30-Minute Gift: Patchwork Wine Bag

Hey, gang! I can’t tell you how thrilled I am to bring you (TADA!) my first ever project for Moda Bake Shop. My name is Mary Miller and I have a little table in the blogateria that I call Spoolhardy Girl . I hope you’ll come by and visit when you are finished here. (Pssst! Can you smell the giveaway I’ve got cooking? MMMM Modalicious, if you get my drift.)

I don’t have to remind you that the holidays are quickly approaching. Parties, cookie exchanges and chaos will ensue.  I am horrible about planning ahead for hostess gifts. I usually grab a bottle of wine and call it a day.  I happen to think wine is a perfectly lovely gift. If you ever want to give me wine, I’ll be more than happy to accept. But let’s gussy that bottle up a little, shall we?

One Mini Charm Pack of a Moda fabric of your choice. I used Marmalade by Bonnie and Camille.

One 2 1/2″ x 12.5″ (or even a bit more) strip coordinating fabric. I used Bella Solid Sunshine.
One 5″x 5″ square coordinating solid (also Bella Solid Sunshine)
One sharp #2 pencil

One 5″ x 5″ Fusible Fleece
One 5″ x 5″ square of freezer paper
Dritz Elastic Threading Tool
1/4″ presser foot (Highly recommended)

All seams are 1/4″

Let’s begin! Choose 25 individual squares from your mini charm pack and line them up in a 5 x 5 square grid like so:

Sew your rows together this way:

This picture is probably unnecessary, but I just learned how to make
the little arrows and I wanted to show off.

Press your seam allowances open.

Next, sew your rows together, and press your seams open.

Take a minute to admire this pretty panel you’ve made, then set it aside for a bit.

Next we are going to work on your bag bottom. No, not your baggy bottom. I have my own baggy bottom I need to work on, I can’t help you there! Anyway, on to the bottom of your bag!
This is where your #2 pencil and your freezer paper comes into play.
Place your pencil so that it is flat up against your bottle of wine, and the point is headed directly downward.

Thank you to Mr. Wonderful for taking this picture!

Trace all the way around the bottle. Now, you could skip the freezer paper step and do this directly onto your fabric, but I have a heck of a time getting the pencil to write on the fabric, so I do it this way. I also don’t recommend using a washable fabric pen because they tend to be wider than a pencil and that puts the mark too far away from the bottle, making your bottom too big. We all know we don’t want bottoms that are too big!

Once you have your circle made, take a ruler and mark a dotted line 1/4″ away from your original line.

Bring your freezer paper template, your fusible fleece (if using) and your 5″ x 5″ piece of fabric to your ironing board. I really like the idea of using the fleece in this step because it will give your bag bottom added support and a little bit of cushioning (I’m not even going to go for the joke here. It’s just too easy).

Place the freezer paper template shiny side down onto your fabric. If you are using a printed fabric, you want the right side facing up. Press with a hot iron for about 10-15 seconds. turn this unit over so that the fabric is facing up and the paper is on the ironing board. Place your square of fusible fleece adhesive (bumpy) side down and press with a steamy iron for about 15-20 seconds.

You should now have a unit that looks like this:

Freezer paper fused to fabric which is fused to fleece.

Cut around your dotted line and remove the freezer paper. Set aside.

Next we are going to make a band for the top of your bag. Take your 2 1/2″ strip of fabric fold and press it in half lengthwise, WRONG sides together.

Bring your strip back to the panel that you made and lay it out open so that about an inch hangs off of each side.

Fold the short end of the fabric back on itself so that the fold is just barely over the edge of your panel.

Do the same for the other end of your strip. Press at the folds.

Bring your strip to the machine and top stitch both ends barely 1/8″ away from the fold.

Trim excess from the seam allowances.

Please forgive my nasty thread tangles. I was having an argument with my
machine this day!

Fold lengthwise again wrong sides together and press.  Place your folded strip piece right sides together on top of your panel piece with raw edges aligned making sure that you have a bit of the top stitched ends sticking off the ends of your panel. Sew together. Press seam toward the panel.

If you want to give your bag a nice finished look top stitch about 1/8″ away from the seam you just made. This is completely up to you, and will only add decorative appeal to your bag.

Fold your panel in half right sides together and pin raw edges.

Begin stitching down this long side just below the seam created when you sewed your band on. You don’t want to sew the band shut, you’re going to need it in a minute! Back stitch at the beginning and ending of your stitching.

How cute is this sleeve!? If I could sew a shirt I would totally make a patchwork shirt just like this. Only I can’t, sew a shirt. I just took this picture to demonstrate that you have now sewn a nice tube.

Remember that circle we made with the fusible fleece? It’s time to sew it onto your tube. Yes. You are going to sew a circle onto a tube. I’m here to tell you, this is NOT hard. You can do this. Trust me. Take a deep breath and relax your shoulders. You are going to feel like a sewing goddess when I’m finished with you!

You want to pin your circle to the bottom (not the band end) of your bag. Pin it right sides together so that the white fusible fleece is facing out. Make sure that the edges of your circle are lined up neatly with the edges of the bag. I find that 8 pins placed at equal intervals around the circle are about right.

The key to getting this right is to go slowly. Place the bag under the presser foot. This is where a 1/4″foot comes in really handy. Make sure the edge of your fabric is nestled right up against the guide of your foot and slooowwwly begin to stitch. After 4 or 5 stitches lift your foot keeping the needle down, and realign the fabric so that it stays right up against your guide. As you remove your pins, make sure that your fabric edge is still lined up with your fleece edge. Also make sure that the fabric under the foot is laying flat. That’s it. Just work your way around and you’ll be fine, promise!
Cut the excess seam allowance to about 1/8″.

There. You did it! Give yourself a little pat on the back.

We’re in the home stretch now! We just need a pretty tie.

Take the remaining mini squares from your charm pack and sew them together in one long strip.
Press seams open.

Fold your strip in half lengthwise with right sides together.

Sew down the long side and across ONE of the short sides of this strip.

Now we need to turn this tube inside out. There are tools that you can buy to help do this, but I find that a wooden skewer or dowel works just fine. Place one end of the skewer against the sewn end of your tube. I like to place the other end of the skewer on my tummy, or on my work table. Then just begin to slip the fabric down over the skewer.

Continue easing the fabric down the skewer until it is completely right side out. Then press out the wrinkles.

Remember that Dritz Elastic Threader? I have to tell you, I have never once put elastic in one of my projects, but I use this little gizmo all the time. It was a total impulse purchase at Joann’s one day, and it has become one of my go to notions. We are going to use it to get the tie through the band at the top of the bag. If you don’t have an elastic threader, don’t sweat. Just use a large safety pin.

Thread the UNSEWN end of your tie through the top notch on the threader. OR pin your safety pin to the end. Put the threader into the hole on your band and work the fabric through until it comes out the other end. Tug on the tie so that it hangs out of the band equally on both sides.

Let’s tidy up the un-sewn end of the tie. Tuck the end in approximately 1/4″ and topstitch at 1/8″.

Done! Sit back and enjoy your handy work. Maybe pour yourself a glass of wine. Just not from the bottle you’re giving away!

One pretty darn cute wine bag that fits a standard wine bottle.  If you like to give your wine away by the jug or the box, hey, go for it! I don’t judge but, sadly, this project won’t work for you. May I suggest yarn bombing?

 Mary Miller

Nancy’s Mysterious Quilt

I don’t think I ever outgrew the Nancy Drew books. There’s something about spooky old attics and moss covered mansions and secret passages that I can’t resist. Sadly, I grew up in a brand new house with absolutely nothing mysterious about it.  When my husband and I bought our 1920 farmhouse, I was absolutely giddy to have a real attic with stairs. This place has all kinds of secrets!

Come visit me at my blog,  Michelle’s Romantic Tangle. I’ve got some projects inspired by the Nancy Drew books and I’m having a giveaway for four of the Nancy Drew books shown on the quilt. I’ll even tell you where we found a moss covered mansion to photograph the quilt in front of!

1 Layer Cake Get a Clue with Nancy Drew
4 1/2 yards white Bella Solid for background
1 panel Nancy Drew Book Covers
3/4 yard binding fabric
6 yards backing fabric

From the white background fabric, cut the following:

82 6 1/2″ blocks

63 10 x 2 1/2″ strips

Remove the mostly white prints from the layer cake and save for another project. They won’t contrast with the background and will detract from the effect of the Irish Chain blocks.

Cut 27 pieces of your layer cake into four 10 x 2 1/2″ strips.

To make the nine patch blocks, sew the 2 1/2 x 10″ strips into sets of three. Make 21 sets with print center strips and 42 sets with background center strips. Press.

Cut each  into four strips.

Assemble into nine patch blocks. Since the print squares are so small, I let the directional prints fall every which way.

Assemble your quilt top as shown in the final picture — in fifteen rows of eleven blocks with nine patch blocks at each corner. To cut down on the bulk you’ll have to deal with while appliqueing the book covers, I suggest leaving off the top two and bottom two rows until the books are in place.

Applique the six book covers from the panel onto the quilt using your preferred method of applique.

Attach the top two and bottom two rows.

Quilt, bind, and snuggle up!

one 66 x 90″ quilt

Michelle Marr

The Crinkle Quilt

Hi! I’m Palak from Make It Handmade! My blog focuses on simplifying handmade projects and techniques with tutorials ranging from no sew projects to serger how to’s. This little quilt is no exception!

This quilt is full of color and crinkles that babies will love. At the same time, it’s a forgiving pattern that comes together in a few hours and doesn’t require any precision piecing.  

The finished quilt is is about 40 inches square– my favorite size baby quilt as both a mother and quilter. The size is perfect for covering a newborn or as a play mat for an infant, and doesn’t take much room in the wash. For a toddler it’s a great size for strollers and car seats, and is still large enough to be a lap quilt for a child or adult. As a quilter, I love that I don’t have to piece the backing and it’s easy to fit in the small throat of my home sewing machine.

Quilt Top:
1  Simply Color Layer Cake
1 Yard Focus Print (I chose White Aquatic Blue)
1.5 Yard  (I chose White Sweet Tangerine Chevron)
1/2 Yard (I chose White Lime Aqua)

The Crinkle Quilt alternates 5 inch strips of smooth fabric with pieced  ruched strips.  The texture makes errors in piecing unnoticeable  making this an easy, quick quilt that’s done without much fuss. 
The colored strips in the diagram below are pieced ruffled; while the white ones are plain. The twist is the ruffling! With the tips you’ll learn in this tutorial, the ruffles will be a snap too. 

Cut List (for quilt top only): 

  • Cut your focus fabric into 5 5.5″ by WOF and set aside
  • Next, pick 24 squares out of the layer cake and cut them in half to make 48 5″ by 10″ rectangles. 

Piecing The Strips

Divide the 48 rectangles into 4 groups of 12. Sew each group together end to end making 4 long strips as shown below. (Chain piecing makes this step go fast).
Next, place a pin in one end of each long strip. I know this seems like a small thing, but I promise it will help with the ruffling later. From this point onward, whenever we sew, we will always start with the pinned edge going into the machine first. This will keep the ruffles looking even and keep the seam allowances from flipping up. 

Move to the ironing board and press all the seam allowances to one side away from end with the pin. Once you’ve done all four strips, you’ll be ready to ruffle!


We are going to use the tension method to ruffle. This method is ideal for ruffling long strips that might need slight adjustments at the end. If you are having trouble with this method, try using another ruffling method.

Change your sewing machine to have a long stitch length and high tension.

We’ll still need to add even more tension to get the fabric to ruffle enough to be the same size as the focus fabric strips. To do that, I hold the thread down with one finger while sewing.

Here’s a close up of what I’m doing. You can also lightly pinch the thread through your fingers if that’s easier. Just be sure to do this between the thread spool and tension disks as shown in the picture below.

While ruffling, make sure to pull out a long tail of both bobbin and top thread at either end of each strip. I normally use 10-12 inches to be on the safe side.

Starting with the pinned end of the strip, sew along one edge using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.You’ll see your strip ruffle up along one edge.

Then, starting with the pinned edge again, sew along the opposite edge. This will mean you’ll have to flip the strip over to the wrong side.

Do this until you have 4 strips ruffled down each side. Don’t forget to change your sewing machine settings to normal.

Now, compare each strip with the focus fabric strips that we set aside. Pull on the top sewing thread to adjust the strip to be the same length as the focus fabric strips. I also like make sure the pieced sections look like squares instead of trapezoids .

Now for the most important step: Press the ruffled strips well and top stitch down each side of the ruffled using a quarter inch seam allowance and normal stitch length. This will stabilize your ruffled strip and keep it from shifting while you sew.  Now you can remove those pins at the ends of your strips!

Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew the strips together as normal, alternating a ruffled strip with a plain strip.

Your top is complete and ready to be quilted!

Finishing up 

Quilt your Crinkle Quilt with any pattern you like. I recommend not quilting the ruffled strips–  they poof up beautifully in the wash, and are so much fun for little fingers to play in. Trim, square and bind the quilt just as you would any other quilt.

40” by 44” quilt. Covers one sleepy child.

Thank you for having me over at the Moda Bakeshop! Stop by at Make it Handmade to see more about this quilt and other projects.

Palak Shah

60-Minute Gift: Bake ‘n’ Fry Dividers

The holiday season is approaching and now is the time to start sewing and making gifts for friends and families. Today I will be sharing a quick project which can be made in under an hour to brighten up your kitchen drawers and protect your non stick cooking surfaces.

1 x Summerville Layer Cake
1 yd Bella solid snow 9900-11
1 yd Flannel
Light weight iron on pellon
Fusible web

Baking Tray Liners ( 30 mins )

  • Measure the baking tray. Record the measurement. For the purpose of this tutorial I will be making a liner to suit a 10″ x 15″ base. If you have have a smaller or larger tray, add 1/2″ to the measured length and width.

  • From the solid cut 12 x 1 1/2″ strips
  • From the print cut 12 x 1 1/2″ strips

  • Alternate the solid and print and sew strips together
  • Finished block is 8 1/2″ x 10″
  • Make 3 blocks

  • Cut each block twice on the diagonal

  • Sew 2 triangles together to make a half square triangle (HST). Repeat with remaining triangles.
  • Square each HST to 5 1/2″

  • Arrange in 2 rows of 3 blocks each
  • Sew together
  • Finished top measures 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″

  • From the solid cut 1 – 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ piece
  • From the iron on pellon cut 1 – 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ piece
  • Press the pellon to the wrong side of the solid piece
  • Place the solid and top piece right sides together. Pellon will be on the outside.
  • Sew 1/4″ from edge leaving a 4″ gap at the top for turning.
  • Trim the corners and turn out. Use a stiletto or pointed object to push out seams and corners.
  • Fold under opening 1/4″ and top stitch 1/8″ around edge of liner.

  • Trace the letters ‘BAKE’ (these can be found in the Printer Friendly file at the bottom of this post) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
  • Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
  • Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
  • Position and press onto front of liner
  • Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

Hint: These liners are meant to be scrappy in nature. There are unlimited block designs and scrappy settings that could be used as long as the unfinished top is 1/2″ longer and wider than the base of the tray.

Frying Pans ( 30 mins)

  •  Measure the diameter of the pan including the sides.  Record the measurement.
  • Cut strips from the Layer Cake and make a piece measuring 10″ x 48″
  • Using a 60 degree triangle ruler or the 60 degree marking on your ruler, cut 6 triangles from the strip
  • Sew 3 triangles together. Repeat.

  • Join the two rows together.

  • Cut a circle ( using a compass / pencil and string / large plate ) 1″ larger than the diameter, including sides, of your pan. For example, my pan measured 15 1/2″ from side to side. I would cut a circle with diameter of 16 1/2″
N.B The hexagon made from the 6 triangles can accommodate a circle up to 17″ in diameter.

  •  From the flannel cut a circle the same size as the top

  • Place the flannel and top piece wrong sides together.
  • Sew 1/4″ from edge using a shorter stitch
  • Using pinking shears, cut around edge 1/8″ away from stitching.
N.B these liners do not require pellon
Two options for appliqué 

  • Cut a piece 6″ x 10″ from print
  • Stitch to centre of liner
  • Trace the letters ‘FRY’ ( these can be found in the PDF format for this project ) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
  • Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
  • Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
  • Position and press onto 6″ x 10″ piece
  • Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

  • Cut a 5 1/2″ circle from layer cake
  • Stitch to centre of liner
  • Trace the letters ‘FRY’ ( these can be found in the PDF format for this project ) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
  • Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
  • Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
  • Position and press onto liner centre
  • Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

Two baking and fry pan liners to dress up your kitchen drawers and protect your non stick surfaces.

Jane Davidson

30-Minute Gift: Business Card or Mini Wallet

 Hi! This is Kim with Lily Patch Quilts. I am sew happy to be back with another quick and fun tutorial just in time for holiday gift giving.

2 coordinating fat quarters 
1/8 yard heavy weight fusible interfacing
2 – 1/2″-5/8″sets of heavy duty snaps
Snap setting tools 
Marking tool
Medium size spool of thread (rounding corners)

Cut 2  – 4 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ from each fat quarter (2 lining, 2 outer wallet)
Cut – 4 – 4 1/2″x 7 1/2″ heavy weight interfacing 

Step 1
Iron interfacings to the wrong sides of all fabric pieces. Take the spool of thread and place at the corner where your flap will be. Mark around one side of the spool and cut on the marked line to create a rounded corner.

Here are the lining and outer pieces with the flap trimmed.

Step 2
Take the outer wallet piece with the straight side, use the socket and place a mark 1″ from the straight edge. Punch or cut out the hole. Assemble the socket and cap post according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Hammer  until the stud and post is in place. I used the tools that came with the snap plus a craft hammer. Make sure to place the snaps on a really hard surface like hardwood or tile.
Step 3
Place the lining and outer piece right sides together. 
Sew all the way around, leaving an opening large enough to turn. Clip corners.

Step 4
Turn right side out. Press to remove wrinkles. Make sure the opening is pressed even with the side seams.

Step 5
Mark a line 2 1/2″ from the straight edge.
Fold the straight edge up to form a pocket. Pin and sew around 3 sides, starting at the bottom corner and sewing around the flap to the opposite corner.

Step 6
Fold the flap down and press to make an indention on the flap. Mark a hole in the center of the indentation, cut or punch out the hole. 

Insert the socket and cap into the flap. Following the manufacturer’s instructions. Hammer the socket and cap until it’s in place. Press the flap area avoiding the snap to help the flap to lay flat.

Your business card/mini wallet is finished. 

This will make 2 business card or mini wallet. I called this a business card/mini wallet because it’s so versatile. It will hold money, business cards or gift cards. This will make a great stocking stuffer.

I would love to have you post your business card/mini wallet in the MBS’ flickr group and Lily Patch Quilts flickr group.

Kim Sherrod

Q&A with Oda May: The Holidays

{fabric shown is Dear Mr. Claus by Cosmo Cricket}

Join Oda May today as she answers reader questions about the holidays! 

Dear Oda May,

The holidays really snuck up on me this year. I’m having the family over for Thanksgiving and my dreams of handmade tablescapes are crashing around me. Are there any projects I can whip up before T-Day?

Turkey-ed Out in Tennessee

Dear Turkey-ed,

Do I have a project for you! Julie of Jaybird Quilts shared a lovely embroidered napkin tutorial with us one year {Family Traditions}…I suggest you simplify her project and make a single embroidered item with the word “thankful.” You can even use a store-bought table runner and embellish with some charm squares or a jelly roll binding to sass it up. But no matter how your table turns out, remember that its the people around it that make the holiday.

Thankful for You,

Dear Oda May,

I have so been enjoying the Just in Time Gifts series! I’ve already made a couple of little things to give to friends and family, but I’m really hoping to make a quilt for my sister. She’s had a tough year and I think a handmade quilt is the perfect gift to tell her how much I’ve been thinking of her. Is it too late for me to get started?

Last-Minute Quilter in Laramie

Dear Last-Minute,

There are 35 days left until the big gift exchange. It’s going to be a challenge, but it’s not impossible for you to make a quilt for your sister. Check out a few easy quilt recipes:

Easy Strawberry Fields Quilt
Easy as Cake Quilt
Charming Rag Quilt
Four Square Layer Cake Quilt

Those recipes all have minimal cutting and should sew up in a weekend. If you are not a zippy quilter, you might want to go with the Charming Rag Quilt, since it’s a quilt as you go method.

Good luck! You can do it.

Merry and Bright,

120-Minute Gift: Cinnamon Spice Tree Skirt/Table Topper

Hi there, it’s Cathy Victor from “Me and My Mum Quilting”, and I’m pleased to be bringing you my second Moda Bake Shop tutorial.  The great thing about this pattern is its versatility, you could swap out any 9″(9-patch) blocks for those that I’ve chosen.  Also you can make two tree skirts or table toppers from each layer cake.

So grab your favorite holiday layer cake and let’s get started…I am using the Blackbird Designs collection “Cinnamon Spice.”

As always I love to hear from you with your comments, questions and pictures.  You can find me at {Me and My Mum Quilting}

1 Cinnamon Spice Layer Cake (2700LC)
3/4 yd red fabric (2700-12)
1-1/2 yd Bella Solid (9900-60) {This includes enough for the table topper backing.}
Backing: 1 yd (2705-12)
Binding: 1/2 yd (2706-12)This is enough for both.

Decorative Buttons

For the tree skirt you need the following:

4 layer cake squares (a)
1 LC square (b)

2 LC squares (c)
2 LC squares (d)
1 LC square (g) middle square

4 LC squares (e)
4 LC squares (f)
Approx. 1/4 yd of yardage

approx 1/2 yd of yardage

Cutting Instructions

Lay out the 4 (a) green squares and cut as follows:

Cut two {2} 2″ x 10″ strips from the bottom of the square

From the remaining piece, cut two {2} 2 5/8″ strips.

Subcut the previous 2 5/8″ strips into four {4} 2 5/8″ squares. Set aside the cut pieces until later; the leftover piece is not needed.

Next…from the Green square (b), cut two {2} 2 5/8″ strips…..

Subcut into four {4} 2 5/8″ squares. The rest of the fabric is not needed.

The Beige (c) blocks are for your hourglass blocks. From each of your two Beige (c) squares…cut from two {2} 4 1/4″ squares. The rest you do not need.

From your two Beige (d) squares…..Cut from each Beige (d) square three {3} 2 5/8″ strips.

Subcut into a total of 18: 2 5/8″ squares (9 of each fabric. You only need 16 so 2 are scrap. You do not need the rest of the fabric.

Go ahead and grab your 4 Red (e) squares…From the Red (e) squares, cut two {2}: 2 3/8″ strips.

Subcut into 8: 2 3/8″ squares (for each print). You will have a total of 32 squares. (8 in 4 different patterns.) You will not need the rest of the fabric.

The Red (f) squares are for the flying geese blocks and bricks. From your 4 Red (f) squares…cut a 2″x10″ strip from the bottom.

Then, from the remaining piece of each square, cut three {3} 2″ x 8″ strips.
There is a approx 4″ x 8″ piece leftover that you will not need.

Cut the bottom (2″ x 10″) strip and one of the 2″ x 8″ strip into four {4} 2″ x 3 1/2″ rectangles (bricks). Do this for all 4 prints for a total of 16 bricks. Set aside the remaining 2″ x 8″ strips until later. The rest you will not use.

Now grab the Red yardage. Cut two {2} 3 1/2″ strips. Subcut into four {4} 3 1/2″ x 10 5/8″ rectangles and four {4} 3 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles. (I cut out an extra 4 for the table topper, but if you aren’t making it don’t bother.)

From the White yardage, cut two {2} 2″ strips, one {1} 3 1/2″ strip, one {1} 3 3/4″ strip, and three {3} 2 3/8″ strips.

Subcut the 2″ strips into 9″ lengths.

Subcut the 3 1/2″ strip into sixteen {16} 2″ x 3 1/2″ bricks.

Subcut the 3 3/4″ strip into four {4} 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ rectangles.

Subcut the 2 3/8″ strips(3) into forty {40} 2 3/8″ squares.

Grab your remaining layer cake square (g) and cut it to: 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″.

Assembling the Blocks 

So the first blocks to assemble are the flying geese blocks. Grab the 2″ x 3 1/2″ white bricks and the red bricks and strips that you cut from (f) LC squares. Also set aside the white 2″ strips and the green 2″ strips from (a). They will be coming up shortly.

The following pictures show how the blocks progress from beginning to completion….
You should now cut your red 2″ x 8″ strips into 2″ squares. You need 8 squares for each block and there are 4 blocks to make this tree skirt. That makes for 32 red squares all together.

Draw a diagonal line from corner to opposite corner. This is your sew line.

Place the red square on top of the white brick, and sew along the diagonal line, cut off the corner, leaving a 1/4″ seam. Press toward the red fabric. Place a matching red square on the opposite corner so that the line creates a point with the other red corner and sew. Cut off the corner, leaving a 1/4″ seam and press toward the red. You now have a flying geese block that measures 2″ x 3 1/2″.

Continue until you have completed 4 flying geese blocks of each pattern. Match these up with the bricks of the same color and pattern.

Sew the flying geese to the bricks so the seam crosses over the point of the flying geese block.
Press away from the flying geese block.

Next up green/white 4-patch blocks…..Grab the white and green 2″ strips and sew them together into twosie strips. Press toward the greens.

Cut the twosie strip into 2″ sections. Spin 1 section so that opposite colors are aligned. Matching seams, sew into 4-patch blocks. Press in either direction.

You will have a total of sixteen {16} 4-patch blocks (4 of each pattern).

Next up the hourglass blocks….Grab the 4 Gold (c) squares. They measure 4 1/4″ square and we are going to cut along both diagonal lines (from corner to opposite corner; in both directions)

Lay out the 2 patterns in the configuration shown in the picture.We will be sewing down the short side of these triangles first…..

Sew them all the same way, with the same fabric on top of the opposite color on the bottom. They all go through the same direction, do this until you have 8 pairs of triangles.

Press toward the darker of the 2 triangles.

This photo shows how the block progresses from a twosie triangle…Matched up with another… Matching seams and sewing to form an hourglass block. Press either direction …Trim off the dog ears, the block should measure 3 1/2″square.

You now have all the components needed to complete the first block…Match each pattern of red to a pattern of green and create an hourglass block as shown in the photo.

Lay out the above squares into the design shown in the photo. This will make 4 star blocks.
Sew them row by row and then press. I pressed away from my flying geese blocks.

This photo shows how they are pressed.

Go ahead and sew the rows into the final block, nesting seams and pinning if necessary. Press away from the middle row.You have now completed 4 blocks.

Grab the red 2 3/8″ squares and cut diagonally once from corner to opposite corner.
This will give you 64 triangles. (16 of each pattern.)

Do the same for the white 2 3/8″ squares…There are 80 triangles when you are finished.

Match up the red triangles with the beige 2 5/8 ” squares that were cut earlier. You can see in the photo that my green 2 5/8″ squares will be matched up with the white triangles.

Lay out the beige squares and red triangles, like the photo shows.

Make sure that when you line up the triangles you have equal amount of “dogears” on both sides. Go ahead and sew down the first side. Sew the opposite side the same way. Press the triangles toward the beige square. Trim off the dog ears and continue sewing the triangles to the remaining sides.

Press either way and trim off the dog ears. The photo shows how the block progresses.
Continue until you have completed all the red/ beige blocks.They should measure 3 1/2″ square.

Repeat the process with the green squares and white triangles. This photo shows how they progress.

You now have 4 piles of red/beige blocks and 4 piles of white/green blocks. Set them aside for now, we will return to them later.

Now take the red 3 1/2″ x 10 5/8″ rectangles, and carefully fold them in half lengthwise and press to make a visible crease. Next, cut a diagonal line from the bottom right corner to the crease line like in the photo.Then do the other side from the bottom left corner to the crease line (point).

With the white 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ rectangles, make 2 piles of 2. Cut diagonally once from bottom right to top left for the 1st pile.And cut the opposite direction (from bottom left to top right) for the other pile, like the photo shows.

Layout the pieces as shown in the photo.

Line up the white triangle with the red triangle point showing a little past the white, as shown in the photo.Your sewing machine needle should come down exactly where the 2 fabrics line up.

This photo shows how the blocks progress. Press towards the red fabric. Place the opposite white triangle in the same manner and press toward the red fabric.Trim off the dog ears.

The block should now measure: 3 1/2″ x 9 1/2″

Do this with all 4 red triangles. Set aside for now.

Next up grab the 4 red rectangles that measure: 3 3/4″ x 5 5/8″ and cut 2 diagonally from: top right to bottom left and,Cut 2 diagonally from: top left to bottom right.Set aside for now.

Remember these blocks? We will be assembling them into rows for the next step…Lay them out like in the photo, I put identical squares into the same block.(except for the central green/white square. it is from the extra pile of squares.) It is going to be the middle square in all 4 blocks.

Go ahead and sew them into rows.Make sure to match the points where they meet. You can pin them if you like.

This photo shows how I pressed the rows:I always pressed away from the white squares.Continue sewing all the squares into rows. BUT DO NOT sew them into larger blocks.

They are sewn together differently than normal to achieve the shape of the final tree skirt.

Next grab 1 of each pattern, the row shown in the photo….

And the red triangles we cut earlier.Lay them out like the photo shows with the flat side of the red triangles aligned with the bottom of the row of blocks.Sew them together and press toward the red triangles.

Next, grab the remaining rows of blocks….Lay them out exactly as the photo shows, making sure the fabric patterns match.Sew the rows together, making sure the bottom block is “pointing” to the other 2 rows.And that any points are aligned. Pin if they need a bit of help.Press toward the middle row.

You have now completed the other 4 blocks and are ready to assemble the tree skirt.

Grab the 4 blocks finished here and the 4 star blocks finished earlier and the Layer cake square that was trimmed down to 9 1/2″ and find a space to lay them out.

Lay the assorted blocks out, like the photo shows, moving the blocks around until you like the way they look.Sew them into rows, pinning where seams and points line up.Press away from the star blocks and central square. (doing this ensures the seams will nest nicely).

Next sew the rows into the nearly finished tree skirt, and get the remaining rows ready to add as borders.

Attach the border pieces to the sides, lining up the square in a square blocks and pin in place.
Sew the borders in place and press.

Now get ready to trace the hole for the tree stand.  I used a bowl for my template, you can use whatever makes the hole the size you like. Trace around the hole and straight through the middle of the tree skirt.(this bi-sects the square in a square blocks).

Quilt as desired…may I also recommend stitching around the circle you traced and down both sides of where the opening will be. This will ensure the tree skirt doesn’t shift while you are binding it.
Carefully cut the traced line for the opening and around the circle.

Your tree skirt should now look like this….

Get your buttons and ribbon out…..Place your buttons on the tree skirt, to decide where you want them. With a pencil, make marks on both sides of the opening for button and loop placement.

Cut your ribbon to 3″ lengths….

 Sew them in place along the opening with a scant 1/4″ seam that will be hidden in the binding.
I also pinned them down so they wouldn’t get caught up in the binding.

Prepare your bias binding strips and proceed to sew it around the tree skirt.

You may need to stop sewing and re-position the binding when rounding corners.
This is how it looks with the binding on.

Now I just sewed it down to the backside.( just make sure that you don’t sew the loops into the binding when you do this).

With the binding done, sew the buttons in the position you marked on the opposite side from the loops. You’ve completed the tree skirt!!!

Next up a table topper from the rest of the layer cake and fabric. It is the same pattern, just don’t cut out a circle and opening. I will list the substitutions for the fabrics, but follow the cutting and assembly instructions listed at the beginning of the tutorial by the letters in ().

Table topper substitutions…..
Pinks: 4 layer cake squares (a) (by cutting 5 – 2 5/8″ squares from each pink you eliminate step (b).) Leftover Red: 2 LC squares (c) hourglass blocks.
Approx 1/4 yd of yardage (4 – 3 3/4″x5 5/8″ and 4 – 3 1/2″x 10 5/8″ cut as per earlier instructions.)
Green: 2 LC squares (d)
Beige: 4 LC squares (e) 4 LC squares (f)

* For the whites, follow the cutting instructions below, but the assembly instructions above*
2 Identical LC squares(4- 3 3/4″x 5 5/8″ rectangles)
4 LC squares (4– 2 3/8″ squares from each cut once diagonally to yield 32 triangles. Some of this can be leftover from previous.)
6″ yardage ( this section is for the 4-patch blocks and the flying geese units in the star block)
1 LC square for middle block (g) cut to 9.5″ square

Assemble the blocks as per the instructions for the tree skirt. But don’t cut the hole in the middle square or the slit for an opening. Quilt and bind as desired….

A Cinnamon Spice Tree skirt that measures approx. 33″ square. Perfect for any traditional Christmas setting.

A Cinnamon Spice Table Topper to compliment your Holiday decor. It also measures approx 33″ .

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that you will make one for yourself and maybe some loved ones too. Have a happy and healthy holiday season.

Season’s Greetings!

Cathy Victor
{Me and My Mum Quilting}