Mod Circles Appliqued Baby Quilt

Hi there, I’m Lindsey from LRstitched. I’m very excited to share my first recipe at the Moda Bake Shop!

Today, I’m going to show you how to make a fun and easy appliqued baby quilt.

  • 1 Charm Pack, “Sophie” by Chez Moi
  • 1 yard background fabric (Moda Bella Solid “Home Town Sky”)
  • 1 yard backing fabric (Sophie “Blue Fiesta Collage”)
  • 1/2 yard for the binding (Sophie “Green Peas Houndstooth”)
  • batting (minimum 34×44)
  • 8″ circle and petal templates (included in the Printer Friendly Version)
  • water soluble pen
  • measuring tape/ruler
  • scissors
  • fabric glue (My favorite is Liquid Stitch).
  • template plastic (optional, if you’d like to transfer your paper templates for ease of use)

One charm pack will give you enough petals to make 2 of these baby quilts.

We will be using 72 petals for one quilt (18 charms). Keep that in mind, if you would prefer to only make one quilt, select 18 charms and save the rest for another project.

If you would like to make 2 quilts, you will use 36 of the 42 charms. You’ll also need to double the fabric requirements for background, backing and binding, as well as batting.

Once you’ve decided whether to make 1 or 2 quilts, grab your charm pack and let’s get started!


With the printed petal template, trace four petals per charm as shown below.

I like to cut my petals by hand since I’m trying to use every last scrap of fabric. However, if the thought of hand cutting makes you cringe, you can certainly use a rotary cutter!

If you choose to use a rotary cutter, be careful using this layout because space is tight. You may want to bump down to 3 petals per charm.

Now we need to prepare the background. Take your 1 yard background fabric (approx. 36″ by 44″) and cut down to 32″ by 42″. Press well.

Next we are going to trace our guide circles onto the background piece.

You will need the 8″ circle template and a fabric pen. Lay out your background fabric on a hard surface and beginning in the top left corner, lay down your template. While measuring, adjust the circle template until it rests 2″ from the top and 2″ from the left and trace.

Measure 2″ to the right of the first traced circle and repeat. Continue until you have traced all 12 circles as seen below.

Once the circles are traced, it’s time to layout the petals. You will need 6 petals per circle.

If you imagine a line down the center of each circle, you will be placing 3 petals to the left of the line and 3 to the right.

Place your first petal on the top left side of the circle you’ve traced. The drawn circle will be your guide for placement as you work your way around.

Once all 12 circles are filled, adjust the petals if necessary until you’re happy with the placement.

Now we need to secure the petals to the fabric to prepare for applique.

Begin by removing one petal from its place; apply a thin coat of glue and press firmly back to its spot on the background fabric.

Repeat for each petal until all are secured.

Once everything is glued down, you can start appliqueing each petal to the background fabric. I’m using a blanket stitch in the picture below.

If your machine doesn’t offer that option, you can zigzag or straight stitch close to the petal edge.

We’re almost done!

After appliqueing all the petals, press your top well. Take the backing fabric and layer it along with your batting and top, then quilt as desired.

Trim off the excess backing and batting and square up your quilt. Using your preferred method, make and apply the binding.

All finished!

A beautiful baby quilt, approximately 30″ x 40″.

Thanks so much, I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

Lindsey Rhodes


If you do make a Mod Circle quilt, I’d love to see it! Feel free to share it in the LRstitched Flickr pool.

Sophie’s Bouquet

Fresh from the oven at Jo’s Country Junction is the latest Moda Bake Shop recipe….Sophie’s Bouquet. Our old farm dog, Pepper, is showing off the quilt that features fabric from the line Sophie by Chez Moi. I am in love with the fabric. I am especially in love with the turquoise blue floral fabric that is used as the setting squares. The floral design is amazing. The quilt uses one jelly roll along with extra yardage.

To get you started, Kimberly over at the Fat Quarter Shop is sponsoring a giveaway over on my blog to get you started on the project. After you’re done here, hop on over and check it out.

1 Jelly Roll-Sophie for Blocks and Scrappy Binding

4 1/4 yards Nosegay Blue Fiesta (32501-11) for Setting Squares, Setting Triangle and Corner Triangles

2 yards Sophie Leafy Swirl Pink Sorbet 32504 13- for constant pink in the blocks and the inner border

1 3/4 yards Sophie Petal Pink Sorbet 32506 22-for background fabric in the blocks

6 yards Sophie Paisley Floral Cream 32502 14

You will also need a half square triangle ruler such as an Easy Angle.

If you would want to fussy cut the setting squares, you will need extra yardage.

From the setting fabric:
Cut 12~ 6 1/2″ strips. Sub cut into 72~ 6 1/2″ squares.

Cut 3~ 9 3/4″ strips. Sub cut into 9~ 9 3/4″ squares. Cut these squares twice on the diagonal to get your setting triangles. You will use 34.

Cut 2~ 5 1/8″ squares. Cut once on the diagonal to create 4 corner triangles.

From the pink constant fabric in the blocks:
Cut 17~ 2 1/2″ strips. Sub cut into 270 2 1/2″ squares.

For the background fabric in the blocks:
When I made my version, I used the lights from the jelly roll pieces for some of the back ground in the blocks. I cut the remainder from the light yardage. You can do it the way I did or you can make all of the background from the same fabric. You will need a total of 23~ 2 1/2″ strips for the background.

I pulled out the strip of fabric that matches the setting fabric and set it aside.

Take one of the jelly roll strips. Layer it right sides together with one of the light 2 1/2″ strips as shown. Place it on the cutting mat. Take the half square triangle ruler and position it over the top. Cut a straight edge on the side as shown.

Following the manufacturers instructions that came with the ruler, cut triangles as shown. Flip the ruler as you make each cut. Each block needs six sets of triangles. Continue cutting across the strip making triangles. You will get four sets of six triangles per strip.

Chain piece the triangles, keeping the like triangles together.

Cut the triangles apart. Clip the dog ears and press towards the dark fabric. Continue keeping like squares together.

Layout the half square triangles along with three pink squares as shown.

Sew the blocks into rows.

Sew the rows into blocks. Continue until you have 90 blocks. Press blocks.

Now is the fun part…the layout. This quilt is set on the diagonal. It’s easy to get blocks twisted or turned. I kept watching and checking to make sure those pink squares were lined up in rows.

Continue laying the blocks out in a 9 x 10 setting. Sew the blocks into rows then sew the rows into a quilt top. Notice the pink squares are all in a line.

Take the backing fabric and cut it in half. From the remaining jelly roll strips cut 6~ 21″ pieces. Piece them together connecting them on the diagonal as you would binding strips. Sew the strip between the two backing pieces. This isn’t completely necessary. I just like to do it so that I don’t have to try to match the prints in the backing fabric.

Layer the backing, batting and quilt top together. Quilt as desired.

Cut eight 2 1/2″ strips of the blue floral fabric. Use them to bind the quilt.

One 74″ x 83″ quilt.

Come on over to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction, and see all the pictures I took while making the quilt. There were a few mishaps that went into this quilt. You will also want to check out the giveaway that Kimberly from The Fat Quarter Shop is sponsoring there.

Jo Kramer
{Jo’s Country Junction}

Pretty Little Framed Purses

Hi there! I am Kristie from OCD: obsessive crafting disorder. It is great to be here today to share my recipe for some cute little framed coin purses and clutches, made from none other than charm packs and layer cakes!

Charm pack squares are the perfect size to whip up some sweet little coin purses like these:

And you can use a layer cake for the larger clutch sized version to take out on the town.

So, let’s get started!

Per coin purse:

-4 charms squares ( I used these cute little prints from Little Apples by Aneela Hoey), 2 matching for the lining, and 2 matching for the exterior. Alternatively, for the exterior of the coin purse you can use several charms to cut apart and piece back together to create your own fun design, just be sure that they finish up 5 inches by 5 inches square, OR you can fussy cut 5 by 5 inch squares from a slice of layer cake!

– two 5×5 inch pieces of lightweight fusible interfacing

– OPTIONAL (but suggested): two 5×5 inch pieces of medium weight interfacing (sew in or fusible) OR quilt batting scraps will do, too!

– 3 inch (8 cm) coin purse frame or your choosing (the ones pictured was purchased here)

Per clutch bag:

– 2 slices of layer cake (shown here in the lovely Ruby by Bonnie and Camille), one for the exterior and one for the lining. Again, feel free to use extra slices to make a patchwork that finishes 10 by 10 inches. You may want to use some other bits as embellishments, like the shabby chic flower added to my clutch (see “garnishes” below).

– one 10 x 10 inch piece of lightweight fusible interfacing

– one 10 x 10 inch piece of medium or heavy weight interfacing (sew in or fusible) OR quilt batting

– one 8 inch OR one 6 inch purse frame of your choosing (mine was purchased here)

*For both projects, you will also require some adhesive (mine was purchased here) as well as a long thin object (such as a butter knife) to be used to help insert the purse in the frame. It will get full of glue, so don’t use anything too precious ūüėČ

In addition- the usual suspects: thread, scissors, machine, rotary cutting tools, etc.

Embellishments are a fun addition to your clutch or coin purse. Be creative! You could add hand stitching, buttons, lace, ribbon, ric rac, and so on. Endless possibilities!

1. Prep work
Iron the lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the 2 outer charm squares (for the coin purses) or the outer layer cake slice (for the clutch). If your medium weight interfacing is also fusible, iron it to the other side of the lightweight interfacing as well.

2. Make a template
You will need to make a customized template to correspond with your purse frame. Easy!

For the coin purse (3 inch frame):
Grab one charm and fold in half vertically. Center your frame at the top of the folded edge, 1/4 inch down from top edge. Draw a line, following the contour of your frame, but 1/4 inch out to be your seam allowance. where the frame ends, extend in a line to the bottom corner. Cut.

In addition, you may wish to round your bottom corners while it is still folded in half so that they are a mirror image.

Use this piece as your template! Now fold the remaining outer, lining, and interfacing pieces in half and cut to match.

For the clutch purse (8 inch frame):
Fold layer cake fabric for outer in half top horizontally, then again vertically to make a 5 inch square.

For 6″ rectangle frame– mark a spot 1.75 inches from outer corners and cut towards bottom folded corner.

For 8″ rectangle frame– mark a spot 3/4 inches from outer corners and cut towards bottom folder corner.

Round corners, etc as described for coin purse and use this piece as your template. However, do NOT round bottom corners of clutch. Fold and cut remaining lining and interfacing pieces to match.

Note- if you want to add interior pocket or labels to your bags, do so at this time.

3. Time to sew the bags!

For both sized purses:
a) Unfold vertical folds (i.e. completely unfold for charms/coin purses, but keep horizontal fold in place for clutch bag). Hold your frame over the top portion of the outer and lining fabrics, and mark a line on the wrong side that corresponds with the bottom edge of the frame hinge.

For coin purse:
Place exterior pieces, right sides together, with interfacing on the outside. Sew, stopping at marked line. For coin purses, you will sew from marking to bottom corner, then across bottom and up again to second marking. The top remains unsewn.

For clutch:
The bottom edge is folded fabric, so you will only need to sew 2 short lines from the bottom corners up to the markings.

Repeat for lining pieces.

For clutch only:
Square off corners by aligning side seam with bottom fold as shown, and making a perpendicular line 3/4 inch from the corner.

Sew along the line, and trim off excess, leaving a 1/4 inch seam.
When you turn it right side out, your corners will be boxed, like this:
Repeat for second corner, and again for both corners of the lining piece.

b) For both bag styles: Invert exterior bag right side out, and slide inside of the lining bag, which remains inside out such that right sides of exterior and lining are facing each other.

Sew around top edges of the bag to join lining and outer, leaving a small opening at one of the top edges.

Use this opening to invert the bag right side out. You may want to use a blunt object, such as a chopstick, to press out the corners and edges. Press edges.

c) Tuck raw edges of opening inward and sew with a small 1/8 inch seam to close.

4. Time to attach the frame!
Apply a thin bead of glue to the inside of one half of the frame. You really don’t need a lot and too much will gush out and stain your fabrics, so be conservative!

Lay the glued side flat on a surface protected with paper. Center one side of the bag below it, then gently push fabric upwards into the channel of the frame. Use edge of butter knife (I am using a Whiltsire- I like to live dangerously!) to tuck fabric into the frame.

Flip the bag over to ensure that both sides are inserted neatly and evenly, and quickly wipe off excess glue on the fabric or metal frame. Work quickly and continue until all edges are concealed in the frame channel.

Take a mini break to let the glue adhere. Check your email. Read my blog ūüôā Have a snack. Maybe some chocolate?

Back at it! Repeat for the other side of the frame.

Let the glue dry for a few hours or overnight.
Your finished bag will look like this:

Want to embellish it?
I added a flower- I cut one 3″ circle, a 2″ circle and a 1.5″ circle and stacked them I put mine through the washer and drier to shabby them up a bit ūüôā Then, I found a pretty little sparkly button and sewed it onto the front of the bag. Easy as that!

Voila! One pretty frame purse just for you!

Keep making your way through that charm pack or layer cake and you will have a stack of them ready in no time! The clutch is a perfect gift for the girlfriends, and the coin purses are much loved by the little ones…especially if you add a few coins in there for them!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! I would love to see what you made, so please be sure to add them to my Flickr group!

Any questions? Shoot me an email at:

obsessivecraftingdisorder {at} yahoo {dot} ca

Kristie Maslow

Indian Summer Wall Hanging

Hi! This is Kim¬†and I’m¬†back with a¬†quick and easy tutorial to share with you. This wall hanging comes together quickly using triangles and there is no marking needed.¬†All fabrics used are from Kansas Troubles Perennials collection.

6 fat quarters – 3 light, 1 medium, 2 dark coordinating prints
1st Border – 1/3 yard
2nd Border – 5/8 yard
Binding – 1/4 yard
Backing – 1 yard

The fat quarters are labeled as follows: light 1, light 2, light 3, med, dark 1, dark 2.

Determine your color order and cut as follows:

Light 1: 4 – 3 7/8″ squares
Light 2: 8 – 3 7/8″ squares
Light 3: 8 – 3 7/8″ squares
Medium: 4 – 3 7/8″ squares
Dark 1: 8 – 3/ 7/8″ squares
Dark 2: 4 – 3 7/8″ squares
1st Border: 4 – 2 1/2″ strips
2nd Border: 4 – 4 1/2″ strips
Binding: 3 – 2 1/4″ strips

Stack the squares into their own piles according to the fabric prints.

Cut all 3 7/8″ squares once on the diagonal.

Here I’ve separated them by print.

Sew all the half square triangles following photos below.
Sew 16 Unit A half square triangles.
Unit A

Sew 4 Unit B half square triangles.

Unit B
Sew 8 Unit C half square triangles.
Unit C
Sew 4 Unit D half square triangles.

Unit D
Sew 4 Unit E half square triangles.

Unit E
Take the Unit A half square triangles and place them as follows to create a pinwheel block.

Sew the half square triangles together to complete the pinwheel block. These will be the corner pinwheels for your quilt top. Sew a total of 4 blocks.

Repeat the steps above with the Unit B half square triangles to form the pinwheel block for the center of the quilt top.

Take the remaining Unit C, D and E half square triangles and place them according to the image below.

Sew the half square triangles together. These blocks will be for the outside center of the quilt top.

Sew a total of 4 blocks.

It’s time to assemble the quilt top. Place all your blocks as follows.
Sew the rows together.

Take the 1st border strips and sew them to the sides, trim excess.  Sew the remaining strips to the top and bottom of the quilt top, trim excess. Press seams towards the border.

Repeat the same steps above for the 2nd border.

Layer the quilt top, batting and backing together. Quilt as desired. Sew the binding strips together and bind using your preferred binding method.

This will make one 30″ square wall hanging or table topper. Come visit me over at my blog for more fun ideas using your leftover fabrics.

Kim Sherrod

Picket Fences Crib Quilt


Hello again! I’m Angela and I blog over at Cut to Pieces. I am very excited about this baby crib quilt. I had the pleasure of working with Sweetwater’s Hometown fabric and I couldn’t be more in love with it. There is something about this collection that just begs you to snuggle with it. After making this quilt, I want to make Pajama pants in almost every fabric. ūüėČ

Picket Fences is a crib quilt that is a perfect welcome home gift for the newest little one in your life. You can have fun trying to find your own Hometown among the many, many names on the fabric. I found mine! The canvas backing makes for a durable floor play mat, but this also makes a beautiful wall hanging. Either way, this quilt will be well loved by all.

‚ÄĘ 3 Charm Packs of Sweetwater’s Hometown
‚ÄĘ 1 Jelly Roll of Bella White Solids
‚ÄĘ 1/2 yard of fabric for the binding
‚ÄĘ 2 yards of Hometown canvas grey dot for the backing
‚ÄĘ 2 yards of Hometown canvas town print for the backing

Latest Project

Charm Packs and a Jelly Roll make quick work of piecing this quilt top. The quilt is pieced in vertical columns made up of charms and/or jelly roll strips. Then each vertical row is sewn together to complete the top. A small amount of paper piecing is used to create the tips of the picket fence (but don’t worry if you don’t do paper piecing! You can use the patterns in the Printer Friendly version as templates).


White Bella Solid:

Select (11) strips from the White Jelly Roll.

Cut (8) strips 22.5″ in length for 2.5″ x 22.5″ pieces. ¬†Use the remaining part of the strip for the 8 paper pieced fence tips. ¬†There is plenty for this!

picket fences

Cut (3) strips into (9) sets of (2) 2.5″ x 5″ pieces. You need 18 pieces total and you can get 8 pieces per strip.

picket fences

Hometown Charm Packs

I chose to remove the solid cream fabrics from the charm packs as I felt that there would not be enough contrast between the cream and the white “fence”.

‚ÄĘ Select (8) charms to be used with the paper pieced tips. ¬†Cut each charm in half to create (2) 2.5″ x 5″ pieces. ¬†Keep the two halves together for use on the same fence tip.

‚ÄĘ Select between (16) and (32) charms to cut in half to create pieces ¬†2.5″ x 5″. ¬†You need (32) half charms all together, but you may or may not want to repeat which ones you have of this size. ¬†Thus you can either choose (16) pieces or up to (32) pieces to cut in half.

picket fences

‚ÄĘ Select (8) charms for the “post” rows. ¬†Cut each charm in half and then cut (8) of those into 2.75″ x 2.5″ pieces.

¬†‚ÄĘ Select (72) charms to be used throughout the background as well.


The first thing you get to do is play with all the pretty fabrics in the charm packs! ¬†You will need to lay out your charm squares, half charm squares and perhaps even some of your “fence” pieces to spread out the colors and patterns evenly throughout the background. ¬†There are nine “rail” rows (which are 5″ wide) ¬†and eight “post” rows (which are only 2.5″ wide).

You can use this picture as a visual for where you are headed.

Picket Fences

Each “post” row is only 2.5″ wide and uses half charms, jelly roll strips, and the paper pieced tip. From top to bottom, there are 3 half charms, followed by a “quarter” charm, then the paper pieced tip and the 22.5″ long fence post.

picket fence post
Each “rail” row is made up of 5 charms followed by a “rail”, then two more charms, another “rail” and ends with a single charm at the bottom.
picket fence rail
As you can see here, I just put my fabric out all over the floor and tried to evenly distribute the colors and fabrics.  You will be using both of your full sized charms (for the rail rows) and your half charms (for the post rows).
picket fences

Things can get confusing very quickly, so I find it helpful to label each row. ¬†Use whatever system works best for you, but I just grab some generic plain labels and stick them on. (A little tip: don’t put the labels where they could get caught in the seam allowance! ¬†This way you can keep the labels on while you sew the pieces together and remove them when you need to.)

picket fences

I start to partially construct my rows by sewing together each very simple rail column.  I press all the seams in one direction from the bottom to the top of the row.

picket fences

Sewing the Fence Tips

Use the templates in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of the post and make 8 copies of the fence post tips for paper piecing. ¬†This is a very simple little paper pieced pattern. If you are not familiar with paper piecing, you can also use the print out the pattern as a template guide. ¬†You can make your own templates simply by cutting out each shape and then add a 1/4″ seam allowance on all sides of pieces 1, 2, and 3. ¬† Piece 1 is the fence itself and should the white solid. ¬†Pieces 2 and 3 are two halves of a charm as chosen before. ¬†And piece 4 is a “quarter” charm (or more accurately 2.75″ x 2.5″).

picket fences

Use the pattern to sew the white fabric to the paper and surround it on either side with the two matching half charms.

picket fences

Sew the upper half of the post row to the paper pieced fence tip, connecting the fence tip to the background fabric.  Remove the paper.

picket fences

Here is a view of the upper half of the “post” row from the front.

picket fences

Sew each upper “post” row to one of the 22.5″ long pieces of the white solid. ¬†The rows may look a little odd at first because of the extra fabric on either side of the fence tip. ¬†But you want this! ¬†That is your seam allowance for when you sew a “post” row to a “rail” row.

picket fences

Putting your Quilt Top Together

Begin to sew each of your “post” and “rail” vertical rows together in order to create your quilt top. ¬†Pin together at each matching seam and as needed to help keep your fabrics together.

picket fences

Sew row 1 (a rail row) to row 2 (a post row) and press the seam allowance toward row 2.  Then sew these two rows to row 3 and so on.

picket fences

Your quilt top will begin to come together.  Soon you will be able to see a fence, piece by piece.

Picket Fences

More rows sewn together.

Picket Fences

A whole fence, built of rail rows and post rows!

Picket Fences

The Backing

The backing of a quilt is always a bit larger than the quilt top to allow for some shifting during the quilting process.  This back is no exception.

From the two yard lengths of canvas, cut an 18″ width of the grey polka dot and a 33″ width of the town print.

picket fences

Using some of the left over fabric from the jelly rolls and a single charm, create a strip to go between the two canvas prints.  Cut the charm into fourths and use three of the pieces spread evenly between lengths of white solid.  Then sew this pieced strip in between the two canvas prints, creating one backing.

picket fences

Here you can see the backing in action!  That little quarter charm just pops off the back!



Completing the Quilt:

Use your favorite basting method to baste together the backing, batting and quilt top. I chose to use a low loft cotton batting. Then quilt as desired. I echo quilted the fence posts with straight line quilting. Then I used free motion quilting to create a horizontal “wind” effect on the top half of the quilt and a vertical “grass” effect on the bottom half of the quilt.



I bound my quilt using (5) 2 1/2″ wide strips sewn together on the bias end-to-end. I fold that in half all along the length and stitch to the edge of the quilt. Then I flip the folded edge to the back of the quilt and hand sew in place. Just a simple double fold binding method.


One Crib Quilt sized 45″ x 60″.


I hope you like this design! I’d love to see any versions you make of this quilt. You can share them on Flickr in my group Cut To Pieces and of course the Moda Bake Shop group.

Angela Pingel

Paradise Batik Wave Quilt

Hi everyone! I’m Cara from CaraQuilts and I have a really fun, versatile and easy bed-sized quilt for you! This quilt only uses four patches and solid blocks! It’s all about colour placement and positioning. This quilt would be great for a younger person and any fabrics will work just as well. It can be done super scrappy or with only a few prints. While I used fat quarters, you can make it the exactly the same by using 30 jelly roll strips, cut in half.

You can make the quilt bigger or smaller by adding or subtracting blocks in multiples of 2. Any solid can be used and any fabric line will look stunning! Go grab your favorite line and let’s get sewing!
As always please read through the directions before starting and if you have any questions or comments please come on over to my blog!

9 FQs Paradise Batiks, or (1) 2 1/2 x 21″ strip from 20 FQs, and (2) 2 1/2 x 21″ strips from 20 FQs
1 Bella Solids Black Jelly Roll, or 2 yards Bella Solids Black
3 3/4 yards Bella Solid Black, or 6 Bella Solids charm packs in black.

Cut 2 1/2″ x 21″ strips from the fat quarters. You can use all 9 strips from the fat quarter or cut 2 strips from each FQ in the bundle. You will need (60) 2 1/2″ x 21″ strips.

Cut (30) jelly roll strips in half so that you have (60) 2 1/2″ x 21-22″ strips.

Cut (30) 4 1/2″ x WOF strips from Bella Solids Black. Sub-cut each strip into 4 1/2″ squares. You need (240) 4 1/2″ squares.


Stitch (1) batik strip to (1) black strip lengthwise. Press to the black. Repeat with all 60 strips.

Lay your ruler across both fabrics and cut every 2 1/2″, creating 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2 strips. Cut all of the strip sets like this. You will end up with (480) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ strips.

Take (2) of these strips and lay right sides together with opposite fabrics touching (black touching batik). Stitch lengthwise to create a 4 patch. Press open. Repeat with all of the strips so that you have 240 four patches.

Stitch (1) 4 1/2″ black square to (1) four patch, and press towards the black. Repeat.

Take the two units and lay right sides together so that the batik pieces are in the middle and the solid patch and four patch are touching. Stitch together. Create 120 of these.

There are 12 rows for the quilt… 6 for the top half, with the first blocks pointing up, and 6 for the bottom half with the first blocks pointing down. Each row has 10 blocks. Stitch rows. Press rows in alternating directions so that when you stitch the rows together the seams will “snap” together. Because the black hides all the seams and block lines, I’ve provided a layout with white so you can see it better.

Stitch the rows together. Press well.

Now for the most loved/hated words in quilting- baste, quilt and bind!

I quilted mine only in the black with circles in each square.

To make this quilt bigger, you can add borders or additional rows. 12 blocks by 12 blocks will yield a 96″ square top.

For a King size quilt make 14 x 14 blocks, yielding 112″ x 112″ quilt.

One 80″ x 96″ sized quilt!

Cara Wilson

Ruby, Pearl, and Opal Quilt

Hey all!¬† I am so excited to be sharing another Bake Shop Quilt with you all!¬† It’s me, Corey, from Little Miss Shabby.¬† As soon as I saw Bonnie and Camille’s Ruby line of fabric, I knew that some of it had to make its way to my house.¬† Not only is the fabric beautiful– it also¬†shares its name with¬†my husband’s Great Aunt Ruby.¬† Incidentally, my husband’s Grandmother’s name¬†was Opal, sister to his Great Aunt Ruby. Let’s not forget their other¬†sister, Pearl.¬† No Joke, how cute is that?!? –So, of course we have the Ruby,¬†Pearl, and Opal¬†Quilt. =)

I have also included instructions for a pieced backing using your leftover fabric.  I do love a great pieced backing. You will have very little fabric leftover if you opt for the pieced backing. 

Without further ado… “Ruby, Pearl, and Opal”.


1 Ruby Layer Cake
3 yd. Cream Solid {9900-97}
2 1/4 yd. Backing Print {55030-13}
1/2 yd. Binding Print {55037-11}

Layer Cake Cutting Instructions:

Divide the layer cake into 2 piles of 20 pieces.  Make sure to distribute the colors evenly between the 2 piles.

From Pile #1 cut the following (shown above in the aqua fabrics):

~ {1} 2.5″ strip, subcut into 3″¬†and¬†5″ (pieces F and G)
~ {1} 5.5″ strip, subcut into 3.5″¬†and¬†4.5″ (pieces¬†E¬†and¬†D)
*save the leftover piece from cutting this strip–it will be used for piece C*
~ Save the 2″ x 10″ leftover piece for the pieced backing

From Pile #2 cut the following (shown above in the green fabrics):

~ {1} 3.5″ strip, subcut into 3.5″¬†and¬†4.5″ (pieces A¬†and¬†B)
*save the leftover piece from¬†cutting this strip–it will be used for piece C*
~ {1} 3.5″ x 8.5″ strip (piece H)
~ Save the 3″ x 10″ leftover piece for the pieced backing

~Label the cut layer cake pieces as you go.~

White Fabric Cutting Instructions:

For the Blocks cut:
–{22}strips 1.5″ x WOF (width of fabric), set aside 2, from each of ¬†the remaining 20 strips subcut¬†as follows: {1} 12.5″, {2} 8.5″, {1} 5.5″, {2} 3.5″

From the 2 set aside strips subcut {20} 2.5″ strips

For the Sashing cut:
–{5} 1.5″ x WOF strips, subcut into {15} 12.5″ strips
–{5}1.5″ x WOF strips, sew end to end¬†and¬†cut {4} long strips 1.5″ x 51.5″

For the Borders cut:
–{6} 4.5″ x WOF Strips, sew end to end¬†and¬†cut {2} long strips 4.5″ x 59.5″ and {2} long strips 4.5″ x 64.5″

For the Pieced Backing cut:
— {4} 7.5″ x WOF strips, sew 2 pairs together to make {2} long strips 7.5″ x 88″, trim to 7.5″ x 81″

Backing Fabric Cutting Instructions:

Cut backing fabric into {2} pieces, one 12″ x 81″ and one 32″ x 81″

Binding Fabric Cutting Instructions:

Cut {7} strips 2.25″ x WOF

Piecing Instructions:
{All seams allowances = scant 1/4″}

Use the set aside¬†pieces leftover from cutting the layer cake ( 2″ x 5.5″¬†and¬†2″ x¬†3.5″).¬† Make sure not to¬†use the pieces set aside for the pieced backing.¬†

With right sides together, sew together {2} 2″ x 3.5″ pieces, press seams open.¬† Repeat until all pairs are sew together.¬† You will have 10 units.¬† Repeat for the 2″ x 5.5″ strips.

Trim all 20 of the strip sets to 3.5″ x 3.5″ blocks.¬† These units will be piece C.

This is the block layout.

Begin by sewing the A/B/C strip section section together with the 1.5″ x 3.5″ white strips.¬† Piece 1/2 of the C blocks with the seam running¬†horizontally as pictured and 1/2 with the seam running¬†vertically as pictured.¬† Press all seams away from the white strips.¬† The completed strip sets will measure 3.5″ x 12.5″ and will be referred to as A/B/C strip set.

Sew together pieces D¬†and¬†E along with the 1.5″ x 5.5″ white strip.¬† Press seams away from the white.¬† These strip sets will be 5.5″ x 8.5″ and will be referred to as D/E strip set.¬†

Sew together pieces F¬†and¬†G with the 1.5″ x 2.5″ white strip.¬† Press seams away from the white strip.¬† The strip unit will measure 2.5″ x 8.5″¬†and will be referred to as F/G strip set.

Sew together a D/E strip set, an F/G strip set, piece H, and the two 1.5″ x 8.5″ white strips.¬† Press all seams away from the white strips.¬† These strips sets will measure 8.5″ x 12.5″.

Now sew together the strip set you just completed, the A/B/C strip set, and the 1.5″ x 12.5″ white strip.¬† Press away from the white.¬† These will be your completed blocks and will measure 12.5″ square.

Arrange the quilt blocks 4 blocks by 5 blocks, orienting the blocks randomly as you go.

Sew together the top row using 4 blocks and 3 sashing strips 1.5″ x 12.5″.¬† Press seams away from the white fabric.¬† Continue with the remaining rows.¬†

Sew together the completed rows using the 1.5″ x 51.5″ long sashing.¬† Press away from the white fabric.¬† Add borders–Left and Right sides first, Top and Bottom second.¬† Your quilt top is now finished and we are ready to piece the backing.

Pieced Backing:
Sew together all¬†the¬†2″ x 10″ and 3″ x 10″ extra¬†layer cake strips¬†into a long strip approx. 10″ x 81″.¬† Sew a white backing strip onto the left and right of the pieced section.¬† And finally, sew¬†a backing print piece to the right and left of the white pieces.¬† Trim up the backing if needed.

You are now ready to sandwich your quilt top/batting/backing, baste, quilt and bind.  I opted to straight-line machine quilt my quilt.

ÔĽŅYou now have one fabulous 59″ x 72″ quilt with an equally snazzy pieced backing.

I hope that you have a great time making this quilt!¬† And I’d love to see you over at my blog. =)

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}