Child’s Apron, Chef’s Hat and Oven Mitts

  Hi! I’m Melissa Ann from Lilac Lane. I’m SO excited to share my first goody with you. Today we are making a child’s apron, chef’s hat and play oven mitts. If you would like to win the ensemble pictured above, hop on over to my blog. I’m having a giveaway for it! Otherwise, here are the instructions you need to make it for yourself. In fact, one jelly roll makes two complete sets. Yummy! Enjoy.

1 delicious jelly roll of Hunky Dory by Chez Moi
1/2 yard of coordinating fabric
1/2 yard double sided fusible quilt batting

6 inches by about 20 inches of a soft knit fabric

Step 1. Choose eight fabric strips from your jelly roll. Make sure you really like them and that the same colors are neither next to each other nor at the same place from the other end. (the second and seventh strips should not be the same color, also the 1st and 8th, 3rd and 6th, 4th and 5th.) Sew them all together using 1/4″ seam allowance. (Yes! I’m a quilter.)
Step 2. Zigzag or overlock all your seams. My son calls this “going zigzag.” It takes a bit but ensures your seams won’t fray. Then press the seams all the same direction.


Step 3. Cut 8 – 2 1/2″ strips across the 8 rows you just sewed together. Turn these back and forth so that every other row is the same and sew together with 1/4″ seam.

If you pressed your seams the same direction in step 2, they will lock together in the back and make really nice looking squares on the front. They should look something like this.

And here is the front. The seams match really well this way.

Step 4. Zigzag again (sigh). Then press. Fold your piece of fabric in half.

Then fold in half the other way, making a square.

Step 5. There will be two folded sides. Taking your ruler, mark eight inches from the corner between the two folded sides. Mark the eight inches at several points, forming an arc. A compass would be good for this. Join the marks and cut.

You will have a nice circle.

Step 6. Sew two rows of gathering stitches all around the circle at 1/4 and 3/8 inches from the edge. For my sewing machine, this means setting the stitch length to 5. Pull up the gathers some, but not too much. You want this part of the hat to be a little bit bigger than the band.
Step 7. Measure the child’s head. In the absence of a child to measure, my two year old measures 19 inches, four year old 20 inches and 6 year old 21 inches. This hat fit all three of them.

Step 8. Cut a piece of stretchy knit fabric six inches wide by one inch less than the child’s head circumference. For this hat, I used six inches by 19 inches.

Step 9. Sew across the knit fabric. This was probably the hardest step for me as my machine does not like knit fabrics. I went over it two or three times. If your machine has a stretch stitch, this will greatly help.

Step 10. Fold the hat band in half. It should look like this.

Step 11. Pin the gathered part of the hat into the hat band. Since the band is very stretchy, it’s okay if the gathered part is bigger — you can ease it as you go.

Step 12. Sew all the way around the hat, joining the hat band to the gathered fabric. I used a seam just a bit larger than 3/8 inches so that I didn’t have to pull out the gathering thread when I was finished. I find that it is a bit easier if you put the gathered part on top and the knit on the bottom against the feed dogs. Then, you guessed it, zigzag all the way around your seam.

Hat’s finished!

Step 13. Take the remaining fabric you sewed together earlier. I told you to make sure you really liked it! It should be about 23 inches. Cut it in half (two 11 1/2″ pieces.)

Step 14. Set the two pieces side by side. Sew together and finish seam.

Step 15. Fold the edges over and press 1/4 inch, and then 1/4 inch again. Sew down this seam about 1/4 inch from the edge to finish it.

Step 16. Choose a strip to edge the bottom of the apron. Press a 1/4″ seam down each side and then press the whole thing in half. On the end you will start with, press a 1/4″ seam on the short (2 1/2″) side of the fabric.

Step 17. Open up your pressed strip and sew along the first pressed indentation. Sew with the right side of the strip facing the wrong side of the bottom of the apron. When you reach the end of the apron, cut about 1/4″ extra, fold this in to be even with the end of the apron skirt and sew across to the end of the apron skirt.
Step 18. Fold the edging over to the front side of the apron and edge stitch across it.
Step 19. Choose four strips for the apron ties. Similar colors would probably look nicest. Set these aside for just a bit.

Step 20. Choose four colors for the apron bodice and for the oven mitts. If you are making this for a bigger child, this would be a good place to add a strip or two. Sew them together with 1/4″ seam. No need to zigzag the seams this time (hooray!) Cut the strip of four sewn strips into 4 – 8 inch squares and 1 8 x 9 inch square. Also cut a piece of coordinating fabric to 8 x 9 inches. Set the four 8 x 8 inch pieces aside for later.

Step 21. Gently curve the corners of the top of the bodice.

Step 22. With right sides together, sew all the way around the apron bodice and apron facing (coordinating fabric) with 1/4″ seam. Clip the curves. Turn inside out and press. Make two large button holes approximately 1 1/2 inches in from each side and 1/2 inch from the top.
Step 23. Now take the four tie pieces. Sew two together at the short ends and then the other two together in the same way. Then pin the two ties together. Pinning is a must here! Leave a twenty inch gap centered in the middle of the ties. I marked this with two pins. Sew all the way around everything but the marked twenty inches in the middle.

Step 24. Clip the corners and then turn the whole thing inside out. Press it flat. Then press a 1/4″ seam into the center part which wasn’t sewn.

Step 25. Center the apron bodice into the tie. It will be a little sandwich: apron bodice between two unsewn tie pieces. Gather the apron skirt across the top like you did with the hat. Adjust your gathers so that the skirt is two to three inches wider than the bodice on each side. Then center the apron skirt into the tie in the same way.

Step 26. Edge stitch around the entire thing. I like to edge stitch all the way around the ties so you never have to worry about them getting a little wonky when you wash the apron. Check the back when you’re finished to make sure you caught the back side of the tie. If not, rip out a little and try again. If you caught it all, then great! Move on to the next step.

Step 27. Choose a fabric for the strap and cut it down to 30 inches. If you are enlarging the pattern, make it a little bit bigger. Make a strap exactly how you made the bottom trim in step 16. Edge stitch all the way around this piece.

Step 28. Thread one side through and knot two or three times so that it won’t come out of the button hole. Then thread the other side through and knot once or twice so that it will, with effort, come out of the button hole.

The placement of the knots will determine the length of the apron.


Note: These oven mitts are for play only and not to be used in a real oven.

Step 29. Take the four 8 x 8 fabric pieces you already cut and then cut four 8 x 8 pieces for facing from the coordinating fabric. Also cut four 8 x 8 or a little larger pieces of the quilt batting.

Step 29. Make this into a quilt sandwich by ironing the front fabric to one side and the back fabric to the other side. Then quilt it by sewing down the seam lines or any other look you would like to quilt.

Step 30. Trace a large mitten around the child’s hand or download the PDF file I have made. Then position the hand onto each of the four quilt sandwiches and cut out. It’s VERY IMPORTANT to cut two one direction and two the other. In other words, the best way to do this is to place two fabrics with the facing sides together and cut both at the same time. Otherwise, you will end up with the facing showing on one side of the mitt.

Step 31. Sew all the way around the mitt and clip the curvy parts and the thumb indentation part.

Step 32. Turn the glove right side out and press. Measure across the opening. Take this measurement times 2 and then add 1/2 inch. Mine is 4 inches across. Taking it time 2 is 8 inches and and extra half inch is 8 1/2. Cut a strip this size. Press it as you did in step 16. Then open it up and sew the two ends together.

Step 33. Then fold it back on its fold lines and position over the mitt. Edge stitch all the way around. Check the inside to make sure you caught everything. If you did, you’re finished! Congratulations!

2 aprons

2 chef’s hats
4 play oven mitts
Happy baking!
Don’t forget to enter my drawing to win this very set!

Essence Turnover Topper

1 Essence Turnover
1/2 yard of sashing & binding fabric {Essence Leaves Teal 17487 11}
5/8 yard backing fabric {Essence Fall Flowers Red 17481 17}
Batting 27″ x 27″
3 yards of giant ric rac
Triangle square up ruler or 6 ½” ruler

This project is super easy… super fast… and is a great last minute gift!

1. Pick 32 triangles and lay them out as shown in the following picture. To create the angles that I did… I choose 4 green, 4 gold, 8 cream, 4 red, 4 blue, and 8 brown or dark purple.

{From here on out I’m going to reference the blocks by letters a, b, & c}

2. Start with block A and sew each pair of green and gold triangles into a ½ square triangle block. Press to the dark fabric. Set aside.

3. Next we are going to make the flying geese blocks which are labeled as B. Sew each pair of cream and brown or dark purple triangles into a ½ square triangle block. Press one to the dark and one to the cream so that you will be able to nestle the seams.

4. Before you can sew them together they needed to be trimmed. I trimmed mine down to 5 ½” so that they would be 5” finished. You can use any ruler but I have found that the Quilt In a Day triangle square up ruler is best. There are no horizontal or vertical lines to distract you. It is as easy as putting the 5 ½” line on top of your seam and cutting the dark purple sides. Then you rotate the block and repeat for the light side.

5. Once the blocks are trimmed sew them together along the cream side to create 4 of block B. Set Aside.

6. The last block to make is C the center. Sew each pair of red and blue triangles into a ½ square triangle block. Press two to the blue and two to the red. Again this is so that you will be able to nestle the seams so you’ll want to make the opposite corners the same way. See the arrows below…

7. Trim ½ square triangle units as shown in step #4 and then sew together into a four patch unit.

8. Lastly Trim ½ square triangle corner units that were made in step #2.

9. Cut sashing strips.
a. 4 @ 3” x 5.5” {small}
b. 2 @ 3” x 10.5” {medium}
c. 2 @ 3” x 25.5” {large}

10. Lay blocks back out with sashing as shown below.

11. Sew horizontal rows together.
a. The first row is block a, small sashing, block b, small sashing, block a
note: be careful to not rotate the blocks
b. The second pieced row is block b, medium sashing, block c, medium sashing, block b

c. The last row is block a, small sashing, block b, small sashing, block a

12. The last step in piecing is to put in the large sashing.

13. Layer with batting and backing and quilt as desired. I quilted a ¼” away from the diagonal lines and ¼” in on each side of the sashing using a variegated teal thread. {yes you quilt the piece before the ric rac is added}

14. Before trimming we are going to add our ric rac. Cut the ric rac into 4 pieces each approximately 27″ long. The finished topper should be around 25 ½” long so this you’ll have a bit of overhang at each end. Line up one peice in the center of your sashing.

15. Stitch down the center with coordinating thread. It is especially helpful to use a walking foot as you are stitching through the ric rac and the entire quilt. Repeat for all 4 pieces.

16. Trim quilt top to size and add binding. I cut 3 strips at 2.25” x WOF for my binding

17. A helpful tip is using binding clips to hold your binding in place on the back before you stitch it down.

18. Hand stitch binding.. add a label and you are done!

a super easy last minute project!!
{happy early thanksgiving by the way!}


by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Chair Scarf

Moda Petit Four sku#PFBOX

• or an Aster Manor charm pack
• 1/2 yd. backing Aster Manor sku# 12019 12 Sommerset Pink
• 1/4 yd. binding Aster Manor sku# 3908 36 Wildflowers Crimson
• Clover small 1 1/4 inch yo-yo maker or template
• basic hand sewing supplies, needle, thread, thimble

•When I started this project I intended to use it on one of my side tables as a table topper…until I finished it. I layed it across my new desk chair before I set out to take the final pictures. I liked the way it looked sooo much that, that is where it will stay. It transformed into a ‘Chair Scarf’.

•To start this project select 49 squares from your Petit Four. A petit four has 2 fabric lines with 120 – 2.5 inch squares of each line. I chose Aster Manor and separated my squares by color first. If you are using charm packs, cut your chosen fabrics into 2.5 inch squares and follow directions as listed.
•Center Squares:
20 light creams
13 reds
12 pinks
4 yellows
•Yo-Yo Border:
35 browns
17 reds
4 yellows
•Carefully arrange your squares to form the pattern shown above 7 X 7.

•I flipped row 2 onto row 1 and pinned them.
•Leave the rest of your rows on the cutting mat.

•Sew Row 1 and Row 2 together.
•Do not cut the thread in between the squares.
•Iron them open.

•Lay rows 1/2 on the cutting mat checking the placement of your pattern.

•Flip Row 3 onto Row 1/2 and pin.

•Sew Row 3 to Row 1/2.
•Again, do not cut threads
•Iron open and continue to add rows in the same manner for the entire top.

•It will look like this. All squares are sewn into rows.

•Now take Row 1A and flip it onto Row 2A and pin.

•Notice I still haven’t clipped threads.
•Continue sewing the rows together.
•Here is row 1A sewn to new row 2A
•Make sure you pay close attention to the direction of the seams to ensure they are nested from row to row to reduce bulk.
• Layer the batting, backing and center top and machine quilt. I chose a meander with a flower and free motion quilted my project. If you are new to quilting, try a straight stitch in the ditch, or diagonal lines through each square.

•Add single fold binding…

•And finish binding the center.

•Make 56 Yo-Yo’s using either the Clover green yo-yo maker or the template provided. The yo-yo’s should finish to 1 1/4 inches.

I hope you picked up one tip from my tutorial and that you will be inspired to make a table topper for your table or chair scarf for your sewing room or desk. In fact I can see this project made with many other Moda fabric lines! The possibilities are fact maybe I should make one for every season!!
Thanks, Vickie E

Yo-Yo Border:

35 browns
17 reds
4 yellows

• Here are the yo-yo’s laid out for placement.

•Begin by stitching yo-yo to yo-yo with a whip stitch, forming rows.

•For best results I stitched 15 yo-yo’s together, then,13, 13 and 15.

•Once the rows are stitched, pin the yo-yo strip right sides together to the quilted center as shown.
•Stitch each yo-yo onto the binding.

• Continue adding the strips/sides to finish.

16.5 X 16.5 inch chair scarf or table topper…

Journal Covers

by Roslyn Mirrington of Bloom
Just in time for Christmas giving, cook up a journal cover (or ten!) from a single honey bun. The two covers in this tutorial are made from Minick & Simpson’s elegant new line, Wiscasset.

1 x ‘Wiscasset‘ honey bun (Product code: 14640HB)
1 x fat quarter of coordinating fabric for lining
lightweight fusible fleece (I used Vilene H 630 made by Freudenberg)
For Journal #1:
12″ coordinating ribbon
DMC six strand embroidery floss in the following colours:
  • #347 very dark salmon
  • #611 drab brown
  • #760 salmon
  • #3750 very dark antique blue
For Journal #2:
1 x fat eighth linen fabric
1.25 yard coordinating ribbon
I have made these journal covers to fit an A5 art diary which is 6.25″ wide, and 8.25″ long. If your journal is a different size, the method of construction will remain the same, but you will need to alter the measurements to fit.

Journal Cover #1

Step 1: The pieced panel
From the fusible fleece, cut a rectangle 9″ x 21″.

From the honey bun, choose 8 strips. (If you would like the option of an embroidered strip, choose one tone-on-tone strip for your embroidery). From each of these strips, cut a 21″ length.
Using a sharp, lead pencil and a light box (or the nearest window), transfer the embroidery design onto the tone-on-tone strip. You can find a pdf version of the embroidery design here. The fabric itself inspired this simple design, but feel free to make up your own design at this point! Of course, this embroidered strip is entirely optional. If the embroidery doesn’t appeal to you, simply leave this strip unadorned.

Lay the rectangle of fusible fleece on ironing board, with fusible side up. Lay the first fabric strip along the top edge of the fleece, with top edges aligned and fuse.
Lay the second strip, right sides together, on top of the first strip. Pin in place.
Using a 0.25″ seam, stitch the strips together to the fusible fleece.
Edit: Your seams actually need to be slightly less than 0.25″ or a ‘very scant’ 0.25″. (The finished width of each strip should be a little more than an inch).

Open the strips, & flip the second strip down onto the fusible fleece and press.
Continue adding strips in this way, pinning, stitching, flipping & pressing until you have added all eight strips.
You may find at this point that the fabric strips have stretched a little as you have sewn, and you have messy bits at either end of your pieced panel (see below). Simply trim these ends back to square with the fusible fleece.
Similarly, you may have some excess fleece at the bottom of your pieced panel. Again, trim the excess fleece back to the fabric strip.

You should have something that looks like the photo below. At this point, the pieced panel should measure 8.5″ x 21″.
Correction: The pieced panel should be 9″ long (not 8.5″) by approximately 21″ wide.
Step 2: The embroidered strip

If you are choosing to embroider your journal cover, it is time to stitch! Using a simple backstitch and 2 strands of thread, stitch the flowers. I have used DMC #347 very dark salmon for the flowers, #760 salmon for the flower centres and #611 drab brown for the leaves and stems. The spots are colonial knots using 2 strands of #3750 very dark antique blue.
Step 3: The ribbon marker

Mark the centre top of your cover. Pin a 12″ piece of coordinating ribbon to the top edge of the cover, 1.5″ from the centre, towards what will be the back of the cover.

Machine stitch this ribbon to the cover, 1/8″ in from the edge.
Step 4: Finishing the cover
Overlock or zig zag the short sides of the rectangle to neaten. Turn these sides under by 0.25″ and stitch.
With the right side of your journal cover facing upwards, put pins at the centre top and centre bottom. Measure 6.75″ either side of each centre, and mark with pins.

Turn in each of the short ends such that the fold lies at the point you have pinned 6.75″ from centre.
Measure your journal cover at this point. From the fat quarter of coordinating fabric, cut a lining rectangle with the same measurements. (The lining should be somewhere near 13.5″ x 8.5″; you can overlock the short ends of this rectangle, but it is optional).
Pin the lining rectangle in place over the journal cover. Make sure your ribbon marker is tucked in out of the way.
Stitch the top and bottom seam using a 0.25″ seam allowance. (I also overlocked these seams, just for strength & neatness).

Now for the exciting bit! You should now be able to turn the entire journal cover in the right way & press. Hopefully, the outside should look something like this:
And the inside should look something like this:
Insert journal and enjoy!

Journal #2
Step 1: The pieced panel
From the fusible fleece, cut one rectangle 9″ x 21″.
From 21 honey bun strips, cut 4.5″ lengths.
From linen fabric, cut two rectangles 2.75″ x 21″
The coordinating lining fabric will be cut to size later.
Using a 0.25″ seam, sew the 4.5″ honey bun strips together to form one long piece.

With the fusible side of your fleece up, mark lines with a pencil 2.25″ from each long edge.

Place your pieced honey bun strip between these lines and pin. Fuse the strip to the fleece, with the point of your iron. Take care not to press beyond the fabric strip or you will end up with a sticky mess on your iron!

You may find at this point that the fabric strips have stretched a little as you have sewn, and you have excess fabric at end of your pieced panel (see below). Simply trim these ends back to square with the fusible fleece.

Pin one of the linen rectangles, right sides together, to the top of the honey bun strip.
Stitch this seam using 0.25″ seam allowance.

Flip the linen back across the fusible fleece and press. Repeat with the second linen rectangle.

Using a matching thread, topstitch three rows of straight stitching, 0.25″ apart to the top and bottom side of the honey bun strip.

Pin your length of coordinating ribbon at the centre of your journal cover.
Stitch the ribbon in place.
Finish your journal cover by following from Step 4 of Journal Cover #1. Insert journal and tie the ribbon in a bow to close. Trim ribbon ends to desired length.
Have fun with these journal covers & be sure to send me a photo if you make one! There are more variations of these covers over at my blog, here and here. Best wishes, Bloom.
One Honey Bun (40 strips) will yield 10 of Journal Cover #1 OR 15 of Journal Cover #2.

Stripey Skinny Seasonal Table Runner & Stripey Tiny Tree Skirt

Hi there! It’s Melissa Mortenson from the Polkadot Chair, today I am going to share with you a tutorial for a Christmas Tree Skirt & Runner. I think this is my favorite project for Moda Bake Shop yet.

Stop by my blog and say hi, ask me questions or let me know what you think!

Do you have a cute little table top Christmas tree? Why not make a quick and easy tree skirt for it? Plus you will have enough fabric left in your honey bun to make this cute table runner to match!

1 Figgy Pudding Honey Bun

1 Figgy Pudding Turnover or Charm Pack

1 Moda White Jelly Roll
2 yds white fabric for backing
1/4″ yd. or 1 fat quarter,  blue fabric for binding on tree skirt
Embroidery floss
Heat n Bond Lite
Batting (I used quilters dream cotton)

Very IMPORTANT! Before you begin to sew, if you want to make both the runner and the tree skirt make sure that you pick out all of your fabrics first! Otherwise you might run out of a color that you want.

To begin, you need 11 honey bun strips. You need to set them up in a color pattern that starts in the center and mirrors out to the edges.  You want to match rows 1 & 11, 2 & 10, 3 & 9, 4 & 8, 5 & 7 and row 6 will be your center row.

You need them to match because your are going to cut them into triangles, and flip the template after each cut. (if you are confused now, don’t worry just keep reading it will make sense with the photos).

Sew all rows together with 1/4″ seam. Press all seams to one side.

You need to make a template. To do this you need 1, 12×12 piece of scrapbook paper. Cut it to 9×12, find the center of the 9″ side, measure from the center down to the opposidte corners, cut. Repeat for other side.  For photo instructions to make the triangle click here (NOTE: your triangle will be 9×12, NOT  6×9 like in the photos)

After you have made your template, lay it out on your sewn rows of fabric. Using your ruler & rotary tool, cut out the triangle, making sure that it is all the way over to the edge, you will need every centimeter of fabric, so double check it.
Cut off selvage edges.

You will get a piece that looks like this.

Next, flip the template 180 degrees.  Line up the edge of the template with the cut edge of the fabric strip. Cut out your next piece.
Flip template again and repeat, until you get 9 triangles… (note your last triangle you may be a little short, don’t worry still cut it, that will be the edge piece of your tree skirt).

Arrange your cut pieces into a circle, alternating patterns. (you will have 2 next to each other that are the same pattern, use this as the “seam” or opening of your tree skirt).

Sew pieces together with 1/4″ seam. Leave one seam open, this will be the openeing of your tree skirt.
Cut out center of the skirt, leaving 1″ of the red strip still showing. (if your tabletop tree has a wider trunk, cut a larger hole).

If you wish to hand embroider a phrase on your tree skirt do it now.  Print off your words, (the font I used is called Noodle). Then using a light box and a water soluble pen, trace the letters onto the tree skirt.
Hand embroider, using a simple backstitch.

When finished with the embroidery, layer with batting and backing and quilt as desired. I just did a stitch in the ditch.

Cut 6 pieces of ribbon about 10″ long.  Pin to opening of tree skirt. Sew in place before you bind it.

Sew on binding, making sure not to catch ribbon in binding.

Now onto the table runner. This runner is LONG. It is 14″x 105″. I wanted a long runner to fit my big table. If you want it shorter just elimante some of the blocks.

To begin:

From your honeybun, collect 5 strips each of 4 different color ways. I used the blues, greens, reds & browns.

Arrange how you like,  and sew togther with 1/4″ seam.  Press seam to one side.

Cut strip into 3,  14″ pieces, cutting off selvage edges.
Repeat with the other 3 colors.

You will have 3 blocks each of 4 different colors (for a total of 12 blocks).
Sew 2 white jelly roll strips togteher. Cut into 14″ pieces (same as you did for the honeybun pieces, remember jelly roll strips are wider, 2 1/2″ wide).
Repeat this 4 times so that you have a total of 10 white blocks each 2 strips tall x 14″ wide.
Cut 2 14″ pieces from 1 jelly roll strip.
Note: I quilt on an embroidery machine so I  don’t have much control over where the stitches go, if you are free motion quilting this, BEFORE you sew your blocks together, skip to the applique steps.  It will be easier to applique the white blocks before they are sewn with the colored blocks. I think it would look nice to do echo quilting around the shapes on the white blocks.
Sew blocks together.  This is the color arrangement that I used, but you can change yours to your taste (it would also look nice going dark-light)
Row 1:   1 single- 14″ white jelly roll strip
Row 2:   Brown, honey bun block
Row 3:   White, jelly roll block
Row 4:   Red, honey bun block
Row 5:  White, jelly roll block
Row 6:   Green, honey bun block
Row 7:   White, jelly roll block
Row 8:   Blue, honey bun block
Row 9:   White
Row 10: Red
Row 11: White
Row 12: Green
Row 13: White
Row 14: Blue
Row 15: White
Row 16: Red
Row 17: White
Row 18: Green
Row 19: White
Row 20: Blue
Row 21: White
Row 22: Brown
Row 23: 1 – 14″ Jelly roll strip.
You will have 1 brown block left over, you can use it if you need to make your runner longer.

Layer runner with batting and backing and quilt as desired, I quilted mine with a interlocking circle pattern.
Next applique…
To cut the words out you can use the computer font method here.
Or, if you ahve an electronic cutting machine (like a cricut),  you can use this method. You can also buy a chipboard alphabet at a scrapbook store that you like and trace those letters.

Cut the words out with your machine 3 3/4″ tall. (you will need the words, cheer, merry, bright, joy, jingle), then flip the page over so the letters are backwards.  Trace onto a piece of Heat n Bond light.
Roughly cut the letters out, and adhere (with your iron) to the back of your turnover pieces. (you could also use a charm pack, I just had a turnover on hand).

Cut out, and iron onto your runner.
This is how I laid out the applique on my runner: The color in parentheses is the color I cut the applique out of the turnover pieces. (the applique is only on the white blocks)
Order of the white blocks: (refer to photos above).
1:  trees (green)
2: “merry” (red)
3:  ornaments (blue)
4: “bright” (blue)
5:  peppermints (red/white)
6: “cheer” (blue)
7:  holly leaves (green)
8: “joy” (red)
9:   trees (green)
10: “jingle” (brown)
For the applique shapes, I used various clipart, for the holly leaves I used Camille’s pattern that she posted on moda bake shop last month. The peppermint swirls are also from that pattern, reduced 50%.
Iron the appliques onto the runner. Stitch around each with a straight stitch. I just used raw edge applique with a straight stitch. I am okay if it frays (I actually prefer that look for this project).

Bind using leftover honey bun strips. (you will need 5 strips)
Sew buttons for the holly berries.

1 runner and 1 tree skirt

Gobble Gobble Challenge Winner

We are happy to announce the Gobble Gobble Challenge Winner!
Broobar wins the Grand Prize.. yeah!

And Pat Sloan ( has given 2 prizes to ‘Jewel’s Arm Candy’

and another prize to ‘TheaM1′

We would like to thank All the people who entered quilts in the Gobble Gobble Challenge.

You can view them over at the Flickr group ( )

Jelly Roll Cover Up

Like so many quilters today, I have an extension table attached to my sewing machine. So I designed a sewing machine cover using a Jelly Roll that can be adapted to fit any machine with or without an extension table.

While my sewing machine is average in size, every machine has different measurements so please measure your sewing machine before you cut your strips.

Featured Fabric Collection – Aster Manor by Three Sisters for Moda

One Moda Jelly Roll
3/4 yard backing
20” by 34” batting

1/2 yard binding
Six buttons

After measuring my sewing machine from end to end to determine the number of strips required, I chose 8 Jelly Roll strips which when sewn together make 16 ½”. Depending on the size of your sewing machine you may need more or fewer strips for your cover. Measure across the top of your sewing machine to see if 16 ½” will cover it nicely.
Now you will need to measure how long the strips should be for your sewing machine. Measure from the tabletop over the high point on your machine and back down to the tabletop. For my machine, two measurements were required since I have an extension table. I cut five strips 22 1/2” long and three strips 31” long. I sewed the 8 strips together, and then sandwiched them with batting and backing and quilted a little stipple.

Trim away the excess batting and make bias binding to bind the Jelly Roll Cover Up.
To make the ties, cut two 10” strips from each of 6 different Jelly Roll strips.

Organise them into six sets of two strips. Place each set right sides together and sew ¼” around the edge, rounding the corners and leaving a 2” opening on one of the long sides. Turn them right side out through the 2” opening and press. Whip stitch the openings closed.
Place the Jelly Roll Cover Up over your sewing machine and position and pin the ties in place. Pin one set of ties on the front end and two at the back end. Attach the six ties in place, securing each of them with a button.
I hope you like this fun little project. Remember to measure your machine carefully to be sure you have the correct measurements.
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Jelly Roll Cover Up designed by Margot Languedoc