Twists and Turns


Hello fellow bakers 🙂  I’m Melissa Corry from Happy Quilting and I am super excited to share a new quilt with you today.  Twists and Turns is a super easy quilt that is made from one block but has endless layout possibilities.  So whether you are into a modern square, an improv maze, or a traditional braid, you are sure to find the quilt design that fits you 😉  So, let’s get right to it 🙂

To make a Twists and Turns 84″x 84″ picnic size quilt you will need:

2 Bluebird Park Jelly Rolls by Kate and Birdie
2 1/6 Yards of the Grey Flower print  (13106 18)
1 1/6 Yards of the Yellow print  (13108 19)
5 Yards of any print for Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING

We will start with the Yardage.  From the Grey print yardage, cut (30) 2 1/2″ x WOF strips.  From those strips sub-cut (36) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares, (36) 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strips, and (36) 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strips.  Set aside.  From the Yellow print yardage, cut (15) 2 1/2″  x WOF strips.  From those strips sub-cut *36) 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ strips and (36) 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strips.  Set Aside.

Now it’s time to move onto the jelly rolls.  From the 2 Jelly Rolls select 54 strips.  I used the light grey, green, blue, and coral strips setting aside the yellow and dark grey strips for binding.

Divide the 54 strips into 2 piles, one pile of 18 strips and one pile of 36 strips.  Evenly distribute the colors in each pile.

From the pile of 18 strips, cut each strip while folded into a 10 1/2″ and (2) 4 1/2″ increments.  This will create (4) 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles and (2) 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strips from each strip.  Cut all 18 strips this way and group the pieces into piles of similar size.

From the pile of 36 strips, open the strip and cut one of each of the following pieces from the strip.  A 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x  8 1/2″ piece, a 2 1/2″ x  6 1/2″ piece, and a 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ square.  Cut each of these pieces from all 36 strips.  Group these with the other prints into piles of similar size.

From your Jelly Rolls you should now have the following pieces

STEP 2 – BUILDING BLOCK

To start the block, gather a grey yardage 2 1/2″ square and a colored print 2 1/2″ square.  Place with right sides together and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge, aligning as you sew.

Chain stitch 36 similar sets.  Chain stitching is just sewing one set after another without clipping threads in between.  Once you are through sewing all 36 sets, clip the threads and press toward the colored print.

Now, layout your pieced set and a colored print 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle as shown.  Place the rectangle onto the pieced set with right sides together and aligning the raw edge.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.

Repeat for all 36 pieced sets chain stitching as you go.  Once you have chain stitched all 36 sets, clip the threads and press towards the 4 1/2″ print piece.

And now the process will repeat again and again 🙂

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a yellow yardage 2 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a yellow yardage 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 10 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a colored print 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

Almost done!!!

Grab a grey yardage 2 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ strip and place it onto the side of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.  

 Now, grab a grey yardage 2 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ strip and place it onto the top of the pieced unit with right sides together and aligning raw edges as shown.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets chain stitching as you go.  Clip the threads and press towards the newly added piece.

You should now have (36) 14 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ blocks that look something like this 🙂

STEP 3 – ASSEMBLING QUILT TOP


And now is the really fun part.  This is where you get to decide what kind of a quilt layout you want.  There are so many possibilities.  These are a few of my favorite 🙂    Play with the blocks until you have the layout you love, and there are lots more options than shown 😉  Once you have a layout you like, sew the blocks into rows and the rows into the quilt top 🙂

 

If you decide to do the staircase layout, the same as I did, it is easiest to first sew the blocks into the two  sets of two shown below, making 9 of each set.

And then sew the sets into two sets of row, making 3 of each row as shown.

And lastly, sewing the rows into the quilt top.

STEP 4 – FINISHING

Now just Baste it, Quilt it, and Bind It.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  If you are new to finishing your quilt, I have created a video tutorial series that goes over the basics of each of these three steps.  You can find it at my blog 🙂   You will use 8 strips you set aside at the beginning to do the binding.

One adorable 84″ x 84″ Twists and Turns Quilt that is just the design for you 🙂  Thank you so much for joining me and I hope you enjoyed the tutorial.  If you make your own Twists and Turns Quilt I would love to see it.  You can add it to my Inspired by Happy Quilting Flickr group here 🙂

Have a Happy Quilting Day!!!

Melissa Corry
{www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Q&A with Oda May: Basting

 {fabric in background is from Scrumptious by Bonnie and Camille}

Love to piece and quilt but hate to baste? You’re not alone. Join Oda May today as she answers a reader question about basting in small spaces.

Dear Oda May,

Greetings from Spain! I started quilting about four years ago and am still a bit green. Is there an easy way to put together all three layers – and get them all wrinkle free – before I start my hand quilting? I don’t have much space and usually put the layers together on the floor on my living room, which is a real pain in more ways than one.

Crawling on Pins and Needles,
Consuelo 
 
Dear Consuelo!

I feel your pain (literally). Basting is my least favorite part of the process so I have some tips for you to make it less painful.

Clamps. Instead of suffering on your hands and knees on the floor, why not baste your quilt in small sections on a table top or counter? You can use strong clamps (found in any hardware store) to hold the three layers nice and tight. Use basting pins or a needle and thread with this method.

Fusible Batting. This may not be an option for hand-quilted projects but fusible batting also allows you to baste in small sections. All you need is space to iron.

Long-arm Basting. Most long-arm quilters offer basting services for both hand quilters and those who like to do their own quilting at home. Check with some long-arm quilters in your area for pricing and availability.

Baste in Peace,

Family Tree Quilted Pillow


Greetings, Moda Bake Shop readers.  My name is Karen Miller, and I’m a new Chef here at the Bake Shop!  I live in the beautiful Finger Lakes Region of Upstate New York, USA, and I blog about all things Quilty at Karen’s Quilts, Crows and Cardinals.  Stop by and check out my projects, tutorials, and other happenings.

Today I’m excited to share a Quilted Envelope Pillow recipe using Deb Strain’s “Family Tree” fabric.

With its beautiful colorways, “Family Tree” is perfect for fall – AND – spring projects!  As you can see from my Blog, I’m addicted to birds – so the Family Tree birds and paisley along with some awesome dimensional cuts have me sold on this line…  I’m sure you will LOVE IT too!

Several techniques were used to complete the quilted pillow including machine piecing, applique, fussy cutting, and free motion quilting.  Both cotton and wool fabric were used in this sample — I hope you enjoy the variety.

The finished pillow fits a 20″ x 20″ pillow insert and has a cute little 2″ flange around the outside!

Pillow Top, Envelope Back and Misc Applique Pieces:

    • 1 Jelly Roll Family Tree #19640JR

Applique Background:

    • 1 Fat Quarter Family Tree Cream #19649 11

Applique Tree:

    • 1 7″ x 10″ piece Moda Marble Chocolate #6851

Other:

    • 28″ square inexpensive cotton fabric for quilted pillow backing
    • 28″ square piece of batting (I used Hobbs Poly)
    • 20″ square Pillow Form

Optional choices:

  • For Applique Tree:  7″ x 10″ piece Moda Wool Dark Brown #810-58
  • For Applique Birds:  5″ x 5″ scrap of Moda Wool Red #1700-72
  • Quilter’s Freezer Paper
  • DMC #8 Pearl Cotton Thread in Red & Brown for wool applique
  • Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2000 1GN for quilting
  • Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2845 1GN & #2600 ICN for top stitching

 

Please review all instructions before getting started. 

Unless otherwise indicated, all piecing was completed using a scant 1/4 inch seam allowance.

 

Pillow Top Piecing:

Applique Background: Cut one 13″ x 13″ square using Family Tree Cream or any other neutral Moda fabric.

Pieced Pillow Top : From your Jelly Roll choose 5 to 10 different strips for the pillow top – The sample was completed using 7 different fabric strips and alternating lighter/darker fabrics in the block.


Cutting and Piecing Pillow Top:  Using the “Piecing and Cutting” diagram below, cut strip sizes and sew to the cream applique background.  Note:  The diagram indicates the order in which you piece AND the size of the cut piece.

Example:   #1 – 13″ represents the first piece you sew to the background and it is cut 13 inches long.

Piecing and Cutting Diagram – # indicates the order and ” indicate size to cut

Note:  Above pieces #9, #10, #11 and #12 were sewn to the pillow top after I completed the applique.  You can sew them on at any time.

Cutting Tip:   When you’re cutting pieces that are longer than 10 or 12 inches consider this approach:

Take 1/2 of the desired size as your target, fold your fabric to the target size plus a bit of overlap. Find the target size mark on your ruler and place it on the fabric fold. Trim the opposite end.

This method allows you to remove the selvage while cutting the desired strip size and helps avoid LONG strip and ruler alignment.

Now, back to the pillow top — be sure to press your seams toward the outside of the pillow after each strip is sewn.  I was taught to first press the seam flat before pressing it in the desired direction.  The seams come out beautifully using this method.

Now that you’ve completed most or all of the piecing on the pillow top it’s time to applique!

 

Pillow Top Applique: 

The applique portion of the pillow allows for great flexibility!


In the completed sample I used Moda Wool for the tree and birds and attached them to the background with a whipstitch (sometimes referred to as an overhand stitch).  The birds were stuffed to give them dimension.   Needle turn applique method was used for the tree leaves.  In all cases, basting was done with applique pins.

If you would rather not use the sample methods, there are many applique options available including raw or turned edge applique, fused or glued, with hand or machine stitching.  If you have any questions on any particular method, leave a comment here or on my blog, and I would be happy to give you feedback.  Also, check out the great Moda Bake Shop Basics tutorials on Machine Applique and Turned Edge Machine Applique.

Tree above in Moda Marble — Yummy !

Tree & Birds:

If you are using wool and not fusing it down, then you’ll want to have Quilter’s Freezer Paper on hand.  If you don’t have Quilters Freezer paper sheets, you can use rolled freezer paper from your kitchen drawer 😉

Using the tree template below, trace the tree design to the dull or paper side of the freezer paper.

Tree Template

With a dry iron set on **medium heat, press your freezer paper to the right side of the wool.
**Use care not to burn and/or discolor your wool.

Cut along the drawn line.  Remove the freezer paper.

Use applique pins to secure the tree to the background fabric, then use Pearl Cotton thread to stitch using a Whipstitch.


Finished Tree:

Once your tree is stitched down, use the same techniques to cut and stitch your birds.

Bird layout:

Before stitching the birds to the background you can (optionally) add some dimension by stuffing them with batting.

 

Once the birds are stitched to the background, give them each a wing.  I fussy cut paisley wings using clear template plastic to help find the perfect fussy cut.  You’ll notice that I auditioned several different fabrics for wings — there are many great choices.  Choose what looks good to your eye and attach using your favorite applique method.

After stitching the tree, birds, and bird wings to the background, choose several strips from the jelly roll and fussy cut leaves to complete the tree.  The sample leaves were completed using needle turn applique, but use your favorite applique method.  For a fast and easy solution consider raw edge applique using fusible web to secure and machine top stitch for added interest.

Once the applique is completed, add the 4 outside border pieces (pieces #9 through #12 from the Piecing and Cutting Diagram above).

Your unquilted pillow top should measure appx 24 3/4 inches square.

 

Prepare for Pillow Top Quilting:

In the sample, only the pillow top was quilted. 

Prepare the quilt sandwich on a table top — the pillow size is perfect because nothing drapes over the edges of the table!

First, lay out your backing fabric — remember this fabric will not show once your envelope pillow is completed, so use a less expensive muslin or a light colored cotton fabric.

Now secure the backing fabric to the table with tape, pulling it taut, but using care not to stretch your fibers – you don’t want it to spring back when the tape is removed.

Next, position and smooth batting over the backing, secure it with tape, remembering not to pull too tight.

 

Lastly, position and smooth the pillow top right side up on the batting, always smoothing from the center out and securing as you smooth.

Pin basting is complete.

I use quilting safety pins to baste my quilt tops, but there are other methods including spray basting and basting with straight pins and soft tips.

 

Quilt the Pillow Top:

Using matching thread and a walking foot, stitch in the ditches along the strip pieces to stabilize the pillow top before Free Motion Quilting the applique area.

Start at the edge of the applique background and work your way outward – stitching in the ditch.

Also, baste stitch around the outside perimeter of the pillow top.

Free Motion Quilt the applique area:

Free motion quilting is fun and it allows you to enjoy your piece without the wait of someone else doing your quilting for you.   This pillow top is a perfect place to practice free motion quilting..  Here are some basics:

Use a top and bobbin thread that match the applique background, put your darning foot on, and drop the feed dogs on your machine.  For ease of movement, use a Supreme Slider on your machine bed.  Check out my blog in the next few weeks for more “Free Motion Quilting Basics”.

Start by echo stitching around each applique piece.   I used Aurifil Mako 50/2 in Color #2000 thread to quilt the applique area – the color matched perfectly!


After you’ve echo stitched the applique, quilt any design you like to fill in the background.  The more densely you quilt, the more your applique pieces will POP!

The sample was quilted using a combination of “McTavishing”, circles, and swirls, which all added movement to the piece. 

Quilt the Pillow Top Strips:

Once you have finished quilting the applique area, quilt the pieced strips with a top stitch.  I used a 2.70 stitch length on my machine.  Use a thread color that complements the fabric.

Square Up the Pillow Top:

Depending on the density of your quilting you may have to make some fine adjustments to square up the pillow top.   On the sample piece the right side was simple and squared up nicely.

However, because of the dense quilting in the lower left corner of the sample, some “fine adjustments” aka “fudging it” were made on the left and bottom edges.  You can see from the diagram below that the “fine adjustment” included trimming outside of the top fabric, resulting in only the batting and backing being square.

“Squaring up” which does not cut into the top fabric is not a problem; however, it may require you to increase the seam allowance when the pillow layers are stitched together.   This was the case with the sample pillow.

The sample piece pillow top squared up at 24.25″.

Important:  The above measurement is necessary to trim the envelope pieces.  The width of the envelope pieces will need to match the width of the pillow top (trimmed and squared).

For now, set your pillow top aside and prepare to piece the envelope back.

 

Pieced Envelope Back:

The envelope back requires two pieces:

  • One 19″ by 25″ envelope top (horizontal strips)
  • One 17″ by 25″ envelope bottom (vertical strips)

The sample was pieced using 13 of the remaining jelly roll strips.

To piece the scrappy back choose 13 WOF strips from the jelly roll.

Envelope fabric strips

Arrange the strips in a layout that is pleasing to your eye.

Sew the long sides of the 13 strips together.

When complete you should have a 42″ by 26.5″ rectangle.

From the rectangle, cut one 26″ by 26″ square, rotate it and trim it to 19″ by 24.25″ (same as the width of pillow top once squared up) with the strips running horizontally.  This is the envelope top.

Use the remaining 17″ by 26″ piece for the bottom of the envelope.  Trim to 17″ by 24.25″ (same as the width of pillow top once squared up).  These strips run vertically.

Fold and topstitch one wide edge of the envelope top and one wide edge of the envelope bottom.


Now you’re ready to layer, pin and sew your pillow layers together!

Complete the Pillow:

Be sure all three pieces (Pillow Top, Envelope Top and Envelope Bottom) are the same width.  The sample measured 24.25″ wide.

Begin by positioning the pillow top, right side up on a table.

Add the envelope top, right side down on the pillow top.  Align the raw edges at the top, left, and right. Pin.  The envelope top will not cover the entire pillow – align it at the top edge.

Lastly, add the envelope bottom, right side down over the bottom portion of the pillow top.  Align raw edges at the bottom, left, and right. Pin.  The envelope bottom will not cover the entire pillow top but it will overlap the envelope top by about 6″.

Using your walking foot sew around the entire outside of the pillow layers using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. The envelope opening will allow you to turn right side out.

Trim all 4 corners to reduce bulk.  Gently press the seams open.

Next, turn the pillow right side out through the envelope.  Once right side out, reach inside to push out the corners.  If necessary, from the right side, use a pin to pull the corner fabric out.

Almost done !

Press around the outside edges of the completed pillow.

Sew the Flange

The flange is made by stitching in the ditch, through all layers, as designated by “A” in the diagram below.  This makes the pillow the correct size to fit a 20″ x 20″ pillow form.

To give the pillow a more finished look, topstitch around the inner and outer edges of the outside strips as designated with “B” below.

Below is a close up of the top stitching around the flange:

Whew – that was fun!

Now you have a beautiful quilted pillow with flange that you can use for fall or spring decorating.

Are you ready to get started ?

Check out the awesome price on the Family Tree Jelly roll at Cindy’s Sew It Is!

Completed Front and Back:

One 22″ x 22″ Quilted Envelope Pillow with a 2″ Flange — and plenty of Jelly Roll strips leftover for an accent pillow!!

If you have questions, leave them in the comments below — I’ll be happy to answer them.

Also, I would love to have you jump on over to my blog and say hello.

There are some neat posts about Wool Applique here and here, and if you’re interested in learning more about Needle Turn Applique or Free Motion Quilting, stop by in November when I’ll post some basic tutorials on these topics. 

I look forward to seeing you there!

Karen Miller
{www.karensquiltscrowscardinals.blogspot.com}

BOO! Table Runner

Em here from Em’s Scrapbag cookin’ up a little Halloween treat with the Boo Crew. A quick and easy table runner sure to scare up a little fun in your lair.

 
1 Boo Crew layer cake
¾ yard backing
Fat quarter for binding

Choose 24 of your layer cake squares. Arrange in sets of two.  (4 set for the Bs and 8 sets for the Os)
Choose one other 10″ square for spiders in Bs. Make a template from lightweight cardboard of a 6¼” circle.

For each O
Choose one of your 10″ squares and place the cardboard template on top and cut a generous ½” seam allowance around it. From the other 10″ cut a 8½” square.

For each B
Choose one of your 10″ squares and cut:
2 – 3½” squares
1 – 1½” x 6½” rectangles
From the other 10″ square cut
6 – 1½” squares
4 – 1½” x 6½” rectangles

To make the Os run a gathering stitch ⅛” around the edge of each circle.
Next pull the gathering stitch until the circle begins to pop up.

Place the template inside the popped circle and pull the gathering stitches until it encases the template.

Using Best Press and/or steam press your circle to set edge around template.

Pop out your template and center on your 8½” square background.  Top stitch in place.

For your Bs
Using your 10″ spider square cut 8- 1½” circles.  A spool of thread works good for this.
With a needle and thread start on the wrong side of the fabric and begin a gather stitch.

Folding the fabric over as you go.
Pull tight to create your spider and tie off.  Repeat with remaining circles

Sew a 1½” x 6½” B rectangle to a 1½” x 6½” background rectangle.

Take the 3½” square and sew the 1½” squares on the diagonal on three of the corners. Trim seam allowance.

 Sew a yo yo spider in the center of this block.  Repeat with the other 3½” square, remaining 1½” squares and yo yo spider.

Sew these two blocks together.

Sew the two 1½” x 6½” rectangle unit to the side of this.

 Sew another 1½” x 6½” rectangle to the other side of your B.

Sew the remaining 1½” x 6½” rectangles to the top and bottom of your B.
Sew a B to two Os to create your Boo units.  Make 4.

From your scraps or remaining 10″ squares cut 4- 5″ x 6 1/2″ rectangles and 1- 4 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle. Sew these together with the smaller rectangle in the center. Sew this piece between two of the Boo units.

You can stop here to make a table mat or add the remaining Boo units on either end for a runner.

 Sandwich top with batting and backing and quilt as desired.  I quilted spiderwebs in mine.

22″ x 38″ runner

Emily Bailey
{www.emsscrapbag.blogspot.com}

Scrumptious Scrappy Chevron Picnic Quilt



Hi Everyone!  I’m Rhonda from Patchwork Sampler and I’m thrilled to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you.  This is an easy project that’s perfect for a baby quilt, throw or bed topper.  I used the beautiful “Scrumptious” line of fabric from Bonnie and Camille for this quilt and it turned out to be a wonderfully bright, happy project!

Fabric:
One layer cake-Scrumptious by Bonnie and Camille
1 yard of background-Bella Porcelain (9900-182), Scrumptious Cream Solid (55078-17) or similar fabric
2/3 yard binding-Scrumptious Diagonal Stripe Aqua (55071-12)
3½ yards backing-I used Scrumptious Aqua (55073-12)

Tools:
Pencil
Rotary cutter and ruler
Basic sewing supplies
Sewing machine


Use ¼” seams throughout this project unless otherwise noted.  Pressing directions are given when it makes a difference in piecing units or sewing blocks together. There are two squares of the cream solid in the Scrumptious layer cake.  I did not use those in my project because of the similarity to the background fabric.  Just set them aside and use them in another quilt!

This quilt is made from two easy blocks.  We’ll start by making Block A, the chevron block first.

Cut each of the remaining 40 squares in half so you have (2) 5″ x 10″ rectangles from each. Make two stacks of rectangles.  One set will be used in block A.  Set the other set aside to use for Block B.

Cut each of the rectangles from the Block A set in half, making two 5″ squares from each.

Select 42 of the 5″ squares to use for the half-square triangles (HST) in Block A.  Be sure to select squares that contrast with your background. Trim each of the selected squares to 4⅞” square.  Set the remaining 5″ squares aside to use in Block B.

From the background fabric cut (6) 4⅞” strips.  Sub-cut into (42) 4⅞” squares. Draw a diagonal line on the back of each background square.  Pair each of the background squares right sides together with a print square.

Sew a ¼” seam on both sides of the drawn line.  Then cut apart on the drawn line.

Press seams toward the print fabric and clip off the “dog ears.”  Your HST units should measure 4½” square.  Make 84 HST blocks.

Select four HST units for each block.  Try to choose four different colors and prints for each block.
Layout a set of four HST units as shown below.  Make sure the triangles are placed correctly to form the chevron.

Sew the units together into pairs.  To reduce bulk, press the seams open.

Sew the pairs together to make the block.  Again, press seams open.  Make 21 blocks.  Your blocks should measure 8½” square at this point.

Now gather up the 5″ x 10″ rectangles you set aside along with the remaining 5″ squares and get ready to do some more cutting to make the “B” Blocks.

Cut each of the 5″ x 10″ rectangles in half lengthwise to make two 2½” x 10″ rectangles.

Select 56 of these rectangles and sub-cut them to 2½” x 8½“.
From the remaining 2½” x 10″ rectangles and 5″ squares, cut (112) 2½” x 4½” rectangles.

Sew pairs of 2½” x 4½” rectangles together along the short side.  Press seams to one side.  Make 56 pairs.

For each B Block select two 2½” x 8½” rectangles and two units from the previous step.  Try to get an assortment of colors and prints for each block.

Sew the blocks together as shown.  Press all the seams up toward the 2½” x 8½” rectangle at the top. Make 28 blocks.  Blocks should measure 8½” square at this point.

Now you should have 21 “A” Blocks and 28 “B” Blocks and you’re ready to lay out the quilt.  It has seven rows of seven blocks each.  The odd numbered rows are “B” blocks and the even numbered rows are “A” blocks.

Every other block in Rows 1, 3, 5 and 7 are rotated 180 degrees (just turn them upside down!).
Lay out four rows that look like this and sew them together.

Now lay out three rows that look like this and sew them together.  All blocks go the same way on the even rows.

Sew your rows together to finish your quilt top.  Press the seams toward the odd rows.

Cut your backing into two 1¾ yard pieces.  Cut off the selvages and sew the pieces together for the backing.  Layer quilt top with batting and backing, then quilt as desired.  This is how I quilted mine.

In the odd rows I simply quilted continuous up-and-down lines.

In the even rows, I got a little fancier (but still very easy) and quilted little pebbles in the background.  The chevrons were quilted with three wavy lines. I quilted in the ditch to outline the chevrons and on the seams between rows.

Bind your quilt and enjoy!  If you need help binding, there is a MBS tutorial here.


One quilt, approximately 56″ square.
A limited number of Scrappy Chevron Picnic Quilt kits are available in my Etsy shop here. Sorry, kits are now sold out.

Rhonda Roberts
{www.patchworksampler.com}

Layer Player Quilt


Welcome to another great tutorial from Quilted Works! One of our fantastic quilt designers, Julie Macfarlane, designed this quick and easy Layer Cake Quilt. She used the new fabric line by American Jane called “Pot Luck.”

  • 1 Layer Cake
  • 1/2 yard fabric for binding
  • 53″ x 60″ piece of batting
  • 2 1/2 yards fabric for quilt back


Select a Layer Cake. Divide the Layer Cake into 21 pairs, making sure that the fabrics coordinate well and create a contrast with each other.

Place two contrasting layer cake pieces right sides together and stitch 1/4″ seam along the two parallel sides. Then, also stitch a seam at 1 1/2″ (from the edge of the fabric) on these same sides.

Now we are going to cut two strips off of each side. First, cut 1 1/4″ from the edge, then move your ruler to cut a second 1 1/4″ strip. It helps to place the stitch line directly on the 1″ mark of your ruler. Do this to both sides, and you will end up with 4 strips.

Using the remaining center piece 5″x10″, stitch again at 1/4″ and 1 1/2″ on the short (5″) sides of the fabric. Trim them the same way as above. You will end up with 4 pieces.

To reassemble the blocks, first sew the short sides onto the center 5″ square, then press.

Next, trim the long strips to 8″ and sew onto the top/bottom of the blocks. Press your finished block.

The finished block size will be 8″ square. You will then begin laying the blocks out with 6 blocks across and 7 rows down. Every other block is rotated 90 degrees. Arrange the blocks to your liking and sew the rows together.

45″ x 52″ Quilt 

We hope you all have a great time making this quilt! For information on kits, please visit our website at www.quiltedworks.com
Barb Johnson with Julie Macfarlane for Quilted Works

Contempo Throw Quilt


At The Calico House, we love to create new projects to showcase the fabulous fabrics in our shop. We’re excited to be accepted as a Moda Bake Shop Chef and share our “Contempo Throw” with you!

This 55¾” x 70½” contemporary quilt features Moda’s “Contempo” line of fabric. A piano key border of 9 coordinating fabrics complements the beautiful center panel and inner borders. The glowing oranges, mustard golds, and relaxing taupe colors make this a perfect autumn throw!


• 1 ⅔ yards of Contempo Spice 32841 14 Moda 
   (For the design to be centered may require more fabric)
• 7/8 yard of Bella Solids Weathered Teak 9900 129 Moda
• ½  yard of Contempo Mustard 32846 18 Moda
• 1 Contempo layer cake OR 1/8 yard cuts of 9 coordinating fabrics

 
Use ¼” seam allowances throughout, unless otherwise noted.
Note: All measurements are based on unwashed fabric.

• Contempo Spice 32841 14 fabric is the center of the quilt. Cut center 43 ½” x 58″
  (pay attention to the pattern repeat).
  Cut the selvage off each side so the pattern is equal on both sides.

• ¼” accent border is Bella Solids Weathered Teak 9900 129.
  Cut (5) ¾” x WOF (width of fabric) strips.

• 2″ inner border is Contempo Mustard 32846 18. Cut (5) 2 ½” x WOF strips.
  Cut (1) 3 ½” x WOF strip. From this strip cut (4) 3 ½” squares for cornerstones,
  then cut 2 ½” x the amount needed to complete the inner border. Join strips for side borders:
  (2) 2 ½” x 59″ strips. Join strips for top and bottom borders: (2) 2 ½” x 48″ strips. Trim to fit.

• ½” accent border is Bella Solids Weathered Teak 9900 129.
  Cut (5) 1″ strips x WOF. 

• The piano keys outer border is created by making strata from (9) coordinating fabrics.
  Cut 3″ x  WOF from each fabric. Join, then cut into 4″ strips. If using a layer cake, cut coordinating 
  colors into 3″ strips. You’ll need 45 strips to make your strata, then cut into 4″ strips.
  
• Cornerstones: Use the (4) 3 ½” squares previously cut from the Contempo Mustard fabric. Add 1″
  Bella Solids Weathered Teak 9900 129 strips to 2 sides (the binding adds the other 2 sides).

 • Quilt as desired.

• Cut Bella Solids Weathered Teak 9900 129 for binding in 3″ strips for a finish border/binding. Sew 
  on with a ½” seam allowance.

Note: Meaurements on the diagram are finished block and strip sizes
(¼” seam allowances are not included on the diagram).


55 ¾” x 70 ½” Throw

We hope you enjoy sewing this great “Contempo” throw.

We have Contempo Throw Kits available at our store or on Etsy. (Quantities Limited)

The Calico House
{www.thecalicohouse.blogspot.com}