Holiday Road Quilt

Hi, my name is Alison Tudor of Sew and Tell Quilts.  Holiday Road was inspired by the Summer Vacation Batiks line and my love of  3D and geometric designs.  I used yardage for my version, but fat quarters would make for a scrappier version.

Summer Vacation Batiks by Moda Fabrics
3/8 yd Ocean 4328-14
2-1/8 yds Ocean 4328-19
3/8 yd Sunset 4328-33
3/8 yd Sunset 4328-36
2-7/8 yds Sand 4328-41
3/8 yd Sunset 4328-35
1/4 yd Sunset 4328-32
4 yards backing fabric of your choice
1/2 yd your choice of binding fabric
68″ x 68″ batting
Foundation patterns

Cutting Directions

  • From the Sand background fabric cut 144 strips 2-3/4″ x 8″ for the star paper pieced blocks. Cut 72
  • 2-3/4″ x 2-3/4″ squares and 36 5″ x 2-3/4″ strips for the alternating pieced blocks
  • From Ocean blue Cut:  24 2-3/4″ x 8″ strips for the paper pieced star blocks and  72  2-3/4″ x 2-3/4″ squares and 36 5″ x 2-3/4″ strips for the alternating pieced blocks
  • From Sunset 4328-36 cut 32 2-3/4″ x 8″ strips for the paper pieced star blocks.
  • From Ocean 4328-14 cut 32 2-3/4″ x 8″ strips for the paper pieced star blocks.
  • From Sunset 4328-33 cut 32 2-3/4″ x 8″ strips for the paper pieced star blocks.
  • From Sunset 4328-32 cut 24 2-3/4″ x 8″ strips for the paper pieced star blocks.
  • For the Inner border cut six 2″ x WOF strips
  • For the Outer border cut seven 4-1/2″ x WOF strips
  • For binding cut seven strips 2-1/2″ x WOF

Piecing the Blocks
This quilt is made with two blocks.  Block 1 is a paper pieced block. Find the templates  {here}.

Block 1 Assembly:

  1. Make 18 copies of each of the paper-foundation pattern pieces and trim the pattern to a comfortable size, leaving at least 1/4˝ around the outside cutting line.  Tape the pieces together to make two identical halves, A and B.
  2. Place a 8” x  2-3/4”  printed rectangle right side up on the blank (unmarked) side of the pattern. Make sure the fabric covers the entire area by at least 1/4˝ on all sides and pin in place. Place a 8” x 2-3/4” white rectangle on top of  the print rectangle, right sides together. With the marked side of the paper foundation up and the fabrics on the bottom, sew on the line between areas A1 and A2.
  3. Fold the paper pattern back and trim the seam allowance to 1/4˝. Open the fabrics so that both pieces are right side up and press. 
  4.  Fold the paper back along the next seam line, between areas A2 and A3. Trim the fabric so that it extends 1/4˝ past the folded line. This trimming creates a straight edge upon which you can line up your next fabric piece, making the placement easier. 
  5.  Repeat step 4  adding white and print rectangles in numerical order until the pattern is completely covered with fabric pieces. Press the unit.  
  6.  Use a rotary cutter to trim away the excess fabric around the block, leaving a 1/4˝ seam allowance all around the outer sewing line Do this for both halves of each block.   To finish the block place the right sides together, carefully line up the two halves and sew a 1/4″ seam across the long side to complete the block.. The block should measure 9-1/2” square.  Make 18 of these blocks paying close attention to the layout diagram for color placement.
Paper pieced block

Block 2 Assembly:

  1. Sew a white 2-3/4″ square to a blue 2-3/4″ square.  
  2. Paying close attention to the block color layout, sew this unit to 5″ x 2-3/4″ rectangle.  Make four of these, two with a white corner and two with a blue corner. 
  3. Sew the quarters together to make two halves
  4. Sew the halves together to finish the block. 
  5. Square to 9-1/2″.  Make 18 of these blocks.
Alternating pieced block layout

Quilt Assembly:

  1. Following the layout diagram, sew blocks 1 and 2 side to side making sure to line up the seams.  Alternate blocks to make a row.   
  2. Sew the rows together, matching your seams to complete the quilt top center.
  1. For the inner border, sew two 2″ x WOF strips end to end, cut to 54-1/2″.  Sew these to the sides of the quilt center.
  2. Sew two 2″  x WOF strips end to end, cut to 57-1/2″.  Sew these to the top and bottom of the quilt center to finish the inner border.
  3. For the outer border, sew two 4-1/2″  x WOF strips end to end, cut to 57-1/2″.  Sew these to the sides of the quilt center.
  4. Sew two 4-1/2″  x WOF strips end to end, cut to 65″.  Sew these to the top and bottom of the quilt center to complete the quilt top.

Layer, baste, quilt and bind to complete the quilt.  I quilted this one in an overall spiral pattern.

Quilt Layout Diagram
Holiday Road two tone

Here is what this quilt would look like using just the blue and white for those interested.  Yardage for quilt top would be 2-1/2 yards white, 3-1/8 yards blue.  You might want to bump yardage up a bit to account for paper piecing.

Finished quilt = 65″ x 65″
36 – 9″ blocks

Alison Tudor

Charm Party Baby Quilt + Bonus Pillow

Hi!  I’m Julie from Today I’m sharing a Charm Party baby quilt with matching bonus pillow.  I’m someone who likes to get as much as I can out of my fabric. The half square triangles leftover from the quilt top are perfect for creating a bonus project like a pillow or even a doll quilt.  I would love to see your version if you make one!

2 Charm Packs – Print (Chance of Flowers)
1 Charm Pack – Solid (Bella Solid Snow)
1 1/4 Yards for Backing (Chance of Flowers, Cloud Flower Garden)
1/2 Yard for Binding (Chance of Flowers, Cloud Flower Garden) 

To make the 16″ Pillow Cover you’ll need:
2 Yards of Trim
1 Fat Quarter (Chance of Flowers, Rose Sandy’s Solids)
18″ Zipper
Pillow Form

Gather up your fabrics.  How pretty are these?


  • 64 Prints for Quilt Blocks
  • 17 Prints for Quilt Border
  • 32 Solid Charms

Choose 4 different charms:

Take 2 of those charms and pair with a solid, right sides facing.  Mark a diagonal line.

Stitch along your mark and sew another line 1/2″ over.

Cut between those lines.  Set the smaller half aside.

 Press open and arrange your HST (half square triangle) with the other 2 charms.

Stitch together.

Make 16 ‘mini-blocks’.

Take 4 mini blocks and form a large block.

Make 4 large blocks.

Sew the 4 large blocks together.

Take the 17 Charms we set aside earlier.

1 Charm into quarters (4) 2.5″ squares
16 Charms in half  (32) 2.5″ x 5″ rectangles

Take 8 rectangles and sew end to end creating a border.   Make 4 borders.

Choose 2 of the borders and sew a square onto each end.

Attach the 2 border strips that do not have the square end charms.

Attach the two border strips that have the squares on each end.

You have completed the quilt top!


(OR you can also use the leftover HST’s to make a matching doll quilt)

Pull 25 HST’s leftover from making the quilt top.

We will be trimming these into 3.75″ squares.
If you don’t have a special HST ruler, you can use this method for trimming your squares.

Using Washi or masking tape, mark a line from corner to corner on the 3.75″ line.
(Make sure you are using the squared end of the ruler and one side isn’t an extra 1/2″ wide)

Lay your HST (still folded in half) with the seam line (NOT the raw edge) along the 3.75″ mark.


Press open creating a perfect 3.75″ square.  Repeat for the rest of the HST’s.

Stitch together in 5 rows of 5 using any layout you like.  Quilt if desired.  Trim to 16.75″ square.

Sew decorative trim along the edge with the decorative part facing the center of the pillow.

Lay your zipper facing down, pillow front facing up, and stitch in place.

Cut your fat quarter into a 16.75″ square (or the exact size of your pillow front).

Lay your back piece facing up (edges aligned with the pillow front edges), zipper facing down, and stitch. 

Open your zipper half way.   Lay your pieces right sides facing.  Pin all around the edges and and stitch, being careful not to catch your trim along the way.  Zig-zag or overlock the raw edges to prevent fraying.

Pillow cover is done!

40″ Square Baby Quilt
16″ Pillow Cover

If you make a quilt I would love to see it!
Julie Hirt

Sandbox Quilt

Hi! I’m Krista of Four Robbins Designs and I blog over at Sew What’s Cooking?  I’m so excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you.

This is a fun, quick quilt using the beautiful Weeds collection by Me & My Sister Designs.  My first design used Mixed Bag and it looked so fun I named it Sandbox.  So this one is titled “Flowers in Sandbox”.  I hope you like it!

17 assorted fat quarters – red (medium dark)
6 assorted fat quarters – black (dark)
5 assorted fat quarters – dark grey (medium)
5 assorted fat quarters – light grey (light)
3/4 yards solid – white (very light)

Binding – 1/2 yard
Backing – 4-2/3 yards

Use 1/4 seams through out.  Be sure to cut largest pieces first and smallest last to insure you get all the pieces you need from your fat quarters.

Cut pieces as shown below:

  Following the placement below, you will need to make 10  blocks.

Step One:  Assemble pieces.

Step Two:  Assemble center piece.

Step Three:  Assemble Blocks.

Step Four:  Cut three of the blocks as shown below.

Step Five:  Lay out blocks as shown below.  Assemble by columns and then sew columns together to finish top.  Please note:  My finished quilt is shown upside down from this diagram with the smaller cut on top.

Step 6:  Layer top with batting and backing.  Baste and quilt as desired.
Step 7:  Cut binding fabric into 2.25″ strips.  Join on the diagonal to create double fold binding.  Attach to top of quilt.  Hand sew to the back of quilt. 

Here’s the back of mine.  I had a fat quarter stack and extra solid.  I cut strips of various colors and in various widths.  I started in the center and then started adding strips in a spiral and then finished off with some wide solid.

Here is Sandbox using Mixed Bag by Studio M.  I really love this for a child.  I think it is so cheerful and fun!

And how about the upcoming Social Club by Eric & Julie Comstock?  Doesn’t this look great?  I just might have to make it again!

One Sandbox Quilt 50″ x 80″ perfect for snuggling under.

Thanks for letting me share my quilt with you!  I hope you like it!

Krista Robbins
Sew What’s Cooking?

Turkey Tracks Quilt

Hello everyone! I’m Becky from Patchwork Posse.  Today I am going to show you how to sew up the Turkey Tracks Lap Quilt Top. I love quilts….especially lap sized ones.  They don’t take as long to sew up, are great for gifts, and are handy to have around the house for a quick snuggle and use.

Great for any time or season.  Bright colors and prints would also work great.  Just make sure that your dark and medium fabrics are contrasting enough- so the blocks stand out and don’t get lost. 
This quilt is a bit tricky, but I will show you a quick piecing technique for the flying geese to speed up your construction time.

1/2 yard- dark fabric
2 yard- background
1 1/4 yard- green
3/4 yard- red
various fabric scraps for the piano keys border- 5″ X 2 1/2″ –92

Dark Blocks~
36– 4 1/2″ X 4 1/2″ dark
36– 2 1/2″  X 2 1/2″ background
36– 2 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ background- corners of blocks
Flying Geese Blocks~
36– 5 1/2″ X 5 1/2″ background
108– 3″ X 3″ green
9–  Red 2 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ squares
36– 6 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ background
2– 2″ X 43″
2– 2″ X 47″
Piano Keys:
92– 5″ X 2 1/2″ vairous fabrics
4– 5″ x 5″ corners- green

Dark Block:
Draw a line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the 2 1/2″ square
1)  Place the small background 2 1/2″ square right sides on one corner of the 4 1/2″ dark square
2)  Sew on drawn line, cut off remainder triangle and iron

Flying Geese Blocks:
Draw a line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the 2 1/2″ squares
1)  Place the 2 1/2″ squares at opposite corners of the background square
2)  Sew on either side of the drawn line
3)  Cut on drawn line and iron
4)  Place a 2 1/2″ square in the last corner of the background
5)  Sew on either side of the drawn line
6)  Cut on drawn line and iron
Square these to 4 1/2″ X 2 1/2″

1)  Sew 6 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ on either side of a red 2 1/2″ square
Repeat for a total of 9
Set aside the remainder background pieces- will be used later

Piano Keys:
1)  Sew 23 keys (5″ X 2 1/2′ ) side by side
2)  Repeat for a total of 4
3)  Sew the corner 5″ X 5″ squares to either ends of 2 sets- set aside

Block construction:
1)  Sew single flying geese to the dark block
2)  Sew the section from step 1 to the side of the block
Repeat until you have 36 blocks

Sew the sashing pieces in between two blocks
Then use the layout below to sew 9 blocks total
Sew the 9 blocks together in rows of 3 for the center of the quilt
Sew your first border on the sides of the quilt top
Sew your piano keys border on the sides of the quilt top

56″ X 56″ Quilt
For more quilt tutorials and easy sewing projects– come stop by:
or follow me on Facebook at Patchwork Posse. You can also find me on Pinterest.
Hope you enjoy this quilt!
Becky @

Sew Busy! Organizer

Hello!  I’m Polly Monica from Aunt Polly’s Porch!  I’m so happy to be posting here today at the always awesome Moda Bake Shop!  I fell sewwww in LOVE with Moda’s Sewing Box collection and knew it would make some fun things for organizing any sewing room!  I hope you think so, too!  Let’s get busy making these eight sewing projects which include a sewing machine cover, a sewing machine mat, a versatile sewing caddy for your ironing board or armchair, a tub cover, a tie on pin cushion, a chatelaine, a square pin cushion and needle book.

1 Sewing Box charm pack

Sewing Box Charm Pack by Gina Martin for Moda
½ yard coordinating print # 1 (notions print white)

FABRIC SEWING BOX Sewing Notions Main Print Moda
½ yard coordinating print # 2 (tape measure multi)

Sewing Box - Gina Martin - Moda
½ yard coordinating fabric #3 (pins lime)

Sewing Box - Gina Martin - Moda
1 yard coordinating print #4 (buttons blue)

Sewing Box, Moda Fabric, Gina Martin, Buttons, 1/2 Yard
1.5 yards fusible fleece

3.5 yards Jumbo rick rack
Assorted colors and sizes of buttons

All seam allowances are ¼” unless directed differently.
RST = right sides together
RSO = right sides out
WOF = width of fabric (selvage to selvage)
Sewing Machine Cover Instruction

My sewing machine sits down in a Horne sewing table and it’s measurements are- 16” from right to left, 8 ½” from top of machine to tabletop, and 7 ½” deep looking at the machine from the side. (If your machine sits on top of a table, the height will be taller than mine!) You will need to measure your machine and adjust the measurements as necessary.
Take charm pack and cut all pieces in half, giving you two stacks of 42 pieces – 2 ½” by 5” rectangles.


Set one stack aside, now cut the other stack in half, giving you two stacks of 42 pieces – 2 ½” by 2 ½” squares.


Set one stack aside, take remaining stack of 2 ½” squares and select 16 for each side of the cover.
Lay them out in two rows of eight squares each (16 for each side).
From the leftover squares, select 4 for a four patch that will be made into a square pin cushion
And select 5 squares to be sewn into a row for a long skinny pin cushion.


Sew the two rows of squares for one side together- press seams in one direction on the first row and in the opposite direction for the second row so that the seams will nestle together when joined. The resulting long seam can be pressed to one side or open.


For the center panel on the cover, look at your fabric # 1. If the printed design is directional, like mine was, and you want it to be right side up on both sides of the cover, then you will cut two pieces that are 8 ¾” by 16 ½”. With RST, with the top of the design on BOTH pieces at the top, sew that 16 ½” long seam.


Now your design should be right side up on both sides of that center seam. If your print is NOT directional then you need no center seam and can cut one piece 17” by 16 ½”.
Sew one pieced set on each 16 ½” end. Press those seams toward the center panel.

Cut a piece of fusible fleece and your fabric # 2 for the batting / backing 18 ½” by 27”. Fuse the fleece onto the wrong side of either front or backing. With RSO, pin the sandwich and quilt as desired. I just did an all-over meander design.


If you wish to add rick rack or other trim, do it now! Some folks just stitch down the center of rick rack, which is fine with the narrow ones, but for the jumbo size, I like to sew close to the edge, down each side. Then trim off excess batting/backing.


For the ties, cut one 2 ½” by WOF strip of your fabric #3. Press it in half lengthwise.


Then open it up and fold the two long raw edges into the center fold and press again.


Topstitch closely down each long edge.


Trim off selvage ends, cut it into 4 equal pieces. Lay the cover over your machine and decide where you want the ties to go


and baste them onto the backing side with the raw end edge even with the side of the cover.


For the binding, measure the perimeter of your cover and add 8”. Bind the edges your way! Everybody has their own way of binding . I cut my strips 2 ½” by WOF. I join the strips with a diagonal seam, press in half lengthwise, and sew onto the front of the quilt with a SCANT 3/8” seam allowance, flip binding over the seam to the back and hand sew it down. But, the binding can be done your own way!


If you wish to add a handle at the top of the cover, cut two 2 ¾ ” by 7 ¼”pieces of your fabric #2. Cut one piece of fusible fleece 2 ¾” by 7 ¼”, and fuse onto the wrong side of one fabric piece. If you wish to add rick rack or trim on the handle, sew it onto that piece now.


I wanted my handle to be a bit more narrow at the ends, so I folded the pieces in half and cut off the corners- see pix below.


With RST, sew a ¼” seam all around the handle edges but leave an opening at least 2” to turn it through!
Turn the handle RSO through that opening and hand sew the opening closed. Topstitch 3/8” inch from all edges.

Measure the cover to find the center and mark it with a pin. Center the handle over that center, but build in a gap!


Sew through all layers, attaching the handle to the cover at each end.


I LOVE adding buttons to projects and especially stacking different sized buttons!!


Add them now wherever you want!! You could even add them down the middle of the rick rack, too!!
All done! Now stand back and admire your creation!!


Small Square and Tie-On Pin Cushions

Remember that fourpatch and row of five squares you selected and set aside back when you were picking out the squares for your cover front and back?


If you didn’t sew them together, do it now! Then lay them RST on top of a scrap of your fabric #1 which will be your backing, and cut around them.


Sew around all sides of the fourpatch, leaving a small opening on one side to turn it through.
Clip the seam allowance diagonally across the corners, but not too close!
This will reduce the bulk there and make those corner points look perfect!


Turn it RSO, fill it with your choice of polyfil or crushed walnut filler. I like the latter for pin cushions!!


I get it at the local pet shop- it’s cheap and is actually made for the bottom of small pet cages.
I save my twill tape ties from all Moda jelly rolls and bundles, so I cut my ties for the Tie-On pin cushion from one of those ties. If you don’t have any, you can make ties like the ones you made for the cover from fabric scraps or use ribbon you have in your stash. To determine how long to cut your ties, measure your machine as shown below.


Add 6” to that measurement. My machine measured 24” + 6” = 30”. So I cut a piece of the Moda twill tape 30” then cut that in half. Insert one end of each tie between the long skinny 5 patch and its backing.


Then sew all around the edges, but remember to leave a small opening to turn it through.


Turn it RSO through that opening, pulling out the ties, too. Fill both pin cushions al full as you like. On the skinny one, first fill it only partially up to the second seam line. Stitch through all layers at that seam between the second and third square to facilitate it fitting snugly around the corner on your machine, then fill it the rest of the way.


Sew the openings closed with tiny stitches.


Add stacked buttons in the center of the four patch pin cushion and at the sewn down seam on the tie-on pin cushion.


Voila!! Done!! Yaaaay!!


Tie the Skinny pin cushion onto your machine!! Add pins!

Sewing Machine Mat

Cut a 16 ½” by 16 ½” piece of your fabric #4. Grab your stack of 2 ½” by 5” charm pack pieces, and select 8 pieces. Sew them together along the 5” sides. Press the seams open. Now cut this strip in half lengthwise giving you two strips that are 2 ½” by 16 ½”.


Sew one strip on each side of the fabric square you cut above.


Select 10 more strips, sew them together as described above, press seams open and cut in half. Sew one of the strips across the back of the piece. Set the other strip aside for now.


Now, select 10 more strips for the tall pocket layer, sew them together as above, press seams open, then lay that piece on top of your fabric # 4, and cut a lining strip that exact same size. With RST, sew down one long side. Turn RSO, press and top stitch 3/8” from seam edge.


Lay this pocket strip across the bottom of the mat with raw edges even all around and pin, then baste these raw edges together.


Now, stitch through all layers wherever you want to create individual pockets. Make sure to backstitch at the top edge of each pocket seam.


I made all my pockets the same size by stitching through all layers on every other seam line.


Next, take the half sized strip you set aside above that has 10 squares and cut out a lining for it from your fabric #4, exactly as you did it above. With RST, sew across the top edge, turn it RSO, press and top stitch it 3/8” from edge.


Lay it over the tall pocket strip on the lower edge of the mat, creating a second row of smaller pockets.
Baste the raw edges together on sides and bottom. Then sew through all layers again at seams to create the pockets.


In the photo above, the orange pins show where the tall pockets were stitched and the purple pins show where I chose to sew my smaller pockets. You can sew yours wherever you want!
Use this top to cut a piece of fusible fleece the same size. Iron it onto the wrong side of the finished top. Cut the backing from your fabric #4 just a bit bigger all around than the top. Pin the sandwich and quilt as desired, but don’t quilt through the pockets!!


If you want to add rickrack or trim, sew it on now!!
Trim the edges even and bind as desired using your fabric #3!


Hand sew the binding to the back of the mat! Taadaa!!
Done!! YAY!! Now set your machine on it and fill up those awesome pockets!!

Versatile Caddy

Believe it or not, you still have some leftover 2 ½ strips from your charm pack, and you have scraps from your yardage we’ve been using, which you can cut into a few more 2 ½” by 5” strips if you want more variety!
Select 3 strips for pockets on one end of the caddy and 4 strips for the thread catcher on the other end of the caddy. Sew them together, cut a piece of fusible fleece for the four strip set, and fuse it on the back. Lay them both on your fabric #4, and cut a matching lining piece for each.


With RST, sew one long side together on both, turn both RSO, press seams and topstitch 3/8” from seam edge. On the four strip piece with the fleece inside, quilt it as desired.


Set both aside for the moment!
Cut 2 pieces 6 ½” by 18” from fabric # 4, and one piece the same size from fusible fleece.


Fuse the fleece on the wrong side of one piece. Layer RSO, then quilt as desired, creating the caddy base.


Align the three strip piece at one end and baste the raw edges on all three sides.


Then stitch through all layers on the 2 seam lines to create 3 pockets. Backstitch at the top of each pocket seam.


Align then baste the SIDES of the four strip set at the other end of the caddy base. Then pin the center bottom of the four strip piece to the center of the bottom of the caddy base and then make two small pleats as you pin the rest of the bottom edge of the four strip piece to fit the base.


Then baste across the bottom edge.


If you wish to add rickrack or trim, add it now!


Trim edges even and bind with fabric #3. Set aside.
Select 6 leftover 2 ½” by 5” strips for the caddy pin cushion.
Cut them in half creating 12 squares 2 ½” by 2 ½”.


Arrange them in two groups of 6 and sew each group together, leaving a small opening in the center seam of one group to use to turn it through later.


Place the two pieces RST, and using a ruler and pen, draw a line 1” in from each corner point and trim those corners off.


Now, sew all around the edges. Turn it RSO through the opening in the bottom seam.


Fill the pin cushion with polyfil or crushed walnuts and handstitch the opening closed.


I cut an 8” piece of rickrack and hand stitched/gathered one long edge and drew the thread up to create a ruffled flower.


I hand stitched it to the center of the pin cushion and added some stacked buttons, as well.


You can embellish your pin cushion as desired! Center the pin cushion in the middle of the caddy and hand stitch it through the back side to the caddy. YESSSSSSSS! All done!!


Now you can use it on the end of your ironing board and on an armchair in front of the TV!!

Tub Cover

I wanted a tub to sit on my sewing table for sewing tools and materials. I had a large plastic 16 ounce Cool Whip tub container that was the right size! The circumference was 18” and the height was 5”.


Using the stack of leftover 2 ½” by 2 ½” square charm pack pieces, select 20 pieces and arrange and sew them together in two rows of ten squares.


If you want to add rickrack or trim, do it now!! I added rickrack down the center seam line.
Cut and fuse a matching piece of fleece to the back of it, then quilt it as desired. I grid-quilted it.


Cut a matching piece of fabric #4 for the lining, but make one end about an inch longer. Also, just a note here that for backings and lining and even batting/fleece, you can piece smaller scraps together when needed. I save small pieces of batting and connect them with fusible batting tape.


You will see this tape on the back of this tub cover!


Another tip is to trim off corners of seam allowance at points, as shown in photo below, to make them turn RSO better.


Sew two long sides and one short end seams- leaving open the short end with the longer lining piece.
Turn the cover RSO, topstitch 3/8” from the edges and fold up the longer lining end to enclose the raw edges and stitch it closed.


Pin the cover TIGHTLY around the tub, then slide it off. Sew it closed on the topstitch line of the finished end. I added a stack of buttons for embellishment, then slid it back onto the tub.


Another little project complete!! Yahoo!!

Sewing Chatelaine

Line up 18 to 22 of your leftover 2 ½” squares in a long row. (Don’t forget you have some yardage scraps you can cut into 2 ½” squares to supplement your leftovers and provide a bit more variety.)


Sew them together, press the seams open then press it in half lengthwise


and use the same technique you used above to create the sewing machine cover ties to make a long topstitched piece.


Fold in one short raw edged end as you topstitch it, and slip in a 2” loop created from a bit of stash ribbon or thinner rick rack as I did.


Knot the other raw edged end.


Set aside for now. Select a green 2 ½” square, fold it in half then in half again and cut into a petal shape using pinking shears if you have them,


if not, just use regular scissors. Cut carefully from between two petals just to the center of the piece. Set aside for the moment.


Select 8 more 2 ½” squares and sew them into four patches. Lay them RST, and trim off the bottom corners creating a triangular shape with the narrow end at the bottom. This will become your strawberry shaped pin cushion. Sew all around leaving the top open. Using needle and doubled thread, sew a gathering stitch around the open top edge.


Turn RSO, and stuff with polyfil. Push the knotted end of the finished strip down into the polyfil and draw up the thread- gathering the raw edge tightly inside around the strip. Secure it with stitches and a secure hidden knot.


Wrap the leaf piece around the top of the strawberry and hand stitch it there.


Add some pins and needles, if desired!!


Sew on a small button a few inches in from the loop at the other end, so you can secure your small scissors there!! Well done! Another part of the set is complete!! You can wear your chatelaine around your neck while doing hand sewing in your favorite chair in front of the TV and never lose your scissors between the cushions again!!


After all this, I still had a few leftover 2 ½” by 5” strips, and I cut two more from yardage scraps.
Sew the four strips together. Cut and fuse a matching piece of fleece to the wrong side. Quilt as desired. Add trim or rickrack if you desire. Cut a 4” piece of stash ribbon or thin rickrack, fold into a loop and baste on the center of the back.


Cut a matching piece of fabric #4, or other yardage scrap, for the lining. With RST, sew around the edges leaving a small opening for turning.


Turn it RSO, hand sew the opening closed then topstitch around all edges.


Cut three 4” by 6 ¾” pieces of scrap batting .
Draw a line down the center with a heat erasable pen.


Line up this drawn line with the center seam of the cover.


Carefully flip it over and sew down the center seam from the cover side and through all thicknesses.


Erase the drawn line on the batting with a hot iron. Fold the book on that center seam line.
Add a button or two on the front allowing it to be secured with the loop from the back!


Add some needles inside and that’s it! You have completed the set of eight projects in this pattern collection!!


Pat yourself on the back and enjoy using your new sewing room creations!!



Eight sewing room essentials including a Sewing machine cover, a square pin cushion, a tie on pin cushion, a versatile caddy, a sewing machine mat, a tub cover, a chatelaine, and a needle book!
Thanks ever so much for trying out these projects! You may have spotted my sweet Westie – Yogi, in some of the photos!


Come visit us soon at my blog-!!

We’d love to have you come and visit!!
Polly Monica

Window Box Flower Quilt

I hope you are having a great day.  My name is Kris from and I am pleased to share this quilt with you today.  At my house, the daffodils are blooming and the tulips are just around the corner.  I wanted to make a flower quilt using a hexi design – and that is how this quilt came to be.   I was surprised at how easy it was to use a half hexi template to make this quilt.  I loved the colors in Chance of Flowers by Sandy Gervais and hope the great colors brighten your day as you make this quilt.  This makes it easy to use with a charm pack or with jelly roll left overs or as a stash buster.

  • 1 charm pack Chance of Flowers
  • 1/8 yard of 4 browns for the window box. I used the Moda Marble collection: Coffee, Bark, Chestnut, and Dark Saddle
  • 2/3 yard Bella Solids Snow Fabric
  • 1/3 yard Cloud Rain Border Fabric
  • 1/3 yard Rose Binding Fabric
  • 1 1/2 yard Leaf Backing Fabric
  • Go!Hexagon 4 1/2″ sides ruler/template (item number 55437)

** All sewing will be done with a 1/4 inch seam.

1.  Sort your charm pack into a couple of different piles.

  • Pick two green charms to be your stems of your flowers.

  • Next, pick 3 solid or mostly solids to be the centers of your flowers
  • Finally, create 3 sets of 6 charms to be the outsides of your flowers.
2.  Cut each of your charms (except for the green stem’s) in half giving you 2.5 x 5 inch rectangles.  (you will have a total of 42 rectangles)
3.  Use your half hexi template and cut the 42 rectangles into half hexis.  Make sure to cut the notches on the ends – this will help when you line them up to sew.
4.  Next you will want to cut 9 strips of 2.5″x WOF from the Bella Solid Snow material.  Using your half hexi template, cut 88 white half hexis.
5.  Take the green charms for your stems and cut 7 rectangles as 1.5″ x 2.5″ stem pieces.
6.  Next you are going to want to lay out your flowers.  To do this you will want to start with one of your center half hexis and pair it with the matching half hexi.  Then, add 6 additional pairs of hexis to complete the flower. Continue this with the remaining two flowers and connect them with white as shown in the picture below.  Place the middle flower a hexi lower that than ones on the two sides.  
7.  Once you have your flowers like you want, fill in with the rest of the white hexis. Place a row of white on the top and on the bottom and on each end of the flowers like in the picture below.  The ends will be jagged and that is correct.  We will trim them later.
8.  We are going to now sew the stems on to the white hexi’s.   
  • Take the seven half hexis under the flowers for your stems. With each one, cut off 1″ from the top left edge. Cut 1/2 inch off the other side. 

  • Insert the stem piece (2.5″ x1.5″ green) using 1/4 inch seams between each side of the half hexi, Press your seams as you go.  Do this for the remaining 6 stem pieces. When you have completed this place the stem half hexis back onto your flower layout.

9.  Now that you have your layout complete (congratulations!) Let’s talk about how to get ready to sew the rows. If you have a preferred approach, use that. I’m going to describe the approach that I’ve settled on for this type of quilt. 
  • Moving from left to right, take the first hexi and place it on top of the next hexi.  Making sure that you always place the next hexi on the bottom of your pile.  You will end up with 10 rows of 13 hexis. The top hexi is the left most piece.

  • I label each row with a sticky note so that I can keep the rows in the correct order.

  • I chain piece 5 rows at a time.  I have found that keeping track of the row I am on and which is the left hand edge piece can be tough.  My trick is to put a straight pin in the left hexi of each row. The vertical placement of the pin indicates row # (the highest pin is row #1).   I have circled the pins in the photo below so you can see my trick.

10.  You are ready to start sewing your rows.  See the picture below to see how to line up your hexis.
  • Make sure to press your seams after each hexi.  You will sew the hexis together until you have sewn all 13 hexis together.  This is a picture of that it will look like as you are sewing part way along the row.

11.  Once you have sewn all your rows together, lay it back out and admire your work!  You are amazing! Feel free to enjoy a cold or hot beverage of your choosing at this point.

Now you will sew all your rows together. Pressing your seams as you go. Don’t you love it!
12.  Now that the rows are all sewn together you will want to trim the edges.  Use a ruler and trim off the edge to form a straight edge.
13.  Next step is to create your window box.  I loved using different browns to make more of weathered look to the window box.  If you don’t want the same weathered look, feel free to just use one piece of brown material (8.5″x 44.5″).   
To create the weathered window box look you will want to cut from each of your brown colors so that in total you will have:  
  • 10 rectangles of 2.5″x 8.5″  (3 each from 2 browns and 2 each from 2 browns)
  • 24 rectangles of 2.5″ x 4.5″  (6 from each brown)
  • Hold aside 4 of your 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles (one of each color) for later.  
  • Select different color combinations from the smaller rectangles and sew them together giving you 10 rectangles of 2.5″ x 8.5″.
  • Combine each 2.5″x 8.5″ mixed color rectangle with a solid 2.5″ x 8.5″ rectangle resulting in 10 larger 4.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles.

The final 4 rectangles which are 2.5″ x 4.5″ should be combined to make 2 blocks of 2.5″ x 4.5″ (see the right end blocks in the picture below)
Arrange the blocks as in the picture below. I flipped each alternating 8.5″ block to give it more contrast.  Feel free to customize. When you are happy with the look sew the blocks together into one large window box which will be 8.5″ x 44.5″
14.  Sew the flowers to the window block making sure that the window box is adjoining the flower stems.  
15.  To add the border or window frame to the flowers and window box you will need to:
  • Cut 4 strips 3.5″ X WOF

  • Cut 2 rectangles 30″ x 3.5″.  Using the extra from those WOF you will sew them on to your 2 strips of 3.5″ x WOF to create 2 rectangles which are 51″ x 3.5″.
  • Sew the 30″ x 3.5″ strips to the ends of your flower and window box.  
  • Sew the 51″x 3.5″ strips to the top and bottom of the your flower and window box.

16.  Add batting and backing to your quilt top and start adding texture.  Have fun!

  • I chose to quilt pebbles in the centers of the flowers and swoops in the outside flowers.

  • I tried to create wood grain on the window box.

17.  Bind your quilt and then wash it to get all the crinkly goodness of a quilt.
Hope your quilt helps to brighten your day!  It sure brings spring in from the outside…
…into my sewing room wall.

Happy sewing!   
Finished size: 48″x 32″ (once washed and shrinkage happens)
You could make a bed runner by adding a couple more flowers to each side if you wanted to expand it.
Kris Allen

All Good Gifts Quilt

Hello.  Cindy Sharp from Tops to Treasures here again.  I am excited about this quilt for a number of reasons, but mostly because its inspiration stemmed from the loving heart of my oldest son.  Each step along the way was marked by the love of someone offering a good gift.

Good gift #1:  Each person my son meets becomes a candidate for a quilt from mom. Really, he  has no qualms about asking me to make one.  I’ve made them for coaches, room mates, and class fund raisers. This time he asked me to make one for a pregnant friend.

Good gift #2:  I was visiting with the ladies in the sample room at Moda and they suggested this line of fabric. “Mixed Bag” by Studio M is fun and funky, AND comes in brushed cotton….perfect for a snuggly baby quilt. Chelair tossed me a fat quarter stack and said “Send us the pattern when it is done!”

Good gift #3:  I started Tops to Treasures in 2006 as a long arm quilting business.  It pays for my quilty habit and helps my boys with college expenses.  Sometimes I let my friends come and use the machine for the cost of the materials.  (Honestly I love having company during the day.)  Jeanne was not satisfied with that arrangement.  Her solution….minion labor!! Jeanne volunteered to trade piecing for long arm time.  I’ve seen her piecing…not going to turn that offer down.  (Thank you my friend for piecing this quilt for me.)

So it went….one good gift leading to another.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

The horrible truth is that I am a bit of an OCDC geek.  I love things to be orderly and in order.  It makes me happy to see books arranged by subject and author on my shelf, earrings neatly paired in little cubbies, my Lego blocks sorted by size and color, directions that are explicit and precise, you get where I’m going.

The opportunity to make a rainbow quilt makes me “Happy, happy, happy!”  just like the fabrics that inspired my design, Mixed Bag by Studio M. 

All Good Gifts is a simple quilt made of 42, 8″ x 8″ finished blocks, set in a lattice of 2″ sashing with corner stones.  The construction is straight forward and requires no special tools, or skills.  The challenge lies in the selection and placement of color.  With Roy G. Biv helping us, this should not be a problem.

The most challenging aspect of this quilt is the placement of colors.  The picture below assigns a number to each diagonal row.  All of the blocks in each row are identical.  Use these row numbers and reference the following chart to determine how much fabric you need.

There is enough fabric in a fat quarter stack to make the blocks of this quilt; however, you need to purchase an extra fat quarter for the frame in each row that has more than 5 blocks. (Specifically, rows 1 and 2.  They each have 6 blocks.)

In my quilt I chose to repeat the frame fabric used in row 1 (a long row) in rows 4, 9, and 12.  This required additional yardage as well. 

When making your fabric selections the following information is helpful:

  • There are 12 diagonal rows –
    • 12 different colors for centers – choose bright or deep tones.
      • You can repeat colors like I did – it uses less fabric or choose 12 different ones….just keep them in rainbow order. That is where my friend Mr. Roy G. Biv comes in. (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.)  I put red in the middle and worked out from both sides to blue.
      • You can cut 16 centers from one fat quarter
    • 12 different colors for frames – choose prints that help to blend from one center color to the next. 
      • I repeated a the multi on white.  Because it has most of the colors in it, transition is natural.  You don’t have to do that…I was just being lazy. 
      • You can cut  5 sets of frame pieces from one fat quarter
      • Rows 1 & 2 require 1/4 yard extra to cut all of the frame pieces.

Yardage Required
What I used

FQ Stack *
*additional yardage needed for rows with more than 5 blocks
Mixed Bag by Studio M


1/4 yd (row 1)
1/4 yd (row 2)
1/4 yd for duplicate frames

(rows 9, 12)


Setting Squares
½ yd
1 3/4 yds
1 ½ yds
1 yd
5 1/4 yds

12 sandwich sized zip lock baggies

One very happy, 76″ x 86″ rainbow quilt to snuggle under or gift to someone you love.

Cutting Directions:

Before you begin cutting, it may be helpful to create a “swatch page” for your project.   I’ve created a page for you, it lists all of the pieces you need to cut (just like the cutting chart) plus it has a column for swatches.  Print this file Swatch Page with my compliments.  In the column headed “SWATCH” cut and paste a small sample of the fabrics you want to use for that row.  It will help keep everything organized – (read – this is so you know what you are doing when you finally get back to cutting out the project after the finishing 101 things that draw you away from your favorite hobby) 

  • Blocks
    • Cut the pieces for the blocks in each row as outlined in the chart below.
    • I highly recommend that you keep your pieces segregated in zip lock baggies.  One baggie for each row.
    • Centers –
      • Cutting a 4 1/2″ x 18″ strip from a fat quarter will yield 4, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ squares
      • For rows with more than 4 blocks, cut 2, 4 1/2″ x 18″ strips.
    • Frames –
      • Cutting a 2 1/2″ x 18″ strip from a fat quarter will yield
        • 2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for top and bottom OR
        • 4, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for sides
      • For 5 complete frames
        • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 18″ strips from a fat quarter
        • Sub-cut 3 strips into4, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each, for a total of 12rectangles.  (You will have two extra)
        • Sub-cut 5 strips into 2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles for a total of 10 rectangles.
# of Blocks
4 ½” x 4 ½”
8 ½” x 2 ½”
 Top & Bottom
4 ½” x 2 ½”
Frame Sides


  • Setting Squares
    • 56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares
      • Cut 4, 2 1/2″ x width of fabric (wof) strips
      • Sub-cut 3 strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares each for a total of 48 squares
      • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares from the remaining strip to complete 56.
  • Sashing
    • 97, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles
      • Cut 7, 8 1/2″ x wof strips
      • Sub-cut 6, strips into 16, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles each for a total of 96 rectangles
      • Cut 1, 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangle from the remaining strip to complete 97.
  • Border
    • Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips
  • Binding
    • Cut 8, 2 1/2″ x wof strips

Break Time!

I sure hope that was better than I am thinking it is.  Right now it is “clear as mud” even to me.  I suspect I am tired from all of that cutting….and maybe you are too.

Clear as mud

Step away from the project.  Have some fun!  Go for a walk.  Clear your head.  That is where I am headed.
Thank you God!  That’s better.  I’ve reread the directions….I think it is the best that I can do.  If, however, you still have trouble understanding what you need to do feel free to contact me at  I am more than happy to help.

Sewing Directions:

  •  Block – the goal is 42, 8″ x 8″ finished blocks

    •  Use the “Swatch Page” to remind yourself how many of each color to make.
    • To make one block –
      • Gather
        • 1, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ center square
        • 2, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ top & bottom rectangles
        • 2, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ edge rectangles

      •  Sew 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ side rectangle to opposite sides of the 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ center square.
      • Iron seam allowance towards the center square
      • Sew 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ top/bottom rectangle to long edges of pieced unit.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the top/bottom rectangles.
      • Trim to 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
    • Repeat process 41 times to complete 42 blocks needed for project.
  •  Sashing
    • Gather
      • 97, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″  sashing rectangles
      • 56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting squares
      • 42, 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ blocks
    • Block Rows
      • Gather
        • 49, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles
        • 42, 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ blocks
      • Sort your blocks into 7 groups of 6 blocks each, one group for each horizontal row of the quilt.
      • Using the Swatch Page row numbers as a reference for color placement (#s designating the diagonal rows in the quilt) your horizontal rows (letters designating) should contain the following blocks:
        • A – 1, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12
        • B – 2, 1, 8, 9, 10, 11
        • C – 3, 2, 1, 8, 9, 10
        • D – 4, 3, 2, 1, 8, 9
        • E – 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 8
        • F – 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
        • G – 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2
      • Add 7, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles to each pile.
      • Being careful to keep the blocks in the right order, sew 1 sashing rectangle between each block in the row.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the blocks.
    • Sashing Rows
      • Gather
        • 56, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting squares
        • 48, 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangles
      • Sew 48 sets of 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ setting square, + 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sashing rectangle (they will look like matchsticks)
      • Iron seam allowances towards the setting square
      • Sew sets together to make 8 rows of 6 matchsticks each, tail to head.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the setting squares.
      • Sew 1 setting square to the stick end of each row.
      • Iron seam allowances towards the setting squares.
    • Top
      • Gather
        • 8, sashing rows
        • 7, block rows
      • Sew rows together as illustrated in the diagrams.
  • Border
    • Gather
      • Cut 8, 5″ x wof strips
    • Sew 4 sets of 2 strips each together, short edge to short edge.
    • Irons seam allowances open
    • Sew 1 set to each long edge of top.
    • Iron seam allowances towards the border
    • Trim excess
    • Sew 1 set to each short edge of top
    • Iron seam allowances towards the border
    • Trim excess
  • Finish – layer and quilt as desired!
    • I quilted mine in “Going in Circles” by Anne Bright. 
    • I used “Pearl” thread by Signature on the top of my quilt
    • I used “Cleopatra” thread by King Tut/Superior for the back and for the embroidered label.
I would love to see your quilt!  Send me a picture of it when you are done and/or feel free to add it to my Tops to Treasures group on Flickr.

Cindy Sharp