Garden Party


Hi! This is Kim and I am back with 3 fun projects to share with you. This tutorial will be for a table runner, wall hanging and lap quilt. These are all done using triangles, but you don’t have to mark them. It’s all rotary cutting.

All fabrics are from Sandy Gervais’ Lovely Collection. Instructions are given for 3 sizes. The quantities for the wall hanging and lap quilt are in parentheses.

Finished block size: 9″

1 Fat Quarter Bundle – Sandy Gervais Lovely.

You’ll need:

8 background prints
8 yellow prints
8 blue prints

Additional fabrics for the following:

Table runner – 21″x 39″


1st Border: 1/4 yd. Lovely Sandys Solid Leaf #7521-436
2nd Border: 1/2 yd. Lovely Berry Vine Daffodil #17580-14
Binding: 1/4 yd. Lovely Spring Rain #7572-436
Backing: 7/8 yd. Lovely Dots Rain #17577-13

Wall hanging – 39″ Square


1st Border: 3/8 yd. Lovely Swirl Rain #17579-13
2nd Border: 5/8 yd. Lovely Floral Garden Daffodil #17571-14
Binding: 3/8 yd. Lovely Sandys Solid Rain #7521-433
Backing: 1 1/4 yds. Lovely Floral Garen Babies Breath #17571-11


Lap Quilt – 59″ x 68″

1st Border: 1/2 yd.  Lovely Swirl Leaf #17579-16
2nd Border: 1 1/4 yd. Lovely Floral Garden Rain #17571-13
Binding: 1/2 yd. Lovely Dots Daffodil #17577-14
Backing: 4 1/4 yds. Lovely Circle Flower Rain #17574-13


Cutting Instructions
Press all fat quarters and trim sides even before cutting.

Cut the following for the quilt block assembly. Stack the fabric strips to make cutting faster.

8 background prints – Cut 1 (3, 8) 4 1/4″ strips, cut into 3 (9, 30) 4 1/4″ squares.

Cut each square on both diagonals to make 4 quarter triangles.

Cut 2 (4, 12) 3 7/8″ strips, cut into 6 (18, 60) 3 7/8″ squares.
Cut each square once on the diagonal.
When making larger quilts or all the projects use leftover strips to get the quantity desired.

8 yellow prints – Repeat cutting instructions as background prints.
8 blue prints –  Repeat cutting instructions as background prints.

Stack the triangles by size and color.

Borders and Binding

1st Border – 3 (4, 6) 2 1/2″ strips WOF

2nd Border – 3 (4) 4 1/2″ strips WOF
                    (8) 5 1/2″ strips for lap quilt WOF

Binding – 3 (5, 7) 2 1/4″ strips WOF

Block Assembly

Sewing the center square. Take one small blue and one small yellow triangle, sew them together following images below. Sew a total of 3 (9, 30) center squares. Set aside.

Sew each large blue and yellow triangles to a background triangle to make  half square triangles. You should have 6 ( 18, 60) blue half square triangles and the same amount for the yellow half square triangles.

Sew the small yellow and background triangles together (6, 18, 60).

Repeat for the small blue and background triangles (6, 18, 60).

Sew the quarter square triangles to each blue and yellow triangle.

 Sew the block together following the image below. Sew a total of 3 (9, 30) blocks.

For the table runner, sew 3 blocks together horizontally.

For the wall hanging, use a 3 x 3 layout.

For the lap quilt, use a 5 x 6 layout.

Border Assembly

As you sew the borders onto the quilt top, trim off excess and press towards border fabric.

Table runner 
1st Border – cut one strip in half. Sew to left and right side of quilt top. Sew the remaining strips to the top and bottom.

2nd Border – repeat assembly instructions as 1st border.

Wall hanging
1st Border – cut one strip in half. Sew to left and right side of quilt top. Sew the remaining strips to the top and bottom.

2nd Border – Sew the strips to the left and right side of quilt top. Sew the remaining strips to the top and bottom.

Lap Quilt
1st Border – cut one strip in half. Sew each half strip to one strip WOF. You will have two. Sew onto top and bottom of quilt top.
From the remaining strips, sew two strips together. Repeat for the remaining two strips. Sew to left and right side of quilt top.

2nd Border – Sew two strips together. Repeat for the remaining strips. You will have 4 pieced sets. Sew to top and bottom of quilt, then right and left side of quilt.

Quilt as desired.

Backing

Table runner – yardage will fit top.
Wall hanging – yardage will fit top.
Lap Quilt – cut fabric in half, sew along length of fabric.

Binding
Sew the binding strips together to form one continuous strip. Sew binding to quilt top.

One table runner, wall hanging and lap quilt. You will have extra fat quarters. Hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial.

Kim Sherrod
{kimsherrodstudio.blogspot.com}

Pillows Gone Wild


Hey there! It’s been a little while. If you don’t remember me, I’m Natalia from Piece N Quilt. I love to blog, sew, design and machine quilt. If you have a second, stop by my blog and say hi. 🙂

Today I’m sharing a tutorial for a few pillows. This tutorial actually started out as a tutorial for just one pillow but somehow things got a little carried away (hence the name, Pillows Gone Wild) and now I’m sharing 5 pillow tutorials in one!

1 Hometown Layer Cake
1/2 yard coordinating fabric for backing for each pillow
1 yard coordinating grey
1 yard coordinating ivory


I will be sharing instructions/tutorial for each of the 5 pillows.
First up.
Square in a square 18″ pillow.

Start by cutting your center square to 7 1/2″x 7 1/2″

Next cut four ivory strips,
2 strips 2″x10″
2 strips 2″x13″

Now take one layer cake square cut it down to 8 1/2″x8 1/2″ then cut it into quarters.

Lastly, cut two layer cake squares into halves.

Sewing it all together…
Begin by sewing the layer cake square that was cut into quarters onto the center square. For the best result, sew opposite sides then press, then sew the other opposite sides.

Next, sew the ivory strips onto the outside.
First the shorter strips.
Second the longer strips.

Now sew the two layer cakes that were cut in half onto the outside of the block.

Again for the best result, sew opposite sides first.
Square up the pillow to 18 1/2″ square.
Now prepare the backing and finish the pillow.

Click here for our free Zipper tutorial.
Click here for our free Pillow Form tutorial.

Next pillow.
X’s

Start by choosing 8 contrasting layer cake squares.

For each of the x’s cut one strip that is 10″x 3 1/4″

Also cut two 2 1/2″x2 1/2″ squares from each of the X prints and then cut into halves (ending up with 4 triangles from each print).

Sew the points onto the ends of the long strips.
You will have one long strip for each X.

For the sides of the X’s you will cut:
Two short X print strips that are 3 1/4″x4″

Sew one of your points to the end of each of those strips.
From the background print cut the four background prints into 6 1/2″x6 1/2″ squares and then cut those into quarters.

Now, sew those background pieces onto  the sides of the shorter X pieces.
You will need two of these for each X.

Sew those side strips onto the long center X strip.
You will have four X blocks like the one below.

Sew those 4 X’s together.

Now prepare the backing and finish the pillow.
Next up.
Angles
Begin by cutting
9 – 4 1/2″ squares.
Cut those in half diagonally.

Next from 9 different prints cut a 2 1/2″x10″ strip.
Sew a triangle onto one side of each of the nine strips.

Press the strip in half.

Cut as shown in the image below.

This will give you nice points on the 2 1/2″strip.

Now sew a triangle onto the other side of the block.

Repeat until you have 9 angled blocks.

Sew the blocks together side by side in three rows.

Now prepare the backing and finish the pillow.
Next up.
Squares and Knots
From your layer cake pick out 16 prints and grab 1/4 yard ivory.
From those prints cut 16 – 2 1/2″ squares, 12 – 2 1/2″ squares from the ivory, 5 strips and two strips.
Sew the squares together into four strip sets as shown in the image below.
Using the larger strips, sew those rows together into pillows.
I machine quilted the pillow top before putting it completely together.
Next, adding the knots.
Knots are a fun little element that can add a lot of detail to a simple pillow.
After pillow top is quilted Sew a 2″x6″ strip onto each corner as shown in the image below.
You will do the exact same thing to the prepared pillow back.
When you sew the back of the pillow to the front of the pillow instead of sewing straight across the corners, you will sew out and around each of the four knots.
When the pillow is turned right side out it will look like the image below.
After you have inserted the pillow form simply tie those tails in knots.

Last but not least.
Inside out.

This pillow will require yardage.
You will need 1/8 yard three different prints.
Cut the three outer prints into 2 1/2″xWOF strips and then cut the center print into a 2 3/4″xWOF strip.
Sew the strips together side by side.

Press.

Cut into four sections using a 45* angle.
Sew those four pieces together first into two large triangles and then into one large square.
I machine quilted the pillow before adding the backing.

Add the backing…
Keep the pillow inside out. Measure in about 2″ from each point and sew across each corner, as shown in the image below.

Turn the pillow right side out and you will end up with more of a boxy pillow.

It’s fun to see how many pillows you can make from one layer cake.
I actually made a couple from each of these patterns and it was all from just one layer cake!
Enjoy.

I did machine quilt each of the pillow tops before putting the pillows together.


Natalia Bonner
{Piece N Quilt}

Jelly Roll Floor Pillows

Hi everyone!  It’s Val over at PinkPlease! bringing you another double recipe.   Taking a spin off my last Moda Bake Shop recipe, Just Playin’ Around {Baby Changing Pad & Matching Play Mat}, I wanted to show you another fun creation you can make using the circular quilt pattern.  With just one Jelly Roll (plus some extra fabric for the back and piping), you can make two matching oversized floor pillows.

I am teaming up with the Fat Quarter Shop to help you with your Sherbet Pips collection (or any other Moda fabric) so that you can make a few pillows of your very own.  If you’d like a chance to win a $25 gift certificate to The Fat Quarter Shop, stop on over to my blog for a giveaway today!

One Sherbet Pips Jelly Roll by Aneela Hoey

2 1/2 yards of fabric for the pillow bottom

1/2 yard of fabric for the piping
6/32″ Cotton Piping (95″ long for the small pillow and 140″ long for the larger pillow)

2 packages of 1 ½” Cover Button Kits  (You will need to make 4 fabric covered buttons)

Stuffing (4 bags of 24oz. poly-fil will fill both pillows. If you are just making the large pillow, you will need 3 bags.)

Fishing Wire or Super Strong Beading Thread.
One Extra Long Needle (I used a darning needle)

***Most seam allowances are a ¼”, unless indicated.***

***Read the entire recipe before starting.  By doing this, you will learn how to use the scraps of the larger pillow to make the top of the smaller pillow.

***You may want to use a stronger needle (90/14) since it gets pretty crowded in the middle as you finish up the pillow top.  If all you have is an 80/12 needle, you should be fine, just go slowly when you are going through the thick center, so your needle doesn’t break and fly at you.***

Creating the large pillow
          
1. Cut the entire Jelly Roll in half, creating 80 (2 1/2″ x 22″) strips.

2.  Set out all your strips in a circular pattern to decide how you’d like your pillow to look.  You will need approx. 68-74 strips. 
3.  Choose your first strip and lay it right side up on your cutting mat.
4.  Cut the strip diagonally lengthwise starting at the top right corner and cutting to 1/4″ over from the bottom left corner (see close-up photo).  This 1/4″ provides the necessary seam allowance for attaching the next strip.  Make sure the selvage is always the widest part of your strip (this will be the outside edge of your pillow top).
 
5.  Here is what the first piece looks like after it’s cut.
The piece of the left will be used for the large pillow top,
the scrap on the right will be used for the smaller pillow top.
Save the scrap you just cut!  This will be used to make the smaller pillow top.
6.  With right sides together, pin (if you choose) and sew your second full uncut strip to the first diagonal piece, sewing from the outside (selvage end) of the strip to the middle/inside.

7.  Press seams open.
8.  Place the two pieces you’ve sewn together right side up on your cutting mat.  Cut the second strip (on the right) as you did in Step 4 (above), starting from the top right corner and cutting on the diagonal down the length of the strip to 1/4″ over from the bottom left corner of the second strip.
9.  With right sides together, sew the third full strip to the second diagonal piece.

10.  Press seams open and trim that strip as you did in steps 4 and 8.
UPDATE!!!!!   I have added the next two pictures after a few readers have made the pillows and have gotten a small hole in the middle of their pillow after they have sewn all the way around the circle.  To avoid this hole, it is imperative that you do this next step.
10a.  As you begin to sew around the pillow, you may notice that the strips don’t always line up perfectly in the middle.  (Usually after about 10 or so strips).  You will need to trim it up starting at the outside edge of the pillow and coming right to the center of the pillow.  Below, I have drawn a line where I “trimmed it up” once and another line where I still need to “trim it up.”  Even though it looks like you are ruining the pillow by chopping off some of the center, you will never be able to tell once the pillow is complete. 
I promise! 

Here it is after “trimming it up.”
11.  Repeat this adding/cutting/trimming process with the remainder of the strips all the way around the circle.
12.  When it is time to sew the final seam connecting the last diagonally cut strip to the beginning first strip, I have found that it is most effective to sew this strip starting from the center of the pillow top and sewing toward the outside to make sure everything lines up nicely.  Sew slowly, so your needle can get through all those layers without breaking (and taking out an eye!)
13.  After you have sewn the last strip to the first, press the final seam open.  As you will notice, the middle gets a little crazy.  When pressing, don’t worry about the middle so much.  Let it go where it wants to go.  Just make sure to press the seams open as well as you can on the outer portion of the pillow top.
14.  When your pillow top is complete, it may be a little wonky at the outside edge.  An easy way to trim it up is to fold in half and then fold that half in half.  You will now have 1/4 of a circle.
15.  Find a ruler, a piece of string, or a ribbon (whatever you have close by).  Holding it at the center of the circle, measure the shortest distance to the outside edge of the pillow top.  I cut a ribbon to the shortest distance and dragged it across the edge of the 1/4 circle marking where I will need to trim.
16.  Use the ribbon or ruler as if it were a protractor, marking the distance all the way across the ¼ circle so the when you cut along the line, it will be a perfect circle.  Trim along the line.
17.  Create your pillow bottom.  You can either piece together scraps, use one large piece, or create another “pillow top” and make this a reversible pillow.  I pieced together strips from the gray Sherbet Pips colorway.
18.  Lay the pillow bottom face up on the floor.  Next, lay your pillow top face down directly on top of the pillow bottom.
19.  Trim the pillow bottom to match the pillow top.
20.  Now it is time to make the piping.  Piece together a strip of fabric that is 3”x 140″.  Lay the cotton piping on top of the strip.
21.  Fold the fabric over the piping.
22.  Put on your zipper foot and move the needle as far to one side as possible so that it is as close to the piping as you can get it without sewing through it.   Start sewing a straight line all the way down the piping leaving 2” unsewn at the beginning of the strip.
23.  Pin your piping in between the pillow top and bottom making sure to put the open side of the piping on the outside of the pillow sandwich.  I pinned mine so that I had at least a 1/2” seam allowance and approx. 1/2″ sticking out of the sandwich.
24.  Use lots of pins!!!
25.  Take a look at the pillow bottom to make sure you pinned the fabric far enough in on the back that you catch the fabric plus have extra fabric to trim away in step 30.  You don’t want to sew around the entire pillow and then realize that you’ve missed a part of the back and have to redo.  It is best to catch it now!
26.  After pinning all the way around the circle, stop when you have about 3 jelly roll strips left. (This will be the opening to stuff your pillow).  Leave the remaining piping dangling.  It is good if you have more than enough left there to finish up the circle. We will cut it down later.
27.  Begin sewing 2″ in from where you put your first pin (don’t forget to backstitch a few stitches to lock in your seam so that when you are stuffing the pillow, the thread won’t come out).  The reason you leave a little bit of it unsewn at the beginning is to make it easier to finish the piping after you have stuffed your pillow.
28.  Keeping your zipper foot on, put your needle all the way to the left in order to sew as close to the piping as possible.  I like to put my finger right in front of where I am about to sew in order to help the needle get super close to the piping.
29.  Sew all the way around the circle as close to the piping as possible.  When you get to your last pin, back stitch a few stitches and cut your thread (leaving the 3 jelly roll strips still open).
30.  Now trim off all excess fabric around your circle leaving 1/4” of fabric on the outside of your seam.  I used pinking shears, but this is not necessary.  Don’t cut too close to your seam or the seam may come out at that spot.  It is better to leave more fabric on the outside edge than not enough.
31.  Turn your pillow right side out through the hole that you left open. 
32.  Stuff your pillow.  I used 2 ¾ (24oz.) bags of Silky Soft poly-fil.  This stuffing is seriously soft!   Use whatever you can find though…stuffing from old pillows, bean bag filling, etc.  (However, if you do bean bag filling, you may need to make an inner liner to hold them all in.)
33.  When you are ready to sew the pillow shut, you will want to bring the two sides of the piping together because you should have extra piping that needs to be trimmed down. 
34.  Trim off the excess piping, but leave the fabric that was wrapped around it. 
35.  Fold in the edge of the excess fabric to give it a finished look, and then wrap it over the other side of the piping to complete the circle and pin it shut.  (If your piping doesn’t meet perfectly together, no one will anyone ever notice!)
36.  Now, you can either blind stitch the pillow shut by hand or use the zipper foot again to top stitch it closed.  I took the lazy quick route and sewed the pillow closed.  I used the right side of the zipper foot this time, moving my needle all the way to the right.
37.  Now the fun part….time to make your covered buttons!  For each pillow you will need two buttons.  I used Dritz’ Cover Button Kit (size 1 ½”) which was the largest button I could find at Joann Fabrics. 
38.  These are super simple to make.  Especially the large buttons.  Just follow the instructions on the back of the kit.  The kit has everything you need in it to make the button (other than the fabric that you want to add to it).
You can make some seriously cute buttons with Sherbet Pips!!!

39.  Taking the largest needle you have, I used a Darning needle (but I am sure there are larger ones out there that I don’t know about), thread it with strong beading thread or fishing wire.  I originally tried it with regular polyester thread, but it broke when I pulled the thread tight. 
40.  Attach your thread to the button that you want on the front of the pillow.  Doubling up the thread wouldn’t be a bad idea!  Send your needle through the center of the pillow top.
41.  Pull the needle out on the bottom of the pillow and send your needle through the hoop of the back of the 2nd button.  Send the needle back up to the top and go back through the hook on the top button.  Do this over and over (about 3-5 times).  When you think it is secure enough, pull the thread tight in order to tuft the pillow in the middle.
42.  When you are ready to tie off the thread, first wrap your thread around the bottom of the button a few times to make a shank.  Then knot your thread and cut.
Ta Dah!
You just finished a beautiful jelly roll pillow!
Creating the smaller pillow
Now, using all the scraps that you just cut off from the first pillow, let’s make another pillow!
This is going to use the same process, only it will be much faster because you’ve already cut all your strips.
Take your first two strips and sew them right sides together.
Press open.
Add next strip and press open.
Trim up your strips.
Continue all the way around the circle.
Repeat the exact same steps to make the smaller pillow as you did above to make the larger one.





There you have it… two pillows with one jelly roll!
One floor pillow measuring 40″ in diameter and a smaller pillow measuring 28″ in diameter.

I really hope you are able to follow along with this tutorial.  I can’t wait to see your creations.   Don’t forget to stop by my blog for a Giveaway sponsored by The Fat Quarter Shop. 

Val Campbell

Fa La La Christmas Bunting


Hi I am Lynne, a UK quilter who blogs at Lily’s Quilts.  In this tutorial, I am going to show you how to make a quick, easy and fun Christmas bunting.  If you do make bunting, Christmas or otherwise, from this tutorial, I would love you to come and show me the pics in my Lily’s Quilts Flickr group.


One charm pack and 1 1/2″ yds fabric for backing and binding.  If you made the Union Jack Shabby Chic Wall Hanging, you will have charms left over to make this bunting.  If however, you did not, you will need to cut two extra 5″ squares from your binding and backing fabric to make the 44 squares needed.  You will cut these at step 2 of the instructions.

1. Sew together 30 background charms into pairs and then sew those pairs of charms into one long strip.

2.   Take a strip of wadding roughly 12″ deep and 75″ long.  If you need to join two pieces end to end – butt up the two edges and run a wide zig zag across the seam.  Make a strip of backing roughly 12″ deep and 75″ long – you can do this by joining two 13″ WOF strips of backing fabric and trimming to size.  You can cut your extra two 5″ squares from the ends of this strip of fabric.

3.   Baste as preferred to make one long skinny quilt sandwich.  Take a small bite.  Ooh silly me, this is a fabric recipe not a food recipe.  Do not take a bite.

4.  Mark zig zag lines along the quilt sandwich as shown in this picture.  I am using washable felt tip pens – these lines will disappear into the bunting binding so go wild and pick the clashiest colour you can find.  Go on. Live a little.  I chose green.  The safe choice for Christmas bunting.  I’m British.  We don’t do wild so much.

5.   Sew a long stitch basting line (on the machine) 1/8″ of an inch from the top and the border of each triangle to hold the three layers together until binding.

6.  Print out or draw out the letters HAPY CRISTM or the letters you need for whatever else you want your bunting to say.  I opened a Word document, chose the font Adamsky Outline SF, enlarged the letters to 400 and printed the sheets out.  For a more informal look, mix up upper case and lower case letters or perhaps choose letters from different fonts.  Hold your printed letters up against the triangles to check that they are big enough but do not come too close to the edge of the triangles or the edges will get lost in the binding.

7.  Trace the letters IN REVERSE onto a fusible webbing.  Hold up to the window or place on a lightbox if you cannot see the letters clearly enough.  For those of you with advanced spelling abilities, you may calculate which letters you need to trace more than once.  For the rest of us, you need to trace A, P, H and S twice.  (Can you see I ran out of space and had to cut one of my “S”s in half?!

8.   Cut out the letters roughly and fuse to the back of 14 green charm squares.  Cut along the lines.

9.   Fuse the letters to the bunting fabric, aligning them within the triangle shapes made on the fabric with your zig zag markings.  The bottom of the letter should be toward the pointy part of the triangle.  For a more informal look, place the letters at slight angles rather than dead straight.  I like dead straight for Christmas.  Perhaps for a children’s party bunting, I’d like a bit of wonk though.

10.  Sew around the letters in the stitch of your choice.  I have used a straight stitch about 1/8″ inside the shape of the letters.  If you do not have sufficient contrast between your letters and background fabric, you might wish to sew this line in a thick satin stitch to provide a clear edge to the letters.

11.  Cut along the zig zag lines to makes lots of triangles like this one.

12.  Cut 7 1″ WOF strips of binding fabric.  Cut each strip in half so that each is 22″ long or thereabouts.  Bind the two points side of the triangle.  First sew the binding strips to the first edge of the front of the triangles stopping 1/4″ short of the point and doing a few reverse stitches for strength.

13.   Fold the binding strip up aligning it with the edge of the triangle as shown in the picture and then back down again.

14.  Sew along the second side of the triangle once again attaching the fabric with a 1/4″ seam.

15.   Fold the bunting to the back and pin from the wrong side of the bunting and then sew down.  Since my bunting hangs against a wall, I cheat here and do not fold the binding under and hand stitch as I normally would with a quilt but machine sew it down from the right side.  OK the back isn’t the prettiest thing you’ve ever seen but I won’t be seeing it when it’s hung up on the wall.  If your bunting will be hanging so that you can see the back or if it is a gift or being made for sale, you may prefer to fold the bunting under and hand stitch it down as with a regular quilting binding.

16.   Trim the hanging ends of binding from the tops of the triangles.

17.   Now cut four 1 1/2″ WOF strips of the fabric you have chosen to go along the top of the bunting which I will call the hanging ribbon.  Sew into a long strip using diagonal joins as you would do if you were making a quilt binding.

18.   Press in half along the length and then fold in the sides and press again to make one long double-folded strip.

19.   Pin the bunting triangles into hanging ribbon starting about 15″ along from the end of the ribbon and leaving roughly 1″ spaces between the triangles.  Sew along the top side of the hanging ribbon as close to the edge as you dare, aiming to go through both layers of hanging ribbon as well as through the triangles

VOILA – one Fa La La charm pack Christmas bunting.  Take it outside in the summer sunshine, hang from some gates, take a photo and pack it away into the Christmas decorations box for a few months.

Then, in December, go into the attic, get down the Christmas decorations box, pull out your Christmas bunting, don your gay apparel and deck the halls with boughs of holly.



One Fa La La La La Christmas bunting decoration.

Lynne Goldsworthy
{Lily’s Quilts}

Christmas Traditions Advent Calendar


It’s Christmas in July!!!  Hi everyone, it’s Melissa from Happy Quilting 🙂  Don’t you just love the Christmas season???  So full of joy and magic, and of course, lots and lots to do 🙂  Each year I find our schedule gets more and more packed as we add in new Christmas Traditions.  Last year, I sat down on Nov 30th and wrote down a list of all the Christmas joys, traditions, parties, etc that we didn’t want to miss out on.  Then I looked at the calendar and started plugging things in.  It worked out pretty great and took away so much holiday stress and most importantly kept the Christmas Spirit in the home.  So this year, I want to keep that same spirit alive but of course, turn it into some quilted goodness.

So with that in mind, I came up with the Christmas Traditions Advent Calendar.  Each day from Dec 1st to the 24th, you will find a little scroll tucked underneath the flap (or you can do a pocket if you prefer, there are instructions for both) .  Each morning Mom, Dad, or one of the kids get to pull out the scroll and find out what Christmas Tradition we will do that day.  Some are big, (like seeing the lights, building a snowman, or going caroling) and some are small, (like reading a Christmas story, having hot chocolate with marshmallows, or singing our favorite Christmas songs together.) But most importantly, we don’t miss out on any of our favorite Christmas Traditions and we keep the holiday spirit in our home all month long 🙂

So would you love to make a Christmas Traditions Advent Calendar??  Well great, just pop on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has worked up an adorable Christmas Traditions Advent Calendar Quilt Kit just for you 🙂  And as always, at great Burgundy Buttons prices.  Hurry, supplies are limited!!

And as always, if you have any questions you can email me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) come.  And if you make this project I would love to see it.  Email me a picture or add it to my flickr tutorial page 🙂 And you can always find me at my blog Happy Quilting to see what I am up to 🙂

2 Flurry by Kate Spain Charm Packs
2 White Bella Solids Charm Packs
1/2 Yard of Red Snowflake Print #27089 21
1/2 Yard of  Green Snowflake Print #27089 23
1/8 Yard of Blue Snowflake Print #12
1/2 Yard of White Peppermints Print #27087 14  (binding)
1 Yard of White Christmas Print #27084 13   (backing)
Heat and Bond Lite  (some yardage and at least 35 cut 5 x 5 squares)
Red and Green ribbon.

There is one print in this picture that it turned out I didn’t use –  Just FYI 🙂

It is easiest if you sort your charms into color coordinated piles now  (that top one of the red pile isn’t really “red” but put it with that pile anyway 🙂  The charms with the ovals I did not use, however there are times when you can use them, I just choose to go without them.  I will mention it when they can be used.

STEP 1 – APPLIQUÉ


So obviously, this project has a lot of applique in it 🙂  Start by grabbing your green and red charms.  Sort them into two piles of red and two piles of green that are identical to each other (there are 2 charm packs here so you will have some repeat prints in each pile).  Set one red and green pile aside to be used later.

You now should have 12 green charms and 12 red charms (yes we are still calling that green, blue, and red print a red charm).  You need to cut out 24 Christmas appliqué’s for the 24 days. Half will be in red and half will be in green – see how well that works out?

Start by placing a square of Heat N Bond (texture side down) onto the wrong side of the fabric of your first charm.  Press with iron.  Now using the templates at the bottom of this tutorial, draw the image of your appliqué onto the Heat N Bond.  Lastly, Cut out the image and remove the paper side of the Heat N Bond.  Repeat this process for all 24 charm squares (I did 3 of each Christmas image).

Next you want to do the number appliqué.  I choose to do these on the Bella Solid Charm squares but if you like, you can do them on the white print flurry squares.  It is your choice.  We will do the numbers in the same fashion as the Christmas images with one big exception.  Use the template from the bottom of this tutorial of the numbers but when you draw the images, make sure you draw the numbers backwards so that when you turn the number over, it will be facing the right direction.  You can get 4-5 numbers out of each charm square.  You want to cut out the numbers one to twenty-four.

Now it’s time for a little sewing.  I am sure your fingers can use the break from cutting 🙂  Place a Christmas Image appliqué onto a White Bella Solid Charm square and center it. You can just eyeball this.  Press the appliqué to fuse it to the charm square.  Repeat this process for all 24 Christmas image appliqué’s.

Now you can move over to your sewing machine.  You will want to sew around each Christmas image appliqué to secure it to the charm square.  I choose to do a blanket stitch but you are welcome to do a straight stitch for raw edge appliqué or a zig-zag stitch.  Whichever you prefer.  I also choose black thread to really make these appliqué’s pop, but once again, you do what you like 🙂  Repeat for all 24 squares.

So now you have your 24 appliqué charm squares and you are ready to number them. I just realized I took this picture before I actually did the blanket stitch, oops 🙂  Now you want to figure your layout before attaching the numbers.  I choose to alternate the green and red pattern with that “special” red being day 24.  Once you have a layout you like, you are ready to start adding numbers.  (Side note . . . I did my numbers in numerical order but you can mix them up if you prefer)

You attach the numbers the same way you did the Christmas Image appliqué’s.  I found it best when layering the numbers, to completely sew around the first number before ironing on the second.  It just made less starting and stopping 🙂   You guessed it, Repeat for all 24.

Now you are ready to do the last set of appliqué which is the Merry Christmas banner at the bottom. Using the letters template including in the Printer Friendly Version, cut out the words “Merry Christmas” from the 1/8th of a yard of the blue snowflake print. I didn’t take any pictures of this as I figure you are a natural by now 🙂

Move onto making the backing for the Christmas banner.  Grab 9 White Bella Solid charm squares and sew them together using a 1/4″ seam allowance end to end.

Press your seams open on the banner.  Now trim off 1 3/4″ off of both ends of the banner to get the appropriate size.

Now you are ready to place your appliqué.  I found it easiest to lay my ruler one inch up from the bottom of my banner as a line to place everything on.  (I did have the “y” sink down below, just don’t go down to far as you have to sew a 1/4″ around this)  Once you have everything placed perfectly, press to secure your appliqué.   

Use your desired method of stitching to secure your appliqué to the banner.  Once again, I choose black thread to really make this pop!  Oh, and don’t worry about those seam lines, you can’t see them once this is quilted. And that is the end of the applique!!!



STEP 2 – MAKING FLAPS or POCKETS


With your appliqué all done, you are ready to move on to making the flaps or pockets for your calendar  Start by finding the red or green print charm square (those you set aside earlier) that matche the Christmas image appliqué of the square you are working on.  Place the two squares right sides together.  Now pin around the edges.  Repeat for all 24 charm sets.

Now to sewing.  Use the following guide for sewing. You are leaving the opening in the top to turn the piece inside out.   Once again, you want to be 1/4″ from the edge.  And make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end so your stitches don’t pull out when you turn the entire thing inside out.  Repeat for all 24 🙂

Now turn your flap or pocket right side out using the hole that was left in the top.  Make sure to use a pen or small pointed tool to push out all your corners and seams.  Repeat for all 24.

Tuck the raw edges under at the top (they will fold naturally) and press the entire square.  Repeat for all 24.  You can now set these aside for a little bit.  Aren’t they just adorable?!

STEP 3 – MAKING ROW PIECES


Now you are ready to make the backing that you will be attaching your flaps or pockets to.  Start by grabbing 11 charm squares out of your ‘blue” pile .  This is where I choose to leave out the solid blue and the blue snowflake print from the appliquéd, just a personal choice.  You are going to cut the 11 charm square into four 2 1/2’ x 2 1/2″ squares.  Just cut in half vertically and then without moving the pieces, cut in half horizontally.  Repeat for all 11 charm squares and then set the squares aside.

Now you need to cut the rows to do some strip piecing for the sashing. You will be doing the next 2 sets of instructions for both the red and green yardage 🙂  Align the folded edge of your yardage along the 0 horizontal line on your mat.  Align your ruler up along the marks on vertial marks on the top and bottom of your mat and cut a nice straight edge to start with.  Now measure over 1 1/2″, align your ruler along the top and bottom again and cut a 1 1/2″ strip.

 

Without moving your already cut strips, keep moving over 1 1/2″ until you have cut nine 1 1/2″ strips.  Now align your ruler along the horizontal line at the top of your strips to trim off the selvage edge.  Repeat for the green.

Now for some strip piecing.  Strip piecing is a great way to speed things up and save time.  Take a green and red strip and place them right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam all the way down the side of the strip.  There is no need to pin, you can just align as you go.  If the ends don’t come out perfect, no worries 🙂  Just keep feeding strip sets through until all 9 have been sewn.

Now clip the threads between sets and press your seams.  You can press to one side or open.

Lastly, you are going to cut your strip sets into the sashing sizes.  Start by trimming a little off the end just so you start with a nice straight line.  Now measure over 5″ and cut.  You will be able to get 8 sashing pieces out of each strip set.  You need 66 sashing pieces, so cut 8 out of 8 strip pieces and 2 sashing pieces out of the final 9th strip piece.


STEP 4 – SEWING ROWS TOGETHER

Now that all your pieces are cut, you are ready to put your rows together.  First are your border rows.  There are 2 layouts for these and you will be doing three rows in each layout.  Notice, they look similar but the red and green are opposite.  Be careful not to mix them up 🙂  

Start by laying the first piece in the row onto the second piece in the row with rights sides together.  There really isn’t need to pin as you are dealing with such small pieces and no seams but you can if you like.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Continue adding on piece by piece of your row in this fashion until the row is complete.  (I found it easiest to stack up my rows so I didn’t have to go back and forth a lot 🙂  Repeat for all 6 rows (3 sets of the 2 layouts) and then press the rows.

Next you are going to sew the background rows.  You will need 4 of these rows.  The layout is as follows.  The red and green on the ends don’t matter here because you can just flip it as needed.

You will sew these 4 rows in the same fashion.  Lay your first piece of the row onto the second piece with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam.  Then continue adding on piece by piece until the row is finished.  Once again, stacking helps. Repeat for all four rows and then press.

Lastly, you need to add the borders onto the Merry Christmas banner.  Now before doing this, (if you are doing the same color alteration as me) just double check that your #19 is going to coordinate with this side.  Meaning, my #19 is a green print, so I want an inner red border around it. I need to make sure that the row below has a green outer border.  Hence the Green strip closest to the M in Merry.  (If I totally just confused you just look down at the first picture under step 5 to see what I am talking about).

You attach these two row ends the same as you did your other rows.  Lay the two pieces onto the edges of the borders with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam and then press.

Now all your rows are done.   You should have 1 Merry Christmas banner, 4 background rows, 3 sashing rows that start in red on top and 3 sashing rows that start with green on top.  You with me 🙂  Great, let’s move on!!!


STEP 5 – SEWING TOP TOGETHER
Okay, so now you are ready to layout your top.  Once again, double check that your appliqué prints are going to be the opposite color of your inner squares.  You can also choose to mix up the color squares if you like, so the top and bottom inner squares are green and the sides of the inner squares are red.  It looks great both ways 🙂  

Sew the top together the same way you pieced the rows together. Take your first row and lay it on top of your second row with right sides together.

Make sure to match each of your seams. This is of prime importance to make sure they come together nice and crisp.  Once you have pinned your seams, go ahead and pin along the rest of the row.  If you find you have some bulk from lining up those seams, go ahead and slide the bubble down and put in a horizontal pin.  This helps to get rid of that bulk but still keep nice crisp seams 🙂  Once you are all pinned, sew 1/4″ seam along the pin line, making sure to remove pins as you go.  Press.

Now just move onto the next row.  Lay the third row onto the now sewn together first and second rows with right sides together.  Pin, sew, and press. Keep repeating until you have sewn all of your rows together.

…and here is what you should have!!!  A beautiful background just ready for those adorable little flaps or pockets.  So lets get to them now!!!

STEP 6 – ADDING FLAPS or POCKETS
Go ahead and grab all those cute little numbered charms you set aside.  Don’t they just look adorable all lined up?!!  

FOR THE FLAP – Go ahead and pin the charm square along the top of the white background square.  Sew a line across the top of the square about an 1/8″ in.  This closes up the hole and secures it to the background. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of the line.   I choose to do a super small zig-zag stitch here instead of a straight stitch just so that it was anchored well (I know I will have little hands tugging on them).  You can do a decorative stitch, straight stitch, whatever you like 🙂  Once again, repeat this process for all 24 Christmas charm squares.

FOR THE POCKET – First you need to close up the hole in the top of your charms.  Sew a line across the top of each of your 24 charms keeping about an 1/8′ from the edge.  Once again, you can use a decorative stitch, straight stitch, whatever you like 🙂  Repeat for all 24 squares.

Now you are ready to attach the pockets.  Align the pocket flap onto the background white solid.  Pin along the side edges of the pockets.  Now sew a line about 1/8″ in (once again, using whatever stitch you like keeping strength of seam in mind) according to the picture below.  Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end.  Repeat for all 24 squares.

And there you have it!!!  Your Christmas Traditions Advent Calendar top is done!!!  I just love it!!!!!

STEP 7 – FINISHING UP
So now the fun part… finishing it up!!   First you want to make your quilt sandwich.  Grab your yard of backing.  Make sure to give it a good press first (this helps to keep bubbles out of the backing).    Tape your backing down to a flat surface with wrong side up.  Then lay down your piece of batting followed by your Advent Calendar top. Having some tunes for this next part might be nice 🙂  

Now onto basting!!!  Start in the center and pin moving outward and smoothing as you go.  I pinned in each of the blue squares and the center of each of the background white squares.

Once your project is all basted, you are ready to quilt it.  I really had some fun with the quilting and decided to share but remember, you do what you like.  For the sashing I wanted to give a ribbon look.  I sewed the top line first and then went back and echoed the line crossing over every once and a while to create the ribbon effect.  I used white thread so when I crossed over on the blue squares it wouldn’t show up much 🙂  Oh, and make sure not to sew any of your flaps down. They pretty much stay out of the way, but I thought it was worth mentioning 🙂

For the background of the banner I wanted to do something that really made the words pop!!  So, nothing pops quite like little pebbling.  And I love that it has the added benefit of looking like little snowballs!!!  It also really makes those seam lines in the background impossible to see.

Lastly, and this is optional, I wanted to repeat the images in quilting in the background squares that are on the front of the flaps or pockets.  So using a water-soluble pen and the templates from the appliqué’s, I drew the image and then pebble quilted around it to make the image pop 🙂

Once you have your quilting done, you are ready to bind your project.  Grab your 1/2″ yard of peppermint print and cut it into at least  four 2 1/2″ strips.  Turn those into your binding and attach.  If you have never done a binding before there is a great tutorial here to help 🙂

And last, if you are doing the flaps, add a piece of ribbon to the back of each background fabric.  Once again, I just used a small zig zag stitch to ensure these were really on well.  Now you are ready to write up your Christmas Traditions.  For the scrolls I just used squares of paper about 2 x 4, you can use fancy Christmas Paper as well, that would be adorable.  Write your traditions, plan your days, and enjoy your Christmas holiday!!!

One amazing Christmas Traditions Advent Calendar perfect for keeping your family in the Christmas Spirit all month long!!!  The Calendar measures approx. 34″ x 40″ and will make the perfect addition to your Christmas!

Melissa Corry

Gift Box Quilt

Gift Box title


Hello All! My name is Angela and I blog over at Cut To Pieces. I’m so pleased to be able to share with you all my very first Moda Bake Shop quilt! But not my last 😉 It was very fun to be able to use Kate Spain’s newest Christmas Line, Flurry. This is actually the first Christmas quilt that I have ever made and I was delighted to have an excuse. But don’t worry if Christmas Fabrics are not your thing! I have lots of other fabric options to show you below. So keep reading.

This twin sized quilt is a very versatile design that looks fabulous with any fabric. I actually think it would be a great design for a quilt for a male, which can be hard to find. And the beauty of this quilt is that it is all made from the same block pattern, so it goes quickly! I pieced the top in one weekend. So put off all of your quilt projects and tackle this one. I promise you won’t be disappointed. 😉

• One Fat Quarter Bundle of Flurry by Kate Spain (or Two jelly rolls!)
• 3.125 yards of Bella Solid Navy
• 3.5 yards of Aqua Snuggles fabric (60″ wide) for the backing
• 1 yard of Flurry Snowdrift Peppermint Swirl for the binding

Each block in this quilt is made exactly the same way. So all of the cutting and sewing instructions are the same for every block. Each block is made up of (9) pieces of fabric, all either a different size or a different print. There are 35 blocks that make up the quilt.

Cutting:

The Navy Bella Solid:

Fold the yardage in half selvage to selvage.

Cut (11) 4.5″ wide strips across the width of the fabric.
Cut (24) 2.5″ wide strips across the width of the fabric.

•select (4) of the 4.5″ wide navy strips and from those cut (35) 4.5″ x 4.5″ squares. You can get 9 pieces per strip.

•select (7) of the 4.5″ wide navy strips and from those cut (35) 8.5″ x 4.5″ pieces. You can get 5 pieces per strip.
*This measurement is fairly exact, so you may want to give yourself an extra strip if necessary.*

•select (3) of the 2.5″ wide navy strips and from those cut (35) 2.5″ x 2.5″ squares. You can get 16 pieces per strip.

(cutting a strip into 2.5″ inch squares)

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•select (9) of the 2.5″ wide navy strips and from those cut (35) 10.5″ x 2.5″ pieces. You can get 4 pieces per strip.

•select (12) of the 2.5″ wide navy strips and from those cut (35) 12.5″ x 2.5″ pieces. You can get 3 pieces per strip.

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(shown here are the three sizes of navy pieces that are 2.5″ wide)

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The Fat Quarter Bundle:

Choose 21 Fat Quarters from the Bundle. Select 14 of those 21 to be double blocks and 7 to be single blocks. Do this by choosing a layout. Lay the fabrics out, 3 across and 7 down. Place them in such a way that you have a pleasing balance of color, scale and print. All three will keep your eye moving.

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When you are pleased with your arrangement, proceed with cutting.

For the 14 fat quarters that will double (ie the ones that you are making two blocks of), cut (3) strips 2.5″ x length of the fat quarter (generally 22″).

•select (1) strip and cut (2) 10.5″ x 2.5″ pieces.

•select (1) strip and cut (2) 8.5″ x 2.5″ pieces.

•select (1) strip and cut (2) 4.5″ x 2.5″ AND (2) 2.5″ x 2.5″ pieces.

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For the 7 fat quarters that are single blocks, cut (2) strips 2.5″ x length of the fat quarter (generally 22″).

•select (1) strip and cut (1) 10.5″ x 2.5″ piece.

•select (1) strip and cut (1) 8.5″ x 2.5″ AND (1) 4.5″ x 2.5″ AND (1) 2.5″ x 2.5″ pieces.

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*note: if using jelly rolls for this, simply skip the step that requires you to cut the fabric into 2.5″ strips and go straight to cutting the actual pieces required. You will need (2) jelly rolls to achieve the displayed quilt.*

Piecing:

Sew each block together in the alphabetized order from A to I, always pressing toward the newest piece added to the block.

gift box

A. Navy 2.5″ x 2.5″ square
B. Print 2.5″ x 2.5″ square
C. Print 4.5″ x 2.5″ piece
D. Navy 4.5″ x 4.5″ square
E. Navy 8.5″ x 4.5″ piece
F. Print 8.5″ x 2.5″ piece
G. Print 10.5″ x 2.5″ piece
H. Navy 10.5″ x 2.5″ piece
I. Navy 12.5″ x 2.5″ piece

Pieces A and B

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Place right sides together and sew.

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For faster piecing, you may find it helpful to do some chain piecing, particularly at the beginning.

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Pieces A and B with C.

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Place right sides together and sew.

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Press seam toward piece C. (always towards the newest piece)

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Pieces A,B,and C with D

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Place right sides together and sew.

(try not to notice that I didn’t press my seam here the way that I am telling you to.)

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Press the seam toward D.

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Pieces A,B,C,D with E.

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Place right sides together and sew.

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Press seam toward E.

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Pieces A,B,C,D,E with F (stop me when I’m boring you!).

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Place right sides together (big shock…) and sew.

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Let’s skip ahead a couple, shall we? Eventually you attach that last piece onto your block!

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Each block finishes at 12.5″ x 12.5″ unfinished.

Sew the (5) blocks in each row together, taking care to match your seams at the double block. Press the seams open.

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Sew each row together, pinning as necessary. Press open the seams.

Two Rows Together.

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Putting the 4th row on.

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The whole quilt top together!

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A detailed shot of the top:

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Backing:

I used Moda’s Snuggles Fabric for ultimate comfort in the cold winter months. You may have thought that this fabric was just for baby blankets, but let me tell you. Adults love it too!

This fabric comes in a 60″ width, so you will have some extra left over if you piece the back together. But that will guarantee you have enough fabric on all the sides for quilting. You will need 3.5 yards, cut in half and seamed together across the middle width of the back.

gift box back 60

You can certainly back the quilt with a quilting weight cotton as well which is typically a 45″ width. You will need 5 yards cut into (2) 2.5 yard pieces and seamed together along the long edge of the fabric.

gift box back 45

Completing the Quilt:

Use your favorite basting method to baste together the backing, batting and quilt top. I chose to use a slightly lofty wool batting in this quilt to make it extra warm in the cold winter months.

Then quilt as desired. I had the fun of sending this quilt to a professional long arm quilter (my very first time!) mainly due to time constraints with my recent move 1000 miles across the country. But I had her quilt it the way that I intended to quilt it myself on my conventional home machine. I chose a simple echo quilting pattern that emphasizes the lines of the quilt pattern. I love how it turned out, but I’m a straight line kind of gal. The beauty of this quilt is that there are really so many different options for quilting. I also considered an all over cross hatch pattern, a simple meander pattern, and even a bow like pattern on the “top” of each “gift box”. So there is definitely a little something for everyone.

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I bound my quilt using (7) 2 3/4″ wide strips sewn together on the bias. I fold that in half all along the length and stitch to the edge of the quilt. Then I flip the folded edge to the back of the quilt and hand sew in place. Just a simple double fold binding method. I used a slightly wider strip than usual because of the loft of the wool batting. If I were using a flat cotton batting, use a 2 1/4″ wide strip.

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Color/Fabric Alternatives:

I know that not everyone is going to want to make a Christmas Quilt, but don’t let that stop you from trying this pattern out with other fabrics. There are endless possibilities of fabric combinations that make for some very interesting and modern quilts. Here are just a few mock ups that I have put together.

Try a monochromatic quilt with a solid background.

gift box green

Can’t get enough of rainbows? Give one of these versions a try!

gift box tan rainbow

gift box white rainbow

Want to try out a new line coming out? Here’s what a little Hometown could look like.

gift box hometown

And just because I’m such a fan of aqua, I had to show you an option with an aqua background. 😉

gift box aqua

One twin sized quilt measuring 60″ x 84″.

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Inspired yet? I hope so! I’d love to see any versions you make of this quilt. You can share them on Flickr in my group Cut To Pieces and of course the Moda Bake Shop group.

Come on…how can you resist this quilt?

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Angela Pingel
{cuttopieces.blogspot.com}

Quilter’s Ironing Pad

                                        

Hello, I hope that you enjoy this tutorial on how to make a quilter’s ironing pad.  My inspiration for this project came after getting annoyed with having to drag out my big ironing board every time I just needed to iron a few seams.  This project is great for ironing quilting projects, it stores easily, and it is very portable.  Hopefully this project will save you some time and ironing board frustration.  It would make a great gift too!

16 Charm Squares (I used Sugar Pop by Liz Scott)
1/8 Yard of Coordinating Fabric (for binding)
1/2 Yard of Thermal Fabric (ironing board fabric)
1/2 Yard of batting (or insulated batting–preferably heat resistant)

   
Step One:  Layout out your 16 charm squares in a 4 by 4 square.  Maintaining the order of your pattern, take the two charm squares of the first row and align them together with right sides facing each other.  Align the other two charm squares in the same fashion and repeat for the remaining three rows.  Sew each set of two charm squares on one side using a 1/4 seam allowance (all seams will be 1/4 inch throughout).  You should now have 8 sets of two charm squares sewn together.

Step Two:  Press open seams.

Step Three:  With right sides together, sew one set of two charm squares to another set of two charm squares to make a row of four charm squares.

Step Four:  Press open seams.  With right sides together sew one set of four charm squares to another set of four charm squares.
Step Five:  Press open seams and then with right sides together, sew one set of eight charm squares to the other set of eight charm squares to complete your back of the ironing pad.  Press open seams.
Step Six:  Cut a piece of thermal fabric to match the size of the back you just made.

Step Seven: Cut a piece of the batting to match the back as well.

Step Eight:  With the wrong side of the back facing up, place the batting on top of the back.  Be careful to line up the edges.  Then place the thermal fabric on top, right side facing up, and line up all edges then pin.
 Step Nine:  Sew the entire perimeter of the new stack with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Step Ten:  Add a binding using your favorite method or try my binding tutorial.
Presto!!! You are done!!!  Enjoy your new ironing pad and the relief from not having to drag out the old ironing board just to iron a seam or two.
One ironing pad to either use for your own quilting needs or to give to a fellow quilter.
Thanks for looking!  
Kathy Davis