Twisty-Twirly Girly Skirt

Twisty-twirly girly skirt
by Sheri Howard

If you need a Spring or Easter skirt for your little darling, here is an easy, fast way to have one of your very own.

1 Honey Bun– I used Happy Campers by American Jane.
I was so excited I unrolled it before I took a picture with it’s cute tag! 1/2 yard coordinating fabric for waist band and skirt band.
3/4″ elastic
1- cute model –my neighbor!

Rick-rack to go around skirt bottom if desired.

All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise stated.

1.) Measure the length from the waist to the middle of the knee cap of your luck little lady. This will be the length of the honey bun strips for the skirt body. For example: 10″
2.) Measure the waist of your lucky lady. You will need this measurement to know how many strips for the skirt body. Your skirt body needs to be 4 times the waist measurement. for example: waist measurement 20″ Skirt body will be 80″
3.) Determine how many strips you can get from a length of honey bun based on 42″ strips. For example: waist to knee length 10″ you can get 4 lengths per strip. This math is not too hard because the finished size of the strips are 1″ So, I need 20 full strips from the honey bun that will be cut to 10″
Good luck trying to choose just 20!
You don’t have to use just 20, mix and match any of the strips.

1.) Sew the 42″ length of the honey bun strips into groups of 2. Press seams all one way. 2.) Cut into length measuring the waist to knee. For example: 10″ Don’t panic yet because you will still add some length with the waistband and skirt band.3.) Sew the groups of 2 into groups of 4. 4.) Sew groups of 4 into groups of 8 then 16 etc. until you have the needed strips. For example: 80 strips. Press seams all one way. Sew ends together to form a circle.

1.) Cut 1- waist band 6″ x waist size plus 8″ For example: (6″ x 20″ + 8″) = 6″ x 28″waistband.
2.) Sew together end to end to make a circle using a 1/4″ seam.
3. Press under 1/4″ from top.

4.) Measure and turn down 1″ for elastic casing.
5.) Sew around waist band and make sure to leave an opening for elastic. Don’t insert elastic until skirt is finished.

1.) Gather skirt onto waist band using about a 1/2″- 5/8″ seam. 2.) Top stitch along gathered seam to help gathers lay flat.

1.) Cut 1- bottom band 4″ x width of skirt body plus 1/2″ for seam. For example :
(4″x 80″ + 1/2″) = 4″ x 80 1/2″ bottom skirt band.
2.) Sew together end to end to make a circle using a 1/4″ seam. Press seam open.
3.) Press bottom skirt band wrong sides together length of band.

4.) Sew to bottom of skirt body. I like to zig-zag or overlock the band and skirt to eliminate strings after washing.

5.) Press band toward band and top stitch to help keep strips laying flat.

1.) Measure waist and cut elastic that measurement. Thread through waistband casing over lapping 1/2″ on ends. Sew casing closed. Try it on your lucky little lady!

Add medium rick-rack over the top stitching along the bottom band. So Cute!

Tumbling Spools Friendship Quilt

Tumbling Spools Friendship Quilt
Finished Size: 38″ x 38″

Hi, I’m Cindy from Hyacinth Quilt Designs. When I saw Sweetwater’s line “Make Life…” I knew it would be the perfect fabric for a spool and friendship quilt. The border is made of signature blocks, giving you an area for your quilting friends to sign their names.

  • 1 Charm Pack “Make Life…” 5420 PP
  • 1 yard Moda Bella Solid Bleached White 9900 97
  • 1/2 Yard Moda Bella Solid Brown 9900 125
  • 1/4 yard Moda Bella Solid Green 9900 73
  • 1/8 yard Moda Bella Solid Blue 9900 137
  • 1/8 yard Moda Bella Solid Gold 9900 81
  • 1/8 yard Moda Bella Solid Red 9900 140
  • 1 yard Print for Border and Binding 5422-12
  • 1 1/4 yards for Backing
  • 42″ x 42″ piece of batting

1. Choose 23 Charm Squares (I eliminated the lighter colors). Cut each one in half in both directions to get 4 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. You will need 89 – so set 3 aside.

2. From the white, cut:

  • 2 strips 2 1/2″ – cut into 50 rectangles 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
  • 4 strips 1 1/2″ – cut into 100 squares 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″
  • 3 strips 3 1/2″ – cut into 32 squares 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″
  • 4 strips 1 1/2″ – cut into 2 border 1 1/2″ x 20 1/2″ and 2 borders 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″

3. From EACH of the green, gold, red, blue and brown solids cut:

  • 2 strips 1 1/2″ – cut into 10 rectangles 1 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (50 total)

4. From the remaining brown solid, cut 8 strips 1 1/2″, then cut these into:

  • 2 borders 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″
  • 2 borders 1 1/2″ x 24 1/2″
  • 2 borders 1 1/2″ x 30 1/2″
  • 2 borders 1 1/2″ x 32 1/2″

5. From the remaining green solid, cut:

  • 4 squares 3 1/2 ” x 3 1/2″

6. From the border print, cut:

  • 4 strips 3 1/2″, cut into 2 borders 3 1/2″ x 32 1/2″ and 2 borders 3 1/2″ x 38 1/2″
  • 4 strips 2 1/2″ for binding

Piecing the Quilt

7. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 4 white 1 1/2″ squares.

8. Place one square on each end of 2 matching 1 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ solid rectangles. Make sure your lines are going in the right direction! Sew on the drawn lines.

9. Press the seam allowances toward the white squares and trim the bottom 2 layers.

10. Sew a 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ white rectangle to opposite sides of a print 2 1/2″ square. Press the seam allowances toward the print square.

11. Sew the units from steps 9 and 10 together to complete the block. Press the seam allowances toward the center square. Repeat and make 25 Spool blocks

12. Sew the Spool blocks together in 5 rows of 5 blocks each, turning every other block as pictured. Press the seam allowances in each row in alternate directions. Sew the rows together to complete the center.

13. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 20 1/2″ white borders to opposite sides of the quilt; press. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″ to the remaining two sides; press. Repeat with the 1 1/2″ x 22 1/2″ brown borders and the 1 1/2″ x 24 1/2″ brown borders.

14. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of 2 print 2 1/2″ squares.

15. Place a marked square on opposite corners of a 3 1/2″ white square. Be sure your lines are going in the right direction! Sew on the line.

16. Press one seam allowance toward the print and one seam allowance toward the white. Trim the bottom 2 layers. Repeat to make 32 Signature blocks.

17. Sew 8 Signature blocks in a row – alternating the direction as shown and turning your blocks so that adjoining seams are going in the opposite direction; press. Make 4 rows.

18. Sew a green 3 1/2″ square to opposite ends of two of the rows from step 17.

19. Sew the two rows without the green squares to opposite sides of the quilt; press. Add the Signature block rows with the green squares to the remining two sides; press.

20. Sew the 1 1/2″ x 30 1/2″ brown borders to opposite sides of the quilt; press. Repeat with the 1 1/2″ x 32 1/2″ brown border strips; press.

21. In the same manner as step 20 add the 3 1/2″ x 32 1/2″ print borders and the 3 1/2″ x 38 1/2″ print borders to the quilt.

23. Quilt, bind and enjoy!

One Tumbling Blocks Friendship quilt to grace your sewing studio!

Botany Charm Pack Reversible Purse

Hi Moda Bake Shop Fans!
I’m Bradie Sparrow from QuiltCetera.Com. I am thrilled to share this fun reversible purse recipe with you today. I love to make these purses with bright, funky fabrics, and this time I chose the new Moda line Botany, designed by Lauren and Jessi Jung. Say hello to my oldest of 8 children. My beautiful daughter Landen Emily modeling this cute little purse for us. Now, let’s get on with the show!

One Charm Pack of Botany Fabric – or any Moda charm pack with minimum 36 squares.
Batting : 2 pieces measuring aprox. 15 X 10.5 inches for body of purse
and 2 pieces 1 1/4 inch X 26.5 inches for purse handles.
2 Large Buttons to match fabric

Start by separating your charms into their different color ways. Choose two colors for the outside of your bag, and another two colors for the inside. As you can see, The Boss (AKA Teenaged owner of said bag) chose pink and green for one side, and brown with teal for the other side.

To Make the Sides of the Bag:
You will need 12 squares for the inside and 12 for the outside. Sew them together in groups of 6 as shown in the pictured layout.

Take one panel of 6 (pink/green shown) and stitch it onto your 10.5 inch X 15 inch piece of batting. Stitch about 1/8 inch away from outer edge of fabric so your stitches will be hidden in the seam allownace later. Trim away the excess batting.
Repeat for one brown and teal panel.

To shape the top of your bag:
Flip the second pink/green panel (without batting) to it’s wrong side. Make the following marks in the two outside squares of the top row. Mark a line 2.5 inches from the side of the square , and another line 2.5 inches from the top of the square. Draw a diagonal line between the two marks. Mark another small line 1/4 inch below the first mark on the side.
Use the same panel for the next step.

 To shape the bottom of the bag:
Make the following marks in the two outside squares of the bottom row. Mark a line 2.5 inches from the side of the square , and another line 2.5 inches from the bottom of the square. This marks the beginning and end of the curve to shape the bottom of the bag.

 Use a CD or DVD to draw the curve. This will be your cutting line. When you stitch the curve, it will be inside this drawn line. Repeat both shaping steps to mark the brown/teal panel.

To attach the bottom of two panels together:
Place your first pink/green panel, batting side down on your table. Place the second, with the markings, right side down on top of first panel. Pin the sides first at the small 1/4 inch mark. Pin your seams to make them match up nicely.

Pin the sides of the middle square in the bottom row (shown with 2 white flower head pins in picture above). This square needs to remain unstitched. You will turn the purse right side out through this hole in a later step. Begin stitching at the mark 1/4 inch below the diagonal line on the right side of the bag, carefully rounding the corners as you come to them. Remember not to stitch the middle square! (This is only for one ‘pouch’. When you attach the brown/green panels to each other, you WILL stitch the middle square.) Finish stitching 1/4 below the diagonal line on the other side of the bag. Trim the rounded corners and press seams open.

Repeat for the brown/teal panels.

To Attach the two pouches:
Turn the brown/teal pouch inside out (right side of fabric facing inwards) with batting facing the table surface. Turn the pink/green bag right side facing out with batting layer closest to you. Ensure you don’t have both batting layers on one side of the bag.

Begin pinning the top two layers together to attach the top of the two pouches. You will be pinning a pink/green to a brown/teal.

First pin the top outer corners to align the pieces. Next pin the seams. Lastly pin the bottom of the two diagonal lines. Repeat for the other side of both pouches. Begin stitching on the bottom a diagonal line. The seam allowance will be outside of this diagonal stitching line. Don’t worry about the small gap left open, we’ll close that up real soon. Stitch around the entire top of the bag ending at the bottom of the opposite diagonal line.
Repeat for pinning and stitching the other side of the bag.

Pull the inside bag out of the outer bag. Lay bag flat and trim top corners 1/4 outside of the stitching line. Make sure no part of the bag is under the area being trimmed.
(Don’t ask me why I am stressing this point!)

Now back to that little gap on both sides of the bag. Place a pin at the bottom of the diagonal line and stitch between the pin and the 1/4 inch mark only. You will need to stitch this gap twice on each side of the bag.

In the picture, I am showing you how the batting on the back is pointing to the left, and the batting in the front points to the right. Next stitch down the side of the bag to close the left over space.
This finishes the construction of the bag!

Now for the little details….

Remember the hole we left open in the middle square of the bag? Pull the entire bag out through that hole and arrange one bag inside the other.
Press the top of the bag really well, reaching inside to push out the corners as needed.
Stitch the opening closed. I stitched mine by machine (so it wasn’t flopping around) then removed the stitches after and finished it by hand.

Choose a thread you like for top stitching around the top of the bag.

See where the blue flower head pin is? This is where you should start and stop your stitching, You can back stitch here and it will be hidden by the purse straps.

Making the straps:
Choose 6 charm squares to match the brown/teal side of the bag. Sew them together in one long strip to measure 5 inch wides by 27.5 inches. Fold in half and cut the strip in half to finish with 2 strips measuring 2.5 by 27.5 inches.
Repeat with another 6 charm squares for the pink/green side of the bag.

Press the strap in half lengthwise.

Open the strap up and fold each side in towards the middle and press again.

Place the long batting strips inside the strap and close the folds over the batting.

Fold up the short end and stitch it in place to finish the ends.
Repeat with the straps to match the pink/green side of bag.
Do Not place batting inside the second set of straps.

Lay the straps out on top of each other, with folds facing each other. Pin together and top stitch down the sides leaving the last 5 inches unstitched. This is how you will attach the straps to the purse.

Pin the straps onto the purse matching the proper colors. The bottom of the strap should be 3.5 inches from the top of the bag, and the strap should be centered over the seam. Arrange the other color of strap onto the inside of the purse and pin in place also. I push a pin through at the corners to make sure bath starps are in the same place, inside and out. You will stitch both straps on at the same time.
The photo on the right shows the straps after stitching to the purse.

We are sooooo close now! Make the strap closure:
Take one last charm square and cut in half. Sew the two pieces together to finish with a long piece 2.5 inches by 9.5 inches.

Press the short edges under, and stitch in place. Fold strap in half, open up and fold outer sides into middle, just like we did with the purse strap. Finally, fold the whole strap in half, to finish approx 9.25 inches by 5/8 inch.

Fold the strap as shown in picture and stitch across to hold in place. Center the strap on the purse 1.5 inches from the top of the bag. Pin in place, stitch, add a couple of buttons,and voila! You have a new bright and funky reversible purse.

And there you have it… A reversible one charm pack purse! I look forward to reading your thoughts and comments. Have fun!

Deep Blue Sea

Hello again! I’m Natalia from Piece N Quilt and I am so happy to be sharing this tutorial.
The main part of this quilt is made from a panel and some turnovers.

2 Nautical & Nice Turnovers
1 Nautical & Nice panel
7 yards Nautical & Nice Bubble Regatta Red (background & backing)
1 Yard Nautical & Nice Ropes Regatta Red for binding
2 Yards Nautical & Nice Surf White Cap
2 Yards Nautical & Nice Waves Ocean  
1 Yard Nautical & Nice Stripe White Cap
1/4 Yard Nautical & Nice Ropes Blue


Start out by cutting  36 -6″ squares from your background fabric.

Cut in 1/2 diagonally. As shown in the image above.

Cut in half again in the opposite direction. As shown in the image above.

Now separate your turnover pieces into the color combination’s you’d like for your blocks.

Now cut your turnovers in half as show in the image above.

Cut 72 – 4″ squares.

Now stitch lay your block out as shown in the image above.
Stitch together in rows.
Now stitch the block together to create a block similar to the one above. Repeat this process until you have 18 blocks.
Now cut your sashing. Cut 7 – 2.5″ strips. Since I used a directional fabric I cut the sashing for the sides of the block with the fabric going the direction shown in the image above.

For the top and bottoms of the blocks cut 7 – 2.5″ strips withe the fabric going the direction shown in the image above.

Cut 33 – 2.5″ squares for the cornerstones of the sashing.
Stitch the bottom section of the quilt together as shown in the image above.

From your white background fabric cut 4 – 2.5″ strips.

Add a border around one block for the top left corner of your quilt. As shown in the image above.

Sew the other two blocks together with the white sashing as shown in the image above.
Now take your panel and trim all of the borders off.
You want your panel to look like this.

Now stitch the single block with white border to a 17.5″x9″ white strip. Then sew to a piece of sashing as shown in the image above.

Now take this piece and sew it to the side of your panel.

For the right side where the applique words will go sew a 9″x33.5″ piece. As shown in the image above.

Now you will print out onto paper the saying “You and me and the deep blue sea”.
For the section shown above you will need to stitch a 10.5″x29″ piece as shown in the image above.
Using our starch applique tutorial you will applique the words onto the two sections.

After the applique is complete you will sew the top section of the quilt together as shown in the image above.

Now sew the top and bottom sections of the quilt together.

Using your stripe fabric you will add a 3.5″ border.


  Now quilt, bind with the red material and enjoy.

1- 87″x83″ deep blue sea quilt.

I hope that you enjoyed this tutorial as much as I enjoyed designing and making this quilt. Don’t forget to stop by my blog and website. I’d love to hear what you think. 
You can also save 10% off your total purchase @ Piece N Quilt when you use discount code ‘modabakeshop’ .

Baby Life Quilt

hey there, Vanessa from V and Co. here.
i’ve had this quilt bouncing around in my head for quite some time. so when i saw the “make life” line by sweetwater, i instantly knew that this quilt needed to be made out of this line.
it seems like everywhere i turn someone is announcing that they are pregnant or that they just found out what they are having. with just one layer cake i was able to make two completely different color scheme quilts, and i still have some left that i’m working with (another tutorial in the works with the leftovers!)

shall we get started?

1 make life layer cake.
for each quilt:
1 1/4 yards of background fabric (shown are:5424 20 Apple and 5424 24 Earth )
1 1/2 yards fabric for back (used but now shown: 5421 25 Ocean, and 5421 22 Apple
1/2 yard of fabric for binding (5424 19 Ocean and 5424 11 Apple)
pattern for words (get pdf here)
heat and bond

cut your background fabric to measure 38 by 36 inches.
you will need to print out the letters pdf file. and gather up a few squares you would like to use as your letters. i chose to use the solid color squares but you can use whichever you would like.
next i traced onto my heat and bond the letters that i needed.

cut out your letters but leaving a little paper around each letter. (it makes for cutting the letter out easier i think)
iron onto the wrong side of your fabric. (make sure you utilize your fabric and try to use as little fabric as possible by starting in the corner.)

cut out your letters.
(with paper still on the back) see where you would like to place your words. make sure they are straight by using a ruler.
i measured 3 1/2 inches from the bottom and left side of my fabric as the place where i wanted my last word to be.
i then placed my words up from there.
take off the paper from the back and when you have the placement of where you want the letters, iron them down onto your fabric.
**to secure your letters either zig zag or blanket stitch around your letters. when i do this i like to use clear thread.
(i didn’t on these quilts knowing that these were just going to be “for show” quilts)
i then took the rest of my squares. i picked out the ones i wanted to be in my border.
cut out strips with widths of 1 1/2 inches. i did make them different lengths because i wanted a scrappy look.

i then sewed my strips together so they measured 1 1/2 by 38 inches.

and then sewed them to the left and right of my main panel.
the top and bottom scrappy border should measure 1 1/2 by 38

next you are going to cut out two strips of your remaining background fabric to 2 by 40 inches.
this will be your left and right outer border.
your top and bottom border will measure 2 by 41 inches

sew them on to the top and bottom.
your finished quilt top will measure 40 by 41 inches.
when you are ready to bind your quilt, i have a binding tutorial on my blog: check it out here

two quilts with the capability of making a few more…or wait and see what i do with the rest of it. tutorial coming soon to my blog.
now your baby, or your friend’s baby can have a totally cute mod baby quilt and the color combos are endless with this line!

thanks! and can’t wait to show you what i do with the rest of scraps!
tutorial and pictures brought to you by V and Co.

Aster Manor Pillow

by Roslyn Mirrington of Bloom
The muted prettiness of ‘Aster Manor’ by 3 Sisters combined simply with linen, pearl buttons and ric-rac make up this dreamy little pillow.
Finished size: approximately 12″ x 20″

1 x ‘Aster Manor‘ by 3 Sisters honey bun (3990HB)
0.5 yard linen or linen/cotton blend fabric
1 x rectangular cushion insert, 30 x 50 cm (12″ x 20″)
7 x cream pearl buttons (I used Moda’s ‘Bag of Buttons’)
0.75 yard ivory 0.5″ cotton ric-rac
lightweight fusible fleece (I used Vilene H 630 made by Freudenberg)
piping cord
ecru DMC embroidery floss

From the fusible fleece, cut a rectangle 12.5″ x 20.5″.
From the honey bun, choose 7 strips. From each of these strips, cut a 12.5″ length.
Lay the rectangle of fusible fleece on ironing board, with fusible side up. Lay the first fabric strip along one short edge of the fleece, and fuse.
Lay the second strip on top of the first strip, right sides together. Pin in place.
Using a 0.25″ seam, stitch the strips together to the fusible fleece.
Open the strips, & flip the second strip onto the fusible fleece and press.
Cut a 12.5″ piece of ric-rac. Pin the ric-rac in place on the second fabric strip.
Sew ric-rac in place using a 0.25″ seam.

Lay the third strip on top of the second strip & ric-rac, right sides together. Pin in place.

Flip the pillow cover over. Stitch the third strip in place by stitching just inside your previous row of stitching.

This ensures that the row of stitching holding the ric-rac in place does not show when you flip the third strip back and press.
Using this method, add a further 4 fabric strips to the pillow panel, with a second row of ric-rac between the 3rd and 4th fabric strips.

Making the piping
Cut a 12.5″ strip from one of your honey bun strips. Press the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Place the piping cord along the fold on the inside of the strip. Pin.
Using a zipper foot, and moving your sewing machine needle far to the right, sew a row of stitching as close as you can to the piping cord.
Trim the fabric strip to 0.25″ from your stitching line.

Pin your piping to the last fabric strip of your pillow panel.

Again, using the zipper foot, stitch the piping to the pillow. Try to stitch just inside the previous row of stitching.

From the linen fabric, cut a rectangle 12.5″ x 13.5″. Pin the linen rectangle to the pillow front. Flip the pillow panel over & sew the linen to the panel by stitching along the previous row of stitching which secured the piping.

Press the linen back across the fusible fleece & fuse.

Button embellishment
Seven pearl buttons are hand-stitched on the sixth strip of the pillow top. Place a small pencil mark 1.75″ in from the top and bottom edge. Mark every 1.5″ between.
Using 3 strands of ecru DMC embroidery floss, work a running stitch along the centre of the sixth strip, stopping at each pencil mark to secure a pearl button.

Making the pillow back
Cut one rectangle of linen fabric, 8″ x 12.5″. From a honey bun strip, cut one 12.5″ length. Pin the honey bun strip to the 12.5″ edge of the linen rectangle, with the right side of the strip towards the wrong side of the rectangle – I know this sounds weird, but stay with me! Stitch with a 0.25″ seam.
With the wrong side of the honey bun strip facing up, press 0.25″ seam under.
Fold the honey bun strip back over to the right side of the rectangle.

Topstitch this honey bun strip, 1/8″ in from either edge.
Cut another rectangle of linen fabric, 17″ x 12.5″. Turn the 12.5″ end of the rectangle in 1.25″ towards the wrong side and press. Turn in a further 1.25″ to give a double hem. Stitch this hem, 1/8″ in from either edge.
Lay the two back rectangles, with the honey bun strip trimmed piece overlapping the hemmed linen piece. Overlap the rectangles until the total width is the same as your pillow front. Pin in place.
Stay-stitch the backing pieces together at the overlap, top and bottom, using 1/8″ seam.

Making the ties
Choose a honey bun strip for your ties, and cut into four equal lengths (approximately 10.5″ to 11″). Fold each strip in half lengthwise, right sides together and press. Stitch across one short end and along each long side using a 0.25″ seam. Turn the tie right side out and press. Make four ties.
Pin two of the ties to one side of the back panel, centred at 4.25″ and 8.25″ from the top. (The raw edge of the tie will be against the ruler).
Stitch across the end of the tie to secure.
Fold the ties back over themselves and pin.
Topstitch the ties in place as shown below to enclose the raw edge.
Repeat for all four ties.

Completing the pillow
Place the pillow front and back right sides together. Keeping the ties well out of the way, stitch around the entire pillow using 0.25″ seam. Overlock or zigzag the seam to strengthen if desired.
Turn pillow cover to right side through the back opening. Put cushion insert inside cover and your pillow is complete. The front side should look something like this:
The back of your pillow should have two nifty little bow ties.
Each honey bun will yield approximately 10 of these pillows.

"Off the Grid" Sliced Nine Patch Quilt

I’m so excited to be back for my second Moda Bake Shop tutorial! This time I’ll share a quick and easy quilt pattern featuring my variation on the classic 9-patch block. Finishing out at approximately 50″ square, this quilt would make a great lap quilt, baby quilt, or dorm room quilt to send off to your favorite college student. If you’re inspired, maybe you can even whip one up this week for your Valentine!

  • 2 charm packs (Note: you will need a total of 81 charm squares. My two charm packs of MoMo’s “Wonderland” line only yielded 80 squares, so I cut my final square from my backing fabric.)
  • 1 honey bun of the same line
  • 3 yards of a coordinating backing fabric
  • 1 yard of a coordinating binding fabric

Step 1:
Separate out your charm squares into nine groups of 9. You will be sewing these bundles into 9-patch blocks, so be cognizant of your mixture of color & pattern in each group.

NOTE: all of the squares will be cut down further in later steps except for the center square of each 9-patch. So if you have a large print that you want to feature, or an image that lends itself to fussy-cut squares, it would be good to include one in each of the bundles.

Step 2:
Sew your first group of 9 squares into a 9-patch block. Remember, the center square is the only one that will not be cut down further, so be aware of your placement of squares. Press your seams accordingly.

Step 3:
Select one of your 9-patch blocks. See how the block features 2 vertical and 2 horizontal seams? Using your cutting mat and straight-edged ruler, make a straight, vertical cut that measures 2.25″ to the right of the right-hand vertical seam. (I lined the seam up against a vertical inch mark on my mat, and used the mat guides to measure 2.25″ inches over.) This will slice through the squares in the third column of the block.
See my picture to help visualize this step:

Step 4:
Perform the same step, but this time measure 2.25″ to the left of the left-hand vertical seam. This will leave you with 3 separate pieces of the block.

Step 5:
Select 4 honey bun strips. Be sure to select strips of colors and/or patterns that might not already appear in that 9-patch block. From each of the 4 strips, cut a 7.25″ piece and an 8″ piece. You should now have four 7.25″ pieces (each of a different print), and four corresponding 8″ pieces. Put the four 8″ pieces aside for now.

Step 6:
Arrange the four 7.25″ pieces into two “columns” of 2, in between the three pieces of the original block like so:
Sew the column pieces together:

Step 7:
Reassemble the block, with your newly created columns inserted where you had previously made the slices. Sew the 5 pieces back together.

Step 8:
Rotate your reassembled block 90 degrees. Once again, identify your two vertical seams. Repeat steps 3 & 4, making two more slices in your block.

Step 9:
Pull out the four 8″ pieces that you had put aside in step 5. Arrange them to match up with the pieces you have already sewn into the block. Each of the four prints should connect, making a cross-like pattern. See the picture to help clarify:

Step 10:
Sew these new column pieces together, and reassemble the block again. Your finished block should now look like this:

Step 11:
Repeat steps 2-10 for the remaining nine sets of charm squares, making a total of 9 “split nine-patch” blocks.

Step 12:

Now that we’ve made the 9 blocks for the quilt, the remainder of the tutorial will step through sashing the blocks.

Take an inventory of your remaining honey bun strips. (I don’t know about you, but at this point I had a huge pile of cut-up strips. It’s a good time to make sure you have what you need for the remaining steps.)

  1. First, find 8 honey bun strips that have at least 16.75″ in length each. (If longer than 16.75″, trim down to size.) These can be prints that you haven’t used in your quilt yet (preferred), or leftover strips from making your blocks. Put these aside for now.
  2. Pull out 8 more honey bun strips of at least 16″ in length each. These can be prints that you haven’t used in your quilt yet, or leftover strips from your blocks. Cut two 8″ pieces from each of these strips, yielding 16 total 8″ pieces (2 of each print).
  3. Find another 8 honey bun strips that have at least 9″ in length each. These can also be prints that you haven’t used in your quilt yet, or leftover strips from making your blocks.
  4. Finally, find or cut 8 more 8″ strips. These can be from any prints that you’ve used already in the quilt, or from any unused honey bun strips that you still have.

Let’s recap this step. You should now have:

  • 8 “A” strips, 8″ in length each (8 different prints)
  • 16 “B” strips, 8″ in length each (8 different prints, two of each print)
  • 8 “C” strips, 16.75″ in length each (8 different prints)
  • 8 “D” strips, 9″ in length each (8 different prints)

Step 13:

Lay out your nine blocks in an eye-pleasing 3 x 3 grid. Pull out your 8″ “A” & “B” strips. Working in vertical columns, pick two pieces to serve as sashing in between each block, as well as above the top block and below the bottom block.
In your first column, select four “A” strips and four “B” strips. (Remember, your “B” strips are the ones that each has a matching partner.) Your four “B” strips should occupy the right position of each sashing, closest to the center of the quilt:

Sew all of the sashing pieces together, and then assemble the entire first column:

Step 14:
In your middle column, select eight “B” strips. Lay them out to create sashing above, below, and in between the blocks. The first four should be the matches to what you’ve already used in the first column. These will occupy the left position of each sashing, matching each up with its partner in the first column.

Sew all of the sashing pieces together, and then assemble the entire middle column.

DO NOT sew the columns together yet.

Step 15:
In your third column, take your remaining four “A” strips and four “B” strips. Again, lay them out to create sashing in between the blocks. Your four “B” strips should occupy the left position of each sashing, matching each up with its partner in the middle column.

Sew all of the sashing pieces together, and then assemble the entire third column.

Step 16:
We will now be creating vertical sashing in between the columns using our “C” and “D” strips.

Create four vertical sashes, each comprised of a D+C+C+D strip (in that order). In other words, you will start with a 9″ strip, attach a 16.75″ strip, attach another 16.75″ strip, and finish with a 9″ strip. These will all be sewn together on their 1.5″ sides, creating a long, skinny continuous sashing strip.
We’re not worried about matching any prints up here, so just arrange them in an eye-pleasing layout.
Step 17:
Lay your quilt out, from left to right, in the following order:
  1. Skinny vertical sashing strip
  2. Vertical column 1
  3. Skinny vertical sashing strip
  4. Vertical column 2
  5. Skinny vertical sashing strip
  6. Vertical column 3
  7. Skinny vertical sashing strip
Sew all components together in this order.
Step 18:
Baste, quilt, and bind your quilt.

A brand new quilt!

NOTE: you will have leftover honey bun strips for some other fun Moda Bake Shop projects!

If you have any questions, please let me know in the comments below. And if you decide to make your own “Off the Grid” quilt, I would absolutely love to see it! Visit me at my blog,