Quilt Block to Pocket

If you are anything like me after you finish a quilt you end up with a few orphaned quilt blocks…and then you don’t have the heart to throw them out…so you keep them…and they wait for another chance to shine. 

Well, recently I found a fun way to let those orphaned blocks shine!  Add them to an apron, bag, skirt, or girls dress as a pocket and let them be the center of attention.

*A quilt block
*A piece of fabric the same size as your quilt block to use for lining
*An item to sew your new pocket onto
*Charm pack to create your own simple blocks

#1.  Find yourself a quilt block that needs a good home.  Square it up and then cut a coordinating piece of fabric the same size as your quilt block.

#2.  Place your quilt block and your lining fabric right sides together and sew around the perimeter of your block.  (Leaving a short 1 inch opening on the bottom edge of your pocket that will be used to flip your block right sides out.)
#3.  Trim your corners.

#4.  Flip your block right sides out and press flat.

 #5.  Pin your pocket on your item.

#6.  Sew along both sides and the bottom of your block leaving the top open to create your pocket. (As you sew around the perimeter you will sew closed the opening that you used to flip your block with.) 
And you are all done!

A new home for a deserving quilt block and one new item with a darling pocket detail.

***Note all the fabric for the quilt blocks, dress, and collar come from Basic Grey’s Little Black Dress 2 line.***

We were so happy to visit here at the Bake Shop today!
{Simple Simon and Company}

Q&A with Oda May: Fat Quarter Folding

Click through for two folding methods from Oda May.

Dear Oda May,

This might sound like a silly question but I’ve recently started organizing my fabric stash and I wondered…how do other people fold their fat quarters? I can’t seem to get them to look tidy and pretty the way I see so many on Pinterest.

Floundering in Fat Quarters

Dear Floundering,

There is never a silly question when it comes to fabric!  Fat quarter folding is one of my favorite ways to relax so I can definitely help you out with a few different ways to fold them.

First….the Moda way! This is how the fat quarters are folded in our beautiful bundles. No raw edges show with this folding method.

Second…a slightly smaller fold.

Here are the two stacked up so you can see the size comparison.

Hope this helps you keep things tidy! Readers, do you have any favorite folding methods?

Redbird and Berries Mini Quilt

Greetings Moda Bake Shop readers and Happy New Year!   It’s Karen from Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals Blog excited to share the “Redbird and Berries” mini-quilt with you!

Oh so luscious Mini Charms of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey were used for the border of this cute little wall hanging while scrumptious coordinating Grunge fabrics were used for the background and applique pieces.

The recipe includes a bit of piecing, applique, free motion and straight line quilting.  You’ll also learn to make Perfect Circle berries and bias stems.   I hope you find the variety intriguing because when you’re done the mini quilt will *Charm* all who see it!

Quilt Border:

  • 3 or 4 Mini Charm Packs of Little Black Dress 2 by BasicGrey  (88 2.5″ fabric pieces)

Applique Background:

  • 14.5″ by 22.5″ Grunge Basics Cream (30150-160) by BasicGrey

Applique Pieces:

  • 1 Fat Quarter Grunge Basics Grey Couture (30150-163) by BasicGrey for Stems
  • Fat Eighth or Scraps of Grunge Basics Kissing Booth Cherry Cordial (30150-167) or Grunge Red (30150-151) by BasicGrey for Bird and/or Berries
  • Scraps of Black and Reddish Orange Fabric for Bird Mask and Beak – I used Moda Black and Grunge Radish


  • 27″ by 35″ piece of fabric for backing
  • 27″ by 35″ batting
  • 1/4 yard of  fabric for binding
  • Perfect Circles or heat resistant template plastic or thin cardboard for berries
  • Freezer Paper or Template Plastic for making applique templates
  • Clover Bias Tape Maker – Size 6 (1/4″) for tree stems
  • Spray Starch or Sizing for Berries
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2325 for Piecing and Border Quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2000 Quilting Background
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2460 for Red Applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50 Wt – Color 2605 for Gray Stem Applique 

Pre-cut Basics:  

Before working with Mini Charms it’s helpful to run a lint brush over the edges.  This will reduce the amount of “little fuzzies” adorning your workspace 😉

Also, when working with any of the Moda Pre-cut fabrics always treat the outer most tip of the pinking as the edge.  This is especially important when piecing – the accuracy of your piecing depends on it.

For the piecing on this project you’ll need to know exactly where your 1/4 seam mark is on your sewing foot.  The walking foot below is clearly marked — I LOVE using it for accurate piecing.  

Measuring Seam Allowance Accuracy:

A great way to test the accuracy of a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance is by sewing three mini charms together.  Press to set the seams, press the seams to one side, flip over and measure. The middle charm should measure exactly 2 inches wide.  If not, adjust your seam allowance until it does.

Now lets get started with our recipe:

Step 1:  Layout/Design the border:

Layout your mini charms in a manner which is pleasing to YOUR eye.  Each quadrant of the border will be 11 charms high by 2 charms wide for a total of 22 charms in each of the 4 quadrants.   The complete border will use 88 charms.

I’m one of those CRAZY symmetrical types so a scrappy layout wasn’t in the cards for me.  Instead I designed one quadrant at a time, alternating light and dark pieces and making the opposite quadrant a diagonal mirror image.  Checkout the picture below.  I love the checkerboard effect!

To duplicate the layout above you will need 4 Mini Charms packs.  If you would rather go scrappy or change the layout you can get away with using 2 Mini Charm packs and cutting 4 mini charm pieces from one of your grunge fabrics 😉  Overall you’ll need 88 2.5″ square pieces of fabric for the border.

Step 2:  Sew a Border Quadrant (for each of the 4 quadrants):

Once you’ve finalized your border layout/design, pick one quadrant and sew the pairs together – chain stitching all 11 pair of your light/dark fabric.  Chain piecing allows you to quickly sew the 11 pair without cutting your thread.  Once you’ve chain stitched the 11 pair are all attached in the correct order.

When finished chain piecing 11 pair of a quadrant, remove them from your machine and lay them (still connected to one another) on your ironing space with the darker fabrics facing up.  This allows you to “set” your seam by pressing them flat, and then pressing again in the desired direction – in this case it’s best to press toward the dark fabric.

On a checkerboard layout, pressing toward the dark will enable you to nest your seams when you sew your pairs into 4 x 2 and then into 8 x 2’s and so on.  Nesting your seams allows for more accurate intersections.

Clip the threads attached to the first 2 pair and prepare to sew 2 – 2×2’s into a 4 patch.
Nest the seams for accurate alignment, pin and sew.  Repeat this effort until you’ve created an 11 x 2 quadrant of your border.

If you are following a light/dark arrangement (checkerboard) with a pattern to your layout (like I did), I suggest stopping and spot checking your order as you sew ; )  I ALWAYS take a picture of the layout before beginning to sew.  Use the picture to be sure you are sewing your pairs and your 11×2 sections together in the desired arrangement.

Once you have a quadrant that is 11 long by 2 wide,  press to set the seams, and then press all the seams of a quadrant in the same direction.  For ease of attaching to the background fabric you can press this way:

  • right side border should be pressed downward
  • left side border pressed upward
  • bottom border pressed to the left
  • top border pressed to the right.  

Each of the 4 quadrants should measure 22.5 inches long and 4.5 inches wide.

Once all 4 quadrants are prepared, it’s time to put it all together!

Step 3: Cut background fabric and attach borders:

Using Grunge Cream cut a piece of background fabric 14.5″ by 22.5″.

Attach the side borders to the background fabric first, press to set the seams, then press the seams toward the border.

Next attach the top and bottom borders, setting the seams and pressing them toward the border.  You only have two seams to match on this border — so simple 😉

Woohoo!  Now your top is ready for the applique. The top should measure 22.5 inches wide by 30.5 inches long.


The applique on the sample was completed by hand, but you can use your favorite applique method to complete yours.  The stems, berries and bird can be done with two sided fusible, raw edge machine applique, or any other applique method.  The sample was completed with bias stems, perfect circle berries, and a needle turn applique Redbird.  You can learn more about Needle Turn applique by visiting the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Prep 1 – Prepare Strips for Bias Stems:

You will need 10 or so 1/2 inch bias strips of Grunge Gray Couture.  If you’ve never made a bias strip before, don’t worry — just follow these simple steps:

  • Start with a fat quarter of Grunge Grey Couture
  • Iron your fabric – cut a straight edge if there isn’t one already.
  • Most rotary rulers include a 45 degree angle mark on them – find it on your ruler.
  • Lay the 45 degree angle mark on the selvage edge of your fabric.  This will align the cut edge of your ruler on a 45 degree angle. 
  •  Use a rotary cutter and cut a straight edge on the bias (the diagonal above).
  • Gently slide your ruler over to the 1/2″ mark (with the 45 degree line still on the selvage) and cut a 1/2 inch strip.
  • Repeat this process until you have 10 or more 1/2″ strips cut on the bias.

Note: Use Caution when handling the strips — when fabric is cut on the bias it will easily stretch.

Applique Prep 2 – Make Bias Stems:

  • Using the Clover #6 – 1/4″ Bias Tape Maker (BTM) feed one end of your 1/2″ bias strip through the wide end of the BTM with fabric right side up.  Use a pin to advance the fabric through the BTM to the narrow end if necessary.  Leave about 1/2″ of the strip showing on the narrow end.
  • Position your iron so the side of the iron is against the narrow end of the BTM.
  • Note: The BTM instructions say to move the tool with the hand that is not ironing — but I prefer to use the iron to move the tool.
  • The iron should be set on a “Cotton” heat with steam and a fair amount of pressure should be applied as you glide the iron over the fabric to make the bias stem.  Once you start pressing to the left  – keep going – don’t stop mid strip. 
  • Some would suggest you use a light starch on the fabric before beginning to make the tape — feel free to do so – it makes the bias tape hold its shape. 

Completed bias stems:

Applique Prep 3 – Make Berries:

Using Karen Kay Buckley’s Perfect Circles templates choose the 1/2 inch diameter template.  If you don’t own Perfect Circles, use the heavy piece of cardboard that backed your Mini Charm pack to cut a template.  

  • Cut 65-75 1″ circles for berries — I used a variety of fabrics, including Red Grunge, Moda Marbles and some of the extra Little Black Dress mini charms. Use a US Quarter coin to cut 1″ circles if necessary.
  • Once the 1 inch circles are cut , hand sew a running stitch around the perimeter of the fabric circles – leaving approximately a 6″ tail of thread attached to the fabric circle. Do not knot the thread after you’ve finished the running stitch.
  • Place a Perfect Circle template in the center of the fabric.  
  • Pull the thread taut around the Perfect Circle, drawing the fabric tight around the template.
  • Place the unit right side down on the ironing surface, spray a bit of starch or sizing on the back side of the drawn fabric and place a medium heat, dry iron on the piece(s) until the berry is completely dry (a minute or two depending on how much spray starch you use).
  • Remove the iron, allow the berry and template to cool, then peel the edge of the fabric back to  remove the  template.  
  • Reshape the circle by pulling the thread taut again and press once more to set the circle.

A collection of berries: The sample contained about 75 berries and included some berries made from the leftover Little Black Dress 2 mini-charms (not shown below).

Applique Step 4  – Layout and Attach Stems to Background:

Layout stems in a manner which is pleasing to your eye.  If you would like your completed work to look like the sample, use the “Final Applique Layout” picture (below) to arrange the stems and berries.

I use pins to secure the applique stems to the background prior to stitching.  This method allows the stem to float for re-arranging.  You can also baste or glue baste the stems in place for stitching.

Once arranged, use an invisible stitch (similar to the stitch used for needle turn applique) to attach the stems to the background.   You can see more about applique stitch here.

A couple of tips when working with stems:

  • When stems are made on the bias they are very flexible – so they curve easily.  Just pin or glue or baste in the position you like.
  • To hide a raw edge tip of a stem fold the end under once and secure when you sew the stem.
  • Create a fork in your stems by tucking the end of a stem under another section of stem or by folding a long piece of stem in two.
  • You don’t need stems that are so long they are unmanageable.  Just put one stem end against the other and sew — place a berry on it to cover the intersection if you like. 

Attach your stems to the background fabric by hand or machine.  Again, you can learn more about needle turn applique on the “Teardrops of Love” tutorial on my blog.

Applique Step 5 – Layout and Attach Berries and Bird:

Berries or Redbird first?  The choice is yours.  I did a few berries and then the Redbird and finished up with Berries.

Arrange and pin some berries in place.  I limited the number pinned at one time so my threads were not getting caught on the applique pins. 

Stitch the berries by hand or machine.  If stitching by hand use the same “invisible” stitch used on the stems and used for most needle turn applique.

Applique  – Prepare and Applique the Redbird:

Note: The Redbird applique template can be found in the “Printer Friendly” version of this recipe.

In the sample, Needle Turn applique was used for the Redbird, his mask, and beak – but any method can be used to complete this step.  I won’t go into Needle Turn Applique techniques here but please visit my blog and/or leave me questions below if you run into trouble completing the bird.  I do have pictures of each applique step and would be happy to share them on my blog if it would be helpful.  Please let me know.

Normally, to prepare applique shapes, I would print the applique templates directly onto the dull side of a piece of freezer paper; however, for this recipe I decided to use template plastic so I could fussy cut the Redbird from the beautiful Grunge fabric. If you’re using turned applique, trace the bird onto the fabric with any of the marking tools identified here and cut out with an 1/8″ plus seam allowance.

Did I mention how much I LOVE Grunge?  – OR – how well it goes with the Little Black Dress 2 fabric line?   It really is a beautiful line of fabric.  No kidding!!

Next applique the bird to the background.  Stitch the body first, then the mask, and lastly the beak.

If you haven’t done so already, finish attaching all of your beautiful berries to the background. Each berry adds dimension to the overall design.  I didn’t fret much about making my berries perfect – because in real life they are not.  The sample berries were stitched by hand.

Final Applique Layout:

Note: Often when you applique a quilt top, the overall dimension gets smaller.  The applique stitching tends to pull in the sides of a quilt top.  No need for concern — the quilting will probably shrink it more!

Prepare for Quilting:

If you are unfamiliar with the steps necessary to prepare a top for quilting, there are detailed instructions specified in the Family Tree Pillow Recipe here.

For the sample I used two layers of batting to provide both loft and stability.  One layer of 100% Wool Batting and one Layer of Warm and Natural Cotton batting.

I also pieced the back for this particular quilt.  The backing measured 27″ x 35″.

I started quilting by straight line stitching around the perimeter of the background fabric and again around the perimeter of the first rows of charms.  I almost always “stitch in the ditch” to stabilize the quilt before starting to Free Motion Quilt.

For the background quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50 Wt Cotton in Color #2000.  This thread glides through my Janome and I never get thread breaks.  The color matches the Grunge Creme perfectly!

Always be sure to match your top and bobbin threads when Free Motion Quilting.  So we are now echo quilting around each applique piece (removing pins as necessary).  Once done repeat the echo quilting around all applique and stems.  In hindsight I wish I had echo quilted one more time before starting my background quilting.  As you can see below, I quilted in some mock berries to add interest.

To complete the background quilting I used a “McTavishing” like design – a variety described as “Nifty Little S’s” shared by Wendy Sheppard of Ivory Spring Blog. This design is so forgiving and allows you to move around the applique pieces with ease.

Once the background quilting was completed I added some straight line quilting (with a walking foot) on the mini-charms.  I used a walking foot as a width guide and quilted every 1/2 inch around the perimeter of the background.  The straight line stitching shows up best on the back of the quilt.  For this quilting I used Aurifil Mako 50Wt Cotton in Color #2325.  Again, I just love the way the Aurifil quilts – I couldn’t be happier with this thread!

Below is another picture that shows the pretty straight line quilting on the charms.

When finished quilting, the sample “squared” to 21.5″ wide by 29.5″ long.  The applique and dense quilting ate up 1 inch each of the width and length.

The next step is to prepare hanging sleeves and binding as desired.  There is a great Moda Basics Tutorial for Binding here.

The sample binding was completed using a 2.25″ wide binding (folded) and a 3/8″ seam allowance to sew it on the front and hand stitch it to the back.  I also added two hanging sleeves (either side of the middle) using two 5.5″ by 8.5 inch pieces of fabric.

If you’ve made it to this point of the tutorial congratulations!   I hope you’ve enjoyed learning about bias stems, Perfect Circles, applique and some free motion quilting.

Working with these methods opens a new door to the world of quilting doesn’t it ?    It’s sew much fun!

One 21.5″ x 29.5″ Wall Hanging or Table Topper or Mini Quilt.

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Please be sure to swing by my blog and check out my tutorials, lessons learned and completed projects.   I would love to have you join the fun and give me feedback on this recipe.

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller

Lovely Lattices Quilt

This is Sarah from Thrift Store Crafter here with my first project for Moda Bake Shop.  My favorite block ever is the Broken Dishes block and it just dawned on me one day that it was perfect for charm packs.  It wasn’t long before I had come up with the idea for this Lovely Lattices quilt.

4 Hubba Hubba Charm Packs
4 yards Essential Dots, one yard each in four different colors (I used Baby Pink, Spring Green, Teal and Tangerine)
Backing and Binding – 4.5 yards of Essential Dots (I used Spring Green)

From each of your four Essential Dots colors, cut 42 five inch squares.  Keep the colors separated in four different stacks.

This is the basic block of this quilt, the Lattice block:

The Lattice block is comprised of four Broken Dishes blocks, each with a different Essential Dots background fabric and a different Hubba Hubba Charm Square.  This is the Broken Dishes block:

The Broken Dishes block is made up of four half square triangles (HSTs).  We are going to construct the HSTs using the charm squares and the squares we cut.  

Step 1:  Match up each stack of Essential Dots squares with one charm pack of Hubba Hubba. 

Working from one of your sets, take one charm square and one of the Essential Dots squares you cut. Place the squares right sides together matching up all edges.  

Sew around all four sides with a quarter inch seam.  It should look like this:

Step 2:  Cut the squares you just sewed together diagonally from the upper left to the lower right:

Then cut from the upper right to the lower left:

Essentially, you are cutting an “X” across the square.  It should look like this after you cut:

Step 3:  Press the seams to the dark side of the HSTs and trim the HSTs to 3 inches.

Step 4:  Lay out your four HSTs like this and sew them together:

Step 5:  Pinwheel the seams and press.  What do I mean by that?  Moving counterclockwise around the block, press the seam to the left.  It should end up looking like this on the back:

If you do this with each Broken Dishes block, the seams will all nestle together when you sew the blocks together.  

Step 6:  Trim blocks to 5.5 inches.

Let’s stop and talk for a minute about the best way to tackle the 168 Broken Dishes blocks you need to make.  I like to divide and conquer.  I work with one set of charm squares/Essential Dots at a time.  I divide that set into four smaller sets.  I chain piece one smaller set through the HST phase then through the piecing of the Broken Dishes block.  I then take the next set and do the same thing.  Once all 168 of my Broken Dishes blocks are together, I move on to step 7.  Keep the blocks separated by background color.

Step 7:  You should now have four piles of Broken Dishes blocks, one of each of the four background colors.  Lay your blocks out like this:


Make sure when you are sewing your Lattice blocks together that you are consistent in the placement of your background colors.  Each block should have one Broken Dishes block with each background color.

Sew your blocks together.

Step 8:  Pinwheel your seams and press.  This is just like you did in Step 5 only the seam is longer this time.

Step 9:  Trim your blocks to 10.5 inches.

Step 10:  You are now ready to lay out your blocks and sew your quilt together!  You should have seven rows of six blocks each.  Sew the Lattice blocks together into rows, alternating which direction you press the seams from row to row. 

Step 11:  Sew the rows together.

This makes one 60 x 70 inch quilt.  With it’s bright, happy colors, it would be perfect for any girl from a toddler to a teenager.

Sarah Meland
Thrift Store Crafter

Quilting Bee Sampler Quilt

Hello again, I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts and it is an honor for me to be with you today at Moda Bake Shop.  As a quilter, I love big modern prints and Kate Spain’s newest fabric line, Daydreams.  It is full of awesome fabrics.  These prints are so beautiful, they are inspiring.  These fabrics are so bright and fun that they leave me daydreaming about the beach–which is great since there is a foot of snow outside!  I also enjoy using traditional quilt blocks made from newer techniques, such as those utilized when sewing with pre-cut fabrics.  I hope you enjoy this quilting bee sampler as it is a traditional style quilt in modern fabrics.  

For this sampler, we will need:

  • 1 Layer Cake (or two charm square packages) of your favorite print (I’m using Daydreams by Kate Spain)
  • 2 white Bella solids charm square packages
  • 1 1/4 yards for the setting triangles (I’m using Daydreams Cadence Stream)
  • 2  yards for the sashing strips and inner ease border (I’m using Daydreams Full Circle Rose)
  • 2 1/2  yards for the outer border (I’m using Daydreams Reflection Rose)
  • 1 yard for the binding (I’m using Daydreams Arcadia Ink)

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS:  As always, please read through all the instructions prior to beginning any project.   Unless otherwise indicated, all seam allowances are 1/4 inch.  I recommend testing that your quilting foot and pressing is actually creating a 1/4 inch seam allowance prior to beginning this project and making any necessary adjustments.  This will help the pieced border fit the patchwork more readily.   Press all seams in the direction of least bulk unless otherwise indicated.  Also, trim all dog-ears on your half-square triangles (HSTs) as this will help intersecting points lie flat.   And last, but not least, to ensure that your points do not get blunted when they are attached to sashing and borders, always sew with the HSTs on top. face-down with right sides of fabrics together and away from the feed dogs.  This way you can see the top point of your piecing.


  • Cut your layer cake in half to yield a 5 inch strip.  Reserve one half for another project and cut the other half into two sets of 5-inch squares.
  • Cut border fabrics along the lengthwise grain:
    • White outside border: cut four, 2 1/2 inches wide by 60 inches long
    • Pink outside border: cut four, 7 1/2 inches wide by 84 inches long.
  • Cut teal setting triangles to ensure the bias edge goes against the piecing and not the outer pieced edge:
    •  Cut one large square measuring 24 inches.  Cut these in half diagonally, and then again to yield 4 triangles measuring 16 1/2 inches tall by 24 inches long.  These are the setting triangles.
    • Cut two triangles measuring 12 1/2 inches square.  Cut these in half diagonally, each square yielding two triangles.  Yield: 4 total squares for the outside corners of the setting.
  • Cut sashing strips along lengthwise grain:
    • Cut eight strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 16 1/2 inches long.
    • Cut four strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 20 1/2 inches long.
    • Cut two strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 58 1/2 inches long.   Excess length will be trimmed away later.

PIECING THE BLOCKS: The finished block size is 16 1/2 inches square.

Note: All of the blocks use half-square triangle units (HSTs) in different orientations.  However, some of the blocks use a different number of them. I recommend sewing the HTSs for each individual block as you go, not chain piecing all the HSTs at once. This will help with the color coordination as well as keeping you from sewing HSTs that are not needed.

 Use this layout diagram to create the Mosaic Tile block.  Sort 8 blue charm squares and 8 white squares to create this block

To create the half-square triangle units (this technique is used to create all HSTs throughout):

  • Draw a diagonal line down the center of all of the white Bella solids charm squares. 
  • Layer one 5-inch charm square on top of your 5-inch  charm square print.
  • Sew down both sides.

  • Cut these in half on the drawn line.

  • Press all squares open and toward the print fabric.

  • Layout all HST units and check them with the layout diagram prior to sewing the block together.  I like to have the stronger prints creating the center diamond, but you can play around and make it how you like it.

Here’s the sewn block:

Use this layout diagram to create the Whirlpool, also known as a Windblown block.  Sort 8 red and pink charm squares and 8 white charm squares.

To create the half-square triangle units follow the same method of creating the HST units as shown in the Mosaic Tile block.

  • Layout all HST units and check them with the layout diagram prior to sewing the block together.  As the charm square is cut in half diagonally, it yields two identical HST units.  These paired end to end create a diamond.
  • When I layout my blocks with a diamond shape in them, I layout the paired HST units creating the diamond first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.
  • Now add the outside flying geese units with points going in.

  • And..the finished block:

Use this layout diagram to create the Yankee Puzzle block.  Sort 8 yellow and orange charm squares and 8 white squares for this block.

  • To create the half-square triangle units follow the same method of creating the HST units as shown in the Mosaic Tile block.
  •  As in the previous block, when I layout my blocks with a diamond shape first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.
  •  Now add the rest of the pieces.

  • And…the finished block:

Use this layout diagram to create the Clay’s Choice block.  Set aside 4 green charm squares and 4 white squares for the outer block edges.  Trim these to measure 4 1/2 inches.  Sort 4 more green squares and 4 more white charm squares and sew them into HST units as previously shown.

  • As in the previous block, when I layout my blocks with a diamond shape in them, I layout the paired HST units creating the diamond first.  This ensures my block “spins” correctly.  It also allows me to check the orientation of my pieces while sewing the block.  Then add the remaining pieces.

  • And the finished block:

 Use this layout diagram to create the Flying X block.  Set aside 4  print charm squares and 4 white squares for the outer block edges.  Trim these to measure 4 1/2 inches.  Sort 4 more multi-colored charm squares and 4 more white charm squares and sew them into HST units as previously shown.

  • In this block, I layout the pinwheel center first, then add the remaining pieces.

For all blocks: Trim the blocks to a 16 1/2 inch square.


  • Add the sashing lattice to the blocks.
    • Note: Sashing will over-hang the setting triangles to be put in later and this excess will be trimmed away and squared in the final squaring of the patchwork center. (This photo shows it being trimmed away at a later step.  I just thought I’d give you a “heads-up” now so you don’t worry when you see the over-hang.)
Assembly diagram of adding the sashing to the end blocks.
  1. Sew a 2 1/2 inches by 16 1/2 inches strip to both sides of the Yankee Puzzle and Flying X and blocks.
  2.  Sew a 2 1/2 inch strip by 20 1/2 inch strip to one side of the Yankee Puzzle and Flying X blocks.
Assembly diagram of adding the sashing to the center blocks.
      1. Sew a 2 1/2 inches by 16 1/2 inches strip to both sides of the Mosaic Tile block.
      2. Sew the Whirlpool block to one side of the Mosaic Tile block and the Clay’s Choice to the other side of the Mosaic Tile block.  Add the two 2 1/2 inch by 58 inch strips to this pieced unit.  Trim away excess to fit the length.
      3.  Finish the outside edges by adding a 2 1/2 inch strip by 20 1/2 inch strip to the remaining edge of the Whirlpool and Clay’s Choice blocks.


    1. Sew the 16 1/2 inch by 24 inch triangles to both sides of the Yankee Puzzle and Clay’s Choice block.
    2. When this strip is finished, sew these two units to the center patchwork blocks.  Do not worry that the sashing sticks out of the setting triangles.  It is part of the design and will be trimmed away later.
    3. Add the four outer 12 1/2 inch triangles to the remaining four corners.
    Piecing Diagram


    • Sew the HST border using the method shown in the Mosaic Tile block section.
    • Sew left and right hand side borders, both consisting of 12 pieces.  Refer to the layout diagram for placement.
    • Sew the top and bottom borders, both consisting of 14 pieces.  Refer to the layout diagram for placement.
    Sawtooth border diagram.  This diagram shows 16 pieces, but you only need 14.


      • Measure the ironed finished length of the 12-piece HST border.  It should be 50 1/2 inches long.  
      • Measure your finished patchwork center, it too should be 50 1/2 inches long.  
        • Note: Often there are variations in piecing and pressing that could get these two to differ.  If your quilt top does not measure up, square the center patchwork section to measure the same as your 12-piece HST border.  (Ah-ha!  So this is where we trim off the sashing overhang!)
          • Iron the quilt top folded in half twice to create creases showing the panel’s center.  Pin-match the center of the HST border with these creases and pin from the center out.  Sew on the HST units border.
          • Sew on the outer borders starting with the 2 1/2 inch border, then add the 7 inch border.
          • Quilt as desired!
          Assembly diagram with borders.

          Finished quilt top measures 81 inches square.

          Note: If you choose to make this project omitting the saw-tooth border, you will only need one 42-piece print charm pack and one 42-piece Bella solids charm pack.

          Here is an alternate colorway using the modern gray back-grounds instead of the white.  Also this has a saw-tooth border variation where all the HSTs face the same direction.  I like it too!

          Here are some photos of how I quilted the top.  I just fell in love with this fabric and had to do some crazy free-motion quilting on it.  I hope you like the ideas.

          Shannon Mower

          Wishes String Quilt

          Hello again! This is Karin from Cascade Quilts, and I am happy to bring you another quick quilt project!  I have wanted to do a string quilt for years, but I just don’t care for foundation piecing – and all the tutorials I have seen to use strip quilting have not had the solid strip that goes down the *center* of the block.  They always seem to have a seam down the center instead, which gives an entirely different look to the overall quilt.  It came to me one night how to make the blocks with a strip pieced method with the solid down the center of the block (when trying to get to sleep, but can only think of current/future quilting projects!).  I am *thrilled* how this quilt top came together!  I have already started to make another one with this pattern I love it so much!   My mom even started one after she saw my completed top.  I hope you love this pattern as much as I do – and if you make a quilt from the pattern, I’d love for you to share it (or any of my other project patterns) on my flickr group 🙂

          2 print jelly rolls (I used ‘Wishes’ by Sweetwater)
          1 solid jelly roll (or 2 3/4 yards – I used Moda Bella ‘Porcelain’)
          3/4 yard matching solid cut into 2.5” strips (‘Porcelain’- not shown)
          3 yards wide backing (Bella solids in red)

          All your seams will be 1/4” or scant 1/4”.  Whichever you use, just be as consistent as possible.

          Unroll you jelly rolls and remove 1 strip from each of the print jelly rolls (you will use 39 strips from each roll for a total of 78 print strips).  Unroll your solid jelly roll – you will be using 26 strips at this point from the solid.  Pair up the 26 solid strips with 26 of your print strips.  Pair up the remaining 52 print strips into another 26 pairs.  Sew each pair together along one long side.  26 print/solid pairs and 26 print/print pairs.

          Now, pair up each print/solid pair with a print/print pair keeping the prints together and the solid along the edge.  Press these groupings with the seams all going in the same direction (direction doesn’t matter, just as long as it’s consistent through all of them).  You will have 26 strip sets now, with a solid on the outside and 3 prints.

          At this point, I suggest squaring up one end of each strip set.  Again, doesn’t matter which end, just be consistent for all of them.  *I hope I don’t confuse everyone too much with pics of different print strip sets – I seem to have missed/misplaced pics of some steps the first time around, so I started with a second quilt to capture those missed steps.  The fabrics in this second quilt is a collection from about a year ago called ”Seascapes” by Deb Strain*

          Then pair each 4-strip-set with another strip set – making sure that you don’t sew the two solid strips together.  Since the seams are all pressed in the same direction, your seams will ‘nest’ and help you align the strip sets.  Sew along one long edge and press that seam in the same direction as the others.

          You will now have 13 strip sets that are 8 strips wide.  All seams should be going in the *same* direction.  Solid, 3 prints, solid, 3 prints.

          You are going to sew these into a tube.   Sew the final seam to form the tube, then carefully press the final seam in the same direction as the other seams.

          Once you have the 8-strip tube made, you will be pressing the tube so you are pressing the solids in half.  Hopefully this picture explains what I mean.  You will be able to ‘nest’ the seams of the prints as you press so that you can be sure that you are pressing the solids directly in half.

          I’m guessing you just had an A-HA moment like I did?! 🙂

          Now, you will begin cutting your blocks!  You will get 5 blocks from each strip set ‘tube’, with a bit of leftovers.

          Starting at the left side of the strip set with a 9.5” square-up ruler align the diagonal center of the ruler along one edge (the solid that is folded in half).  Don’t do like I did in this pic – use the diagonal line on the ruler to your advantage (I did use the diagonal line in the next 12 sets, LOL).

          Cut the side on the RIGHT side of the ruler *first*.  Go ahead and cut all the way across the strip set.  Move the rest of the strip set aside far enough so you can cut the second side of the triangle without cutting the remaining strip set.

          Make the second cut along the left side of the triangle.

          Open up that triangle, and you have your first block with the solid going down the center of the block!  Yay!

          Align the ruler along the edge that faces away from you, and cut your second block.  It will only take a cut along one side for the second block.

          Now, for the third block, you will have to move again to the folded edge closest to you – but you will need to move it to the right a little, so you get the full triangle.  Again, cut as you did with the first block.

          This will give you approx 1 3/4”-2” x 9 1/2” strip ”scraps”.  But, don’t throw away those scraps, those will be used in our pieced border!

          Keep cutting all of your 13 strip set tubes until you have a total of 64 blocks (you can get 65 blocks, but you will only need 64 for this pattern).

          At this point, I highly recommend starching and re-checking square of each of your blocks.  These are all on-bias, so will have quite a bit of ‘give’ to them.

          Arrange your 64 blocks into an 8 x 8 arrangement and sew them together for the center of the quilt.  If you arrange them right, you will be able to ‘nest’ all the seams so the seams line up easily!

          Now, for the first row of the border, take 7 of your solid strips and sew them together into one long strip.  Cut this strip into two pieces 72.5” long and two pieces 77” long (recheck the measurements of YOUR quilt center to make sure these are correct for yours).  Sew the 72.5” pieces along the left and right sides, then the 77” pieces along the top and bottom sides.  Press.

          Now for the scrap pieced border!  (again, had to use pics from the second set of blocks for the second quilt I’m making for this one)
          You will need 36 pairs of these tiny blocks to make 36 ‘chevron’ blocks (9 for each side of the quilt).
          You can keep them as they are already paired up, or mix/match them as you please.  From the cut-offs that you already have, there will be 26 pairs (2 pairs from each strip set).  So, from the tail end of each strip set, you will need to cut one more pair.
          So, first measure your little ‘scrap’ pieces.  Mine were 2”x9.5”

          You will be cutting one more set from each end of the strip set tube.  Go ahead and cut it as wide as your scrap pieces are.  I cut mine 2” wide.

          These ones will have to be opened up to cut them to length, so go ahead and cut them along the fold line.

          Then, center the 9.5” ruler and cut off the ends – you are trying to make these the same as the first scraps, so make sure you center these so that the seams will line up when you pair them up with the other scrap strips.

          I recommend starching these little cuties now too.  Pair these up and sew them together into 36 cute little chevron blocks!

          If you pair them up properly, the seams will again ‘nest’ and you will be able to match up the seams easily!
          When you press these blocks, press half in one direction and half in the other direction so that when you sew them into a long strip, those middle seams will also nest.

          Sew your 36 little chevron blocks into 4 long strips with 9 blocks in each strip.  These will measure approx. 3.5”x81.5”.  Depending on your final measurements, you might need to add one more partial chevron block to all 4 strips if you intend to do a miter corner like I did, or just to two of the strips if you don’t do a mitered corner.  You should have plenty of scraps left to cut more if necessary.

          This is what the seam will look like between the blocks:

          Sew these long strips along the first solid border.  I chose to miter my corners, but you could chose the easier route and sew left and right, trimming them to fit the length, then sew top and bottom, trimming them to fit.

          Finally, sew 8 of your solid strips into pairs of 2 – and sew on for your final border.

          You have completed your beautiful approx 85” square quilt top!

          Now, baste, quilt as desired, and add binding (from your remaining 9 solid strips).

          A beautiful 85”x85” quilt!

          Ooooh, and how cool does it look with the sun shining through it from the back?!!!

           Like stained glass! 🙂

          Karin Vail
          Cascade Quilts

          Bedazzled Quilt

          As I am preparing this pattern for publication much of the United States of America is frozen. There are even rumors to the effect that Niagara Falls has frozen. That’s cold. The next couple of months is bound to be filled with stories of cold and more cold as we nestle in for winter. However, that doesn’t mean we have to be cold or gloomy in the wet and grey.

          Where I live, in North Texas, it doesn’t usually get very cold for very long. Our winters last a week here and a week there, buffeting us with cold winds and overly bright sunshine. Even so there are often long stretches of gray wet days. This quilt will keep me smiling well into spring.

          Me and My Sister’s latest line “Hubba Hubba” is the perfect remedy for a cold wet winter. Their cheerful pallet and designs are guaranteed to make me giggle and set me to dreaming about spring. Arranged in a happy rainbow and pieced into twinkling off set stars this quilt is perfect for an evening of silly movies and pop corn.

          Focus Fabrics

          • 25 fat quarters – 5 each of 5 colorways (Hubba Hubba by Me & My Sister) 

          Supporting Fabrics

          • 2¾ yards background & inner border fabric (Bella White | 9900-97) 
          • 1 yard dominant solid (one sashing stripe and binding) (Bella Amelia Blue | 9900-167) 
          • 3 – ¼ yard cuts for sashing stripes (Bella Solids Kiwi | 9900-189, Bermuda | 9900-269, and Yellow | 9900-024) 
          • 4½ yards backing (Tiny Daises in Blue | 22216-16)
          • Miscellaneous fat quarters from bundle for pieced outer border


          • 25 large sandwich-sized zip lock baggies – will make it easier to keep your gazillion pieces organized
          • Sand paper – I used a 3 2/3″ x 9″ sheet of fine grade paper that I stole from my husband’s stash in the garage. Place your pieces on top of it when drawing sewing lines, the fabric will not move.

          Bedazzled is made from a total of 25 10″ finished blocks (they actually measure 10½” x 10½” before you sew them into your quilt), set in a 5 x 5 grid with sashing on two sides. The sashing is offset from row to row to create a twinkling effect. For added twinkle I’ve sorted the focus fabric line by colors and highlighted them with random negative blocks. What can be better than candy colored rainbows of stars?!

          NOTE: WOF = width of fabric

          From background fabric, cut:

          • 9 strips measuring 3″ x WOF; subcut into 116 – 3″ x 3″ squares
          • 2 strips measuring 10½” x WOF
            • From 1 strip cut 14 – 3″ x 10½” rectangles
            • From the 2nd strip, cut an additional 11 –  3″ x 10½” rectangles
            • From the remnant of the 2nd strip, cut 4 – 5½” x 5½” squares
          • 6 strips measuring 5½” x WOF
            • From 5 strips, cut into 14 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles (total of 70 rectangles)
            • From the 6th strip, cut an additional 6 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles (for a total of 76 rectangles)
            • From the remnant of the 6th strip, cut 1 – 5½” x 5½” square
          • Set aside remaining background fabric for the inner border. You will need 8 WOF strips but you will need to have the blocks pieced and assembled so you can calculate the dimensions. I will walk you through this step below. 

           From 25 fat quarters (FQs):

          • Select one FQ from each of the 5 colorways to be a negative block. These fabrics will become backgrounds instead of stars. From each of these negative FQs, cut:
            • 4 – 3″ x 3″ squares
            • 4 – 3″ x 5½” rectangles
          • From each of the remaining 20 FQs, cut:
            • 1 – 5½” x 5½” square 
            • 8 – 3″ x 3″ squares 
          • Select a 26th FQ that is more more like your initial background fabric, but not solid. From this FQ, cut:
            • 4 – 3″ x 3″ squares 
            • 4 – 3″ x 5½”” rectangles 
            • 1 – 3″ x 10½” rectangle (for 1/4 sashing on one block) 

          From remaining (and randomly chosen) FQs, cut:

          • 60 – 5½” x 5½” squares for the pieced outer border

            From each of the sashing solids, cut:

            • 2 strips measuring 3″ x WOF (a total of 8 strips)

            From binding fabric, cut:

            • 8 strips measuring 2½” x WOF

              Break time. Really, if you have just cut all of those pieces out it is time to take a break. Pour yourself a glass of something cool and sparkling, take a walk in the fresh air, clear your mind. That is where I am headed right now….and I haven’t even cut out the fabric yet, I just wrote about it.


              • Block kits
                • The directions are written as if you were making one block at a time.  When I want my projects to be more unified (less scrappy) I make them this way.  It is easier to keep all of the same colors together.  If you want a more scrappy project make all of the flying goose units at the same time, randomly selecting squares and rectangles.
                • It might be helpful to sort your stacks of fabric into block kits containing the following pieces
                  • 1, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ square for star center
                  • 4, 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles background for edges
                  • 4, 3″ x 3″ squares background for corners
                  • 8, 3″ x 3″ squares for  star points
                  • 1, 3″ x 10 1/2″ rectangles for 1/4 sashing
                •  Not all of the backgrounds are the same color.  Your sets should break down as follows
                  • 5 kits
                    • stars pieces cut from regular background fabric
                    • backgrounds are cut from fqs
                    • 1/4 sashing cut from regular background fabric
                  • 19 kits
                    • stars cut from fqs
                    • background pieces are cut from the regular background
                    • 1/4 sashing cut from regular background fabric
                  • 1 kit
                    • star pieces are cut from a fq
                    • background pieces are cut from a fq
                    • 1/4 sashing cut from fq
              • Block construction
                • The blocks in this quilt finish at 10″ square.  (10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ actual before sewn into the top)
                • Each block is made from 4 flying goose units, 4 small square patches, and 1 large square patch.
                • Before you call the block done you will also add sashing to 1/4 of it.
                • For each of the 25 kits you need to complete the following steps  (Yes, I have recycled the pictures from another bakeshop project that I did.  The blocks are constructed the same way as the blocks in Midwinter Cozy.  They are however, larger.  The fabrics pictured in the diagrams are from Midwinter Reds by Minick and Simpson)
              • Flying Goose Units
                • Gather from kit
                  • 8, 3″ x 3″ squares
                  • 4, 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangles
                • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each 3″ square (Get out the sand paper.  Place your fabric wrong side up on top of the paper.  The sandy grit will keep your piece from moving as you draw on it.)
                • With right sides together align one square atop one rectangle.
                • Sew along the line but just to the outside. (on the side toward the smallest part of the rectangle
                • Iron flap open – pushing the triangle lying over the larger part of the rectangle up and over the seam.
                • Trim the excess fabric from the back of the patch, or leave it there to help your patch keep it’s shape.  The choice is yours.
                • You now have a rectangle with one corner different.
                • Repeat the process on the opposite side of triangle.
                • Be careful to get the seam going in the right direction.  It should be perpendicular to the seam you already made.
                • Trim unit back to 3″ x 5 1/2″ rectangle
                • Again, you choose to trim the seam allowances or not.
                • Repeat 3 times for a total of 4 units.
              • Block
                • Gather
                  • 4 flying goose units
                  • 4, 3″ x 3″ background squares
                  • 1,5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ star square
                • Sew Rows
                  • Top and bottom
                    • Sew patches together as shown
                    • Iron seam allowances towards the background squares
                  • Center
                    • Sew patches together as shown
                    • Iron seam allowances towards the center
                  • Sew rows together to form square.
                  • Iron seam allowances away from the center block
                    • NOTE: If you chose to not to trim the extra fabric from your goose units you will need to clip the seams to make them lie flat.  Clip the seam allowance ONLY, at the 4 intersections.  This will allow you to iron the bulky seam allowances to remain flat.  They will fall away from the goose units.)
                  • Trim final block to 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″
                • Add the 1/4 sashing piece, 3″ x 10 1/2″  to one side of the block
                • Iron seam allowance towards the sashing
                • Repeat process 24 more times for 25 blocks.
              • The top
                • Rows
                  • Gather
                    • 25, 10 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ blocks (5 in each color way)
                  • Arrange blocks.
                    • This is where a design wall comes in handy.  If you don’t have one, no worries, I don’t have one either (no walls in my studio…really).  You can use the floor, or your bed, or even the curtain on your shower.  You just need a place where you can lay out your pieces.
                    • Once you are satisfied with the layout take a quick picture with your phone.  This will do two things for you
                      • It will help you remember where the pieces go.  AND
                      • It will give you a different perspective – one last peak at the arrangment to make sure you like it.
                    • The blocks should be arranged in 5 rows of 5 with all of the same colorway in the same row.
                    • Alternate rows should have alternate the side of the block where the 1/4 sashing is.
                    • If your rows differ in length – they shouldn’t, but sometimes things happen – you can trim them to equal lengths.  Do this on the  1/4 sashing end of the row.  (The stars are supposed to be offset, no one is going to notice if an end 1/4 sashing is slightly smaller.) 
                    • Sew blocks together to make rows
                    • Iron seam allowances towards the 1/4 sashing.
              • Sashing
                • Gather 
                  • 5 rows with 5 blocks each
                  • 8 – 3″ x WOF strips from solids (2 of each color)
                • Sew solid strips together in matching sets.
                • Iron seam allowances open
                • Sew solids rows between pieced rows.
                • Irons seam allowances towards the solid rows.
              • Inner Border
                • The purpose of this inner border is to make the pieced outer border fit the pieced center.
                • The exact dimensions of the border will vary a little bit from one sewist to another.
                • Record the length and width of your top below.
                  • Length = ___________  (mine was 60″) b
                  • Width = ___________   (mine was 61 1/2″) a
              • Outer Border
                • Gather 60, 5 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ squares
                • Randomly sew 4 sets of blocks
                  • 2 rows of 14
                  • 2 rows of 16
                • Irons seam allowances open.
                • Record the length of each row
                  • 14 block row =  _____________ (mine was 64) A
                  • 16 block row =  _____________ (mine was 72 1/2″) B
              • Inner Border
                • The finished width of the inner border needs to be the difference between the length one side of the top and the corresponding length of the outer border, divided by 2 (because we want it evenly spaced on two sides of the quilt).  Add 1/2″ to this number to get the width you need to cut your strips. 
              • Please don’t be turned off …. this is easy math… you can do it.
              • For the short side (labeled A and a in the picture) you need to figure out x.
                • NOTE: A does NOT include the corner squares.  This is the short side of the quilt.
                • A – a = x = the finished width of this strip
                  • mine was 64 – 61.5 = 2.5
                • (x/2)+ .5″ = the width to cut your inner border
                  • mine was 2.5 / 2 + .5 = 1.25 +.5 = 1.75″
                • Cut 4 strips this wide x WOF
              • For the long side (labeled B and b in the picture) you need to figure out y.
                • B does include the corner squares.  They are already attached to your strip, but they do not effect the width needed for your inner border.  Subtract 9.5″ from B.
                • (B – 9.5″) – b = y = the finished width of this strip
                  • mine was (72.5 – 9.5) – 60 = 3
                • (y/2) + .5″= the width to cut your inner border
                  • mine was 3/2 + .5 = 1.5 + .5 = 2″
                • Cut 4 strips this wide x WOF
              • If you have any trouble figuring this out for your quilt please contact me.  I would be glad to help you.
              • Attach inner borders
                • Short sides first.
                • Iron seam allowances towards the inner border
              • Attach outer borders
                • Short sides first
                • Iron seam allowances towards the inner borders.
              • Layer and quilt as desired.

                One super fun quilted throw measuring approximately 71″ x 73″.

                It is the perfect place to sit and gather giggles with your favorite girl. I’d love to see your finished quilt. Please send me a picture, or add it to the Tops to Treasures flickr group.

                Cindy Sharp