Hexa-Bunting



Hi everyone! This is Anna from HootnHaller. I am very excited to share my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial with you today. This is a tutorial for a bunting that is a great decoration for a party, special event, or to spruce up any room. If you have been nervous to try the honeycomb precuts in the past, I hope you try out this project that uses these fun fabric cuts!


1 Moda Honeycomb precut (Honeysweet by Fig Tree & Co.)
1/2 yard coordinating fabric



MAKING THE HEXAGONS
1. Sort your hexagons into pairs. Stack the pairs right sides together.

2. Use the template that comes with your precuts to mark dots on one of the hexagons in each of your pairs. (If you have never used the honeycombs before you are in for a treat! This template is amazing and makes sewing the quarter-inch seam soooooo much easier!)

3. Connect the dots that you drew using the template as a straight edge. You can leave one side without a line. These lines show you where to stitch your seams.

4. Follow the lines to sew a quarter-inch seam allowance along five of the sides.

5. Trim off the corners of each of your sewn-together pairs.

6. Turn each unit inside out. You may need to use a turning tool to get the points to pop out. Give your unit a good press.

7. Bring the units back to your machine. Using a coordinating thread, topstitch a quarter-inch from each edge.  

MAKING BIAS TAPE 
1. Cut one 20″ square from your fabric.

2. Using your rotary cutter, cut down the diagonal of the square. I used two rulers to reach the entire length, but you can use one ruler and move it for a second cut.

3. Sew the two triangles together by lining up the straight sides as shown below.

4. Cut 2″ strips along the bias, or the diagonal line you have created with the fabric.

5. Pin and sew the strips together.

6. Fold the bias strip in half and press.

7. Open the fabric up on the fold and fold each side towards the center crease. Press.

8. Fold the strip in half so that no raw edges are showing. Press. You have just created double-fold bias tape!!

ASSEMBLING THE BUNTING
1. Lay the hexagons out in an order that is pleasing to you.

2. Pin the hexagons into the center of the bias tape. Make sure to leave at least 10″ of bias tape before you place your first hexagon. Leave 3-5″ between each hexagon. Once you start to pin the hexagons you may decide to leave a larger or smaller gap – it depends on how you want your finished bunting to look.

3. Sew about 1/8″ from the edge of the tape. This will keep the bias tape closed and will secure the hexagons.

You will have one completed hexa-bunting! Enjoy!!

 Anna Haller
{www.hootnhaller.blogspot.com}

Bake Shop Basics: Turned-Edge Machine Applique


Welcome to Bake Shop Basics on turned edge applique!

I count myself among those who’d like to give a big hug, and maybe even a NOBEL PRIZE, to the person who invented fusible webbing! Fusible webbing has given us the ability to quickly embellish quilts, clothing, and innumerable other objects. In her Sept. 16th Bake Shop post, Angela Yosten explained the basics of machine applique using fusible webbing.


But some projects simply beg for turned-edge applique, which creates a smooth edge, and doesn’t reveal the underlying seams that you see with fused applique.

So. . .if you’re not in a hurry, and you prefer the tidier look of turned-edge applique, try the technique that follows. It’s the method I prefer (when it’s feasible) for turning the edges under and then macine appliqueing. The size and complexity of the applique element are what determine whether this technique is feasible or not.

I’m currently working on a pattern for party goods, using Moda’s “Honeysweet” fabric by Fig Tree. The placemats have a circle appliqued to the center. Here are the simple steps for preparing it for applique.

Trace the design–in this case an 8″ circle–onto lightweight SEW-IN (not fusible) interfacing. Use an air-erase marker or trace lightly with a pencil. As you see in the picture, I found a lid that is 8″ in diameter and used it as a template. Cut the interfacing about 1/2″ from the traced line. Pin the interfacing, marked side up, to the right (top) side of your fabric, pointing the pins toward the outside of the circle. This will cause it to lay flatter than if you pin it from the outside edge toward the center.


Sew on the drawn line with thread that matches the circle fabric, with the stitch length set where you usually have it set for piecing (2.5 on my machine). Sew all the way around the drawn line.

If you have pinking shears, use them to trim the seam allowance to about 1/8″. I LOVE using pinking shears to “clip” curves in this way. If you don’t have access to pinks,  carefully clip it every 1/4″ almost to the seam line.


Make a clip in the middle of the interfacing, being careful not to cut the circle fabric. Gently–so as not to tear the interfacing–turn the circle right side out. Use a Purple Thang or a plasticware knife to push the seam to the edges of the circle. Iron the edges using a pressing sheet to protect your iron and to prevent the interfacing from distorting.


With the fabric side up, press the circle flat, being sure the interfacing isn’t showing at the edges. Pin it in place on the background fabric, pinning toward the outside edge. 


In Angela’s blog post, she showed a variety of fund and pretty decorative stitches that can be used with fused OR turned-edge applique. For invisible machine applique there are a couple different types of stitches usually recommended. They’re shown in the picture below. One is a narrow, long zizag stitch and the other a blind stitch. The zigzag is my personal favorite, but I encourage you to experiment with each of them. With either, you should use clear polyester or lightweight thread that matches your applique fabric. 

The inside point of the zigzag stitch should pierce the applique piece and the background, with the outer point piercing only the background fabric. The blind stitch is made up of a few straight stitches followed by a single zigzag. The straight stitches pierce only the background.

Here’s a close-up of the circle appliqued to the placemat with a narrow, long zigzag stitch.
Perhaps you’re wondering if this method is limited to extremely simple shapes, and, happily, the answer is no. Here’s a little bird that’s going to be part of the party goods pattern.

 After turning the edges under using the method described above, I simply (and I DO MEAN simply!) straight-stitched near her edge with the same thread I planned to use for quilting. 
The example shown uses Moda’s “Daydream” fabric by Kate Spain.


Here are a few more things to consider for turned-edge applique:
  • You’re free to cut away the extra fabric and interfacing under the appliqued piece.
  • Substitute FabriSolvy for the interfacing, and rinse it away after appliqueing your design to the background. The art quilt in the top photo was done this way.
  • Decorative stitches may be used instead of hidden ones.
  • If the applique design has a direction (as with the little bird), the way it points as you look at the interfacing is the direction it will point after sewing. So if desired, you can reverse the direction by simply flipping the interfacing before sewing, since the drawn line will be visible on either side of the interfacing.
  • The applique piece doesn’t have to be closed on all sides. In fact, this technique is even easier if at least one edge of the design is open (where it will be overlapped by another piece or where it lays at the quilt edge), as was the case with the quilt in the top photo.
  • If you’re having trouble getting the edge to press nicely, cut a piece of heat-resistant template plastic a “hair” smaller than the shape, insert it through the slit in the interfacing and press. Remove the template and press again.
  • Forgive me for stating the obvious, but this method works nicely for hand-applique projects, too!

May your projects be many and your frustrations few,


Kara Peterson

Down On The Farm Quilt


Here in Canada we LOVE our red and white and especially love using this colour combo “Down on the Farm.”  When I saw these beautiful reds, tans and cream tones I just knew what type of design to focus on – a good ole’ barn raising and images from my Past, Present, and Future.  I hope everyone has as much fun with this quilt as I did . . . remember to customize it however you like to make it a “one-of-a-kind” quilt that creates memories for you.

1 – “Midwinter Reds” layer cake by Minick and Simpson
First and Third borders: 3/4 yard
Second border: 1/3 yard
Inserted Flap (Flange) border: 1/4 yard (optional)
1/2 yard background fabric for paper-pieced blocks
1/2 yard for centre squares and binding fabric
1 1/2 yards of backing fabric
46” x 54” batting

Scraps of embroidery thread to stitch your hometown name on the elevator


PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING THIS PROJECT.

The blocks shown above are for your reference during the construction process.  If you are using a planned colour placement for your blocks you could cut your strips and label them as to the placement number as shown in the block above on the right.  If you are making your block scrappy, just be sure to follow the light side for your lights and the dark side for your darks.
I have designed the pattern so that the upper farm scene can be adjusted to fit your measurements, so please do not stress if your blocks are a slightly different size!
Now it’s time to open up that lovely layer cake and make a few decisions.
Do a quick flip through all those gorgeous prints and pull out any of the duplicate ones and set them aside.
Now have a look at your buildings, fence and tree blocks and decide what prints you want to use where.  Sometimes it doesn’t matter for the smaller pieces like the windows, doors and the roof on the house – scraps left over from making the log cabin blocks will work fine for some of those small pieces.  The elevator, barn, house, and tree use a bit bigger pieces and you want to make sure that you don’t run out of the print that you want to use for those blocks.  So pick out your favourites for these and set them aside . . . they may already be some of the duplicate ones that you’ve set aside and that is just fine. 
Don’t worry about how many 10” x 10” squares you use – there is enough fabric in your layer cake to cut extra strips if needed.
How to cut Log Cabin Strips:
Make a stack of light, medium and dark 10” x 10“ prints – having approximately 4-6 prints in each stack (or whatever number you are comfortable cutting through at one time).
Line up the left hand edges of your stack as close to perfect as possible.  Measure 1 5/8” from the left raw edge and make your first cut.
Flip the strip around and trim off the raw edge to make a perfect 1 1/2” strip. 
Continue cutting 1 1/2“ strips.
From the light strips cut 4 – 1 1/2” strips from each print and from the dark prints, cut 5 – 1 1/2” strips – all your strips will be 10” long – do not cut into shorter segments at this stage. .  If you prefer cut one strip less of each of the prints and then just go back later in the construction process and cut a few of the prints that you feel you want to have a bit more of.

Using the yardage that you have chosen for your center squares, cut 1 – 1 1/2” x 42” strip and sub-cut into 16 – 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” squares.
Before you start sewing – check your seam allowance.  A perfect 1/4” is preferred, but in all cases ensure that whatever seam allowance you start with you continue through the entire quilt construction process.  To achieve the 7” finished square blocks for this project, I needed to move my needle setting over to the right by a couple of nudges.  Everyone’s machine may sew just a bit different and everyone’s presser foot might be a bit different, so be prepared to maybe have a 7” x 7” finished block, and maybe not.
How to Sew Log Cabin Blocks:

Step One:
Place a center square and  a light strip right sides together and join with a 1/4” seam, using the machine’s presser foot as a guide.  Now line up your ruler against the straight edge of Print #1, and using your rotary cutter trim away the excess of Print #2 (refer to the block legend on Page 1 for reference).  Open squares and press seam allowance away from the center square.

NOTE:  Remember that the last strip you added is always on top under the needle.  Sew with the wrong side of the finished work facing you, the new strip will always be underneath so that you can see the seam allowances and guide them away from the center of the block as you stitch.
Step Two:
Lay this unit on top of another light strip – right sides together.  Stitch this seam as shown in the photo.  Ensure that you push the seam allowance up as you sew over it.  Trim off piece #3 evenly with piece #1.  Press seam allowance away from the center square.

Step Three:
Turn the unit so that piece #3 is at the top and lay this section over a dark strip (#4).  Align the raw edges and stitch, ensuring that the previous seam allowance is pushed upwards.  Trim unit evenly with piece #1 and #2.  Press seam allowance away from the center square.

Step Four:
Now lay this partial block on top of another dark strip (#5).  Stitch and trim strip #5 even with the edge of unit #2 and #3.  Open up and press.


Continue adding and trimming strips in this manner, always turning the block counter-clockwise as you add strips, until you have a block 7 1/2” x 7 1/2” square that looks like the block above.  Assembly line piecing works very well with this type of block if a planned colour placement is used.  As in the samples shown here, the prints are randomly placed which makes it a bit more difficult to use the assembly line method – a modified version does work, but not quite as efficiently.

Give all of your blocks a final pressing and get them stacked and ready to lay out into a quilt.  Refer to the photo at the beginning of the blog post or play around with different layouts to find one that appeals to you.

Cutting Strips for Paper Piecing
There are many methods for paper piecing – please feel free to use whatever method works best for you and that you are comfortable with.

Leftovers from the Log Cabin Blocks (1 1/2”) can be used for:  House Roof; House Door; Chimney; Barn Windows; Fence Posts; and Tree Trunk.

Cut wider strips from remaining 10”x10“ fabrics:
House Window: 2” strip
Barn Door: 2 1/2” strip
Barn Roof: 2” strip
Barn: 1 1/2” and 2” strips
Lean-to: 3” strip
Lean-to Roof: 1”
Elevator – Light Color: 3 3/4” strip
Elevator – Dark Color: 2” strip

Background Strips (all 42“ long) – Cut a variety and then use as needed.  I cut a 5”, 2” and 1” strip – the 5” works best for the backgrounds on the Lean-to, the Fence block and for the angled pieces in the Tree block.  The 1” strips work best for the Fence block and the sides of the House.  If you want a different size for a certain area, just cut it from the 5” strip as needed.

The tree has a lot of different angles going on and sometimes those can be quite a challenge. The trick is to always use a wide enough strip to allow for coverage of the area that you are wanting to cover.  The other important thing to remember is to always do a bit of a mock-sewing, by either using a couple of pins or by holding the piece of fabric in place along the seam line and flipping it over to make sure that the shape you are wanting to cover is covered.  Sometimes it doesn’t seem to matter how carefully you plan, something still doesn’t work out in the end.  Always keep your seam ripper handy and take comfort in knowing that you’re not the first who has needed to re-work an angle!

The tree block is the “adjusting block” that I talked about at the beginning.  Once the tree is paper pieced you can add the top background strip (1 1/2”).  Then add 2 1/2” strips of background fabric to each side.  These 2 1/2” strips are wider than you need and will allow you to custom fit your entire barn scene to fit your finished log cabin bottom unit.  Measure your log cabin unit, including seam allowance – mark that number down.  Sew as many of your farm scene blocks together as you can . . . remember they don’t need to be in the order that I have sewn them in – create your own barn scene.  Measure your pieced blocks including only the one set of seam allowances.  Calculate the measurement you need to fill the available space and add 1/2” inch to that measurement.  Trim your tree block to that measurement and sew it into the sequence you have chosen.  Now you can sew the farm scene unit to the log cabin unit to complete your quilt center.
 Adding the First Border
1.  Measure through the middle row of blocks on the quilt top.
2.  Cut 2 – 1 1/2” x 42“ strips of this measurement from your first border print.
3.  Find the center of the quilt top and the center of the top border strip by folding them in half. Mark the halfway point with a pin or fabric marker. With right sides together, pin the center of the border to the center of the top. Pin the ends of the border strip to the ends of the quilt top and then pin every two or three inches, easing in any fullness.
4.  Using ¼ inch seam, stitch the top borders in place, being careful to ease in any fullness. As you are sewing your borders into place, be careful to keep the seams on your blocks laying in the direction they were pressed in.  Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the bottom border.
5.  Press the seams.
6.  Measure the quilt top from top to bottom across the center, including the borders just sewn on.  Repeat steps 3 to 5.
Note:  For longer borders:
If your measurement is longer than one length of the 42” strip, the borders will need to be pieced – just straight seam border strips together to make a longer length and then cut to the length needed.

Adding the Second Border:
Repeat steps 1 to 6 for the 2 1/2” second border.

Preparing and Applying the Flap (Flange) Border – (Optional)
1.  Using 5  1¼” inner border strips, straight seam them together end-to-end to create one long strip.
2. Press the entire strip in half, wrong sides together.
3.  Measure the quilt top from top to bottom and side to side across the center, including the borders just sewn on and cut four lengths of the flap border strip to those measurements.
4.  Using a 1/8” seam allowance, and with the right side of the quilt facing you, start stitching the strip to the first border, matching centers and ends as per step 3 above.
5.  Repeat for the other side and top and bottom of the quilt.

Adding the Third Border:
Repeat steps 1 to 6 for adding the first border using the 3 1/2“ third border print strips.

Embroider the name of your hometown on the front of the elevator and any other special touches that you want to make to your quilt.  The quilt top is now complete and ready for one final pressing before being layered and basted for quilting.  This quilt was quilted by Terry Whitman in Estevan, Saskatchewan and she made swirly wind stitching around the buildings and diagonal quilting across the body of the quilt.  The border has been quilted with a diamond/zig zag pattern.  Terry added sunflowers and other flowers on top of the barn and cabin, as well as a wheat sheaf on the elevator.

Binding:  Measure the top, bottom and sides of your quilt and divide this number by 42” (width of fabric) and using the number you get, round up to the nearest whole number.  This is the number of 2 1/4” strips you need to cut for binding strips.  Using a diagonal seam, stitch these strips into a long continuous unit.  Press strip in half with wrong sides together.  Stitch to the right side of the quilt aligning raw edges as you go and mitering corners as you come to them.  Turn edge over to the back side of the quilt and hand stitch in place.  Make a log cabin label and attach with pride!

I hope you enjoyed your time “Down on the Farm” with me.

Finished Quilt: 40″ x 48″

Marlene Biles
{www.sipiweskequilts.blogspot.com}

Bake Shop Basics: Piecing Batting

 photo modafirst_zps8aa2ec4a.png

Another post in celebration of National Sewing Month! 
I LOVE using my fabric scraps… It’s my favorite fabric to sew with… And I equally LOVE using up my batting scraps as well.  You know that feeling when you gather up all the left overs and little bits and pieces in the fridge and make a really good dinner?  Yeah…. such a great feeling!  Which is the same feeling I get when I use up my batting left overs! 

 photo DSC_1222_zpsdfef4538.jpg
I’m going to show you the method I use when piecing larger batting leftovers. There are many ways to piece batting, and perhaps you’ll want to experiment a little to decide which method you prefer… 

I take two pieces of batting over to my ironing board, put a piece of fabric on top of them and give em a good press to get all the wrinkles and folds out… Then over to the cutting mat, where I trim them up to the same size… {you don’t have to do this, it’s just the way I like to} 

 photo DSC_1215_zps344ce347.jpg
Overlap the two pieces about 2-3 inches
 photo DSC_1216_zps0c93d7ca.jpg
Using your rotary cutter, cut a nice wavy line from bottom to top making sure you’re catching both pieces of batting… Discard the little strips left over from the cut… 

 photo DSC_1217_zps5af3c2f3.jpg
Look at that smooth crisp wavy line… exactly what we want… 
 photo DSC_1218_zps2195270f.jpg
 photo DSC_1219_zps78af1a90.jpg
There are a few different ways to “fuse” the two pieces together:
  
1… Lightweight fusible Interfacing
2… Fusible Batting Tape
3… Either Hand or Machine Basting with a large zig zag or cross stitch  

I prefer to use up my scraps of fusible interfacing.  I think it works perfectly!

Lay the two pieces of batting on top of your ironing board, matching up the curved cut… The pieces should butt up together, but not overlap.

Then follow these steps: 
1.  Cut a strip of fusible interfacing that will cover the entire curved cut
2.  Place sticky side down onto the batting
3.  Place a piece of fabric over the top and press with a hot iron. 

And that’s it!  Your batting is fused together and all ready to go!   I personally think the curved cut is less likely to show up on the finished quilt, than a straight one.

 photo DSC_1220_zps7bf6b796.jpg
And what do I do with my smaller batting left overs?  

I pre-cut them into a couple different sizes… This size {6″x 9″} is perfect for Mug Rugs… 
 photo DSC_1235_zps8c91b6c2.jpg
 photo DSC_1248_zps8e98e440.jpg
I made this set of mug rugs using the quilt as you go technique. 

And this size {5″x5″} is perfect for coasters! 
 photo DSC_1236_zpsbaad181e.jpg
 photo DSC_1240_zps3db797f9.jpg
These pre-cut pieces make great foundations for Quilt As You Go projects! Oh so fun! 
 photo DSC_1237_zps18bf595b.jpg
With these little tips you’ll be using your batting leftovers in no time!  And I’m sure you’ll come up with some great projects to use them with too!  I also have a list of 15 different uses for batting leftovers on my Blog...  You might be surprised at some of them…. 

Happy Sewing !!! ooxx

jodi from Pleasant Home

Peanut Butter and Kelli Quilt


Hey, it’s Kelli here from Jo’s Country Junction.  My youngest sister Kalissa and I have always been close.  When she was little, her nickname was Peanut as compared to all of us other kids, she was a peanut. Her nickname Peanut eventually evolved into Peanut Butter.  Because I was (and still am) her favorite sibling, we used to change the words of our favorite Barney song, Peanut Butter and Jelly, to Peanut Butter and Kelli.  After we completed this quilt, Kalissa expressed her love of it.  Because we used the Moda fabric line PB & J, we decided to name the quilt Peanut Butter and Kelli.

Stop over to our blog for a chance to win a jelly roll after you’re done reading the tutorial.
Follow along and you can make your own.
You’ll need a fat quarter bundle and some yardage.

1 fat quarter bundle PB & J
4 yards neutral print (We used ½ yard of each of the 8 neutral prints)
1 yard neutral (border)
1 yard dark print (binding)
2.5 yards dark solid (borders, block outline)
8 yards for backing


From each of 32 colored fat quarters, cut the following:
            -1- 3.75” x 21” strip (stars)
            -2- 3” x 21” strips (sashing)
            -2- 1.75” x 21” strips (sashing, pieced border)

From each of 8 lighter fat quarters, cut the following:
            -3- 3.75” strips (stars)

From neutral border cut 10- 3”strips

From binding fabric, cut 10- 2.5” strips

From dark solid, cut the following:
            -27- 1.5” strips (star outline)
            -6- 1.75” strips (pieced border)
            -10- 3” strips (border)
Making Star Blocks:

From 32- 3.75”  colored strips, cut 1- 5” rectangle and 2- 3.75” squares.  A total of 32- 5” rectangles and 64- 3.75” squares.

From 24- 3.75” lighter strips, cut 8 (1 of each print) into 4- 5” segments from each to yield a total on 24- 5” segments.  Using the remaining 16- 3.75” neutral strips, cut a total of 64- 3.75” squares.
1.  Pair 1 colored 5” segment with 1 neutral 5” segment.  With right sides together, use an easy angle ruler to cut 2 half square triangles.  Sew together using a ¼ inch seam.  Press to the colored print. Continue with all of hte 5″ segments.  It you haven’t used an Easy Angle ruler before, here’s a great tutorial Bonnie Hunter did showing you how.
2.  Assemble star by first sewing the dark square together into a four patch.

-Then sew the half square triangles together as shown.

-Sew two to the side of the four patch.

-Sew a light colored square to each end of the remaining start points.



-Then sew the final strip to the outside.

Outlining the Star:

3.  Using 11 of the 1.5” dark solid strips, cut a total of 32- 1.5” x 13.5” strips (3 from each strip).  Sew to opposite sides of each star block.  Press to the dark “frame.”

 

4.  Using the remaining 16 strips, cut 32- 1.5” x 15.5” rectangles.  Sew to opposite sides of the star.  Press to the dark “frame.”

 

Making the Sashing Blocks:

5.  From each neutral ½ yard cut, cut a total of 3- 3” strips.  Cut each in half (approximate) to yield a total of 24- 3” x approximately 21” strips.

6.  With right sides together, pair 1 colored 3” x 21” strip with 1 neutral 3” x 21” strip. 

7.  Using your easy angle ruler, cut a total of 10 half square triangles from each set.  Sew using a 1/4 “ seam.  Press to the colored half.  Make a total of 448 half square triangles.

 

8.  Using the colored 1.75” strips, cut a total of 576- 1.75” squares (448 for sashing blocks, 128 for pieced border).
9.  With right sides together, place a colored 1.75” square in the neutral half of the half square triangle.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner.  Trim excess fabric and press to the colored square.  Repeat for each of the 448 sashing blocks.

 

10.  Sew the newly created units together as shown creating 16 blocks.

 

11.  Sew the blocks together in a 4 x 4 setting as shown.

 

Making the Pieced Borders:

12.  Subcut the 6- 1.75” strips into 64- 1.75” x 3” rectangles.

13.  Following the diagram below, using the remaining 128- 1.75” squares, place a colored square on one end of the dark rectangle with right sides together.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the colored square.  Trim excess and press to the colored square.  

14.  Repeat on opposite end.  Continue making 64 pieced border blocks.

 


15.  Using the remaining 1.75” colored strips and the remaining 1.75” dark strip, create 4- 1.75” half square triangles using your easy angle ruler.  Press to the dark.

16.  Sew 16 of the newly created border pieces together.  Make four sets of these border units.  Add a half square triangle to both ends of two of the strips.

17.  Add newly created border as shown.

 

18.  Next add the neutral, then dark borders.

 

19.  Quilt and bind using 2.5” binding strips.

Come on over to our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, to see how mom quilted our version.


Finished Quilt Size—93” x 93”
 

Jo Kramer
{www.joscountryjunction.com}

Bake Shop Basics: Quilt Borders


Today our Bake Shop Basics series continues with Chef Anjeanette sharing the proper way to make and attach quilt borders.

Hi Moda Bake Shop! It is Anjeanette from by Anjeanette. I’m going to share one of my favorite parts of making a quilt today.

Do you ever finish your quilt and wonder why your sides are wavy and won’t lay flat? You may not have put your borders on correctly.

Once your quilt top is all pieced and you are ready to add borders, it is tempting to just slap a long length of fabric on the sides, cut off any excess and think you are good to go. You have spent a good amount of time making your quilt top, it is a good idea to take this extra step to finish it correctly. Who wants a wavy quilt?
When you are ready to add your borders, lay the quilt on a flat surface. Measure through the center, from the top to the bottom. Cut two side borders to this measurement length.

Taking one border strip at a time, fold lengthwise in half and then again into fourths. Place a pin at the fold points. You will end up with three pins in the border. Fold your quilt in half and then fourths, and pin the fold points. With right sides together, pin the ends of the border to the ends of the quilt. Match the center pins from the border and quilt and pin together. Match the quarter marks from the border and quilt and pin together. I then fill in between the pins with at least one more pin for each fourth. 


There often is a little bit of excess fullness or fabric on either the border side or the quilt top. Whichever side seems more full, place towards the feed dogs when sewing. The feed dogs will help ease any fullness out.

You may need to gently hold the fabric taught in front of the presser foot as you sew to help ease any fullness out.


If it seems like there isn’t any fullness or excess fabric on either the border, or the quilt top, place the quilt top towards the feed dogs when sewing.

After both side borders are sewn on, press the seam allowance away from the quilt top, or towards the border.

Now repeat the whole process for the top and bottom borders.

Lay the quilt on a flat surface. Measure through the center of the quilt, from one side to the other side. Cut two borders to this measurement. Pin the quarter marks on the borders and quilt. Pin the borders to the quilt matching pins. Pin the ends of the border and the quilt together. Etc.

A few tips:
  • Using a walking foot for these long seams is helpful.
  • It is okay if you have to piece or sew two strips together to make the total length measurement.  Just make sure you are cutting your border to the correct measurement before sewing on.


A perfectly flat quilt with borders.

Anasazi Medallion Quilt

 
I am honored to be a part of Moda Bake Shop.  This is my first post and I can’t wait to show you my finished project!  As a child, our family took many vacations to southern Utah and the Four-Corners area of Utah, Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona.  One of my favorite places to visit was Mesa Verde National Park–a spectacular area of canyons where the native Anasazi Indians “Ancient Ones” built their homes in the cliffs.   In honor of this, I decided to name my quilt Anasazi Medallion as the layout takes me back to those fun camping trips.


1 Dessert Roll (For this quilt I used Moda Ombres Marble Dots collection)
1 Jelly Roll for the borders (I also used Moda Ombres Marble Dots)
2 1/2 yards white fabric for the medallion setting and inner border (I also used Moda Marble Dots)
4 Yards Backing
3/4 Yard Binding (I also used Moda Marble Dots)


 Center Medallion:

Unroll your dessert roll and pair 10 fabrics strips according to your liking.   In the sample quilt, I aligned the fabric color with the color adjacent to it in the dessert roll.  To maintain the color placement value of the ombre fabric, align the white selvage edges together so that the dark hues align with similar color values.

Sew two coordinated strips together, pressing all seams toward the dark fabric.  Then cut these strips into squares measuring 9 1/2 inches.  Each strip will yield 4 squares.  You will need a total of 18 squares.

From the 2 1/2 yards of white fabric, cut the inner border first from the lengthwise grain.  Cut four strips measuring 2 1/2 inches wide by 60 inches long.  Reserve these strips to apply to the center patchwork medallion once it has been completed.

From the remaining white fabric, cut the medallion setting squares.  Rotary cut 6 strips measuring 9 1/2 inches wide, then cut these into 9 1/2 inch squares. You will need a total of 18 squares. Draw a diagonal line down the center of each of these.

Layer one pieced pieced square with a white square on top, right sides together.  Sew a 1/4 inch seam allowance down both sides of the diagonal line on the white square.

Cut these in half along the drawn line and press seams toward the colored fabric.  This will yield 36 blocks for the center medallion.  Refer to the placement diagram for the correct orientation of these blocks in the medallion.



Border:

Unroll your jelly roll and pair fabrics according to your liking.  In the sample quilt, I aligned the fabric strip with the color adjacent to it in the dessert roll.  To maintain the color placement value of the ombre fabric, align the white selvage edges together so that the dark hues align with similar color values.  Sew all all 2 1/2 inch strips together in rainbow order.  Rotary cut these into 6 inch widths.  14 rainbow repeats are needed, 4 for the top border, 4 for the bottom border, 3 for the right border and 3 for the left border.

Quilt Top Assembly Diagram:

Add the borders to your quilt top starting with the inner white strips first, then your completed rainbow repeat borders.

70 inches square quilt top.

I just love the vibrant colors in these Moda Marble basics dessert and jelly rolls .  Their colors are as vivid as my Zinnias in my garden!  Wow!  These fabrics are sure to make any project pop with awesome color.

Note: 1 Dessert Roll contains enough 5 inch strips to create enough squares for two center medallions.

Happy Quilting!

Shannon Mower
{moderntraditionquilts.blogspot.com