30-Minute Gift: Patchwork Wine Bag

Hey, gang! I can’t tell you how thrilled I am to bring you (TADA!) my first ever project for Moda Bake Shop. My name is Mary Miller and I have a little table in the blogateria that I call Spoolhardy Girl . I hope you’ll come by and visit when you are finished here. (Pssst! Can you smell the giveaway I’ve got cooking? MMMM Modalicious, if you get my drift.)

I don’t have to remind you that the holidays are quickly approaching. Parties, cookie exchanges and chaos will ensue.  I am horrible about planning ahead for hostess gifts. I usually grab a bottle of wine and call it a day.  I happen to think wine is a perfectly lovely gift. If you ever want to give me wine, I’ll be more than happy to accept. But let’s gussy that bottle up a little, shall we?

One Mini Charm Pack of a Moda fabric of your choice. I used Marmalade by Bonnie and Camille.

One 2 1/2″ x 12.5″ (or even a bit more) strip coordinating fabric. I used Bella Solid Sunshine.
One 5″x 5″ square coordinating solid (also Bella Solid Sunshine)
One sharp #2 pencil

One 5″ x 5″ Fusible Fleece
One 5″ x 5″ square of freezer paper
Dritz Elastic Threading Tool
1/4″ presser foot (Highly recommended)

All seams are 1/4″

Let’s begin! Choose 25 individual squares from your mini charm pack and line them up in a 5 x 5 square grid like so:

Sew your rows together this way:

This picture is probably unnecessary, but I just learned how to make
the little arrows and I wanted to show off.

Press your seam allowances open.

Next, sew your rows together, and press your seams open.

Take a minute to admire this pretty panel you’ve made, then set it aside for a bit.

Next we are going to work on your bag bottom. No, not your baggy bottom. I have my own baggy bottom I need to work on, I can’t help you there! Anyway, on to the bottom of your bag!
This is where your #2 pencil and your freezer paper comes into play.
Place your pencil so that it is flat up against your bottle of wine, and the point is headed directly downward.

Thank you to Mr. Wonderful for taking this picture!

Trace all the way around the bottle. Now, you could skip the freezer paper step and do this directly onto your fabric, but I have a heck of a time getting the pencil to write on the fabric, so I do it this way. I also don’t recommend using a washable fabric pen because they tend to be wider than a pencil and that puts the mark too far away from the bottle, making your bottom too big. We all know we don’t want bottoms that are too big!

Once you have your circle made, take a ruler and mark a dotted line 1/4″ away from your original line.

Bring your freezer paper template, your fusible fleece (if using) and your 5″ x 5″ piece of fabric to your ironing board. I really like the idea of using the fleece in this step because it will give your bag bottom added support and a little bit of cushioning (I’m not even going to go for the joke here. It’s just too easy).

Place the freezer paper template shiny side down onto your fabric. If you are using a printed fabric, you want the right side facing up. Press with a hot iron for about 10-15 seconds. turn this unit over so that the fabric is facing up and the paper is on the ironing board. Place your square of fusible fleece adhesive (bumpy) side down and press with a steamy iron for about 15-20 seconds.

You should now have a unit that looks like this:

Freezer paper fused to fabric which is fused to fleece.

Cut around your dotted line and remove the freezer paper. Set aside.

Next we are going to make a band for the top of your bag. Take your 2 1/2″ strip of fabric fold and press it in half lengthwise, WRONG sides together.

Bring your strip back to the panel that you made and lay it out open so that about an inch hangs off of each side.

Fold the short end of the fabric back on itself so that the fold is just barely over the edge of your panel.

Do the same for the other end of your strip. Press at the folds.

Bring your strip to the machine and top stitch both ends barely 1/8″ away from the fold.

Trim excess from the seam allowances.

Please forgive my nasty thread tangles. I was having an argument with my
machine this day!

Fold lengthwise again wrong sides together and press.  Place your folded strip piece right sides together on top of your panel piece with raw edges aligned making sure that you have a bit of the top stitched ends sticking off the ends of your panel. Sew together. Press seam toward the panel.

If you want to give your bag a nice finished look top stitch about 1/8″ away from the seam you just made. This is completely up to you, and will only add decorative appeal to your bag.

Fold your panel in half right sides together and pin raw edges.

Begin stitching down this long side just below the seam created when you sewed your band on. You don’t want to sew the band shut, you’re going to need it in a minute! Back stitch at the beginning and ending of your stitching.

How cute is this sleeve!? If I could sew a shirt I would totally make a patchwork shirt just like this. Only I can’t, sew a shirt. I just took this picture to demonstrate that you have now sewn a nice tube.

Remember that circle we made with the fusible fleece? It’s time to sew it onto your tube. Yes. You are going to sew a circle onto a tube. I’m here to tell you, this is NOT hard. You can do this. Trust me. Take a deep breath and relax your shoulders. You are going to feel like a sewing goddess when I’m finished with you!

You want to pin your circle to the bottom (not the band end) of your bag. Pin it right sides together so that the white fusible fleece is facing out. Make sure that the edges of your circle are lined up neatly with the edges of the bag. I find that 8 pins placed at equal intervals around the circle are about right.

The key to getting this right is to go slowly. Place the bag under the presser foot. This is where a 1/4″foot comes in really handy. Make sure the edge of your fabric is nestled right up against the guide of your foot and slooowwwly begin to stitch. After 4 or 5 stitches lift your foot keeping the needle down, and realign the fabric so that it stays right up against your guide. As you remove your pins, make sure that your fabric edge is still lined up with your fleece edge. Also make sure that the fabric under the foot is laying flat. That’s it. Just work your way around and you’ll be fine, promise!
Cut the excess seam allowance to about 1/8″.

There. You did it! Give yourself a little pat on the back.

We’re in the home stretch now! We just need a pretty tie.

Take the remaining mini squares from your charm pack and sew them together in one long strip.
Press seams open.

Fold your strip in half lengthwise with right sides together.

Sew down the long side and across ONE of the short sides of this strip.

Now we need to turn this tube inside out. There are tools that you can buy to help do this, but I find that a wooden skewer or dowel works just fine. Place one end of the skewer against the sewn end of your tube. I like to place the other end of the skewer on my tummy, or on my work table. Then just begin to slip the fabric down over the skewer.

Continue easing the fabric down the skewer until it is completely right side out. Then press out the wrinkles.

Remember that Dritz Elastic Threader? I have to tell you, I have never once put elastic in one of my projects, but I use this little gizmo all the time. It was a total impulse purchase at Joann’s one day, and it has become one of my go to notions. We are going to use it to get the tie through the band at the top of the bag. If you don’t have an elastic threader, don’t sweat. Just use a large safety pin.

Thread the UNSEWN end of your tie through the top notch on the threader. OR pin your safety pin to the end. Put the threader into the hole on your band and work the fabric through until it comes out the other end. Tug on the tie so that it hangs out of the band equally on both sides.

Let’s tidy up the un-sewn end of the tie. Tuck the end in approximately 1/4″ and topstitch at 1/8″.

Done! Sit back and enjoy your handy work. Maybe pour yourself a glass of wine. Just not from the bottle you’re giving away!

One pretty darn cute wine bag that fits a standard wine bottle.  If you like to give your wine away by the jug or the box, hey, go for it! I don’t judge but, sadly, this project won’t work for you. May I suggest yarn bombing?

 Mary Miller

30-Minute Gift: Business Card or Mini Wallet

 Hi! This is Kim with Lily Patch Quilts. I am sew happy to be back with another quick and fun tutorial just in time for holiday gift giving.

2 coordinating fat quarters 
1/8 yard heavy weight fusible interfacing
2 – 1/2″-5/8″sets of heavy duty snaps
Snap setting tools 
Marking tool
Medium size spool of thread (rounding corners)

Cut 2  – 4 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ from each fat quarter (2 lining, 2 outer wallet)
Cut – 4 – 4 1/2″x 7 1/2″ heavy weight interfacing 

Step 1
Iron interfacings to the wrong sides of all fabric pieces. Take the spool of thread and place at the corner where your flap will be. Mark around one side of the spool and cut on the marked line to create a rounded corner.

Here are the lining and outer pieces with the flap trimmed.

Step 2
Take the outer wallet piece with the straight side, use the socket and place a mark 1″ from the straight edge. Punch or cut out the hole. Assemble the socket and cap post according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Hammer  until the stud and post is in place. I used the tools that came with the snap plus a craft hammer. Make sure to place the snaps on a really hard surface like hardwood or tile.
Step 3
Place the lining and outer piece right sides together. 
Sew all the way around, leaving an opening large enough to turn. Clip corners.

Step 4
Turn right side out. Press to remove wrinkles. Make sure the opening is pressed even with the side seams.

Step 5
Mark a line 2 1/2″ from the straight edge.
Fold the straight edge up to form a pocket. Pin and sew around 3 sides, starting at the bottom corner and sewing around the flap to the opposite corner.

Step 6
Fold the flap down and press to make an indention on the flap. Mark a hole in the center of the indentation, cut or punch out the hole. 

Insert the socket and cap into the flap. Following the manufacturer’s instructions. Hammer the socket and cap until it’s in place. Press the flap area avoiding the snap to help the flap to lay flat.

Your business card/mini wallet is finished. 

This will make 2 business card or mini wallet. I called this a business card/mini wallet because it’s so versatile. It will hold money, business cards or gift cards. This will make a great stocking stuffer.

I would love to have you post your business card/mini wallet in the MBS’ flickr group and Lily Patch Quilts flickr group.

Kim Sherrod

30-Minute Gift: Simply Colorful Coasters


Are you ready for a quick and easy gift idea? I’m Amy DeCesare from  Pennsylvania, and I’m so happy to be the newest chef here at Moda Bake Shop! My blog is called Amy Made That!…by eamylove and I hope you’ll pop on over to visit me there. {You’re welcome to stop by any time!}

Today I’ll show you how to make a charming set of coasters to give as cute and practical gifts. These little sweeties stitch up quickly! Once you’ve gathered your materials, you can make a set in about 30 minutes. They would make an excellent project for a beginner or even a child.{I’ve been sewing for years, and I can’t stop making these. The design possibilities are unlimited!}

1/3 yard Bella Solid fabric {I chose Gray}
(8) squares from a Moda Charm Pack OR(8) 3″ squares from a Moda Layer Cake {I chose a Simply Color Layer Cake}
1/4 yard fusible interfacing, such as Pellon 987F

Matching thread
Iron and ironing surface
Pinking shears


First you will need to select your prints.
I chose to use the blue and green colorways from my layer cake.
{You could make all 8 coasters the same, or all different to coordinate.}

From solid fabric, cut background and backing pieces:
Cut (2) strips 5” x WOF
Cut each 5” strip into (8) 5” squares, for a total of (16) 5″ squares.

From the charm pack or layer cake, select (8) prints, and cut each into a 3” square.

Cut (8) 3” squares.
Cut one strip 5” x WOF: Cut into (8) 5” squares.

Fuse the Pellon 987F as follows, using manufacturer’s directions:

Fuse one 3” square to the back of each charm print, for a total of 8 coaster centers.
Fuse one 5” square to the back of each of (8) of the solid  5” squares, for a total of 8 background squares.

{The remaining (8) solid 5” squares will not have Pellon 987F fleece fused to them.}

Center one of the 3” squares on one of the background pieces which have been fused with the 987F fleece. Pin the 3” square into place.

Using a straight stitch, take a few stitches very close to the edge of the charm square.

Switch to a zigzag stitch (or another decorative stitch) and sew around all 4 sides of the charm square.  When you arrive at the starting point, change back to a straight stitch and backstitch to secure the stitches.

Now layer your finished square on top of a bottom solid square. {Your coaster will not require any turning, so place the squares just as they will appear when the project it finished.} Using a straight stitch, sew ¼” all around the outside edge of the coaster, through all layers.  Backstitch at the end to lock the stitching.

Repeat these steps to assemble the remaining coasters.

To finish, use pinking shears to trim near the stitching on all four sides.

Look how cute and cushy they are, all stacked up…

Or all fanned out! Which one will you choose?

Use a beautiful ribbon or a fabric strip to tie your coaster set for a pretty presentation.  I used pinking shears to cut a ribbon of Bella Solid 1″ x WOF.

 8 colorful and fun coasters

Don’t forget to make a set for yourself! And speaking of gifts….head on over to my blog Amy Made That!…by eamylove for a chance to win my latest giveaway!

Amy DeCesare

30-Minute Gift: Padded Steering Wheel Cover

 I’m Sarah from Sweet Dreams by Sarah, and I am incredibly excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial with you for this fun steering wheel cover!  I live in the insanely hot Arizona desert, and there are frequently times in the summer when it’s impossible to grab the steering wheel.

This cover serves to help keep that problem at bay, as well as making it much easier for those winter months when clutching a freezing cold steering wheel can make your hands ache.  It’s also completely customizable, since it’s perfect for any set of charms you might have lying around! It makes a lovely gift, too.

Please also stop by my blog for other tutorials and adventures in quilting!

10 Charms of your choosing (I used Flirt by Sandy Gervais for Moda)
1 piece of backing fabric measuring approx. 48″ by 5″
1 piece of Insul Bright Heat Resistant Batting measuring approx. 46″ by 3.5″ (Side note: if you aren’t worried about your steering wheel being too hot, and you just want it to be padded, you could use regular cotton batting in place of the Insul Bright)
2 lengths of elastic, measuring approx. 32″
4 safety pins, no bigger than about 1″ long.
Optional, but helpful: Basting spray

The first step is to measure your steering wheel!  The measurements that I will be working with are for my 14.5″ steering wheel, which is a pretty standard size.  If your wheel is a different size, your first step is going to be to measure around the circumference of the outside of the wheel.  For me, this measurement is 46″, and it will be come the length that you will need both the piece of backing fabric to be as well as the piece of batting.  Also, take this measurement and subtract 14″ – this is the length that you will need your lengths of elastic to be.  If your wheel measures more than 46″ around, you may also need to add one more charm to the first step below – see the note in that step for help with the modification.

Now that we know what we’re working with, it’s time to dive into the fabric.  Pull out your charms, and line them up.  Arrange them in the order in which you want to see them going around your wheel, and remember that this is going to be a circle – the first and last ones are going to connect to each other.

Sew the charms end to end with a scant quarter inch seam, and press the seams to one side until you have one long strip:

*Side note for larger sizes:  You’ll want to sew extra charms end to end here, so that you have a longer strip of fabric to work with.  For instance, upping it to 11 charms yields a strip about 50″ long. You can then trim it down if, say, your circumference is only 48″.  Just be careful not to trim it too short – the elastic makes having a slightly bigger wheel cover very forgiving.

Prepare your backing fabric next!  There are lots of options as to how to do this.  You could actually use another 10 charms, if you want it to be reversible (see side note above if you have a larger steering wheel).  Just follow the steps above to connect them all together.  You could also cut two 5″ strips from yardage, sew them together end to end, and then cut down to length.  The first time I made this, I actually used a scrap piece of quilt backing that I had trimmed off of a quilt I’d made just the week before, so feel free to be creative!  This is just the backing, so if you aren’t worried about making it reversible, you can use just about any piece of fabric that meets the measurements.  For this particular cover, I used one 5″ strip of backing fabric, and sewed one extra charm to the end to get the right length.  Note that the length of the backing is a couple of inches longer than the strip of charms – this gives you a little wiggle room to cover up the final seam.

The strip of charms for the outside is on the left, and the backing is on the right.

Putting it all together:

Position your backing fabric and the strip of charms right sides together, and making sure that the edges are aligned.  Pin these pieces, and then sew them together lengthwise:

Now we need to turn the long tube we just created inside out, and get the batting in the middle.  There are a couple of ways that you can do this.  One option is to turn it inside out, press it flat, and then try to wiggle the batting up the middle.  You would then just pin the batting in place before moving on to the next step.

The other way to do it, and how I did it when making this particular cover, is to use some basting spray as a helping hand.  Once you’ve sewn the cover and backing together, and before you turn it inside out, spray baste the batting to the charm side of the strip, like this:

Spray the batting, and lay it down the center (you can just eyeball it).  Make sure you press the batting on well, and then go ahead and turn it inside out.  Be gentle so that you don’t separate the batting from the fabric.

I found it easiest to hang on to the batting and fabric together on one end with my left hand: 
… while pinching the fabric and batting together and pulling it out with my right.  

Ta da!

Once it’s inside out, go ahead and press the tube and batting combo so that it’s all nice and flat.

Now, whichever way you’ve gotten your tube inside out and batting inside, it’s time to make the casings for the elastic.  Sew down the length of the tube again, this time about 1/2 inch from the already sewn edge.

You can go ahead and remove all of those pins now (if you were using them), and grab your lengths of elastic.  Use one safety pin to attach one end of the elastic to one end of the tube.  Take the other safety pin and attach to the other end of the elastic, since we’re going to use that as a bit of a shuttle to take it through the casing.

Work that safety pin up the casing, bringing the elastic along.  This will get a little tougher as you get to the end.  Once you’ve got it through the other side, it’s time to stitch it in place.  Be careful here, because that elastic already has some tension on it, and you don’t want to send it careening back into the casing!  Remove the safety pin, and holding the elastic and casing together, ease the elastic back to where it just lines up with the edge of the casing.  Use the safety pin to secure this:

Note:  Definitely use a safety pin for this part – a straight pin has a way of popping itself out when under the pressure of the elastic! 

Then sew down the elastic, using a few passes on your machine:

Sew down the elastic on the other end of the tube in the same manner, and then repeat the steps above to take care of the elastic in the casing on the other side of the strip.

The final step is to get this into an actual circular shape!  Just position the strip right sides together, so that you can sew the ends together.  That elastic will make this a bit squirrely, so pin it to keep it all together as you sew.

See that extra couple of inches of backing fabric sticking out there?  If you aren’t worried about this final seam being finished off, you could just snip it off, and be done.  For a cleaner finish, carefully fold up that extra bit of fabric to cover up the seam you just made.

Pin it in place… 
And sew! 

Pop it inside out, and voila!  Your cover is done!  It doesn’t look like much now…

… But pop it onto your wheel, and behold!

One awesome steering wheel cover, and two fewer burnt hands! These are so fun and easy to sew up, that you could easily make a couple different ones to “decorate” your car depending on your mood or the season.  I see myself making a holiday themed one, to get me in a cooler frame of mind very soon!

Sarah Connolly
{Sweet Dreams by Sarah}

30-Minute Gift: Charm Square Scarf

Hi, my name is Trish and I blog over at notes of sincerity.  Today I am going to teach you how to create a fun and cozy scarf for those cooler days that lie ahead.


1 charm pack of Patisserie by Fig Tree Quilts for Moda
 20” x WOF* of flannel in desired choice

This is actually a very easily adjustable pattern that you could increase or decrease the length of your scarf depending on what you prefer.  You could also use your favorite scraps of fabric.

First, you will need 34 of the 5” charm squares.  So pick out your favorites and place side by side in sets of two.  When the desired pairs are matched, stack together.

Sew each pair using a ¼” seam (I prefer using a chain stitch method.).

You now have 17 pairs, give seams a good little press with a hot iron.

Open pairs and press to one side.

Sew pairs together, locking center seams that are ironed in opposite directions …

… until you have the full length of the scarf.


Again, press those newly sewn seams with a hot iron.  Then press in one direction. Cut flannel in two strips measuring 9 ½” x WOF*.  Sew both pieces together, end to end with RST*, press seam with a hot iron, open and iron to one side, then cut to 76½”.

Pin scarf front to scarf back, RST*.

Begin sewing around perimeter with a ¼” seam.  Secure beginning and ending stitches, leaving a gap you will be able to put your hand in to, enabling you to turn it right side out. Once scarf is sewn, clip the corners below seams, in order to bring corners to a nice point once turned right side out.  Give seams a press with a hot iron.


Turn right side out, pushing out corners to a point.  Press perimeter carefully, making sure it lies flat.

Sew around the perimeter using a “scant” ¼” seam.  Secure seams at beginning and ending of stitches.


One 9″ x 76″ cute and snuggly scarf that looks cute with a denim jacket and makes a fun Christmas gift for those special ones in your life.

 *RST = right side together
*WOF = width of fabric

Trish Poolson