Tic Tac Toe Play Quilt

Hi!  I’m Cherie from SEW and So Quilts.  I am SO excited to bring you my first project for the Bake Shop!  I’ve seen a few different play quilts for kids, and since my girls love Tic Tac Toe, I thought that this would make a great pattern, especially for rainy days or days when it is too hot to play outside (I think heat index during the summer in Southern Mississippi is 115) 🙂  This is a quick project and would make a great gift for a little special someone!

One Layer Cake of Fairy Tale Friends by American Jane
One yard of Bella Snow
Two Yards of solid or small print (I used a small orange dot) for binding, backing, and block corners.
18 inches of transfer webbing
Filling: rice or plastic pellets


Step 1

To begin, select 2 sets of 3 pieces from your layer cake to become your beanbags.  You will need ten 5-inch squares of each color to make 5 beanbags of each color.  I picked these particular prints because the layer cake had 3 of the small red dot and two of the small orange dot.  I then used a small scrap of orange dot (also used for backing, binding, and corners) to cut an additional two pieces to become the fifth bag.  If you didn’t want to use the exact same print, you could use similar prints in the same colorway.  The colors should be different enough to separate player A from player B 🙂

With right sides together, sew around the borders of each one, leaving a small opening that will allow you to turn your fabric.

Once all the squares are sew, turn your bags, fill with rice or plastic pellets, and hand stitch close.  Place these to the side, and you’re ready to move on to your quilt.

Step 2

Select 8 prints to be used for the 2.5-inch blocks around each letter. I used prints that were different from the binding and backing. Here you can see that I auditioned lots of combinations until I found a few that were pleasing to the eye.

Cut each piece into four 2.5-inch strips.  You will need 30 strips total (you will have two extra strips leftover for scraps).

Step 3

Using various combinations of your fabric, sew together 10 sets of 3 strips–chain piecing saves so much time with this step.  (The image shows one set of 3) 

Now cut three 2.5-inch strips by width of fabric (WOF) from your solid/small print.  Sub cut these strips into 10-inch pieces for a total of eight 2.5-inch by 10-inch strips (there will be half of a strip left over).  From the 10 sets pieced above, take 5 of them and add the small print/solid to the top and bottom.

You will now have 5 sets of 3 and 5 sets of 5.

Step 4

Now cut each of your ten sets into four 2.5-inch strips.

Now you are ready to assemble your letter blocks!

Step 5

It’s time to make your letter blocks!  Cut nine 6.5-inch squares from your Bella solid that will become the center of your block.  Place these to the side while you work on your letters.

Using any word processing program, type your words “TIC TAC TOE” and resize to 4 inches tall.  I used Microsoft Word and used WordArt for the letters.  I made three individual blocks for each word and sized the box at 4 inches x 9 inches. This allowed me to fit each letter comfortably within each block as well as make the best use of space within the layer cake piece.  When printing, be sure to “mirror” your words.  They should look something like this:

Trace your letters onto fusible webbing.  I cut approximately 1/4 inches outside and inside the letters to minimize the amount of fusing in the quilt itself.  This helps to keep the letters soft.  Apply your webbing to your fabric per the manufacturer’s instructions, and then cut your letters out on your traced lines.

Once cut, fuse the letters onto your Bella Solid fabric.  Using a zigzag or decorative applique stitch, sew around each letter to secure it to your block.

Step 6

Apply your strips to each side, first sewing your sets of 3 to opposite sides, then adding your strips of five to the other side.

Now that your blocks are done, it’s time to add the sashing. 

Step 7

From your Bella Solid, cut eight 2.5-inch strips by WOF. 

Sub cut TWO of these into six 2.5 inch by 10.5 inch pieces to place between your blocks (there will be an extra half strip that won’t be used). Sash between the first and second and second and third letters in each row (vertical).  Be sure to avoid sashing BEFORE your first block and AFTER your last block, as you will add these borders at the end.

For sashing between the rows, measure your quilt at three different points (top, middle, bottom) to determine the width of your sashing (mine measured 34 3/4 inches).  Use 4 of your 2.5-inch by WOF strips and cut to your measurement.  Sew all rows together, sewing your sashing on top of the first row, between your rows of letters, and below your bottom row.  This picture helps to demonstrate the piecing:

Once all the rows are pieced, measure for the side border (mine measured at 38 3/4 inches).  Cut the remaining 2 of your 2.5-inch by WOF strips to your measurement.  Sew each side onto your quilt, and your top is done!

Step 8

Cut five 2.5-inch strips by WOF of your solid/small print for your binding and sew together into one long strip.  Fold in half to make a double fold binding.

The rest of your small print/solid will become your backing. 

Make your quilt sandwich, and quilt as desired.  I meandered around the entire quilt, avoiding the letters.  Trim the excess, and apply your binding.  


One 38-inch square play quilt with 10 beanbags (5 of each color.

Cherie Wright
{SEWandSoQuilts.blogspot.com}

Dueling Personalities Quilts

Have you ever had that struggle – you love a Fat Quarter Bundle, but aren’t sure what to do with it??? I have a solution for you – 2 quilts. I absolutely fell in love with the Mirage Batiks when I first saw them. But there was hot pink, lime green and brown… I was puzzled on how to take this luscious bundle and turn it into something cohesive. Then it hit me, why not separate the colors into their own personality and have 2 quilts? Two is always better than one!

I separated these fabrics into a bright quilt and an earth-tone quilt. Yu can split up the fabrics into 2 identical quilts or another way. Maybe one girl likes pink better while the other likes purple? Anyway you choose, 1 simple block will result in 2 quilts!

(Sorry for the blurry picture, it’s been hot and steamy here like in most of the USA as of late!)

For this quilt you will need 1 Fat Quarter Bundle (at least 40 fabrics, I used the Mirage Batik line)

For each quilt you will need:

3 yards background ( I used Kota Nautical #41000 59 and Kota Sweet Off White #41000 20)

3/4 yard binding (I used Kota Nautical #41000 59 and Mirage Marble Solid Brown #4503 35)

4-3/4 yards backing* (I used Mirage Spirals Midnight #4502 25 and Mirage Marble Solid Pear #4503 39)

* This quilt has a pieced back. If you would prefer just a solid backing, you will need 5-1/2 yards of backing.


Separate your Fat Quarters into 2 piles: one for each color style (mine were bright and earth-toned). Wash if you prefer (with these fabrics and the variety of colors within them, I washed the whole bunch using the Color Grabber sheets found in the laundry detergent aisle of your grocery stores – they’re like magic!)

Let’s get ready to cut:

*All seam allowances are 1/4″ unless noted.

* When cutting all Fat Quarters, cut through the selvages. In the pictures below I folded the Fat Quarter in half, folded edge towards me, selvage away from me…

Layout each Fat Quarter on the cutting mat as shown, straighten the left edge aligning your ruler with the fold of the fabric (or right side if you are left-handed) Each Fat Quarter will be cut the same way.

Trim the side leaving a nice clean starting point that is straight and even. 

First trim 2 strips 2-1/2″ wide. Leave these in strips.

Next cut a 4-1/2″ wide strip.

Cut this strip into (2) 4-1/2″ squares.

Lastly, cut a 5″ strip. Then cut this into (4) 5″ squares.

See all of that extra to the right? There is enough there that in case you goof (not that it ever has happened to me), you should be able to cut enough extra pieces. I’ve been there and hate having to scrounge for 1 small piece… But if you don’t goof – all of that can go in your stash!!! Yay for stashes! It’s like a little reward for you…

I used a small corkboard that I had around the house to stack all of my pieces on (it doesn’t let the pieces slip off).

One grouping of brights…

One of more neutrals…

Out of each “background” fabric cut:

(20) 2-1/2″ strips – leave in strips
(10) 5″ strips – cut into (80) 5″ squares

To make the Half Square Triangles for each block, mark the diagonal on one side of each 5″ “background” square.

Pair each marked square with a colored square (blue is the “background” for the brights, off white for the “earth-tones”) Sew 1/4″ from both sides of the drawn line.

Cut along the drawn line.

To reduce bulk when putting the tops together later on, I pressed my seams open on all Half Square Triangles.

There will be a small amount of excess on each unit made. Trim each unit down to a 4-1/2″ square.

This small step makes a HUGE difference later on. To read more about the importance of “Squaring Up” Half Square Triangles with a step-by-step guide, visit this tutorial on my blog here. Repeat for all Half Square Triangles…

Sew each of the 2-1/2″ strips from each Fat Quarter to a 2-1/2″ strip of “background”. Both colored strips will fit on one “background” strip. Press each style to the darker fabrics (for the earth-tone quilt, I pressed to the colors, for the bright quilt I pressed to the background).

Cut each strip set into (16) 2-1/2″ segments.

Pair matching segments, nesting the seams together (the pressed seams should go in opposite directions and meet snuggly together). Sew together until all pieces are paired.

Here’s another tip to reduce bulk: Clip the seam allowance (only the allowance, not the stitching!) in between the 2 seams. If you angle your scissors slightly, you can cut right between them.

Press the seams in the same circular direction as the first pressed seams (they will all go clockwise or counter-clockwise depending on the first seam). Notice mine are different for each quilt. This will make your Four Patches lay nice and flat from here on out!

Now time to make the blocks – Layout (4) Half Square Triangles, (4) Four Patches and (1) Coordinating 4-1/2″ Square as shown.

Sew the block together, first in rows, and then sew the rows together. Each block should measure 12-1/2″ square at this point.

Layout the blocks until you have a pleasing arrangement (5×7 setting – but wait, you have 40 blocks made… :] )

And the contrasting earth-tones…

Remember how I said this had a pieced back? Well, to prepare the pieced back, cut a piece 1-1/3 yards wide, a 12-1/2″ strip and the rest should be around 2-2/3 yards. Cut the first 2 pieces as shown above.

Layout your backing in this manner. The 5 remaining blocks will get sandwiched in between the 12-1/2″ strip. The 1-1/3 yard piece will get sewn back together into one LONG section (make sure the selvages are to the outside of the quilt) and the 2-2/3 yard piece will complete the backing section. Sew these all together and your backing will be slightly larger than the quilt tops (your quilter will LOVE you!)

Layer each quilt, it’s coordinating backing with some batting in the middle for not one, but TWO quilts!

Each quilt will measure 60″ x 84″ prior to washing. Each complete with it’s own personality!

They were blowing in the breeze on the clothesline…

Here’s a look at each one and the pieced backing. It adds an unexpected touch to the quilt that I just love!

So which fabrics would you choose for your personality?
Stop on over at my blog rubybluequilts.blogspot.com to see what else I might have up my sleeve and to chat. If you have any questions at all, please do not hesitate to contact me at rubybluequilts (at) gmail (dot) com. I’d love to hear from you and see any pictures of quilts you have made from my tutorials!
Rebecca Silbaugh 

Snuggle Play Laugh Love Quilt

Love

Hello everyone, I am Jennifer Overstreet from Gable House Sewing and I want to introduce you to my first Moda Bake Shop quilt, Snuggle Play Laugh Love (SPLL).  It is a baby quilt to snuggle with and to be used as a play mat. It is a great quilt that looks complicated, but is super easy for any beginner to make.

So what led me to think of something like this? When my sister and I were babies, my mom would place a quilt down on the floor with abundance of toys to keep us busy. This left my mom free to get some house cleaning done while we rolled around on the floor. I did the same thing with my daughter when she was little too. However, she turned out to be a bit of a blanket caper as she grew from a baby to a bouncing toddler. Needless to say, my daughter’s quilts and blankets have been part of many imaginative adventures.

Now that you know the story behind the idea of this little quilt, lets get started……

  • One Moda Charm Pack ~ Lily & Will (pink) Bunny Hill Designs By Anne Sutton
  • 1 yard for the inner boarder and binding (Essential Dots Baby Pink on White)
  • 1 yard for the outer boarder (Lily & Will Posh Pink Plaid 2806 11*) 
  • 1 1/8 yard for the backing (Lily & Will Pink 2800 11*)
  • If piecing in a strip of fabric in the middle of the backing, you only need 1 yard for the backing
  • 3/8 yard for applique and a strip of fabric for the backing (Best to use Bella Solids Brown)
  • Plus interfacing of choice for applique

Measurements:

  • You will be using 41 out of the 42 charm squares
  • For the inner border to go around the charm squares, you will need to cut out 20- 5 inch x 5 inch squares.  To start, cut 3 – 5in x width of fabric (wof) strips. Then cut the strips down to 5in x 5in squares  
  • For the main border, cut out 4 – 5 1/2 inches x wof strips
  • If using the pieced strip in the back to split up the 1 yard backing, cut 4 1/2 in x wof from the Bella Solids Brown
  • All seam allowances are 1/4 inch through out.

Step 1:

Open up your charm pack and sort the squares you want to use. Then arrange them according to the pattern scheme.

*You can place your color ways in any way that appeals to your eye. You do not by all means have to follow the color order in this pattern.

Play 14

Step 2:

Now that you have all your charm squares sorted, add the 20 – 5 in x 5 in squares to the ends of each row. Once the 20 squares are in place, sew each row according to the arrows.

Play 15

Step 3:

Before you start sewing each completed row together, note that there are arrows pointing on opposite directions on the out side of each row in the picture below. This is meant to to show you which way to press your seams. The reason why you want to press your seams in opposite directions is because when you go to sew the completed rows together, the seams will interlock when you match them up. This technique will make your seams turn out sharp and correct every time. Once seams are ironed, start sewing the completed rows together.

Play 16

You should have the beginning of a quilt top that looks like this:

Play 17

Step 4

Next up is to cut off those pointed edges. Start by measuring 1/4 of an inch away from the main part of the quilt top. This way when you go to sew on the main border, your main squares on your quilt top will not be sewn over; leaving the ends of the squares still having visible points towards the main border. Once you have your ruler set cut away the outer pointed edges with your rotary cutter.  When you are done, you should have a completely square quilt top. Check picture below for a reference.

Play 18

Step 5

Take the 4 –  5 1/2 in x wof border and sew one of the borders to the top of the quilt. Sew the next border to the bottom, and then add borders to the sides. Since you cut the borders with the width of fabric, you will have to trim the excess material. Trim up any excessive material and square off edges as needed.

Play 19

Step 6

You should have a quilt that looks like this:

Play 20

The Applique Process

Play 11

Step 7

The templates are available in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post. Or watch this video to learn how to make them on your own through Microsoft Office using Word.

Once I had my templates printed, I cut them out.

Play 21

Step 8

*The method that I used for my applique process was to take the 3/8 yd (or 1/4 yard if cut down from piecing in the backing) Bella Solid Brown fabric and a piece of scrap fabric, I then bonded the fabrics together with Heat N Bond Lite.  The reason why I went with this method is because I did not want to deal with the paper backing from the Heat N Bond lite. However, feel free to use whatever applique method you are comfortable with.

Take your cut templates and place them on the back of your bonded material. Make sure that the templates are facing backwards too.

Laugh

Step 9

Then take a pencil and trace around your templates. When you are done tracing your templates, you should have something that looks like this.

Laugh 2

Step 10

Cut out your applique words and letters. Once your appliques are cut out, you are ready to place them on the quilt top. I placed them on each corner just above the final square. I then hand stitched each applique onto the quilt top with a whipstitch. Use whatever hand stitch method you are most comfortable with. You can also opt for machine stitching with a blanket stitch or zigzag stitch.

Play 34

Step 12

Finishing off the quilt

I pieced my backing together with a 4 1/2 in x wof strip of fabric leftover from the Bella Solid Brown. I did it this way so I could sew in a label. I put the quilt together with the backing, batting, and my quilt top. I basted it together with safety pins.

Play 13

Lastly, I quilted this quilt on my own with my walking foot and a simple wave method. I also used a very thin batting to make machine quilting easier. The picture looks like a squiggly mess but this is how I quilted my quilt and it was very easy to do.

Play 35

After quilting, I added my binding to complete this quilt.

A lap size/play mat quilt measuring 40 in x 40 in.

love 2

Thanks so much for stopping by.

Take care all!

Play 33

Jennifer Overstreet
{Gable House Quilting and Designs}

Little Church Purse


Designed by www.seamsndreams.com. Other free patterns at www.speakingoffabric.blogspot.com.

6 layer cake (10″) squares–my sample was made from “Terrain.”
(2) 10″ squares of cotton batting
3/4-yard of 1-1 1/2″ ribbon
(2) 3/4″-wide pieces of hook and loop tape {cut 1″ in length}


buttons, yoyos, other embellishments or trims

All seams are ¼”. Press between each step. RSO=right side out. Use strong thread. (Test it by seeing if it breaks easily.)

For the center of the front and back of the purse, cut (2) 7 ¼” squares. For a fun touch {if possible}, fussy-cut the squares with a motif in the center, such as a flower.

For the triangles that frame the center square cut (4) 5 5/8” squares in half diagonally, yielding 8 triangles total. Sew 2 matching triangles to opposite sides of a center square.  Sew 2 matching triangles to the remaining sides. Or, if you prefer, use 4 different triangles around the center.

Cut (2) 10” squares of cotton batting. The 2 remaining layer cake squares will serve as the purse lining. Lay the batting on your sewing table. Place a lining square on top of it right side up. On top of that, place a pieced block right side down. Pin the stack so the edges are even. If the pieced block is slightly smaller than the batting and lining squares, trim them to match.
Beginning near the center of the lower edge, sew around the block through all layers. Leave a 5” opening for turning it right side out. Backstitch as you begin and end so that the stitching will hold when you’re turning the block.
Trim the corners almost to the seam line and turn the piece RSO. Press it, folding the opening to the inside ¼”. You don’t need to sew the opening closed yet. You’ve created one side of the purse. Now, repeat the above steps to create the other side. 

Sew a little square of hook and loop tape at the top center of the lining side of each.

Once the 2 pieces are complete, match the edges and pin them together RSO, with the gaps that you pressed under on the bottom edge. Topstitch a SCANT ¼” from the sides and lower edge of the purse through all layers. Backstitch as you begin and end. The lower edge gap should be caught (and closed) in this stitching.
Cut a piece of ribbon to measure 24” in length. Fold under ¼” at each end and topstitch. Place one end of the ribbon at a top corner of the purse, 1” down from the top, RSO, with the ribbon folded around the purse seam allowances. Sew through all layers from the lower edge of the ribbon to the top of the purse, and then sew it again or backstitch to make it secure. Repeat for the other corner of the purse with the other end of the ribbon, and your Little Church Purse is finished. (But who could resist adding an embellishment here or there?!)

Kara Schorstein
{SeamsNDreams}

Basics Charity Quilt Drive

Do you have a new or gently used quilt lying around that you aren’t sure what to do with? Or maybe you’re looking for an excuse to make another quilt? Well, we’ve got one for you! Victoria Findlay Wolfe, Pat Sloan, and the Moda Bake Shop are on a mission to gather 400 quilts for Basics Charity in New York City. You can read all about the Basics Charity details here and visit their flickr page for quilt donation images. We would be thrilled if you have a quilt or two to donate (any size is great).

Go see which quilts Pat and Victoria think would make great charity quilts from the Bake Shop!

The Moda Bake Shop team loves the following tutorials for charity quilts:

Hopscotch Pips:

Cartwheels Quilt:

Sugar Pop N Change Quilt

Quilts can be mailed to the following address by November 24th:


Basic Housing, Inc.
Attn: Robert Gonzalez / BBINC
540 East 180th Street
Bronx, NY 10457
*Please include your name, address, email, and the value of materials used.*

Jewels in the Curio




Look and see what is fresh from the oven, Jewels in the Curio from me, Jo, at Jo’s Country Junction. This 79 ” x 79″ quilt’s name comes from the fabric line, Curio, by Basic Grey, and the name of the quilt’s featured block, Jewel Box…put them together and we have Jewels in the Curio. The Curio fabric is wonderful…soft, subdued, and perfect for a gift when you know don’t what colors the recipient might like.


The quilt makes efficient use of a two charm packs, a jelly roll and yardage making very little waste. If you are new to quilting, the pattern may look difficult but honestly, this is do-able. The layout is what makes the quilt look harder than it actually is. To help make this project even more do-able, Kimberly over at the Fat Quarter Shop is sponsoring a giveaway on my blog to help get you started on purchasing the ingredients
…let’s get cooking.


(Normally I would insert a cute picture of all the fabric right here, but I was so excited when the fabric came that I immediately starting cutting into it.) Please forgive me but I am sure if you are a quilter you understand…when new fabric comes, I just have to touch it! Here’s a partial picture instead. Imagine the backing and background fabric and two charm packs totally intact… Aren’t the colors just wonderful!?!





Blocks, Scrappy Border and Binding:
One Jelly Roll and two Charm Packs

Background and Borders:
4.75 yards Moda Marbles Sweet Off White 9880 36

Backing:
5 yards Curio Cabriole Pond 30272 11

Batting 90″ x 90″


Start by cutting the background fabric. Cut 8~ 5″ strips. Subcut them into 64~ 5″ squares. Open up the charm packs and pick out 64 charms that you want to use in the quilt. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the backs of the charms squares.



Sew 1/4″ on each side of the line. Then cut on the line and there will be two half square triangles. Press to the colored triangle.

Trim the blocks to be 4.5″ square.
Keep the like colored blocks together.


Set the triangles aside.

From the background fabric cut 16~ 2.5″ strips. Sub cut them in to 64~ 11″ strips.

Open the jelly roll. Set aside the “whitish” strip. Select 32 pieces. Cut 2~ 11″ pieces from each strip for a total of 64 pieces. Cut 2~ 2.5″ squares from each strip. Set the squares aside for the scrappy border. Set the remaining strip piece aside for the scrappy binding.

From the remaining jelly roll strips cut a variety of 84 more 2.5″ squares for the scrappy border for a total of 148~ 2.5″ squares. The leftovers of the jelly roll strips will be sewn together for the binding.

Take a 11″ jelly roll piece and a 11″ background strip and sew them right sides together. Press to the colored piece.



Cut the piece into 4~ 2.5″ segments. There will be a little piece leftover. Discard it.



Lay the pieces right sides together, matching the seams and sew creating a four patch. Press. Keep the like four patches together. Sew all of the segments into four patches.


Take two matching half square triangles and two matching four patches. The triangles and four patches should not match. Lay them out as shown. Sew the pieces together to create a block. Make 64 blocks.


Lay the blocks out as shown in a 8 x 8 “barn raising” pattern. Sew together in rows. Then sew the rows together creating the center of the quilt.


From the background fabric, cut 8~ 4.5″ strips. Sew the pieces together. Cut two borders the length of the quilt. Sew them on. Press seam toward the border. Lay the quilt out. Cut two background strips the width of the quilt. Sew the pieces to the quilt. Press to the border. Here’s a close up of the borders so you can see how they come together.


Sew two rows of 36~ 2.5″ scrappy border squares together. Sew them to two opposite sides of the quilt. Press to the first border. Sew two rows of 38~ 2.5″ squares together. Sew them to the remaining two opposite sides of the quilt.

From the background fabric cut 8~ 2.5″ strips. Sew the strips together. Cut two borders the length of the quilt. Sew them on opposite sides. Press toward the background border. Lay the quilt out. Cut two background strips the width of the quilts. Sew the pieces to the quilt. Press to the border.

Cut the backing fabric in half. Sew together. Sandwich the backing, batting and quilt top. Quilt as desired.

Sew the remaining jelly roll pieces together to make a scrappy binding.


Bind.



79 ” x 79″ quilt

I love the scrappy binding…Here’s Gracie showing that binding off.


Leave a comment here and tell me what you think…then pop on over to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to sign up for you chance to enter the great giveaway sponsored by Fat Quarter Shop.



Jo Kramer
{Jo’s Country Junction}

Snug as a Bug Baby Quilt





Hello, it’s me… Melissa Corry.  I am so excited about this adorable baby quilt tutorial.  This easy quilt goes together super fast and throws a little wonky in with the stacked coins concept.  The applique is the perfect finish to just cute it up.  



Do you have a little bug in your life that needs the Snug as a Bug Quilt?  If so, just click on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has created an exclusive Snug as a Bug Quilt Kit  at a great discounted price!  Hurry, supplies are limited.



And of course, if you have any questions you can reach me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  And feel free to stop by my stomping grounds  www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com to see what I am up to. I love visitors. Happy Quilting!!!




QUILT TOP

2 Oops-a-Daisy Charm Packs by Keiki

1 1/4 Yards Bella Solid White
Heat N Bond cut into 5″ squares.
    
BINDING
   1/2 Yard of your choice of a Coordinating Binding Print – I used 32485-11 

BACKING
   1 1/4 Yard of your choice of Coordinating Backing Print -I used  32480-12  

STEP 1 – CUTTING


We will get started with cutting the sashing needed from our white yardage.  Layout your white yardage along your mat, aligning the folded edge along the 0 Horizontal line of your mat.  Align your ruler along the last line of your mat and trim a straight edge. Measure in 5″, align your ruler along the mark on the top and bottom of your mat and cut.  Without moving your fabric, slide your ruler over another 5″  and cut and continue repeating until you have four 5″ strips.  Set your remaining yardage aside.  Trim the selvage edge off of the top of the strips.  

Layout the remaining yardage the same as before (aligning your last cut edge along the straight edge of your mat).  Using the same method, cut 5 strips that are 1 1/2″ wide. Set your remaining yardage aside and don’t move your fabric strips.  Now we are going to subcut those 5 strips horizontally.  Align your ruler along the horizontal mat line at 16 1/2 inches. If you don’t have a 16 1/2″ line on your mat, line your 1/2 mark on your ruler with the 16″ line on your mat. This should make your ruler edge now at 16 1/2″. Cut across all 5 strips.  When unfolded you will have five 33″ x 1 1/2″ strips.   Now slide your ruler up the 21 1/2″ line and align as directed before and cut.  This will give you an additional ten 5″x1 1/2″ strips.  

Lastly, we need to cut a whole stack of 1 1/2″ x 5″ strips.  So for the last time, align your remaining white yardage along the side of your mat.  The amount of sashing will vary depending on the desired “wonkiness” but I found about 9 strips to be just right.  Cut 9 more 1 1/2″ strips and set the remaining yardage aside for scrap.  Now we need to subcut those 9 strips into 5″ pieces.  The easiest way to do this is to cut along the horizontal 21″ line.  This will give you a starting point and trim the selvage edge.  Now measure down 5″ to the 16″ horizontal line, align your ruler and cut.  Continue this process cutting every 5″ down to the 1″ line.  You should  now have an additional 64 1 1/2″ x 5″ strips.

Now that the sashing is done, we can move onto cutting up your charm pack.  Once again, the exact amount of pieces needed will vary depending on your wonkiness but I found 44 charms to be just about right.  I started by removing the doubles in my 2 charm packs and pulling aside any prints in particular that I wanted to use for applique.  Then I selected 37 random charms.

Now cutting the charms is the fun part.  There is no set measurement.  You can make it as wonky as you like.  I used measurements varying from 1 1/2″ down to 3 1/2″ down and everything in between. I didn’t want to go smaller than the sashing so that is why I stuck to those measurements but you can do what you like.   So just pick a size for that particular charm pack, measure down (or up, it really doesn’t matter) that said measurement and cut.  Switch it up within your charms so that you end up with a stack of completely different sized charms.  (*NOTE* I found while sewing that some of my charms ended up just being a stem or something that I didn’t necessarily like the look of… in those cases I would set that aside and just cut a new charm to replace it 🙂

And that is the entire cutting.  To review, you should have four 5″ x WOF Strips, five 1 1/2″ x 33″ strips, 74ish 1 1/2″ x 5″ strips, and 74ish 1 1/2″ to 3 1/2″ x 5″ charms.  Are you there?  Great, lets move on 🙂

STEP 2 – MAKING THE ROWS
Now that everything is cut, you are ready to start sewing.  Grab a cut charm piece and a white 1 1/2″ x 5″ sashing piece.  Align them right sides together along the top or bottom (either way works) .  You will want to watch here that if you have a directional print you are aligning them all the same direction.  So always add sashing on either the top or bottom 🙂   Sew a 1/4″ seam along your aligned edge.  

Just keep aligning your pieces and chain stitching them.   Meaning, don’t cut your threads between each pieced set, just keep feeding them through your machine until you have sewn all 74ish sets together.

Now you have a large pile of pieced sets.  Go ahead now and clip your threads between each pieced set.  You can press them now but it isn’t necessary.  I just finger press for a while 🙂

Now you are ready to start sewing your rows together.  You will be repeating the following process 6 times to make 6 rows.  (Or if you are confident, you can chain stitch 6 sets to make all 6 rows as once 🙂   Grab 2 pieced sets.  (try not to worry to much about what you grab, just keep it random 🙂   Align them as follows so that the white sashing is next to a charm print.  This is where I do a little finger pressing to make it easier to work with my pieces.

Lay the top pieced set onto the bottom pieced set with right sides together and then sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.

Finger press your seam open.  It should look like the bottom.  Now grab another pieced set, you are going to add this the same was as before.

Lay your pieced set onto your now sewn together pieced sets with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Now repeat, repeat, repeat 🙂

Continue adding pieced sets until your strip measures more than 33″ when laid out.  Make sure to pull it tight when you measure since you haven’t been pressing.

When you reach more than 33″ you are ready to press 🙂  I found it easiest to press my white edges out 🙂  Press as you are most comfortable 🙂

Now, just one more trim.  Align the edge of your strip along the 0 vertical line of your mat.  Now you are going to trim your strip down to 32″.  Make sure when trimming this that you are trimming through a charm block.  You want to have a charm strip, and not a sashing strip, at the top and bottom of your strip.  If you are going to be cutting through a sashing, trim the top a bit to adjust.  (If you didn’t chain stitch, repeat the process 5 more times so you have 6 rows total).

STEP 3 – SEWING THE ROWS TOGETHER


Grab your 6 pieced rows and your five 33″ sashings and lay them out as follows.  Play around with your row alignment until you have a look that is pleasing to the eye.

We will start with sewing the sashings onto the pieced rows.  Lay your 5 sashings onto the 5 rows to the left of the sashings.  No need to pin, you can just align as you go. Sew a 1/4″ seam down the aligned sides, trim the excess sashing and press.

Now that your sashings are attached you are ready to start sewing your rows together (this is just like piecing the rows but on a much larger scale).  Lay your first row onto your second row aligning the edge.  This time you will want to pin to make sure your tops and bottoms are aligned properly.   Sew a 1/4 seam along your pinned edge (and remember to remove pins as you sew. Press your seam.

Lay your third row onto your new sewn together first and second row. Pin to align the edges, sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge and press. Continue this process until you have sewn all of your rows together 🙂





STEP 4 – ADDING BORDERS


You will start with the top and bottom border.  As these are WOF they will be a little long but no worries.

Lay your top and borders onto the top and bottom of your quilt top and align the edges.  Once again, no need to pin, just align as you sew.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.

Now, using your quilt as a guide, trim the excess sashing.  (Make sure your quilt is completely flat when doing this so you get a nice straight edge).  Press your seams.

Add the side borders.  You will use the same method that you used to add the top and bottom border.

And your piecing is complete!!  Isn’t it just adorable?  Now onto making it super cute with some applique 🙂  (Note . . . If you are not a fan of applique you can skip the next step and finish your quilt top like this 🙂



STEP 5 – ADDING APPLIQUE


Grab the charms that you set aside earlier for applique.  Using the manufacture’s directions, iron a 5″ square of Heat N Bond to the wrong side of your charm square.  Now using the templates from the “Printer Friendly Version” of this tutorial, trace the desired applique onto the paper side of the Heat n Bond.  (Make sure to do the letters backwards, as you can see, I forgot that when I took this picture 🙂  Cut out the traced applique.  Repeat this process until you have cut out all of your applique pieces.

Play with the layout of your applique until you get a design you like.  This is my layout.  Once you have a layout you like, it is best to take a picture to refer to as you will be moving your quilt around to iron it and so will have to replace your applique.

I like to do one set of applique at a time.  This just keeps it from starting to come off when you are moving the fabric around so much in your machine while stitching it 🙂  I started with the letters.  I use my ruler as a guide to make sure that I am aligning them straight 🙂  Once again, using the manufacturer’s directions, press your applique to your quilt top fusing it to the top.

Stitch around your applique to secure it.  I choose to use brown thread for my applique and did a blanket stitch around the entire applique.

In the center details, I did a very close zig-zag stitch to give the details dimension.

Repeat this process until you have secured all of your applique 🙂  And your quilt top is done!!



STEP 6 – FINISHING YOUR QUILT


Now to finish, you just quilt and bind.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  But it is a great size to start on if you are doing free motion quilting for the first time.   I choose to quilt mine in an all over free motion daisy and loops design.  There are tons and tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting.  Just Google it and practice 🙂 . 

Cut your binding fabric into five 2 1/2″ strips to make your binding roll.  If you have never done a binding before there is a great tutorial here on how to bind {modabakeshop.com/2010/08/binding-with-jelly-roll.html}  

And you are done! I would love it if you went over to my Happy Quilting Tutorial’s Flickr page to upload your quilt.  I just can’t wait to see all of these adorable quilts and would love to feature your project on my blog some time 🙂



One super adorable 41 x 41 baby quilt ready to be loved by a little one in your life 🙂


Thank you to my adorable niece for being such a perfect little model and to her mom for helping me during the pictures 🙂

Melissa Corry
{happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}