Hot Cross Candy Runner


Hello again!  This is Darci and Lacey from Pastthyme Patterns with a really quick and easy table runner project using those ever popular candy squares!!  This project comes just in time for the holidays.  It is fast project to complete for that last minute holiday gift. . .or final decoration on your holiday table.  Finished project measures approximately 12″ x 28″ in size.

 To follow more of our quilting adventures you can visit our website www.shadesofpast.com where you will find links to our Pastthyme Patterns collection, blog, Facebook page and online site where kits of this fun project can be found!!

 2 candy packs
1/4 yard- Binding
1/2 yard- Backing
1 roll- Chenille-It Blooming Bias (3/8″ width)

Begin by opening up those cute candy squares and laying them out in a 6 down by 14 across layout (as shown above)  Sew together the rows to create your table runner quilt top.

Now that our quilt top is sewn together it’s time to layer it up with your batting and backing.  (As you can see in our photo we spray baste our quilt tops–feel free to baste your runner to the batting and backing as you prefer!!)
Now we are going to add the Chenille-It. . .you know that fun fuzzy stuff!!  By putting this on the layered runner you will essentially be “quilting as you sew” the Chenille-It on. 
 Before I explain how to add the Chenille-It on the runner I want to point out a couple helpful hints.  Remember that just like the package states, the Chenille-It is cut on the bias.  It will stretch out if you pull on it while you sew, while I think over-stretching this is impossible for this project I suggest stretching it in moderation.  It is also spliced together so that you get one long continuous 25-yard roll.  You will notice that there is a “right” and “wrong” side to the splice.  Ideally you want that splice to be raw edges down but DO NOT WORRY if you end up getting your piece twisted and it ends up being right sides up.  When you rag up the Chenille-It, nobody will ever be able to spot where that splice is!!  (Trust us…we speak from experience!!) It’s not worth the ripping time!
 Now the fun part! Place your table runner on a nice, flat surface and grab your Chenille-It and scissors. Referring to the photo above you will notice that we opted to skip every other row.  We did this on purpose to sort of give this project a lattice effect.  You can pick any of the four corners you choose to begin with.  (I am going to direct you from the upper right)  Skip the upper right square. Place the start of your Chenille-It in the upper left corner of the second square and run it down, diagonally to the bottom second lower right square and cut flush.   Skip the next square. Again place the start of the Chenille-It in the upper left corner of the fourth square and run it down, diagonally to the bottom right corner of the fourth lower right square.  Now carefully bring your runner, with the Chenille-It strips over to your machine to be stitched in place.
Stitching of the Chenille-It is quite simple.  Make sure you use thread to coordinate with your Chenille-It color to help camouflage any stitches once the project is complete and simply stitch a straight seam down the center of your Chenille-It strip.  You do not need to backstitch at the beginning and end of the strip as the edges will be covered up in the binding.  Also don’t get to hung up on having your seam smack dab in the middle. . .if it’s a little off it will be just fine in the end as it will be masked by the ragginess.  Tip:  We find that because we are working with a 3/8″ width of Chenille-It that a quarter-inch sewing foot (or walking foot) works the best for sewing this stuff down.   When we use either of those feet we find that you don’t need to do any pinning because the foot holds the Chenille-It in place during the stitching.  Play around with it while you sew and do what works best for you!!
This is what your first Chenille-It strip will look like once you get your seam sewn.  As you can see my line isn’t perfectly straight. . .but is in flows through the center of the Chenille-It strip.  If yours looks like this, ya did well and it’s time to continue on!!
Continue to add Chenille-It strips like you just did in the steps above to the remainder of your table runner.  Make sure you skip a square in-between your Chenille strips.  When you are finished you should have something in front of you that looks like this.
Now if you are like me you will make a quick detour to the kitchen to grab a can of Coke and couple cookies or chips before grabbing the roll of Chenille-It again. . .
To finish up the runner top we are going to add some more Chenille-It.  You will note that we will be adding these going the opposite direction, but following the same format as last time.  For purposes of explaining I am going to direct you from the upper left corner, as shown above.
 Just like last time, you are going to skip the upper left corner.  Begin by laying the start of your Chenille-It strip on the lower left corner of the second square and roll it up diagonally to the upper right corner on the second square at the top and cut flush.  Again, you will skip a square.  Start the end of your Chenille-It strip at the lower left corner of the fourth square and again roll it up diagonally to the upper right corner of the fourth square at the top and cut flush.  Again, carefully bring your runner back to the sewing machine and stitch the Chenille-It strips in place.
Once you have those first two strips sewn you you should see something similar to this in front of you.  Continue to add strips to the project like you did in the steps above.  Again make sure you skip a square in-between your Chenille-It strips.
Once you have your Chenille-It strips all sewn down in place your table runner should look like the picture shown above.  Again, if it does, ya did well and you can trim off that excess batting and backing!!
Almost done!!  Now you get to add the binding.  Cut (3) 2 1/2″ strips for your binding.  Sew the binding onto your quilt top.  We chose to put it down hand, so if you choose to do that as well you might want to choose a movie (or TV show) and plop that binding on down. 
Now. . .the final step.  
Referencing a line from the movie “Leap Year” you can just “put it (bound table runner) in the wash.  It’ll be grand!”  Following the manufactures directions you will want to put it into the machine and wash it on a cold cycle.  You can pick up where you left off in that movie you were watching until the machine is done washing.  When the washer is done, simply toss it into the dryer and dry on a warm setting.  Finish up that move just in time for the dryer to end it’s cycle and check out your new project!
Your yield will be one “Hot Cross Candy” runner. . .perfect for a holiday gift or accessory to your table!  Your table runner will measure 12″ x 28″ upon completion.
Remember that the sky is the limit with colors.  Chenille-It comes in all sorts of fun colors to accent any project from Kansas Troubles to Bonnie & Camille and any other Moda designer’s color palate in-between!!

See?!  Even Nature’s Christmas by Sandy Gervais makes up a cute runner!

Darci Schipnewski
{www.shadesofpast.com}

Candy Bars and Candy Boxes Pillows


Hi All! I’m Heather and I blog at here.  I hope Santa left you some candy (Moda Candy, that is!) in your stocking, because we’re going to make some pillows today.
To make 2 pillows, you’ll need 2 Moda Candy packs, 2 fat quarters background fabric and 2 fat quarters pillow backing fabric.


2 Moda Candy Mini Charm Packs (From Outside In by Malka Dubrawsky)
2 Fat Quarters Background Fabric (Seed Grey)
2 Fat Quarters Print Fabric (one for each pillow back)
2 20″ squares of batting (optional)
For each pillow, one 18″ zipper (Longer is fine! I used a 20″ and trimmed down.)
Glue stick
2 18″ pillow forms

Let’s start with Candy Bars.
On you design space (wall, floor, table, whatever you have) refer to the picture and arrange your candy pieces into groups of three. Move them around until you’re happy with your arrangement. These will make your pieced “bars.”  (See that piece in the top right corner ~ the one that’s the same as the background fabric? If that bugs you, see *** below.)
From the background fabric, cut five 2.5” x 22” wide strips. Sub cut these strips into 2.5” x 6.5” long pieces. You’ll use 13 for this pillow top. Reserve the extra 2 for the Candy Boxes pillow.
Place the background candy bars into place on your design space. Your layout should look like this:
***Take your backing fat quarter of fabric. Cut it down to 18”x 19”. Set aside. See that nice little remaining strip? Cut yourself one extra 2.5” square for the Candy Bar Pillow. 
Whew, crisis averted.
Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew the three piece units into candy bars. (Chain piecing makes this go super fast!)
Sew the rows together. Press seams away from the background fabric.
Sew your rows together, matching seams.
Your pillow top should look something like this:
Candy Boxes
From the background fabric, cut four 2.5” x 22” strips. Sub cut these strips into six 2.5”x 6.5” bars and thirteen 2.5” x 2.5″ squares.
Take your candy pieces and background bars and squares and arrange as below (use your reserved two background bars from the Candy Bars Pillow.) Or, if you’re only making the Candy Boxes pillow, cut an additional 2.5” x 22” background strip and sub cut into 2.5” x.6.5” bars. 
Uh oh, wait a minute. You’re two candy pieces short of a full candy box. (Or three, if you count that one background piece of candy.)
Okay, nobody panic. Here’s what we’re going to do. Take your second piece of backing fabric. Trim as in *** above, and cut a two additional 2.5″ square candy pieces (also cut one from the other backing fabric for more variety.)
Okay, go back to arranging the blocks. You should have five 9 patch blocks with a seed grey center. You should have four alternating grey seed blocks with a patterned center. Sew the nine patch blocks together in rows. Press. Sew the rows together. Press.  For the alternating blocks, sew a background square to each side of a patterned square. Press. Sew the rows together. You should now have nice 6.5” blocks. 
Sew your blocks together in rows. Press. Sew rows together. Press.Your pillow top should look similar to this:
And here’s both pillow tops together.
Decision time. To quilt, or not to quilt. Your choice. I decided to do some simple straight line quilting. I like the added structure and texture it adds. However, if you’re in a time crunch or just not feeling it, skip the quilting. 
Time to make the pillow backs. We’re making a hidden zippered back with awesome flap/flange back. Complicated title, simple to make.
From your background fabric, for each pillow cut a piece 4” x 18”. Fold in half, length wise, wrong sides together and press. This is your flap/flange.
Take your backing fabric. Cut in half, to make two pieces 9.5” x 18”. (Or, cut into two pieces 6″ x 18″ and 13″ x 18″ or wherever you want your flap/flange to be!) 
Take your zipper and run a small line of glue from your glue stick on the top side of the zipper.  Flip the zipper over on top of the flap fabric. The zipper will now be right side facing the flap with the glued edge meeting the raw edges of the back and flap. The glue stick gives the whole unit a little more stability, a little less “wiggle room.” I use Wonder Clips to hold the layers together.
Your zipper should be face down, aligned at the left. 
At you sewing machine, switch to your zipper foot. Sew the length of the zipper. When you get close to the zipper head, leave your needle down and raise your presser foot. Wiggle that zipper head down a bit, past where you’ve already sewn to get it out of the way. Continue sewing the zipper.
Press well.
Use your glue stick and glue the remaining top side of the zipper. Lay the top half of the pillow back on the bottom half of the pillow back, right side together, and matching the edge of the zipper with the cut edge of the backing. Sew as above. Press well. You now have a pillow back with hidden zipper and awesome flap/flange! Yeah you!
Finishing: Trim your pillow top and pillow back to 18″ square. Lay your pillow top, right side up. Lay your pillow back on top of pillow top, right side down. Make sure your flap/flange is laying down nicely to cover your zipper. Unzip your zipper 3/4 of the way (this is your turning/escape hatch!) Pin all the way around. Stitch around all four sides. Clip the corner of your pillow to reduce bulk. Turn right side out. Press. Stuff with pillow 18″ pillow form (it should be nice and snug!) 
Zip up your zipper and admire your handiness. Go show the rest of the family how clever you are!


2 Deliciously Easy Pillows!


Thanks for sewing along with me. I’d love for you to stop by my blog and say “hi”!

Heather Kojan
{www.heatherkojan.blogspot.com}

Honky Tonk Mini Charm Quilt



Merry Christmas, Y’all.   I just love working with the mini charm packs, don’t you?  You can purchase a complete kit for this project from Red Rooster Quilts.  Click here to order.  Enjoy this mini charm quilt.

2 – Honky Tonk Mini Charm Packs
Background: 1/4 yard Moda Bella Solid Snow #9900 11
inner border: 1/4 Moda Marble
border:  1/3 yard Honky Tonk #37087 12
binding: 1/4 yard Honky Tonk #37083 17
backing: 3/4 yard
batting: 25″ x 28″


3 1/2″ square ruler

From the background fabric cut 3 – 2 1/2″ strips.  Cut 30 – 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″.  Cut 30 – 2 1/2″ squares.

From the 2 1/2″ squares of background fabric and from one mini charm pack, cut 30 squares in half on the diagonal like this:

 From one mini charm pack, cut 30 squares in half to make two rectangles 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ like this:

Using one background and one print of 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles, sew together like this:

Press toward dark.

 Sew the other print rectangle on like this:

From matching print fabric, sew triangle on one end like this:

 Sew other matching print triangle on other end like this:

 Press toward dark.

 Trim off tails:

 Add one background triangle like this:

 Then sew on the other background triangle on the opposite side.  Trim to 3 1/2″ square.

Layout blocks in 6 rows with 5 blocks each.  Sew blocks together into rows.  Sew rows together.

Inner Border: Cut 2  strips 1 1/2″ wide.  Sew inner border on to sides first then top and bottom.

Outer Border: Cut 3 strips 3 1/2″ wide  Sew inner border on to sides first then top and bottom.

Layer with backing and binding.  Quilt as desired.

Binding:  Cut 3 – 2 1/4″ strips.  Sew on binding with desired method.

1 mini charm quilt approximately 23″ x 26″.

Look what you can make if you change the color placement.  How about this cute arrow with some hearts for Valentine’s Day?

Please visit us at www.redroosterquilts.com or stop in our store.

Red Rooster Quilts
48 Corbins Mill Dr.

                                                                  Dublin, OH  43017

614-734-9007


Karen O’Connor
{www.redroosterquilts.com}

Holiday Baking

Happiest of holiday wishes from all of us at the Moda Bake Shop! If you didn’t have a chance to sew anything for Christmas, now is the perfect time to start working on something for next year. Here are a few projects to inspire you:

And don’t forget our latest book – Sweet Celebrations with the Moda Bake Shop Chefs – which is filled with holiday inspiration for the whole year.

Candy Stars Mini Quilt


Hello everyone!  My name is Chrissy Lux and I co-own Sew Lux Fabric with my mom.  I am really excited to be back on the Moda Bake Shop sharing another project with you today.

Moda Candy precuts (mini charms) are super cute and so easy to collect!  Here’s a fun & quick mini quilt project that could easily be enlarged to make a bigger version – just add more candy!

Fabric Needed:
76 mini charms *
1 yard solid for Background (Bella White Bleached 9900 98)
1 yard for backing (Mixed Bag Dots 32870 21)
1/4 yard for binding (Bella Etchings Slate 9900 170)

(*I used 4 packs of the New Bella Solids, which have 30 mini charms.  But most print collections have 42, so you may only need 2 candy/mini charm packs if you are going for a scrappy look.) 

Tools Needed: 
Machine & basic sewing supplies

Use a 1/4″ seam throughout. 
Step 1: Prep Background & Borders: 
From the solid background, cut the following: 
TWO 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into twenty (20) 2.5″ squares
THREE 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into twenty-eight (28) 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles
TWO 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into eight (8) 2.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles
FOUR – 3.5″ x WOF strips for borders
For this project, we’ll make two blocks – a variable star and a simple 4 patch.  You’ll need four 4-patch blocks and five star blocks.  
Step 2: Sort your Squares
Sort your candy squares into piles with five piles of 12 squares (corners & center) and four piles of four squares (middle of top & bottom row and left and right columns) as shown. 
Since I was using solids, I sorted mine by color into a ROYGBIV type of color wheel.  Because of this, I took extra time while sewing to make sure I kept things in the correct order and placement.  If you are using prints to create a scrappy look, you can certainly sew a little more carefree!  🙂 

Step 3: Make the 4-Patch Units
The 4-patch blocks are easy to whip together.  Sew two sets to two squares together.  Press in opposite directions.

Then stitch them together.

Repeat this process for the four 4-patch units. Next, we’ll add borders to complete the units.

Sew a 2.5″ strip to the top and bottom of your 4-patch unit.  Press toward the border/away from the 4-patch.

Then add the 2.5″ x 8.5″ sides.  Press toward the center.  Repeat to complete all four 4-patch units.

Step 4: Make the Variable Star Units
For these blocks, you will start by making a 4-patch for the center.   Then we’ll make and add wonky geese on the sides to create the star.

Place one candy square on top of one 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangle. (If using prints, remember to place right sides together!)  Sew on the diagonal, being sure that when you fold the square over, it will cover all of the background rectangle.

Trim away excess fabric and press toward the candy square.

Next, add another candy square opposite of the first.  Sew along the diagonal, trim away excess and press towards the candy square fabric.
TIP:  Since these are so small, I just finger press to create a crease down the diagonal as a sewing guide. If you prefer to mark with a pencil or disappearing ink, feel free. 

Trim your completed wonky geese unit to 2.5″ x 4.5″.

Assemble the star, by sewing two geese units to the top and bottom – press toward the center.

Then sew 2.5″ background squares to the sides of the remaining two geese units, pressing toward the background squares.

Then sew the side units to the center, and press away from the center.

Step 5: Assemble the Top
Now, its time to assemble your quilt top!   Start by making a large 9-patch with your 4-patch and variable star blocks.

Then add border strips to the sides and then the top and bottom.

Layer and quilt as desired.  Finish by adding binding.  (Need help binding?  MBS tutorial here.) 

You can easily make this project with prints – here is a mock up of what it might look like in Scrumptious by Bonnie & Camille.

Hope you enjoyed this project!


1 Sweet Mini Quilt approximately 30 in x 30 in.

Chrissy Lux
{www.sewlux.blogspot.com

Prairie Stars Table Runner


Hi! My name is Kymberly from Peas in a Pod Creations. I’m so excited to be back on the Moda Bake Shop today with this cute table runner. It might look hard, but with the candy charm squares it’s actually pretty easy and versatile. Be sure to scroll to the bottom of this post to see how this runner looks in solids.


4 candy mini-charm packs or 1 charm pack (for this runner I used Kansas Troubles Favorites II)
1/2 yd. dark blue fabric (this will be used for sashing, backing, and binding)
1/8 yd. cream fabric (note: you will need (10) 2.5″ square cornerstones so you could use a jelly roll strip or other scrap)

*Since the Candy mini-charms are 2.5″ square they can easily be created from larger pre-cuts if you can’t find them at your LQS. I wanted some extra fabric so I started with a layer cake, but a charm pack is the perfect substitute in this pattern if you can’t find the mini-charms.

If you’re working with something bigger than the mini-charms cut your fabric into 2.5″ squares.
Match the fabrics from your mini-charm packs and decide which colors you want to use for each star. Kansas Troubles Favorites II has several fabrics in each color so I chose to make a brown, blue, red, and green star. Choose three color/dark fabrics and three lights for each star. 
Decide which square will be the center of your star and set aside. Cut your remaining squares in half diagonally to create triangles and sew along short sides of triangles. The corners are made of 2″ HSTs that are created by sewing two small triangles together. I found an easy cheat if you don’t always have perfect points is to sew like fabrics together. This is also a great way to practice those quarter square pieces.
Sew triangles into squares and trim to 2.5″.
 I forgot to take a picture of the star points in progress, but it’s the same process as the corner units. The only difference is this time you won’t sew likes with likes. Sew a dark triangle to a light along a short side to create a larger triangle. Sew two large triangles together to create a square and trim to 2.5″.

Assemble pieces as shown, and repeat process for remaining three stars.
Cut dark yardage into 2.5″ strips and subdivide into (13) 6.5″ long rectangles for sashing. Cut (10) 2.5″ squares from light fabric for cornerstones. My favorite method for doing sashing is to sew a long strip on one edge of the block. On the last block sew a second strip opposite the first. Chain piece (8) cornerstones to the remaining strips, and choose two strips to attach cornerstones to the opposite edge. Press blocks and strips and sew a sashing strip to the top of each block. Make sure that the sashing with two cornerstones goes on the block with two strips of sashing. (If I was doing this in a quilt with more than one row I’d sew all of my blocks like this and only the last row would continue with the next step.) Attach your remaining sashing/cornerstone units to your blocks and sew blocks into a row.
I chose to quilt this table runner using a walking foot to quilt in the ditch around the stars.
One 33″x10″ table runner.
Here’s another version of this table runner made with solids and all of the blocks the same. Each star is 6″ square so the length of this table runner can easily be adjusted by adding or subtracting stars.
Hop over to my blog to see a way to use the mini charms to make matching mug rugs.
Kymberly Pease

Little Lady Ragged Bags



Today we are making a ragged tote bag that is the perfect size for little girls. It’s easy to make and fun to use.  I often give them for gifts filled with little toys or coloring books.

*2 packs of Moda Candy
*1/2 yard of white fabric (or coordinating fabric of your choice) for the lining
*1/2 yard of natural colored felt 

#1.  From your white fabric cut 66 squares that are 2 and 1/2 inches.
#2.  From your felt cut 66 squares that are 2 and 1/2 inches.
#3.  Open your Moda Candy packs!
#4.  Layer your squares for your bag.  Put 1 white square on the bottom, a piece of felt in the middle, and your printed fabric on the top.  (With the right sides facing out on both the white and the printed fabric.)
#5.  Choose two squares that you would like to place next to each other.  Place them (still stacked with the felt and white fabric) with the white fabric together in the middle.  Now your stack is 6 pieces deep!  (But don’t worry…your machine can handle it! 🙂
#6.  Once you are all stacked up sew down one side of your stack.  Then open it up!  (Your seams will be on the OUTSIDE and it will look crazy but that is ok…that is how you want it to look for this project!)
*Note:  For this project use a generous quarter inch seam.

#7.  Repeat the process for the 2 squares that you would like to attach underneath the pair you just made.  Once you are done place your two pairs of squares together with the white in the middle (your prints facing outward) and sew them together.

#8. Unfold and see the cute little 4 patch you just created!  Now repeat this process 13 more times.  (So that you have a total of 14 little 4 patches!)

#9.  Now select the 4 four patch squares that you would like to use for the front of your bag.

#10.  Sew the 4 squares together in the same manner you’ve been sewing thus far.  (With the white fabric in the middle and the printed sides out).  Once you are finished repeat this process for the back side of your bag.

#11.  Now we just need to sew up the two side pieces and the bottom piece for the bag.  Both the sides and the bottom are made up of 2 four patch squares sewn together.  The only difference between the sides and the bottom is just making sure any directional prints are going the right way on the pieces you choose for the sides.  So put together 2 side panels and one bottom panel. 

#12.  We have all of our pieces ready so now it’s time to construct our bag.  Put your front panel and your side panel WHITE sides together and sew it up!

 #13.  Next put that same side panel and your back panel WHITE sides together and sew it up as well!
 #14.  Now, I know what your thinking…it’s time add the other side panel.  But it’s not.  I mean I guess you could but I wouldn’t and don’t.  I add the bottom panel next.  So you will be sewing the bottom WHITE sides together in one long line across the front, pivot, down the side, pivot, and along the back side. 
#15.   Now add you last side panel…white sides together…sew down the front, pivot, across the bottom, pivot, and up the back.  Now your bag is completely formed.

#16.  We need to make the strap/handle now.  Sew together 10 fabric and felt sandwiches (exactly how we did in steps 4 and 5 only now we are sewing 10 together in a long strip instead of just 2).

#17.  Now sew a 1/4 inch seam down each side of your strap like shown in the photo below.
#18.  We are ready to attach the strap now!  Position it on the side panels right between the 2 small squares making up the top of the 4 patch squares as shown in the picture below.  I place the strap right behind the side panel and down inside the bag about 1 inch.  Then I sew the first strap on and continue stitching around the entire circumference keeping the 1/4 inch seam until I get to the next strap, which I sew on, and continue around the bag until I come back to the place where I began.

#19.  The only thing we have left to do is clip our seams.  Snip along all seam lines about every 1/4 inch like shown in the photo below.  Clip to the stitching but NOT through the stitching!!

#20.  When I finish my bags I always throw them in the washing machine on the rinse cycle and then into the dryer.  This will fluff up all those clipped and snipped seams and make them soft and cute.  This last step isn’t necessary but I always do it.

***NOTE***
There are other ways that these bags can be assembled.  However, I’ve made over 500 of these little guys and this is the way that I’ve found to have them best hold their shape and be the easiest to sew.


*1 little girls tote bag
(And 1 big disagreement if you happen to have more than 1 little girl!)

 Simple Simon & Co.
{www.simplesimonandco.com}