Jelly Towels

Dish towels and tea towels were all the rage at Quilt Market this year in Pittsburgh. You too can have a new set of dish towels. I am always looking for a quick gift idea and a way to use up those left over Jelly roll strips.

2- 24-27″ Flour sack dish towels, hemmed
2- strips from a Jelly Roll: Simple Abundance by Bonnie and Camille
3 +1/8th yards rick-rack

This is how darling they are when they are finished!

First, press your towels, then cut the Jelly roll strips the width of the towel PLUS 1″
Turn both ends of the Jelly roll strip under 1/2″

Lay the Jelly roll strip 3″ from the bottom of the towel and pin into place.

Lay the rick-rack on the top of the Jelly roll strip along the long edges. Leave a small amount of rick-rack for tucking under at each end.

Sew down the long edges on the rick-rack.

Sew the sides of the Jelly roll strip as you sew around the towel.

Fold the towel into thirds, leaving 3-4″ at the top.

Fold the towel into thirds the opposite way so it is a nice square.

Now, what to do with that little left over piece of Jelly roll that you cut off? If you have a rotary cutter with a pinking blade, cut the left over strip in half length wise.

Like this.

Tie one around a jar or Jelly…or jam.

Or, sew the two together like this to make one long strip.

Fold the towels again in half and tie the strip around them to make a bow.

Keep them for yourself, or give away to your favorite friend or neighbor! I thought seven different colors would be wonderful, one for each day of the week! You could even make an apron from the same line of fabric…then the lady of the kitchen would be so ” in Vogue!”

2 very pretty dish towels.

Turning Corners Table Runner

I am so excited to be one of the Moda Bake Shop’s latest designers! I’m John and I blog at This is my first project for the Bake Shop, but hopefully not my last!
This tutorial is for a very versatile table runner pattern. I don’t know about you, but I like my table runners to be l-o-n-g. (I just think they’re more dramatic that way.) This pattern will yield a table runner that’s approximately 6 feet long! The great thing about this pattern, however, is that you can split the blocks into two shorter table runners, or a 36″ square table topper. Any format you choose is sure to be a stunner!
OK, so let’s get started …

  • 1 Moda Honey Bun — I used Deb Strain’s “Fresh” (note: you will need 36 honey bun strips, so be sure your honey bun has at least that many)
  • 1.25 yards of a backing fabric
  • 0.5 yards of a binding fabric
Step 1:
Separate your honey bun strips into four sets of 9 strips apiece. Because they followed the colors of the rainbow, the fabrics I selected separated nicely into red/orange/yellow strips, and blue/green strips. You might also group the strips by lights and darks, by colorways, or by tone. They key is to look for similar tones within each strip set, but contrast between them.
Step 2:
Sew your strip sets together. Press seams (I press mine to one side). You should have four strip sets of 9 strips apiece, and the strip set should measure approximately 9.5″ wide.

Step 3:
From each strip set, cut four blocks measuring 9.5″. Square up your blocks to 9.5″ square each. You should have 16 total blocks. Separate them out into two piles, each containing 8 blocks. Here is where you will separate the blocks by contrasting colors, tones, colorways, etc.

Step 4:
Line up all of the blocks so that the strips are running horizontally, from right to left. From the first pile of 8 blocks, cut each along the 45 degree diagonal line from the block’s bottom left corner to the top right corner.

From the second pile of 8 blocks, and this is important, cut each on the diagonal from the top left to the bottom right of the block. Don’t cut all 16 blocks the same way — 8 have to be cut on one diagonal, and the other 8 have to be cut the opposite way.

See the picture for a visual explanation:

When you swap half of one block with half of the other, the strips from each should line up to form a 90 degree angle, like so:

And now you know why I named this the “Turning Corners” table runner!

Step 5:
Sew the blocks back together. Each new block should contain half from your first pile, and half from your second pile. Be sure to line up seams so that the strips match up when they “turn the corner” — pin them if that is your preferred method.

Square up your blocks again. They should square up to about 9″. If yours are a little smaller or a little larger, that’s OK … as long as you square them all up to be the same size.

Step 6:
Now for the fun part. Audition different layouts for your blocks. The contrast you created will let you create stripes …

… or diamonds …

… or pinwheels. I decided on pinwheels.

Step 7:
Sew all of your blocks together. For the full table runner, lay them out 2 blocks wide by 8 blocks long. To make two shorter table runners, lay each out in a 2 x 4 block format. For a square table topper, lay the blocks out in a 4 x 4 grid.

Step 8:
Baste, quilt, and bind as desired. I free-motion quilted mine with a meandering stipple pattern.

A beautiful new addition to your decor, or a perfect hostess or holiday gift!

I hope you enjoy this tutorial. If you make one, I’d love to see it! And be sure to add it to the MBS Flickr pool.

Eva Patchwork Memo Board

Hi, it’s Melissa from the Polkadot Chair. I’m excited to share this memo board idea with you. I know that the memo board idea has been around for a while, but I thought this was a fun new twist on it. It is a great way to show off the beautiful Eva fabric and a perfect project if you are a beginning quilter. (the ribbon will hide your seams *grin*).
The charm pack is perfect to use with this since you will get to use a large variety of fabrics to add interest and color to your board. I designed this board with cork so that it could do double duty. You could use it as a memo board or a pin board.

1 Eva Charm Pack

1/4″ wide ribbon
Buttons of various sizes
1 piece of foam core (buy it at your local craft store)
1 package of cork tile squares
fusible fleece

Spray Paint

I designed my memo board to fit in a 12×16 frame that I already had (I spray painted it to match the fabric). This is the layout that I came up with to fit best in the frame. It seems like you will have extra squares, but you need to have enough give to wrap around the back of the cork and secure to the back of the frame.

Sew the squares together like this. Use 1/4″ seams.
Next assemble your board base.
Cut a piece of foam core to 12×16. Double check that it fits in your frame, it needs to be a bit loose to allow room for the fabric.
To cut the foam core just use your rotary cutter and ruler… use an old blade since it will dull your blade.
Cut and piece the cork squares to fit on the foam core pieces. You can also use your rotary cutter to cut the cork. Using hot glue secure at the corners. Cover the entire piece of foam core.
Next cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece the same size as the foam core. You are making a sandwich. It will look like this from the side. You will have foam core, cork board, 2 layers fusible fleece then your fabric.
If you wish, at this point add a monogram or applique image to one of the squares of your memo board.
Then, iron the fusible fleece onto the backside of your charm square piece on the section of it that you want to SHOW in your frame. DOUBLE CHECK it is in the right spot before you iron it on.
Next trim the fabric so that it is 2″ wider than the fusible fleece on all sides.
Now you will begin to lay out your ribbon. Begin at one corner and working diagonally, start by pinning ribbon the width of your fabric along the seams.
Next, start laying ribbon in the opposite direction. Every place that the ribbon overlaps place a pin. You will put a button here later. (make sure the ribbon is taught)
Using your sewing machine, stitch the ends of each piece of ribbon down. This will prevent it slipping when you hand sew on your buttons.
Using buttons of random sizes, begin hand sewing them on. You will sew them on each place the ribbon overlaps that will show in the frame.
Take your fabric piece and lay it over the cork/foam core piece. Using a hot glue gun, generoulsy glue the fabric and ribbon to the back. Make sure that you put a dot of glue under the ends of each piece of ribbon.
Flip it over and it will look like this! When you are done slip it into your frame and secure. Hang it up and enjoy!
1 memo board per charm pack.

The Candy Box {youth quilt}

the candy box finishes at 50″x60″ and is a perfect youth quilt

i made mine out of hushabye and it is adorable!

1 Charm Pack

1 Layer Cake

1 yd border – Dragonfly Brown 23018-41

1/3 yd inner border – Droplets Pink 23002 45

3 1/2 yds backing if print is directional (piece vertically)
3 yds if you pick a different not directional print (piece horizontally)
I used Bunny Damask Brown 23006-44 and needed 3 1/2 yds

Scrappy binding from Layer Cake leftovers

Cutting Mat with printed grid.
10 1/2″ or larger square ruler
PDF Template – {the last page of the printable version.}

1. Start by Planning out your quilt.
Each block will use one charm and 2 Layer Cake pieces. I’ll be using a-d throughout the tutorial to help guide you.

You can “audition” colors in blocks by folding the one LC diagonally on top of another and putting the charm in the center. {see below on design wall}
It will give you an approximate view of what the block will look like.
If you want a scrappy unplanned look you can skip this step.

2. Once you have the 20 blocks planned its time to start cutting. Start by working with one block at a time.

3. The layer cake pieces need to be cut down to 6×10. Is the print is not directional it does not matter what side you cut from. If the print is directional you will need to pay attention. If the LC will be the side triangles {a & c} or top and bottom triangles {b & d}. If it is going to be the sides you want to cut the 4″ section off one side. It it is going to be the top and bottom you will want to cut the 4″ section off the top or bottom.
4. Now you need to slice it into the two units. This isn’t difficult but if you aren’t paying attention it is easy to mess up. Luckily I only messed up once and you have 2 extra Layer Cake pieces!
Line your 6×10 piece up with the grid on your mat. You want to line your ruler up 2″ down on the left and 2″ up on the right. This should give you a 45 degree angle that will slice your piece diagonally from top left to bottom right. To be sure this is where it helps to line up the template you printed and cut out. The piece you are cutting should be a bit bigger. {do not use the template to cut your fabric.. it is only to help you line things up.. also i added a grain line on the one for you guys} cut!

For top/bottom {b & d} pieces that are directional you’ll want to put them on your cutting board horizontally. Measure in 2″ from the bottom left and 2″ in from the top right and repeat all other steps.

5. Now you need to trim off a little triangle. Line your ruler up with the line you just cut and the point of the piece at 2 1/2″ Cut.
{the template helps here too}

I found it easiest to cut one block and sew one block– much less chance of mixing pieces up. This is where a design wall is extremely helpful.

Now it is time to sew. The only “difficult” thing here is partial seams… but they are not hard!! The outside pieces have 2 long edges and 2 short… but they are NOT mirror images. 2 sides are bias and 2 are not. Make sure you keep the straight of grain edges on the outside and attach the bias edges to the charm.
6. Pick one outside piece {a} and your charm. line them up and sew 1/2 way down the charm.

7. Stop and remove. Iron the seam out and away from the charm. All seams for this quilt will be away from the charm. It does not matter that your pieces are hanging and not all sewn together. we’ll get there.
8. We are going to continue to piece the block in a counter clockwise manner. Add piece {b} and sew the entire seam. Press out.

9. Repeat to add {c}
10. Lastly add {d} and sew the entire seam. Press out.
11. Now that piece {d} has been put on you have what you need to finish sewing seam #1 to attach {a}. Finish sewing and press out. You have finished one block!
12. The beauty of this block is none of the angular seams line up with each other when sewing all the blocks together. So it leaves a good amount of “fudge” room. Use your 10 1/2″ or larger square ruler to trim your block up to 10 1/2″square. Do your best to keep the charm on a 45 degree angle. ( The center of the charm should be at 5.25″)
13. Repeat for 19 more blocks. Once you get the hang of it they go fast. I got the entire top with borders and all done in one day with some breaks and distractions too!
14. Once all 20 blocks are done sew the rows. Press seams in each row in the opposite direction of the next. Then sew all the rows.
15. Attach inner borders.
Inner border – cut (Cut 5 WOF x 1.5 and piece)
(2) 1 1/2″ x 50.5″ (or the length of your top)
(2) 1 1/2″ x 42.5″ (or the width of your top with the side borders on)
16. Attach outer borders.
Outer border – cut – (Cut 6 WOF x 4.5 and piece)
(2) 4 1/2″ x 52.5″ (or the length of your top w/ inner border)
(2) 4 1/2″ x 50.5″ (or the width of your top with both side borders on)
17. Layer & Quilt. I did a loopy design in brown thread on the top & bottom.
18. Use the 4×10 leftover Layer Cake pieces to make a scrappy binding. You’ll need about 230″ I cut mine to 2.25 x 10 and sewed them together on an angle.

one adorable quilt!!

want a kit? 2 great shops are offering them!

Elkhorn Quilt Company has hushabye kits
The Quilt Shoppe will be offering kits of “the candy box” in an assortment of moda collections very shortly


You may notice that the outside the pieces create secondary pinwheels. You can make them the focus by using the same fabric in the center and planning out your LC pieces to have 4 of the same color in each corner. For this you would need 2 layer cakes and 1/2 yd of the fabric you want to be in the center of the blocks. See the image below for a sample made out of Simple Abundance.

I have 9 blocks cut and on my design wall. You need to cut and plan this way because the four pieces that will make each “pinwheel” will actually be in 4 different blocks. I’m not sure if I’m going to stop here and make a table topper or keep going and make a large quilt. Stop by my blog and let me know what you think I should do!
by Julie of jaybirdquilts!

Scrap Bag Baby

I am so excited to be posting on MODA BAKE SHOP! I never thought, in a million years, that I would be able to add an “I was featured on Moda Bake Shop” button on my little ol’ blog. But here I am! Come visit me at my blog:

– 1 ‘Scrap Bag’ from Moda
– 1/2 yd. coordinating fabric for the border
– 1/2 yd. coordinating fabric for the Binding
– 1 2/3 yd. fabric for the back

(required yardage for the border/binding/back may vary depending on contents of your Scrap Bag)

-Open your scrap bag and dump out the contents.

-They’re ususally rolled together nice and neat, but I fluff mine up so I can get a good idea of the fabric contents.

-Take each strip and fold in half lengthwise.

-Line up the selvage side.

-Use a c-thru ruler and rotary cutter to trim the strip so that it is the same width the entire length.

-It doesn’t matter what the width is, they will all vary.

You just want a nice, even strip.

-Do this for all the strips.

-Choose two strips that you want to start with.

-Lay the strips next to eachother, right sides up, selvages to the right.

-Next, move one strip so that it’s selvage is overlapping the raw edge of the other strip by 1/2″ (About the width of the selvage itself.)

-Sew the strips together by top-stitching just less than 1/4″ from the outside edge of the selvage.
-I would recommend using pins to ensure a straight connection.
(I didn’t use pins and my quilt top got a little lopsided.)
-Don’t worry if the strips aren’t the same length- we’ll take care of that later.
-Don’t be too concerned with seam allowance on the top because the selvages won’t fray.

-But it is a good idea to check the back every once in a while to make sure you’re including enough of the raw edge from the other strip inside the seam.

-Continue adding strips until all the strips are used.


-Press your quilt top, then fold in half width-wise

(So all of your strips are running left to right).

-Use your c-thru ruler and rotary cutter to trim the sides of the quilt so that all the strips are the same length and the sides of the quilt are straight.

Now it’s time for the border!

-Use a measuring tape to measure the length of your quilt.
-Take this measurement from the center of the quilt.
-This measurement will tell you how long to cut your SIDE borders.

-Cut your border strips into 4 1/2″ widths.
-The length of my quilt was 41″, so I cut (2) 4 1/2″ strips to the length of 41″.
-Cut (2) of your strips to the length of your quilt.

(If the length of your quilt is longer than the length of your strips, you will need to piece 2 strips together, then cut them to the length you need.)

-Pin your strips to the sides of your quilt top (right sides together) and sew using a 1/4″ seam.

-Now you’ll need to measure the width of your quilt (including borders).

-Again, take this measurement from the center of your quilt.

-My quilt width (including borders) was 41″.

So again, I cut (2) border strips to the length of 41″ and attached them to the top and bottom of my quilt.

-Attach these border strips to the TOP and BOTTOM of your quilt.

-The quilt top is now complete!

-Quilt and bind using your favorite method.

My finished “Scrap Bag-Baby’ measures 41″ x 49”!
The finished size of your quilt will depend on the contents of your ‘Scrap Bag’ but should be in the Baby Quilt size range.

Binder Cover

Wow! This is my first Moda Bakeshop tutorial!

Since it is the beginning of the School year, I decided to do a School type project!

I hope you enjoy this SIMPLE pattern that I use to cover my Inspiration journals.


Feel free to email me if you have any questions:

-8 Simple Abundance Layer Cake Pieces

-1 Fat Quarter of Moda Muslin or Simple Abundance

1/2″ Seam Allowance unless otherwise stated in instructions.

Step 1- You will need one of those cheap 1″ binders. This one is a nasty shade of blue that refused to take a good photograph! When opened flat, it will measure about 12″ x 22″

Step 2- Pick out 8 coordinating Layer Cake pieces for this project.

(put the rest of them away until you are finished—to avoid confusion..believe me.)

Select three to become the outside cover, and cut them in half. Set them aside for a minute.

Step 3- Get another of your Layer Cake pieces to use for the spine of the Binder. Cut it into 2 pieces that are 4″ x 6 1/2″. Sew them, RST, at one end. Press seam flat.

Step 4- Get the Front and Back cuts, and sew them together as pictured below. After you have pressed the seams, sew the spine pieces in the center.

Step 5– We are going to make the inside flaps out of the remaining 4 pieces. Take one of the layer cake pieces and cut two 3″ x 10″ pieces. Sew these to the tops of 2 Layer Cake pieces.

Step 6- Choose one of these inside flap pieces to be on the left flap. (The flap that is inside the front cover.) We are going to make a pocket out of the last Layer Cake piece by folding it in half, and pressing it on the fold. Place the raw edges along the bottom.

Step 7- Fold the right edge, of this whole flap piece, under 1/2″ and press. Take the other flap piece, and fold the left edge under 1/2″ and press.

Step 8- Top stitch down these folded edges at 1/8″ and 1/4″. I sewed a pencil/scissors section into the pocket. You can sew as many sections as you need.

Step 9– Lay the outside piece on top of your muslin, and cut it to size.

Step 10- Make a sandwich. Lay the Outside face up, with the flap pieces face down and seams towards the center.

Step 11- Lay the Moda Muslin on top of it all, and sew around the edges with a

1/4″ seam allowance.

Leave a 3″ opening, at the spine fabric, for turning right side out.

Step 12- Clip the corners close to the stitching line, and turn right side out. Press the opening in 1/4″ so that it matches the rest of your seam line. Edge Stitch it closed.

Step 13– Put the cover on your ugly….uninspiring binder.

You will have to bend your binder backwards to get it on both sides.

Step 14– Ta-Dah!!! Look how cute it is! If it is too big, you can top stitch the edges to make it tighter. ( If it is too small….uhhhhh….cram it in there really hard!)

You can get 5 binder covers out of a Layer Cake.
I think these would be great for your Inspiration Journals, Recipe Books, Scrap Books, etc.

Mine is already full!

For more ideas and a GIVEAWAY visit my blogs : lola…again!!! and Izzy & Ivy Designs.

Mill House Inn Tote Bag

1 Mill House Inn Honey Bun by Fig Tree Quilts
1/3 yard of Coordinating fabric (bottom of bag, handles)
1/4 yard of Coordinating fabric (tie on front, loop closure)
1/2 yard of broadcloth or coordinating fabric for lining of bag
1 button (inch or larger) for button loop closure
1/2 yard of Warm & Natural or other similar batting

Pick out 14 of your favorite honey bun strips, cut them so they are 15-16″ long. You can use the rest of of the strips for another project or bag.

Step 2 – Cut two 7″ pieces. These will be for the top of the bag.

Step 3 – Cut two 15 x 7″ pieces out of your 1/3 yard of coordinating fabric. Make sure when you cut these that there is enough fabric to make the handles which will require 2 – 21 x 4″ pieces of fabric. Sew the two 15 x 7″ coordinating fabrics onto the bottom of the two pieced pieces of fabric. Make sure that the end strip of 1st piece and beginning strip of 2nd piece are different so that when the bag is sew together there aren’t two of the same strips by each other.

Step 4 – Cut two batting pieces a little bigger than the pieced pieces you just finished. Lay pieced fabric on top of batting and quilt. If you don’t know how or don’t want to free hand quilt with your machine, you could just sew in between each stripe and at the bottom. Do this with both pieced pieces.

Step 5 – Trim extra batting off of both pieces. Place right sides together making sure the strips of fabric are together and the bottoms are together and sew around the sides and bottom using a 1/4″ seam allowance, turn fabric right side out.

Step 6- Making the tie around the middle of bag. Cut a 3″ x 37″ piece of fabric from your 1/4 yard of coordinating fabric. Fold in half width wise with right sides together and press. Cut both ends off at a 45 degree angle, or whatever looks good to you. Sew up the ends and down the side of tie (leaving an opening to turn). Now turn so right sides are out and press. stitch up small opening on side.

Step 7 – Pin tie onto the bag. Do this by folding tie in half length wise to find the middle and mark, also mark the middle of the back of the bag where the strips of fabric meet the bottom fabric. Now fold the fabric in half length wise, this just helps with making sure it’s centered on the bag when you pin it. Starting at the back of the bag where you marked, and the mark on the middle of the tie start pining tie onto bag by lining up the fold of the tie to the seam where the strips of fabric and bottom of bag come together and pin all the way around. Stop pinning when you get to the front middle two strips. This is where you’ll tie a knot. I feel like I just made that way more complicated then it needed to be, hopefully it makes some sense.

Now sew tie onto bag using about a 1/8″ seam allowance and sewing down the top and bottom of tie fabric. Remember to stop when you get to the front two middle strips of fabric.

It should look like this……………

Now the easy part……..tie it into a knot.

Step 8 – Turn the bag inside out. At the bottom of inside of bag measure in 2 1/4″ inches on the side and bottom of bag at both corners. Now reposition so that the marks on the side seam and bottom seam are touching.
Pin at cut at the mark so it looks like this…………sew closed using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Do this on both right and left sides of bag.

Turn right side out and wa la, it should look like this.

Step 9 – Inside or lining of tote bag. Cut two 14 x 15″ pieces of broadcloth or coordinating fabric. Place right sides together and sew around the sides and bottom leaving about a 4 inch opening on one of the sides.

Step 10 – Handles. Cut two 21 x 4 inch pieces of fabric out of the 1/3 yard of coordinating fabric. Fold piece of fabric in half width wise and press. Unfold and fold outer edges into the middle crease. Now fold entire piece of fabric in half width wise and sew closed using about 1/8″ seam allowance.

Center handle between the 3rd and 4th strip like shown below and pin on both sides. Turn fabric around and pin 2nd handle on the back by doing the same thing.

Step 11 – Loop Closure. Cut a 4 x 61/2″ piece of fabric out of your coordinating 1/4 yard piece. Fold, iron and sew just like you did the handles. Now fold the sewn piece of fabric in half length wise and press. Fold both sides down at a 45 degree angle using the middle crease as your guide.

Turn piece around and sew down the bottom of the triangle of fabric using a 1/8″ seam allowance.

Pin onto the back of bag at the top in the very middle.
Step 12 – Last Step. Put the entire tote bag inside the lining so that the right side of bag and right side of lining is together. Line up the side seams and pin. Line up the tops of fabric and pin a few times. Now sew along the top all the way around using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Pull the outside of bag through the opening that you left on the side of your lining fabric. Stitch closed the 4″ opening left on the side for turning. Tuck lining of bag inside and press.

Now stitch around the top using a 1/8″ seam allowance.

Sew the button onto the front and you are done!!!

One Very Cute Tote Bag, perfect size to hold your crafts, a few diapers or even use as a purse.

Nicole Willmore