Geese In The Park


Hello, my friends! It’s KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy bringing you another quilt tutorial!¬† I have so much fun putting these together for you. I hope you enjoy them just as much as I do! ūüôā

When I saw Kate Spain’s new line, Central Park, I knew I had to make a quilt with it. This line is themed around nature, so what better block to use than a flying geese block? I came up with a design using a unique placement of the flying geese to create a diamond effect, or if you’d rather, a zig zag effect.

Also, my good friend Leah over at Burgundy Buttons is offering this as a kit at a special price just for you!! Click HERE to get yours! Also, speaking of Kate Spain…you’ll never guess!! She has specially designed a quilt label just for this kit!!¬† {{insert me excitedly jumping up and down!!}} So, hurry on over before they are all gone!

Enjoy…. Geese In The Park

What you will need to get started:

1 Layer Cake – Central Park
1 Layer Cake – White
1 1/2 yards of (27070 14) for border & binding
1 1/4 yard (27065 14) for 2nd border
4 1/2 yards of (27066 14) for backing


**Please read through the entire tutorial before beginning.

**All seam allowances are 1/4″.

**Blocks will finish at 8″ x 4″. (8.5″ x 4.5″ unfinished)

Cutting:

1.¬† Choose 27 printed Layer Cake (LC) pieces.¬† We need to trim these to 9 1/4″ square.

2.¬† Using a ruler that is larger than your LC square, line up the top and right edge of your ruler with the top and right edge of the LC piece so that only about 1/8″ of the LC is showing. We just want to trim off the pinked edges.

3.  Trim the edges on the top and the right.

4.¬† Rotate your LC piece 180 degrees so that the top right corner is now at the bottom left corner. Your straight edges will now be on the left and bottom. Using your ruler, measure a square that is 9 1/4″.

5. Cut your 9 1/4″ square. Discard the scraps.

6.  Repeat steps 2-5 for each of the remaining 26 LC printed squares. Set these aside for now.

7.¬† Gather 27 of the white LC pieces. We need to trim these to yield four – 4 7/8″ squares per LC piece.
**Note: If you want to cut these from yardage, you will need 108 squares measuring 4 7/8″.

8.¬† Start by trimming the left edge of your LC. Trim just enough to cut off the pinked edges, creating a straight edge. Be careful not to trim too much or you won’t have enough fabric to cut 4 squares.¬†

**Note: I cut 3 LC pieces at a time to make this step go faster.

9.¬† Now measure over 4 7/8″ with your ruler and make your cut.

10. Carefully slide the right stack over about 1/4″. Using this newly cut edge, measure over 4 7/8″ and cut.

11.¬† Carefully rotate the stacks you just cut. We need to sub cut these into 4 7/8″ squares.

12. Trim the edge off again. Just enough to cut the pinked edge off. Not too much. We just want to establish a straight edge.

13. Measure over 4 7/8″ and cut.

14.¬† Carefully move the stack on the right over about 1/4″. Using this newly cut edge, measure over 4 7/8″ and cut.¬† Repeat for other strip.

15. Each LC piece will yield 4 squares measuring 4 7/8″. You will need a total of 108 of these squares.¬†

Making the blocks:
1.¬† For each printed LC piece, you will need 4 of the 4 7/8″ white squares. This combination will make 4 flying geese blocks.
2.¬† You will need to draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each of your squares measuring 4 7/8″.¬†

Place two of these on your 9 1/4″ printed LC square as shown below. Be sure to line up all your edges, and your drawn lines should meet.¬† Pin in place.

3.¬† Sew 1/4″ on both sides of your drawn line.

4.  Cut on that drawn line.

5.¬† Press to the white triangles. Yields two heart shaped thingies ūüôā

6.¬† Place another 4 7/8″ square on the end of each of these heart shaped thingies. Making sure the drawn line begins at the point of the printed LC and falls between the two triangles.¬† Pin in place.

7.¬† Sew 1/4″ on either side of the drawn line on each piece.

8.  Cut on drawn lines.

9.¬† Press to the white triangles. Yield 4 flying geese! ūüôā

10.¬† Something to watch when making flying geese like these. If you have a directional print, they are going to be a bit wonky. Personally I didn’t mind, but if you do, this is how they will turn out. (The trees are all in one direction on the print.)

11. Repeat steps 2-9 for the remaining 26 LC pieces.

12.  Chain piecing during steps 3 and 7 will make this process much much faster! 

13. Once you have all  your flying geese blocks made (you need 105 blocks but will have some extra using this method), arrange them 7 blocks by 15 blocks.

The block in the top left, the point of the “goose” should face down, the next block it will face up, and so on. The next row will be the opposite. Repeat for all 15 rows, arranging your blocks in a pleasing order.

14.  Once you have them arranged how you like, sew the blocks into rows, making sure to press each row in opposite directions so the seams will nest when you sew the rows together.

15.  Sew the rows together.

16.¬† Cut from the purple fabric, 8 strips measuring 2.5″ x WOF (width of fabric) for your first border. Attach in your preferred method.

17. From the border print, cut 8 strips measuring 4.5″ x WOF for your second border. Attach in your preferred method.

18. All that is left is for you to sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, and bind it. Oh, and don’t forget to throw it in the wash so it gets all smooshy! ūüėÄ

19.¬† If you want a completely different look, follow the same instructions, but where I use white, use a print, and where I use a print, use white. This will give you white diamonds and the zig zags will be in the prints. ūüôā

¬†This quilt will measure about 68″ x 72″ (before washing).¬† Isn’t it cute? ūüėÄ

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please oh please share it with me? You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE.¬† I would love to feature them on my blog! ūüôā

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{freckledwhimsy.com}

LOVE Bunting


Hi I’m Wendy, and I ramble often at Sewing in the Wendy City, right here in the heart of the Texas Panhandle. ¬†This is my FIRST Moda Bake Shop Tutorial, and I am over the moon about it!
I am an avid quilter, but I must admit that my favorite kind of projects are ones that involve not only beautiful fabric, but also can involve my children. ¬†I have a toddler and a preschooler, and we share a love of crafting together! ¬†This “recipe” was one of those fun projects, and I am thrilled to share it with you.
1 jelly roll of Pom Pom de Paris by French General
1/3 yard of any fabric in the line. I used the pink and brown bird print (#13572-16 )
1/3 yard of a solid color.  I used the ivory solid (#13529-70)
batting (a piece approximately 36″ x 36″ will work)
thread for piecing
thread for topstitching (I used red)
disappearing ink fabric marker
sewing machine with both a presser and a free-motion foot
chopstick for turning triangles
iron
acrylic paint (I used a mix of two pinks to match the fabric)
First, please cut your solid into an 8″ strip, selvedge to selvedge.

Then, let’s do some measuring. ¬†On one side, measure 3.5″ and make a mark. ¬†On the other side, measure 7″ and make a mark. ¬†These are the points for your first triangle. ¬† Then from each mark, measure off 7″. ¬†Cut as shown below. ¬†Leave the fabric folded so that you can cut all 8 triangles.

Here’s a cutting diagram (drawn with love by me):

Then, with much fear and trepidation, break into your lovely jelly roll.  Before cutting that rubber band, admire it one last time.

Choose 8 strips that will be the outer edges of your pennants.  I chose the pink tones.  See how nice they look with my backing fabric?
Take one of your triangles and one of your jelly roll strips.  Allow at least 2 inches extra of the strip on top of the triangle and at least 3 inches extra on the tip. Sew.

Press your seam under the jelly roll strip.

Then add a strip (of the same fabric) to the opposite side of the triangle.  (Now you can see why we needed the extra at the tip.)

And press it under the pink as well.
Repeat this process for all 8 triangles.

Grab your backing fabric and cut it into an 11.5″ strip. ¬†From one side, measure 5.5″ and mark. ¬†From the other side, measure 11″ and mark. ¬†Then measure 11″ from each mark.
Now we need some batting.  Stack your batting, then your pieced pennant front, then your backing fabric. The 2 fabrics should have their right sides together, as shown.  Pin.

 I pinned several and then cut them apart to sew.

Sew a 1.4″ seam on the 2 sides of the triangle with the jelly roll strips. ¬†Leave the top open.

Trim off any excess so that you only have 1/4″ excess beyond the seam.
Clip straight across at the tip of the triangle.  Be careful not to clip your stitches!

Use a chopstick or turning tool to turn the pennant.

Press your pennant so the edges stay nicely in place to be topstitched down.
Load your machine with your topstitching thread (I used a lovely shade of red!) and topstitch around the edges of your pennant.

I also stitched around the inner part to give it some definition…

 I then added some free-motion loopy quilting down the middle of the border just for fun.

Now, for the connecting piece!  Choose 3 strips.  I went with the reds this time so they would stand out.

Cut each piece into 4 strips, 10 inches wide.

Sew them together end-to-end, alternating your prints.

Two options here… ¬†You can press this long strip in half so that the pinked edges show, like this:

Or you can make double-fold binding…

And it will finish up looking like this:
Either way, press your long strip, and lay out your pennants.  When you have them in a pleasing order, pin them into the binding strip.
Beginning at the very end, start stitching and catch each pennant as you go.

When you get finished, you’ll have something that looks like this:

Now, to the decorating… if you want to:
First, find the cutest hands in your house. ¬†Here are the ones at my house. ¬†(Aren’t they darling?)

I wanted to match the pink in the pink prints, so I ended up mixing 2 paints to match it properly. ¬†If I’d had time to visit another store I might have been able to find an exact match… but you see those cute hands up there? ¬†Well, they were helping me shop!

Mix the paint in a bowl, and use a paper towel to blot paint onto cute hands.

Have them carefully put their prints on the pennants.  I did one pair on the far left, other pair on the far right.

On the 4 middle pennants, I added some small hearts.

And then I used a Disappearing Fabric Ink pen to write the letters L-O-V-E on those 4 middle pennants.  Photoshop and I worked together to show you what that step looks like:
Using your free-motion quilting foot, trace around the hands.  I went around each twice because I like the effect of the 2 imperfect lines.

Try to stop and start at the same place so it’s easier to pull the threads through to the back with a needle and tie them off.

I used my free-motion foot to trace the letters. I went over each letter 4 or 5 times.  I also traced the little hearts to give them more definition.

a fabulous Valentine’s Day bunting with special meaning… ¬†
that looks lovely across your mantel where all those little hands can admire their work.
You’ll have enough strips in 1 jelly roll to make 3 buntings with 8 pennants each. ¬†
Thanks so much for allowing me to post here. ¬†It’s a true honor.
And please stop by Sewing in the Wendy City anytime!
Wendy Poling

Sunkissed Laundry Basket Liner






Hi, I’m Anna from Thimbleanna.com and I’m here to show you how to make a liner for the cute Collapsible Laundry Basket from Moda Home.

It’s that time of the year when we spend a lot of time indoors trying to get organized. When I first saw Moda Home’s laundry basket, I knew I had to have one. And to spruce it up a bit, I thought I’d add an easy liner with a few of my favorite details — Sunkissed fabric by Sweetwater and grommets!

1 – Sunkissed Jelly Roll


2 – 24″ x 24″ coordinating pieces of fabric (ideally, these would also be Sunkissed, but I made my liner before Sunkissed yardage was available)


1 – 24″ x 24″ piece of quilt batting


1 – 74″ x 20″ piece of quilt batting


18 – 7/16″ grommets


1 1/3 yards of 1/8″ or 1/4″ ribbon


3 yards of decorative roping


1- Moda Home Collapsible Laundry Basket**


Constructing the Liner Sides

Begin by choosing 36 strips of fabric from your jelly roll (reserve two strips that you really like for the binding that goes around the outside of the basket — in my sample, the binding is the green plaid fabric). Arrange the fabrics in an order that is pleasing to you. Or stick them all in a bag and pull them out randomly — do you feel lucky?

Stitch the strips together on the long sides. You will now have one big piece of pieced fabric that measures approximately 72 1/2″ x 45″.

Press all the seams in one direction.

Cut the pieced fabric in half down the middle of the length of the fabric. You will now have two pieces of fabric that measure approximately 72 1/2″ x 22 1/2″.

Make a quilt sandwich: Place one piece of the pieced fabric right side down on the table. Place the 74″ x 20″ piece of batting on top of the pieced fabric. Then place the second piece of the pieced fabric right side up on top of the batting. Be sure to coordinate the strips of fabric on the top and bottom pieces of fabric. In other words, if there is a strip of pink fabric on the top, the same strip of pink fabric should be directly underneath it, on the underside of the batting.


Quilt the quilt sandwich as desired. I originally wanted to do 1/4″ quilting along the seams of each strip of fabric, but then I realized that the top and bottom of the fabric would have to be perfectly aligned, so I abandoned that idea. DO NOT quilt the two end strips of fabrics, e.g., if you numbered each strip of fabric from 1 to 36, you would not quilt strip 1 or strip 36.

Using a ruler, trim along one edge of the quilted fabric.

Fold the quilted fabric in half widthwise. You should now have strips 1 and 36 lying next to each other, right sides together. Peel back the outside layers of fabric and batting and pin strips 1 and 36 together.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned seam line.

Press the newly sewn seam to one side.

With the newly pressed seam still on the ironing board, lay the two batting pieces down over the seam, overlapping the edges. Take your scissors and cut through the batting, running the scissors along the top of the newly pressed seam.

Remove the cut edges of the batting. The two pieces of batting should now lie flat next to each other.

Take the strip of fabric that is farthest from you (strip 1) and press 1/4″ under, along the raw edge.

Fold the strip of fabric that is closest to you (we’ll call this strip 36) back down, so that it lies flat on top of the batting. Then, fold strip 1 back down, so that it is lying on top of strip 36. Pin along the edges.

Whipstitch strip 1 to strip 36 along the edges. Or, if you’re really confident in your machine quilting abilities (or allergic to hand stitching), skip this step and just leave the edge pinned.

Quilt those last two remaining strips. It’s a little tricky with all the excess fabric — just be sure to watch that all of the extra fabric has been pulled to the sides.

Your sides are now complete!

Preparing the Liner Bottom

Cut two large circles from the 24″ x 24″ pieces of coordinating fabric. You can do that one of two ways:

1) Make a pattern by tracing around a jumbo planter or lawn tractor tire or something that measures 22 1/2″ in diameter, or


2) Place the two 24″ x 24″ squares on top of each other. Fold the fabric in half and then fold in half again. You will now have a 12″ x 12″ square. Using a ruler, place the “0” mark of the ruler at the folded corner and pivot from one folded edge to the other, marking an arc that is 11 1/4″ long as you rotate the ruler.


Cut along the pencil line and then when you unfold the fabric, you will have 2 large circles of fabric.

Using one fabric circle as a pattern, cut a 22 1/2″ diameter circle out of the 24″ x 24″ piece of batting.

One fabric circle needs to be divided into 1/4ths. Fold the circle in half and place a pin at each edge of the fold. Unfold and fold in half again in the other direction, placing the two previously placed pins on top of each other. You should now have four evenly spaced pins along the outside edge of your circle.

Cut the 1 1/3 yard piece of ribbon into 4 equal pieces. Fold each piece in half and pin the folded edge of the ribbon to the right side of the fabric circle at the location of each pin.

Attaching the Liner Bottom to the Liner Sides

Pin the trimmed edge of the liner side all around the edge of the liner bottom that contains the ribbon pieces.

You should have 9 strips of fabric in between each ribbon that has been pinned to the liner bottom.

Place the batting circle on top (on the wrong side) of the liner bottom and pin along the edges.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam around the pinned circle’s edge, being careful not to catch any tucks in the fabric. Also, be careful not to catch the edges of the ribbon pieces in the seamline.

Now, place the batting edge of the circle flat on the table. Squish (technical term) the liner sides away from the edge of the circle, towards the middle.

Place the remaining fabric circle right side down, on top of the squished liner sides. Pin the edges of the top circle to the edges of the bottom circle.

Stitch another 1/4″ seam around the edge of the circle, leaving an opening that is approximately the length of 4 of the strips of fabric that are in the liner side piece.

When you are done stitching, reach your hand into the opening and pull everything right side out. It’s just like birthing a baby!

Pull the liner bottom circles away from the quilted liner sides and pin.

Press all the way around the liner circle, both inside and outside, along the pinned edge.

Stitch a 1/4″ seam along this newly pressed seam.

The Detailed Finish Work

Stand the liner up so it’s like a big bucket. This picture shows the liner inside out. You should fold it so the ribbons are on the outside of the bucket.

Slide one side of the liner up under your sewing machine foot, so that the bottom of the liner is under the sewing machine needle. Quilt the bottom of the liner as desired. I chose to do a little freemotion flower in the very center and then do a big spiral out to the edge.

Trim the top edge of the liner sides so that the height of the liner side measures 18″. Using the two jelly roll strips that you reserved for the binding, and your favorite binding method (if you don’t have one, Moda Bake Shop has one HERE), bind the edge of the liner sides.

Now it’s time to place the grommets. Using the instructions on the grommet package, place one grommet in every other fabric strip. I created a little template to mark where each grommet should be placed. I chose to place the lower edge of the grommet one inch above the inside edge of the binding. When placing your grommets, REMEMBER: the right side of the grommet should be placed on the inside edge of the liner. This is because when the liner is placed in the laundry basket, the inside edge will be folded over the top edge of the laundry basket. It will then become the outside edge of the laundry liner.

Tah-Dah! You’re ALL done sewing. Place your liner in the laundry basket, tie the ribbons to the bottom, and weave the cord through the grommets. I chose to keep the cord knot on the outside, but it would be just as cute to hide the cord edges under the liner sides.


1 collapsible laundry basket liner.

Now, sit back and enjoy!

XOXO,
Anna
{thimbleanna.com}

** Moda Home Collapsible Laundry Baskets can be found HERE or HERE.

Hugs and Kisses from the Park


Growing up, we visited Grandma and Grandpa each summer and the trip was always filled with lots of laughs and more importantly, lots of love. Our favorite to do was to play at the park across the street with Grandma and Grandpa. ¬†When I saw Kate Spain’s collection of¬†Central¬†Park I knew I wanted to design something inspired by my grandparents. ¬†Grandma and Grandpa¬†would always sign letters to me with XOXO. ¬†My mother explained that it meant hugs and kisses. ¬†I always cherished those little X’s (kisses) and O’s (hugs) from my grandparents. ¬†And that is how Hugs and Kisses was inspired.

Do you have someone you would like to send some Hugs and Kisses to a la Central Park style? Well then pop on over the Burgundy Buttons where Leah has made up a Hugs and Kisses Quilt Kit that includes a bonus!! ¬†Get this… the kit comes with a quilt label designed by KATE SPAIN herself!!! ¬†Isn’t that just awesome? ¬†Hurry over,¬†quantities¬†are limited.

1 Central Park by Kate Spain Jelly Roll
1 Moda Bella Solids White Jelly Roll
1 1/8 yards of Moda Bella Solids White  (or a second White Jelly Roll that you will use 16 strips out of)
1 1/4 yards backing for your Hugs and Kisses Citrus Quilt
1 1/4 yards backing for your Hugs and Kisses Berry Quilt

That’s right… that is all you need to make 2 Hugs and Kisses Quilts, one in Berry and one in Citrus ūüôā

Just a note before we start… if you have any questions about putting these quilts together, please feel free to contact me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com. ¬†And as always, you are welcome to come by my stomping grounds over at¬†Happy Quilting.

STEP 1 – CUTTING


Grab your Central Park Jelly Roll and open it up. ¬†Isn’t it fun to watch them unroll? ūüôā ¬†Now go ahead and divide the 40 strips into 2 piles of 20 strips each. ¬†Here are the strips for the Berry version.

Here are the strips for the Citrus version.

Lay 5 Р7 strips out horizontally along your cutting mat with the selvages over the 0 vertical line.  Trim your selvage edge off.

Without moving your strips, line your ruler up along the 26″ vertical line on your mat. ¬†Cut. Repeat with all 40 strips, making sure to keep them in two¬†separate¬†piles. ¬†(I like to do all of my cutting first, so I cut out the pieces for both quilts. ¬†If you want to do one at a time, cut 20 now and 20 later.)

You should now have 20 Citrus pieces and 20 Berry pieces that are 26″ long and 20 Citrus pieces and 20 Berry pieces that are 17″ long. ¬†Set the 17″ pieces aside. ¬†They will be used later for¬†appliqu√©¬†and binding.

Grab your Bella Solids White jelly roll and unroll it. ¬†This time lay your strips on your mat vertically, lining the folds up along the 0 Horizontal line on your mat. ¬†Cut along the 13″ horizontal line on your mat. ¬†(This gives you a 26″ piece when unfolded) ¬†Without moving the pieces, move your ruler up to the 21 1/2″ Horizontal line.

If your mat is like mine, you don’t have a 21 1/2″ line. ¬†So here is how to do it. ¬†Line your ruler up so that the first 1/2″ mark is aligned with the 21 inch line on your mat. ¬†Check to make sure it is aligned along that 1/2″ mark between your strips. ¬†And tada, your ruler is on 21 1/2″.

Cut across your strips, giving you two 8 1/2″ pieces per strip. ¬†Repeat with all 40 strips (or 20 if you are only doing one right now).

Lastly, Grab your White yardage and cut 16 strips 2 1/2″ x WOF to be used for sashing. ¬†Or just grab your second jelly roll and take 16 strips out of it. ¬†Set the rest aside for a future project. ¬† For both quilts you should have ¬†(40) 26″ strips, (80) 8 1/2″ strips, and (16) WOF strips. ¬†(If you are making one quilt, just have halve those numbers.)





STEP 2 – STRIP PIECING


***Starting here, the instructions will be for making one quilt (the Berry version).

Strip piecing is a great way to save a lot of time when quilting because you sew your strips together first, and then cut your squares. ¬†To start, take your first 26″ strip and a white 26″ strip. ¬†This is what it will look like:

Match up your pieces with right sides together. ¬†Sew a 1/4″ seam down the full¬†length¬†of your strip. ¬†Don’t worry about pinning, just line them up by hand and feed them through your machine. ¬†If you get to the bottom and your pieces aren’t perfectly even, no worries because I made allowances for that. ¬† Once you get to the bottom of the strip, simply feed the next set of strips through. ¬†Continue chain stitching all 20 strip sets.

You will now have a pile that looks like this.  Clip the threads between each strip set.

Press your strip sets to the print side. ¬†I prefer not to press my seams open when strip piecing; but feel free to press which ever way you are comfortable with. ¬†(I was at a hotel for this picture, so you don’t get to see my smiley face ironing board!)

Now that the strips are made, we can cut them into proper pieces. ¬†Lay your strips out horizontally along the mat. You can do 5 -7 at a time. Once again, I was at a hotel so I had my travel size mat and could only fit 2 ūüôā ¬†Trim a nice straight edge.

Measure over 2 1/2″ and cut. ¬†Continue this process all the way across your strip sets.

You should have 10 Two-Patch blocks out of each strip set and a little leftover scrap at the end.

Repeat this process with all 20 of your strip sets. ¬†You will need 192 Two-Patch blocks for this quilt, so go ahead and pull out 8 blocks and add them to your scraps. ¬†I just love scraps… mine are going to be mug rugs ūüôā


STEP 3 – SEWING X AND O BLOCKS


Now we are ready to start turning those 2 patch pieces into X and O blocks. ¬†We’ll start by making ¬† ¬† ¬† ¬†4-Patch blocks. ¬†Grab two 2-Patch pieces and lay them out like shown.

Lay your second piece on top of your first piece. ¬†Don’t spin it or anything, just flop it over. ¬†You know you have done this right if your white block is on top of a print block.¬†¬†Pin along the edge where you will be sewing your seam. ¬†When pinning, make sure to line up your center seam first. ¬†Your seams should “nest” together. ¬†Go ahead and pin all your 2 patch pieces ( 96 sets).

Stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge, making sure to remove pins as you sew. When you are finished with one piece, feed the next piece through. ¬†Continue chain stitching all 96 sets.

Clip the threads between pieces and press.

You should have 96 4-Patch blocks. ¬†Aren’t they fun?

Now we are going to sew the 4-Patch blocks together.  Lay 2 blocks out like so.

Lay your first block onto your second block (just flop it over).  You know you did it right if the white blocks are on top of white blocks and the print blocks are on top of print blocks.  Pin along the seam edge, taking care to line up your center seam first and then the sides.  Pin all 96 blocks into sets of 2 (making a total of 48 sets).

By now you are a master at the next few steps and don’t need pictures. ¬†Chain stitch your 1/4″ seam along all 48 pieces. ¬†Cut the threads between blocks and press. ¬†You will have 48 pieces that look like this.

There is where the blocks take the X and O shape.  There are two layouts for the next step.  You will be doing 12 blocks in the X layout and 12 blocks in the O layout.

Lay your top piece onto your bottom piece.  Once again, you know you have done it right if all of the print blocks are on top of print blocks and the white blocks on top of white blocks in both layouts.  Pin along your center seams (nesting your seams).

You know what is next ūüôā Chain stitch you 1/4″ seam, clip the threads between blocks, and press. ¬†Now your blocks are done.

Next, we are going to add a sashing to each block. ¬†Grab your 8 1/2″ white strips. ¬†It doesn’t matter what side you sew them onto.

Simply lay your piece on top of any side of your block and stitch 1/4″ seam. ¬†Continue chain stitching a sashing onto all 12 of your X blocks and all 12 of your O blocks. ¬†Clip the threads between blocks and press.



STEP 4  РSEWING ROWS TOGETHER


Now that your blocks are all done, you are ready to start putting your rows together.  This is the layout for your rows.  You will be making 6 rows.  First, we have to add one more sashing to the end of each row.

Lay a 8 1/2″ white strip along the edge of your last O block in the row. ¬†Stitch a 1/4″ seam and press. ¬†Repeat for all 6 rows.

So this is what it should look like now.

I like to start by laying my first block on my second block and my¬†third¬†block on my fourth block. ¬†Pin along the two seam edges. ¬†You don’t have any seams to worry about lining up now. ¬†Stitch a 1/4″ seam and press. ¬†Repeat for all 6 rows.

Now your rows should look like this. ¬†Only one thing left ūüôā

Lay your sewn together blocks one and two onto your sewn together blocks three and four. ¬† Pin along the edge and sew a 1/4″ seam. Press and repeat this process for all 6 rows.

Now your rows are complete.  Way to go!!!



STEP 5 – FINISHING THE QUILT TOP


It’s time to finish putting your top together. ¬†You will need 5 rows to make the top. Set the remaining one aside. ¬†It will be used in the pieced back. ¬†You will also need 6 of your white WOF strips. ¬†Lay your rows and sashing out as follows. ¬†You will be alternating your X and O rows. ¬†Once you have a layout, I find it easiest to take a picture so you have something to refer to when you start picking up your rows.

We will attach the sashing first. ¬†Lay your sashing strip along the top of your block. ¬†Note that your last row will have a sashing along the top and the bottom of your quilt. ¬†Pin sashings (or you can just line it up as you go if you feel comfortable with that). ¬†Stitch a 1/4″ seam (where the arrows point) and press. ¬†There will be a bit of excess at the end of each strip. ¬†Just trim it off.

So now you are here.  Finishing it is just like when you are sewing your rows together but on a bigger, longer scale.

Lay row one onto row two. ¬†Lay row four onto row 4 and pin, sew 1/4″ seam, and press. ¬†Then lay row three onto your now stitched together row one and two. ¬†Pin, sew 1/4″ seam and press. ¬†Lastly, lay your now sewn together rows four and five onto your now sewn together rows one, two, and three. ¬†Pin, sew 1/4″ seam and press.

Your top is now done!!! ¬†Yippee Skipee!! ¬†Time to move to the back ūüôā





STEP 6 – THE QUILT BACK ROW


Grab that row that you set aside and 2 more WOF white strips.  Layout just like you did the rows on the front.

Using the same instructions from the quilt top, attach the two sashing to the top and bottom of your row.

*Now, this next little bit is for applique. ¬†It is¬†completely¬†optional. ¬†If you love¬†appliqu√©, follow along, if you don’t like¬†appliqu√©, go ahead and skip down to Step 7

Pick your favorite 13 prints and cut one 2 1/2″ square out of each 13 prints. ¬†Add a 2 1/2′ square of ¬†Heat N Bond to each square.

Cut out the letters for “hugs and kisses”. ¬†I used my Slice machine to cut these. ¬†But you don’t have to have one. ¬†You can draw your letters or print them off the computer, whatever works best for you. ¬†You will want 2″ letters ūüôā ¬†I cut out both sets at once since I had everything pulled out. ¬†Aren’t they just adorable?

Take your applique letters and play with a layout along the bottom of your row. ¬† You don’t have to have your’s straight, that is just the way i liked it. ¬†Just remember to leave a 1/4″ along the bottom where you will piece it to the back. ¬†When you like your layout, press to set it.

Stitch around your¬†appliqu√©¬†letters. ¬†I choose to do a small zig zag in brown. ¬†You could do a zig-zag stitch, a¬†blanket¬†stitch, or even raw edge¬†appliqu√©. ¬†I am by no means an expert at this, but practice makes perfect ūüôā



STEP 7 – FINISHING THE QUILT BACK


Now your row for the back is all put together. ¬†We are going to add just a little extra so that we have some wiggle room when quilting. ¬†Grab 4 more 8 1/2″ strips. ¬†(there will be a few leftover that you can add to your scrap pile). ¬†Sew 2 sets of the strips together, edge to edge with a 1/4″ seam and press. ¬†Then go lay them onto the right and left of your row.

There will be extra on the top and bottom, so try to make sure that you line the center seam of your white sashing along the center strip of your block. ¬†This just gives it a nice finish look. ¬†Stitch your 1/4″ seam, press, and trim the top and bottom of your sashing to be even with your row.

Your row now looks like this.

You’re almost done. ¬†Grab your 1 1/4 yard print for the back. ¬†Unfold and refold it so that the selvage edges are together on the left and right sides of your piece rather than the top (this way your print will be vertical and not horizontal). ¬†Cut along the fold to make two pieces that measure 44 x 22 1/2″.

Grab your row and your two strip pieces and lay them out as follows.

Lay your row onto your bottom print piece. ¬†Your row will be slightly longer, just center it on top of the piece. ¬†Pin along the edge, stitch a 1/4″ seam and press. ¬†Repeat the same process for your top piece.

Trim your row pieces that are hanging out to match the sides of your quilt. ¬†Your backing is all done!!!! ¬†Don’t you just love it? ¬†I can’t get over how cute those little letters are!!



STEP 8 – PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER


Make your quilt sandwich, baste the sandwich, quilt, and bind.  I know, I make it sound so quick and easy.  If you are new to quilting, there are tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting, just Google it and practice (or just send it out to be quilted)!

Remember to grab your leftover pieces of jelly roll strips to make an adorable scrappy binding.  I just love scrappy bindings!!  If you have never made one before, there is a wonderful tutorial here for doing this.

And you are done!!  Way to go!

If you would like, please upload a picture of your finished quilt onto my Happy Quilting Tutorial’s Flickr page. ¬†I would love to see your finished projects!!


Two adorable Hugs and Kisses Quilts, measuring 39 x 48 each. ¬†One in a Citrus color way and one in a Berry color way. ¬†Go find two people you want to send some Hugs and Kisses to ūüôā

Melissa Corry

Doggie Do Bag



Hello…I’m Jo from Jo’s Country Junction. My beagle, Gracie, and I are here to share with you a pattern we put together for a Doggie Do Bag. You may wonder what a doggie do bag is…Well, Gracie needed to go to dog obedience class and the instructor required all owners to have plastic bags (to pick up any messes) and treats with us at all times. So I made this little bag to carry my keys, wallet, and all the necessities Gracie needed.


Don’t have a dog? Don’t worry. This cute little bag can be use for anything: makeup, a crayon case…whatever you like.



1 honey bun of Charlevoix
2 fat quarters
zipper
fusible fleece
Deco Bond
black thread


Mini ricrac
Black scrap of felt




From the fat quarter, cut two 7.5″ x 8″ pieces for the lining.

Cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece 7.5″ x 8″.

Fuse the fleece to the lining pieces.

Select 9-10 fabric strips from your honey bun. Layer two of the pieces right side together diagonally on the fusible fleece. Sew them diagonally onto the fleece, using a quilt as you go method.


Press open.

Continue adding pieces until the whole piece is covered.


Do this for both pieces.

Trim both pieces to 6.5″ x 7.5″. Set aside.




For the front pocket, take the other fat quarter and cut a 7.5″ x 8.5″ piece. Cut a piece of Deco Bond 7.5″ x 4.25″. Iron the fabric in half. Open up. Place the deco bond on the fabric. Fold over.


Position a piece of mini ricrac 1/2″ from the fold. Using matching thread, sew in place.

Using the dog pattern included in the Printer Friendly Version, cut a dog from the scrap of black felt. Cut a 1/4″ x 6″ strip of fabric from one of the fat quarters. Tie in a knot around the dog’s neck. Position the dog 1.25″ from the side and .75″ from the top of the right hand side of the pocket piece.


Sew in place using black thread.

Cut 4- 1.5″ x 2″ pieces of fabric from one of the fat quarters. Take two of the pieces and put them right sides facing. Slide the zipper pull down. Sandwich the zipper in the middle of the two pieces. Sew over the top using a 1/2″ seam. Press the fabric open. Trim to 3/4″.


Cut the zipper so it is 7.5″ long including the fabric piece. Take two of the fabric pieces and put them wrong sides facing.


Sandwich the opposite end of the zipper in the middle of two of the pieces. Sew over the top using a 1/2″ seam. Press the fabric open.

Trim to 3/4″.


Trim the sides so they are the same width as the zipper.


For the handle, cut 2- 12″ x 1.5″ pieces of fabric from the fat quarter. Cut one piece of Deco Bond 12″ x 1.5″.


Put the pieces right sides together and lay on top of the Deco Bond piece. Sew 1/4″ from each of the sides to make a tube. Turn right side out.



Pr
ess. Top stitch along both edges.

Lay the zipper along the 7.5″ side of the bag piece with the right side together. Stitch in place.

Layer the other bag piece along the other zipper side with right side together and stitch in place.
Press the seam away from the zipper. Top stitch along the zipper on both sides.


Lay the pocket along the edge of the bag piece. Pin in place. Baste in place.

Pin the handle in place just above the pocket matching the seams. Tack in place.

Open the zipper 3/4 of the way. Fold in half with right sides together. Sew around the edge, pivoting at the corners. Trim near the zipper and at the corners.


Fold the corners in as shown. Pin. Measure in 3/4″. Draw a line. Sew along the line.



Cut away excess.
Do this for both corners.



Turn right side out. Poke the corners out and your clutch is finished.






Your bag will be about 5.5″ x 7″…not including the handle. You can easily leave off or shorten the handle, depending on the intended purpose of your bag. I made my handle long so it could hook over my wrist when I was walking Gracie.

You will have plenty honey bun strips left over to make a few more bags.

I’d love to hear what you will use your “Doggie Do” bag for….and don’t forget to stop over and visit Gracie and me over at Jo’s Country Junction.


Jo Kramer
{Jo’s Country Junction}

It’s a Hoot Baby Quilt


Hi there! ¬†I’m Amy from Amy’s Creative Side and I have a quick baby quilt to share with you! ¬†If you need a bigger quilt, this could easily be adapted – just add an extra charm pack or jelly roll! ¬†I’m using a traditional block and showing you how you can easily make an adorable quilt, with just a touch of cutting. ¬†Enjoy~

It’s a Hoot Layer Cake

Pistachio 32378 17- 1/2 yd

Marshmallow 32370 15 – 2 yds

Bella white 9900 98 – 3/4yd

Select 12 layer cake squares to be trimmed down for blocks. ¬†Center any desired focal and trim to 8 1/2″

Select 13 layer cake squares to cut 2 1/2″ squares from. ¬†I used my Go! Cutter, to cut in one direction, then in the other. ¬†You need 8 squares from each layer cake.

From the solid white, cut 7 – 2 1/2″ strips, then crosscut into 52 – 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles.

Piece your blocks according to the layout.

Next add, white rectangles to the sides of your four-patch.  Press, then add the top and bottom, to complete the block.

With 25 blocks, you are ready to assemble your top!  Layout your quilt with the pieced blocks in the corners, and alternate with layer cake squares (as shown in my quilt).

Quilt and bind to finish!

It’s a Hoot Baby – or – one adorable baby quilt!! ¬†It measures 40″ square. ¬†Here’s the back so you can better see my quilting. ¬†I used my walking foot to add dimension around the pieced blocks, and diagonals to the non-pieced blocks.

Happy Quilting ~
Amy Ellis

Building Blocks Baby Quilt





33″ x 40″ Baby Quilt

Looking for a quick and easy baby quilt? This goes together in no time and uses just 20 Layer Cake squares. That means with some extra sashing and border fabric, you can make two! Know anyone having twins? I used “It’s A Hoot;” such a fun and colorful line.

Let me know if you make one! Visit me at: www.hyacinthquiltdesigns.blogspot.com

1 “It’s A Hoot Layer” Cake
5/8 yard Marshmallow 32376 18 for sashing
3/4 yard Turquoise 32375 26 for border and binding
1 1/2 yards for backing

Cutting:
Choose 20 of the 10″ Layer Cake squares for the blocks. Pair up the squares into 10 sets that look good together. In each set, one fabric will be the center square and the other will be the outside of the block and vice versa.
From each pair of 10″ squares, cut:
1 strip 2 3/4″; trim to 2 3/4″ x 6 1/2″
1 strip 3 1/2″; trim to one 2 3/4″ x 3 1/2″, one 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″, and one 1 1/4″ x 3 1/2″
1 strip 1 1/4″; trim to 1 1/4″ x 6 1/2″
Move the center square to the bottom and you’re ready for piecing!
From the Marshmallow for the sashing, cut 11 strips 1 1/2″.
  • Use 3 strips and cut 15 rectangles 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
  • Use 6 strips and cut 6 rectangles 1 1/2″ x 27 1/2″
  • Use 2 strips and cut 2 rectangles 1 1/2″ x 36 1/2″
From the Turquoise, cut 4 strips 2 1/2″ for the border and 4 strips 2 1/2″ for the binding.
Piecing the Quilt

1. Sew the 2 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ and the 1 1/4″ x 3 1/2″ pieces to the 3 1/2″ center square.
2. Sew the 2 3/4″ x 6 1/2″ and the 1 1/4″ x 6 1/2″ pieces to the top and bottom. Make a total of 20 blocks.
3. Layout the blocks in 5 rows of 4 blocks each. Refer to the finished quilt and turn the blocks so that the center square alternates its position between the lower right corner and the upper left corner. Sew 4 blocks together in rows with the 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ sashing strips in between.
4. Sew the rows together with the 1 1/2″ x 27 1/2″ sashing strips in between and on the top and bottom.
5. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 36 1/2″ strips to the sides.
6. Trim the 2 1/2″ Turquoise strips to length for the side borders and sew to the sides of the quilt. Repeat with the top and bottom borders.
7. Layer the quilt top with the batting and backing. If machine quilting is new to you, here’s a tip on creating a custom look with simple quilting. Use any simple quilting design, but change thread colors as you move to different colors in the quilt. I did a simple star motif in the center squares and stippled the entire remainder of the quilt, stopping to change thread color as I went. After quilting, bind with the 2 1/2″ Turquoise strips.

A simple baby quilt to snuggle under!

Cindy Lammon
{Hyacinth Quilt Design}