Lucy’s Beach {Poetry} Quilt

“school is out, let’s give a cheer”
Hello again, this is Kimberly from My Brown Bag Studio and am I ever happy that it’s summer! Thanks for stopping by for a visit… put your feet up by the pool and stay awhile!
“for summer holidays are here”
I’m really excited to be able to share two of my favorite things with you today… 
“it’s time for flip flops on our toes”
…poetry and quilting!
“and purple sunscreen on our nose”
Oh, and it’s also a project that’s just perfect for a summer’s day spent at the beach… so gather your supplies and let’s get started!

1 Lucy’s Crab Shack layer cake
1 Bella Solids layer cake in Snow
3 1/2 yards Lucy’s Crab Shack Cream Trunks and Tops for backing
3/4 yard Lucy’s Crab Shack Deep Sea Flip Flop for binding
DMC thread for stitching poem in…
                       #3766 (light teal)
                       # 3750 (dark blue)
                       # 721 (orange)
                       #907 (green)
                       # 335 (pink)
63 inches square of batting (I used Warm and Natural)
Basic quilting supplies

1. Choose 18 prints from your Lucy’s layer cake and set aside. These will be the whole color blocks in your quilt.

2. From the remaining layer cake pieces, cut 96 – 2 1/2 inch squares for your  nine-patch blocks.

For the middle of my nine-patch blocks, I placed a square of the cream-on-cream number print.

3. Decide how your scrappy nine-patch blocks will look, and sew 12 blocks.

4. Take 12 of your solid layer cake squares and cut each into four 2 1/2 inch strips. Sew strips to top and bottom of each nine-patch block, then trim off the extra. {Trim these pieces to 2 1/2 inch squares to save for another project… I don’t know about you, but I can never have enough 2 1/2 inch squares!} Then trim 1/4 inch off either side of your block borders. Sew strips to the other two sides and trim 1/4 inch again. Blocks should now measure 10 inches square.

5. Arrange your 18 colored layer cake squares as you like them…

…then fill in the gaps with your nine-patch blocks, and 6 of the solid layer cake squares like so… Placement of the solid cream blocks matters, as you will be stitching the poem in them, so be sure to follow my layout!

 {And no, your eyes aren’t playing tricks… the first picture is the fabric laid out on my friend’s floor and the second is on mine… I love hardwood… any color!}

6. Sew it all together… row by row… to make your quilt top.

7. Click HERE to print out the poem and then find the center of each verse, so you can center it in your block.
 *Edited to add… I’m so sorry for the glitch with printing the poem! I believe I’ve fixed the problem (despite my limited computer skills!) Thanks to everyone who let me know there was an issue with it! I was informed through an email that it works to view through Internet Explorer.

8. Transfer to your quilt top (yes, I’m a pencil transfer-er) Use whichever method works best for you. Center one verse into each of the 6 neutral blocks.

9. When I make a stitchery project, I always stitch through to the batting layer. That’s just how I roll, you can stitch just through the quilt top if you prefer. Lay out your batting, smooth your quilt top on top… you want it a couple of inches larger than the quilt top all the way around…

…hoop a section, and back stitch your lettering. I stitched my quilt with 3 strands of DMC and tried to be random with the colors of the words, just for fun.

These are the 6 verses of the poem, after quilting…
verses 1, 2, and 3…
…and verses 4, 5, and 6…

10. Quilt as desired! I had my Lucy’s Beach {Poetry} Quilt professionally quilted by my friend Rhonda of Quilted Cats Hideaway… thanks a bunch, Rhonda! I love it!

11. Bind with 2 1/2″ strips of the navy dot fabric… and you’re ready for a day at Lucy’s {or your very own} Beach!

Lucy’s Beach {Poetry} Quilt measures approximately 57″ square.

Kimberley Friesen
{My Brown Bag Studio}

Kapalaa Kolors Table Runner

Here we go. It’s exciting to bring a second contribution to the Moda Bake Shop using Moda’s new line of Kapalaa Batiks.  If you ever have a chance to visit Kapalua (Northwest side of Maui)… GO!!!  It’s beautiful (total understatement) just like this new fabric. This project is easy.  Make just two pineapple blocks using a Charm Pack and fat quarters. Create one strip block for the center to separate the pineapples.  Pineapple leaves are fused and appliquéd.  Hope you enjoy making this one.  
1 Pk. 5” x 5” squares – Kapalaa Batiks
1/2 Yd. Leaf Green for background 4320 11
1 Fat Qtr. Jungle Green for leaves 4320 13
1 Fat Qtr. Jungle Green for leaves 4320 14
1/2 Yd. Midnight 4320 24 for quilt border
1 Yd. Hibiscus 4320 36 for backing and binding
1/2 Yd. Paper-backed, fusible webbing for leaves
Low-loft batting approx. 18” x 54”


Step 1 – Cut 2,  8-1/2” x 12-1/2” rectangles from background fabric.

Step 2 – Audition charm squares for the body of the pineapples on a design wall or the floor (follow the layout diagram or picture below). There is extra background fabric in case you want to try different colors in the half-square triangles. Trim 5” squares for pineapple body to 4-1/2” square.

Step 3 – Make half-square triangles.  Place 2,  5” squares on top of one another, right sides together.  Draw a diagonal line down center of lighter batik squares.
Step 4 – Sew 1/4” away from each side of the drawn line.

Step 5 – Cut the squares apart on the drawn line and press seam towards darker fabric.
Step 6 – Trim to 4-1/2” square.  A 4-1/2” ruler is helpful for this.

Step 7 – Sew the squares and half-square triangles together in vertical rows – then sew the rows together forming the body of the pineapple.

Step 8 – Sew the background rectangle to top of pineapple body.

Step 9 – Make the pineapple leaves.  Trace and number 2 of each leaf using reversed templates and paper-backed fusible.  Overlapping edges of leaves get fused together to make one large appliqué piece.  Trace extra (dotted lines) on leaves that slide under others.
Step 10 – Cut out the paper shapes leaving at least ¼” around outside edge of drawn line.

Step 11 – Optional – Cut out the centers of each shape leaving 1/4” on inside of the line.

Step 12 – Fuse shapes to varying shades of leaf fabrics following manufacturers directions.

Step 13 – Let cool and cut out each shape on the drawn line. Remove paper backing.

Step 14 – Lay Placement Guide under an appliqué, pressing sheet.

Step 15 – Place leaves on top of the pressing sheet following the template underneath.

Step 16 – Lightly fuse just the overlapping edges as you build the appliqué.

Step 17 – Carefully peel layered leaves from pressing sheet.

Step 18 – Place leaves at the top of each pineapple and fuse to background following manufacturers directions.

Step 19 – Machine appliqué  leaves to quilt top.  I used the blanket stitch that comes with my machine and black thread to help define the individual leaves.

Step 20 – Make the center block.  Cut 2” wide strips from the remaining dark fabrics.  Sew strips end to end. Use varied lengths to get a random pattern. Make 3 strips and sew together to form a rectangle.  Press and trim rectangle to 8-1/2” x 12-1/2”.  Photo below shows my mistake using a couple of light strips (lighter fabrics confused the separation between the pineapple blocks).

Step 21 – Sew center strip block to the bottom of each pineapple. Press.
Step 22 – Cut 4,  2” wide strips for side borders and 1 for runner end borders.
Step 23. Measure down center length of runner. This is the length of the side borders you will need. Piece strips to get length.
Step 24 – Mark center of each side of quilt.  Sew borders to each side from the centers out to the ends.  Press seams out.
Step 25 – Measure across center width of quilt and repeat steps above for end borders.
Step 26 – Cut the one yard piece of backing in half lengthwise.
Step 27 – Sew together at narrow ends to make one long backing piece. Press seam to one side.
Step 28 – Make quilt sandwich, layering batting on top of backing and quilt top on batting. 
Step 29 – Quilting suggestions.  You could stitch in the ditch for all.  Or… Stitch in the ditch around the pineapple leaves and around strips in center block. Quilt diagonal rays out from
pineapple leaves to edge of quilt.  Try a twist motif in the squares of the pineapple body.  Sally Terry makes a great one.
Step 30 – Bind quilt.

One festive island table runner approx. 15” x 55”.

Robin Nelson

Wheelies Quilt

Hi everyone!  I am Becky of Patchwork Posse and I am totally excited to be here on Moda Bake Shop!  I am always checking out the new patterns over here– and now to be featured is spec-tac!  The Wheelies Quilt is a great way to use up the whole Layer cake.  Add 2 more yards for your background and you are all ready to go.  I chose to go with a dark solid grey for my background which I think plays nicely with the Reunion Layer Cake.

The spokes of the Wheels are simple pinwheels.  Find and match up 4 that share the same color and you will have a more unified pinwheel.  If you don’t want to be so fussy– mix and match and scrap it up!  Because all the squares get used there isn’t enough to finish one more large block so the little 2 leftovers get put right in center square.

1 Layer Cake OR 42 10″ X 10″ squares  {21 light and 21 med/dark}
2 yards background fabric

Separate the lights and darks. You need 21 lights and 21 med/darks

Cut list for sashing: 16–-3” X 17 1/2”   and   4–4 3/4”X 17 1/2”

Cut list for center blocks:  5–3”X 64 and 4–9”X 4 3/4″

Block Instructions:
1) Place a 10″ X 10″ light square on top of a second med/dark square-right sides together. 
2) Draw a line from corner to corner of square. Use a pencil and draw on the wrong side of the fabric 
3) Sew 1/4” from the drawn line on BOTH sides. 
4) Cut on the drawn line and iron- you will now have 2 1/2 square triangles
5) Place one half triangle on top of another half triangle– right sides together Hint: darks should be opposite darks. Lights opposite of lights. 
6) Draw a line from corner to corner of the square– should be perpendicular to the previous sewn seam.
Use a pencil and draw on the wrong side of the fabric. 7) Sew 1/4” from the drawn line on BOTH sides. 
8) Cut on the drawn line and iron.
9) Match up 4 of your squares with one wheel being the same color.
10) Sew the 4 blocks together-repeat for a total of 10 blocks. They will measure 17 1/2” X 17 1/2”
Center Blocks:
1) Sew 9” X 4 3/4” background to each side of the block 
2) Sew 17 1/2” X 4 3/4” background to top and bottom of each block.
3) Repeat for a total of 2 finished blocks
Sewing the top together:
4) Using the layout diagram– sew sashings in between the blocks and at the ends 
5) Sew the blocks with sashings into rows 
6) Sew the sashing strips in between the rows- pin before sewing
7) Sew the rows together Hint: When you are sewing the rows together, match up the sashings from the previous rows. Lay them down right sides together and fold down the top layer just a little to make sure they are lined up correctly. Pin in place and then sew. 

Quilt Size: 80″ X 64″
Block Size:  17 1/2″ X 17 1/2″

Because I have two boys who are needing a new ‘do’ in their room I sewed up another top.
They love them– the grays are a bit off, but who will notice besides me?
I am in love with the dark sashing….and the modern feel.  I don’t usually go that way in designs, but i love it!
Thanks for joining me today!  If you have any questions or comments, ask it!
If you sew up your own Wheelies Quilt let me know. Share it!


Vintage Modern Pinwheels Quilt

Hello! It’s Karin Vail from Cascade quilts, and I am so glad to be back with another Moda Bake Shop project!  This was such a fun and easy quilt to make, that I’m going to be making another one right away with a mixture of another 2 Moda collections I’ve been hoarding saving (WeePlay with Pezzy Prints!)   This one I made with Bonnie and Camille’s LOVELY line called ”Vintage Modern”.  I just love Bonnie and Camille’s fabric collections, and this one is exceptionally beautiful!  I am calling this one ”Vintage Modern Pinwheels” 🙂  Although the ‘pinwheels’ do kind of look more star-like than pinwheel-like.

2 ‘Vintage Modern’ jelly rolls by Bonnie and Camille
1 bella solids jelly roll ‘Porcelain’ (you will only use half of this jelly roll for the pinwheels AND binding, so save the other half for another quilt!)
4.5 yards (backing, I used #55046-15 in ‘candy apple’ color)

Unroll your jelly roll one at a time and sew strips together into sets of 4 using a 1/4” seam allowance (you will get 10 sets of 4 from each jelly roll).  Try to vary the colors/pattern the best you can within each strip set.

When you sew them together, try to keep one end lined up so you can get all 5 blocks from the strip set.  After your strip sets are sewn together, trim off the selvage edge from one side, then subcut your strip set into 8.5” blocks.  If your strip set is a touch wider than 8.5”, no need to trim that yet, we will work on that later.

You will get five 8.5” cuts from each strip set – and you will have VERY little waste at the end of the strip set, so cut carefully!

Take each block, one by one, and line the upper/left corner on your cutting mat lines.  You will be cutting a triangle off the left side – the measurements are 1” down from the upper/left corner and 2” to the right on the bottom/left corner.  There will be 50 blocks from each jelly roll (100 total from 2 jelly rolls).  Cut each block the SAME as you did the first.

The small triangle cut-off is waste.  Now we can prepare the solid jelly roll strips for the pinwheel.  Each solid jelly roll strip will be enough for 8 blocks, so you will use 12 1/2 strips for the pinwheels.  Cut just a little of the selvage off – don’t worry about the little holes, they will end up either trimmed off later or in the seam.  Cut the strips into quarters.  This will give you four 11” pieces from each strip.  You will need 50 of these 11” pieces.

Now, take one of your solid strips and line it up on your strip blocks.  You will be sewing from the edge where you cut 2” from the corner.  Line the end of the strip up so it overhangs by about 1/4 – 1/2” on the very corner. 

Sew your 1/4” seam.

Press open.

Now, trim your square to exactly 8.5” square.  Trim top and bottom now if you need to.  I used a scant 1/4” seam, so I had a little to trim off.

Don’t throw away the solid wonky triangle to the right!  You will use it in another block!  Just line up the pinked edge with your strip blocks cut edge the same as you did before:

 Sew your 1/4” seam:

and press open:

Now, you can do a final trim to 8.5” square on these too:

 See how little waste there is! Yay!

So, now you have 2 blocks done.  Just repeat until you have all 100 blocks done.  This sounds like a lot, but it goes pretty quickly!  The points of the pinwheels will be JUST shy of the corner of the block.  This way, we will not have to worry about bulky seams and it will be easy to get nice sharp points on our pinwheels (no chopped off points!)

Now sew your blocks into 25 pinwheels using 4 blocks for each pinwheel:

Then, sew your 25 pinwheel blocks into 5 rows of 5 blocks to complete your 80×80 quilt top!

Layer quilt top/batting/backing, baste, and quilt as desired!  Now, you can use 7 1/2 of your leftover solid jelly roll strips for your binding too!  That should leave you with 20 solid strips from the solid jelly roll for another quilt 🙂

One generous sized 80×80 quilt!

I wanted to highlight the pinwheels by adding a little something extra by hand quilting inside them with some perle cotton with a nice chunky stitch.  Try it, you’ll love it!  The printed portions of the quilt I stippled with a medium gray thread.

Karin Vail

Blockhead Baby Quilt

Oh, hi!

I’m Allegory from {sew}Allegorical and I’m so very excited to share my first Moda Bake Shop project with you!

Growing up I often placed building blocks and Legos on my Christmas list to Santa but every year he brought me Barbies instead. As soon as I was grown up I started to buy them for myself! 😉

Today I’ve used that love to design a quilt that would make a fabulous baby play mat or work just as well as a wall hanging. To keep things classic, I’ve used colors from the Bella Solid line but I think the quilt could be just as dazzling in prints.

This 36″ square quilt uses two block designs (with a third optional) that can be arranged however you please to make your top. I’ll show you my configuration but please feel free to play with your blocks and make your own layout!

While it may look complicated, I put together my quilt in one day; which includes all the time I spent playing with the blocks to see how I wanted them laid out. 😉

1 Charm Pack Red Bella Solid (9900PP-16)
2 Charm Packs 1930s Colors Bella Solids  (9900PP-23)
1 yard background fabric (Bella Solid Porcelain 9900-182)

1/2 yard for Border One (Bella Solid Leaf 9900-192)
1/2 yard for Border Two (Bella Solid Coastal 9900-137)

1/2 yard for binding (Bella Solid Black 9900-99)
1 1/4 yards for backing fabric (Bella Solid Yellow 9900-24)

*If making this quilt out of different prints you’ll be able to make it with a single Charm Pack of your choice. For an all solids quilt you’ll need multiple charm packs or a layer cake to ensure you have 5-6 squares of the same color. 

For Blockhead Face:
Scrap pieces of Black Bella Solid
Scrap piece of fusible web
Black embroidery thread

All seams are 1/4″ wide.
WOF = width of fabric 

For background fabric (White Solid):

Your background fabric will be used in 1.5″ and 2.5″ strips to build your quilt.
You’ll need one 1.5″ strip and two 2.5″ strips per row.

Plus an additional three 2.5″ strips for sashing between rows.

My total strip cuts for the whole top were (4) 1.5″ strips and (11) 2.5″ strips.

To make the exact layout as mine you’ll need to cut the following from your strips:
(55) 1.5″ squares
(5) 1.5″ x 5″ strips
(1) 1.5″ x 10″ strip
(25) 2.5 x 5″ strips
(1) 2.5″ x 6.5″ strip
Vertical between blocks: (13) 2.5″ x 5.5″
Horizontal between rows: (3) 2.5″ x width of fabric
This quilt consists of two basic blocks: a single and a stacked. 
We’ll start with piecing the single block. 
Single Block Construction:
Cut three 1.5″ squares of your background fabric.
Cut one charm square in half. One half will form the bottom of your block. Out of the second half cut two 1.5″ squares. 
Piece together the 1.5″ squares alternating background fabric and the solid from your charm square. 
Your strip will look like this: 
Attach the 1.5″ strip to the 4.5″ x 2.5″ piece of your charm square. Centering the colored squares.
There will be a slight overhang of your background fabric.
Trim your block. 
Your single block is complete!
Make (10)blocks in various colors. 
Stacked Block Construction:

 You’ll need the following pieces cut to create a stacked block:
Background Fabric – Two 2.5″ x 5″ strips and five 1.5″ squares.
Charm Fabric One – One 2.5″ x 5″ strip and two 1.5″ squares
Charm Fabric Two – One 2.5″ x 5″ strip and one 1.5″ square

The stacked block begins with a single block as shown above. Piece your single block from Charm Fabric One (shown in yellow). 
For the second part of this block you’ll piece together the remaining 1.5″ squares into a strip with Charm Fabric Two in the middle. 
Attach this strip to one of the 2.5″ x 5″ strips of background fabric and trim down. 
Your block will look like this: 
Attach this piece to the left side of your single block with the green square on the bottom

Out of your beginning cuts you should have a two 2.5″ strips remaining, one in your background fabric and one in Charm Fabric Two. Sew these together on the short side (2.5″). 
You should now have two pieces that look like this: 

Aligning the left sides, join the two pieces together  There will be overhang of the background fabric on the right. Trim this off after sewing the two strips together. 
And now you have a stacked block! 
Make (4) stacked blocks in various colors. 
If you are making a Blockhead Face, you’ll need to Add one more row onto one stacked set for a triple stack:

Optional Face Block:
The entire quilt can be constructed with the single and the stacked blocks but I thought it’d be fun to have the oh-so-recognizable face block included too!

To make this block you’ll need a 3.5″ square and a 1.5″ square of solid yellow fabric plus all the garnishes.

Form your strip of 1.5″ squares just as if you were making a stacked block.
It should go: background fabric – yellow – background fabric.
Attach this piece to the top of your 3.5″ square and trim.

Following manufacturer directions, attach fusible web to your scrap of black fabric. Cut out two 1/4″ squares and iron onto your block. Then embellish by adding a mouth with black embroidery thread.

Face block complete! 
To build a row you’ll need to add your sashing pieces.  This is where you have the chance to move your single and stacked blocks around to find a layout that you like! 
Layout of a sample row:
First step is to add your background strips to the top of each single block. Then join blocks together in the row with a vertical 2.5″ x 5.5″ sashing strip in between each block. 
A finished row:
Use your  mix of single and stacked blocks to make four rows.
If you decide to include the face block and the triple stack in your quilt it will require extra sashing to make everything even. 
First add 2.5″ wide pieces to the bottom of the Face block and the top of the single block. (Background Piece A in picture)
Next add a 1.5″ wide piece to the top of the single block (Piece B).
Join the single block and the Face block together also adding a 2.5″ wide piece to the right of the face block (Piece C). 
Last you’ll add a 1.5″ wide background piece to the top (Piece D).
This makes those blocks as tall at the triple stack. The row is joined with the others as normal.
Using your final sashing pieces that are 2.5″ x width of fabric, join rows together with sashing between each row. 

*When putting the rows together, there might be some rows that are longer. These rows will have a block that is cut in half and disappears into the border. When joining rows, align all rows on one side and wait to trim off extra fabric until all four rows are together. 
I have a double border on my quilt to bring it up to 36″ square.
Cut your first border fabric into (4) 2″ x width of fabric strips.
Cut your second border fabric into (4) 2.5″ x width of fabric strips.
Sew borders to both sides of your top and then add border strips to the top and bottom.
You will have fabric to trim from each edge. 
Finished Top:
Since this quilt is 36″ square it doesn’t require a pieced back!
You simply need a 1.25 yard cut of fabric. 
Completing your quilt:

Use whatever basting method you prefer to join together your top, batting and backing. 
For my quilting pattern I chose to stitch in the ditch around both borders and then I packed straight lines into the horizontal sash pieces. 
For my binding I cut (5) strips of 2.25″ wide binding. 
After joining the strips together, I fold it lengthwise and stitch the raw edges to the edge of the quilt.
Then I flip the folded edge to the back of the quilt and run it through my machine again to stitch in place. You can certainly hand stitch your binding in place as well. 

One fabulous 36″ square play mat and/or wall hanging.

Ready to make your own? Please do! You can always share your projects in the Moda Bake Shop Group on Flickr. I’ll be checking in there to see if any Blockhead Quilts appear.

I’d love to see what other block arrangements y’all come up with! I know I’m planning to make a mini quilt for a friend and a larger lap quilt using the two block designs.

Thank you so much for checking out my recipe. If you have any questions, you can find a number of different ways to get ahold of me over at {sew}Allegorical.

Who knew that I’d be able to grow up and turn fabric into my own set of building blocks. 😉

Allegory Lanham

Santa’s Cookie Mat

Hey all, Rebecca Silbaugh from Ruby Blue Quilting Studio back for another project! I know it seems too early to start thinking about Christmas. I hardly ever start my Christmas projects this early, but once I caught a glimpse of Blitzen by Basic Grey, I couldn’t wait to get started!

Now, here in Ohio it’s been hotter than normal, it’s been really dry and the grass is crunchy… I’m sure many of you are living in similar conditions right now. This is not the time to be thinking about winter and snow, but working on this project it did get me thinking about Christmas baking and Nana’s cookies. Lucky for me I stopped in for a visit to my Nana today and was sent home with a bag of those very cookies. Thanks, Nana!

This project is great for a designated place for Santa and Rudolph’s treats, but it can also be a table topper or small wall hanging to add a little flair to a space. Whatever fabrics you choose, the charm from the miniature pieces will be stunning.

For one Cookie Mat you’ll need:

1 Charm Pack of a Bella Solid (I used Porcelain)
1 Charm Pack of a Print Line (I used Blitzen by Basic Grey)
1 yard backing (red print above)
1/4 yard of binding (grey print above)

 Lay a charm square from each pack on top of each other right sides together and stitch down two opposing sides.

 Cut the squares in half parallel to the stitching.

Stitch down the newly cut side of each piece.

 Cut each piece in half between the stitching once again.

With a project that has as many seams this one does this close together, you can press all the seams to the print fabrics or you can press all seams open to reduce the bulk and make quilting easier later on.

 Here’s where you have options: You can sew two different strips from above together which will result in an contemporary scrappy look…

 Or you can sew together two strips from the same fabric together for a more traditional approach.

Either way, sew all strips together in pairs.

No matter which option you choose. Cut each pairing into 4 segments, each should measure 1-1/4″ x 3-1/2″. Either mix up the cut pieces for the contemporary version, or keep the same fabric pieces together for the traditional version.

Sew two cut pieces together alternating the solid and print fabrics. Pay close attention to the direction you sew these pieces.

If you sew them together with the solid fabric at the top as shown, feed them into your sewing machine the same way each time. It doesn’t seem like it’d make that big of a difference, but you’ll get mismatched pieces, especially if you press your seams in one direction rather than open.

Press all of the block halves and then sew them all together continuing to alternate the solid and print fabrics. Each block should measure 3-1/2″ square.

The number of blocks you will get will depend on your fabric choices. I only was able to get 76 blocks from my Charm Packs per Cookie Mat since I pulled out the almost white print fabrics.

 If you made the contemporary blocks, they’ll look like this…

 Or the traditional blocks will look like this…

 I used 72 blocks per Cookie Mat in an 8 x 9 setting. Lay out the blocks until you like the layout and sew them together. This is what the traditional setting looks like completed.

And this is what the contemporary setting looks like. If you are able to use more of the print squares, you may have enough blocks for an 8 x 10 setting. Play with your fabrics and see what comes of them!

Each of my Cookie Mats finishes at 24″ x 27″ with each block finishing at 3″ square. This means each of those little squares will finish at 3/4″!

If your seams aren’t perfect (and trust me many of mine aren’t!) don’t fret – once people get a glimpse of your Cookie Mat they’ll be so stunned by the appearance that they won’t notice a stray seam here and there.

Smaller quilt projects like this one may seem easier because they are small, but it’s not always true. I find some smaller pieces are harder overall since you don’t have as much wiggle room to “fudge” if needed. Try this project out before attempting a more complex miniature quilt to see if small is your style. It may be (mine seem to be getting smaller and smaller) but it may not and attempting small straight lines are much simpler than small pointed pieces.

Now to finish off this project you just need to quilt it, bind it (you’ll need to cut 3 strips of binding fabric) and enjoy! Just be sure to get it done in time for the “Big Guy”. As you can see Christmas came a little early this year…

I quilted mine with one of my favorite swirl patterns. For anything that I plan on placing items on (especially food) I tend to over-quilt them. With dense quilting there is less shifting and potential for spills. Plus, the swirls soften the overall appearance of this type of design. Just remember to have as much fun with the quilting as you did with the rest of the quilt.

I hope you enjoyed this and might be in the Christmas mood with me, even if just a little. Hey, if it means cookies from Nana, I’ll make Christmas projects all year round!

Which option did you like best? I can tell you, I thought I would like one style better than another before I get the tops finished, but once I was finished the other won over my heart.

Stop on over to my blog for other projects like this and other tutorials at:

Rebecca Silbaugh

Today’s Tip: Binding

We are going to share a series of sewing tips and tricks here on the Moda Bake Shop. Would you like to share your favorite sewing tip? Send us an email.

Today’s tip comes from Jennifer Overstreet of {}.

Jennifer suggests trimming away the excess fabric at your corners when binding your quilt. This cuts down on the bulk and leaves you with a nice smooth corner. It’s especially helpful when you are working with true bias binding and curved edges.

See how Jennifer’s binding turned out on her Tea Time Quilt.

Happy sewing!