Simply Charming Tablecloth

Simply Charming Tablecloth


Hello All! My name is Angela and I blog over at Cuttopieces.blogspot.com.   I’m back with another tutorial for you, this time using the lovely Domestic Bliss line by Liz Scott.  I fell in love with these fabrics as soon as I saw them and wanted to make something quick and “easy” with all of the colors.

Sometimes you love every single fabric in a line and just want to USE them.  Right now!  Well this tablecloth pattern will let you do that and gives you a very functional item along with the joy of diving into a collection.  It uses just 2 charm packs.  So there is enough to have some fun but not so much that it gets overwhelming.

This tablecloth is perfect for special occasions like birthdays or holidays (with the right fabrics!) but is also simple enough for every day use.  There are special details like a mitered edge border and a single piece backing.

It’s “Simply Charming”.


(2) Charm Packs of Domestic Bliss by Liz Scott
  *update – not on PDF instructions* – you need 88 charms total…some lines will have enough in two charm packs.  If you don’t have enough, I would take some of the extra Bella solid and cut it into charm squares and use them as corner squares on the table cloth.
1 1/4 yard of Bella Solid Marine
2 yards of 108″ Grey Dottie Backing

Cut the Bella solid into a 40 1/2″ square piece of fabric.

Arrange your charms around the Solid center in rows.
You will need
     (2) 9 piece strips
     (4) 11 piece strips
     (2) 13 piece strips

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Sew the charms into rows and attach the rows to the solid center as shown below.

First attach each 9 piece strip to opposite sides of the solid center.
Next attach an 11 piece strip to the two remaining opposite sides of the solid center to create a square piece again.

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Then attach an 11 piece strip to opposite sides of the new square piece.

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Finally, attach a 13 piece strip to the remaining two opposite sides to once again square up the piece.

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Your piece should now be 58″ square.

Cut the Dottie Backing into a 67″ square piece.
We will be creating a deep mitered hem around the perimeter of the tablecloth.

On all four sides of the backing fabric, press the ends wrong sides together with a 1/2″ fold.

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Follow this by pressing all four sides in with a 2″ fold.

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At each corner, unfold the fabric back to reveal the wrong side of the fabric.  Fold each corner in at a 45 degree diagonal, wrong sides together.  You should be able to match up your pressed creases.

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   Trim the folded triangle to a 1/2″.

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Refold the fabric back along the original pressed edges to reveal a perfect mitered corner.

simply charming tablecloth - mitered edge

Lay the backing fabric out with the wrong side up.  Place the tablecloth pieced top on top of the backing, centering it.  Keep each fabric as smooth and flat as possible.

simply charming tablecloth

Fold the hem along the edge of the pieced top and pin in place around the entire tablecloth.  Top stitch around the entire edge of the hem, including the mitered edges.

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And ta-da!  You are done!  Easy peasy!

One Simply Charming Tablecloth!

Simply Charming Tablecloth2
So pull out those charm packs…feel free to mix and match!  And whip up a fabulous tablecloth for that special occasion.  You could make some coordinating napkins too. 😉  Oh and how cute would a novelty tablecloth be for a child’s birthday party?!  Endless possibilities… 
If you do use the tutorial to make a tablecloth I would love to see it!  So please share it in my flickr group, Cut To Pieces and of course the Moda BakeShop Group as well.  Enjoy!
Angela Pingel

Sweet Baby Diamonds Quilt


For those who don’t know me — I’m Tracey from traceyjay quilts (and traceyjay quilts pattern shop)!  I have one handsome husband, two sweet and adorable children, and I love to quilt when I have the time (which is rare these days!)

I made these two quilts for two sweet babies in my life (no, not my own).  This little tutorial has been in the works a long time!  I actually finished a second one for my niece (in Sunkissed) before the original was done.  I hope you can forgive the delay; I would personally like to think I have a good excuse.  😉  So — even though these particular lines are now hard to find, I have no doubt this design would sew up beautifully in Reunion, the new Lucy’s Crab Shack or even Mama Said Sew… as it already was adorable in two other Sweetwater lines.

I need to note for those who want to make one of their own — there was a lot of “winging it” while making this quilt, and the measurements are not exact and precise in all ways.  This tutorial is then my attempt to give you a bit of insight in to my (less than perfect, but hey they work) methods.  I would not recommend this design for a first project, because you are working with so many bias edges, as well as oddly shaped setting triangles.  If you’re willing to exercise a little patience, I’m confident though that you’ll love the results.


1 Jelly Roll (Pure by Sweetwater featured)
WIP to be finished

1 yd. contrast for sashing (will have some leftover for binding)
1 yd. for setting diamonds and triangles
1/2 yd. or charm pack for border
2 yards backing (might need more if sending quilt to a long-arm)
leftover jelly roll strips and sashing for binding

– Sort your jelly roll strips by dark, medium, and light value

– Group in to sets of five, following the pattern of dark/light/dark/light/dark and light/dark/light/dark/light.  If your sashing is dark in value, you will need three sets with light on the outside, and two sets with darks on the outside.  Switch if your sashing is light (like in the Sunkissed example), and make more groups with dark on the outside (twenty-five strips total, with thirteen light and twelve medium or dark — reverse if using light sashing).  The picture below shows a set of strips that are dark/light/dark/light/dark.

– Sew in to sets with a 2″ off-set for each strip (see picture).  There is no need to trim selvage.  Press very well (either open or to one side; I alternated directions for the dark vs. light strip set)

– Rotate strip set to opposite side (so that the one on top is now on bottom — the green in this picture) and trim at a 45 degree angle.  I use both the line on my quilting ruler as well as the line on my cutting mat, to ensure accuracy and consistency.
– Flip strip set back over, and continuing to follow the 45 degree line, cut 2 1/2″ wide pieced strips.  You can get as many as ten pieced strips per strip set, but you only need to get eight.  Be very careful with your cutting, continuously checking for the accuracy of your angle and 2 1/2″ width and 45 degree angle.

– You will be piecing the strips together like this, alternating a strip with dark on the outside, next to one with lights on the outside.  Here are some tips for helping to ensure good matching points.
– I found that pressing the side down 1/4″ on one of the strip sets was sometimes helpful to see directly where the two sections lined up.
– This picture shows the piece with the 1/4″ pressed over lined up and pinned in place next to the other piece.  You will then stitch directly on the wrong side of the pressed crease.  
This is an up close shot of how it looks at the intersections of your pieces. 


Press seams open when joining sections. 

There is a quarter inch off-set when each section is joined to the next.

– Make eight diamond blocks (each with five strip pieced sections — see pic directly below for what a finished block looks like)

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Setting triangles:

Start by making a template.  I use freezer paper, but regular paper (or something else you choose) would work too.  Trace the diamond on to the freezer paper, and cut it out.



Using the template, you need to make setting triangles for your sides, corners, and top/bottom.  Depending on your fabric choice (if it is directional or not), you will need to pay attention to how you orient your template.  I like freezer paper because I can just iron it down, and then use the rotary cutter to cut my setting triangle.

This is an example of a corner setting triangle (the top right to be specific)  You want the fabric to extend past the mid point of the diamond shape.  It helps to draw midlines on your template (vertical and horizontal through the centers) so that you can make sure your setting triangle is larger than those midlines.

This shows how the template is placed for the bottom middle setting triangle.  When you cut — extend the lines straight at the bottom (rather than cutting along the template edge — the black line in the picture shows the cutting line).
Here is how the side setting triangles will be.  Again — extend the cutting line past the midpoint, and cut straight past the edge of the template like you did with the other pieces.
Lay your blocks out as shown.  If using dark sashing, place the blocks with light at the points for the top three, then dark for middle two, and light again for the bottom row.  You can see how the setting triangles will be arranged with the blocks.  (and yes, having tractors to watch really does help). 😉

This picture also shows how your rows will be sewn together (diagonally).


 Cut and piece 1 1/2″ strips long enough for your length of sashings.  You will need some “short” sashing strips (that go along the edge of the blocks/setting triangles in one direction, and some “long” (that go along the edge of the rows to join the rows together).  Use your template, or measure the edge of your block, and make sure there is enough length to fully extend past the edge, so it can be trimmed later (this is important when dealing with bias edges.

Sew a length of sashing along the “short” edge of your setting triangles or block.  The end of the sashing will extend past the end of the triangle or block.  Use your ruler to trim the edge.

Here is the “short” piece of sashing trimmed.

When joining two blocks together along the “short” edges, use your quilting ruler and measure 2 1/4″ from the edge (as shown in picture), and then trim the overhang of the sashing.

Piece your blocks and triangles together in diagonal rows, and then join diagonal rows to one another, with a long strip of sashing in between.

It can be tricky to join the rows of diamonds lined up when adding the sashing — I pressed a 1/4″ seam along one edge (similar to when joining the strip-pieced sections for the blocks), and then used a pencil to mark where the sashing needed to line up in order to make a straight line of the “short” edges.  (This is another one of those spots I mentioned earlier where I did some “winging it,” and you might be able to tell from the picture that particular seam was ripped at least once so I could get it right.)

Square up your top (I did not have precise measurements here — I just did my best to even out all my edges!), add a 5″ strip or pieced charm squares on each side, and you’ve got a quilt top!

Make your backing; Layer; Baste; Quilt; Bind — Done!

For the variation of this quilt I did for my niece Libby, in Sunkissed, I framed each block with a coordinating solid, then sashed in white, used assorted fabrics for the setting triangles, and used a charm pack for the side borders.  This makes for a bigger quilt overall — just make sure you use the block WITH the framing to make your template for the setting triangles.  The other steps for making this quilt are the same as described in this tutorial here.

Little diamonds for Libby

A very “sweet” quilt measuring about 42″ x 56″

If you decide to make this, I’d love you to stop by my blog and show me!  And please add pictures to my little flickr group!
Tracey Jacobsen

{traceyjayquilts.blogspot.com}


Charm Saturday

This quilt, entitled Charm Saturday, is the perfect weekend project.

This style of pattern is called a tessellation, which is a repeat of the same shape in an interlocking design. Hexagons, clam shells, and popular “plus” sign quilts are all examples of tessellation quilts. When you play with the value of the fabrics you use, it really brings out the pattern, as you can see in the pattern above. Tessellation patterns look complicated but are often simpler than they appear.

Grab your favorite charm packs (and layer cakes) and try your hand at this one. You can find the pattern here.

Happy quilting!

Battle March Quilt


Hello!  My name is Kelli.  I make guest appearances every now and then on my mom’s blog at Jo’s Country Junction.  We enjoy getting together on the weekends to work on quilting projects, make yummy food, and let the dogs run around to keep us entertained.  Another of our favorite things to do is to look through old quilt magazines to find quilt blocks and layouts that are new to us.  While looking through a magazine, I stumbled upon the English Wedding Ring block.  After a little bit of color play, I came up with this quilt entitled Battle March. Stop over to the blog and sign up to win a $40 gift certificate from Cabbage Rose Quilting and Fabrics to get you started on making your own quilt.


One fat quarter bundle (1862 Battle Hymn by Barbara Brackman)
Sashing/Binding/Side Setting Triangles/Block Parts–4.75 yards Bella Solids U Brown 9900 71 Moda #1
Corner stones/Block Parts –2.5 yards Bella Solids Parchment 9900 39 Moda #1
Batting
Backing–7 yards New Bern Red 8224 15 Moda #1 



I also used an easy angle to cut the triangles in this quilt.



 CUTTING THE FABRIC:
1. From each fat quarter, cut 6- 2”x 21” strips. These strips will be placed in two piles. Place two single strips, as individuals, to the first pile. Make two sets of 2 strips each and place in the second pile.
 

 
2.  From the brown yardage:
 
-Cut 34 2” strips to be used in the sashing.  

-Subcut into 5  2” x 8” rectangles to be used as sashing from each strip.  You will need to cut a total of 168 sashing strips.

-For side setting triangles, cut two 14” strips.
-Subcut into 6  14” squares.  Cut twice on the diagonal to yield 22 side setting triangles

-For corner triangles, use the remaining 14” strip to cut two 7.25” squares.  Cut once on the diagonal for a total of 4 corner triangles.
-For the border, cut nine 3” x WOF strips.
-For binding, cut ten 2.5” strips x WOF.

3.  To cut the center of the blocks and the cornerstones to be used in the sashing of the quilt, you will need to cut a total of 45 2” strips from your neutral fabric.  

-Sub-cut 9 strips into 2” squares, for a total of 169 squares.  Seventy two of these squares will be used as the center in each block.  The remaining 97 squares will be used as cornerstones in the sashing.
-Cut the remaining 36 strips in half to yield a total of 72  2” x 20” strips.



MAKING THE BLOCKS:
1.  To make 1 block, you will need 1 block strip set (2 matching strips from Pile 2 and one complimentary strip from pile 1), 1 neutral 2” x 20” strip, and one 2” cornerstone.


2.  From the complimentary strip, cut four 2” x 3.5” rectangles and set aside.

3.  Placing right sides together, layer the rest of the complimentary strip with one of the strips from the matching set.  Using your Easy Angle ruler, cut a total of four 2” finished triangle sets.

4.  Layer the second matching strip with the neutral strip, right sides together.  Using your Easy Angle Ruler cut a total of 12 right triangles.

5.  Sew all triangles together along the diagonal.

6.  Press all triangles to the matching strip set color.

7.  Arrange block as shown.

 8.  Assemble the block as shown.  

9.  Repeat to create 72 blocks.


ASSEMBLING THE QUILT TOP:
1.  Arrange the blocks, on point, in a 6 x 7 layout.

2.  Sew sashing and cornerstones between blocks. Make sure to end each sashing strip with a cornerstone to create the outside half square triangles.

3.  To trim the quilt, line up your ruler one quarter of an inch from the outside cornerstone diagonal.  As this is a large quilt, I simply trimmed mine from cornerstone to cornerstone until I had trimmed the entire quilt.

4.  Putting right sides together, sew all 3” border strips together.  After pressing your quilt top, lay out and measure the quilt the long way through the middle of the quilt.  Cut two border strips to this measurement.  Sew onto the long sides for the quilt and iron towards the border.  Repeat to add the border on the shorter side.


FINISHING:
1.  Quilt as desired.

2.  Bind using the ten 2.5” strips.


One approximately 77″ by 89″ quilt.

Kelli Kramer
{www.joscountryjunction.com}

Make It Modern

Are you looking for a new summer project? This stunning Morris & Company pattern would be perfect for summer since it looks like rays of sunshine. And you can make it modern using our range of Bella Solids.
Ready to start sewing? You can find the pattern here.
Happy quilting!

Pink with a Splash of Orange Quilt



Hi, I am Quiltjane and I am happy to be back baking for the Bake Shop. Today I am presenting a very simple baby quilt using a combination of Bella solids, one Cape Ann charm pack and yardage of Cape Ann brushed cottons to create a subtle texture and cosy feel to the quilt.

The dictionary definition of ‘Brushed cottons’ is: “Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish” The brushed cotton fabrics were beautiful to cut and sew, making the perfect combination for a cuddly quilt fit for a baby.

1 charm pack Cape Ann by Oliver + S

2 1/2 yards brushed cotton print 11186 12 B
1 1/2 yard pink striped brushed cotton print 11188 12 B
1/2 yard orange solid – Bella 9900- 162 Amelias Apricot
1 1/2 yard pink solid  – Bella 9900-145 Sisters Pink
54″ x 54″ batting

Cutting:
From the Charm Pack cut:
32 – 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles (2 per charm square ) – Piece E
32 – 1 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles ( 3 per charm square ) – Piece H
16 – 2″ x 5″ rectangles ( 2 per charm square ) – Piece K
From the pink solid cut:
11 – 1 1/2″ strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 1/2″ x 12″ pieces – Piece F
8 – 2″ strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 2″ x 18″ pieces – Piece B
5 strips –  2 1/4″x WOF for binding
From the pink stripe fabric cut:
13 strips WOF. Cut these into 64 – 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces – Piece D
6 strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ pieces – Piece H
From the brushed cotton print cut:
7 strips WOF. Cut these into 32 – 2″ x 7 1/2″ pieces – Piece I
8 strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 2″ x 18″ pieces – Piece C
The remaining 1 1/2 yards will be used for the backing with left over pieces from the other fabrics.
From the orange solid cut:
8 – 1 1/4″ strips WOF. Cut these into 16 – 1 1/4″ x 18″ pieces – Piece A
2 – 2″ strip WOF. Cut into 16 – 2″ x 5″ pieces – Piece J
Make 8 of each

Place Pieces G and H at right angles with right side together. Draw a 45 degree line.

Assembly:

N.B: All seams are pressed open.
For Block A and Block B

  • Sew a 1 1/2″x 5″ charm (Piece H) to 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ pink stripe fabric (Piece G) using a 45 degree angle. Make 32.
Sew on line and trim back to 1/4″ 
Fold back and press open seam

  • Sew a 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ pink stripe fabric (piece D) to each end of 2 1/2″ x 5″ charm piece using a 45 degree angle. Make 32.
Fold back and press open seam. Repeat for other end of piece E.
Place Pieces D and E at right angles with right side together. Draw a 45 degree line.
Sew on line and trim back to 1/4″

  • Join pieces A, B and C. Fold in half and press to find centre of each piece. Make 16.
  • Fold remaining strips and use centre line as reference point to join all strips.

  • Trim block to 12 1/2″ square. Place the 45 degree line down the centre of the orange strip.

  • Layout the blocks.

  • Sew together to make rows.
  • Sew rows together.

  • Make your backing using the remaining brushed cotton fabric and left over fabrics.

  • Layer quilt top, batting and backing. Quilt as desired and bind.

Finished Quilt size: 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″
Finished block size: 12″ x 12″
Alternative Quilt Layouts

I hope you enjoyed this project. If you make this quilt or any of my other MBS projects, I would love to see them posted on my Flickr group at Want it Need it Quilt.

Happy quilting!

Jane Shallala Davidson
{http://www.quiltjane.blogspot.com}