Auntie Tablecloth

Auntie Tablecloth

39″ X 39″
Designed by Vickie Eapen of Spun Sugar Quilts
My inspiration for this tablecloth came from memories of my aunts. Recently two of my aunts have been severely ill and suffered through strokes and lung disease. I prayed much during the piecing of this quilt. I prayed for them and their recovery. I share this Moda Bake Shop project with you to inspire you to “piece” your way through a troubling time. Sewing, quilting, knitting, and creating help me find clarity and peace. I hope it will for you as well.
p.s. I have to shout out to my new friend Daniela….and her cozy quilters!
1 Layer Cake (sku#13540LC Lumiere de Noel)
1 yard inner setting strips, outer corner squares and binding (sku#13529 44 Lumiere de Noel)
1/4 yard inner corner squares (sku #13524 41 Lumiere de Noel)
1/3 yard outer setting strips (sku #13524 44 Lumiere de Noel)
2 yards setting triangles and backing (sku #13541 12 Lumiere de Noel)
Batting, measuring at least 45″ X 45″
Choose at least 12 prints from the layer cake:
3 dark red prints for the centers and 9 light prints for rest of pieced blocks
Subcut each of the 9 light prints into a 4″ x 10″ and 2.5″ x 10″ strip. “Scrap” the rest.
Subcut the 2.5″ x 10″ strip into {4} 2.5″ squares A.
Subcut the 4″strip into {4} 2.5″ x 4″ rectangles B.
Next cut {9} 4″ squares from your darker red prints for the centers. View C, not shown.
Notice I used 2 lighter center prints to give a scrappier look. 
Using a design wall, arrange your blocks. The block layout is as follows:
Sort the blocks in order and stack them for sewing.
Flip the left sidepieces onto the center as shown. Sew it now or flip the right side to the center as well. Then sew both sides for speedier piecing. Choose which method you are comfortable with.
I prefer to chain piece my blocks.
Complete the piecing and rearrange blocks on the design wall. Sew blocks together like a giant 9 patch. This becomes your center.
The first border includes {4} 1.75″ white squares and {4} 1.75″ x 23″ red strips.
Sew the side red strips to two sides of the center.
Sew the 1.75″ squares to the ends of the other 2 red border strips. Then sew strips to the top and bottom of the center. The square should measure about 25.5″.
Cut 2 squares 18.5″ x 18.5″. Cut in half on the diagonal as shown.
Sew half square triangles to the opposite sides of the center.
Repeat with remaining sides as shown. This square should measure approximately 36.5″.
Cut {4} 2″ x Width of Fabric strips. Subcut that into 2″ x 36.5″ strips.
Cut {4} 2nd border squares measuring 2″.
Add the second border strips to the sides.
Add the 2″ squares to the 2nd border and sew to the top and bottom. Your quilt top should measure approximately 39″ square.
Quilt and bind as desired.
The Auntie Tablecloth
39″ x 39″
***Please do not hesitate to email me or leave a comment if you have any questions on this project.***
Happy Quilting,

Garden Stars and Stripes

For celebrations rich in history and tradition, such as the occasion of our nation’s independence, a classic design is called for.  In this quilt, Americana meets French General, to add a touch of patriotic to your wall or table.  A tribute to Liberty with French styling… I think I’ve seen that before…

Because I made two versions of this runner, and because this is Memorial Day weekend, and because this quilt is made to celebrate independence, I am auctioning one of these runners off, and giving all the proceeds to Operation Family Fund.  This organization is in place to help the families of wounded or killed soldiers.  Please visit my blog, traceyjay quilts, for more information, and join me in remembering and appreciating the sacrifices made for freedom.   I’m also hosting a sponsored giveaway for a Rural Jardin layer cake… so come on over!

I hope you enjoy Garden Stars and Stripes.

1 Rural Jardin Layer Cake

1/2 yard Chanvre and Blue Juniperis (13539-11)
1/2 yard Chanvre and Red Juniperis (13539-12)

Inner border:
Option 1:
1/4 yard Rouge Juniperis (13539-25)

Option 2:
Leftover background fabric

Outer borders:
Option 1: 10 Layer cake squares (you will not use all of them for the blocks)
Option 2: 2 1/2 yards of woven stripe (12553-39 featured)

Option 1:
2 1/2 yards of your choice (12531-12 featured)

Option 2: Remaining woven stripe yardage.

1/2 to 1 yard of woven fabric (I did mine as continuous binding and only needed 1/2 yard. If you want to do bias binding, you might be happier with 1 yard).

Option 2 is on the left; Option 1 is on the right:

*All seam allowances are 1/4″
*WOF = width of fabric


For background pieces:
Blue Juniperis:
Cut one 3 1/2″ x WOF strip; Sub-cut in to eight 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares (as pictured below)
Cut one 5″ x WOF strip; sub-cut in to four 5″ squares
Sub-cut the 5″ squares diagonally to yield 8 half-square triangles (HST)

(The remainder of this fabric will be used for an inner border in Option 2.)
Red Juniperis:
Cut two 3 1/2″ x WOF strips; sub-cut in to sixteen 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ squares
Cut one 5″ x WOF strip; sub-cut in to eight 5″ squares
Sub-cut the 5″ squares diagonally to yield sixteen half-square triangles (HST)


Choose 4 layer-cake squares for each block (4 Bleu Clair, 4 Woad Blue, 4 Rouge).

Cut each block in to two 3 1/2″ x 10″ strips.  You will have a 3″ strip leftover –save it — this will be used for the pieced border of Option 1.

(We’ll cut borders later.  I never cut my borders until my blocks are ready for them.)

Constructing the star blocks:

On the wrong side of your 3 1/2″ square background pieces, draw a diagonal line.

Sew on the line, starting in the top-left corner for 4 of the strips, and the top right corner for 4 of the strips.

You then need to trim this rectangle.  Cut 1/4″ away from the seam you just stitched on one side, and then cut 3 1/2″ away from the edge you just cut.  See picture below.  Before you press the seam open, you should have the shape of a parallelogram (more specifically, you will have a rhombus; most would call it a diamond).

For Option 1 — Save and set aside the triangles of background and colored fabric you cut from the top portion.


Press seams open.  You now have your eight star segments.

Arrange them into a star, in a layout that pleases you. 

To add the corner background pieces, take the triangles you cut from the 5″ squares and line them up in the blank spaces of the star.  When you place them right sides together, you will notice there is a 1/4″ overlap (see arrow below).  This is important to have so that when you open the seam, the hypotenuse (long edge) of the triangle you just added lines up with the inner edge of the star segment.

This is how the overlap looks before sewing:
Join those two segments together to form one quadrant of your square.  

Join your bottom and top quadrants to form halves, and your halves to make a whole.

Your block should measure very close to 15″ square at this point.

The star blocks are constructed the same for both options.  Make one in Woad Blue, Clair Bleu, and Rouge.  

*A note about seams:*

This is a bulky block (as far as seams go) with many pieces cut on the bias (bias tends to stretch).  After trying various methods, I found pressing my seams open created the least amount of bulk, and helped the block lie flattest.  I also had a hard time getting a system that would allow all the seams to nest…I found they would nest for one set of seams, and then be both going the same direction for another.  To avoid bulk, a poochy block, trouble nesting, and having dark red under white background, I pressed my seams open.  But do what you’d like.

Pieced Borders – Option 1:

I had a difficult time figuring out what to do with borders for this quilt (thus the two options), but after receiving my Schnibbles Times Two (from Miss Rosie’s Quilt Co.), and seeing those leftover pieces from preparing my star blocks, the answer for a pieced border became obvious.


Cut four 2 1/4″ x WOF strips from Rouge Juniperis.
Sub-cut in to ten 2 1/4″ x 15″ sashing pieces.

Sew on vertical sides of star blocks and join the three blocks together.  Your row will be sashing, block, sashing, block, sashing, block, sashing.

Hourglass Cornerstones:

Sew leftover triangle pieces (from star blocks) together.  Press seams open.  

Line up these squares so that the dark and lights are opposite one another, and draw a diagonal line from the unsewn corner to the opposite unsewn corner.

Sew 1/4″ away on both sides of drawn line. Cut drawn line to form two mini hourglass blocks.

Make as many as you’d like with your leftovers, but you only need eight.  I used the blues for my cornerstones, in order to contrast with the sashing.

Trim to 2 1/4″ squares (cutting a little from each side, to keep the design centered).

Attach a mini hourglass block to a 15″ sashing piece. 


I was careful to measure each segment as I went, making small adjustments as necessary, to ensure that the cornerstones lined up with my vertical sashing pieces (as shown).  Sew to top and bottom of star blocks, pinning at intersections.

Pieced Border:

Choose 6 contrasting layer cake pieces, and sub-cut in to three 3″ x 10″ rectangles.  Add these rectangles to the 12 strips leftover from creating the star blocks.  Choose blocks that create a nice variety of strips.

Choose one layer cake square, and cut it into four 5″ squares for the corners.
You may also need a small scrap, to help line up sides (I did).  

Your star section with sashing should measure about 50″ x 20″
For the sides, use 7 strips and sew them together.  Add a scrap or adjust seam allowances as necessary to make the edge fit.  

Cut these strips in half to form two border sections.  
Attach to sides of quilt.

For the top and bottom borders, begin and end each section of border with a 5″ square corner piece.  You will then need 20 strips to create the top and bottom sections. My quilt did not need a scrap or any adjustment of seam allowances, but make sure you measure your actual top to see if this number of strips fits.
Cut in half (as you did with side sections) and sew to top and bottom of quilt.  

Option 1 Quilt top is complete!

Option 2:

*Note about pre-washing:*

I normally never pre-wash; however, you may want to pre-wash the woven.  It seemed to shrink more than the other fabrics… not a problem if you like your quilts very crinkly, like I do.

Cut six 1 1/2″ x WOF strips from Chanvre and Blue Juniperis background yardage.  

From these strips, you will need to cut and create:
Two 60″ strips (it’s OK if you use a scrap at the end; it will be cut off)
Two 30″ strips
Two 15″ strips

Use the two 1 1/2″ x 15″ strips to use as sashing strips between your star blocks, and sew your three blocks together.  Do not sew sashing strips to the outside edges.  At this point, your row will be block, strip, block, strip, block.  The measurement of your quilt top thus far should be about 15″ x 47″.  

Fold your 2 1/2 yards of woven stripes so that you will be able to cut it along the selvage edge.  Cut 7″ (but no more) from the both selvage edges (I trimmed the selvages after I made the main cut, leaving 6 1/2″ of border fabric.)  The remaining fabric will be just the right size for backing.

You should now have two 90″ x 6 1/2″ border lengths.  Sub-cut them in to two 30″ lengths, and two 60″ lengths.  
We will be creating multiple mitered borders.  Julie, of jaybird quilts, has a great tutorial here.  I’ll add just a few notes and images below for those unfamiliar with the technique.  
Attach the white inner border to the woven border strips.  

(* Note: With this cutting method, it is theoretical to be able to get all your corner stripes to line up; if you desire this effect — I have done this on one corner of the quilt– then check that you are sewing the white border to the same edge for all the panels.)
A few things to keep in mind while creating mitered borders:
  • Press the side border seams towards the outer border, and the long border seams out towards the inner border.  This allows the seams to nest.  
  • Don’t forget to start and stop your seams 1/4″ from the edge of the star blocks.
  • Here’s what the over-lap will look like.
When you fold the corner down, fold along the diagonally angled seam in your star block. Draw your stitching line from this seam, not the edge of the fabric.
    Here’s a close up:
      Julie’s tutorial is great if you need any more instruction than this. 

      Your quilt top is finished! I angled my quilting lines, kind of like a braid.  Taping and drawing guidelines really helped.
      Label, Layer, Baste, Quilt, Bind, Wash, Dry, Admire, Celebrate.

      A Patriotic table or wall quilt classy enough to leave up after the Fireworks.  Measures approximately 56″ x 26″ all crinkled up.

      Don’t forget about our Quilt Auction to benefit families of soldiers … or our layer cake giveaway! (And I’d love to hear  read what you think of Garden Stars and Stripes.)


      Tracey Jacobsen

      Christmas Wreath Wall Hanging

      Two sisters whom help us out a great deal at The Calico Horse designed this pattern. They love working with Moda Charms and are always creating new and fun designs. The sisters had such fun with this wreath we wanted to share it. This is the first time our shop The Calico Horse has been on Moda Bake Shop and we feel quite honored.

      2 charm packs of Makin” New Friends by Moda
      1/3 yard for binding
      3/4 yard for backing

      Rotary Cutter, and Ruler

      Separate charms into 3 piles: blues and greens, reds, and lights.

      Cut 27 light charms into 108 – 2″ squares

      Cut 33 blue and green charms into a total of 132 – 2″ squares.

      Choose 2 red charms for bow and trim into 3 1/2″ squares.

      Choose 4 red charms for corners and trim into 3 1/2″ squares.

      Cut remaining red charms into 14 – 2″ squares.

      To make bow choose two light 2″ squares and two dark 2″ squares and trim them down to 1 1/2″ squares.

      Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each. Place 1 1/2″ blocks on 3 1/2″ red square as shown and sew on diagonal line. Press to corner and trim back to 1/4″ seam allowance.

      Piece quilt as shown in diagram. Quilt and bind using your favorite method.

      Finished Size 24 X 24, Perfect Christmas Wall Hanging

      The Calico Horse Shop
      The Calico Horse Blog

      Garden Charm Table Runner

      by Marlene Biles/ Sipiweske Quilts

      My first Bake Shop recipe!!! I am so thrilled to have the opportunity to share one of my ideas with you for using those adorable little 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ Bake Shop Sampler charm squares. If you are like me, you’ve had that gorgeous box safely tucked away on a shelf so that you could admire it from afar . . . but this thing just need to be used!

      So go grab up your sampler box and choose a little charmer pack or any assortment of 2 1/2″ squares that you have laying around and let’s get started . . .

      *Yardage is based on 42 inch wide fabric

      • 40, 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch Garden Party Bake Shop Sampler squares
      • 5/8 yard Bella Solid in Natural for background fabric
      • 1/2 yard of backing fabric
      • 1/4 yard of binding fabric
      • small amounts of lightweight fusible web
      • thread to match applique
      • 16 x 39 inch quilt batting
      • 6 medium/large buttons
      • 6 mini buttons

      Block Cutting and Assembly

      From the background fabric cut the following:

      Cut 1, 2 1/2 x 42 inch strip

      • Sub-cut into 9, 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch squares – set three of these aside for block centers
      • Using the 6 remaining 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch squares, cut once diagonally across the blocks to create 12 corner triangles.

      Cut 1, 4 1/8 x 42 inch strip

      • Sub-cut into: 6, 4 1/8 x 4 1/8 inch squares
      • Cut twice on the diagonal to create 24 side triangles

      Now it’s time to break open that little charm pack and choose 4, 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch squares for the appliqued flowers – set aside.

      Using the remaining 36 squares and all of your cut background pieces – lay out 3 blocks as shown above.

      Using a 1/4 seam, stitch the rows together and then add the corner triangles. Square up the blocks to measure 9 x 9 inches.

      Quilt Cutting and Assembly

      From the background fabric:

      • Cut 1, 14 x 42 inch strip
      • Sub-cut into 1, 14 x 14 inch square and cut twice on the diagonal to create 4 side triangles

      From the remaining 14 x 28 inch strip, cut a 7 1/4 inch strip and then sub-cut it into 2, 7 1/4 x 7 1/4 inch squares and cut once on the diagonal to create the four corner triangles.

      Lay out the quilt as shown above.

      Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance, stitch the diagonal rows together and then add the corner triangles.

      Straighten the sides of your table runner as shown above ensuring that you retain your 1/4 inch seam allowance.

      Applique Instructions

      Cut 4 pieces of fusible web 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inches.

      Position the fusible web squares (paper side up) over the Template and trace. (Please note: once you open the document do not click on the “print” button – the pattern will be HUGE. Click on the “download” button and make sure that “pdf” is selected – click download and then open. The view may be set at 247% . . . just change that to 100% or even click print and it should be fine. The little pattern template should measure 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 inches – the exact same size as your mini charms.)

      Position the fusible squares onto the backs of the four squares you previously set aside and fuse in place.

      Cut out each shape on the drawn lines.

      Measure 3 inches out from the point where two blocks intersect and fuse a circle print.

      Thread your machine with a thread in a shade slightly darker than the fabric you are stitching. Match your bobbin thread with your background fabric.

      Set your machine to a small blanket stitch and stitch around the circles.

      Position the petals on top of the stitched circles ensuring that the petals are close enough together in the center so that they will be covered by the large button you have chosen. Fuse in place and blanket stitch around each petal.

      Button – time!

      I used buttons in the center of the top and bottom blocks and left the center block without a button. This is where I will place a plant pot or bowl and I want to ensure that whatever is put there will sit flat.

      Knot your thread and come up from the back of the quilt top through one of the holes on the large button.

      Drop one of the mini buttons onto the needle and go down through the other hole and through the large button hole as well. Repeat and tie off.


      Layer your quilt top, batting and backing using your favorite basting method. If you want to round your corners, use an old CD and pencil to mark a curve.

      Machine quilt with a meandering pattern or a design of your choice. Be sure to avoid the buttons as you come to them. Trim the corners on the drawn lines to create a gentle curve.


      Cut 3, 2 1/4 x 42 inch strips and stitch together end to end to create a continuous binding strip. Press seams.

      Fold strip in half lengthwise and press.

      With raw edges aligned, stitch to the right side of the quilt using a 1/4 inch seam, mitering corners as you come to them (for square corners) or easing the binding around the curves. Clip curved edges and hand stitch binding to the backing fabric making sure to cover all machine stitching.

      One super cute 13 x 37 1/2 inch table runner.

      I’m using mine on my patio table for the summer and love how it brightens up the deck. This project would look awesome in just about any fabric line . . . just imagine a Halloween or Christmas print with little pumpkins or presents in place of the flower appliques – the sky really is the limit!

      If you have any questions or comments I’d love to hear from you.
      Happy sewing!

      Marlene Biles

      iPad sleeve three ways

      iPad Sleeve
      Are you an “early adopter”? One of the first to own a new Apple iPad? Be the envy of your friends not only for having the coveted device, but for having the coolest carrying case on the block. This tutorial contains three variations on the pattern to allow you to choose the one that best suits your style. These iPad sleeves use the new Moda Snuggle fabric to create an inner lining that is both soft and protective.


      • 1 jelly roll. I used “Odyssea” by MoMo.
      • 1 jelly roll of Bella Solids, or a cut of a coordinating solid print. Measurements for each sleeve variation are below.
      • For each, a 18.5″ x 11.5″ piece of a coordinating Moda Snuggle fabric. (A 1/3 yard cut will yield 2 pieces.)
      • For each, a 20″ x 12″ scrap piece of quilt batting.

      • Coordinating ribbons, buttons, or other embellishments.
      Version A – Simple strips:

      iPad sleeve A

      1. Create the sleeve exterior:

      • Select 4 jelly roll strips and cut each down to 20″ (x 2.5″ wide).
      • Cut 4 strips of your coordinating solid 20″ x 1.5″ wide.
      • Sew your strips together, alternating your prints and your solids. Start with a solid strip at the top and end with a printed strip at the bottom. Orient any directional prints accordingly. You should end up with a pieced sleeve exterior measuring approximately 20″ x 12.5″. Trim down to 20″ x 12″.
      • Baste the sleeve exterior to the batting. I like to use a thin layer of spray baste for a small project such as this.
      • Quilt as desired. I free-motion quilted an all-over meandering pattern. Straight-line quilting patterns, such as stitch in the ditch or outline quilting, would work nicely here too.
      • Now is a good time to embellish the front of your sleeve as you’d like. Topstitching a coordinating piece of ribbon from side to side would look nice. So would a small collection of vintage buttons, or an appliqued design, monogram, or initial. Don’t be afraid to personalize your design.
      • Trim your quilted piece down to 18.5″ wide x 11.5″ tall.

      2. Assemble the sleeve:

      • Fold your quilted exterior sleeve piece in half along the 18.5″ side with right sides together. Your folded piece should measure approximately 9.25″ wide x 11.5″ tall.
      • Remember which opening is your top opening, and stitch the side and bottom openings closed with a single seam. With your fold on the left, starting at the top right stitch down the right side and across the bottom. Use a backstitch at the start and end of your seam, and pin first if you find that to be helpful. Leave the top open.
      • Repeat this step with your lining piece. Remember to fold it with right sides together and leave the top open. You should now have two pouch-like pieces that are closed on three sides and open on the top.
      • Turn your lining piece inside out so that the Snuggle fabric is on the outside. Place your lining inside of the exterior pouch and push in the corners until it fits snugly. Your exterior strip piece and Snuggle fabric should be facing each other on the inside of the pouch, with your batting later on the outside of the pouch. I alternated the side seams so that the seam of exterior layer was on the right side and the seam of the lining layer was on the left side.
      • Line up and pin your interior and exterior layers together around the top.
      • Stitch the pieces together around the opening, leaving about a 4″ hole between the start and end of your seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam.

      3. Finish your iPad sleeve:

      • Pull the interior and exterior portions of the sleeve through the 4″ opening that you left open at the top of the sleeve. Push out all corners, smooth out your sleeve, and press as needed.
      • With a coordinating thread, topstitch (or use a decorative stitch) around the top edge of the sleeve to sew the opening closed.
      • OPTIONAL: for a more finished look, select another jelly roll strip and bind the top of the sleeve as you would bind a quilt. You can also tuck the ends of two pieces of ribbon underneath opposite sides of your binding to create a nice tie for securing your iPad in the sleeve.
      Version B – Pretty pleats:

      iPad sleeve 2
      1. Create the sleeve exterior:

      • Select 6 printed jelly roll strips and cut each down to 20″ (x 2.5″ wide).
      • Press each strip in half with wrong sides together so that each measures 20″ x 1.25″.
      • Select 6 of your solid jelly roll strips (or cut 6 strips of your coordinating solid 20″ x 2.5″ wide).
      • Layer a folded jelly roll strip between 2 solid strips, aligning all of the raw edges.
      • Sew all layers together. Press open. You will see that the folded strip is now layered in the seam of the solid strips.
      • With your pleat facing downward, line up the raw edges of another folded strip to the top raw edge and layer another solid strip on top. Sew all the layers together and press open, with the pleat facing the same was as the first one. You can see how you are now creating the exterior of the sleeve to have pretty little pleats for added texture.
      • Continue piecing the strips together in this manner until you have a piece measuring approximately 20″ x 12.5″. (For the final layer, which should be a folded jelly roll strip, simply baste it to the top-most solid strip using about an 1/8″ seam.
      • Baste the sleeve exterior to the batting. I like to use a thin layer of spray baste for a small project such as this.
      • Quilt as desired. I quilted in straight lines by stitching in the ditch 1/4″ from each seam. This technique, or stitching in the ditch, will help your pleats to lay flat.
      • Trim your quilted piece down to 18.5″ wide x 11.5″ tall.
      Follow steps 2 and 3 (assembling and finishing your sleeve) above.
      Version C – Dynamic diagonals:

      iPad sleeve 3
      1. Create the sleeve exterior:

      • Start with your 20″ x 12″ piece of quilt batting. This will serve as a template for the exterior of your quilt sleeve.
      • Using the batting as a guide, begin cutting and laying out jelly roll strips in an eye-pleasing diagonal layout, making sure the strips have some overhang on either side of the batting template. Once you have your design and your strips are cut, move them to the side.
      • Beginning at the bottom left corner, place your first diagonal strip on the batting and then the second strip on top of it, right sides together. Move your piece of batting to the machine and stitch all three layers together. Press the strips open. You can now see how you will be assembling the exterior of the sleeve, strip by strip, directly to the batting.
      • Once you have sewn all strips to the batting, trim the overhanging pieces from the sides. You can use your batting as your guide, keeping in intact at 20″ x 12″.
      • Quilt as desired. I used a decorative stitch along each seam. Straight-line quilting (such as outline stitching or stitching in the ditch) would work nicely here, as would an all-over quilting pattern or free-motion meandering pattern.
      • Now is a good time to embellish the front of your sleeve as you’d like. Topstitching a coordinating piece of ribbon from side to side would look nice. So would a small collection of vintage buttons, or an appliqued design, monogram, or initial. Don’t be afraid to personalize your design.
      • Trim your quilted piece down to 18.5″ wide x 11.5″ tall.
      Follow steps 2 and 3 (assembling and finishing your sleeve) above.
      • A stylish new sleeve to protect your iPad and carry it in style!

      Feel free to “hack” this tutorial to (as Randy Jackson would say) “make it your own, dawg”. Want to add straps, flaps, snaps, or other fasteners? I’d love to see it! Be sure to post your finished iPad sleeves in the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group.

      iPad sleeve

      John Adams
      Quilt Dad

      Frolic’n Butterflies Quilt

      Finished Size: 38 1/2″ x 46 1/2″

      Hello and Happy Spring. I’m Julie Geiger, owner of Prairie Point Junction Quilt Shop in Cozad, Nebraska. I’ve been dreaming of a little butterfly quilt for awhile now. When I saw the Frolic line of fabrics – I knew the time had come to hit the drawing board.

      I had a great team of gals from the shop that helped me get this project up and fly’n this time. Give a big shout out to Jolene, Connie and Terri for their help in cutting and piecing – and to Janet for super-quick machine quilting and a great backyard for photography.

      Now flutter on over to our shop at to see what else we’ve been up to and to snag some Frolic fabrics for your own collection.  Check out our blog at for a little give-away for some Frolic love too.

      1 Frolic Charm Pack for Butterfly Wings (Need 32 five inch squares)

      3/8 yard Bella Solids Ivory for Background
      5/8 yard Frolic Sky Solids for Alternate Blocks
      1/4 yard Frolic Bark Solids for Butterfly Body
      1/4 yard Frolic Grass Solids for Inner Border
      5/8 yard Frolic Large Floral for Outer Border
      1/2 yard Frolic Bark Solids for Binding
      1 1/2 yards of your favorite print for Backing
      The Angler Tool from Pam Bono is helpful, but not required.

      *WOF in the instructions below stands for Width of Fabric, or approximately 42″.

      *All seam allowances are 1/4″
      Ivory for Background: Cut (10) strips 1″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (384) 1″ squares.
      Blue for Alternate Blocks: Cut (4) strips 4 1/2″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (31) 4 1/2″ squares.
      Brown for Body: Cut (5) strips 1″ x WOF. Sub-cut into (32) 1″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles
      Green for Inner Border: Cut (4) strips 1 1/2″ x WOF.
      Large print for Outer Border: Cut (4) strips 4 1/2″ x WOF.
      Brown for Binding: Cut (5) strips 2 1/2″ x WOF.

      Choose 32 of the five inch charm squares to use for butterfly wings. I choose the prints with the most color so that they would show up best against the ivory bella background. Save the remaining squares for other projects.

      In the examples below, I’m just cutting through one charm square to best illustrate the steps – but feel free to cut through as many layers are you are comfortable. I usually cut through 4 layers at a time.

      Cut each charm square into (2) rectangles 2 1/4″ x 5″ each. You will have a small scrap left over.

      Cut each of the rectangles into (1) 2 1/4″ x 2 3/4″ rectangle and (1) 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ square.

      The trickiest part of this quilt is being sure to pay careful attention to the orientation of the wing sections while you are sewing. The wings will be mirror images of each other. Position an ivory 1″ square on the corners of the 4 wing sections as shown in the photo below.

      Tape the Angler tool by Pam Bono to your sewing machine following the instructions in the package. This tool is the handiest little invention for sewing corners squares ever! You simply tape the guide to your sewing machine, then you can align the point of the corner square with the line on the guide. Sew diagonally across the ivory square, using the center line on the guide for placement.

      *If you don’t have The Angler, you can draw a diagonal line across the back of the ivory squares. Stitch on the drawn lines.

      Continue stitching the corner squares. To save time, I like to chain all my pieces together. The chain makes it easy to pick up all the pieces and head to my cutting and ironing board too.

      Repeat the process on the remaining two corners of the butterfly wings, being very careful that you are sewing the ivory corners squares to the correct side of the wing.

      Double-check to be sure the ivory squares are sewn to the correct corners, then trim each seam allowance to 1/4″.

      Press the seam allowances towards the butterfly wing fabric, EXCEPT for the seams on the middle side of the small wings. By pressing these seams toward the background fabric, the seams for the two wing sections will neatly “nest” together when joining those sections. Just one of those little details that is worth the effort for a smooth finished project.

      Sew the two sections together for each side of the wings.

      Sew the wing sections to either side of the body section. Be careful to try to match up the position of the horizontal seam between the wings.

      Press seams towards the body. Now is a good time to give your butterflies a little mist of Mary Ellen’s Best Press or magic sizing. This will help your butterflies lay nice and flat when you join your blocks together.

      Repeat to make 32 butterflies. The block should measure 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ at this point. Square up blocks as necessary.

      Arrange butterfly blocks and the blue alternate blocks in 9 rows of 7 blocks each.

      Sew the blocks into rows. Press seams towards the alternate blocks.

      Join the rows together. The quilt center should now measure 28 1/2″ x 36 1/2″.

      Be sure to measure your quilt before cutting borders to size. Due to individual differences in sewing, your quilt may measure slightly different – cut borders to fit your measurements.

      Cut two inner border pieces to 36 1/2″ long. Sew to sides of quilt. Press towards borders.

      Cut two inner border pieces to 30 1/2″ long. Sew to top and bottom of quilt. Press towards borders.

      Cut two outer border lenghts to 38 1/2″. Sew to sides of quilt. Press towards outer border.

      Cut two outer border lengths to 38 1/2″. Sew to top and bottom of quilt. Press towards outer border.

      Quilt as desired. Our machine quilter outlined the body and wings, then made a flower chain on the alternate blocks.

      To bind, join the 5 brown strips end to end diagonally. Fold strip in half lengthwise. Press. Aling raw edges of strip with raw edge of quilt. Sew to quilt, mitering corners. Bring folded edge to back of quilt. Tack in place.

      1 Small Quilt: 38 1/2″ x 46 1/2″

      Perfect for a baby or toddler quilt, or a nice size to decorate a wall.

      Thanks for sewing with us. Enjoy this sweet little Frolic’N quilt. Check out our website or blog for kits and other fun projects.
      Julie Geiger
      Prairie Point Junction

      Christmas Packages


      Hello, my name is Doug Leko. I am 17 years old and I LOVE to design and make quilts. My mom got me started in quilting about 11 years ago.

      For the past couple years I have been creating my own line of quilt patterns – I design under the name Antler Quilt Design.

      I’m excited to share with you my first Moda Bake Shop Recipe!

      bake shop final

      • One Layer Cake (shown is 12 Days of Christmas, NEW for Christmas 2010 by Kate Spain)
      • 1- 1/2 yards of Block Sashing Fabric (Red 27023 -12)
      • 1- 3/4 yards of Outer Border Fabric (Cream 27030 – 11)
      • 5/8 yard of Binding Fabric (Cream 27030 – 11)

      1/4” seam allowance used throughout.
      WOF = width of fabric

      From the Block Sashing Fabric cut
      Two (2) 10” WOF strips. Sub-cut into thirty-five (35) 10” x 2” rectangles.
      Two (2) 11” WOF strips. Sub-cut into thirty-five (35) 11” x 2” rectangles.
      From the Outer Border Fabric cut
      Eight (8) 6-1/2” WOF strips.
      From the Binding Fabric cut
      Eight (8) 2-1/4” WOF strips.

       Block Construction:
      Position one Layer Cake square in front of you and cut in from the right-hand side 3”. Repeat with all 35 squares as shown.
      Picture 161
      Add one 10” x 2” Block Sashing rectangle between the two Layer Cake pieces just cut. Picture 167
      Sew the unit back together as pictured below. Press seams in towards Block Sashing fabric. Proof to 11” x 10”. Repeat with all 35 squares as shown. 
      Picture 169
      Next measure up from the bottom 3” and cut. Make 35 units. Picture 173  
      Add one 11” x 2” Block Sashing rectangle between the two Layer Cake pieces. Repeat with all 35 squares as shown.Picture 175

      Sew the unit back together as pictured below. Press seams in towards the Block Sashing fabric. Proof to 11” square. Repeat with all 35 squares as shown.
      Picture 178

      Arrange your blocks as pictured below and sew the rows together. I did have a couple blocks that didn’t make the quilt and that’s okay.


      Attach the Outer Borders – sides first, then the top and bottom. Press your seams towards the Outer Border.

      Quilt as desired.
      Bind using your favorite method.

      A festive Christmas Packages quilt; sized approximately 65”x 86”.
      I hope you enjoy your Christmas Packages Quilt!
      Thank you to my dear friend Sarah Q. for the beautiful way she quilted my sample.
      Check out other fun patterns by Antler Quilt Design:
      by Doug Leko