Let Your Imagination Bloom

Hi there, I’m Natalia from Piece N Quilt, you can stop by my blog or website to see what I’m up to each day. I’m so honored to be able to share this quilt with you today.

1/2 Yard Frolic Frolic Swirls Sky – Border

1 Yard Frolic Solids Bark – Border & Binding

1/4 Yard Frolic Swirls Wild Rose – Applique flowers
1/4 Yard Frolic Swirls Daffodil – Applique flowers
1/2 Yard Frolic Solids Tiger Lily -Applique flowers and words
Start out by cutting all of your layer cake squares in 1/2. As show in the image above.
After you cut the layer cake squares in 1/2 you will now cut the rectangles into angles.
Start at the bottom corner and then line the ruler up 2″ from the side, as show in the image above. Cut.
Repeat the process to make your blocks look like the above block.
Now you will lay your blocks out like the image above.
To sew the blocks together you will sew into strips.
First sew the agles to complete strips as show in the image above.
Then you will sew the quilt top together in strips as show in the image above.
Now take your charm charm pack.
Using our starch applique tutorial you will cut circles from 28 of your charm squares.
I used a CD for my large circle template.
You will also cut 4 – 2.5″ circles and 5 – 4″ circles for flower centers.
Applique the circles to the centers of all the full blocks, except for the solid print blocks.
Now take your two fat quarters and your solid print.
From those you will cut out 12 orange, 9 pink & 9 yellow flower petals.
Applique the flower petals onto the solid print blocks.
You will be making 2 – 1/2 blocks and 4 full flower blocks.
*The flower and letter images are included in the printable version.
Now add circles to the centers of all of your flower blocks.
Use the image below for applique placement.
I prefer to use brown thread and a blanket stitch for my applique.
Now you will add your borders.
Note that the top and side borders are smaler than the bottom borders.
Top and side blue borders are cut 2.5″
The bottom blue border is cut 3″
The top and side brown borders are cut 3.5″
The bottom brown border is cut 4.5″
Using your solid orange material you will noww applique the words, Let your imagination bloom.
*Letters for applique are included in the pritable version.
Make two yellow flowers for the two o’s.
Creating a bottom border that looks like the image above.
Now, quilt, bind and then add your buttons to centers of flowers.
1-73″x56″ Let Your Imagination Bloom Quilt.
Thanks for stopping by, don’t forget to use discount code ‘modabakeshop’ at Piece N Quilt to save 10% off your total purchase.

Market Day Tote Bag

Market Day Tote by Cyndi Walker of Stitch Studios

Do your weekend shopping in style with this cute rick-rack trimmed tote bag! Just grab one charm pack, some rick-rack trim and a couple of beautiful Bella Solids and I bet you can make this tote in just one afternoon. Easy peasy!

(1) Charm Pack – I used the lovely Beach House collection by Blackbird Designs
(1) Yard –  Cream Solid (Bella Solid in “natural”)
(1/2) Yard – Tan Solid (or Print) for Lining of Bag (Bella Solid in “tan”)

(1) Yard – 1″ Cotton Rick Rack (Elan Rick Rack in “Peach” which is a golden tan color)

Cutting the fabrics and rick-rack:
From the cream solid, cut: 32 – 5” squares
From the lining fabric, cut: 2 – 12 1/2” x 15 1/2” rectangles
From the rick-rack, cut: 2 – 16 1/2” strips and 1 – 13 1/2” strip

Make the Half-square-triangle Units
Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of a 5” cream square. Layer the marked cream square and a 5” cream square, right sides together.

Sew a line 1/4” from each side of the line.

Cut along the marked line to make a total of two half-square-triangle units. Press each unit towards the dark.

Trim the half-square triangle units to 3 1/2” square. Repeat to make a total of sixty-four half-square-triangle units – forty for the bag panels and twenty-four for the handles.

Assemble the Pieced Bag Panels: Layout twenty half-square-triangle units into five rows of four units. Sew the units in each row together and then join the rows together to complete a pieced bag panel. Repeat this process to make a total of two pieced bag panels.

Add the Rick Rack: Pin the three cut rick-rack strips to the left, right and bottom edges of one pieced bag panel, leaving half the width of the rick-rack showing along the edges. Baste the rick-rack in place.

Assemble the Outside of the Tote Bag: Right sides together, sew the two bag panels together along three edges, leaving the top short edge open. Clip the corners being careful not to cut the seams and turn inside out.

Make the Handles
Sew together twelve of the remaining half-square-triangle units together, matching the cream edges together to make a candy-cane stripe. Fold this strip in half, right sides together, and sew along the edge.

Turn the strip right-side-out and press the seam towards the back. Top stitch along each long edge to finish a handle. Repeat to make a total of two handles.

Make the Button Loop: Choose an uncut charm square from the remainder of the charm pack squares and cut a  2” x 5” rectangle. Fold the rectangle in half and press. Fold the two outside edges to meet the pressed line and press again. Fold this unit in half, press and topstitch along the long edge to finish the button loop. (See the next step

Add the button loop and handles
On the open edge, find the center of one bag panel. On the right side of one pieced bag panel, pin and baste the two open ends of the button loop to the center. On the right side of the pieced bag panel, pin and baste the two ends of the handles to the first seam from the left and right of the bag panel. Repeat with the second handle to the opposite finished bag panel.

Make the Bag Lining
To make the lining of the tote bag, sew together the two 12 1/2” x 15 1/2” rectangles together along three edges, leaving one short edge open.

Assemble the Bag
Right sides together, insert the pieced bag panels – with button loop and handles – into the bag lining. Pin along the two open edges and sew the edges together, leaving a 2” opening for turning the bag.

Turn the bag inside out, using the 2″ hole left in the seam along the top of the bag. Once you have done this, flip the lining to the inside of the bag and press. Top stitch along the top edge of the bag to finish

1 – 12″ x 15″ Tote Bag

Spring/Easter Dress

Hi! Tam here from Sew Dang Cute. I’ve got a fun Easter/Spring dress for you today using the bright, lovely colors from Lauren and Jessi Jung’s latest line, Botany. Love it!!

– 1 Botany Jelly Roll by Lauren and Jessi Jung
– 1/4 yd five different coordinating fabrics
– Coordinating thread(s)
– Elastic thread

*All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise noted.

Note: I made two different dresses at the same time, so pictures are from both dresses.

1. First we need to get some measurements. Measure child’s chest/waist. Use whichever measurement is bigger and add 6″. My daughter’s was 22″, so my measurement is 28″. Next decide the desired length of the dress. For my 4T dress, I wanted it 27″ long. Select 5 strips from the jelly roll. Next we need to do a little math.

Here’s the formula: Desired length – 10″ + 3.5″ / 6.

Explanation:Each jelly roll strip is 2.5″, so with seam allowances and five strips, we will get 10″ of our desired length (27″), leaving 17″ we need to get from our five coordinating fabrics. We need to add in hem and seam allowances of the coordinating strips, so add another 3.5″. I used my top color twice, so divide by 6. ex: 27 – 10 + 3.5 /6 = 3.416. I rounded to 3.5″. Did you make it? Now we are ready to cut.

2. Cut your top piece 3.5″” x 28″”. (28 from chest/waist measurement, 3.5″ from above formula). Cut your first jelly roll strip so it is 28″ long. Cut 3.5″ strips from all 5 coordinating fabrics. Cut two strap pieces 2.5″ x 10″. Lay out all your pieces in the desired pattern.
3. Take the two top pieces (the shorter ones: 28″). Sew right sides together (RST). Finish seam with either a zig-zag stitch or serger. Press, making sure to press the bulk of the seam towards the topmost piece. Topstitch.
4. Fold in half RST, lining up the two short raw end sides. Mark in 1/4″ from the raw edges where your seam will be with pins, then line the pins up at 0″ on a ruler. Find halfway and mark with pin. Mine was 13.5″, so I marked 6.75″ with a red pin. Go left 1/2″ mark with a pin (mine is white), then add 3″ from there and mark with pin (mine is another white pin). Draw a scoop between the white pins. Click on image to enlarge. Cut out the scoop. Unfold and you should have two cut-outs. These are for the arms. Now we need to hem the top. Make a few small clips in the arm holes (this will make it easier to fold for the hem).Fold the top raw edge (the one with the scoops), down 1/4″ towards the wrong side of the fabric and press. Fold down another 1/4″ and press. Stitch down. Set top piece aside.

5. Grab your very bottom piece and hem it with a 1/4″ hem like we used above.
6. Stitch remaining pieces (all the 44″ length jelly roll strips and coordinating fabrics) together in desired order. Finish seams. Press and topstitch, switching threads as necessary if doing multiple colors. You should now have a top and bottom piece.
7. Fold bottom piece in half RST, lining up the seams and pinning in place. Stitch. Finish seam. Do the same with the top piece.

8. Sew a gathering stitch along the raw edge of your bottom piece. Divide both the top and bottom pieces into 1/4’s and mark with pins. Place the top piece inside the bottom piece RST, and raw edges lining up, and match up the pins. Pulling on the bobbin thread, gather the fabric between pins and pin frequently to hold the gathers in place. Make sure to change your stitchlength back to a regular stitch and stitch. Finish seam. Press and topstitch.

9. Next we are going to do some shirring. Lay your dress facedown. Mark about 1 1/2″ in from each side with pins. Handwind a bobbin with elastic thread. You don’t want to stretch it as you are winding or it will be too tight. Load the elastic thread in your bobbin and keep regular thread in the top. Starting 1/4″ down from the hem stitching, sew between the two pins, making sure to backstitch really well at the start and stop. Continue the next row 1/4″ down from the row you just made. Sew about 10 rows or so, just enough that you have sewn down the top two strips of the dress. Press those rows and watch the fabric shrink up to create the smocking.
10. Let’s get those straps done. Fold in half lengthwise and sew RST. Turn inside out and press with the seam in the middle of the strap. Topstitch the long sides of the straps. To figure out where to attach the straps, I grabbed my daughters and slipped the dresses on them, then pinned the straps in place. Stitch the straps in place by going right over the hem stitching. Trim excess fabric on straps, if necessary, and finish the raw edges. Guess what?! You are ALL DONE!!! Back view: Add a cute matching fabric flower using this tutorial and you have one springy, happy, little lady (or in my case two)!

One jelly roll will be enough for multiple dresses, you will just need to buy extra yardage of the solid coordinating fabrics. I was able to make two dresses with the amounts listed.

Custom Wall Art

Hi everyone ! I’m very excited to have a new Bake Shop tutorial for you. This recipe will show you how to create custom wall art for your home. It’s the perfect size for above a mantle. Thanks so much for looking and stop by for a visit anytime!

  • 1 Rural Jardin jelly roll by French General
  • Fabric paint
  • Sponge brush
  • Exacto knife
  • Spray Adhesive
  • Printed design or font to use as a stencil
  • Cutting mat
  • 2 wood frame pieces, size 30″ (located in your local craft store by the canvases)
  • 2 wood frame pieces, size 40″
  • Staple Gun

Phew! After gathering all of those material, let’s get to the fun part.

1. Sew three jelly roll strips right sides together. Repeat three more times for a total of four sets of three strips.

2. Sew two jelly roll strips rights sides together. Repeat four more times for a total of five sets of two strips.

3. Set aside the four sets of three strips.

4. Take each two strip set and cut at the following intervals: 8″, 20″, 25″, and 36″.

5. Mix up the pieces from each cut strip and sew back together. You will end up with five pieced strips that look like this:

6. Now bring back the four sets of three strips you set aside. Alternate the pieced strip sets (from Step 5) with three strip sets.

7. Sew rows right sides together. Notice the length of the three strip set is longer than the length of the two strip set. Don’t worry about that. We’ll take care of it in a later step.

8. Cut three new jelly roll strips into 2.5″ squares. Place the squares randomly on the pieced top and sew them on.

9. Take your four wood frame pieces and slide them together to create a rectangle.

10. Place the quilt top right side down on the ground. Place the frame on top.

11. Pull the fabric taut and staple to the back of the frame on all sides. Trim excess fabric.

You could be done with your art now, or continue on to stenciling.

12. I decided to stencil our monogram. The etiquette for stenciling a married couple’s monogram is the wife’s first name initial on the left, the married last name initial in the middle, and the husband’s first name initial on the right.

Select a font on your word processing program or download a free font from dafont.com. There are oh so many to choose from!

I printed 8″ letters for the J and B and an 11″ letter for the G.

I also printed the following 4″ letters and numbers:

Cut out all letters and designs on your cutting mat with an Exacto knife.

13. Now grab your trusty spray adhesive.

Spray the wrong side of each stencil and adhere to desired spot on quilt top.

14. Using a sponge brush, dab fabric paint over your stencil. Let dry completely.

15. Carefully peel back stencils and voila!

A personalized, one of a kind piece of art for your home!

Enjoy 🙂

Fabric Candy Dishes

1 jelly roll OR honey bun. {hunky dory featured.}
1/4 – 1/2 yard fabric.
cellophane or plastic wrap.
2″ foam brush.
mod podge or elmer’s glue all.
glass bowl.

pick out your favorite bowl.
{or a bowl you like the size & shape of.}

take some jelly roll strips and cut them in half.
{i cut right on the fold.}

flip your bowl so the bottom is up.
cover the outside of your bowl in cellophane.
{make sure you get all the air out.}

dump your mod podge or glue into a bowl.
{this will ensure a much easier work environment. trust me.}

paint a thin layer of glue all over the cellophane.

lay a jelly roll strip, right side down, across your bowl.
paint another thin layer of glue over your strip.

keep layering strips and gluing until the bottom is completely covered.

take your piece of fabric, right side up, and drape it over your bowl.

start pressing the fabric against the bowl.
remember: pleats are good. they add character.

trim your excess fabric off.

paint another coat of glue all over your fabric.

set your bowl out in the sun to dry.
make sure you check on it periodically.
{you’d hate to find debris dried on your fabric.}

note: i placed my bowl on aluminum foil.
it attracts the sun and helps it dry faster.

when your bowl is completely dry, take it out of it’s mold.
your fabric bowl should look something like mine.
bad hair day & all.

trim those stragglers.

and add the good stuff.

now stand back and check out your easy, peasy homemade candy dishes.

note: to reverse the look of the bowl, like i did with the smaller one, let the jelly roll strips show on the outside with the whole cloth on the inside.
it’s fun to mix & match.

this is a great craft to do with kids.
my kiddos love making these.

& they’re perfect for every holiday.
gotta love all those holiday fabrics & candies.

hope yall enjoy!!!

rachel of p.s. i quilt


This quilt is perfect for that favorite little girl of yours or even as a whimsical Valentine’s Day throw.  Bind it or add a ruffle for extra charm!
All fabrics are Plume by Tula Pink

1 charm pack
1 1/2 yards of light background fabric
6 jelly roll strips for sashing
7 yards of jumbo ric rac
1/2 yard for binding
3 yards for backing (you will have some left over, which you could use for the binding if you want 🙂

2 yards for ruffle

1.  Create a heart template by cutting a 5″ square piece of paper.  Fold it in half and cut out half a heart that measures exactly 4 3/4″ from top to bottom.

2.  Fold one charm square in half, right sides together.  Place the folded heart template on the fold of your fabric and trace with a pencil.  With fabric still folded, cut out the half-heart on the traced line.  Repeat with 34 more charm squares to make a total of 35 hearts.  Set hearts aside.


3.  Cut out five 7 1/2″ x width of fabric strips out of the light background fabric.  Trim each strip down to 40 1/2″. 

4.  To mark the placement of the hearts, fold each strip in half and iron on the fold to mark the center.  Then fold the two ends into the center mark and iron on those two folds.  Lastly, fold the two ends in again meeting at the last two fold marks, creating a total of 5 fold marks in the strip.  The placement for the last two hearts is exactly 5″ to the right of the second fold mark and the fourth fold mark. Use a clear ruler to measure 5″ away from those fold lines and then line up the center of the two hearts there.

5.  Lay out the hearts on the fold marks according to the diagram below:


6.  Center the heart on the fold marks with the point of the heart 1 3/8″ away from the edge of the fabric. Pin or glue baste into place.  I used a few dots of Appli-glue on each half of the heart.

7.  Sew 1/4″ inside edge of hearts creating a raw edge that will fray when washed.  Clip threads on front and back.  Repeat for all 5 strips of hearts.

8.  For sashing: Use a pencil to mark a line down the middle of each jelly roll strip. Pin or glue baste a piece of ric rac onto the marked line, leaving an inch or two on either end in case of fraying (trim just before sewing on borders). 


Outer curves of ric rac will be about 1/2″ away from edge of jelly roll strips. 

Stitch down the middle of the ric rac using a thread color that blends.

Repeat with the other 5 sashing strips.

9.  Sew heart rows and sashing strips together, beginning and ending with sashing strips.  Press seams towards sashing.  Trim ric rac after all of the rows of hearts and sashing are sewn together.

10.  For borders:  Cut five 2 1/2″ x width of fabric background fabric for the borders.  

Trim two of the strips to 40 1/2″ and sew to the top and bottom of the quilt top.  Sew the other 3 strips end to end.  Measure through the middle of the quilt from top to bottom.  Cut two border strips that length and sew to the sides of your quilt.  Press seams towards border.  

11.  To piece your back, cut your 3 yards of fabric in half to make two 1 1/2 yard cuts.  Cut off the selvages and then sew the two long edges together.  This will create a horizontal seam on the back of your quilt.  You will have some left over, which you could use for your binding if you want.    

12.  Quilt and bind! If you wish to do a ruffle instead of a regular binding, then continue reading…

 Ruffle Instructions

If you wish to do a ruffle, then leave 1/2″ of unquilted space around the entire edge of the quilt.  When your quilt is done being quilted DO NOT trim your batting and backing to line up with the quilt top (like you normally would after it’s quilted).  Instead, trim the back and batting so that they’re about an inch or so bigger than the top.
1.  Create the ruffle:  Cut twelve 6″ strips of fabric.  Cut off selvages.  Sew all of the pieces end to end and then sew the beginning and the ending edges together to make one big ring of fabric.  Make sure that it’s not twisted.  

2.  Iron the entire ring of fabric in half with wrong sides together.

3.  Gather the ruffle: Use DMC floss and a zig zag stitch to make the “pull” to gather the fabric. 

First, set your zig zag on its longest stitch length.  You’ll also need to adjust the width of the zig zag so that it doesn’t go past 1/4″ from the raw edge of the fabric.  You might want to do a practice run to get the settings just right.

Hold the DMC floss under the center of where your zig zag will be and go back and forth (in place) a couple of times to secure the floss.  Leave a few extra inches of floss hanging at the beginning to grab onto when it’s time to gather.  Continue centering the floss under the zig zag while you sew the entire edge around your ring of ruffle fabric.

Sew back and forth again at the end to secure the floss.  Leave a few extra inches of floss at the ending point as well.  

4.  Mark the two halfway points of the ring of fabric and pin those to opposite corners of the quilt.  Working with the fabric between two points, pull the DMC floss while cinching up the fabric.  Work with it until the fabric is evenly dispersed over that half of the quilt and then do the same on the opposite side of the quilt.  

5.  Using a 3/8″ seam allowance, sew the ruffle onto the  front of your quilt top being VERY careful not to catch the batting or the backing under your stitches. 

6.  After you’ve sewn the entire ruffle, on use scissors to trim the batting about 1/8″ away from your seam. 

7.  Hand stitch the backing onto the ruffle, turning under the raw edge as you go.  


45″ x 54″ quilt

Spring T-Shirt Tutorial

White t-shirt
3 – different strips of fabric from a Honey Bun
3 – different 3 x 3″ fabrics
3 – buttons
needle and thread

From your three honey bun strips, iron in half length wise.

Pick three coordinating pieces of fabric.

Cut 1 – 3 x 3″ square out of each fabric. (This really does not need to be out of matching fabric, because you wont see it.)

Draw 3 different size circles on each of them. The sizes of the circles are 1 1/2″, 1 1/4″ and 1″. I found that the tops and bottoms of medicine bottles worked great.

Fold the edge of your fabric over onto the back about 1/4″ and start sewing. It’s hard to tell from the picture but the stitching is on the very edge of the fabric, only about 1/8″ in. Note – the raw edges of the fabric are on the inside touching the circle, and the fold is on the outside.

Sew a little less than 1/2″ and then stop. Raise your presser foot and do a 1/4″ pleat as close to the front of the presser foot as you can get. Sew until you’ve done 2 or 3 stitches in the pleat and then repeat, keeping fabric on the outside of the circle.

It should start looking like this.

Keep repeating until you’ve gone completely around the circle and about 1/2″ over the start of the circle. Now start working your way inwards. Start moving the fabric in about 1/4″ or less and keep repeating the pleats. Do this until you reach the inside of the circle and the majority or all of the background fabric is covered.
When you reach the inside of the circle and you’re ready to finish cut the fabric about 1/4″ from the end and tuck if under and stitch. Remember the middle doesn’t need to look perfect because it will have a button, and that button can be as big as you want it. 🙂

Not the greatest picture, but your flower should resemble this.

Now cut the excess fabric off of the back, around the stitching.

Sew a button onto the front of the flower. Place the flowers where you want them on the t-shirt and pin. With a needle and matching thread start sewing the flowers onto the t-shirt. Note – at first I did this with the knots on the inside of the shirt, but on the others I made I put the knots on the flowers, and tried to cover them by stitching them in between the rows. I was worried the knots would bother my daughter when they rubbed against her skin.

One super cute Spring / Easter T-shirt for your favorite little girl!
Come over and visit me at my blog – Our Cozy Nest, I’m having a little giveaway!