Hourglass Star Quilt


Hello!  My name is Erica from Kitchen Table Quilting and I am here to share a quilt made with a fat eighth bundle of  Bonnie and Camille’s beautiful new April Showers collection.  This quilt is really quick to put together and it is a great way to show of some of those pretty fabrics.


1 Fat Eighth Bundle April Showers
2.5 Yards Moda Weave
1/4 Yard Teal Border Fabric
1/2 Yard Umbrella Border Fabric
1/2 Yard Binding Fabric

From your background fabric cut:
4 strips 8″xWOF.  Subcut into 16 blocks 8″x 8″.
4 strips 4.5″xWOF.  Subcut into 32 blocks 4.5″x 4.5″.
10 strips 4″xWOF.  Subcut into 64 blocks 4″x 4″.

Using the prints that will create the most contrast with your background fabric cut:
16 squares 8″x 8″
32 squares 4.5″x 4.5″

Borders:
Cut 3 strips 2.5″x WOF
Cut 3 strips 5.5″x WOF

Binding:
Cut 7 strips 2.5″x WOF

For each block you will need:
1 – 8″x 8″ print
1 – 8″x 8″ background fabric
2 – 4.5″x 4.5″ print
2 – 4.5″ x 4.5″ background fabric
2 – 4″x 4″ background fabric

 Take the 8″x 8″ background fabric square and the 4.5″x 4.5″ background fabric squares and draw a diagonal line using a washable pen onto the wrong side of the fabric.

 Place the background square together with a print square of the same size, right sides together, and sew 1/4″ away from the drawn line on either side.

 Cut along the drawn line.

 Press the seams open.

 Trim the larger blocks down to 7.5″ square and the smaller blocks down to 4″ square.  When trimming line up the diagonal on your ruler with the seam to make sure that your trimmed square will be straight.

 Admire your trimmed block.

 Arrange the blocks like the image below.

 Start by piecing together the smaller squares into pairs.

Piece together the blocks in the order illustrated in the following photos.

 Repeat to make 15 more blocks.

Sew together the border pieces to create 2 pieces 2.5″x 57.5″ for Border A and 2 pieces 5.5″x 57.5″ for Border B.

Arrange the blocks and borders as shown below.  Sew together the blocks into rows and sew the Border A and Border B pieces together.

 Sew the rows and borders together to create the finished quilt top.

Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

Finished size: 57″x70″

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

Finding the 4-Patches Quilt


Hi, I’m Dawn Cornell and today I have a cute quilt for you. It’s made with American Jane’s new line, Ducks in a Row. I call this quilt “Finding the 4-Patches” because it has a series of 4-patches in the main and secondary blocks. It’s all surrounded by a fun piano key border, making the most of two layer cakes and some beautiful Bella Solids.

Ready? Let’s sew!

2 Layer Cakes (I used “Ducks in a Row” by American Jane)
⅔ yard Bella Solids Lemon 9900-131, Green 9900-101, and Orange 9900-80
1 yard Bella Solids Cayene (red)  9900-256 and Cobalt (blue) 9900-227
1½ yards Bella Solids Black 9900-99 for sashing, border and binding.
5½ yards for Backing (21650-11 multi is a good choice)

Large 4-Patches
Cutting

From the Bella Solids (except the black), cut:

  • 2 – 10″ x width of fabric (WOF) strips from the Lemon, Green and Orange
  • 3 – 10″ X WOF strips from the Red and Blue

Sub-cut these strips into 10″ squares, yielding 4 squares from each strip (for a total of 8 each lemon, green, and orange squares and 12 each red and blue squares)

Cut all the leftover Bella Solids from this step into 2″ x 10″ strips to use in the border.

Piecing the Large 4-Patches
Pair layer cakes with the solids as pictured below (each Layer Cake piece will yield 2 blocks).

You will make:
-2 red/green dot  and 4 red/lemon floral
-2 blue/red dot and 4 blue/red floral
-4 orange/blue floral
-4 lemon/black floral
-4 green/orange floral

This combination will make a total of 24 large 4-patches.

This quick piecing method for large 4-patches yields two 4-patches from each set you sew…With right sides together and the solid on top, stitch along the two side raw edges. Cut in half (5″ from the raw edge, not the sewn edges) and press to the solid.

Lay the two halves right sides together with the opposite fabrics touching and the center seam locking. Draw a line down the middle across the seam (5″ from the raw edge). Sew 1/4″ seam on each side of the drawn line. Cut on the line and voila you have two 4-patches. Press to one side and square to 9″.

NOTE: If you set your ruler on the center seam at 4 1/2″, trim top and side, turn block 180 degrees and do the same, the block will square evenly.

Pieced Blocks
Cutting

Pair the layer cakes with the solids as pictured below (each layer cake piece will yield 2 blocks).

Make:

2 blue/red check and 4 blue/red multi print
2 red/green check and 4 red/green multi print
4 lemon/black multi print
4 orange/blue multi print
4 green/orange multi print

This combination will make a total of 24 pieced block units.

Layer right sides together, solid on the top, cut each double layer into 2″ strips (each set will yield 4 strips 2″ x 10″)

Repeat with each pair.

From these strip sets you will sub cut:

A – 2″ x 5″ strips

B –  2″ x 3½” strips

C –  2″ squares

A segments: Right sides together and solid on top, sew each segment on the short end as shown in photo above. Press to the solid. Should measure 2″ x 9½”.

B segments: Right sides together and solid on top, sew each segment on the long side as shown in photo above. Press to solid.

Sew these segments together with the print on top and under the needle first.This makes an elongated 4-patch. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” x 6½”

You will have a total of 48 – 4-patches when all sets are sewn

C segments: Right sides together, solid on top, sew each segment together press to the solid. Now sew two segments together with the print on top and under the needle first to make a 4 Patch. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” square.


You will have a total of 48 – 4-patches when all sets are sewn.

Sew two 4 Patch units together with the solid on top and under the needle first. Press to one side. Should measure 3½” x 6½”

 
Sew B units to top and bottom of  C units, right sides together along the 6½” side.

Note:  The two fabrics under the needle should be the same and the center seam should lock.

Press to one side. Should measure 6½” x 9½”.

Sew A units to each side of the above units along the 9½” side.

Note:  The two fabrics under the needle should be the same and the center seam should lock.

Press to one side. Should measure 9½”. If not square up the same way you did the large 4-patches.

Extra Large (XL) 4-Patches

Make XL 4-patches using the Pieced Blocks and the 4-Patch Blocks. Are you keeping up with how many 4-patches we’ve made so far?

Each of these 4-patch units should measure 17½” square and you will have a total of 12 XL 4-patches.

Sashing and Borders

Cutting
Cut the Bella Solids black into 2″ x WOF strips. You will use 17 strips: 9 for sashing and 8 for the first border. Set aside the 8 border strips. Sub cut the 9 sashing strips into 2″ x 17½” strips. Yields 18 but you will only use 17.

From the layer cake print (white with black and red dots) cut 6 –  2″ squares for the corner stones.

Piecing
Assemble the blocks, sashing, and corner stones in rows as shown below.

When assembled should measure 73″ x 54½”.

Making the First Border

Sew 8 Bella black border strips in sets of 2 to make 4 strips measuring 2″ x approximately 86″. Cut 2 strips 73″ long and 2 strips 58″ long. Attach the long strips to the sides of the quilt top first. Press towards the strip. Add the top and bottom borders strips and press towards the strips. The quilt top should now measure  76½” x 58.

Making the Second/Outer Border

From your remaining fabrics, set aside 2 white with black and red dots layer cake pieces and 1 black WOF strip for the corner blocks.

Cut all remaining 10″ squares from the layer cake and the solids into 2″ x 4½” strips. Piece together along the long sides of the strips, starting with red solid and ending with red solid.

Solid + Print + Solid + Print etc.

Piece together 51 total strips for each side and 39 total strips for the top and bottom. You may need to trim a little from each end to fit. Press strip sets and set aside.


Making the 4-Patch Corner Blocks

Cut the white dot and black dot layer cake squares into 2″ x 10″ strips (total of 5 strips from each layer cake square).

Sew a white strip to a black strip along the 10″ side. Make 2 of these units. Press towards the black strip. Sub cut into 2″ x 3½” segments. Sew together in pairs to make 4 – 4-patches. (More 4-patches! Are you counting?)

From the solid red, cut 4 strips measuring 2″ x 3½” strips and 4 strips measuring 2″ x 5¼”. Sew a short strip to the bottom of a black and white 4-patch and along strip to one of the sides as shown in photo above. Square to 4½”, trimming only on the red solid fabric. Make 4 of these units.

Attach the corners to each end of the top and bottom pieced border strips with the red to the outside.

Sew the long pieced border strip on the quilt first and press to the first border. Add the top and bottom borders.

If you are machine quilting, I suggest you stitch ⅛” seam around the out side edge of the border to stabilize the seams.

Quilt, Bind, and Enjoy!


76½” x 85″

Oh, by the way, how many 4-patches did you find in this quilt?

Dawn Cornell

This Way Up?? Quilt


Hello! This is Margie from Ribbon Candy Quilt Company with an easy, fun project today. Let’s get started.

{Mixed Bag fabrics}

11 Fat Quarters – 3 for the Center diamonds and 8 for the Arrows
¼ yard orange – top block
¼ yard yellow – bottom block
1¾ yard blue for stop border and outer border
⅓ yard each of 4 fabrics for middle border
½ yard orange for binding
4 yards for backing

Here’s what I used:


CUTTING
From each of the 3 fat quarters that you are using for the center diamonds, cut one 12½” x 12½” square

NOTE: Arrows 1-4 point up and arrows 5-8 point down.

For Arrows 1 and 4, cut one 6½” x 8½” rectangle and one 6½” x 6½” square


For Arrows 2 and 3, cut one 8½” x 12½” rectangle and two 6½” x 6½” squares

For Arrows 5 and 8, cut one 6½” x 6½” square and one 6½” x 14½” rectangle


For Arrows 6 and 7, cut one 12½” x 14½” rectangle and two 6½” x 6½” square

PIECING THE ARROWS
Sew Arrow blocks 1 -4 together in a row as shown and press seams to one side.

Sew Bottom Arrows blocks 5 – 8 together in a row as shown and press seams to one side.

Arrow Block sets:

Now to make the Center Diamonds. Place your Center Diamond 12½” x 12½” squares in the order you wish them to appear in your quilt.

Take your Arrow Point  1- 4….6½” x 6½” squares and lay them out as shown above.  Each Center Diamond will have a different fabric in each corner. Using a pencil, draw a diagonal line from point to point on the wrong side of each  6½” x 6½” square.


Line up the raw edges in the top left corner and pin in place.  Sew on the pencil line. Press the Arrow Point square back and trim excess fabric.

Repeat with all top arrow points. Here’s what your Center Diamonds should look like at this point.

We are now going to work on the bottom half of the Diamonds. Lay out the Arrow Points 5 – 8 …. 6½” x 6½” squares as shown. Make sure you have the Arrow Point squares in order or your Arrows will not turn out.

Repeat the process of drawing a diagonal line, sewing on the line, pressing, and trimming as outlined above.

Continue to make your Diamonds and Arrow Points until you have all three Center Diamonds completed.

Sew your Center Diamond blocks together in this order.  Press seams to one side. Layout your Top Arrow Block set and your Center Diamond set. Do you see the Arrows appear? 

Match your seams and pin these sections together. Sew and press seams to one side. The top half is done! Repeat steps to attach the bottom arrow blocks.

BORDERS
For the first border, cut one 8½” x 36½” strip from each of two fabrics.


Sew on the top and bottom borders as shown.  Press seams to one side.

For the second border, cut 5 – 2½” x WOF strips. Set 2 strips aside for top/bottom border. Piece remaining strips end-to-end and cut into 2 strips measuring 50½” long. These are your side borders.

Sew on side borders and press seams. Sew on top and bottom borders and press. At this point the quilt measures 40½”  x 54½”, a great size for a baby, just a thought.)

For the third border, from each 1/3 yard, cut  2 – 6½” x WOF strips. Piece strips together, matching like fabrics. Cut middle borders as follows:

  • Side middle borders measure 6½” x 54½”
  • Top and bottom middle borders are 6½” x 52½”


Sew on side middle borders.  Press seams to border. Sew on top and bottom middle borders.  Press seams to borders.

For the fourth/outer border, cut 8 – 6½” X WOF strips.  Piece strips together end-to-end. Press strip and cut as follows:

  • 2 side outer border strips measuring 6½” x 66½”
  • 2 top/bottom outer border strips measuring 6½” x 64½”

Sew on side outer borders.  Press seams to border. Sew on top and bottom outer borders.  Press seams to border.  DONE!!!

Baste and quilt as desired.  I cut my binding at 2¼” x WOF.  You will need to cut 7 strips for binding.


One Quilt finishes 64½” x 78½”

ENJOY!!!!!

Thanks for stopping by.

Margie Ullery
{ribboncandyquilts.blogspot.com}

Beach Ball Baby Quilt

Hi! This is Jess from The Elven Garden with my first recipe for Moda Bake Shop. I wanted to challenge myself to see if I could make a quilt using just a jelly roll (Sphere by Zen Chic), and I came up with the Beach Ball lap/baby quilt. It does use a fat quarter of background solid as well, but other than that a jelly roll is all you need!

This quilt is made using large equilateral (60 degree) triangles, arranged so they form hexagons across the quilt top. The layout options for the hexagons are unlimited – if you would like to have a play with some other layout options, you can download and print triangular graph paper here. This quilt measures 45″ x 50″, but you could easily make it bigger by using additional jelly rolls.


One Jelly Roll of Sphere by Zen Chic
One Fat Quarter (or quarter yard) of Bella Snow
1/2 Yard Binding fabric
2 1/2 Yards backing fabric
50″ x 55″ piece of batting

All seam allowances throughout the tutorial are a scant quarter inch, and I have pressed my seams open at all stages.

Begin by sorting the jelly roll into colour sets, separating the lighter value prints (in this case the grey and white based prints) from the darker ones.

STEP 2:
Next, split each colour into sets of three strips. Some of my strip sets included one strip with a contrast in colour or value.

STEP 3:
Sew each of these strip sets together along the long edge. For the strip sets with one contrasting strip, make the contrasting strip the central strip in the set, as this will form a continuous ring within the hexagons. Press your seams open.

Each strip set should measure 6.5″ wide by width of fabric.

STEP 4:
Cut each of the strip sets into equilateral triangles using either a 60 degree triangle ruler:

Or using the 60 degree line on your ruler, lining up the line on your ruler with the bottom or top of the strip set.


Continue down the strip set, flipping the strip set or ruler as you go. You will end up with 9 triangles from each strip set.


STEP 5:
To avoid trimming off the sides of the quilt, and losing some of the width of the quilt, I added setting triangles at the end of each row. To make these, cut strips the same width as your strip sets (6.5″) from your fat quarter of background fabric. Make a 60 degree cut with your ruler, and then make a vertical cut, 4″ in along the long edge, and 1/4″ from the shorter side (see below). If you would prefer to give yourself more wiggle room when squaring your quilt, you can make the setting triangles a little wider (4.25″ in from the long side).

Continue along the strip, cutting a total of 16 setting triangles. 


STEP 6:
At this stage, you could lay out your pieces and start piecing the rows together. I found it easier to piece together my darker coloured triangles into half-hexagons first, as it was much easier to switch them around on my design wall until I found a layout I liked. It also makes it easier to keep your triangles in the correct order as you are sewing the rows together. 

Do not sew the light value (grey and white) prints in this way.



When sewing these half hexagons together, match up the seams along one edge and pin at each seam (I pin the side of the seam that will be sewn first). 


You will end up with three half-hexagons from each strip set. Do not trim off the little triangles formed at the outer corners, as these are very useful when aligning your triangles when sewing the rows together.


STEP 7: 
Lay out your pieces into rows according to the photo below, or as desired (here I have 8 rows of 12 triangles, plus a setting triangle at the end of each row). If you place them carefully, the light value triangles will form partial hexagons that appear to be sitting behind the coloured hexagons.



When sewing the triangles into rows, you will need to offset the pieces slightly to account for the seam allowance and produce a straight row. It is helpful to use the little ‘tags’ of fabric produced by pressing your seams open when lining up your pieces. In the photo below, you can see these ‘tags’ on the bottom left and top right of the half-hexagons. 

When the pieces are placed together ready to be sewn, they will cross each other at an angle like so (the seam to be sewn is at the right of the photo):

If we look more closely at these pieces, you can see how the ‘tags’ where the seams have been pressed open allow you to line up the two pieces.






STEP 8:
Once your rows are sewn, sew your rows together in pairs, carefully pinning each of the points where your seams meet, so that your points will meet up. Because there are a lot of bias edge in the quilt top, it is possible to ease (or slightly stretch) some of your pieces to make the points meet.

Continue sewing the rows together in pairs, until you have a complete quilt top. 


STEP 9:
Baste, quilt and bind as desired! To make your backing, cut two 15″ by width of fabric strips from one end of your backing fabric. Join these end to end to make one long 15″ wide strip. Remove the selvedges from the remaining backing fabric, and join the long strip you just made to one side of the backing fabric using a 1/2″ seam. 


One lap quilt, 45″ x 50″

Jess Frost
{theelvengarden.blogspot.com}

Candy Circle Quilt



Hi there, this is Cheryl from Meadow Mist Designs and I am so excited to share my first project for Moda Bake Shop!  I love the cute Moda candy packs and all of Fig Tree & Co.’s fabric lines so I was thrilled to combine them to make the Candy Circle baby quilt.  With just four mini charm packs (or just one charm pack), a focal print fabric, and some background fabric, you can have a cute baby quilt ready to gift.


4 mini charm packs (also called candy packs) or 1 charm pack:  Mirabelle by Fig Tree & Co.

3/4 yard of a focal print: Mirabelle Breeze 20225
5/8 yard of a background fabric (3/4 yard if you include the optional pieced backing): Bella Solids White Bleached
3/8 yard for binding: Mirabelle Bark 20227
1 and 1/4 yards for backing: Bella Solids Green Olive (for a 2″ overhang)




Step One – Cutting the Fabrics
*Note: if you cut each strip in each step you may have a few extra pieces cut.

Candy Squares

1)      If starting with a charm pack, cut each (5” x 5”) charm square into 4 (2.5” x 2.5”) patchwork squares for a total of 168 squares (2.5” x 2.5”) (if starting with candy packs, skip to step 2)

2)      Select 132 of the 168 squares (2.5” x 2.5”) to use in the front of your quilt.  Pick squares with good contrast with the background.  You can use the leftover squares for a pieced backing.


Focal Fabric
1)      Cut 3 strips 4.5” x WOF strips

      a)      Cut each strip into 4.5” x 4.5” squares (9 per strip) for 24 squares (4.5” x 4.5”)
These 4.5” x 4.5” squares are the “full focal blocks”.


2)      Cut 4 strips 2.5” x WOF
a)      Cut 2 strips into 2.5” x 4.5” rectangles (9 per strip) for 12 rectangles (2.5” x 4.5”)
b)   Cut 2 strips into 2.5” x 2.5” squares (16 per strip) for 28 squares (2.5” x 2.5”)
  

Background Fabric (abbreviated bg in this pattern)
1)      Cut 8 strips 2.5” x WOF
a)      Cut 4 strips into 2.5” x 4.5” rectangles (9 per strip) for 28 rectangles (2.5” x 4.5”)

      b)      Cut 4 strips into 2.5” x 2.5” squares (16 per strip) for 64 squares (2.5” x 2.5”)

  
Step Two: Assembling the Blocks

The Candy Circle quilt contains 6 types of blocks.  Using the following amounts of fabric pieces and following the sewing pictures, sew pieces into rows and then rows together into blocks.  Press all seams open.

Full Focal Blocks:
24 focal print squares (4.5″ x 4.5″)

1/4 Focal Blocks
Using 16 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 16 bg rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), and 16 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 16 1/4 Focal Blocks

3/4 Focal Blocks
Using 12 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 12 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), and 12 focal print rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), make 12 3/4 Focal Blocks

Full Patchwork Blocks:
Using 48 focal print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 12 Full Patchwork Blocks


3/4 Patchwork Blocks
Using 72 patchwork print squares (2.5″ x 2.5″) and 24 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 24 3/4 Focal Blocks

1/4 Patchwork Blocks
Using 12 bg squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), 12 bg rectangles (2.5″ x 4.5″), and 12 patchwork squares (2.5″ x 2.5″), make 12 1/4 Patchwork Blocks


Step Three: Assembling the Quilt Sections

The quilt contains 4 quilt sections, each section containing 25 blocks in a 5 rows x 5 columns arrangement.  Each section contains the following number of blocks:

 

Arrange the 25 blocks in a 5 by 5 block arrangement as shown below:


Sew blocks together into rows (pressing seams open) and then sew rows together pining at each intersecting seam (pressing seams open).


Repeat 3 more times for a total of 4 quilt sections.  (Alternatively, you may layout the full 10 x 10 block arrangement for the whole quilt, sew the blocks into rows, then sew the rows together).

Sew the 4 quilt sections together (pressing seams open).

Optional Pieced Backing

Select 22 patchwork squares
Cut 2 additional strips 2.5″ x WOF of the background fabric

Sew the 22 patchwork squares into a row, then sew the 2.5″ x WOF background strips onto either side of the patchwork row.

Slice the backing yardage (I made my cut about 2/3 of the way across the fabric) and sew the patchwork section into the background yardage.  



Step 4: Finishing the Quilt

1)    Layer the quilt top, batting, and backing and baste the quilt.

2)    Quilt as desired.  I quilted the focal fabric areas in a straight line lattice, quilted the background areas using a small pebble design, and quilted the patchwork squares with straight line quilting.

3)    Bind the quilt using 5 strips 2.5” x WOF (for straight, not bias binding).  More information on binding can be found here.

Thank you so much for joining me in my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial.  I would love to see what you make with the pattern, please add your quilts to the Moda Bake Shop flicker group and the Meadow Mist Designs flicker group.  Visit this page on my blog (www.meadowmistdesigns.blogspot.com) to see the quilt pattern rendered in other colors including a holiday version.

Cheryl Brickey
{
Meadow Mist Designs}


Main Squeeze Quilt


Hello Moda Bake Shop readers! I am a new chef here, and I am honored to be a part of the Bake Shop. I blog at Live. Love. Create. and love bright, bold colors and modern designs. My quilt design was named Main Squeeze based on the X and O blocks it creates, like a “hugs and kisses” quilt. This pattern yields a large throw sized quilt, 60 by 80 inches when finished.

19 Fat Quarters of coordinating colors, I am using Sphere by Zen Chic.
3 1/4 yards solid or print for background fabric, I used Moda Bella white
3/4 yard solid or print for binding, I used Sphere by Zen Chic
4 1/4 yards coordinating solid or print for back, again I used Sphere by Zen Chic

Step 1:  From your background fabric, cut

12 – 10.5 inch squares
24 – 5.5 inch squares
48 – 6 inch squares
24 – 2.5 inch squares

Step 2:  For the rings, I labeled each ring with the letters A-J, then labeled the half-square triangles number 1 and the “gem” square number 2. The blocks I call “gem blocks” are the squares that just have the small triangle in the corner, as seen below.

So the first ring on the top left of the quilt will need two different fat quarters, fabrics labeled A1 and A2, and so on.  Each ring in my quilt was made up of the same color fabric in two different prints, and the amount needed is based on this layout. You can download a printout of this quilt, so you can test your color combinations here. I think it would also look great if the “gem” blocks are a contrasting color to give each ring some pop.

From your 19 fat quarters cut the following.

A1: (6) 6 inch squares            
A2: (2) 5.5 inch squares              
B1: (2) 6 inch squares
B2: (2) 5.5 inch squares
C1: (8) 6 inch squares
C2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
D2: (1) 5.5 inch square
E1: (8) 6 inch squares
E2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
F1: (2) 6 inch squares
F2: (2) 5.5 inch squares

G1: (6) 6 inch squares
G2: (2) 5.5 inch square
H1: (8) 6 inch squares
H2: (4) 5.5 inch squares
I1: (6) 6 inch squares
I2: (2) 5.5 inch squares
J1: (2) 6 inch squares
J2: (1) 5.5 inch square

To keep everything organized, I kept all my fabric and blocks labeled with sticky notes throughout the quilt top assembly, like in the picture below.

Step 3:  Sew your half-square triangle blocks. Take one 6-inch background piece and lightly draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner on the back. Repeat this for all your 6-inch background pieces.

Step 4:  With the right sides together, place one background piece and one A1 square together. Sew a scant 1/4 inch away from the line you drew on your background piece, and repeat on the other side. Your block should look like this when both sides are sewn.

Repeat for all remaining blocks labeled 1.

Step 5: Cut your half square triangles in half diagonally, on the line you initially drew. Press the seams to the darker print.

Step 6: Carefully trim your half square triangles to 5.5 inches. I line up my blocks with the seam on a 45 degree line on my mat, with a little bit of overhang on each side. I like to cut from all four sides to yield a more accurate cut, but be careful, you will not have much waste!

Step 7: Take your 2.5 inch background pieces and again lightly draw a line from one corner to the other.

Step 8: Place one 2.5 inch background piece in the corner of one 5.5 inch A2 block. Sew just off of the line, on the side closer to the corner.

Note: If you sew directly on the line you drew, when you press your block out you will lose a tiny amount from each block.

Step 9: Trim excess fabric 1/4 inch from the seam. You can also opt to leave this fabric on for extra stability. Press the seam toward the background fabric.

Repeat steps 8 and 9 for all of your blocks labeled 2.

Step 10: Grab four of your A1 half-square triangles (HSTs) and sew together to create a “V” block. I pressed the seams to the side, alternating the direction so I could nest the seams. Repeat with four B1 HSTs, and four C1 HSTs.

Step 11: Take one A2 block, one B2 block and two 5.5 inch background pieces and sew together to form a bow tie block, like the following diagram. I pressed seams to the side, alternating the direction so I could nest the seams. Repeat for one block with a B2 and C2 block and one block with a C2 and D2 block.

Step 12: Arrange your first row according to the diagram below and sew together. If you are pressing your seams in order to nest them together, you want to press the first seam (between your A1 “V” block and A2/B2 bow tie block) to the right.

Step 13: Repeat step 10 with four A1 HSTs and eight C1 HSTs. Layout your “V” blocks with your 10.5 inch background pieces according to the diagram below.

Step 14: Make one “V” block each using your A1, C1, and E1 HSTs. Make one A2/E2, one C2/E2, and one C2/F2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 15: Make two E1 “V” blocks and one F1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 16: Make one “V” block each using your G1, E1, and H1 half-square triangles. Make one G2/E2, one E2/H2, and one F2/H2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 17: Make two H1 “V” blocks and one G1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 18: Make one “V” block each using your G1, I1, and H1 half-square triangles. Make one G2/I2, one H2/I2, and one H2/J2 bow tie block. Arrange these blocks to form your third row according to the diagram below.

Step 19: Make two I1 “V” blocks and one J1 “V” block. Arrange them with your 10.5 inch background squares according to the following diagram.

Step 20: Pieces your rows together and press well. I like to sew two rows together at a time. So instead of sewing them on in order, adding each row individually, I sew rows 1 & 2 together, then rows 3 & 4, etc. Then I sew one of the double rows to another double row, and end by sewing the two halves of the quilt top together. I find that it is easier to sew the top together this way so you do not have all the weight of the quilt top when you sew each row on individually.

Step 21: Cut your background fabric into two 68 inch x width of fabric pieces. Remove the selvages and you should have two pieces that are 40-42 inches wide.

I also grabbed all of my scraps and pieced them together to make a 10 inch x 68 inch patchwork piece. Without this piece your back may not be large enough, since I like to have my quilt backs measure 8 inches larger than my tops on all sides. If you would prefer not to use scraps, you need to cut one more piece of background 10 inches by the width of fabric and substitute it for the scrap strip I show below.

Sew together your back according to the diagram below.

Step 22: Cut a piece of batting 64 inches x 84 inches and baste your quilt together. Quilt as desired. I straight line quilted my rings in alternating directions, like a volleyball.

Step 23: Bind and finish your quilt. You will need 290 inches of binding for the quilt. I cut 7 fabric strips that measured 2.5 inch by the width of fabric.

One generous size throw quilt, measuring 60 by 80 inches to snuggle under.

Thank you so much to Moda for letting me share my quilt! I would love to see any of your creations from this tutorial in the Moda Bake Shop Flickr group. Thank you for stopping by!

Kelly Smith
{Live. Love. Create.}

Applique Hearts Pillow

 

Hi All! This is Jera from www.QuiltingintheRain.com bringing you this simple Applique Hearts Pillow tutorial just in time for Valentine’s day. Depending on what fabrics you use, the pillow can be used year round. This pillow has an easy envelope enclosure, making this a quick and fun weekend project that you can complete in a few hours.

Also, I wanted to share that I have a quilting book coming out this year, so come check out my blog for details (or for some great tutorials!), or follow me (and my corgi, Paige) at Quilting in the Rain’s Facebook to see my latest quilts and projects. Thank you so much for stopping by! Let your creativity rain!

  • 1 yard Moda Solids Prairie Cloth in Buff (this material is home decor weight but has a linen/canvas feel to it) 
  • 1 Bella Solids charm pack in Porcela, plus one scrap for the colored heart
  • Clear glue that works on fabric
  • Coordinating thread
  • 20″ square pillow insert


1. From the prairie cloth, cut one 21″ square. For the back of the pillow, cut two 15″ x 21″ rectangles (these will be made into the envelope closure).

From the charm squares, cut hearts of varying shapes and sizes. I think the variety and imperfection of the heart shapes adds character to the pillow. To cut a big heart, simply fold a charm square in half and crease it with your finger so it stays folded. Then, use fabric scissors to cut the arch of ‘half of a heart’ along the folded edge. When you unfold it, you will have a heart shape.

To make smaller hearts,  repeat but cut two hearts from one charm square. 

I started by cutting approximately 8 big hearts, and then filled up the pillow with smaller and medium sized hearts. Also, from your scrap fabric cut one medium-size colored heart.
2. Next, arrange the hearts on the 21″ square.
3.Use clear glue that works on fabric to temporarily hold the hearts in place. Use very little glue as this is just an alternative to using pins and is meant to be temporary. For each heart I put the tiniest drop of glue and then spread it with my finger to make a very thin layer.
This is the glue I ended up using but i’m sure Elmers would work just as well. I just recommend getting a clear adhesive.
4. Sew the hearts in place using a regular presser foot. I simply guided the edge of my presser foot along the heart to sew a 1/4″ seam allowance, using a straight stitch setting.
If you’ve never done this before, to get around the curves of the heart you will need to stop and pivot the fabric quite often. To do this, simply stop sewing with the needle in down position, lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric underneath to follow the curve. You’ll get the hang of it. 🙂 
5. Along the length of a 15″ x 21″ rectangles,  turn the edge 1/4″ under, press, then turn under 1″, then press again. Stitch along the fold to keep in place as shown below. Repeat on the other rectangle as well.

6. With right sides facing together, take one rectangle and align it along the left side of the pillow cover. The finished seam you created from the previous step should be facing toward the right. Pin to keep in place, then sew a 1/2″ seam allowance along the perimeter as illustrated by the dashed line below. Start and end your stitch with a back-stitch.

Repeat with the other rectangle, but align it on the right side of the pillow.

Clip the corners to rid of bulk and then turn right side out through the envelope opening.

7. Lastly, rub your hands up and down the pillow to help ruffle-up the edges of the hearts. The semi-freyed and ruffled hearts adds texture to the pillow. The freying will not go beyond the stitch. 

And there you have it! A beautiful, applique heart pillow!


One fabulous 20″ x 20″ pillow

Thanks again for checking out my tutorial! Come visit me at www.QuiltingintheRain.com or follow me on Facebook at QuiltingintheRain. You can also find me on Instagram.

Let your creativity rain! 🙂

Jera Brandvig
{www.QuiltingintheRain.com}