Lamplight Table Runner

Hey there, I am thrilled to be able to share with you my very first recipe for the Moda Bake Shop. I have been quilting for over 17 years, with the last few years being an exponential growth of the art form in my life. Please feel free to visit my blog at Blue Nickel Studios for other free patterns that I have available there under the tab labeled Downloads, as well as the fairly regular posts where I share my thoughts about life, family, quilting, and design.


1 Jelly Roll
1 Charm Pack

10 Fat Quarters (2 {one red and one beige} for piecing the top, and 8 for the back)

1 half yard of Red print for the binding (OR I used one Maison de Garance fat quarter and the matching Jelly Roll strip that I had set aside)

From your Maison De Garance Charm Pack, choose 3 brown charms and 3 red charms, then trim off 1/2″ from one side.

From your Jelly Roll, choose 3 Beige Strips and 3 Brown Strips. From each of these, cut (2) 5″ strips and (2) 8 1/2″ strips.

Keeping the Jelly Roll strips in sets, sew a pair of Beige 5″ strips to the two 5″ sides of one of your trimmed Brown Charms, and repeat with the other two trimmed Brown Charms and Beige 5″ strip pairs. Do the same with the trimmed Red Charms and the pairs of 5″ Brown strips.

Trim a half inch off these sets (as shown), making the units 4.5″ by 8.5″ overall.

Sew the matching pairs of 8.5″ Jelly Roll strips to the tops and bottoms of all the units you just made.

Choose 6 Beige Charms and 6 Brown Charms and cut six 5″ squares from the Red Fat Quarter and six 5″ squares from the Beige Fat Quarter.

Lightly draw a line from one corner to the opposite corner on the 6 Beige charms and the 6 Beige 5″ Fat Quarter squares.

Matching the Beige Charm Squares to the Red 5″ Fat Quarter Squares and the Beige 5″ Fat Quarter Squares to the Brown Charm Squares right side together. Sew 1/4 ” away from the pencil line on the Beige pieces on both sides of the line as shown:

Cut down the pencil line on all of these sets:

Press the Red/Beige units open, pressing 6 towards the Red side and 6 toward the Beige side…

Do the same with the Brown/Beige sets, pressing 6 towards the Brown side and 6 towards the Beige side..

Trim all of these units to 4.5″ squares as shown:

Sew these Triangle/Square units together, matching seams as shown with the pressed diagonal seams going in opposite directions as shown:

Sew these along the Beige sides on the Beige/Red units and the Brown sides of the Brown/Beige units so that you end up with these units:

Sew these Triangle units to the Square in a Square units you made in the beginning:

Sew the three Red/Beige “lantern” units end to end as shown and then do the same with the Brown/Beige “lantern” units.

Cut eight 4.5″ pieces from any remaining Jelly Roll strips and sew four of them side to side to make two units that look like this:

Sew these 4-strip units to the ends of each of your three “lantern” units as shown:

Sew the two “lantern” units together with 4-strip units at opposite ends as shown:

Cut (52) 3.5″ strips from the remaining Jelly Roll strips (you can cut some 2.5″ x 3.5″ pieces from the remaining Charms as needed too).

Sew 26 of these together along their 3.5″ sides for a scrappy side border. Then do the same with the other 26 pieces.

Then sew them to the long sides of the table runner as shown:

Quilt, bind, and enjoy.

This table runner can go from Autumn to Valentine’s Day with a quick change of accessories. I hope you enjoyed this recipe and will come drop by Blue Nickel Studios often for other quilty things going on.

And don’t forget to post a picture of your finished Lamplight Table Runner on the Moda Bake Shop Flickr page as well as the Blue Nickel Studios Flickr page. We look forward to seeing what you cook up….


One tablerunner 22″ x 52″

Scott Hansen
{Blue Nickel Studios}

Antique Etoiles


When looking at Maison de Garance I was reminded of an antiqued cross stitch I’d once seen in the old homestead where my great-grandparents had lived. The cross stitch had a Ukrainian design and the bright whites and reds faded and stained over time. This design emerged as I tried to think of how I could piece something simple, at least simple compared to the intricate designs that can be cross stitched and embroidered. Antique Etoiles, which translates into Antique Stars, was born from there.

1 layer cake, Maison de Garance
1 charm pack, Maison de Garance
2/3 yard Tea background
1/2 yard Oyster background
2/3 yard Red “bars”
2 1/8 yards Old Brown (Border, setting triangles )
4 yards backing fabric
1/2 binding

Cutting

WOF = Width of Fabric, from selvage to selvage.
QST = Quarter Square Triangle

From the Red cut (4) 5” x WOF strips and subcut to a total of (124) 1¼” x 5″ strips, these are the “bars.”

From the Oyster background cut (5) 3 ½” x WOF strips. Sub cut into (60) 3 ½” squares. Cut in half diagonally.

From the Tea background cut (5) 3 ½” x WOF strips. Sub cut into (64) 3 ½” squares. Cut in half diagonally.

Cut (25) Red 3 ½” squares, from the layer cake squares and charm squares.

Cut one 5” x WOF of Old Brown and subcut (6) 5” squares for the QSTs.

For the setting triangles cut (3) 14” squares of Old Brown and cut in half on the diagonal twice.

For the setting triangles cut (1) 7 1/2″ x WOF strips of Old Brown. Subcut into (12) 3 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ strips.

For the corner triangles cut (2) 7 ¼” squares of Old Brown and cut in half once on the diagonal.

Borders- From Old Brown cut (7) 5 1/2″ x WOF. Subcut 1 of the strips in half.

Sewing

Create Quarter Square Triangles that finish at 3″. You can use whatever method you prefer, so long as you can make them from 5″ squares. This is how I made mine.

Draw a line diagonally across each of the Oyster and Tea squares.

Layer one Old Brown and one Oyster 5” square, charm square or cut from the layer cake, right sides together and stitch ¼” on either side of the drawn line. Cut along line and press towards the light side. Repeat 25 times.

Layer one Tea and one Old Brown right sides together and stitch ¼” on either side of the drawn line. Cut along line and press towards the light side. Repeat 25 times.

Layer on Oyster/Old Brown and one Tea/Old Brown squares right sides together with the Old Brown laying on top of each other. Again stitch ¼” on either side of the center line. Cut apart and press open. Line up the 1 ¾” mark on the center and with the line on the ruler on the diagonal through the center. Trim blocks to 3 ½”.

Using the background triangles, stitch one 1 ¼” red strip to the long side of the triangle. Stitch a matching triangle to the other side of the strip. Press away from the strip.

Finger press in half diagonally, so that you can find the center of the red strip lengthwise (figure 1).

Open and finger press diagonally the opposite direction (figure 2).

Open and line up your ruler with the line matching up with the finger pressed line and the 1 ¾” mark on the center and trim to 3 ½” square (figure 3).

Make 48 with Oyster and 64 in Tea.

Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3

Arrange the patches into a 9 patch as per the diagram. Because each set of QSTs yields 4 matching patches, you can have each star have the same fabric points, or you can go random, which is what I did.

Setting Triangles

In the same manner used for the blocks, create 12 additional Oyster and Red “bar” patches.

Take (1) 3 1/2 x 7 1/2″ strip of Old Brown and stitch the Oyster bar patch to the end. Stitch the unit to the bottom of the cut setting triangle. Press.
Line up your ruler across the top and trim off the excess as shown in picture. Repeat so that you have 12 setting triangles.

Layout the quilt on point with the Oyster and Tea squares alternating. Stitch together. Don’t worry about overlap, it can be trimmed off.

Lay your ruler along the quilt top, lining up the points of the blocks with your 1/2″ line. Trim the entire top.

Border #1

Take the 1 Oyster, 1 Tea and 1 Red layer square and cut into 2″ x 10″ strips. Stitch together lengthwise following the pattern Oyster, Tea, Oyster, Tea, Red, Oyster, Tea, Oyster, Tea. Press all in one direction. Subcut into 2″ strips. Make up each border strip with 6 of these sections.

Attach a strip to the top and bottom and press towards the center.

Cut (2) 2 1/2″ squares from both the Old Brown and the Red. Draw a line diagonally across the Red squares. Layer one Old Brown and one Red square right sides together and stitch ¼” on either side of the drawn line. Cut along line and press towards the Red side. Trim to 2″.

Attach one HST to the end of each of the remaining strips. Make sure the red points down and in.
Attach to the sides of the top. Press towards the top.

Border #2

Using the stitch and flip method, attach one half strip to one of the full strips.

Place strips right sides together at a 90 degree angle and stitch from one corner to the other.  Open and press well. Trim to a ¼” seam allowance.

Press. Repeat so you have two of these strips.

Attach one of the strips to each of the sides and press towards the strip.

Using the stitch and flip method again, attach one full length strip to another full length strip. Press. Repeat.

Attach to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press towards the strips.

Now for the for the most loved and hated words in quilting; Baste, Quilt and Bind!

One 64” x 64″ quilt, perfect cozy under this cold winter!

Cara Wilson

Cutting Mat Caddy

Hello Sewing World. It’s me, Melissa 🙂 I am so excited about this new Bake Shop Tutorial. There were two things that prompted me to create this Cutting Mat Caddy. First, I don’t have a designated table for my cutting mat in my sewing room. I wish I did, but my sewing room doubles as an exercise and storage room, so space is tight. My cutting mat is stored under my bed and I am tired of always having to try and wipe dust off of it before cutting. So I created this Caddy to create a storage unit for my mat. Second, I belong to a sewing group that gets together each Tuesday night and sews until Midnight. Ya, we have a blast, but lugging my mat and rulers is sometimes a pain. So I created this Caddy for Simple Travel. And there you have it! If you happen to fall in this same boat, here is the solution!!
And as always, feel free to email me with questions at happyquiltingmelissa(at)gmail(dot)com. You can visit me at Happy Quilting, and add your project to my Happy Quilting Tutorials Flickr Page.
One Layer Cake – Pick a favorite 🙂 I used Hoopla by Moda.
1 2/3 Yards of coordinating print for lining and handles
3 Yards of Heavy Interfacing or Stitch and Tear ( iron-on is not necessary, just get something sturdy)
Small Velcro Squares
STEP 1 – CUTTING
These instructions are for a case that fits a standard 24″ x 36″ mat. If your mat is sized differently, you will have to do a little math 🙂
Start by separating your layer cake into 2 piles. One pile with 30 “slices” of cake that will be used for the caddy case and one pile with 10-12 “slices” of cake that will be used for the pockets.
Grab your pile of 30 “slices”. Stack 3-4 slices on top of each other. Line your ruler up so that you are cutting a 3 5/8″ strip. Cut.
Now repeat cutting a second 3 5/8″ strip.
You now have two 3 5/8″ x 10″ strips and one 2 3/4″ strip.  Repeat this process with all 30 slices.
Set the 3 5/8″ strips aside and line your ruler up along the edge of the 2 3/4″ strip along the 2 3/4″ marking of your ruler. Cut a 2 3/4″ square. Repeat this process with all 30 slices of cake. When completed, cut an additional four 2 3/4″ squares from your favorite four prints.
 
You should now have a total of 60 3 5/8″ Strips and 34 2 3/4″ Squares.
STEP 2 – PIECING THE CASE
We’ll make the basic block for the case first. Grab 2 of your 3 5/8″ x 10″ strips. Make sure not to grab the same print or color, try to keep them mixed up.
 
Place right sides together. Pin along the edge. Repeat this process until you have pinned 20 sets.
Chain stitch your pieces with a scant 1/4″ seam. It is important to do a scant 1/4″ seam (just smaller than 1/4″) so that your blocks line up.
Trim the threads between each of your pieces.
Press your seams open on all 20 sets.
And this is what you have. You are now ready to add the last strip onto your pieced block. Grab your remaining 20 strips. Add them to your blocks using the same directions as before.
You now have 20 blocks needed to make the case.
Lay your blocks out using the picture as a guide for your layout. Play with the blocks until you get a layout that is pleasing to the eye.
Sew your rows together. Sew block 1 and 2 together in each row and block 3 and 4 together in each row. Then sew your pieced block 1 and 2 to your pieced block 3 and 4 in each row.
Sew Row 1 to Row 2. Sew Row 3 to Row 4. Then sew Row 5 to your pieced Row 3 and 4. Lastly, sew your pieced Row 1 and 2 to your pieced Row 3, 4, and 5.
Now you are ready to make your top borders. Grab the 34 2 3/4″ squares. We will be sewing these into 2 rows of 17 squares. The easy way to do this is by setting 2 squares aside. Sew the remaining 32 squares into 16 sets of 2.
Take your 16 sets of 2 and sew them into 8 sets of 4. Then sew the 8 sets of 4 into 4 sets of 8, and lastly, sew the 4 sets of 8 into 2 sets of 16. Now grab those 2 extra squares you set aside and add one to each set making 2 sets of 16. Press. Now they are ready to add to the top and bottom (which will become another top) of your case.
Lay your pieced squares right sides together along the top and bottom of the case. Pin. Sew a 1/4″ seam along both rows and press.
Now your case top is complete. It should look like this 🙂
STEP 3 – INTERFACING AND QUILTING

Cut your interfacing in half. Now lay it along the wrong side of your material leaving a 1/4″ along the edge of raw material. It will lay over itself in the center. You can trim as necessary or just leave it. Pin around the edges just to tack it down.

Now turn your case over. Starting in the center, baste your quilt. Smooth out any wrinkles and continue to pin in an outward motion. Remove pins from the back as necessary to smooth out wrinkles.
When you have finished basting, remove any pins that are still in the back. You don’t want to run over these when quilting. 🙂
Attach the free motion foot to your machine and go ahead and quilt the top. This is a little tricky as the interfacing is pretty stiff. I found rolling it to be the best option. (side note . . . If you don’t like the look of it quilted, you can skip this step).
Now your top is quilted and ready to start being made into the Caddy.
STEP 4 – POCKETS

Fold your top in half with wrong sides together. Now, gather up what you want to make pockets for and lay them as you desire. This is where your own individual needs will require you to do a little math.
***Please note that if you have a ton of rulers or just don’t want pockets you can skip them all together. There is room inside with your mat to carry along any rulers you might need for your project
To figure out the size of your pocket, take the size of your item or ruler and add 1 1/2″. For example, I have a 6″ x 24″ ruler so I want my pocket pieces to be 7 1/2″ x 25 1/2″. For each pocket you want a top and a lining (so 2 pieces) Grab the 10-12 layer cake slices you set aside earlier. Obviously, they are not 25 1/2″ long, so you have to piece them together. (yup, more math, just remember add 1/2″ for each seam you have) To make my 7 1/2″ x 25 1/2″ I cut 4 pieces 7 1/2″ x 10 and 2 pieces 7 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
Now simply sew your pieces together using a 1/4″ seam. Continue this process for all of your pockets.
For each pocket you make, you are going to want a “top”. Simply cut them the width of your pocket x 2 1/2″.  So whereas all of my pockets were 7 1/2″ wide, I cut 8 (4 tops, and 4 linings) 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces.
Here are my pockets all cut and pieced together and ready to be sewn up. I know this part is a little tricky so if you get confused, please don’t hesitate to contact me via email. 

Now to sew up the pockets. Everyone has probably sewn something up like this before. Place your 2 pocket pieces (top and lining) right sides together. Pin along the edges leaving an opening. Now sew a 1/4″ seam (black line) along the edge leaving an opening at the top (where my hand is :). Remember to back-stitch at the beginning and end to lock your stitches.

Now Turn your piece right side out. Use a pencil to poke out the edges so you get nice crisp corners.
Press your pocket nice and flat. Make sure your seams are not tucked in when you press.  Fold the raw edges in and press. I have lifted them slightly so you can see what they should look like.
Sew a line across the top that has your raw edge. I sewed about 1/8″ seam. This closes the raw edge. Repeat the process with all of your pockets.
You are going to make your pocket tops the exact same way you made your pockets except for the very last step. Instead of just sewing along the edge with the raw seam, Sew along the 2 sides and the edge. This way you have the same finishing look as your pockets 🙂
Now grab your Velcro squares. You want to add your Velcro to the lining side of your pocket top and to the right side of your pocket. Make sure to line up your Velcro so that they will meet up when attached to your caddy case. I found it best to center it and then line it up directly under the seam you just stitched. Attach your Velcro using the stitched diagram below. Remember, back-stitch to lock your stitches.
If you like the look of appliqué, now is the time to add it. Grab your scraps from your layer cake and cut out some cute flower designs. (Remember, this is optional)
Zig-zag or blanket stitch around your appliqué. Unfortunately, I added mine as an afterthought, when I was all done, so I wasn’t able to do that important little step.
Now that your pockets are made (and decorated if you like) go ahead and line them up on your caddy top. Make sure you have unfolded your mat as you don’t want to sew the two sides together. Pin your tops and pockets on. Sew along the edge (once again I used about 1/8″ seam) using the sewing guide below (black lines). Do this for each pocket. Oh, and I am going to be honest, this is a little hard so if you have a walking foot, use it, it will help immensely!!
Your top should look something along the lines of this now 🙂
STEP 5 – MAKING THE CASE

You are now ready to make your top into a case. Fold your caddy case top right sides together. Pin along both side edges and sew 1/4″ seam along both side edges.
Turn your mat right side out again. It should look something like this 🙂

STEP 6 – ADDING THE LINING

Grab your piece of coordinating fabric. You are going to cut a square measuring 38″ x 52″ out of it. So first cut a 56″ long piece. Now fold it in half along the fold line and cut 3″ off the top. Set the two 3″ x 52″ piece and the remaining yardage aside for later. Take your square and fold it right sides together (short way, it should be a 26″ x 38″ square now). Pin along the two sides and sew 1/4″ seam along both sides.

Slide your lining into the case. The easiest way to do this is to put your mat in your lining first. Then with the mat giving it the proper shape, slide your lining into your case.
Slide it all the way in until your lining raw edges match up with your case raw edges.
Pin the two pieces together along the edges.
STEP 7 – BINDING THE TOP

Alright, now grab those (2) 3″ x 52″ pieces. Cut the selvage off. We are going to make them into a binding strip. Sew your two pieces together and then iron your entire strip in half.

Now to attach it. This is just like attaching a binding strip to a quilt only it is a little 3-D and you don’t have to worry about corners. Leave a few inches of binding strip and then begin sewing your binding strip to the inside lining of the mat.
Keep attaching, removing pins from the back as you go, and pushing the rest of the caddy out of the way 🙂
When you reach the end, sew your two end pieces of binding strip together and then sew down just like you would a quilt. If you have never done a binding strip, please see the following tutorial for clearer instructions: http://www.modabakeshop.com/2010/08/binding-with-jelly-roll.html
Fold your binding strip edge over and attach it to the outside of your case. You can hand sew this if you like, but I despise hand sewing so I just use my machine 🙂
And there you have it. All you need now are a few handles. So let’s get to them.

STEP 8 – ADDING THE HANDLES

Grab the remaining piece of your coordinating yardage. You are going to cut off a strip that will make your two handles. I wanted my handles skinny so I only cut a 4″ strip. (We will be making a double folded bias for the handles so whatever you cut divide by 4 to figure your total width.) If you want your handles fatter go ahead and cut your strip wider. Once you have cut your strip, trim the selvages and cut the entire strip in half.

Now that you have your strips, let’s make then into handles. Start by ironing the entire strip in half (top strip). Then open up what you just ironed and iron the top and bottom to the center crease (bottom strip).
Fold the top over onto the bottom. Your two strips should now look like this. Sew an 1/8″ seam along the edge of both sides of your strip. (top strip black lines) One will close up the strip and the other is purely just to make it look the same as the other side.
Fold your edge over 1″ (or whatever is a square for your handle width). Finger press. Do this with all four edges.
Find the center of your mat. Then measure out 3 1/2″ to 4″ and pin your handle just below the stitched edge of your binding. Then find the center again and measure out 3 1/2″ to 4″ in the other direction and pin the other end of your handle. Repeat the process on the other side of your carrying case and then check to make sure your handles line up.
Stitch the handles on using the same pattern you used to attach the Velcro earlier. Once again, this isn’t super easy but it is manageable and you only have to do it 4 times. Remember to use your walking foot if you have one, since you are going through a lot of layers 🙂
And there you have it!! Your own Cutting Mat Caddy!!
One super chic and adorable Cutting Mat Caddy.

Melissa Corry
{Happy Quilting}

Gym Dandy Bag

Thanks for checking out my project.  This is my fourth Bake Shop post and I couldn’t be more excited.  What an honor to be part of this talented group of designers.

In addition to designing patterns for bags, quilts, runners, and wool felt projects, I also own Prairie Point Junction quilt shop in Cozad, Nebraska.  Be sure to stop by and visit us if you happen to be traveling across Nebraska. You can find us online at http://www.prairiepointjunction.com/ or on my Prairie Ramblings blog at http://www.woolfeltcentral.blogspot.com/.

This handy little bag is perfect for transporting clothes to and from the gym  – or especially for kids to take gym clothes back and forth between home and school.  It is lined with PUL, a water resistant fabric, to keep the rest of the things you’re carrying along all nice and tidy.  The bag also works great for wet swimsuits! 

I’ve tried to make the tutorial pretty detailed so that even a novice sewer can accomplish this project with great success.  Don’t let the zipper scare you away  –  I’ll show you just how easy it is.

Happy sewing,

Julie

  • 1 Fandango Charm Pack (will need at least 21 charms)
  • 1/2 yard Fandango (27050-11) for bag top and handles
  • 1/2 yard PUL  –  water resistant fabric
  • 14″ zipper
  • 505 Temporary Basting Spray
  • thread to match fabric for bag top and handles
 
Choose 21 charm squares for patchwork.

Cut each into two 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ pieces.
From the 1/2 yard for bag top and handles cut:
(2) 3″ x 36″ pieces for handles
(2) 4 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ pieces for tote bag top
(2) 5″ x 14 1/2″ pieces for bag facing
(1) 1 1/2″ x 4″ piece for zipper tabs
From the PUL fabric cut:
(2) 14 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ pieces for tote bag lining
Now that the cutting is out of the way, you’re ready to get down to the business of sewing your bag.
First, we’ll sew the patchwork for the bag bottom:
Arrange the 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles cut from the charm pack in rows of 7 rectangles each.  You’ll need a total of 6 rows  –  3 for the bag front and 3 for the bag back.  In my pictures below, I just show three rows.  There’s no magic formula for arranging the rectangles, just do whatever you like.  Mostly the only thing I shoot for is making sure that the same colors/prints are not side by side. 
Start sewing the rectangles together into rows.  I like to save time when I can, so I chain piece my rectangles together.  To get started, pair the rectangles (in column two) right sides together with the rectangles in column 1.   Sew each together, but keep sewing when you get to the end of each set, “chaining” the sets together like little sausage links.

Now, take your chain over to your ironing board.  Keep them all chained together  –  resist the urge to cut them apart!
Press the seams for each row in opposite directions.  This will help your seams nest together when you join the rows and will help you line those seams up perfectly. 
Don’t cut that chain apart yet . . . .  Head back over to your sewing machine.
Pick up the pieces from column three.  Sew each piece to the appropriate row in your chain.  Keep on chaining those pieces together.  Take them over to the ironing board.  Press seams in opposite direction.
Repeat with each column until you’ve sewn the rectangles into 6 rows of 7 rectangles each.  I’ve just shown three rows below.

Join three rows together to form the bag front. Then join three rows together for the back of the bag.  Remember how you carefully pressed the seams in each row in opposite directions?  That’s going to come in handy now.  Your seams should just nest right beside each other to help you perfectly line up where seams intersect.  I find that I don’t usually even have to pin the seam at this point since everything matches so nicely.  But that’s just me  –  feel free to pin if you like.

Press the seams for the bag front up –  and the seams on the bag back down.  That will help the seams nest when you join the sides together later.

Whew,  now it’s starting to look a little more like something, right?

Prepare the handles for the bag.  Fold the 3″ x 36″ rectangle in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together.  Press.

Open the strip and bring the raw edges together to meet at the center fold.  Press.

Fold strip in half lengthwise again and press.

Topstitch close to both sides of the handle.

Place raw ends of handle along the top edge of the bag front.  Position the edge of handle along the seam between the 2nd and 3rd rectangle in the top row.  See the picture below for placement suggestion.  Be sure that your handle lays flat and doesn’t have any twists in it from one side to the other.  Baste the handle in place.  Repeat on the bag back.

Sew the 4 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ bag top section to the pieced bag bottom, catching the raw edge of the handle in the seam.  Be sure to keep the loop of the handle out of the way of your stitching.

Press towards bag bottom, flip handle upwards.

Topstitch next to the seam on the patchwork section.
Next we’re going to apply the PUL to the back of the bag sections.  {PUL} stands for polyurethane laminated fabric.  It is designed to be water resistant.  Here are few tips for sewing with PUL that will make sewing much easier:
  • The slick side of the PUL is the right side, the knit side of the PUL is the wrong side.
  • Be sure to keep any pins within the seam allowance of the PUL fabric to avoid piercing the fabric and compromising the water resistant nature of the fabric.
  • Do NOT directly iron the PUL fabric.  It can melt and cause a huge mess.
  • Sew with PUL fabric on the bottom layer, when possible.
  • When sewing with two layers of PUL, it may be helpful to place a layer of tissue paper on top of the PUL fabric.
  • Lengthen stitches slightly and use a walking foot, if available.
Now that we have that out of the way, we can carry on  . . .
Put some newspaper or other scrap paper on your floor or cutting table to protect the surface from overspray.
Lay the 14 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ piece of PUL on the paper with the knit side UP and the slick side DOWN.
Spray lightly with 505 brand temporary basting spray.
Lay the bag front wrong sides UP on another piece of paper,  Be sure to keep handles tucked under the bag.  Lightly spray with basting spray.  By spraying both the bag and the PUL, you’ll create a better bond to hold the pieces in place for sewing.
Very carefully lay the knit side of PUL on the wrong side of the outer bag, matching up raw edges.  Smooth out wrinkles as best as you can.
Baste a very scant 1/4″ around entire bag to hold layers together.  Be sure to keep your basting within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t pierce the PUL beyond the seam allowance.
Repeat with bag back.
Prepare the facing next.
Finish one edge of the 5″ x 14 1/2″ facing piece.  Fold under a scant 1/4″, along one raw 14 1/2″ edge, press.  Fold under 1/4″ again, press.  Topstitch close to folded edge.   Repeat on second facing piece.

The next steps will prepare the zipper.  A zipper  –  EEEK  –  you say?  No worries, this zipper method is easy peasy.  You’ll wonder why you’ve never done a zipper before.

Prepare a tab for the zipper ends.  This will be just like making a “binding” for the end of the zipper.  It does away with all that funky little bulky business of the zipper stop that can create tons of problems for the zipper-phobic crowd.

We’re going to follow the same basic steps that we used for the handle above.  First fold the 1 1/2″ x 4″ fabric for the zipper tab in half lenthwise with the wrong sides together.  Press

Now, unfold the strip, and fold the raw edges in to meet at the center crease.  Press.

Now, fold one more time and press.

Grab your zipper.  Open it just a few inches.  Sew the ends of the zipper together so they’ll stay where you want them later.  (Sorry I changed zipper colors on you for a few pictures.  I got a little carried away sewing and forgot to take pictures, so had to back-track.)

Trim off the zipper stop at the end of the zipper.

Tuck the basted end of the zipper into the binding strip you created.  Topstitch along the edge of the binding strip, catching the zipper in the binding. 
Trim the binding strip even with the edges of the zipper.

Cut the zipper down to 13 1/2″.  Tuck the raw end of the zipper into the remainder of the binding strip.  Topstitch along edge of binding strip.  Trim binding strip even with edges of zipper.

Position the zipper right sides down on the bag front, centering along the width.  The zipper should be 1/2″ shorter on each side than the width of the bag.  That’s O.K.!  This will accomodate for the width of the seam allowance and a little bit of extra bulk to boot.

Carefully pin the zipper to the bag, making sure to keep any pins within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t puncture the PUL. 

Baste a scant 1/4″ from edge of zipper.  You can either use a zipper foot for this step, or can actually use your regular sewing foot  –  BUT  –  it will be helpful to move your needle position clear over to the far left.  (Be absolutely sure you are using a sewing foot with a wide opening  –  NOT a 1/4″ foot, or you’ll break your needle).

Layer the raw edge of the facing piece right sides together with the bag front, catching the zipper between the layers.  Sew facing to bag using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  I find it easiest to sew from the wrong side of the outer bag.  That way I can see where my basting stitches were and can make sure that I am sewing a deep enough seam to encase them.

Fold the facing to the inside of the bag.  Now, if you are super careful, you can do just a tiny bit of pressing here.  Use a cool iron and very carefully, press the seam ONLY along the zipper.  Do NOT touch the PUL with your iron.
Lay the bag back right sides up on your table.  Align the raw edge of the zipper, right sides together with the bag back.  (The right sides of the bag front and back will be touching).  Stitch a scant 1/4″ seam allowance to attach the zipper to the bag back.
Layer the raw edge of the remaining facing piece right sides together with basted edge of the zipper.  Sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Fold the facing to the inside of the bag.  You can gently press here just a little bit again.
Topstitch close to the zipper tape along the seam.  You can either use a zipper foot for this step, or you can move your needle position all the way to the right.
Here’s what your bag should look like now:
Now it gets just a tad bit tricky.  The next step looks a little strange, but stay with me here, it really does work. 
First of all, be sure to OPEN your zipper  BEFORE proceeding.  If you don’t, you’ll sew your bag all the way shut and won’t be able to turn it inside out without ripping open your seam allowance that you just worked so hard to sew.
Now, repeat after me,  “OPEN your zipper BEFORE proceeding.”  You can thank me later . . .
Fold the bag in half right sides together.  Here’s the strange part . . .  Fold the facing section up. 
Very carefully pin around the sides and bottom of bag, being sure to keep all your pins within the 1/4″ seam allowance so that you don’t pierce the PUL.

Sew the side and bottom seams of the bag, including the facing section, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. 
To finish the seams, use a wide zig zag to encase the raw edges.
Turn bag right sides out.  Fold the facing down inside the bag.
Now, put on your running shoes and take a lap around the block.  You’ve finished your Gym Dandy Bag.
1 Handy Gym Dandy Bag
Thanks for sticking with me through this tutorial.  Need supplies?  Be sure to visit my website at http://www.prairiepointjunction.com/
Julie Geiger

Log Cabin Baby Blocks



Hi! I’m Sarah and I’m so excited to bring you my second Moda Bake Shop recipe! This is a fun quilting project where you don’t just make a flat quilt block, you really make a block! You can create precious blocks for baby with the soft and sweet Lily & Will line by Bunny Hill make a super-sized pincushion with a bright and modern print.

Log cabin blocks are simple and fun! They are a great way to ease into quilting because the blocks are very forgiving. No worrying about points matching up and if your seam allowance isn’t perfect, no one will even notice! If you are an experienced quilter, the log cabin block is simple and quick, and makes an adorable gift!


1 or 2 Charm Packs, I used Bunny Hill Designs’ Lily & Will
(6) 4-1/2″ squares of muslin or scrap fabric (fabric is not visible when project is complete)
(6) 4-1/2″ squares of your choice of batting, I use Warm & Natural
polyester stuffing
coordinating thread
rotary cutter
ruler
cutting mat

1. Decide which fabrics you’d like to use for your block. Using 2 charm packs, I made 3 blocks: 1 pink, 1 green and 1 blue. Sort your charms into color families to make choosing prints easier.

2. Choose the fabrics for your log cabin blocks! You can make a mock-up arrangement with your charm squares as shown below. Typically a log cabin block has two adjacent sides in one color and the other two sides in a second color, but you can choose whatever arrangement you’d like! I choose creams and browns for two sides and pink/blue/green for the other two sides.

3. When you are happy with the arrangement, cut your center piece into a 1-1/2” square. Each “log” will be made from 1” strips cut from the charm squares. You won’t use up all the fabric, so I cut just as many strips as I needed. (If there’s a fun print you want to highlight, feel free to fussy cut and even omit one set of strips and cut your center square 2-1/2”. I fussy cut the bunny out of the larger-scale print for a center and also fussy cut “logs” from the border print.)

4. To create the log cabin block, you simply sew one strip on a time, going around the center square and building upon each previous strip. See the numbered diagram below. Use a 1/4” seam. Build your block one “log” at a time. You can use your fingers to gently press the seams open before adding each strip or press open with your iron. Trim excess at least once each time around the center square. You can use a single strip for two of the shorter “logs.” Depending on how accurate your 1/4″ seam is, the logs will all finish to 1/2″ wide.

6. Repeat steps 2 – 5 for each block, until you have six blocks that measure 4 1/2” square.

7. Cut (6) 4 1/2” squares of batting and (6) 4 1/2” squares of muslin or scrap fabric.

8. Make a quilt sandwich with muslin on the bottom, batting in the middle and your finished log cabin block on top. Quilt as desired. I like a to sew a square spiral starting in the center, but a diagonal grid or stippling would also work well! The purpose of the quilting is to make the sides of your completed block sturdier. But is decorative as well. Be sure to pull the ends of your threads to the backing by pulling the bobbin thread. Then tie the ends so your quilting won’t come undone, especially if this will be a toy. I used a bright thread so you could see the quilting pattern, but you’ll want to use a coordinating neutral just in case the bobbin thread pulls up to the top.

9. Arrange your six blocks into two rows of three. Sew together at side seams using a 1/4” seam allowance, right (pieced) sides together, so raw edges will be hidden.

10. This is where your flat miniature quilts turn into a three dimensional project! Keeping the pieced sides toward the inside, fold the block rows into a “C” shape.

Using a single seam, sew the two block rows together as shown below, again with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  If you stitch just about 3/4″ in from the corners on either side of the opening the turned and finished block will have cleaner points.

This may be a little awkward, but just remember to pivot 1/4″ from the corners with the needle in the down position. Before sewing each side, align the layer edges. It’s also helpful to reinforce your stitching at the corners so the stitches don’t come loose as you turn it right side out. You’ll find it’s easier than it looks!

 

11. Turn your cube inside out and stuff with polyester fiberfill.You can make a very soft or firm block.

12. Hand stitch the opening closed using a slipstitch or ladderstitch.

You’re all done!


1 Charm Pack has more than enough fabric to complete a single block. With 2 Charm Packs I made 3 coordinating blocks with fabric scraps to spare. Give a single block or a set as a special baby shower gift or 1st birthday gift!

Make a few plain (1 fabric per side) blocks with leftover charm squares to go along with Log Cabin Baby Blocks to quickly create a gift!

Sarah Meyer
{sew.sarahbdesigns.net}

Spun Sugar

Hi all! I know many of you may have the same line of thinking that I do when I see a fabric line that I just adore – I love Jelly Rolls, but they’re too small of a cut for large print fabric. I love charm packs, but sometimes I need more. I LOVE Layer Cakes, but sometimes I just want more (it’s not bad to be greedy over fabric, is it?) And that’s how we come to this, enough love to go around with a Fat Eighth Bundle. You get just enough of the line to LOVE LOVE LOVE!!!
With just one Fat Eighth Bundle, a border print, and a Main Backing fabric, you too can make one twin size quilt. No extra binding, no extras of anything else, you get it all and then some out of the Fat Eighth Bundle! Want to see how? Follow along…
* One Fat Eighth Bundle (I used Sugar Pop by Liz Scott)
* 2 yards for Borders (I used #18060 21)
* 4 yards for backing (I used #18064 12)
That’s it, now moving on…
 
Choose 35 Fat Eighths to become the blocks, pieced border and binding. Set 5 Fat Eighths aside to be used in the backing of the quilt. (Try to use whatever fabric you’re using for the backing in the quilt top and the border fabric in the back of the quilt)
*Important note: the following instructions are for the 35 Fat Eighths to be used in the quilt top. Cut each of these pieces exactly the same following the diagram in the top corner of the pictures. The yellow highlighted piece is the one being demonstrated in each photo.

Begin by straightening the edge of the fabric and then cutting a long strip from the side. Cut this piece the length of the fabric and make it as wide as you make your binding strips (usually 2 1/4″-2 1/2″ wide). I’m cutting mine 2 1/4″ wide. Set these aside for now.

Straighten one shorter edge of the fabric and trim two segments 3″ wide from this end.

Cut each segment into two 3″ squares. Keep these in sets of two matching squares.

From the remaining fabric, cut a strip 2 1/2″ wide and one 3 1/2″ wide.

Trim each of these strips into a 9 1/2″ and a 4 1/2″ length.
Keep all four pieces cut in this step together in a set. Put aside for now.

Of the border print, cut six strips 2 1/2″ wide and eight strips 6 1/2″ wide.

Pair contrasting sets of the 3″ squares, creating 35 pairs (one for each block). Remember, contrast is key!
(If you are planning on using an angling tool to make Half Square Triangle blocks – highly recommended – skip the next step)
Otherwise for each paired set mark a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the lighter fabric squares. (I forgot to take pictures of these steps – sorry. But, for a how to guide on Half Square Triangles visit my blog and read my tutorial on how to accurately make Half Square Triangles step by step).
Match two of the contrasting squares from each set (one light, one dark) right sides together and sew 1/4″ from both sides of the drawn line (or use the angling tool for this step)
Cut along the drawn line or from corner to corner. Press to the darker fabric. Continue to keep the sets together.
Each Half Square Triangle unit should measure 2 1/2″ square. If they do, “square” or “true up” your piecing.

Sew together two of the Half Square Triangles from each set as shown above. Repeat for all of the sets, making two identically sewn pairs. Press the seam in the same direction as the other seams.

Rotate one of the pairs from the set and nestle the seams together.

Pin to secure the piece and stitch together.

Cut a slit in the center of the seam allowance (not through the stitching) and press the seams all circling in the same direction. This will help your block lay nice and flat and reduce bulk in the process. Repeat these steps to make all 35 pinwheels.

Match each of the pinwheel blocks with a set of the last four cut pieces from each Fat Eighth. Remember once again, contrast is key!

Stitch a 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ piece on one side of the pinwheel and a 3 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ piece on the opposite side. Press away from the pinwheel.

Sew a 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ on one side of the block and a 3 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ piece on the opposite side. Once again press away from the pinwheel. Make all 35 blocks the same.

Layout all blocks until you have the colors balanced in a way that is pleasing to you.

Begin twisting the blocks so the pinwheel is anchored in a corner. The arrows above show which corner the pinwheel should be anchored in. (This way, there are virtually no seams to line up besides the ones created when sewing each block together. It is VERY forgiving if you should happen to make a mistake…not that it ever happens…) If you notice, every other block is anchored in the same corner.

Sew on the first border consisting of the 2 1/2″ strips cut earlier.
Choose 13 of the long strips cut and set aside earlier from the Fat Eighths to be used for the next border. Cut each of these strips into two or three random lengths.

I then threw mine into a clean paper bag and randomly drew them out one at a time to sew into one long chain.
The chain will be quite long. Press all of the seams in one direction.

If you sew this border onto the quilt always with the seam towards you (like in the picture above) you will not have to worry about the seam flipping positions on you and it will make it much easier to attach the next border.
Sew this pieced border onto the quilt, one side at a time.

Sew the last border onto the quilt using the 6 1/2″ wide strips cut earlier.

Remember these five fabrics we set aside at the beginning? Now it’s their turn to be used. Trim these prints (like the border strips) into random lengths anywhere from 9″ x 9″ – 9″ x 15″ or so. Also trim the backing fabric into two equal length pieces approximately 72″.

Sew the random pieces into another large pieced strip. Trim this strip to match the length of the larger backing pieces. (measure to get it exact or really close)

Sew the pieced strip in between the two backing pieces. Press away from the pieced strip.

With 16 of the remaining long strips from each Fat Eighth, stitch these together to make yourself a scrappy binding to match the quilt. Press the length of the strip in half, wrong sides together making one really long strip.

Quilt however your heart desires, this is what I happened to do on mine. Attach your binding and…

Voila! One absolutely adorable (or handsome if made for a guy) twin size quilt!

Complete with a pieced back to add a little flair. (You either have to add this pieced strip in the back or get an additional piece for backing as 4 yards will not be enough, but once you see this, why wouldn’t you want to add the pieced strip in? Plus you already have the fabric for it in the Fat Eighth Bundle!)

You can see how using the strips in many parts of the quilt ties it all together.

And the quilting just finishes it off.

Wouldn’t this just be perfect for a growing kid?

Stop by my blog and say hi! or e-mail me if you have any questions about this tutorial. I’d love to see any pictures of your version of this quilt. You can e-mail them to me and I’ll post them on my blog or you can add them to the Moda Bake Shop group on Flickr. Until next time!

Rebecca Silbaugh

Ruby Blue Quilting Studio
{rubybluequilts.blogspot.com}

Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS-Ruffled-Shower-Curtain1

Hi there! I have a fun recipe for you today. What’s better than beautiful, frilly ruffles? Not much! If you’re on a ruffle kick, this project is for you 🙂 It’s super simple. I hope you enjoy it!

2 Bliss Jelly Rolls
1 Bella Solid Jelly Roll, red
1 inexpensive, plain shower curtain (72″ length x 70″ width)

2 yd jumbo ricrac

1. Let’s take a look at your shower curtain. It should measure approximately 72″ long and 70″ wide. Lay your curtain out flat, right side up.

MBS Post

2. Draw a horizontal line right below the grommets with a pencil or marking pen. Continue to draw horizontal lines every 2″ along the length of the curtain. A yardstick will come in very handy for this! You should end up with approximately 35 lines, depending on the style of your curtain.

MBS Post

3. The number of horizontal lines you drew in Step 2 (mine was 35) is the total number of ruffle strips needed. Each ruffle requires 3 jelly roll strips. I sorted my Bliss jelly rolls by color and made a pile of my Bella Solid red jelly roll strips.

4. Grab 3 strips from the same color pile, trim selvages, and sew the short ends right side together to create a long strip. Press seams.

5. Using your favorite gathering method, gather each strip from Step 4 to measure the width of your shower curtain (70″).

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

6. Repeat Steps 4-5 until you have the necessary number of ruffle strips, as determined in Step 2.

I made 10 long ruffle strips (3 jelly rolls each) with the red Bella Solid and 25 long ruffle strips with Bliss.

7. Now comes the fun part! Layout the ruffle strips to determine which order to sew them in.

8. Starting from the bottom of the curtain, line up the top edge of the ruffle strip with the horizontal line. Sew the ruffle strip in place, using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

9. Repeat the same process for each horizontal line, moving upward.

10.  The top horizontal ruffle will have an unsightly raw edge, so let’s fix that! Sew your coordinating jumbo ricrac right over the raw edge.

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

MBS Ruffled Shower Curtain

11. Hang your sassy, ruffled shower curtain and voila!

1 Ruffled Shower Curtain.

new

Jenny Garland
{jennygarland.com}