Avant Garden Turning Squares Quilt


Hello!  I am Erica from Kitchen Table Quilting and I am here today with a tutorial for a quilt using MoMo’s gorgeous new fabric line Avant Garden.  I made this quilt nice and big with picnics in mind, but it is just as good for snuggling.  However you use the quilt, this is a quick way to make a big quilt using jelly rolls.

2 Jelly Rolls Avant Garden
1 Yard Mochi Unbleached Linen
4 1/4 Yard Linen Mochi Dot Boysenberry
Batting at least 76″ x 76″

You will need 72 total jelly roll strips for this project.  I chose to cut a few 2.5″ x Width of Fabric strips and mixed them in with my jelly roll strips, but the jelly rolls have more than enough strips.  Set aside the extra strips for future projects or use them to make your binding.
Take 36 of the jelly roll strips and cut them down to 2.5″ x 12.5″.  Cut the remaining 36 strips down to 2.5″ x 6.5″.  You will need a total of (108) 12.5″ strips and (216) 6.5″ strips.  It sounds like a lot but the precuts make it quick work!
For each block you will need (3) 2.5″ x 12.5″ strips and (6) 2.5″ x 6.5″

Place your strips into the following layout.

And start piecing the strips into pairs, pressing the seams open.

Add a third strip to each pair and press.

Then piece the 6.5″ squares together.

And then add the 12.5″ piece to create a 12.5″ square.  If you are using a scant quarter inch, you might need to trim your block down a little to get make it 12.5″.

Make 35 more blocks.

Place your blocks into groups of 4, turning them so that the 4 small squares in the center line up.  Piece them into pairs and press the seams open.

And then piece the pairs together.

Arrange the squares into 3 rows with 3 squares in each row.  Piece the squares together into rows and then join the rows.

Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 72″ x 72″

I used the linen dot for the back of the quilt and the solid linen for the binding.  Not only does it have a wonderful texture, but it was wonderful to work with and gives the quilt a nice weight.  If you decide to use linen for the binding I would suggest cutting it slightly wider than normal (I cut mine 2 5/8″ instead of 2 1/2″).

Erica Jackman
{www.kitchentablequilting.com}

Tumbling Around Quilt



Hi there! Konda Luckau from Moose on the Porch Quilts here. I have loved playing around with honeycombs! I have a tumbling block quilt from my grandmother that I love. I have wanted to make one for a very long time. These Honeycombs finally make this quilt easy, and fun, to make! I have a new technique for piecing these blocks by machine – including being able to chain piece the blocks. I have a new book coming out this Spring full of projects using this new technique. Give it a try. You just may like it!

1 25th & Pine Honeycomb
1 1/4 yards White Bella Solid
2/3 yard Honky Tonk Red Plaid
1 1/4 yards Backing
Plastic Hexagon Template from Honeycomb


Cutting Instructions:
1. Take the plastic hexagon template from the honeycomb. Cut it as shown below.

2. Cut the white background fabric into 4 – 2 1/2″ strips, 4 – 4 1/2″ strips, and 3 – 2 5/8″ strips.
3. Using the diamond template, cut 28 diamonds from the 2 5/8″ strips.
4. Cut the red accent and binding fabric into 4 – 1 1/2″ strips and 4 – 2 1/2″ strips.
5. Take 25th & Pine Honeycomb and cut each hexagon into three diamonds as shown below.

Sewing Instructions:
6. Reorganize the diamonds into three stacks according to color.

7. Now for the magic! This is the trick to piecing y-seams on a sewing machine. The difference between my method and traditional machine piecing techniques is that my method can be chain pieced! Chain piecing means it is a lot faster and less thread waste. Refer to the picture below.
    a. Start the seam 1/4″ down from the corner.
    b. Sew 1/4″ into the diamond parallel to the top edge of the diamond.
    c. Sew down the right edge of the diamond with a 1/4″ seam.
    d. Stop 1/4″ from bottom edge.
    e. Sew to the right edge parallel to the bottom edge.
    f. Now it is ready for the next piece!

8. Seams will be pressed clockwise.

9. The bottom diamond is sewed on one seam at a time. Using the same method as above, matching diamond points, sew the right seam.

10. This is what it looks like opened up.

11. Fold hexagon in half matching points and sew the last seam as shown below.

12. Press the seams clockwise opening up the center of the seam allowances into a bitty hexagon.

13. With those three seams, one tumbling block is created! Repeat to make 38 tumbling blocks.

 14. Lay out the center of the quilt as shown below.

15. Using the same machine piecing technique as before, sew the tumbling blocks into rows.

16. Again, using the same machine piecing technique as before, sew the rows together.

17. Trim the left and right sides even. Trim the top and bottom 1/4″ outside of the points. The quilt should now measure about 26″ x 27″. Your measurements may differ slightly because of the many bias edges. Press carefully.

18. Use the 4 – 2 1/2″ white background strips to sew on the first border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of border strips.
19. Use the 4 – 1 1/2″ red accent strips to sew on the second border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of the border strips.
20. Use the 4 – 4 1/2″ white background strips to sew on the third border. Measure carefully before cutting the length of the border strips.
21. Quilt and use the 4 – 2 1/2″ binding strips to bind the quilt.

One fabulous quilt machine pieced tumbling block quilt that measures about 39″ x 40″.

Konda Luckau
{www.moosequilts.com/blog}

Scissor Case


 

2) contrasting  5″ charm squares
1) 5 1/2″ square of batting
1) 12″ length of skinny ribbon  1/4″ or smaller
1) Button
thread that matches
walking foot if you have one

Place the two charm squares right sides together on of the batting square. Centering so there is a little batting all the way around the charm squares.

Start sewing 1″ from the top right hand corner. Continue to sew all the way around to the top left hand corner. Sew in 1″.  this will leave an opening at the top.

Remove as much batting as you can from the seam allowance all 4
sides, by carefully cutting it close to the stitch without cutting into it.

Clip all 4 corners to reduce bulk.

Turn inside out between the two charm squares.

Use a chop stick to make the corners nice and crisp.

Press the opening 1/4″ into the seam allowance.

On just 2 sides start quilting with a stitch 1/8″ from the edge and then move in 1/2″ at a time. Make 7 lines.

Fold the ribbon in half and place the fold 1/2″ from the top right hand side on what will be the body of your scissor case.

Fold in half with the body to the inside to form a triangle.

Sew 1/8″ seam down the edge with the ribbon.

at the end point sew back and forth 4 or 5 times about 1/2″ from the point.

cut off the tip 1/8″ away from the seam.

turn inside out and with your chop stick force the point in place.

Turn the top down and sew the button in the middle of the triangle area

Insert the embroidery scissors, bring the tails of the ribbon through the scissors and tie under the button to keep the scissors from falling out.

They go fast so make them in lots of color combos. Makes a great gift for your sewing friends.

Dawn Cornell
{modabakeshop/dawncornell}

Winter Wonderland Peaks & Paddocks Quilt


Have you ever found a fabric line that made you squeal right there in the middle of the fabric shop? Have you ever found one that made you giggle with glee and rush to share it with your best quilty friends?  Winter Wonderland by Bunny Hill for Moda did that to me!  I am beyond thrilled to be able to share my quilt made from it with all of you!

I love, love, love the snowmen and the trucks.  What could be better than snowmen driving pick up trucks….perhaps a snugly quilt to make you laugh and keep you warm?!

detail of Winter Wonderland panel

Peaks & Paddocks is a simple quilt made from one, funky block.

I think I was thinking Snowball. I ended up with a center-less Shoo-flly.  Either way, the block screams, “You got it wrong!”  I wanted to find out what would happen if you made a bunch of blocks, all with the same irritating mistake in them, more on that later.


General Description of Quilt
16, 12” finished blocks in a 4 x 4 grid
2 borders
               1” finished inner border with tiny half square triangle (hst) setting squares
               4” finished outer border with large hst setting squares
As described the quilt finishes out at 59” x 59”


 
Fabric Requirements:
Blocks
What I used
           Red on White
1 ¾ yards
Selections from fat quarter bundle SKU#2870AB
           White on Red
½ yard
           Red on Red
¼ yard
           White on White
¼ yard
Inner Border + Binding
¾ yard
SKU#2875-15 red on red, twigs & berries
Outer Border
1 ¼ yards
SKU#2871-12 red on white, snowmen
Backing
3 ½ yards
SKU#2872-18 white on red, cars
Cutting Directions:
  • From Red on White
    •  80, 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
      • Cut a total of 20, 4 ½” x 18” rectangles from fat quarters
      •  Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares for a total of 80 squares
    •  24, 5” x 5” squares for half square triangles (HSTS)
      • Cut a total of 6, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 24 squares
  • From White on Red
    • 24, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 6, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 24 squares
  • From Red on Red
    • 8, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 2, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 8 squares
  • From White on White
    • 8, 5” x 5” squares for HSTS
      • Cut a total of 2, 5” x 22” rectangles from fat quarters
      • Sub cut each rectangle into 4, 5” x 5” squares for a total of 8 squares
  • From Inner Border Fabric
    • 5, 1 1/2” x width of fabric (wof) strips for inner border
    • 2, 2” x 2” squares for inner border setting squares for HSTS
    • 2, 5” x 5” squares for outer border setting squares for HSTS
    • 6, 2 ½” x wof strips for binding
  •  From Outer Border Fabric
    • 5, 4 ½” x wof strips for outer border
    • 2, 2” x 2” squares for inner border setting squares for HSTS
    • 2, 5” x 5” squares for outer border setting squares for HSTS

Sewing Directions:
  •  Blocks
    • General description
      • Each 12” finished block (actually measures 12 ½” x 12 ½” to allow for ¼” seam allowances) is made from 9, 4 ½” x 4 ½” patches.
        • 5 patches are 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
        •  4 patches are pieced HSTS 

      • The block is based on the classic Shoo-fly design with two exceptions.
        1. There is not contrasting center to my block.
        2.  One of the corners is WRONG!  If you looked at the picture above and thought, “Oh, Cindy drew this one wrong.”  You are absolutely right; however, I did it on purpose.  Over the last 11 months I have been exploring what happens when you make a bunch of blocks wrong on purpose.  The results might surprise you.  They did me.  You can check them out under the “Oops” tab of my block of the month blog, Quilty Friends.
    • HSTS
      • Gather 
        • 24, 5″ x 5″ squares red on white fabric for traditional corners
        • 24, 5″ x 5″ squares white on red fabric for traditional corners
        • 8, 5″ x 5″ squares red on red fabric for WRONG corners
        • 8, 5″ x 5″ squares white on white fabric for WRONG corners
      • On the wrong side of all squares with white background draw a diagonal line.
      • Layer 1 red on white square with 1 white on red square, right sides together
      • Sew 1/4 from each side of drawn line…yes, sew twice.
      • Cut on drawn line.
      • Being careful not to warp triangles, gently iron triangles open…into squares.
      • Iron seam allowances open.
      • You now have 2, HSTS
      • Trim HSTS to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ square
      • Repeat process with all red on white and white on red squares for a total of 48 HSTS for traditional corner patches
      • Repeat process with all red on red and white on white squares for a total of 16 HSTS for WRONG corner patches
    • BLOCKS
      • Gather
        • 48 traditional corner patch HSTS
        • 16 WRONG corner patch HSTS
        • 80, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ red on white squares
      • Making one block at a time, arrange 9 pieces in front of you to match drawing.
      • Be careful to get the red triangles oriented correctly.
      • Sew patches together to make rows
        • Row 1: traditional HST with RED down and to the right; red on white square; traditional HST with RED down and to the left.
        • Row 2: red on white square; red on white square; red on white square
        • Row 3: WRONG HST with Red down and to the left; red on white square; traditional HST with Red UP and to the left.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the red on white square in rows 1 and 3
      • Iron seam allowances away from the center in row 2
      • Sew rows together to make block
      • Trim block to 12 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ square.
      • Repeat 15 times for a total of 16 blocks.
  • Quilt Top
    • Gather
      •  16 blocks
    • Arrange blocks in a 4 x 4 grid being careful to orient them so that the WRONG HST corners touch.  (see arrows in layout diagram above)
    • Sew sets of  4 block rows.
    • With the WRONG HST on the side closest to you, iron all seam allowances in the same direction.,
    • Sew rows together to make center of quilt.
      • NOTE: If you ironed the seam allowances as suggested, the allowances will snuggle together when you flip rows 2 and 4 to orient them correctly.
    • Iron seam allowances in the same direction.
    • Measure quilt and record below.
      • It should measure something like 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″. 
      • ________ wide
      • ________ long
  • Borders
    • Inner Border
      • Gather
        • 5, 1 1/2” x width of fabric (wof) strips for inner border
        • 2, 2” x 2” squares inner border fabric
        • 2, 2” x 2” squares outer border fabric
      • Setting Squares
        • Using method described above make 4, 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ HSTS from 2″ x 2″ squares
      • Edge pieces
        • Cut 1, 1 1/2″ x wof strip into 4 equal pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ give or take.
        • Sew 1, 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ section to the skinny edge of each 1 1/2″ x wof strip.
        • Iron seam allowances open.
        • Using measurements recorded above, cut strips to lengths equal to the side of your top.  They should be very close to 1 1/2″ x 48 1/2″ each.
      • Sew edge pieces to 2, parallel sides of top.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the border.
      • Being careful to orient the corners in the correct direction, sew setting squares to ends of remaining edge pieces.  See diagram below.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the setting blocks.
      • Sew pieces to remaining border-less edges of quilt
      • Iron seam allowances toward borders.
      • Measure quilt and record below.
        • It should measure 50 1/2″ x 50 1/2″
        • _______wide
        • _______long
    • Outer Border
      • Gather
        • 5, 4 ½” x wof strips for outer border
        • 2, 5” x 5” squares outer border fabric
        • 2, 5” x 5” squares inner border fabric 
      • Setting Squares
        • Using the method described above make 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ HSTS from 5″ x 5″ squares
      • Edge pieces
        • Cut 1, 4 1/2″ x wof strip into 4 equal pieces measuring 4 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ give or take.
        • Sew 1, 4 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ section to the skinny edge of each 4 1/2″ x wof strip.
        • Iron seam allowances open.
        • Using measurements recorded above, cut strips to lengths equal to the side of your top.  They should be very close to 4 1/2″ x 50 1/2″ each.
      • Sew edge pieces to 2, parallel sides of top.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the border.
      • Being careful to orient the corners in the correct direction, sew setting squares to ends of remaining edge pieces.  See diagram below.
      • Iron seam allowances toward the setting blocks.
      • Sew pieces to remaining border-less edges of quilt
      • Iron seam allowances toward borders.
  • Layer and quilt as desired.
    • I quilted mine with white thread in Christmas Snow by Anne Bright
detail from Winter Wonderland panel
I hope you enjoy my pattern.  Please share a picture of your completed quilt with me!  I have a Tops to Treasures Flickr group just for that purpose!  Come join the group.
Stop by my blog, Tops to Treasures to win one of the wonderful Winter Wonderland panels!

Jelly Turnover Quilt


Hello! I’m Shannon from Modern Tradition Quilts.  It’s an honor for me to be with you today on Moda Bake Shop.  I love working with pre-cut fabrics.  When it comes to creating quilts, the possibilities are endless!  When designing this quilt, I thought it would be fun to use a jelly-roll for the sashing and candy squares for the gem-stone corners–after all, they are already pre-cut to the same width.  All that was left was to decide what type of blocks to use.  Since charm squares create half-square triangles so readily, this quilt came together like “Peanut-butter & Jelly”–hence its name, the Jelly Turnover Quilt.

To create this project you will need:
  • One packages of 5″ charm squares.  (I used Grant Park)  This quilt uses 40 print squares.
  • One packages of 5″ bella solids charm squares.  This quilt uses 40 white squares.
  • Three packages of 2 1/2″ candy squares for the gem stone corners on the sashing. (I also used Grant Park).  This quilt uses 99 squares.
  • One 2 1/2″ jelly roll for the sashing (I also used bella solid white).  This quilt uses 23 strips.
  • One yard navy blue fabric for the binding. 

    To create the half-square triangles (HSTs):

    • Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each white Bella solid charm square.
    • Layer one white charm square on top of one print charm square with right sides facing.
    • Sew down both sides of the drawn line.

    • Cut down the drawn line and press seams towards the darker print fabric.
    • Square all HSTs to measure exactly 4 1/2 inches. 
    Use your favorite method of choice for this.  I like using a small square ruler.  Basically, you are trimming off the factory-created pinked/serrated edges.
    • Yield: 80 HSTs.

      To create the sashing:

      • Select twenty-three 2 1/2 inch jelly roll strips.
      • Cut the 2 1/2 inch white strips from the jelly roll into 4 1/2 inch sections.  Yield: 16 sashing rectangles measuring 2 1/2 inches by 4 1/2 inches per jelly roll length.
      Quick tip:  It is easy to cut several jelly-roll strips at once by laying 5 or 6 strips on your cutting board at a time.  Then, simply make the same rotary cuts that you would doing just one strip at a time.
      • This quilt requires 178 of these rectangles.

        To sew the vertical sashing units:

        • Select five 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch strips and five 2 1/2″ candy squares.  Sew these end to end to create a vertical sashing strip.  Press all seams towards the sashing to reduce bulk.  Create 18 of these strips.

        • Sew one horizontal sashing row for the bottom of the quilt.  It is comprised of nine 2 1/2 inch candy squares and eight 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch sashing strips.

        Note: This quilt is sewn in four quadrants–one quadrant at a time to ensure the proper placement of the HST unit to make the echo effect.  Each quadrant uses 20 HSTs.

        General directions for sewing all four quadrants:

        • Take twenty HSTs and  twenty 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch rectangles.
        • Chain-sew the 2 1/2 inch by 4 1/2 inch rectangle to the top of the HST.  Check the orientation of the HST you are working on as they differ in all four quadrants.  Press all seams towards the sashing to create less bulk.

        Note, the HST rotates depending on which quadrant of the quilt you are working on.
        • Sew this units into four columns of 5 units down.  Press all seams towards the sashing to create less bulk.
        • Add four vertical sashing strips to the side of each of the four 5-unit columns.  Refer to the quadrant diagram to check if it is the right or left-hand side.  If pressed correctly, these seams should nest.  Pin-match the intersections and sew with the HSTs on top to avoid blunting the points.  Also press these seams towards the sashing.  This will enable the quilt top to lie flat.
        Sew the columns together with HSTs on top so their points do not get blunted.
        • Sew these four columns together to create one quadrant.

          The upper left-hand quadrant HST orientation is: 

          The upper right-hand quadrant HST orientation is:

          The lower left-hand quadrant HST orientation is

          The lower right-hand quadrant HST orientation is:

          Use this assembly diagram to add the four quadrant panels together.

          • First, add the top left-hand quadrant to a center vertical sashing strip, then add the right-hand upper quadrant.
          • Second, add the bottom left-hand quadrant to a center vertical sashing strip, then add the right-hand lower quadrant.
          • Third, sew the top and bottom halves together.
          • Fourth and final, add the long horizontal sashing strip to the bottom to finish your quilt top.
          Assembly Diagram

          The finished quilt top diagram:


          The finished quilt top measures 50 inches by 62 inches.

          I quilted this using a lasso edge-to-edge style.

          Shannon Mower
          {moderntraditionquilts.blogspot.com}