on the Moda Bake Shop sharing another project with you today.

Moda Candy precuts (mini charms) are super cute and so easy to collect!  Here’s a fun & quick mini quilt project that could easily be enlarged to make a bigger version – just add more candy!

Fabric Needed:
76 mini charms *
1 yard solid for Background (Bella White Bleached 9900 98)
1 yard for backing (Mixed Bag Dots 32870 21)
1/4 yard for binding (Bella Etchings Slate 9900 170)

(*I used 4 packs of the New Bella Solids, which have 30 mini charms.  But most print collections have 42, so you may only need 2 candy/mini charm packs if you are going for a scrappy look.) 

Tools Needed: 
Machine & basic sewing supplies

Use a 1/4″ seam throughout. 
Step 1: Prep Background & Borders: 
From the solid background, cut the following: 
TWO 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into twenty (20) 2.5″ squares
THREE 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into twenty-eight (28) 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles
TWO 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into eight (8) 2.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles
FOUR – 3.5″ x WOF strips for borders
For this project, we’ll make two blocks – a variable star and a simple 4 patch.  You’ll need four 4-patch blocks and five star blocks.  
Step 2: Sort your Squares
Sort your candy squares into piles with five piles of 12 squares (corners & center) and four piles of four squares (middle of top & bottom row and left and right columns) as shown. 
Since I was using solids, I sorted mine by color into a ROYGBIV type of color wheel.  Because of this, I took extra time while sewing to make sure I kept things in the correct order and placement.  If you are using prints to create a scrappy look, you can certainly sew a little more carefree!  🙂 

Step 3: Make the 4-Patch Units
The 4-patch blocks are easy to whip together.  Sew two sets to two squares together.  Press in opposite directions.

Then stitch them together.

Repeat this process for the four 4-patch units. Next, we’ll add borders to complete the units.

Sew a 2.5″ strip to the top and bottom of your 4-patch unit.  Press toward the border/away from the 4-patch.

Then add the 2.5″ x 8.5″ sides.  Press toward the center.  Repeat to complete all four 4-patch units.

Step 4: Make the Variable Star Units
For these blocks, you will start by making a 4-patch for the center.   Then we’ll make and add wonky geese on the sides to create the star.

Place one candy square on top of one 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangle. (If using prints, remember to place right sides together!)  Sew on the diagonal, being sure that when you fold the square over, it will cover all of the background rectangle.

Trim away excess fabric and press toward the candy square.

Next, add another candy square opposite of the first.  Sew along the diagonal, trim away excess and press towards the candy square fabric.
TIP:  Since these are so small, I just finger press to create a crease down the diagonal as a sewing guide. If you prefer to mark with a pencil or disappearing ink, feel free. 

Trim your completed wonky geese unit to 2.5″ x 4.5″.

Assemble the star, by sewing two geese units to the top and bottom – press toward the center.

Then sew 2.5″ background squares to the sides of the remaining two geese units, pressing toward the background squares.

Then sew the side units to the center, and press away from the center.

Step 5: Assemble the Top
Now, its time to assemble your quilt top!   Start by making a large 9-patch with your 4-patch and variable star blocks.

Then add border strips to the sides and then the top and bottom.

Layer and quilt as desired.  Finish by adding binding.  (Need help binding?  MBS tutorial here.) 

You can easily make this project with prints – here is a mock up of what it might look like in Scrumptious by Bonnie & Camille.

Hope you enjoyed this project!

1 Sweet Mini Quilt approximately 30 in x 30 in.

Chrissy Lux

Star Log Cabin and Mini Quilt

Finished Quilt Size: Approximately 40” x 40”

Welcome back to the Cabins!

I had so much fun with the Down on the Farm quilt on the September 26th Bake Shop, that I just had to return with a couple of “minis” for everyone.

The gorgeous Midwinter Reds fabric line from Minick and Simpson is just perfect for building log cabins, so I am going to continue
the theme here.

The table topper size quilt is going to look amazing for my Christmas decorating and the little mini is a show stopper at any time of the year and will be showcased in a prominent spot in my quilting studio.

Happy quilting!

– Marlene Biles – Sipiweske Quilts

Ingredients for Star Cabins:
1 – “Midwinter Reds” layer cake by Minick and Simpson
First border: 1/4 yard
Second border: 1/4 yard
Third border: 1/2 yard
1/4 yard background fabric for paper-pieced cabin blocks
1/3 yard centre squares and binding fabric
1 1/4 yards of backing fabric (ensure that there is at least 42“ of usable width – if not, you will need to purchase extra and piece it together to get the width required.)
44” x 44” batting

Ingredients for Mini Log Cabins:
Scraps from the layer cake
Two copies of the pattern sheet
Scraps of fabric for borders
Frame with a mat opening of 8” x 8”

Double matting to match your mini log cabin;
Barn board frame to finish off your masterpiece.

The blocks shown above are for your reference during the construction process.  If you are using a planned colour placement for your blocks you could cut your strips and label them as to the placement number as shown in the block above on the right.  If you are making your block scrappy, just be sure to follow the light side for your lights and the dark side for your darks.

Now it’s time to open up that gorgeous layer cake and make a few decisions.  Do a quick flip through all of those fantastic prints and separate the reds into one stack, the creams into one stack, the tans into another stack and a separate stack for the prints that you don’t think will work in your layout.  To get the star effect you will be making the following:

4 – all cream blocks (avoid prints that have too much red);
4 – all red blocks (avoid prints that have too much cream or tan in them);
8 – 1/2 red and 1/2 cream blocks.
As a color guide see the reference block above.

Now have a look at your four paper pieced log cabins and decide which prints you want to use for them.  1 1/4” is the widest strips that you need for the cabin and the roof units; a 2 1/4” piece is needed for the window.  If you are using a print that has not been used in the 16 log cabin blocks then there is no concern as to whether you will have enough.  If you are using some prints from the log cabin blocks, then just make sure that you set aside some for your paper pieced cabins.  Or you can make your four paper pieced log cabins before starting the 16 blocks and eliminate the “surprise” factor.

How to Cut Log Cabin Strips:
Make a stack of 4 to 6 prints from the 10″ x 10″ squares that you have selected for your log cabin squares (or whatever number you are comfortable cutting through at one time).

Line up the left hand edges of your stack as close to perfect as possible.  Measure 1 5/8” from the left raw edge and make your first cut.
Flip the strip around and trim off the raw edge to make a perfect 1 1/2” strip.

Continue cutting 1 1/2″ strips.
From the light strips cut 4 – 1 1/2” strips from each print and from the dark prints, cut 5 – 1 1/2” strips – all your strips will be 10” long – do not cut into shorter segments at this stage. If you prefer, cut one strip less of each of the prints and then just go back later in the construction process and cut a few of the prints that you feel you want to have a bit more of.
Using the yardage that you have chosen for your centre squares, cut 1 – 1 1/2” x 42” strip and sub-cut into 16 – 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” squares.
Before you start sewing – check your seam allowance.  A perfect 1/4” is preferred, but in all cases ensure that whatever seam allowance you start with you continue through the entire quilt construction process.  To achieve the 7” finished square blocks for this project, I needed to move my needle setting over to the right by a couple of nudges.  Everyone’s machine may sew just a bit different and everyone’s presser foot might be a bit different, so be prepared to maybe have a 7” x 7” finished block, and maybe not.
How to Sew Log Cabin Blocks:
Step One:
Place a centre square and  a light strip right sides together and join with a 1/4” seam, using the machine’s presser foot as a guide.  Now line up your ruler against the straight edge of Print #1, and using your rotary cutter trim away the excess of Print #2 (refer to the block legend shown earlier for reference).  Open squares and press seam allowance away from the centre square.
NOTE:  Remember that the last strip you added is always on top under the needle.  Sew with the wrong side of the finished work facing you, the new strip will always be underneath so that you can see the seam allowances and guide them away from the centre of the block as you stitch.

Step Two:
Lay this unit on top of another light strip – right sides together.  Stitch this seam as shown in the photo.  Ensure that you push the seam allowance up as you sew over it.  Trim off piece #3 evenly with piece #1.  Press seam allowance away from the centre square.
Step Three:
Turn the unit so that piece #3 is at the top and lay this section over a dark strip (#4).  Align the raw edges and stitch, ensuring that the previous seam allowance is pushed upwards.  Trim unit evenly with piece #1 and #2.  Press seam allowance away from the centre square.
Step Four:
Now lay this partial block on top of another dark strip (#5).  Stitch and trim strip #5 even with the edge of unit #2 and #3.  Open up and press.

Continue adding and trimming strips in this manner, always turning the block counter-clockwise as you add strips, until you have a block 7 1/2” x 7 1/2” square that looks like the block above.  Assembly line piecing works very well with this type of block if a planned colour placement is used.  As in the samples shown here, the prints are randomly placed which makes it a bit more difficult to use the assembly line method – a modified version does work, but not quite as efficiently.
Give all of your blocks a final pressing and get them stacked and ready to lay out into a quilt.  Refer to the photo below or play around with different layouts to find one that appeals to you.
Cutting Strips for Paper Piecing:
If you have some leftovers from the Log Cabin Blocks (1 1/2”), these can be used for:  House Roof; House Door; and Chimney, or cut 1 1/2” strips from your chosen prints.
For the House Window cut a 2” strip from remaining 10” x 10“ fabrics – they can all be the same or different – your choice!
From your background fabric (42” wide) cut two 1 1/2” strips and one 2 1/2” strip.  The 2 1/2″ strip is needed for the left side of the roof unit and the top of the block.  Add a 1 1/2” background strip to each side of the cabin once it is constructed and a 2 1/2” strip to the top of the cabin block. If you need to adjust the log cabin blocks to fit your border when it is completed, the 2 1/2″ strip across the top is where you can add a bit to or subtract a bit from, so you may want to leave this strip off until you finish your border strip set (see instructions below).  Trim it to match your border right before sewing it to either end. 
Border Construction:
The borders for this quilt are done in strip sets.
1. The first step is to measure the four sides of the quilt top, and mark down the most consistent measurement.
2. From your first border print cut four (4) 1 1/2” strips of your recorded measurement.
3. From your second border print cut four (4) 2” strips of your recorded measurement.
4. From your third border print cut four (4) 4” strips of your recorded measurement.
5. Sew the first and second border strips together, matching at either end.  Press the seam to the darker print.  Repeat for the other three sides of the quilt.
6. Sew the third border strip to the second border strip, matching at either end.  Press the seam to the darker print.  Repeat for the other three sides of the quilt.
7. Sew a border strip set to two opposite sides of the quilt top, matching at either end (pin at intervals along the entire length).  Press seam towards the border.
8. Sew a paper pieced cabin block to either end of the remaining two border strip sets.
9. Pin this border unit, right sides together and matching seams at borders, sew the final two borders in place to complete the quilt top.
Final pressing:  Your quilt top is now done and ready for one final pressing before being layered and basted for quilting.
Binding:  Measure the top, bottom and sides of your quilt and divide this number by 42” (width of fabric) and using the number you get, round up to the nearest whole number.  This is the number of 2 1/4” strips you need to cut for binding strips.  Using a diagonal seam, stitch these strips into a long continuous unit.  Press strip in half with wrong sides together.  Stitch to the right side of the quilt aligning raw edges as you go and mitering corners as you come to them.  Turn edge over to the back side of the quilt and hand stitch in place.
Log Cabin Mini:
This tiny quilt is also made using 16 log cabin blocks.  Make two copies of the attached pattern sheet.  Leftovers from the larger quilt can be used to construct this little mini.  If you need to cut strips as well, you can cut these into 1” widths.
Following your favourite method of paper piecing, construct the 16 log cabin blocks.  If paper piecing is new to you, do some research on-line for some of the different techniques and give each a try to see which method you prefer.
Some tips that I can give you:
1.  Reduce your stitch length to a smaller one than you usually use.

2.  Trim each seam to less than 1/4” so that it fits into the strip width of the block.

3.  Be sure to always clip your threads – you don’t want to be dealing with those when working with such a tiny project.

4.  When cutting your blocks apart on the pattern sheet be sure to leave extra paper around the dashed lines – this makes it easier to hang onto and reminds you to make sure that the fabric is wide enough to go past the seam lines on the pattern.

5.  Pressing as you go is not necessary.  The project is small enough that a quick finger press is all that is required.  If you do use your iron, remember to PRESS the blocks – do not iron them from side to side.  A final press once the blocks are completed is recommended before trimming.

Trimming and Constructing:
This is where the extra paper and fabric that you left beyond the cutting lines now becomes a factor. Each block can now be trimmed by cutting directly on the cutting line (dashed lines) and each block will be the exact same size.  This is important when sewing the tiny blocks together – all you should have to do is line up the paper edges of each of the two blocks being sewn together (right sides together), hold them tight together and sew directly on the seam line.  There really isn’t a lot of room on these little blocks for pins, so I find this is a critical step in the construction of the quilt.
There are a number of ways that you can lay out your little quilt and it is fun to play around with the blocks to see which design you prefer.  If you have a camera take shots of each of the layouts and then see which one you prefer.
Sew the blocks together into rows.  You can remove the paper from the sewn seams only if you want to remove a bit of bulk before you sew the rows together.  You can also press the seams open to make things lay a little flatter – there is a bit of bulk in a tiny quilt like this!!!
I took my mini-quilt to a frame shop and chose mats that worked best with the tones in my quilt. They had me add a wide enough border to all four sides of the quilt so that it could be stretched around a backing board (foam core or some other firm surface) that would fit into the frame I had chosen.  Once again a little research on-line can also yield some wonderful ideas for finishing your mini.  The little quilt should measure approximately 8” x 8” when done, so that would be the measurement of the mat opening – you would then be able to choose to have a 10” x 10” frame or a 12” x 12”, with the gorgeous little masterpiece centred and on display.
Working in miniature is a challenge but well worth the effort.  Have fun!!!
Star Log Cabins:  Finished Quilt Size: 40” x 40”
Mini log Cabins:  Finished Quilt Size: 8” x 8”

Spider Web Little Quilt

Hi. My name is Karen O’Connor and my husband, Kevin, and I own Red Rooster Quilts. Our quilt shop is locate in beautiful Dublin, Ohio home of the Memorial Golf Tournament and now playing the President’s Cup Golf Tournament. We have over 3500 bolts of fabric and 100+ samples on display. Please visit us when you are in town or shop on line at www.redroosterquilts.com. This is my first recipe on Moda Bake Shop and I am so excited! I love fall and Halloween and I think I have more quilts and decorations for those seasons than any other season. I hope you enjoy this little spider web quilt.

4 – The Boo Crew Mini Charm Packs by Sweetwater + 1 extra purple spider print 2″ square
1/4 yard of Moda Solid black #9900 99
1/4 yard of Boo Crew Tricky Orange #5512 21 for binding
3/4 yards of Boo Crew The Bash Green # 5510 13 for backing
1 craft size batting

1 – 2 1/2″ square Olfa ruler #QR2S
1 – Sewline Fabric Mechanical Pencil green
Best Press
Quilt Basting Spray by Sullivans
Aurifil thread

Open one mini charm pack at a time. You will need 36 of the charms. Cut each 2 1/2″ square in half on the diagonal. I like to carefully open the pack and leave them stacked neatly. I choose about 6 charms at a time to cut. You can choose however many you are comfortable with.

Sometimes the corners are not very well defined.  Just do your best to center the ruler and slice.  We will be trimming them up later so it’s not that critical that you get the exact center.

Layout your triangles like this.  It’s not critical that you put the same prints in the exact same spot as I did.  What does matter are the purples.  If you want your purples to be all the same in the center then you need to place the purple spiders in the same spots as I did.

Sew each pair of triangles together with a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.

I sewed mine just over 1/8″ of an inch. 

Press the seams towards the dark.  Lightly spray with Best Press.  I use this product because it helps keep the fabric from stretching.  And, I like the way my fabric feels while sewing with it.   
Square up each block to 2″  Using your 2 1/2″ square ruler, line the diagonal line up along the seam.  Trim two sides. 
 Flip the block around and line up the diagonal line on the seam and the cut edges on the 2″ lines.  Trim the other two sides.   

A perfect 2″ block!  Love it when that happens.

Continue to sew the triangles together and square them up to 2″.  Sew the blocks together into rows then sew the rows together to make this block:  Make 4 blocks total.

 Cutting the black:
      Cut 3 – 2″ strips. 
          Sub cut into 4 – 2″ x 9 1/2″ strips
                              2 – 2″ x 20″
                              2 – 2″ x 23″
Sew the 2″ x 9 1/2″ strip between two blocks.  Repeat for the other two blocks.

Sew one 2″ x 9 1/2″ strip to the 2″ purple block.  Then sew the other 2″ x 9 1/2″ to the other side.  Sew this strip to the blocks in the center.

Sew the 2″ x 20″ strip to each side.

Sew the 2″ x 23″ to the top and bottom. Spray the entire quilt top with Best Press and press.

Layer with your batting and backing.  I like to use the Sullivans quilt basting spay.  I lay my backing down, wrong side up and spray.  Then I fold my batting in half and lay the fold down in the center.  I smooth the half down that is on the backing.  Then I fold the other half over and smooth it down. Repeat with the top. 

I drew a diagonal line with the Sewline fabric mechanical pencil down the center of each color to make squares.  I sewed on the line with black thread.  You can see the quilting better on the back:

Binding:  I cut 3 strips 2 1/4″ x wof.  I prefer a little bit thinner binding.  Attach binding in method preferred. 

A kit is available on our web site that includes all the fabrics for the top, binding and backing for $34.99.  Backing may vary from the one used but it will be from the Boo Crew line.

Makes one little quilt ~23″ square.  It would be great as a center piece on your table with a basket of candy or a vase of flowers or with a candle.   Makes a great addition to your Halloween décor!

Karen O’Connor | Red Rooster Quilts