Wiggly Whimsy Quilt

Hello All! Rebecca Silbaugh from Ruby Blue Quilting Studio back for another recipe! This time I combined two of my favorite precuts – a Charm Pack and a Jelly Roll to create this adorable lap quilt! It’s constructed very simply, but the design makes the fabrics appear to wiggle around. I love these types of quilts that are really easy to make, but look slightly challenging. Want to learn the secret to this simple wiggle? Let’s go!

You will need:

One Charm Pack for the Colored Squares (I used Good Morning by Me & My Sister)

One Jelly Roll of a Solid for the Background (I used Bella White #9900JR 98)

4 Yards of backing fabric (I used the Yellow with Flowers #22180 15)

5/8 Yard of binding fabric (I used the blue stripe #22184 16)


 To get started, you’ll need to choose 37 Charm Squares. I used most of the colors and took out the lightest fabrics from the pack so they wouldn’t blend in with the background fabrics later on.

 From those Charm Squares, cut each one in half twice yielding 4 equal 2-1/2″ squares.

 Throw all of the cut squares into a bag and mix them up (I love this part!)

 From your Jelly Roll, cut 10 strips into 147 squares 2-1/2″ x 2-1/2″. Also cut 98 pieces 6-1/2″ long from 17 of the strips. Set the rest of the strips aside for now.

 Now that most everything is cut that we’ll need, we can start the construction process. Reach into the bag of cut squares and pull out 98 of them. Make sure the colors and patterns are well mixed. Shake the bag from time to time if you think it needs it.

 Onto each of the colored squares, stitch a background 2-1/2″ square. Press all of the seams to the colored squares. Then separate the units into 2 piles of 49 pieces each.

 Onto one pile, stitch another background square. Press the seams to the colored squares.

Onto the remaining pile, stitch on another colored square. Make sure the colors and patterns in these pieces are well mixed. Press the seams towards the colored squares. You should now have 49 of each unit.

Onto each of the pieces made above, stitch a 2-1/2″ x 6-1/2″ background strip. Press the seams towards the background strip.

Then sew one of each type of units together as shown above. Press the seams towards the background fabric. You should now have 49 blocks, each measuring 6-1/2″ x 8-1/2″.

Stitch seven strips of the blocks together end to end as shown, seven blocks in each strip. Make sure the blocks are all pointing the same direction in the strips. Layout the strips and then…

Switch the direction of every other strip. This is how you get the random-looking pattern which no muss, no fuss.

To complete the quilt top, take 4 strips and cut each one in half, creating 8 pieces roughly 2-1/2″ x 22″. Sew 7 of these pieces onto the end of 7 remaining full length strips.

Trim each strips to measure 56-1/2″ long (this should be the length of your pieced strips). Stitch 6 of the strips between each of the pieced rows.

The final strip, cut in half lengthwise creating 2 strips 1-1/4″ x 56-1/2″. Sew each of these thinner strips on the outer edge of the quilt top. This will make your top finish at roughly 56-1/2″ x 56-1/2″.

To finalize prepping the pieces needed to finish the quilt, cut your backing fabric into 2 pieces 2 yards each and stitch them back together selvage to selvage. Cut the binding fabric into 7 strips x 2-1/2″ or whichever width you prefer.

One quilt, 56-1/2″ x 56-1/2″. Perfect for a lap quilt for anyone. With the selection Bella Solid Colors of Jelly Rolls, you could get a completely different look by switching the background and Charm Squares.

Since I chose to use Good Morning my Me & My Sister (Hi Barb & Mary!!!) I decided to quilt this with flowers all over.

Oh, and I love how the stripe worked as the binding. Now, I could’ve gotten a completely different effect by cutting the binding on the bias, but I’ll save that for another quilt (it gives this candy-cane effect that’s so cool!)

Sooooo, I know many of you have been showing your stashes here on the Bake Shop. Who has a Jelly Roll and a Charm Pack laying around begging to be used? (Me, I’m guilty) Remember this project one of those nights when you can’t sleep and the Local Quilt Shop is closed. You probably have most everything you’ll need to make this already!

For more tutorials like this one, head on over to my blog at rubybluequilts.blogspot.com. I’m working on all sorts of wonderful right now, and I’d love to share it with you.

Speaking of sharing, if you’ve made any of my tutorials, I’d love to see pictures! Go ahead and e-mail them to me at rubybluequilts (at) gmail (dot) com and I’ll be sure to post them on my blog! Have a great day!

Rebecca Silbaugh

Charm Crossing Quilt

Hi everyone!  My name is Tammie Schaffer, and you’ll find me over at craftytammie.com.  I try to make something everyday, and I love quilting!  I’m here today with an easy, charm pack friendly quilt project.  I’ve always called this an Hourglass block, but I recently learned when you put four of them together, it’s called a Yankee Puzzle Block.  The quarter square triangle blocks stitch up quickly and with a little planning, the layout is easy too.  Perfect for solids, it also makes a really fun scrappy quilt as well!

2 charm packs Bella Solids white
2 charm packs Bella Solids 2012 colors
3 yards Bella Solids white for sashing and backing
1/2 yard each Bella Solids Indigo, Peacock, Citrine, and Berrylicious 
1/2 yard Bella Solids Graphite for binding

A design wall is recommended for laying out the quilt.  If you don’t have one, you can use an inexpensive flannel backed tablecloth tacked to the wall.

Ok, let’s begin by sorting our charms.  The 2012 colors charm pack comes with 20 colors, 2 each of most and three each of the indigo, sand, and graphite.  Set aside the 2 off white charms (9900-200) in each pack for another use.  Then pair up a bright white charm with a color charm, until all your charms are matched up. You won’t need all of them – I made extras to have options.  You need 50 pairs for the Yankee Puzzle blocks.  The border and backing uses a few extra.

Next you’ll want to mark the diagonal lines on the white charms.  There are many methods to do this, I prefer to use a quilter’s ruler to mark both the stitching and cutting line.  I feel like I get a more accurate HST when I do this.  But you can use whatever method you prefer.

Chain stitch your blocks.  There’s something so satisfying to me about chain stitching!  Be sure to press them flat before cutting apart.  Then press again.

You now have a pretty stack of HST. Begin matching them up, solid to white, lining up the seams.  I like to pin each end, and feel along the center seams to make sure they have nested evenly.

Again, mark your diagonals, and chain stitch your blocks.  Press, cut apart, and press again.

Yay!  Look at your perfect points and pretty quarter square triangle blocks!

You’ll want to square up your blocks and cut off the dog ears at this point.  I use a square ruler and a rotating cutting mat to make this step go faster. Square them to 4 inches.  I like to keep it all in a basket I can carry with me around the house – squaring up at the kitchen counter, or while I watch TV.

Now the real fun begins!  Start putting together groups of 4 blocks.  We’ll be making a block I recently learned is called a yankee puzzle block.  Using 4 quarter square triangle blocks, arrange them as shown.  12 of them start with a horizontal hourglass in the top left corner, block A.  

The other 13 should have a vertical hourglass in the upper left corner (block B).  

That is pretty important.  Before you stitch your blocks together, make sure they are all going the way they should!  This is where I recommend using a design wall (or floor) and taking a photo of it before stitching.  When I see it in a photo, it’s easier to see if the colors are balanced, or if I have any blocks turned the wrong direction. 
Stitch these groups of four together.  You should now have 12 blocks of A, 13 blocks of B. Lay them out on your design wall.
Now you will cut your sashing pieces.  you will need 25 rectangles of white measuring 4″ x 7.5″. Place one rectangle between each set of blocks, as shown in the photo.

Stitch the blocks and rectangles together into rows, matching up seams.  Stitch your rows together.  I use a pin at each seam, just to help keep everything lined up properly.   I also use a post it note in the top corner of each row.  

Cut your border fabrics. I chose to do a 5″ border.  Cut 6 strips 5″ x WOF.  I also used some of my leftover hourglass blocks in the border, simply continuing the pattern in one spot on each side.  To do this, I pieced a 1 1/2″strip of white along the outside of the block.  Then attach a strip of white border fabric on each end.  Attach the top and bottom border pieces first, then the side borders.

Yay!  The top is finished!  Let’s piece the back.  I used four of the colors – indigo, peacock, berrylicious, and citrine – and simply laid them out in a staggered row.  I chose 7 leftover hourglass blocks, stitched four of them in a row, and randomly placed them in the open spaces.  I used white to float the blocks.  Then just for fun, I used a piece of Moda twill tape and added it to the side of one of the hourglass block.

Quilt as desired.  My friend Ariane from Callie Grace Quilts quilted this for me, and it’s just beautiful!  She chose a paisley design for all the white, and a loopy outline in the hourglass blocks.  It is awesome.  She’s giving away $50 worth of quilting services over on my blog so be sure to stop by!

I used Graphite for the binding, and used four leftover charms at each of the places where I had a hourglass in the border.  Another little use of the extra charms!  I cut my binding, 5 strips, 2 3/4″ by WOF.

If you make this, I’d love to see it!  Be sure to add it to the Moda Bakeshop flickr pool.  Stop by my blog to see another version of this quilt, and enter the giveaway going on too…

one lap quilt, 42″ x 60″

Tammie Schaffer

Q&A with Oda May: Tape Measures, Pre-Washing, and Jelly Rolls

Welcome to today’s edition of Q&A with Oda May. Today Oda May answers reader questions about out of print fabric, pre-washing, and favorite fabrics. Do you have a question for Oda May? Send her an email.

Dear Oda May,
I was thinking yesterday how wonderful it would be for Moda to release a mini range of the American Jane Tape Measure Fabrics.  They are one of those fabrics that just add something special to small projects.  I have some fabric eggs that I made up from a kit, which I treasure because there was a square of the yellow tape measure fabric in the kit. It was the whole reason I bought the kit!  A small re-release would be wonderful. Any thoughts?
Tape Measure-less in Tampa
Dear Tape Measure-less,
Oh, those lovely tape measures! I know just the ones you mean. They were from American Jane’s Recess collection. They do add a bit of whimsy and fun to any sewing project. I’d love to see them in print again myself. Maybe a few whispered sweet nothings in the right ear can make that happen. But in the meantime, I have another print you will love! It’s from Moda’s Made with Love collection:

It comes in yellow, red, and aqua.

Dear Oda May,
Do you pre-wash your fabrics? I haven’t been washing my fabrics because I wasn’t sure if it was necessary.
Cleaning Conundrum in Concord
Dear Cleaning,
Prepare yourself for lots of “pre’s” in my answer! Moda pre-cuts never need to be pre-washed. Pre-washing means pressing and that takes a lot of the ease of use factor out of the pre-cuts, and you could also end up with a big tangle of thread ends. If you are using yardage for clothing, definitely pre-wash so that your seams don’t go all wonky on you. I would also recommend pre-washing vintage or any non-traditional fabric you may be using in yours quilts (sheets, clothing, etc.)
Prewashed and Pressed,

Dear Oda May,
I have this jelly roll of Wonderland by MoMo that I have been hoarding for a long time. I think I’m ready to finally use it, but I don’t know what to make. Oda May, please help me!
Wondering about Wonderland in Winnetka
Dear Wondering
Remember, dear, it’s just fabric. There is always a new collection being released so you can fall in love again.  Make hay while the sun shines! Once you sew your beloved fabric into a quilt, you will still have that precious fabric but it will have become something lovely and useful.
To find recipes made with a particular fabric line, use our search field on the main page. The Bakery page will help you search for projects made with a certain type of pre-cut.  
With Pieceful Thoughts,

A Window to Summer Quilt

Hi, it’s Kristy here from Handmade Retro. You know how there are some times that you have the time and energy to work on something really involved and intricate and others where you just feel like a simple sew with very little cutting? This quilt is for those times like the second option. It is also a great option for simple graphic prints or novelty prints you don’t want to chop up too small.

1 x charm pack of Summersville by Lucie Summers

0.5 yard of Bella Solids in Betty’s Orange (9900-124), Kelly (9900-76), Christmas Red (9900-16), Horizon Blue (9900-111), Black (9900-99)

2.5 yards in Bella Solids Snow (9900-11) – for top and binding
3.75 yards for backing (I used the green leaf  print – 31703 15)

For Quilting

DMC Perle 8 thread in Black (310), Orange (900), Green (702)
Finca Perle 8 thread in Red (1490), Verigated Aqua/Teal (9770), Cream (1211)

From the cream solid
Cut 7 – 2.5″ strips – set these aside from the binding
Cut 12 – 5.25″ strips and cross cut into 5.25″ squares.

You will be able to get 7 squares from each strip – you will need 84 squares total.

Cut each of the squares into triangles in half from corner to corner – you will end up with 168.

From the Orange Solid
Cut 1 strip 4″ wide – cross cut into 10 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner as the cream solid.
You need to finish with 20 triangles.

From the Red Solid
Cut 1 strip 4″ wide – cross cut into 10 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner as the fabrics earlier.
You need to finish with 20 triangles.

From the Green Solid 
Cut 2 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 18 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
You need to finish with 36 triangles.

From the Black Solid
Cut 2 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 20 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
You need to finish with 40 triangles.

From the Teal Solid
Cut 3 strips 4″ wide – cross cut into 26 4″ squares and then again into triangles in the same manner.
You need to finish with 52 triangles.

That’s it. All the cutting is done.


Split your bundle into color families – in Summersville you will have 5 (from left to right – black, red, blue, green, orange). All the blocks will be constructed in the same way – just with the matching solid.

Find the center of two opposite sides of a charm square and finger press to mark. Take two corresponding color triangles and find the center on the long side in the same way.

Match the center marks and pin at the center mark and each end, you will have some overhang on each end. That’s a good thing. 

Sew both seams.
Tip: I worked with one color at a time, pinning the triangles onto opposite side of all the squares of one color and then chain piecing them down one side and then the other.

Press the triangles open to end up with something like this. I recommend pressing your seams towards the triangle.

Find the center of the two sides without a triangle and finder press to mark. Do the same with the rest of  the triangles and pin. Sew, chain piecing as before.

Press triangle out – you’ve got a square again! Trim the dog ears from the center of each of the four sides.

The cream triangles are added in exactly the same way – the only difference is I only mark the center on the triangle – I match this with the point of the charm square – this is not the edge of the seam on the edge of the block!

 Sew a triangle on opposite sides, press out, repeat with the remaining sides. Trim the new dog ears.

Another square!

Repeat with all the other colors.

Lay out your blocks until you are happy with the distribution of the colours. You should have 42 blocks for a 6×7 layout.

When you are satisfied ,sew the blocks together in rows, then pairs, then fours, then join and add on the last row nesting seams between the blocks and pressing row seams towards the bottom of the quilt.

You have a quilt top!


I pin baste my quilts. First I tape the backing to the floor pulling tight (but not stretching the fabric) and taping the edges flat. 

Tip: If you have joins or designs you want to match up the floorboards joints or tile grout lines can be helpful here!


For this quilt I hand quilted with Perle cotton No. 5 (see garnishes for colors I used) ¼” outside the print square and in a square inside the larger cream areas.

I use straight of grain binding, machine sew to the front, mitering corners and hand stitched to the back.

54″x62″  lap size quilt

Kristy Ward


Studio Tour: Patchwork Posse

Welcome to our final day of Studio Tours! Today we are visiting the studio of  Moda Bake Shop Chef Becky Jorgensen of the blog Patchwork Posse. If you missed the other spaces, you can see them all {here}.

{Have you visited our Show Off Your Stash Link Party yet? Tour the sewing spaces of other Moda Bake Shop readers like you!}

Here we go! Becky doesn’t just have a sewing room…she has a sewing cottage! She converted a backyard cold storage into a 15′ X 12′ work space that fits *almost* everything. (Quilters always need a little bit more room, don’t we?)

Let’s step inside a for a look around.Watch your step!

Becky has a great stash and a nice quiet spot to work on her projects. She collects buttons, dolls and other little things that catch her eye.  Not much has been done on the decorating side of the things, but it’s on her to do list!

I spy a long arm in the background! What a lucky gal.

Thanks for letting us into your space, Becky! You can see more of her studio {here}.

With Long-Arm Envy,

Chic Mama Stroller Organizer

Hello again, it’s Jennie from Clover & Violet and I’m here today with a fun project for those with little ones!  As a busy mom, I am always looking for ways to incorporate quilting with fun and function, so today I’m sharing my quilted stroller organizer.

1 {Coquette} Charm Pack
1/2 yard Small {Flowers} Print
1/2 yard Large {Paisley} Print
1 yard Fusible Woven Interfacing
1 – 10″ zipper
1 – 16″ zipper
10″ Stem-a-Seam {optional}
20″ – 5/8″ Velcro
6 Mini Anorak Snaps & Snap Tools

Begin by selecting 27 charms, cut 6 in half  for 12 – 2 1/2″ x 5″ pieces, from one 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangle, cut a 2 1/2″ square.

Sew the charms into seven rows of three whole squares and one half as shown.  Sew one additional row out of three 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangle and one 2 1/2″ square.  Cut the rows of whole charm squares in half lengthwise.  Arrange the rows as shown into 12 rows for the body of the organizer and 3 rows for the pocket.

Optional:  The stroller I made this for is a convertible with a lower, second seat.  So, I’ve added these three toy loops so my little one can have toys.

Cut an additional charm square in half and use the leftover piece from the 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles for the loops.  Fold the pieces in half longways, right sides together, stitch long seam, turn right side out, and fold in half.  Sew the loops to one of the center rows of the organizer.  Continue sewing all the rows together to form the main panel.  Sew the three pocket rows together and set aside.

Fuse one 16″ x 25 1/2″ piece of woven interfacing to the wrong side of the patchwork panel and quilt as desired {I used random horizontal and vertical lines}.  Note: for a more quilted look, use fusible fleece or batting.  I chose the woven interfacing because I wanted my organizer to be lightweight.

From the small print half yard, cut one 10″ x 19″ rectangle for the zipper pocket.  Line one 10″ edge up with the first row of strips on the main organizer, right sides together, pin in place.  One inch below the edge of the pocket piece, draw an 8 1/2″ x 5/8″ rectangle.  Stitch around the rectangle.  Then, carefully cut a slit down the middle of the stitched box, clipping toward the corners.  Push the pocket piece through the opening and iron.

Cut the strip of Steam-a-Seam in half and fuse to the right side of the zipper.  Remove paper and fuse zipper to the inside of the pocket.  Using the zipper foot, stitch in place.  Fold the pocket piece in half and stitch around three sides as shown.  I stitched through the bag front as well, to give the pocket the largest amount of room.

Next, take the pieced pocket panel that was set aside, fuse a 16″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle of interfacing to the back.  From the small flower piece, cut one 16″ x 6 1/2″ rectangle, this is the pocket lining.  Layer the pocket piece and lining right sides together.  Sew along the top and bottom edges, leaving the sides open.  Turn right side out, press.  Then quilt in the same manner as for main organizer.

Following the manufacturer’s directions punch holes for the snaps on the pocket panel and the main organizer.  I positioned mine at 1/4″ from the bottom of the third row of tiles on the main organizer, 6″ from each edge.  When punching the holes on the main organizer, be sure not to punch through the zipper pocket piece.  Punch matching holes on the pocket.  I use Fray Check around my punched holes to keep them in place.  Apply snaps.

Snap the pocket piece to the main organizer.  Then stitch 1/8″ and 1/4″ from the bottom edge of the pocket to secure in place.

From the small flower cut two 2″ x WOF strips for the ties.  Sew, right sides together, along the long seam, back stitching at beginning and end.  Turn right side out.  Position the ties 3/4″ from edge, with an equal length of fabric on the top and bottom of organizer. 

Stitch the tie down.  I stitched mine in three boxes, 1/2″ from top, right above the pocket, and right below the pocket, that way I could hang a clip for my keys, shopping bags, or sunglasses from the loops.

Cut the Velcro into two 10″ lengths.  Sew the hook side to the back of the organizer, 3/4″ from the edge.  Cut the loop portion of the Velcro into four 5″ pieces.  For my stroller I measured 7″ for the ties to hook around the handles.  Pin Velcro in place and trim tie to 1/2″ longer than Velcro.  Fold the 1/2″ under the Velcro for a finished edge.  Stitch in place.  Note: I added snaps to my organizer ties for sturdiness, since my baby will be sitting under it.  However, the Velcro allows me to move it to different strollers and adjust the ties.

From the large flowers cut two 16″ x 12 1/2″ for the lining and two 16″ x 7″ for the inside pocket.  Construct the pocket as for outside pocket, omitting interfacing and quilting.  Place the pocket on one inside lining piece.

Divide pocket in thirds and sew along lines to create three pockets.  Note, if you use specific cups or bottles, adjust your pocket widths accordingly.

To install the top zipper, place the zipper face down on the outer piece.  Note:  Make sure the zipper pull is on the same side of the organizer as the smaller zipper’s.  Place one lining piece, right sides together, on top of the main organizer.  Use the zipper foot to sew near the zipper.  Turn right sides out, then place zipper, face down, on other side of main organizer.  Layer lining as before, sew.

Place the lining right sides together and the main organizer right sides together, pin zipper tape toward lining.  Stitch along the sides of organizer and lining with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Stitch along the bottom of the lining, leaving a 4″ opening.  Turn right sides out through the opening.  Stitch the opening closed near the edge of the lining.  Then, just tuck the lining inside the organizer and zip!

Optional:  As I mentioned before, I chose to add snaps to secure my organizer when using my double stroller.  I added the snaps after sewing the organizer together, to help keep the lining in place on the inside.  I placed the snaps right above and below the Velcro, as shown.

One fun organizer sure to spice up any stroller and carry everything you need on hand!

{Clover & Violet}