Summer Swing Skirt

This swingy summer skirt is made with a one-size fits most design, but can easily be adapted to plus sized by adding a square or made smaller by removing a square from the top layer of the skirt. It’s just that easy! Look for easy size changes in italics.

1 Santorini layer cake
1 Santorini Jelly Roll
1/2 yard of any Santorini fabric
1 package of 1 inch no roll elastic

This skirt is made in three layers. The first layer is 5 pieces of your layer cake. Seam allowance is 1/4 inch through out this project.
Pam: Just grab any five!
Elizabeth: Uh, no. Of course you don’t grab “any five”. You need to stare at all of them for awhile…stripes are slimming, but you can’t have nothing but stripes…hey this one with the green I think is my favorite so it has to be on the front…gotta get the combination of colors just right…so keep agonizing until Pam shoots you a dirty look and tells you she could have the skirt halfway finished by now.

Stitch your five layer cake pieces together forming a tube. This is the top tier of your skirt.

Unroll your jelly roll strips and gaze at them a bit. Doesn’t Moda do a nice job with these fabrics?

At this point you should try it on and make sure it’s not too big or too small. Add on a square to make it a plus sized skirt. Subtract a square or a portion of a square to make it smaller.

Ruthlessly cut them in half at the fold.

Pam: Randomly pull strips from the pile and stitch them together.

Elizabeth: OK, this time you try to be totally random…so you get into the spirit of just grabbing prints, until Pam tells you that you’re about to have a big blob of green in the middle of your skirt. So I guess you sort of randomly pull strips. They all go together quite well, and it’s fun to see combinations of prints you might not have thought of trying, but avoid blobs of one color. At all costs.

You will need 50 strips for this tier. For every 1 inch you added to the top tier, add 1 strip. (one layer cake square equals 10 strips) For every inch you removed, remove 1 strip.

Press seams in one direction.

Once your strips are all stitched together, stitch into a tube.

Trim to length. For our ‘maxi’ skirt we trimmed to 19 inches. Total length of the skirt is 38 inches. This is the perfect time to measure a skirt you love pick your own perfect length. Most purchased tiered skirts are between 34 and 36 inches long, as a guideline. For an average length skirt cut at 18 inches.

Gather your tier using your ruffler attachment, or your favorite method of gathering.

Ours was gathered using the ruffler foot set at 6 and stitch length set at 4.3. Yours may vary.

Pin your ruffled strip to your top tier. Stitch together.

Woo hoo , it looks like a skirt now doesn’t it!
Randomly select 20 layer cake pieces from your remaining pile for your last tier. For every 5 strips you added to your second tier, add 2 layer cakes pieces. For every 5 strips you removed subtract 2 layer cake pieces. Its not critical that you add or remove at this point. Its going to be ruffly regardless.

Gather at the same settings used before. Attach gathered layer cake tier to strip tier.

How cute is this?

Hem your skirt by turning up bottom tier 1/4 inch, then again 1/4 inch, for a nice small hem. For a more casual look, stitch 1/4 inch from the pinked edge and let it get that frayed look. Its summer fun, go for it!

From your 1/2 yard of waistband fabric cut (2) 2 3/4 inch strips. Stitch short ends together for one long strip and trim to 48 inches OR the measurement of the top of your skirt, if you made any alterations.

Elizabeth: Pam’s measurements and instructions are exactly right–but be sure to use a very accurate seam allowance when you stitch the waistband to the skirt and when you top stitch the top of the waistband make sure you stitch very close to the edge…because it might be a tiny bit difficult to thread the elastic through the casing. And if you tell Pam that the waistband should be cut maybe a little wider she’ll tell you “no”. If you don’t think you want to be that precise, you could cut your waistband pieces maybe 1/8″ wider, and Pam probably won’t find out.

Stitch into a tube leaving a 1 inch opening in the seam as shown. This will be the opening to insert your elastic. Fold right sides together and press.

Pin your waistband to the right side of your skirt with the opening facing away from the skirt.

Top stitch at the fold very close to the edge. This gives a nice professional look to your garment.

Insert elastic into your waistband and adjust to fit comfortably.

Stitch elastic ends securly everlapping for a flat finish.

Whip stitch the casing closed.

Pam: I used contrasting thread so you could see the stitching!

Elizabeth: Psst! Just between you and me? She used green thread because that’s what was already in the needle.

Your swing skirt is done! Go on, celebrate!

One very swingy summer skirt!

Summer fun brought to you by Elizabeth and Pam!

Patriotic Star Pillow

4th of July is Coming Soon. . .
Celebrate by Making this Fun Independence Day Project!

Along with this project I’m introducing a new product called Texture Magic by Superior Threads. It’s an amazing product and it’ll add a new dimension to any of your other projects. It was introduced at the 2009 Spring Market and is starting to show up in local quilt shops.

This is the fabric I used in the New Patriotic Star Pillow
(except for the red zig zag stars which I was going to use for the binding).

The Master List of Ingredients

  • 1/4 yard cuts of Four different fabrics from the Zippity Doo Da Collection (refer to fabric picture above: you will use the blue polka dot, red polka dot, cream plaid, and cream with blue squares & red dots)
  • 1/2 yard cut of the Red Floral Print (for corner squares and pillow back flaps)
  • One Moda Zippity Doo Da Charm Pack (for star block)
  • 1 Package Texture Magic by Superior Threads (optional)
  • Matching or Contrasting Thread
  • One 14″ x 14″ pillow insert
  • 16″ x 16″ piece of batting
  • 16″ x 16″ piece of muslin or other scrap for back of pillow top
  • Star Block pattern (click here to download the PDF file for Patriotic Star Block Pattern)

Note: I’ve broken the above ingredients down into parts for each of the four steps listed below.

Step One: Making the Texture Magic Border Pieces.

What you will need:

  • Cut two pieces of Texture Magic that measures 9″ x 18″
  • Cut the two 1/4 yard cream colored fabrics in half along the fold (it will measure 9″ x 18″) and set aside the other two pieces for the star backgrounds. You will use one of each of the cream fabrics you cut.

Take the two pieces of Texture Magic and use a fine line permanent pen to draw a 1″ grid going back and forth at a 45 degree angle.

Pin one piece of the Texture Magic to the wrong side of each piece of fabric and sew along the drawn lines as seen in the picture below.

Here’s a picture of what the grid will look like when you are done sewing.

Here’s a view of the front and back of the sewn grid.

This is Important: DO NOT PUT YOUR IRON on the Texture Magic. Also make sure to read through and follow the instructions on the package of Texture Magic before you begin.

Now you’re ready to apply some steam.

You will notice in about 10-20 seconds that the texture magic will begin to shrink. You will know it’s done shrinking when it lays pretty flat. I found it kinda works on the same principle as making Shrinky Dinks, it curls up and then flattens when it’s done.

Your sewn 9″ x 18″ fabric pieces will shrink down to approximately 6″ x 14″ which will be enough to cut the strips you’ll need for the four outer border pieces. Set them aside to trim later. The four border pieces should measure 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ after being cut.

Step Two: Making the Center Star Block.

Here is the link to print the 8″ x 8″ Patriotic Star Pattern.
Patriotic Star Pattern

What you will need:

  • Cut one piece of Freezer Paper @ 8 1/2″ x 11″ and a smaller piece of paper cut @ 8 1/2″ x 2″
  • Iron the 8 1/2″ x 2″ piece of freezer paper shiny side to shiny side. This will be the edge you feed through your printer or copy machine.
  • Print the star pattern onto the paper side of the freezer paper. This is the FINISHED size of the star and should measure 8″ x 8″.

Trim the excess paper around the 8″ x 8″ square.

Cut through the 2 (nearly) horizontal lines as seen in the picture below.

Cut through the lines in sections A, B, & C separating the pieces of the star as seen in the picture below.

Now you will be ironing the freezer paper star pieces to the different fabrics as listed below.

Make sure to allow for a 1/4″ of fabric around all sides of each freezer paper star piece.

  • You can use any cream/light background charm square for sections A1, A3, B1
  • You need to use the two leftover cream fabric for sections C1, and C3 because they are bigger than the charm squares.
  • You can use any blue charm squares for sections A2, B2, and C2
  • You will need to use a part of the blue polka dot fabric for the binding for section B3

The picture below is how the pieces should look before you cut them out.

Important Note: Lay your ruler a 1/4″ beyond each side of each piece and then trim the excess fabric.

This is what your star pieces will look like after you trim off the the excess fabric.

Now we are going to sew the pieces together to make the star center.

Take pieces A1 and A2 with wrong sides facing each other and using a straight pin you will push the point of the pin through at the tip or point of A1 through to the tip or point of A2. Then keeping the pin vertical push the two fabrics together. You will now sew along the paper line which is a 1/4″ seam. Press toward the lighter fabric.

Please refer to the picture below for a visual of the pin placement.

Pin and align A2 and A3. Sew the seam along the paper edge. Press seam toward the lighter fabric.

Repeat the process for Sections B and C.

Sew each section together in order from 1 to 3 for all 3 rows.
Example: Sew Section A1 to A2 and then sew on A3 to the right side of A2.

Here I am pinning the C1/C2 pieces to C3.

Here I am sewing the C3 piece to the C1/C2 pieces.

Once you’re done sewing the pieces in sections A, B, and C then you are ready to sew the rows together.

Match the paper points and corners with a pin and sew the completed Row A to Row B and then add Row C.

Step Three: Putting the Pillow Top Together.

What you will need:

  • Cut two strips measuring 1 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ from the red polka dot fabric (stop border).
  • Cut two strips measuring 1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ from the red polka dot fabric (stop border).
  • Cut four 2 1/2 x 2 1/2″ squares of red floral fabric (corner posts).
  • Cut four 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ from the two textured fabric pieces that you’ve made previously (outer borders).

Using a 1/4″ seam sew two strips measuring 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ to the two sides of the star center and then sew two strips that measure 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ to the top and bottom of the star center. Press seams away from center. See picture below.

Square up the pillow center to 10 1/2″ x 10 1/2″.

Using a 1/4″ seam sew on two of the 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ textured pieces to the sides of pillow. Press seams toward the center.

Align your ruler and trim off any excess.

Take the red floral 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares and sew one square on each side of the two remaining 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ textured border pieces. Press seams toward the red squares. Then sew each of the rows to the top and bottom of the pillow as seen in the picture below. Press seams outward.

Square up your pillow quilt top to 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″

Step Four: Finishing it up!

What you will need:

  • Completed Star Pillow Top
  • 16″ x 16″ piece of batting
  • 16″ x 16″ piece of muslin
  • Two pieces of Red Floral fabric cut @ 14 1/2″ x 16 1/2″ for pillow flaps
  • Two strips of Blue Polka dot fabric cut @ 2 1/2″ x 42″ for pillow binding.

Make a quilt sandwich with the top, batting, and muslin then pin and quilt as desired. Square up your pillow to 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″.

Now take the two Red floral fabric pieces and fold in half, press. Now take the two pressed flaps with the folded edges facing toward the center of the pillow and the raw edges lined up with the edges of the quilted pillow top. Sew a narrow seam all around the pillow making sure to reinforce the centers where the fabric flaps overlap. This is the opening where you will insert the pillow and you can also take out the pillow anytime to use as a small table quilt or wall hanging.

This picture shows the back opening of the original pillow (as seen below).

Sew the two binding strips together and then sew on the binding using a 3/8″ seam. Turn the binding to the back and hand sew the binding to finish it off. You may add buttons to embellish your pillow. Add the pillow insert and you’re done. I hope you enjoyed this project.

1 Pillow and enough leftovers to make another project.

This is an earlier version of my Patriotic Star Pillow.

I hope all of you have a wonderful Independence Day with your friends and family!

Kim Walus

Figgy Four Patch Quilt

 Finished size approximately 66 X 88
Created by Vickie E

• Figgy Pudding Layer cake ™
• Figgy Pudding Charm pack ™
• 3 yards Figgy Pudding sku# 3015054 Grunge Brown
• Batting 75X 96
• 6 yards Backing & binding

Choose 40 prints from your layer cake and square to 9.5 inches. Set aside. Then choose 32 prints from the charm pack. There will be a few extra charms which I set aside for a coordinating pillow.

Sew 4 charms into a row.

Continue until there are 4 rows of 4 charms and then join the rows.

Repeat that process with 16 more charm squares. They should measure 18.5 inches square.

I used my design wall for placement of all my Layer cake squares. Once I decided on the arrangement I began to sew them into 4-patches.

You will need 10 4-patches measuring 18.5 inches square.

Here they are on my design wall.

The next step is to cut the sashing and border strips.

I do not care to piece my borders. I cut the selvage off the entire 3 yards. I save it for selvage quilts! Once the selvage edge is cut that becomes my straight edge for cutting. You need 10 strips cut at 3.5 inches X WOF (which is about 108 inches). If you notice, I left the fabric folded as it came off the bolt. Therefore when I make my cut…I am actually making 2 strips per cut. 5 cuts will yield 10 strips. There will be some leftover fabric which I am using to make a coordinating pillow (tutorial soon??).

Take a strip and cross cut them 18.5 inches, do this for a total of 8 strips.

Sew the 18.5 inch sashings to the blocks.

Then add the horizontal sashings which can be cross cut to approximately 66 inches. You will need 5 horizontal strips. I would measure your quilt before cutting as there is always variations in stitch width that could affect the overall size of the quilt.

Finally add the 2 outer border strips. They will be cut to the size of your quilt about 88 inches. Quilt as desired and bind. I hope you enjoy this tutorial. It is really a quick quilt to piece since the blocks are 18 inches finished. I think this would be a great guy quilt with the dark brown tones!
Large throw quilt 67 X 88 inches

Grocery Bag Dispenser

1 sweet charm pack
two 19″ x 3 1/2″ strips white bella solids
20″ x 20″ piece white bella solids
20″ x 20″ piece warm & natural batting
30″ of 1/2″ wide elastic

ribbon &/or rick rack

lay out 16 of your fav charms from your charm pack in a 4×4 layout.

sew the 1st row. pressing seam to the right.
sew the 2nd row. pressing seam to the left.
sew the 3rd row. pressing seam to the right again.
and then sew the 4th row. pressing seam to the left again.
{this will ensure perfect seams.}

join row 1 & row 2. press.
add row 3. press.
add row 4. press.

layer with the 20″ x 20″ piece of bella solids & 20″ x 20″ batting.
and quilt as desired. {i went with good ol’ stipple quilting.}
then trim off your edges just like you would if you were about to complete a quilt.

take your two 19″ x 3 1/2″ strips of white bella solids and fold them in half like you would binding. press.

with the opening facing outwards on, just like binding, sew your strip on.

you’ll want to do this to the top and the bottom of your little quilt.
yours should look just like mine.

cut 12″ from your elastic and place a safety pin at one end, like so.

feed the safety pin end of your elastic through the strip on the TOP of your quilt.

once you pull the pin through to the other side, you’ll need to remove the pin and secure the loose end of your elastic by sewing over it.

trim it nice & neat once it’s secure.

here’s what your top will look like once it’s done.
now cut 10″ from your elastic and do this process again for the bottom.

after you’ve sewn your elastic into place, you’re gonna have a funky looking quilt like this.

take the remaining 8″ of elastic and fold it in half.
this will be for you to hang your dispenser by.

{you can use ribbon, rick rack or even fabric here instead of elastic.}

take your little quilt, right sides together and start to sew down the long, open side.
the ends of your elastic are gonna be a little finicky, but you can do it!!!

before you go too far, take that folded elastic from the previous step and slide it in place with the opening facing outwards near the top of your quilt.
{i placed mine about 1/2″ from the bottom of the white fabric.}

after you have sewn down the side, this is what your little quilt will look like now.

now flip that bad boy right side out …

and you are done.
{unless you want to wash it & dry it for that straight from the dryer crinkly goodness like i did.}

now all you have to do is add your grocery bags and enjoy!!!

did i mention it takes less than an hour to whip up one of these???
so go whip up a few for you, your mom, your sister & your neighbor…they’re all gonna want one once they see yours!!!

rachel of p.s. i quilt

Sweet n Shabby Woven Pillow Cover

One Honey Bun – featured Hello Betty by Chloe’s Closet
One fat quarter (for backing)
16 inch pillow form
17 inch square of muslin or other fabric
Heat n’ Bond sewable (light) iron on adhesive

buttons, pompoms, chenille, ribbon

Since the pillow we are making is 16 inches, we will cut the backing fabric 17 inches square. I just used whatever white fabric I had available, as it will not show. Use a clear acrylic quilters rule to mark pencil lines 1 to 2″ apart. Both vertically and horizontally. This will be somewhat of a guide to keep you straight and on track as you lay the fabric strips down.

Cut several 1/2″ strips of Heat n’ Bond.

Apply them to the backing fabric with a hot iron, about an inch apart

Pull all the paper strips off, exposing the adhesive (the lower five shiny rows you see above).

Determine how many strips from the honey bun you need for your square. For this size I needed 22 1.5″ wide strips (11 horizontally & 11 vertically). Pick the fabrics you will be using

and cut them into 17 inch lengths. (nip off those white selvage edges first.)

This next picture shows how I start a strip in the middle, one for each direction. For an accurate measure, I just butt strips side by side starting at the edge and leave the one in the middle.

Now you just start weaving strips in one at a time. Pretty much like we did in grade school, but in this case it is easiest if you start in the middle and work your way out. Alternating one horizontal and then one diagonal.
See how I just flop every other strip back to weave in a new strip? Then lay them back down and go do the same thing on the other side. When you complete the first corner, you might want to carefully slide it onto the ironing board for a quick press of the finished area (I used a large cutting mat to transport it) and then put it back on the worktable to complete the weaving.

When you get to an end piece it’s helpful to pin back the strips that you are weaving under.

When the entire square is satisfactorily woven, go to the ironing board and press the piece well. Except for every other little end piece flapping loosely, it’s relatively secure at this point, but I would suggest you sew up and down each edge for added security (You will see I did that in the next photo). If you are adding a fabric silhouette piece, do so now. It’s easiest if you back a contrasting fabric with the iron on adhesive, cut out your shape, iron it down, then stitch around it.
If you are adding pompom trim to the edge, do so now. For beginning sewers who haven’t yet added trim like this, I’ll give a quickie lesson. Lay the pompom trim down with the poms facing inward as shown, butting the edge of the trim to the raw edge of the right side of your woven pillow top. Then sew a half inch seam all around. I like to sew in a little curve around each corner, rather than turning a sharp 90degree angle at each corner.

(Remember to note in the above photo how I sewed up and down each raw edged strip).

Now take your 18×22 fat quarter, trim it to 17×22, and cut in half so that you have two pieces that each measure 17×11. On one long side of each of those do a scant hem running the 17″ direction. (I fold over once, press, then zigzag stitch). Pin each of these two rectangles to your pillow front, right sides together, hemmed edges toward the center, and corners matching (I flapped up one end to illustrate the overlap you will have)
Now sew around all four sides, and turn your pillow cover right sides out. A lot of people might choose to just stitch a 17×17 backing square most of the way around, leave a little opening, turn right sides out, fill with stuffing and whip stitch the opening closed, but this way you can easily remove the pillow insert and wash the cover as needed.

Make small marks on both sides of the pillow back, for two ribbon closures as shown.
I cut four equal lengths of ribbon, six or seven inches long. With each of the four pieces, place an end on the marked spot with the right side of the ribbon down as shown, stitch back and forth 2 or 3 times,
Then, without taking the piece from the machine, leave the needle in the down position in the fabric, raise the machine foot, flip the ribbon over right side up, and stitch back and forth over the ribbon 2 or 3 times again.

Don’t you agree this is a nicer way to finish a pillow? I thought you would!

The sweet shabbiness happens after you wash it a time or two.

When I pulled this out of the dryer I had to cut off a lot of threads that had unraveled from the raw edges, but because Moda uses a mini zigzag cut on the edges(they think of everything!) it is really quite minimal. Just the right amount of ‘fuzziness’, in my opinion.

I really had such fun making this and kept having ideas for other ways to decorate it so I had to immediately make a second one. I remembered I had some of this instant *chenille* that I’d bought several years ago.

(You can find it here and there online if you google “Chenille-It”)

I did not stitch down each side of each strip as I did above, I just laid two strip of the chenille tape (double layer for extra fluffiness) down over each strip edge and sewed down the center as shown in this next picture

Then, as you can see, I thought about putting pom poms at each or every other intersection, but ultimately I decided to add buttons.

I think for this option to really work you want to have a wide variety of buttons. A real “Grandma’s stash” assortment. 🙂

The *magic* happens with this chenille after a machine wash and dry.

I can’t say it was “fun” sewing down 100 buttons through all the layers, but I am glad that I did it. 🙂

Well, now I have TWO very similar pillows, so I think I’ll give the bird and pompoms one away to someone. Come leave a comment on the pillow post at my blog and it might be to YOU! WINNER HAS BEEN DRAWN. THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO CAME AND COMMENTED!

Two pillows with a fair amount of leftover strips and pieces for another project on another day.

and the winner is….

Congratulations to….
Prairie Flower Quilt Co.

Prairie Flower Quilt Co. is June’s Moda Bake Shop featured shop.
Here is an excerpt from their entry.

“Hi! Attached are photos of our Moda Bake Shop at Prairie Flower Quilt Co. in Leoti, KS. We absolutely love everything about Moda: the fabric, designers, patterns, our rep Al Lamborn, the Moda Bake Shop website….. We could go on and on! Our Bake Shop features the new Christmas lines of Crazy Eights, Figgy Pudding & Frosted Memories. The bake shop theme and color scheme also allows us to use our collection of jadite green dishes
and kitchen wares.

We posted these pics on our blog at too!

We’re planning a Christmas in July event on July 17 & 18 so come and see our
bake shop in person.

Sharla, Belinda, Deb & Janet
Prairie Flower Quilt Co.
Leoti, KS 67861

If you would like to enter your shop please send pictures to Drawing on the 15th of each month.

Sweet Secret Stars

 Here’s my attempt at an artful shot of my Sweet Secret Stars quilt top. I’m no Camille, that’s for sure. I hope this doesn’t discourage you from trying this Sweet project!

For this project you’ll need a Sweet Honey Bun, Layer Cake, 3/8 yard of pink Bella solid, 3/8 yard green Bella solid and 1 yard of the Sweet border of your choice.

If you can bear it, unwrap your cute honey bun and cut the strips in half at the fold. Take as much time as you need, I can wait!
Select 4 of your favorite strips and stitch them together making a strip set. Press seams in one direction.
Make a minimum of 16 strip sets. Vary the placement of lights and darks as this will make your blocks more interesting.

Cut each strip set into 1 1/2 inch segments. You will need a total of 200 segments.

From your Sweet Layer Cake, cut (49) 4 1/2 inch squares. (I cut 2 from each of the 40 layer cake pieces so that I would have plenty of choices when I laid out my blocks.)

Cut 160 pink 1 1/2 inch squares for your snowball blocks and your half snowball blocks. Draw a pencil line diagonally across each pink square, place on larger square and stitch on the line. OR stitch across using your favorite method. For your snowball blocks stitch a pink square on each corner, for your half snowball blocks stitch a pink square to two adjacent corners. Press away from square to create a corner triangle, trim excess from back of block.

This is where I suggest the line method, so you will have nice points that match up with your patchwork blocks. Unlike mine, which match up, some of the time.

For this quilt you will need 31 snowball blocks, 50 patched blocks and 18 half snowball blocks.

Layout your blocks as shown in the photo of the quilt below. The half snowballs blocks have their pink points facing inward. Begin and end row 1 and all odd rows with a patchwork block, alternating blocks. Row 1 and 11 will have only half snowball blocks, row one facing down, row 11 facing up. Even rows will begin with a half snowball facing to the right and end with a half snowball facing left.
From Bella Solid green cut (5) 1 1/2 strips. Measure length of quilt, stitch 3 strips together and cut two strips for side borders. Stitch to sides of quilt. Measure width of quilt, using remaining strips cut top and bottom inner border. Stitch borders to top and bottom of quilt.
From Sweet Border print cut (6) 5 inch strips. Stitch 3 strips together for one long strip. Measure length of quilt. Cut two strips for side borders. Stitch to sides of quilt. Stitch remaining 3 strips together, measure width of quilt, cut two strips for top and bottom borders. Stitch to quilt.

This quilt would be called Sweet Not So Secret Stars had I reversed the green and pink, the green is a higher contrast and would show off more. But I like the subtle nature of the pink.. so there you go. You can decide for yourself which you like best. You could use your squares plain and it would be just as Sweet!

Fresh from the garden

One 56 x 48 inch Sweet Quilt top!

Stitch your segments into units of 4. This is where you’ll thank me for suggesting you press those strips in one direction. You will need 50 blocks.