Ruffle Banner and Pillow

Hello!  We’ve got an exciting and quick project to share with you today.  We are very happy to be posting our first tutorial here on Moda Bake Shop!!  Heather and I (Megan) are sisters and we love all things crafty.  We work together on our blogs Fresh Poppy Design and QuiltStory.  We would love for you to stop by! We have linky parties, ideas, tutorials and quilt patterns.  Hope you have fun with this cute banner and pillow 🙂

1 charm pack- Just Wing It! by MoMo
1/4 yard- It’s A Hoot by MoMo 32375 24
1/2 yard- Bella Solids Bleached White 9900 97
18″ pillow form
pinking sheers


Part 1: Creating the Ruffle Banner

Using pinking sheers and taking one charm square, find the center and cut from center to the opposite corner.  Do the same on the other side to create your pennant or triangle.  Repeat until you have 10.
Cut the 1/4 yard fabric in strips, two strips 2″ x WOF (width of fabric). This will be the band the pennants hang from.  Cut two pieces 1.5″ x WOF this will be the ruffle.
Sew the 2″ x WOF strips end to end, roughly 2″ x 86″.  Fold the piece in half, right sides together, sew, turn right side out and press.  Set aside for now.
Next sew the 1.5″ x WOF strips end to end, roughly 1.5″ x 86″.  Now sew the length of one side, very loosely in the widest stitch you can.  Pull the thread to create a ruffle.  Work the ruffle end to end to make it even and the right length to accommodate the pennants (roughly 45″).  (The edge of the ruffle is an unfinished edge).
Pinning along the back, sew the pennants to the ruffle.  The right side of the pennants to the wrong side of ruffle.
Again pinning carefully, sew a topstitch from end to end on the band, including attaching the ruffle and pennants.  Stand back and admire 🙂
Back to work.
Part 2: Creating the Brick Pillow
Choose 18 squares from the remaining charm pack.  Cut in half, 2.5″ to create the bricks.
Sewing end to end, create four rows with 4 bricks in them and four rows with 5 bricks in them.
Lay the rows out in the design you wish.  Sew each row together, keeping in mind to sew them in brick style as in photo above.
Trim off excess fabrics and square the piece to 17″.
Using the 1/2 yard of Bella White fabric, cut two pieces to 17″ x 13″.  Using the photo above as a guide, finish one end on each piece.  Line it up with the right side of fabric of the brick piece, the white fabric will overlap.  This is to create an envelope pillow, where you can insert the pillow and remove anytime for cleaning.  Sew around the outside of the square.
Insert your pillow!

A gorgeous and fast little duo that would make a great seasonal gift, or a fun new way to spruce up your own living spaces!
Thanks so much, hope you love the tutorial.  Please make sure to stop by and see us at QuiltStory!
Megan and Heather

Nature’s Gems Quilt





Are you excited??  I know I am!!  Melissa Corry here, and I am thrilled to bring you this tutorial.  I just  love everything MoMo designs and Just Wing It is no exception!!  I really wanted to highlight these wonderful prints on a large scale and creating these “gem” blocks was so much fun!  So here it is 🙂

And you know there is an adorable quilt kit just waiting for you 🙂 Click on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has created an exclusive Nature’s Gems Quilt Kit  with several backing options all at a discounted price!  Hurry, supplies are limited.


And of course, if you have any questions you can reach me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  And feel free to stop by my stomping grounds  www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com to see what I am up to. I love visitors. Happy Quilting to you all!

1 Just Wing It by MoMo Layer Cake
1 Just Wing It by MoMo Jelly Roll
2 Yards Bella Solids – Any Grey Tone
2 3/4 Yard of your choice for Backing

STEP 1 – CUTTING


Start by opening your Just Wing It layer cake.  You will be making 36 “Gem” blocks so you will have 6 extra “slices” of cake.  Go ahead and pull those out now.  I pulled out the solid repeats 🙂  Now the cutting in this tutorial is a little more involved than your basic squares but don’t let it scare you off.  It is a lot easier to do than to describe how to do 🙂

To cut, you will be using the center square in your mat (the one with the angle lines that go through it),  Line the top of your layer cake square along the 5″ line of that center square.  The center of the square will be along the 0 line of the center square.  The bottom of your square of fabric should be along the bottom of the mat (if it is the same as my mat).  The sides of your square will be lined up with the sides of the center square on the mat.  Now that you are all lined up, you are ready to cut.  You will be lining your ruler up along the 60 degree line (the dashed line the arrows are pointing to) making sure you intersect the 0 line at the side of the center of your block.

Just like this.  Once you have your ruler lined up go ahead and cut.

Now spin your ruler and line up along the 60 degree line on the other side of your center square.  Once you’re lined up perfect, cut along the edge of your ruler.

Now spin your square of fabric and line up the other end and cut the two corners just as described above.  Repeat the entire process with all 36 of your layer cake “slices”.  You will have some fun triangle scraps when you are done.  Note – Take care to watch for directional prints.  You want to make sure they are right side up and not sideward (I learned that the hard-way.  You will notice a few of my prints on the back are a little skewed 🙂

If you do not have a center square on your mat you can use the 60 degree line on your ruler to get the same effect.  See the directions for cutting the grey triangles for how to do this.  You will have to mark the back of your squares through the center to know where to line the edge up 😉

Now that your “Gem” Blocks are cut, you are ready to cut your grey yardage.  Start by laying out your grey yardage lining up the fold line along the 0″ horizontal line on your mat.  Trim a nice straight edge to start with.  Then measure over 5 1/2″.  Alight your ruler along the marks on the top and bottom of your mat and slice.  Continue this process until you have eight 5 1/2″ x WOF strips.  (I do 4 at a time).

Trim your selvage edge off the top of your strips.

Now you are ready to start cutting your triangles.  You will be using the 60 degree line on your ruler.  Keep your strip folded.  You will be cutting 2 layers at a time.  Lay your first strip down so the bottom is aligned along any horizontal line of your mat. Align the 60 degree line up along the bottom of your strip.  Line the edge of your ruler with the corner of your strip. Cut along the edge of the ruler.  That first little half triangle is scrap.

Swivel your ruler and now you will look at the other 60 degree line on your ruler.  Align it along the bottom of your block again.  Align the edge of your ruler with the top corner of your strip.  Cut.   (Sorry, this picture is a little crooked.)

Continue this process until you have made 5 sets of triangles. You won’t have enough room to cut another triangle.   You need 84 triangles for this project and you have 8 strips with 10 of each.  So on 4 strips you will need to open the strip, finger press your seam (I spray with a bit of water to help) , and cut one more triangle.  Continue this process with all 8 of your strips so that you have 84 triangles total!

And now for some final easy cutting.  Lay your remaining grey yardage out on your mat with the fold line along the 0 horizontal line of your mat.  Cut 26 1″ wide x WOF strips.  Set 18 aside, they don’t need any more cutting.  7 of them you will need to just trim off the fold line cutting them in half.  (I know there are only 6 in the picture, I miscounted when I took it, sorry)  And of your last strip, cut 2 pieces that are 12″ long each.  The remaining piece will be scrap and the two 12″ pieces can be set aside for a bit.  They will be used for the backing.  And that is it for cutting 🙂


STEP 2 – BUILDING “GEM” BLOCK


Onto some sewing 🙂  We’ll start by building the “Gem” blocks.  We will be adding a grey triangle to the top left of each “gem” and to the bottom right of each “gem”.  And these are equilateral triangles so don’t worry about which side to line up, they are all the same.

Lay your triangles onto your “gem” piece with right sides together.  Align your triangle along the edge and center it so that you have the same amount of hang over on each side.  It should be about 1/4″ overhang.  Pin.  Repeat the process for the other triangle.  Now repeat both sides on all 36 of your “gem” blocks.  You will have some left over grey triangles.

Now to the sewing.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of the upper left hand side of each block.  When you start sewing, your needle should fit right in the groove of your criss cross pieces of fabric.  Remember to remove pins as you go.  Once you are finished with one block, don’t clip your threads.  Just feed the next block through. This is called Chain Stitching and it saves a lot of time.  Continue chain stitching all your blocks.

Now go ahead and clip the threads between your blocks.  Spin your blocks and sew your 1/4″ seam along the bottom right pinned seam of each block.  Continue chain stitching all 36 sets.

Once again, clip your threads between your sewn pieces.  Press your seams out on both sides of all 36 blocks.  You will have some dog ears to clip once you have pressed 🙂



STEP 3 – PIECING “GEM” ROWS


Now the fun part: the layout!!  Spend a little time and play with your blocks until you have a layout you like.  The colors are super fun to play with.  You want to make sure you have 6 rows of 6.  The last row will be used for the back.  (So if you made a slip with cutting something sidewards that might be the row where you want that block.)

Once you have a layout you like, you are ready to start sewing the rows together.  Once again, this is going to sound a lot harder than it is.  It is just hard to describe.  Take the first block in your row and lay  it over onto the second block of the row with right sides together.  The two blocks will make an sort of L shape.  The important part here is to make sure we get those triangle points nice and perfect.  The way to do this is to make sure your seams overlap.  You are going to want to nest your seams but that is wrong.  Keep sliding them together until you have a little “seam sandwich”.

Go ahead and pin your center seam (your seam sandwich) and then pin the two edges of your block.  The edges should line up perfectly with the edges of the block below.  But if they don’t, that’s fine. It is more important to do the center right, as you will be trimming the edges anyways 🙂

Pin all of your rows and blocks.  In each row you will pin Block 1 and 2 together.  Block 3 and 4 together.  And Block 5 and 6 together.  Now back to the sewing machine.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of each set.  Once again, chain stitch all of your sets.  When done, clip the threads between the blocks and press.  You will start to notice that your tops will not be lined up.  Like I said, no worries, we will be trimming them.  We just want to make sure the centers come out nice and crisp.

Lay your sets of 2 back out again.  It should look like this.  See how pinning those seam sandwiches gives you nice crisp points between the center of your grey triangles.

Now you are going to repeat the process just with sets of 2 instead of 1.  Lay your now sewn together blocks 5 and 6, onto your now sewn together blocks 3 and 4.  Align your edges making your seam sandwich, pin along the center and edges, sew your 1/4″ seam along all 6 sets, clip your threads and press.

Now repeat once again, adding the final blocks 1 and 2 to the remainder of your row.  Use the same steps as above.

Now you have 6 rows that look like this.  Aren’t they just fun!!!  Now you need to grab those leftover grey triangles.  You’ll add one to the beginning and end of each row to fill in the “holes”.

This time you will pin the ends a little different.  Align the edge of the triangle along the edge of the block.  This will make the other end overlap the already sewn on grey triangle.  Pin along the edge.  Repeat this process for all 12 of your remaining triangles.

Now to sewing.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of your block.  You will start sewing only on one piece of fabric and sew onto your grey triangle.  Continue to the edge of the grey triangle.  When you reach the edge, you won’t be at the end of the block.  Just stop there.  You can backstitch a stitch if you choose to lock it in place.  Clip your threads.   Repeat with all 12 pinned pieces.  Press your pieces.

Now your sides look like this and you are ready to trim them square.  You need to measure over a 1/4″ from the point of your MoMo print.  Align the top and bottom along the lines of your ruler to make sure you are lined up straight.  (I found the Gem blocks to be a straighter measurement than the grey triangles.)  Once you are lined up, cut along the side of your ruler edge.  Repeat on both sides of all 6 rows.

Last, we are going to even up the tops and bottoms.  When your row is finished, it should measure 9 1/2″ wide.  Now I wish I had a 9 1/2″ wide ruler and this would be easier, but alas, I don’t 🙂  So here’s what you do.  Fold your row in half making sure to alight your corners.  Align your edges up along the vertical striaght lines on your mat and try to put your tops about a 1/4″ over a horizontal line.  (The grey tops will be right about on that horizontal line.)  Now go ahead and align your ruler along the horizontal line your choose and trim your top nice and neat.  Measure down 9 1/2″ inches on your mat and align your ruler along that mark on your mat and trim.

You should now have 6 rows with beautiful straightness and wonderfully crisp centers 🙂



STEP 4 – ADDING SOME SASHING


On to the sashings.  We’ll start with the grey sashing.  Grab your 14 half strips (the ones that measure about 22″ x 1:) and 14 of your 1″ X WOF strips.  You are going to sew a half strip to a full strip to make them a nice long strip.  Put a set right sides together (doesn’t really matter in this case) and stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge making a 66″ long strip.  Continue chain stitching all 14 sets.  Now grab 4 of the full WOF strips.  You will be sewing these in the same fashion making 2 strips that are 88″ long.  Clip your threads and press.  Set your two 88″ long sashings and 2 of the 64″ long sashings aside for borders to be added on at the end.

Now we will add these sashing we just made onto the tops and bottoms of each row.  Easy enough!!  Just lay your sashing along the top of the row with right sides together (make sure your sashing is right sides together, in other words you should be able to see the raw seam on top).

You won’t need to pin as there are no points to match.  Just sew a 1/4″ seam along the entire edge aligning as you go.  Trim the excess at the end.  Repeat for the top and the bottom of each row.  Press your seams.

Your rows should now look like this.  Those little seams don’t like to lay flat but don’t worry too much about it, they will when you sew your rows together 🙂  You can go ahead and set that bottom row that will be used for the back aside now, we won’t use it for a while 🙂

Now you are ready to move onto your next set of sashing.  It is time to open up that jelly roll!!!  Grab 2 prints from your jelly roll, don’t worry too much about it, just mix it up.  Align the two blocks along the horizontal lines of your mat hanging the selvage edge over the 0 vertical line.  Trim the selvage edge along the 0 vertical line.  Now you are going to cut the strips so that when you add the 2 measurements together you get 60 (don’t worry about seam allowance).  So I cut mine choosing from the following measurements.  (30 & 30) (31 & 29) (32 & 28) (33 & 27) (34 & 26) (35 & 25) and (36 & 24).  My mat doesn’t go any farther than that so I called it good there 🙂  Repeat this process until you have a total of 12 sets that add up to 60.  (You will be using 24 jelly roll strips.) Go ahead and set the remaining pieces of your jelly roll strips aside.  They will be used for a scrappy binding.
Now you are going to repeat the process again with a slight change.  You need to make 4 more sets of strips but this time they need to measure 80″ when you add them all together.  I used three strips for these so I didn’t have 2 huge long strips.  Just use the measurements above and then add a 20″ strip.  Or do whatever math you like, as long as three pieces add up to 80 🙂  Add your remaining pieces of jelly roll strips to your scrappy binding pile  (You will have 4 whole jelly roll strips leftover that you can add to your scrap pile… you won’t need them for the binding 🙂

Now you are going to sew your sets together.  Grab your first set of two (that equal 60) and place them right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Continue this process with all of your sets.  Make sure to add the 3 pieces together on your 4 sets that are 80″ long.  When your sewing is done, clip your threads, and press your seams.

Now you are going to sew the now 60ish or 80ish strips into sets of 2.  So place one 60ish row onto a second 60ish row with right sides together.  Repeat for all of the sets, including the 4 sets of 80ish.

Once again, no need to pin, just align as you go sewing a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  If the edges don’t line up perfectly don’t worry, you have some wiggle room for that 🙂  When done, you will have a total of 6 rows that are 60ish” long and 2 rows that are 80ish” long.  The 80ish” strips you can set aside with your backing pieces.





STEP 5 – FINISHING THE TOP


Lay your top out now with the 60ish” jelly roll strip rolls in between your “Gem” block rows.  Now it is as simple as sewing your rows together, starting from the top and working down.

Lay your Jelly Roll Row onto your “Gem” row with right sides together.  Start sewing a 1/4″ seam along the edge (aligning as you go). Trim the excess at the end of the row.  Repeat this process for all of the rows.  Add the top and bottom jelly roll strip to the last row. Now just sew the rows together in the same fashion.

Your top now looks like this and you are ready to add the final borders.  Grab those sashings that you set aside way back when 🙂  Add the 64″ long strips to the top and bottom first.  Use the same process you did to attach the other grey sashings.  Trim the excess and press.  Now just repeat on the sides using your 88″ long sashings.  Trim the excess and press.



And your top is complete!! Aren’t you just so excited!!!





STEP 5 – PIECING THE BACK


Grab that pile of backing pieces you have been setting aside.  Start with your “gem” row and your 2 12″ grey sashing.  Add the grey sashing along each side of your row.  Use the same process as you did to add the grey sashing on the front.  Trim the excess and press.  See that lovely sideways tree, oops.  I am glad you can all learn from my mistakes 🙂

Now grab those 2 80″ ish strips.  You are going to cut off a 20″ piece from each strip.

Now grab the remaining 60″ left on each set and add them to the top and bottom of your “gem” row.  Ya, you are a master at doing this now 🙂

Now you are going to add those two 20″ pieces to the sides of the row.  This won’t show up on the back hardly at all.  This is just so that you have the wiggle room you need for quilting.  Most LAQs prefer to have a few inches of overhang on the side to work with :).  So after you attach the sides, trim and press.

Grab your yardage.  Align the folded end of your yardage along the 0 horizontal line of your cutting mat.  Trim a nice straight edge.  Measure over 32″ and align your ruler along the top and bottom of your mat and cut.  Repeat this process 2 more times so that you have three 32″ pieces.

Take one of your 32″ pieces and open it up.  Cut along the folded line to make 2 pieces that each measure 32″ x 22″.

Lay your back out as follows.

Lay the 22″ wide pieces onto the full pieces with right sides together.  Stitch together using a 1/2″ seam.  This way you hide your seam allowance 🙂  Press.

Now go ahead and sew the three “rows” together.  Add the “gem” row to the top first and then the bottom to the now pieced together “gem” row and top.  Press.  And your back is done!!!



STEP 6 – FINISHING UP


So you are ready to put it together now.   First – make your quilt sandwich. It really helps to tape your backing down onto a wood floor.  Baste the sandwich (the more pins the better).

Now onto quilting.  I quilted this on my my little Bernina so it can be done on a regular sewing machine.  I choose to do some custom quilting with some swirls, some small stippling, and some some loopies.   If you are new to quilting, there are tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting, just Google it and practice or you can always just send it out to be quilted.  There are some amazing long arm quilters out there 🙂  

Last but not least, binding.  Grab your that pile of scrappy binding pieces you set aside and sew them into a nice long binding strip.  If you are not sure on how to make a binding or attach it there is a great tutorial  here 

And you are done!!  Way to go!  Don’t you just love it!!!!

I would love it if you would email me (happyquiltingmelissa at gmail dot com) a picture of your quilt or add it to my Flickr Tutorial Page.  I just can’t wait to do a parade of quilts on my blog 🙂  




One beautiful, fun, quilt that measures 54 x 72 perfect to fit a twin size bed or to have around just waiting to be snuggled with 🙂

Melissa Corry

Criss Cross Quilt

Hi, its Karen from Lisnaweary Quilts, I’m back with a recipe for a cute cot quilt!I’ve used two charm packs of Just Wing it! and some Bella Solid fabric to whip up this colourful “Criss Cross Quilt.”

2 Just Wing it! Charm Packs

1yd White Bella Solid

1/2yd fabric for border 32446-14

1yd fabric for binding and backing 32442-21

2 yds fabric for backing 32440-27

1. From a charm pack, pick out 20 squares.

2.Pick out another 40 squares and cut in half to make 80 2 1/2″ x 5″ pieces.

3.Place 4 2 1/2″ x 5″ pieces around each of the 20 squares. (I could say to do this randomly, but I did spend some time arranging the fabrics and colours!)

4. Sew a 2 1/2″ x 5″ piece to two opposite sides of a square.


It should look like this:

Leave remaining 40 2 1/2″ x 5″ pieces to one side.

5. Take 18 squares from charm pack and trim 1/2″ off two sides to give a square 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″.

6. Cut into 1 1/2″x 4 1/2″ strips.

Then cut 6 1 1/2″ x WOF strips from background fabric.

7. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ strips to the strips of background fabric.


8. Cut the strips into 1 1/2″ pieces and press open, press seam towards darker fabric.

9. Sew two pieces together to give a square with four small squares and a checked effect. Make 80.

10. Sew a square to each side of remaining 40 2 1/2″x 5″ pieces from step 4.

11.Sew these to original pieced rectangles. Make sure to match seams.

12. The squares should measure 9″ x 9″.

13. From background fabric cut 49 1 1/2″ x 9″ strips.

14. Sew 9″ squares together in rows of four, using background fabric as sashing.

15. From remaining squares in charm pack, cut 30 1 1/2″ squares.

16. Sew 1 1/2″ square to end of 1 1/2″ x 9″ strip, add another square. Continue until there are four background strips and six coloured squares in the row.Make six strips.

17. Join strips of pieced squares together using this sashing. Make sure to match seams.

Should look like this:

18. Cut 5 2 1/2″xWOF for border. Sew on border. Press.

Layer backing, wadding and quilt top.

Quilt as desired then sew on binding.

Don’t forget the quilt label!
A super bright and cosy cot quilt!

Finished size approx. 43″ x 52″

Sorry Roxy, its not for you!

Hope you enjoyed this tutorial!

If you make this quilt, please upload a photo of it to my flickr group, I’d love to see your quilt.

Check out my blog for more photos and chat about sewing!

Karen Maxwell
{Lisnaweary Quilts}

French General Jelly Roll Quilt

Jelly Roll Quilt

1 Jelly Roll – I Maison de Garance from the gorgeous French General range

1 yard Maison de Garance Clochette Oyster

4 yards Maison deGarance Florence Turkey Red (this includes the backing)

Hi, my name is Rose from {ludlowquiltandsew.co.uk} and I am thrilled to be writing for the Moda Bake Shop!  I love the Moda jelly rolls because the edges of the strips are cut with whatever the mechanical equivalent of pinking shears is, so there’s no fraying and the strips are really easy to work with. For this jelly roll quilt, I have chosen the Path and Stiles quilt block, also known as Far West.  It is a variation on the Shoofly quilt block and I have made it in the lovely Maison de Garance range from Moda French General.

Step One – Using the jelly roll

Sort the strips from the jelly roll into light and dark strips.  Sew together light, dark and light in one strip, and dark, light dark in another strip.  You will need 12 light, dark light strips and 2 dark, light, dark strips.

Press all the strips with the seam allowance toward the dark strips.  Cut the dark, light, dark strips at 2.5″ intervals.
Cut the light, dark, light strips into both 6.5″ and 2.5″ pieces.  You will need 48 of the 6.5″ pieces and 12 of the 2.5″ pieces.  Sett the remaining jelly roll strips aside to be used in the quilt border.
The 6.5″ squares will be one part of the Path and Stile quilt block.  Sew one of the dark, light, dark 2.5″ strips either side of a light, dark, light 2.5″ strip to make a nine patch quilt square as shown.  You will need 12 of the nine patch squares (on the left) and 48 of the right hand squares.
Step Two – Making the corners of the quilt block
From the 1 yard lengths of red and white fabrics, cut four strips 6 7/8″ wide across the width of the fabric.  Cut these across the width to make 6 7/8″ squares.  You will need 24 of these squares in both red and white.
Place a red and a white 6 7/8″ square with right sides together.  Mark a line along the diagonal and sew a seam 1/4″ on both sides of the line.
Cut along the marked line.  This will give you two squares (each made up of a red and a white half square triangle).
Press the squares and trim the corners of the triangles.  Lay the quilt block pieces out as shown:  nine patch square in the center, strip squares against each side of the nine patch square and half square triangle squares in each corner.
Sew the squares together across each row and then sew the rows together to make an 18″ quilt block.  Repeat to make 12 quilt blocks altogether.
Sew these jelly roll quilt blocks together in rows of three and then sew the four rows together for the quilt top.
Step Three – Making the Quilt Binding
I try to avoid having fabric leftover to add to my stash (which is far too large as it is!) so I always try to use up as much as possible in the quilt border.  For this jelly roll quilt, I gathered together all the remaining jelly roll strips, sewed them together in twos or threes and cut them into 2.5″ strips.
Sew these together into two lengths of 27 squares and two lengths of 38 squares.  Sew the two 27 square strips along the short edges of the quilt and then the two 38 square strips along the long edges of the quilt.
Step Four – Finishing the Quilt
The quilt top is now complete and ready to be layered, quilted and bound.  I used seven 2.5″ strips from the remaining red and white fabric for the quilt binding.  I alternated them so that the binding was part red and part white.  I had ended up with a quilt that I was really pleased with and I had only added half a dozen 2.5″ squares to my fabric stash.  I hope that you like the quilt as much as I do.
The finished size of the quilt top is 54.5″ by 72.5″, giving a 54″ by 72″ quilt which would be ideal for a single bed with some overhang or to sit on a double bed without much overhang – or just to curl up in and enjoy!
Rose Smith

Shabby Spring Quilt


Hey Moda Bake Shop readers! It’s Tam from Sew Dang Cute Crafts back again to share with you this fun, “Shabby Spring” quilt. Rag quilts are so great because you can do so many things with them and finish them without actually “quilting”.

* 1 Layer Cake (I used Chez Moi’s beautiful Hunky Dory line)

* 1 Jelly Roll * 1/4 yard coordinating fabric (my blue)

* 1/2 yard coordinating fabric (my cream)

* Warm and natural batting

* Coordinating thread(s)

* Ruffle foot (not necessary, but definitely makes things easier)

Any desired appliques.

1. The first thing we need to do is cut our fabric. To make things a little easier to understand, I’ve included a diagram of our pattern.

– Select 12 layer cakes and cut into 1/4’s to make (48) 5″x5″ squares – (B) in the pattern.

– Select 10 layer cakes for your big squares (A) and several others for appliques if doing any.

– Cut jelly roll strips into (16) 10″ pieces – (E) in the pattern, except the center square. (I used 2 jelly roll and 2 layer cakes: pink and blue).

– Cut (7) 2 1/2″ strips from the 1/2 yard coordinating fabric (my cream). From those strips, cut (16) 13″ pieces and (4) 10″ pieces – (D) in the pattern, except the center square, and (E) of the center square.

– Cut (2) 2 1/2″ strips from the 1/4 yard coordinating fabric (my blue). From those strips, cut (2) 13″ pieces – (D) of the center square.

– Select 8 different jelly roll strips and cut (64) 5″ pieces from those – (C) in the pattern.

Now that you are done cutting, you should have something similar to this. Remember you are making both the top and back of the quilt, so you’ll need to arrange your pattern with this in mind. Here’s how mine looks (top shown).

2. Let’s start with (B). Cut (24) 3 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ squares of warm and natural batting. Layer one (B) wrong side down, then one piece of warm and natural, followed by one (B) right side up. Stitch from corner to corner as seen in the photo below to form an “X” and create your fabric sandwich. You don’t need to worry about backstitching when doing these. Repeat to form 24 (B) squares. I have found the fastest way to do this is by doing a chainstitch. Line all your squares up diagonally and stitch corner to corner in one direction. Then simply clip between each sandwich and line them all up again to stitch from the other corner to corner. 3. Let’s move on to (A). Cut (5) 8 3/4″ x 8 3/4″ squares of warm and natural batting. Layer the fabric and batting as you did in step 2. If you are using appliques, apply those to your top square piece. I used my Silhouette and their fabric interfacing, which was fabulous. Stitch down your appliques through the entire sandwich, or stitch an “X” as you did in step 2 if you aren’t using appliques. I used invisible thread to make it easier for me, rather than changing my thread multiple times. And this is how it looks from the back side. Repeat to form the (5) A pieces. 4. Cut (32) 3 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips of warm and natural batting for your (C) pieces. Sandwich in the same manner. Instead of forming an “X”, I chose to simply stitch one line down the middle of the strip to create my sandwich. Repeat to make 32 (C) strips. Again, don’t backstitch and I highly recommend doing a chainstitch to make things faster. 5. Cut (10) 11 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips of warm and natural batting for your (D) pieces. Sandwich and stitch together as you did the strips in step 4, with a single stitchline down the center. Repeat to create your 10 (D) strips.

6. Cut (10) 8 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ strips of warm and natural batting for your (E) pieces. Sandwich and stitch together, again just like in step 4, with a single stitch line down the center. Repeat to create your 10 (E) strips.

7. Now we get to sew all our sandwiches together. This is where you want to grab your walking foot if you have one.

The walking foot makes it so the fabric is fed through evenly and you avoid bunching – great for when you are working with numerous layers of fabric! Grab three of your (B) squares. *Note: You can do a larger or smaller seam, depending how much fringe you want. I chose to do a 1/2″ seam for this rag quilt. Using 1/2″ seams, sew the back sides of the quilt together, so the seam is sticking out on the top side of the quilt. Using the same method of sewing back sides together, sew another three (B) squares together and eight (C) strips to create three rows. Then sew those three rows together to form one big block. Repeat with the other 3 blocks that are this style. For the other five blocks, we are going to sew two (E) strips to one (A) square first, then two (D) strips to create one big block. Repeat for the other four of this style. Sew three of the big blocks together to form a row. Repeat to create three big rows. Then sew those three big rows together and stitch around the entire perimeter of the quilt. You are done sewing! 8. Grab a good pair of scissors and a great movie and begin clipping all of those seams that are sticking up. Just keep clipping away until every seam has been clipped. 9. Toss the blanket in the washer, then dryer and be sure to clean out your filters afterwards. You are now done and have a beautiful rag quilt!!! Here’s how it looks from the back.

One rag quilt 36″ x 36″.

I hope you will all come visit me over at Sew Dang Cute Crafts! Thanks for letting me be here today!!

Tamarynn Bennett
{Sew Dang Cute Crafts}

Love Beads Quilt

LOVE BEADS QUILT By Carla Timberlake 

Have you noticed all the groovy 1970’s inspired fashions that are hitting the stores? Bright and wild colors dominated the scene and what hippie didn’t own love beads during the ’70’s! The “Oh, My!” line of fabrics by Sanae reminds me so much of the psychedelic fabrics of that day!  This lap-size quilt celebrates the era in a fun and creative way! I’m Carla Timberlake from Lollyquiltz and this is my first Bake Shop pattern. I hope that you enjoy it!

2 Charm Packs of  Oh, My! by Sanae
2 1/2 yards of background fabric: Moda Bella buttercup 9900-28
3 1/3 yards border and backing fabric: Oh, My! 32450-18
1/2 yard binding fabric: Oh, My! 32453-14

Makes one quilt: Approx. 54.5 in. x 63. 5 in.

CUTTING:
Begin by cutting each of the 84 charm squares into two pieces with your rotary cutter and ruler.

Cut off a 1.5 in. X 5 in. piece from one side of each square. This will leave a section 3.5 in. x 5 in.

From the background fabric,
CUT: 23 strips WOF(Width of Fabric) 1.5 inches wide
From remaining background fabric,
CUT: 3 strips LOF (Length of Fabric) 1.5 in. X 59 in.
         7 strips LOF 3 in. X 59 in.                                                         
SUBCUT: Using 12 WOF strips 1.5 in. wide from above , subcut into 320 squares 1.5 in. X 1.5 in.
       
The Love Bead Quilt is made with two simple blocks, the bead block and the chain block.
MAKING THE BEADS:
Place a 1.5 in. background square in each corner of the 3.5 in. x 5 in. Oh, My! rectangle. Sew across the background squares on the diagonal. 
*Hint: Crease the square on the diagonal or draw a line for better accuracy when stitching, if desired.
Using chain sewing will make this step go faster! You will end up with at big stack that looks like this!
Next, using scissors or your rotary cutter, trim off the corners, leaving a 1/4 inch seam.
*Hint: If your stitching line is not quite on the diagonal line, you can trim out just the background corner from the middle, leaving the print corner to keep the block square. Your seam will be a bit more bulky if you choose this.
Press the background corners up toward the outside on each bead block.
MAKING THE CHAINS:
Choose 42 of the 1.5 in. x 5 in. strips that you cut from the charm squares. Lay them, right sides together (RST) along 6 of the 1.5 in. WOF background strips. You can get 8 charm strips on each background strip. Sew the charm strips along the background strips with a 1/4 in. seam.
*Hint: Test to be sure that you are making an accurate 1/4 in. seam before beginning.
Press the seams toward the charm strips.
Use your rotary cutter and ruler to cut across the background strip even with the charm strips to 5 inches.
Now, repeat the steps above to attach the charm strips along the remaining 1.5 inch WOF background strips.
Again, cut apart the 5 inch sections from the long background strips. They should measure 3.5 in. across.
Cut 34 chain pieces in half to make (68) 3.5 x 2.5 sections. Cut the remaining 8 chain sections to 3.75 in. in length. Lay aside.
CREATING THE BEAD/CHAIN BLOCKS:
Begin by choosing 12 beads and lay them aside. (You will use these later to complete the long rows.) Now, using the 68 short chain sections that you cut in the step above, pair up a chain section with a bead and sew them together using a 1/4 in. seam. Mix and match the prints for a fun look. Press seams open. Your bead/chain blocks should look like this:

Now for the really fun part! This type of quilt is called a strip quilt because the blocks are set together, end to end, creating strips. Then background strips, or sashings, are sewn in-between the block strips. Begin laying out the bead/chain blocks to create 9 long rows.

1. Use 8 blocks to create 5 rows, beginning with a bead at the top. At the end of these rows, add a single bead from one of the ones you laid aside above. Now you will have 5 chains of 9 beads, beginning and ending with a bead. Sew together and press the seams open.

2. Create 4 rows using 7 blocks, beginning with a bead at the top. At the end of these rows, add a single bead from one of the ones you laid aside above. Now, add a 3.75 in. chain piece to the beginning and the end of each of these 4 rows. You will now have 8 beads in these 4 rows, beginning and ending with a long chain piece. Sew together and press seams open.

*Hint: You will have 3 beads left over. You could piece them into the backing, just for fun!

3. Using a design wall (or even the floor) is a great way to move around the beads to get a pleasing combination. The 10 LOF background strips that you cut at the beginning of this pattern will be used to separate the long bead chains in the quilt top. Measure several long bead strips and cut the sashing strips  to that measurement. 
*Hint: You can use an average if the lengths vary slightly.

4. You can lay out the strips in any way that you like, but use a 3 in. background strip on the outside edges and alternate the 9 bead rows with the 8 bead rows. Use the cover picture, or the ones below, as a layout guide. Some of the bead stings will be closer together, depending on where you use the 1.5 in. sashing or the 3 in. sashing.

5. Once you have the rows laid out how you like them, sew them together and press seams toward the sashing pieces.

*Hint: The back of a flannel tablecloth makes a great, portable design wall. You can fold it up with the blocks laying on it and they will stay put.

BORDERS:
Fold the background/border fabric in half crosswise and cut. Each section will then be approx. 60 in. long. Using one section, cut (4) LOF 4.5 in. strips. Use these to make the outside borders, measuring across the middle and then cutting the borders to fit that measurement.  Add the side borders first and then the top and bottom. 
BACKING AND BINDING:
Piece together the remaining backing fabric to create a backing 3 in. larger than the quilt top all the way around. Layer with batting and quilt as desired. Use the binding fabric to make a French binding by cutting strips 2.25 in. wide. Fold and press in half after sewing them together end to end on the bias. Bind the quilt.

One funky LOVE BEAD QUILT to remind you of the 1970’s! 
54. 5 inches X 63. 5 inches
ENJOY!

Carla Timberlake
{Lollyquiltz}

Strawberries and Sunshine Reversible Rug/Bath Mat

strawberries and sunshine reversible rug bath mat 


Hello you all! I’m Penny of Sew Take a Hike and I am so very excited to introduce you to my first Moda Bake Shop project, the Strawberries and Sunshine reversible rug/bath mat. This project was born out of a need I had to combine the lovely line of Strawberry Fields with a fun polka dot terry cloth towel.

100_0377 rug front

 

½ yard Bella Solids yellow (9900-23), cut into (3) 6″ x WOF strips
1 jelly roll Strawberry Fields (you will have leftovers)
cotton terrycloth towel measuring 24″ x 32″ (I cut up a premade polka dot towel)
cotton batting measuring 24″ x 32″
spray starch
fabric glue
corner template
walking foot


All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise specified. WOF = width of fabric.
1. Cut 25 of the jelly roll strips in half and set one of the 1/2 strip sets aside for use.
2. Sew the 1/2 strips together, longways, in sets of 5.

100_0313

3. Cut each of the panels from step 2 into (8) 2½” wide strips.

100_0404

4. Randomly sew three of the strips from step 3 into one strip. Repeat this process so you end up with 12 strips that consist of 15 squares. There will be 4 strips from step 3 leftover.
5. Arrange the 12 strips as you like and sew them together, making sure to pin at the seams so the squares line up.

100_0320

6. Print and cut out the template included in the Printer Friendly Version (at bottom of post):
7. Lay the template on one corner of your patchwork rug top and use a rotary cutter to round the corner. Repeat with remaining 3 corners.
8. Using the patchwork oval as a template, lay the patchwork on top of the batting and use your rotary cutter to trim the batting to the same shape as the patchwork oval. Repeat this step with the terry cloth backing.
9. Layer your batting and patchwork together, pin, and quilt as you desire. In this next section, you will make your continuous prairie points.
10. Using one of the 6” x WOF prairie point fabric strips, fold it in half longways and press.
11. Using a ruler and rotary cutter, cut a straight line from the edge of the fabric just to the center fold line every 1.5”, alternating cuts from the top edge of the fabric to the lower edge.

100_0324

I used a 2″ wide ruler to do this, lining the previous cut edge up with the 1.5” mark on the clear ruler to make even cuts.
12. Cut off the first 1.5” flap of fabric at the fold line.

100_0327

13. Cut off the last two flaps of fabric at the opposite end.

100_0328

14. Fold each square in half to form triangles, making sure to fold each one in the same direction and press as you go.

100_0330

15. Place a dot of fabric glue on the outside tip of each triangle and fold the triangles in half, bringing the raw edges even with the center of the fabric strip. Press as you go.

100_0334 100_0336
16. Fold the top triangles over on top of the lower triangles, pressing and using spray starch as you go.
100_0338 100_0340
17. Baste stitch ⅛” from the straight edge.
100_0342
18. Repeat the steps to make prairie points with remaining two 6″ x WOF strips.
19. Using two full prairie point strips and only 8 points from the third prairie point strip, pin prairie points around the right side of the perimeter of the rug, making sure to line up the prairie points correctly when you end with one prairie point strip and start with another.
100_0343 100_0344
20. Sew the prairie points to the quilted patchwork rug top, sewing very close to the stitching on the prairie point edge.
100_0344

21. Sandwich the patchwork rug top right side up and lay the terry cloth right side down and pin.
22. Use a ⅜” seam and your walking foot to sew together, making sure to leave a 4″ hole for turning.
23. Turn the rug and press.
24. Use your walking foot to topstitch 1/8″ around the outside of the main part of the rug, making sure you sew the turning hole closed.
25. Stitch in the ditch on the patchwork side of the rug in 6 lengthways seams to attach the terrycloth to the patchwork front.


One 32″ x  25¼” reversible rug/bath mat

100_0364100_0366

Penny Layman
{Sew Take a Hike}