Field of Tulips Quilt

Hello! My name is Crystal Hendrix. This is my very first Moda Bake Shop Recipe! I have had a lot of fun putting it together. You can visit me at my blog and see other things that I make.

This is a fun quilt to help get everyone in the spring spirit!

1 layer cake 1933 by Chloe’s Closet

1 charm pack 1933 by Chloe’s Closet

1 3/4 yard Bella Solid Feather (background color)

1 ½ yard green color for borders

3 1/2 yard of any color for the backing

5/8 yard of any color for the binding

Take from your layer cake and your charm pack, coordinating colors for the tulips flowers.

Cut layer cake piece into 10” x 6 7/8”

With the remaining piece of the layer cake, cut it into (4) 2 1/8” squares.

With the charm pack piece, cut it into (4) 2 ½ “squares.

With the Bella White fabric cut into (4) 2 ½” squares. Then draw a diagonal line across square.

Pin each 2 ½” white square to each 2 ½” colored square.

Sew a ¼” from the diagonal line on each side.

Cut on the line of each square.

Press open toward the colored side, then clip off tag pieces.

Arrange in the following diagram and sew together.

This makes 1 tulips flower. You will need 20 tulip flower blocks.

Once you have all of your flower blocks done, arrange your blocks to fit your preference.

For sashing, you will need to cut (49) 10”x2 ½” pieces out of your Bella white.

Then cut (20) 2 ½”x 2 ½” squares out of your green border color.

Lay out your design and sew each row into place. Press to one side of each row.

Once you have all of your rows (sashing and tulips) pin at seams and sew together. If you flip your sashing piece you will have your seams butt together nicely.

Now after all of your rows are sewed together, it is time for the green border you will need to cut (7) 5”x42”.
Then lay out your quilt top and with your borders. Sew the vertical pieces on first, then the horizontal pieces on.
After you have sewed on your borders and have pressed them, you can now baste, quilt as desired and bind.

One Spring Quilt approximately 58”x69”

Whimsy Square Baby Quilt

Hi everyone! I’m Cara from caraquilts and I wanted to share with you an idea for all those wonderful mini charm packs or petites fours from the Moda Bake Shop Sampler. This project is quick and doesn’t take a huge investment, and with the pieced border looks way more difficult than it is.Which makes it great to make with the fabrics that are maybe out of your normal range or your favorites.

-mini Whimsy charm pack (2.5” squares)
-matching Whimsy charm pack (5” squares)
-½ yd cream (borders)
-1/2 yd outer border
-1/4 yd binding

Please read all the directions first.
Cut from each of 40 charm squares (4) 1.25 strips.
-From one of the strips cut two 1.25”*2.50”
-Sub cut the other two strips into 1.25”*4”
-Set aside the remaining 1.25*5” strip for the pieced inner border.
Separate the pieces into a light and dark pile. It doesn’t matter if the charms are really dark or light, this will just help you keep from having blocks that you can’t tell the difference in the fabrics.
Sew one 1.25*2.5 strips to either side of the mini charm making. Press away from the center.

Add the 1.25*4” strips and press away. Repeat with the remaining mini charm pieces until you have all 40 sewn and measuring 4″ square.

Because the mini packs only have 40 squares you will need to make up two blocks somehow. I sewed together 5 of the extra strips and pressed well. I then trimmed to 4”. This left me with 4 strips .75” finished and one just a scrap showing. You could also cut down two of your favorite charms from the charm pack which has 42 squares. Which ever you prefer.

Arrange the blocks into a pleasing layout. Mine is 7×6. Sew together rows and then sew the rows together.

Measure your top so far. It should be roughly 22”*26”.

Cut your inner borders 1.25” by Width of Fabric (WOF). Sub cut to fit the short side of your top. Sew and press away. Measure and sub cut your long side border. Sew on and press away from the center.

For the pieced inner border take the set aside 1.25*5 strips and sew them into two long strips, sewing along the 5” sides. Sew pairs together, and then sew the pairs together, and so on until you have two long strips. Take care to sew them as accurately as possible; there isn’t any real wiggle room to clean up the edges. Press well, all in one direction.

Now you are going to cut the 5” wide long strips into 1.25” strips.
This is the pieced border that looks so small but you never handled any of those tiny pieces. As before measure and sew on your borders. You will cut off a couple of the end pieces on both the short and long sides. Sew on and press so that pieced border is flat. Press toward  the cream border.

Again measure and cut 1.25”*WOF for the next border. Attach as before, press away from the pieced border.

At this point your quilt is about 29”*26”.

Cut 3.50” x WOF for the outer border. Measure the quilt top and cut the long borders first. Sew on and press away from center. Measure and cut down the remaining side. Sew on the border and press away. You should have a quilt top measuring 36” x 33”

Now the basting, quilting and binding! And you’re done!

One 36″x33″ quilt which would be great for a new born, or as a wall hanging or table topper! When beautiful fabrics are displayed it really can be anything!

Check out my blog for directions on making the same pattern with a jelly roll and charm pack for a twin size quilt!

Cara Wilson

Whirly Wheels Baby Quilt

Hello again my Moda Lovin’ Friends! I’m Bradie from A Quilty Kind of Girl and QuiltCetera.Com. I have been really looking forward to sharing this quilt with you here on the Bake Shop. I made a quilt just like this for my youngest son last year when he was born. It is super simple and goes together REALLY fast! Perfect for a baby shower or a toddler birthday. I made it slightly bigger than a crib size so the wee man wouldn’t outgrow it too soon. If you would like a kit to make your own Whirly Wheels quilt( <—– click here!!), The Fat Quarter Shop now has them available for purchase!

Here is what you’ll need….
One Frolic Jelly Roll
1.5 yard of wild rose for sashing, inner border, and binding
3/4 yard of sky floral print for outer border
3 yards backing fabric

OPTIONAL – 5 yards jumbo rick rack, sky blue

Begin by separating your jelly strips into their different colorways.

Group your fabrics in sets of three. Choose fabrics with good contrast, so they won’t blend into each other.
This is an example of poor contrast. Although the background fabric is different, the print will make these fabrics blend into each other. Choose different scales of print to really show the contrast.

These are my fabrics matched up in 12 sets of three. Once I have cut fabric for the first 12 blocks, I mix up my strips and choose fabrics for 8 more blocks. I want a total of 20 blocks for this quilt.

From your first set of three fabrics, do a pretend layout of the three fabrics to decide how you want to place them.

Once you decide which fabric will be the center mini pinwheel, cut four squares from this strip measuring 2.5 X 2.5 inches.

The other two fabrics from each set of three will be cut 2.5 X 4.5 inches.

This is the second fabric to be cut 2.5 X 4.5 inches.

Total cuts for a single block:
4 squares fabric one – 2.5 X 2.5 inches
4 rectangles fabric two – 4.5 X 2.5 inches
4 rectangles fabric three – 4.5 X 2.5 inches

Time to put a block together!
Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of all four 2.5 inch squares.
(Now don’t get confused! I’ve gone and switched fabric on you here… you’ll learn why in a sec…)

Place the 2.5 inch squares, right sides facing, at one end of the rectangles. Make sure the outer edges are lined up. CHECK THE DIRECTION OF YOUR DIAGONAL LINE!! It will matter! (Any guesses about where my first fabrics went? In the OOPS pile!) Make sure the diagonal line matches the picture shown.

Sew directly on the marked line.(Keep the square on top so you can see where you need to sew!)

Once you have sewn the patches, trim the outer triangle, leaving a quarter inch. DO NOT cut to the inside of the stitching line!

Press all four of the seams towards the corner triangles.

Match each of the patches with the third fabric as shown. Sew together, with right sides facing.

Place the patches under your needle with the rectangle on the bottom. It is easier to manage the diagonal seam when it is on top. Press seams towards the rectangle.

Pair two of the patches and sew together as shown, to create a top and bottom row. Press the top center seam to the right. Press the bottom center seam to the left.

Pin the center seam and sew the two rows together. Press this final center seam open. Carry on making blocks until you have 20. Square your blocks to measure 8.5 inches by 8.5 inches.
Once you have all 20 blocks, play with the layout until you like the balance of colors. Oops! Are there only 19 blocks there? Wonder what happened to that last one… 😉

You will need 15 vertical sashing strips, each measuring 8.5 inches by 2.5 inches.

Sew your rows together with the sashing strips between the blocks. Press seams towards the sashing strips.

You will need to cut 6 vertical sashing strips measuring 38.5 inches by 2.5 inches. Set two aside for now.

Sew the five rows together with a horizontal sashing strip between. NOTE: This quilt is turned (just to confuse you of course!) So the “horizontal” strips are actually vertical in this pic.

Remember the sashing strips we set aside earlier? Grab them now! You will also need to cut 3 more sashing strips 2.5 inches by WOF. Sew all 3 together and cut TWO strips measuring 48.5 inches by 2.5 inches. Cut two pieces of jumbo rick rack 39.5 inches long. (No that is not a typo. Cut your rick rack a smidge longer. It will be easier this way.) Cut two more pieces of rick rack 49.5 inches long. Center the rick rack over your sashing strips and pin in place. Stitch to the sashing.
I chose to stitch on each side of the rick rack to really hold it down. You could also stitch straight up the center, which would allow the rick rack to be kind of floppy, especially after washing. This can be fun for baby to play with . 🙂

Once you have attached the rick rack to the sashing pieces, you can sew the 48.5 inch sashings to the long sides of the quilt. Cut 4 cornerstones 2.5 inches by 2.5 inches and attach to the ends of the 38.5 inch sashing strips. Attach the short sashings to the short sides of the quilt.
From the border fabric, cut 5 strips, 4.5 inches wide. Trim 2 strips to 4.5 inches by 38.5 inches. Attach to the top and bottom of quilt top. Sew the remaining 3 strips together. From this super long strip, cut TWO strips measuring 4.5 inches by 60 inches. Attach these two border strips to the left and right sides of the quilt top. Your quilt should finish at 50 inches by 60 inches.

Quilt as you like….
and add a baby to complete!

Charity Crosses

Charity Crosses is made with the beautiful new
Collection for a Cause by Howard Marcus
At Temecula Quilt Co we are all about reproductions and
 like to add a “piece” of the past to a quilt for today.

One Layer Cake – Collection for a Cause – Charity

1 Yard Bella Solid – Ivory
Half Yard – Binding
 2- 1/2 yards – Backing

1. Cut each “piece” of Layer Cake as follows:
– 4 – 4″ squares
– 4 – 2″x4″ rectangles
– 1 – 2″x2″ squares
From solid background fabric cut:
– 28 – 2″x 9″ strips
– 8  – 2″x WOF strips

2. Mix and Match cut pieces to create 35 different blocks.

3. Sew each section together and press seams as follows:
– Press center section towards middle
– Press two other sections outward

4. Sew three sections together
5. Press and repeat for all 35 blocks.
6. Another look at the finished blocks

7. Layout quilt top with 7 rows of 5 blocks.

8. Place a 2″ x 9″ strip of Bella Solid between each block.

9. Sew rows together horizontally, press toward light background strips.
10. Piece 2″x WOF strips of background fabric to create a piece as wide as your quilt.

11. Piece rows together being sure to line up vertical sashing strips.

12. Quilt as desired and bind.

One beautiful throw for a chilly spring evening.
Completed Quilt 46″ x 65″

Car Diddy Bag

Isn’t it amazing how quickly a car can get unorganized and messy? And add some kids into the mix… yikes!

This tutorial is for a multifunctional Car Diddy bag. Use it as a litter bag (the interior is laminated for easy cleaning) or as a toy/activity bag.

Enjoy 🙂

8 layer cake squares (Martinique)
3/8 yd Moda laminated cotton (Martinique)
Two (1″) D-rings

1. Cut 5 layer cake squares according to the following diagram. You will now have (20) 5″ squares!

2. Cut 3 layer cake squares according to the the following diagram. You will now have (27) 3″ squares!

3. Layer a 3″ square on top of a 5″ square and stitch in place. Repeat for a total of 18 sets.

You will have two leftover 5″ squares and nine leftover 3″ squares. Set these aside.

4. Slice each square on the diagonals.

5. When you peel back the corner, you’ll see a dog tail underneath.

Snip the dog tails off to keep the block from getting too bulky.

6. Mix and match triangles.

7. Sew triangles together to create 18 new squares.

8. Lay out nine squares like the picture below.

Sew the squares from each row together.

Then sew the rows together. Repeat this step to create another exterior panel.

9. Layer the two exterior panels from Step 8 right sides together. Stitch down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side. Please be sure to leave the top open! Turn right side out and press.

10. Take twelve of the 3″ leftover squares from Step 3 and stitch right side together to create a long strip. Take two more 3″ leftover squares and stitch right side together to create a short strip.

11. Fold each strip right side together and stitch along each long side. Turn right side out and press.

12. Edge stitch the long ends of each strip.

13. Slide two D-rights onto the middle of the short strip. Stitch a line to keep D-rings secure.

14. Measure 1.5″ in from each top corner of the exterior. Baste strips in place, sewing through only one layer of the exterior.

15. Now grab your laminated cotton. Isn’t it fabulous? You’re going to love sewing with it. Okay, back to business… Cut two 11″ x 11″ squares from the laminated fabric.

Layer right sides together and stitch both sides, leaving the top and bottom open. Leave the lining wrong side out and place the exterior inside the lining, with right sides together.

Pin the top edges together and stitch all the way around.

16. Pull the exterior through the opening in the bottom of the lining. Hand or machine stitch the opening in the bottom of the lining.

17. Tuck the lining into the exterior and top stitch all the way around.

That’s it! You’re done. Loop your sassy new litter or toy bag around the front headrest and secure with the D-rings.

A cute and functional way to minimize mess!

Custom Camera Slipcover

Hi it’s Megan from Brassy Apple. We love a project that sews up quickly with a big impact. It’s easy to add a pop of color and comfort to your camera strap with a custom slipcover!

1 Charm Pack – Hunky Dory by Chez Moi
Fusible Fleece

Step 1: Measure the length and width of your camera strap. Our camera strap measures 22 inches long and is 1.5″ wide. Choose 5 different squares of fabric from the charm pack. Sew the squares end to end with a 1/4″ seam allowance. This should leave about 1/2″ allowance to turn under on each end. Press seams flat.

Step 2: According to package directions, apply the fusible fleece to the the fabric leaving 1/4″ bare on each end. (see photos below)

Optional: To give your slipcover a quilted look, sew straight stitch lines done the entire piece. Starting about 1″ in from the edge, sew your first stitch line. Use your presser foot as a spacing guide and continue across the strap. Stop about 1″ from the opposite edge.

Step 3: Fold the fabric back on each end, press and/or pin in place, and stitch closed.

Step 4: Fold the strap lengthwise with right sides together and sew down the long side using a 1/2″ seam allowance. This will create a tube with the ends left open. Trim excess.

Step 5: Turn right side out and press flat with the seam down the middle of the underside.

Thread your camera strap through and wear your camera with style! Don’t forget to change out the strap with the seasons, holidays or as your heart desires!

If using 5 charm pack squares per strap, then one charm pack will yield 8 different, colorful camera strap slipcovers. These are perfect to give as gifts to friends, family and your favorite photographer!

Cushion Couture

You know what they say about great minds, right?  So I guess we shouldn’t have been surprised when we found out that we were both planning pillow tutorials for the Moda Bake Shop … using the same fabric line!  We decided to join forces and create one mega tutorial.  The Jaybirdquilts / Quilt Dad collaboration was born, and we were able to inspire one another to put forth the best collection of pillow patterns possible.  Think of it like chocolate & peanut butter… great alone… but even better together!!

So today we have tutorials for you for pillows.  Lots and lots (and lots) of pillows.  Why?  Because we LOVE pillows!  They’re relatively quick and easy to make, they let you integrate your favorite quilting fabrics into your home decor, they’re functional and, let’s face it, they’re FUN!  And what could be more fun that pillows made from the awesome debut line of fabric for the design team at Sweetwater, Authentic?

The best part is that these tutorials are for pillow covers — slipcovers, if you will.  They’re easy to change out with your decor, so imagine sets of these covers in your favorite seasonal or holiday fabrics… or even just a new set for any reason!

The other great thing is just how versatile these tutorials are.  You can make multiple versions from the same tutorial…. & with different fabric selections and placement each can look totally different!  We encourage you to mix & match.  Most of all, have fun.  We’d love to see your finished pillows.  Don’t forget to post them to the Moda Bake Shop Flickr pool!

here are all 6 pillows.
we numbered them to make your life a bit easier!

Pillows # 1 & 2
Layer Cake
Jelly Roll
Dessert Roll
Muslin for backings – Yardage will depend on the width of the muslin you use.  For each pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 27.5″ x 32″.  For this project I used a premium muslin in a creamy color.


Pillows # 3-6
Layer Cake
Assorted Authentic yardage for backings – Yardage will depend on what fabric you choose.
-For the largest pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 27.5″ x 32″.  I used one yard of cream authentic canvas for this. {The canvas is 58″ wide}
-For the 18″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 22″ x 18.5″.  I used 2/3 a yard of a black print from authentic for this.

-For the 16″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 20″ x 16.5″.  I used 1/2 a yard of a black print from authentic for this.
-For the 14″ pillow, you will need two cuts measuring 18″ x 14.5″.  I used 1/2 a yard of  a cream print from authentic for this.

Pillows 1 & 2

The two pillows I created are each a whopping 27″ square. I was shopping for pillow forms (for another project) when I came across these huge 27″ pillows. I immediately knew I wanted to make something large. My inspiration came from my children, who love to lounge around on the floor while watching TV, and the idea for these “playroom pillows” was born. I knew right away that Authentic by Sweetwater was the perfect fabric fit for this project.
I think these pillows would be great for anything from a nursery to a kids’ room to a teen hangout to a college dorm.  Oh yeah, and it should go without saying that they’d be great for grown-up decor, too!  Customize them with the fabrics that fit your needs best. I’d love to see what you make!

John – Quilt Dad

PILLOW #1 – Modern Medallion Pillow
Finished pillow size: 27″ square

The first design is my modern take on a more traditional medallion-style quilt. I love the idea of building a pattern from the center, border by border and bit by bit. I updated the design a bit to include some of my favorite “building blocks” and give it a fresh look. While each component is fairly simple, the overall effect of the finished pillow looks complex.
1. Center square
To begin, select two jelly roll strips: one of a featured print and one of a background print. The background print should also be one that is included in the dessert roll. Pull out the dessert roll strip that matches the background print jelly roll strip.
You should now have 2 jelly roll strips and a dessert roll strip.
From the feature print jelly roll strip, cut two 2″ squares and a 2″ x 5″ rectangle.
From the background print jelly roll strip, cut four 2″ squares.
Arrange as follows:
Sew each row together, and then sew the three rows together into a square block.
From the dessert roll strip, cut two 4.5″ squares. Then cut each square in half on the diagonal, resulting in four triangles.
Arrange the four triangles as follows, and then sew the triangles to the block. I sew the triangles to two opposing sides first and press before attaching the other two.
When all four triangles are attached, square the center block up to 6.5″.
2. First border
Select three jelly roll strips. From each, cut three rectangles 2.5″ x 3.5″ each. You should have 12 total rectangles — four of each print.
Arrange the rectangles as follows:
Sew each set of three rectangles together and press, but do not attach them to the center block yet.
Select two more jelly roll strips. From each, cut 18 1.5″ squares.
Arrange the 1.5″ squares into four nine-patch blocks. Sew the nine-patch blocks together.
You now have all of your components to assemble your first border: a top row containing two of the nine-patch blocks on its ends; a middle row with your center block in the middle position; and a bottom row that mirrors the top. Sew each row together, and then sew the rows together. Your pillow top should now measure 12.5″ square.
3. Second border
Your second border will be fairly simple. Select two jelly roll strips of the same print. From each, cut a 2.5″ x 12.5″ strip and a 2.5″ x 16.5″ strip, for a total of four pieces.
Attach the 12.5″ strips to the top and bottom of your pillow cover and press. Then attach the 16.5″ strips to the left and right sides of your pillow cover and press.
Your pillow cover should now measure 16.5″ square.
4. Third border – Flying Geese
The third border is comprised of 40 flying geese units. Each flying geese unit measures 2.5″ x 4.5″.
Cut 40 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles from a variety of prints from your jelly roll. These will be the prints that will be featured in your flying geese, so keep that in mind when selecting your prints. From the Authentic line, I selected the jelly roll strips featuring words, newsprint, and numbers.
Cut 80 2.5″ squares from a variety of prints from your jelly roll. I restricted mine to three different prints and, unlike the rectangles we just cut, these are meant to be the background against which your featured prints can pop. I selected subtle & small prints in the soft green hues.
Assemble your 40 flying geese units. I use a method similar to the one described here.
Arrange the flying geese around your pillow cover as seen in the photo of the pillow. Sew the 8 flying geese units that border the top of the pillow together, press, and attach to the top edge of the pillow. Repeat for the 8 flying geese units that border the bottom of the pillow.
Sew the 12 flying geese units that border the left side of the pillow together, press, and attach to the left edge of the pillow. Repeat for the 12 flying geese units that border the right side of the pillow.
5. Fourth (and final) border
Your final border will be another fairly simple one. From a variety of your leftover jelly roll strip scraps, cut a total of 26 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles. Sew six of them together on the short ends, creating a long 2.5″ x 24.5″ strip. Attach it to the top edge of the pillow. Repeat with another six rectangles and attach to the bottom edge of the pillow.
Repeat with another seven rectangles and attach to the left edge of the pillow. Do it one more time with the final seven rectangles and attach it to the right edge of the pillow.
Your pillow cover now measures 28.5″ square. Trim it down to 27.5″ square.
6. Quilt the pillow top
I prefer for my pillow covers to be quilted. To do this, I cut a piece of batting 27.5″ square and spray basted my pillow cover to the batting. I then free-motion quilted the entire pillow cover with an all-over meandering pattern in a coordinated thread color. You do not need a backing layer for this quilted piece — it’s just fine with the batting exposed on the back.
7. Create the envelope back
Create an envelope back for your pillow using two pieces of backing fabric measuring 27.5″ x 32″ each. Fold each piece in half so that it measures 27.5″ x 16″ and press the fold. On the backing piece that will show the exposed fold, machine attach a binding strip made from a jelly roll strip that is 27.5″ in length.
8. Assemble the pillow
Layer the pieces with the pillow top face up first, then the backing piece with the binding next (aligning the raw edges to the top, left, and right edges of the pillow), and finally the other backing piece (aligning the raw edges to the bottom, left, and right edges of the pillow).
Pin around all four sides and sew all layers together with a 1/4″ seam. I like to go around the pillow twice for added reinforcement.
Turn the pillow inside out through the envelope backing and insert your pillow form.

PILLOW #2 – Offset Stars Pillow
Finished pillow size: 27″ square

This next pillow combines two of my favorite blocks: the half-square triangle and the wonky (or liberated, or maverick) star. I love the seemingly random appearance of the two stars, slightly offset, against the backdrop of classic triangles. By chain-piecing and employing liberated block-making techniques, this pillow cover came together quickly.
1. Make your HST’s.
To start select three dessert roll strips that will serve as the background for your pillow. As the background, these prints should be light & subtle. From the Authentic line, I selected three of the beige prints.
From each dessert roll strip, cut 11 3 7/8″ squares. You should have a total of 33 3 7/8″ squares. (Note: you only need 32, so one of these squares will be leftover when you assemble your HST’s.)
Select 8 layer cake squares. Unlike the dessert roll strips, these will serve as the featured fabrics of the pillow. They should contrast nicely with the background squares that you just cut.
From each layer cake square, cut four 3 7/8″ squares. You will have a total of 32 3 7/8″ squares.
Here’s a look at what you should have cut by now:
Using 32 of your background squares and 32 of your focus fabric squares, make 64 HST units. I use this tutorial. Your HST’s should finish at 3.5″ each.
2. Make your star units
From your layer cake & dessert roll, select two groupings of three prints to create your star units. Each grouping should contain a center print and a coordinating print for the star points (from the layer cake), and a contrasting / neutral print for the background (from the dessert roll).
Here is what you will need for each (quantities are per star):
  • for the star center: one 3.5″ square
  • for the star points: four 3.5″ squares, cut in half on the diagonal
  • for the background: eight 3.5″ squares
Assemble your wonky star units. I use the technique outlined in the tutorial found here (but with the measurements I specified above).
3. Lay out the units and assemble
Lay out the entire pillow top in an eye-pleasing way. Arrange all of the HST’s with the feature fabric and the background fabric aligned in the same direction. If you think about the layout as a grid, the star units will take the place of nine HST units in your design. You can see where I placed my offset stars in my design, but I encourage you to lay it out in a way that feels right to you.
Sew the pillow top together row by row. The pillow top should finish at 27.5″ square.
See above for instructions on quilting and backing your pillow cover.

I think of pillows as if they are mini quilts… they really do offer us the ability to experiment and push ourself to try something new.  At the same time… they don’t have to be complicated… or take a lot of fabric!  Simplicity was the inspiration for my pillows…. I like to change decor often… and having bold graphic pillows… really helps to do that!  I have lots of green in my house… so authentic was the perfect fabric choice!  I hope you enjoy these simple… yet bold tutorials… and that they inspire you to make some pillows!

julie – jaybirdquilts

PILLOW #3 – giant disappearing nine patch
{ just a giant version of this block }
Finished pillow size: 27″ square
1. Pick 9 layer cake squares and sew them into a 9 patch
2. Fold your nine patch in half and then in half again and use a large ruler to trim it down to 28″ square
3. Then open it up & slice down the middle in both directions
4. Rearrange your blocks like this… and sew them back together!
5. Quilt the 27.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  I did an all over loopy pattern for the quilting on this pillow.  Insert 27″ pillow form & you are done!
PILLOW #4 – half square triangles
Finished pillow size: 18″ square

1. Pick 4 layer cake squares – two dark & two light
2. Draw a diagonal line down the middle of the back of the light two
3. Sew a scant 1/4″ seam on either side.
4. Then cut on the line & press towards the dark.
5. Trim the 1/2 square triangle units to 9.5″
6. Sew the 4 together as shown.
7. Quilt the 18.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 22″ x 18.5″  Fold in half to be 11″ x 18.5″}  I did straight line quilting on this pillow to echo the bold triangles.  Insert 18″ pillow form!
PILLOW #3 – half square triangles
Finished pillow size: 18″ square 
#5 – rail fence

1. Select 4 layer cake squares
2. Cut the layer cake into 4 pieces 2.5″ wide
3. Repeat for the other 3 layer cake pieces
4. Sew them into a rail fence block
5. Repeat to make 3 more.
6. Trim them to 8.5″ square
7. Lay them out as shown above and sew together
8. Quilt the 16.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 20″ x 16.5″  Fold in half to be 10″ x 16.5″}  I did straight line quilting 1/4″ in from each “rail” on this pillow.  Insert 16″ pillow form!
PILLOW #5 – square in a square
Finished pillow size: 16″ square
1. Pick 3 layer cake squares.  I picked a color for the outside that had 2 of the same print in the layer cake… if your layer cake doesn’t have any duplicates just pick 2 prints that look similar.
2. Cut both of the light layer cake squares in half on the diagonal
3. Take two of the triangles and pin them to the dark layer cake square as shown above
4. Sew 1/4″ seams and press to the dark
5. Trim excess fabric off
6. Repeat with the other two triangles and pin them as shown above
7. Sew 1/4″ seams and press to the dark

8. Trim to 14.5″ square
9. Quilt the 14.5″ panel & follow john’s instructions to make the back!  {The two pieces should each be cut at 18″ x 14.5″  Fold in half to be 9″ x 14.5″}  I quilted lots of straight lines on the outside triangles… and also quilted squares inside of squares on the black portion.  Insert 14″ pillow form!

6 amazing pillows!!
We hope you enjoy our ideas… and that we have inspired you to make some pillows!
john @ quilt dad