Let’s Go Trippin’!

trippin' final


Hello again!  I’m Polly from Aunt Polly’s Porch blog and I’m so happy to be sharing my designs again on the Moda Bake Shop! I know many of us are looking forward to school being over soon and going on a fun summer vacation.  So, I thought you might need a travel set to take with you. Let’s Go Trippin’!!!

My five piece trippin’ travel set includes a hanging bag, a large weekend tote bag, a laptop bag, a cosmetic case and a day-tripper bag.  My set was made with amazing fabric from Moda’s “Oh, My!” collection by Sanae.

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a layer cake
a jelly roll
2 yards for straps
3 yards for linings
fusible fleece
fusible interfacing
48” plastic zipper for hanging bag
14” plastic zipper for cosmetic bag
Velcro


big cool buttons for bag closures

1. The Hanging Bag-
Select twelve layer cake pieces for the front and twelve layer cake pieces for the back.  Sew them together with three squares across and four down.
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As I’ve had shoulder surgery, I am very conscious of the weight of things I carry, so I chose not to add fleece or batting to the hanging bag and quilt it.  Instead, I used interfacing to give the fabric more body without the added weight…but you could also add batting and quilt the bag if you so desired!
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Following the manufacturer’s directions for your fusible interfacing, press it to the wrong side of both front and back.  Use a marking pen and draw a line right down the center on the right side of the front for zipper placement.

Next, for the hanging loop, cut a strip of lining fabric 2  1/2” X 8”.  With wrong sides together, press in half lengthwise.  Now open up the strip and bring the long raw edges into the center fold and repress (like bias tape).
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Topstitch down both long edges and down the middle.
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Place the short ends over each other with a pin and set aside.

For the handles, from the strap fabric, cut four strips 3  1/2” by 21” and cut four strips of fusible fleece 1  1/2” by 21”.   Fuse the fleece on the wrong side of the strips.
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Press one long edge over the fleece then first press the remaining edge of each strap under 1/4”, then fold that over the first pressed side and top stitch close to that edge…which is close to being right down the middle of the strap.
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Press the strap flat then fold the two long edges together and stitch beginning about 3” from the raw ends. Backstitch at the beginning and end of that stitching line and set aside for the moment.
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Cut four rectangles 6” X 25” from the strap fabric for the top and bottom yokes for front and back.  Fuse interfacing on all four rectangles.
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Pin the raw ends of the handles onto the pieced bag front and back at the seams as shown below and baste across the handle ends with a 1/4” seam allowance.
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At this time, you can sew on the yoke pieces with a 3/8” seam allowance, onto the top of both the front and bag back, but only on the bag bottom for the time being.  Topstitch along the yoke seam and through the handle where it comes out of that seam as shown below.  You will wait to sew the last yoke piece onto the bag front until after the zipper is attached.
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Lay the closed zipper down centered on the drawn middle line with the wrong side of the zipper against the right side of the bag front. Using a zipper foot, stitch down the zipper 1/4” from the each edge of the zipper tape on both sides.

Next, cut two strips from the strap fabric 2” by width of fabric for the zipper trim.  Press one long edge of each strip under about 3/8”. On one side at a time, lay the raw/unfolded edge of one strip right side down on top of the zipper with the raw edge of the strip evenly aligned with the edge of the zipper tape.  Stitch down through all layers with a 1/4” seam allowance.

Flip the strip over and now with the wrong side against the right side of the bag front, press and stitch the folded edge down, thus enclosing the edge of the zipper tape.  You can also topstitch the edge of the zipper trim that is sewn to the zipper tape closest to the teeth.
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Attach the zipper trim strips like this on both sides of the zipper.
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The zipper is longer than you need, so at this time you can sew across the closed zipper at the end of the bag then cut off the leftover zipper end and zipper trim strips and discard.
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Now carefully sew the remaining front yoke onto the bottom of the bag front and topstitch as you did on the other yokes/handles. Go carefully and slowly as you sew across the cut off zipper end.

Pin and stitch the hanger loop with a 1/4” seam allowance on the bag front bottom in the center with the loop raw edges even with the bag yoke bottom as shown below.
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Flip the bag front over and using thin scissors, carefully cut through the fabric and interfacing right down the center- go carefully so as not to cut through the zipper in any way.
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Press the raw edges back away from teeth on both sides of the zipper.
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Next, I folded the bag front lengthwise down the middle with the side edges pinned together, I trimmed off 2” from both sides.  Repeat this with the bag back.
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While the bag front and back are folded, trim off the top two corners at the sides in a straight line from the edge of the zipper facing strips to about 1  1/2” above the top yoke seam.
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Repeat with the top of the bag back.
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To finish the top center edges of the bag where the clothes hangers will come out, you will need to cut 2 pieces from the strap fabric 2  1/2” by 6”. 
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Fold one long edge under on each piece about 1” and press.  Cut one strip in half. 

Unzip the front about 3” then lay one small piece with right sides together on the top edge of the bag front on each side of the zipper.
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Do the same with the longer piece on the bag back at the top edge.
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Stitch them on with a 1/4” seam allowance.  Flip the facings to the wrong side and top stitch them down as shown below.
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Repeat with the facing strip on the top of the bag back.
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Use the bag front as a pattern piece by laying it cross grain on the lining fabric.  The bag front and back lining is cut out in two pieces.  It is pieced with a bottom yoke band. Cut 2 lining pieces matching the outer bag pieces and two bottom bands that are 6” tall by the width of the finished outer bag pieces. Trim the top corners to match the angled outer bag corners.
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Cut one lining piece in half and press the cut center edges under about 1/4”- later, this will be hand sewn on the inside of the zipper tape. You can topstitch this folded edge if you desire.  Sew the bottom bands onto the lining bottoms.

Now, were ready to assemble the hanging bag!

Layer the 4 bag pieces together with the outside bag pieces in the middle with their right sides together and the bag linings on the outside with their right sides out and pin all around. 
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Stitch all around the bag edges with a 1/2” seam allowance. Finish this seam edge with a wide zigzag stitch.
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Hand stitch the front lining down on both sides of the zipper and around the “neck” edges.  Add a zipper pull if desired.
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F.Y.I- the little hanging loop that was stitched into the center of the bottom seam is used by looping it over the hangers coming out of the top to make the hanging bag fold to an easier size to carry!  🙂
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OK, the biggest piece is done, 4 more to go!! 🙂


2. The Weekend Tote bag-
Cut the remaining layer cake squares into 5” squares- you will get 4 from each layer cake piece.
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Select 19 squares for the front, 19 for the back, 8 for each side and 10 squares for the tote bottom.  Lay them out as shown below, leaving out the center block to form a center “slot” in the top row.  I arrange them on my design board right next to each other so I know what fabric squares are next to each other including the sides and bottoms.
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Sew all the squares together into 4 pieces- front, back, 2 sides and bottom.  Lay the pieces wrong side down on top of the fusible fleece with the fusible side up, cut around the pieces and press with iron.
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Quilt the pieces at this time. I stitched diagonally through the squares with a wiggly stitch.
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Select two groups of 4 squares. Sew together to make two 4 patch pieces for 2 large pockets.  Lay the two pieced pocket fronts right sides together on the lining fabric.  Cut around them and then sew around all sides, leaving an opening to turn it right side out.  Press, then topstitch across the top edge and set aside.
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Use the quilted bag pieces as patterns to cut out the 5 lining pieces by laying them right sides together on top of the lining fabric and cutting around them.  I fused interfacing to the wrong side of all the lining pieces to give the tote a bit more structure.  Place the 2 completed pockets on the right side of one lining piece. Pin and stitch around them on three sides.
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To make the long closure tie, cut a strip of lining fabric 1  3/4” by 20”. Press the strip in half lengthwise, then open it up and fold the long raw edges into the center.
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Refold and press, then topstitch down both long sides.
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To make the straps, cut two pieces of lining fabric 5” by 30” and cut 2 pieces of fusible fleece 2” by 30”.  Fuse it down the center of the strap fabric, then press one long edge under 3/4”.
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Fold the raw edge side over the fusible then fold the pressed edge over it all. 
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Topstitch down the folded edge through all thicknesses, then down both sides.  Repeat for second strap, then set aside with the closure strip.
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Sew the bottom piece on the long side to one bag side.
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Sew one long edge of each sidepiece to the front and then to the bottom and then to the back, assembling the outer bag completely.  Do the same with the lining pieces, using a 3/8” seam allowance.  The lining piece with the 2 pockets is the back and the plain lining piece is the front.  Remember to leave an opening in the lining between the bottom and back pieces to be able to turn the purse through later!!
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Pin the straps as shown below over the seam lines on the front and back.
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Pin the center fold of the long thin closure strap on the center “slot” and stitch them all down with a 1/4” seam allowance. 
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Pin the lining over the outer bag with right sides together, matching all the side seams and center slot edges all around the top.  Stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance. Clip the inner corners and trim the outer corners to facilitate sharp points when completed. 
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Turn the tote right side out through the opening you left in the lining.
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Then stitch that opening closed as shown below.
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Push the lining down inside the bag. Pin, press, and topstitch around the top finished edges about 1/4” in down.
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If you like a firmer bag bottom, you can cut a piece of heavy cardboard or plastic needlepoint canvas to fit the bottom and cover it with leftover scrap fabric.

Now, the Weekender Tote bag is VERY large, so I wanted a way to make the size adjustable!  I added a buttonhole and button on each side to be able to button it up when I want it smaller and unbutton it when I need the bag to hold more!  The button and buttonhole are about 1/4” in from the side seam and the same distance from the top edge.
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You don’t have to do this if you only want your tote to be full sized.

This is what it looks like when the button is in the buttonhole, making the tote sides smaller.
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Sew on the big closure button where you like on the front of the bag in the center. Because I also wanted the bag closure tie to be able to be tighter if the bag is not too full, or looser if the bag is really stuffed, I stitched two ties together in two places for varied tightness.
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Voilaaaa! Piece two is also complete! 
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YAY! Only three more to go!

3. The Laptop Bag-
For this bag, we will use the jelly roll! Pull the duplicate strips out of the pile of jelly roll strips and set aside then cut all the other strips in half at the center fold.
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Using only one half of each strip, sort then sew the strips into groups of three.

Then sub-cut the strip set into 2 1/2” segments.
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Using strip sets of three squares makes piecing the bag much quicker than sewing together each square separately. Layout the strip sets in any way you like in order to get one piece made with 10 squares across by 7 squares down. This piece is the front of the bag and both sides.  Sew together, press as desired and iron fusible fleece onto the wrong side.
front plus sides
Next, layout the strip sets in order to get one piece made with 8 squares across by 8 squares down. This piece is the bag back and the bottom.  Sew together, press as desired, and iron fusible fleece onto the back.
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Quilt each piece as desired! I just did a simple meander!
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Use the two quilted pieces as patterns for the lining by laying them right sides together on the lining fabric and cut around them.  Set aside for now.

Using the leftover strip sets, arrange and sew a piece together with 8 squares across by 3 squares down for the top flap. Press and iron fusible fleece onto the back, then use it to cut a matching piece from the lining fabric.  Quilt it as you wish.  Trim off the corners as shown below. 
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Before we sew the outer flap and flap lining together we have to make a little flap loop. Cut a piece of fabric 2” by 7”.  Fold in half lengthwise and press, then open it up and fold the long raw edges into the center, then repress, topstitch both long sides and press as shown below.
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Pin the loop in the center of the flap as desired, trim the raw ends even with the flap edge, and baste across with a 1/4” seam allowance.
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With right sides together, pin and stitch around three sides of the top flap.  Turn right side out, press and topstitch around the seam.  Stitch the soft strip of a 9  1/2” long set of coordinating Velcro strips along the flap edge as shown below.
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Sew the coordinating rough strip on the quilted outer front about 4” down from the top edge.
Next sew the side seams and bottom seam on both the outer quilted bag and on the lining.  Remember to leave an opening in one lining seam to turn the bag through.
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From the strap fabric, cut one 4” by 22” strip for the strap. Cut one 1  1/2” by 22” strip of fusible fleece. Fuse the fleece strip down the center of the wrong side of the strap. 
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Press one long edge under 1/4”.  Fold the long raw edge over the fused fleece then fold the other side over that. Stitch that folded edge down from end to end, and press.  Now fold the two stitched edges together and pin then stitch through those edges, starting and stopping 3” from each end.
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Pin the strap ends to the top back edge as shown below and baste them down with a 1/4” seam allowance.  Next pin the top flap over that handle and baste with a 1/4” seam allowance.
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With right sides together, pin the lining to the outer quilted bag around the top seam and stitch with a 3/8” seam allowance.
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Turn the bag right side out through the opening left in the lining seam then stitch that opening closed and push the lining down into the bag.
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Pin then topstitch around the top seam!  Taaa daaaa!!  🙂
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Piece three of the travel set is now complete!  Yessss!
Now, three down and only 2 to go!!

4. The Cosmetic Bag-
Using the leftover strip sets, layout two sets of 24 squares using a 6 squares across by 4 squares down layout.
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Fuse fleece on the wrong side of both pieces.  Using leftover 5” squares and jelly roll strips, piece together to create 2 lining pieces.
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Place the lining and outer bag side wrong sides together and quilt as desired.
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Cut a piece of fabric 2” by 5”.  Fold in half lengthwise and press, then open up and fold the long raw edges into the center fold, and repress.  Cut into two equal pieces.

Take the zipper and stitch across the top ends about 1/4” from the top of the teeth as shown below.  Then trim off ends to 1/4”.
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Next, slide those stitched raw edges into the fold of the prepared strip then topstitch through all thicknesses close to each long edge and down the middle of the prepared strip as shown. Trim the strip edges even with the zipper tape.
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Lay the zipper down on top of the bag side and on the other end of the zipper, place a pin 1” from the end of the bag piece. 
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Stitch across the zipper at the pin and then cut the zipper off leaving about 1/4” after the pin.  You can do this stitching by hand or by machine using a very wide zigzag that fits over the width of the teeth.
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Then finish this end of the zipper the same way as the other end by slipping the cut edges into the fold of the prepared strip and topstitching as desired.  Be careful as it is easy to break a needle trying to sew through the zipper teeth.  Trim the strip edges even with the zipper sides.
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Place zipper face down on one bag side with right sides together, zipper tape side edge even with the quilted side edge and centered from end to end.  Stitch through all thicknesses 1/4” from the aligned edges.
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Do the same with the other quilted bag piece and the other side of the zipper, but watch that the quilted bag sides line up, as well.
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Unzip the zipper at least 3 inches, then pin and stitch around the other three sides of the bag with a 3/8” seam allowance.  I finished the raw edges with a tight and wide zigzag after clipping the seam allowances at the 2 corners.
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Turn right side out and use a pointed tool to push out the 2 bottom corners.  I used a piece of the beige woven ribbon used to wrap up the jelly roll as a zipper pull!  Yippeeskippee!!  The fourth piece of your new travel set is done!  🙂
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Four down only one more to go!!  🙂

5. The Daytripper bag-
Using the remaining jelly roll half-strips for this fun little bag!
Select 5 strips for the bag and two strips for the top flap.  Select one of the 5 strips to use as an accent.  Cut that strip in half lengthwise.
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Stitch two strips together, then the thinner accent strip, then the other two strips as shown below. Fuse fleece onto the wrong side, then quilt as desired.

Use the leftover scraps of strips and squares to piece together a large enough piece for the bag lining.  Lay the quilted outer bag and pieced lining right sides together and trim the lining to the size of the quilted outer bag.
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Sew the two top flap strips together with the thinner accent strip in between, then trim it to the same length as the bag width, as shown below.  Fuse fleece onto the wrong side of the top flap and quilt as desired.
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Trim off the flap corners as shown below. Lay it right sides together on top of lining fabric and cut around it. 

Cut a strip of fabric 2” by 14” for the button loop.  Fold in in half lengthwise and press, then open it up and fold the long raw edges into the fold, press and top stitch down both long sides. Fold in half and baste it down in the center of the flap as shown below.
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Lay the quilted flap and lining right sides together, stitch around the 5 sides with a 1/2” seam allowance.
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Turn right side out, press and top stitch around the seam edges.  Baste the open raw edges of the top flap with right sides together to the top of the outer quilted bag back. 

Use two leftover 5” squares to make an inside pocket.  Place them right sides together and sew around all edges leaving a 2” opening.
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Clip the corners and turn right side out. press and top stitch across one edge to become the pocket top. Place it on the right side of the lining 2  1/2” below the top and centered side to side, as shown below.  Pin in place then stitch around the three sides.
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Fold the quilted outer bag in half- the fold will be the bottom of the bag.  Stitch both side seams from the fold up to the bag top.  Repeat this with the lining, but remember to leave a 4” opening on one side to turn the bag right side out through!

Box the corners at the fold so that they measure 2” across the boxing seam.

I used one uncut jelly roll strip for the bag strap.  I prepared it the same way I did the button loop by folding the strip in half lengthwise and press with iron.  Then open up the strip and fold the long raw edges into the center fold, press and top stitch down both long edges.
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Baste the raw ends of the strap on the right side over the side seams of the quilted bag with a 1/4” seam allowance.

Time to assemble the bag! Put the quilted outer bag and the lining right sides together and pin the top raw edges together.  Stitch around the top edges with a 3/8” seam allowance.
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Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the side lining then stitch that opening closed. 
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Push the lining down into the bag.  Pin around the top seam and topstitch 1/4” from that seam edge with the top flap out.

Fold the top down to see where to stitch on the button.

Knot the button loop where desired and trim off the excess.
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Yessindeeeedy!!  The fifth and final piece of your new travel set is now complete!

This little bag is the perfect size to throw your phone, keys, and money in for a hands free shopping day at the nearest quilt show vendor hall!!  🙂  I hope you enjoy using this handy travel set on your next trip!
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one long hanging bag
one large tote bag
one laptop bag
one cosmetic case
one small handbag

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Yogi and I would love to have you as a follower on our blog- Aunt Polly’s Porch
Come for a visit soon and let me know how you like this set of projects!
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Polly Monica
{Aunt Polly’s Porch}

Flying Kimonos


The Japanese have many beautiful traditions one of which is the art of Sashiko. I found a Sashiko pattern that looked like little arrowheads and adapted it to make a quilting block. The following quilt showcases one placement of the block to make a very colourful lap quilt using Modern Workshop by Oliver + S. Liesl Gibson has painted a palette of vibrant hues and subtle designs which made it so much fun to make these Kimonos Fly.

1 x Modern Workshop Jelly Roll
2 yards of main border fabric (use length to cut borders)
1.25 yard Moda Bella Solid – Chocolate 9900 41
1.75 yard Moda Bella Solid – Moda U Brown 9900 71

The instructions are for a 9 block layout. With careful planning and cutting you can make 12 blocks from one Jelly Roll.

These blocks while they look complex, are quite simple to make. The block is constructed using a strip piecing method cut at 45 degrees. There are three main rules to follow when making these blocks.

  1. Consistency in your seams. Keep an accurate 1/4″ throughout.
  2. Do not stretch your fabric or pieces. I use spray starch to stabilise my fabrics. I only press my piecing. Do not use steam. Only press a section when complete. This will avoid over pressing.
  3. Most importantly, always cut your completed strip sets at 45 degrees using the middle seam as a point of reference. If you cut your strips accurately and consistently, they will fit together perfectly when sewing the rows together.

Planning

Each block will consist of 17 separate fabrics for the arrowheads, one orange print kimono, one brown print kimono tail, and dark brown kimono tail and sleeve.

  • Select two (2)  brown strips and two orange strips (2) from your Jelly Roll. These will be your Kimono fabrics.
  • Cut 4 x 2.5″ strips WOF from dark brown solid for Kimono tails and sleeves.
  • Select 34 different fabrics from the Modern Workshop Jelly Roll. Each strip set will yield five (5) to six (6) strips blocks. For this tutorial, we will only use nine (9) in total.
  • Cut the strips in half to yield 2 x approximately 22″ strips.
Set 1 – Five blocks

Set 2 – Four blocks
  • Make a line drawing of this block and cut a snippet of each fabric and glue or pin to drawing. This will help you organise your strip sets.
Remember to place the dark brown solid, brown, and orange prints in the positions below. These form the Kimonos.
Placement of Fabrics for the Kimono Pattern
  • Layout your strip sets in rows and sew together. Stagger your strips 2″ from top or bottom depending on the orientation of the rows. (See diagram below).
  • Press open Seams.
  • Cut the strip sets into rows 2″ wide at a 45 degree angle.

The rows must be cut at a 45 degree angle. There is a marking on most rulers. I used a 6.5″ squaring ruler to achieve my 45 degree orientation. I placed the centre line of the ruler on the middle seam and then butted another ruler up against it. Reverse this process to cut the opposite direction.

  • When you have cut all strip sets into rows, lay them as shown below. You will need to cut nine (9) left diamonds and nine (9) right diamonds to add to the ends from the dark brown fabric.
  • Sew each row together staring from the left. The intersecting seams should fit snuggly together. Pin well and slow down when you come to each seam intersection. Press open your seams when block is completed.
  • Cut block – Your finished block should be 12 1/2″. When you cut each block, make sure you place the 45 degree angle of your squaring ruler down the centre and cut each block exactly the same.
Adding the Sashing
  • Cut 1″ strips WOF from the lighter brown solid.
  • Cut six (6) strips the width of your block – 12 1/2″
  • Layout your blocks so the Kimonos all lay in the one direction.
  • Sew the sashing strips to the top of two (2)  blocks and join to make a row of three. Press seams outward.
  • Repeat to make two more rows of three (3) blocks.
  • Measure across your sets of three finished blocks. Take the average of the two measurements and cut two (2) x 1″ strips of the lighter brown solid to make the sashing to join the rows. Sew together making sure the sashing intersections all align. Press seams outward.
Adding the borders

Border 1
  • Measure across the centre of the quilt.  Using 2″ strips of the lighter brown solid,  sew to top and bottom.
  • Measure from top to bottom of quilt and add 2″ border strips to sides of quilt.
Border 2
  • Measure across the centre of the quilt. Cut 1″ strips of dark brown solid and 6 1/2″ strips of main border fabric. Sew 1″ dark brown solid strip to main border fabric. Sew to top and bottom of quilt.
  • Measure from top to bottom of quilt and sew a 1″ dark brown solid strip to main border fabric and sew left and right borders.
Binding and Quilting
  • Make sure quilt is square.
  • Cut 2 1/2″ strips of the dark brown solid and make double fold binding.
  • Sew binding to quilt.
  • Quilt as desired. I have machine quilted this project using an all over pattern.

Block size 12 1/2″
Quilt Size 54″ x 54″

One colourful lap quilt.

These are alternative block layouts, which would look fabulous in any of the beautiful fabrics designed for Moda, especially their Bella solid range.

Jane Davidson
{Quilt Jane}

Love Is Timeless

Hello there my Moda Bake Shop friends!! I have another quilt tutorial for you and I hope you love it just as much as I do!

I’ve named this quilt “Love Is Timeless” because it is made out of a lot of hourglass blocks and of course, hearts! I think this line is perfect for this quilt, too!!

I hope you enjoy the tutorial and come visit me, KarrieLyne, over at my blog, Freckled Whimsy, when you’re done reading!

Oh…and guess what??!! The famous Leah over at Burgundy Buttons is kitting this quilt just for you!! Hurry on over to grab yours up! Click HERE to go shopping! 😀

Enjoy…. Love Is Timeless …


2 sherbet pips layer cakes
3/8 yard solid white fabric (border for heart blocks)
1/2 yard for border #1
1 1/4 yard for border #2
5 yards for backing
3/4 yard binding (8 strips 2.5″ x WOF, pieced)
template plastic
Heart Template {included in Printer Friendly Version at bottom of post}

Notes before beginning::
*All seams are 1/4″
*WOF means Width Of Fabric (selvage to selvage)
*LC means Layer Cake
*You will have to piece your backing

1. Choose 6 LC pieces that you want to use for your hearts and set them aside. You will use these for your Four Patch Heart Blocks.

Hourglass Blocks:
1.  Choose 60 layer cake pieces and trim them to 9.5”. I trim off the top and right side first just enough to cut off the pinked edge.

2.  Turn it 180 degrees and square it up to 9.5”. I put 4 LC pieces together to make trimming go faster. Just be careful to keep them lined up. Best way to do this is to turn your mat when you do the second cut instead of moving your pieces.

3.  Pair these up into 30 pairs. Remember to use contrast in choosing your pairs.

4.  Take one pair, place them right sides together and sew 1/4” seam along EACH edge of the LC pieces. Basically you are sewing a big square. Be sure to sew edge to edge, remove your piece, and begin again on the next edge. You will have no openings!  *Note* Chain piecing works well here too. Sew all of your right side edges together in a chain, trim apart, then sew your next edge on all 30 pieces, trim and repeat until you have all 30 pieces sewn. This makes the process go faster!

5.  This is the fun part!!

6.  DO NOT MOVE YOUR PIECES AT ALL UNTIL ALL 4 CUTS HAVE BEEN MADE!!

7.  Using your ruler and rotary cutter and mat, cut your piece from corner to corner, and repeat for the other corners. (You just cut an X in your piece)

8.  Now cut 4.75” from the left (cutting in half vertically)

9.  Then cut 4.75” from the bottom (cutting in half horizontally)

10. You should now have 8 quarter square triangle (QST) pieces! 🙂

11. Psst…you can move them now. 😉

12. Press each piece to the darker print. Take care not to iron the piece as this will stretch your bias edges. Just press.

13. You will have two sets of four QST that match. One has a seam pressed to the left, one to the right. Keep these piles the same as you cut each LC set. One pile that has all seams pressed to the right, one pile that has all it’s seams pressed to the left.  Keep these piles separate.

14. Using all these QST choose 2, both from the same pile, and both with different fabrics. Place these right sides together, matching and nesting your seams and sew along the LONG edge.

15. Press to one side. This makes up 1/4 of your block and it should measure 6” square. Square up if necessary.

16. Make 3 more.

17. Sew two pairs together, press to opposite sides.

18. Sew the pairs together. Press.

19. This is your Hourglass Block! It should measure 11.5”.

20. Make 30 Hourglass Blocks total.


Four Patch Blocks:

1. Choose 6 LC pieces and pair them up for contrast. (Note: You can use more than 6 to get a better variety in your blocks).

2. Lay 2 LC pieces right sides together, matching all edges. Sew 1/4” along each edge. (right and left)

3. Keeping your sewn edges to the right and left sides, cut piece in half. (5” from edge.)

4. Press to darker fabric. You should have two pieces that look like this.

5. Repeat for the other 2 pairs of LC pieces.

6. Pair up these pieces so each pair has different fabrics.

7. Place them right sides together with the middle seams matching. Be sure that the lighter and dark fabric pieces are opposite each other between the two pieces. See photo.

8. Sew 1/4” along each edge (left and right) so you are crossing over the seam. (refer to photo). From the edge that is sewn, cut in 1/2 way. (5” from edge”)

9. Press. You know have a Four Patch Block measuring 9.5”.

10. Repeat until you have 6 blocks.

11. Now cut 6 strips of white 1.5” x WOF and sub cut them into 12 strips measuring 1.5” x 9.5” and 12 strips measuring 1.5” x 11.5”.

12. Sew the 9.5” strips to the top and bottom of each of your Four Square blocks. Press.

13. Sew the 11.5” strips to the right and left of each of your Four Square Blocks. Press.

14. Continue this block using the Heart Template instructions below.

Heart Template:
1. Trace the heart template onto template plastic and cut it out on the line.

2. Using this template, place it on the wrong side of each of your 6 LC pieces you set out earlier and trace around the heart.

3.  Cut out each heart on the line.

4.  Attach the hearts to the Four Patch Blocks using your favourite method of applique. I placed mine in the center of each block then I sewed 1/4” away from the raw edge on the inside all the way around the heart.

 5. When washed, this will cause it to fray and give it a scruffy look. 🙂

Finishing:
1.  Layout your blocks in a pleasing order, 6 x 6, scattering the 6 heart blocks.

2.  Sew the blocks together in each row. Press row 1 to the right, row 2 to the left, row 3 to the right, and so on.

3.  Sew your rows together. Your seams should nest nicely.

4.  Using your first border print, cut 8 strips measuring 1.5″ x WOF.  Piece these in pairs. Add border strips to the right and left sides first, trim excess. Press.  Then add to the top and bottom. Trim excess. Press.

5.  Using your second border print, cut 8 strips measuring 4.5″ x WOF. Piece these in pairs. Add border strips to the right and left sides first, trim excess. Press.  Then add to the top and bottom. Trim excess. Press.

6.  Press your quilt top well.

7.  Piece your backing then layer the backing, batting, and quilt top. Baste, and quilt as desired.

Before washing, your quilt should measure approximately 76″ square.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please oh please share it with me? You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE.  I would love to feature them on my blog! 🙂

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Sunny Side Up Pillow

Finished-Pillow

Tam from Sew Dang Cute Crafts here today to share with you this bright and cheerful pillow. Thanks to my Facebook fans, the name of this pillow is Sunny Side Up.


  • 1/2 yd fabric
  • 1 jelly roll (I used Sweetwater’s Sunkissed)
  • (1) 16” pillow form
  • Starch or fusible interfacing
  • 3” circle template {included in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of the post}


1. Cut (2) 15” x 15” squares from the 1/2 yd fabric. If you have a pillow form that is a different size than the 16” I used, just cut your fabric 1” smaller than your pillow.

2. Select several strips from your jelly roll. Cut them different widths ranging from 1” – 2”.
Strips

3. Sew your strips RST (right sides together) using a 1/4” seam allowance. Press the seams open.
Strips-sewn-together

4. We are going to use these sewn strips to cut our 3” circles from.

5. You have two different options at this point – 1) you can use starch or 2) you can use fusible interfacing. If you choose to use starch, go ahead and starch and iron about 4 times so your fabric is really stiff and easy to cut. If you choose to use fusible interfacing, go ahead and apply that to the wrong side of your sewn strips.
Interfacing-attached

6. Take your 3” circle template and trace 9 different circles on either the fusible interfacing or the back side of the fabric, then cut those out. I have an Accuquilt GO! Baby fabric cutter, so I used my 3” circle die cut to quickly cut my 9 circles.
Accuquilt

7. Arrange your circles on top of one of the 15” x 15” squares. If you starched, pin in place. If you used fusible interfacing, iron them on. All my circles were 1” away from each other and 1 3/4” away from the edges.
Place-appliques

8. Stitch appliques in place using a straight stitch, zigzag, blanket stitch, etc. I used a very tight zigzag.
Stitch-appliques

9. Pin your two 15”x 15” squares RST. We need to leave about an 8” opening to stuff the pillow form in. I marked mine with red pins so I knew where to start and stop sewing. Sew the two squares together with a 1/4” seam allowance. Clip the corners and turn right side out through your opening.
Sew-pillow-together-and-clip-corners

10. Stuff the pillow form in the opening and use a blind stitch (hand stitch) to sew the opening shut. Then you are done! You now have a beautiful pillow!
Finished-Pillow

I hope you’ll come visit me at Sew Dang Cute Crafts for more tutorials, including the rest of the bedding and room décor that matches this pillow!

One 16″ x 16″ pillow.

Tamarynn Bennett
{Sew Dang Cute Crafts}

Squaredy Cat Quilt

Hi this is Wendy from Sewing in the Wendy City.  I’m thrilled to bring you my second Moda Bake Shop recipe! This time I got to work with Momo’s Just Wing It! collection, which is fabulously beautiful. 
I call this quilt my “Squaredy Cat” quilt because it uses giant squares to make a large quilt and goes together very easily and quickly.  If’ you’ve always been a “Scaredy Cat” about a bed-sized quilt, then “Squaredy Cat” is a good pattern for you!


1 layer cake in Just Wing It by MoMo
2 Jelly Rolls in Just Wing It by MoMo
1 yard of a coordinating print for binding
5 1/2 yards of a coordinating print for backing

From the layer cake, pull out the following:
18 squares that will be the centers of our blocks
4 squares that will be the corner posts on the piano key border (trim to 8″ square)
9 squares that will be subcut into 2.5″ x 10″ strips (yielding 36 10″ strips)
3 squares that will be subcut into 2.5″ x 8″ strips (yielding 12 8″ strips)
The rest of the layer cake can be pieced into the backing

From the 2 jelly rolls, you will need the following:
8 solidish strips to be the inner border.  I used the blue toned ones.
36 strips, each cut into:  one 18-inch strip, a 14-inch strip, and an 8-inch strip
Another 36 strips, each cut into:  one 14-inch strip, and three 8-inch strips

When you finish cutting you will have:
36  10-inch strips
72  14-inch strips
36 18-inch strips
156 8-inch strips

It may be helpful to find a ziploc or a basket for each size of strips.  



Now, time to sew!  It is very, very helpful to chain piece these.  If you do this, it will go pretty quickly.


To each of your 18 center squares, add the following:



10-inch strips to each side,



14-inch strips to the top and bottom, 


another set of 14-inch strips to the left and right



And finally, 18-inch strips to the top and bottom.

At this point, your blocks will be approximately 18 inches square.  Press them well, and take them to your cutting mat.



Cut vertically and horizontally to make four 9-inch blocks.



You will have 72 of these 9-inch blocks.



Layout the blocks in pairs like so… and pin them.  Make sure you have the squares lined up… in the top right on the left and the bottom right corner on the right.  I suggest pinning them all and then chain piecing all 36 pairs.



Aren’t they pretty all lined up like that?

Next, sew the pairs of blocks into rows of 4 blocks, alternating the square placement each time.

Then put 2 groups of 4 together so that you have 8 blocks. You will have 9 identical rows of 8 blocks each.

Find the 8 jelly roll strips you reserved for the inner border and sew them together end-to-end.



Add the inner border onto your quilt center.

Find the giant pile of 8-inch strips you cut earlier, and sew them together to make a piano key border.

So that I didn’t have to deal with a very long border at one time, I split my strips into approximately 4 strips and pieced them together as I needed to to add to the quilt.


I used corner posts on mine.
First, add the piano key border to the short sides of your top.  Then we do some careful measuring. Put an 8-inch square onto one end of a piano key strip.  Then carefully lay it out, marking where you get to the other end where the other corner post will be.  

Trim the piano key border 1/4″ past the inner border, then sew on the other corner post.  Pin carefully so that your points line up.



Backing:
I love a pieced quilt back!


Here’s the backing fabric.  Isn’t it beautiful!  I used 5 yards of the backing fabric, but it was close!  So I’m suggesting 5 1/2 in the pattern. 



I had several leftover layer cake squares and I pieced them into the back with my leftover jelly roll pieces.


I took my leftovers and arranged them to be as large as the quilt top.  There are many ways to do this, but here’s mine:

I used the dark blue as my binding fabric, and it worked well. I think one of the solids would also be lovely.

To make your binding, cut 9 strips that are 2.5″ by the width of the fabric.



Quilt and bind as desired.  

A beautiful oversized-full sized quilt, measuring approximately 87″ x 96″.


I’m so pleased with the way it turned out. 


And pieced backs are so much fun!


Here’s a full shot….


And I made this cute butterfly pillow with my leftover scraps. 
For the pattern and more information on making the pillow, please visit my blog, Sewing in the Wendy City, for the full tutorial.

Thanks so much for reading.
Blessings to you–

Wendy Poling

Framed In Quilt



I can’t tell you how excited I am to be back to share with you all a fun quilt made using none other than the Fig Tree Quilts line of fabric, Strawberry Fields.  I always love Joanna’s lines of fabric for Moda but I’ve gotta admit that this line is one of my favorites!  And I am so in love with this quilt!  At the end of this tutorial I’ll show you two alternate layouts that completely change the look of the quilt–but all three quilts are made using one simple block.

I am so excited that Leah from Burgundy Buttons is offering an adorable Framed In quilt kit.  We all know how cute these are!  So, if you love this quilt as much as I do be sure to snatch up your kit! =)

After you have finished looking over my tutorial,  I would love if you would pop over onto my blog at Little Miss Shabby.  I have another quilt tutorial posted for a great quilt you can make using the leftover fabric from this quilt.  Enjoy!

1.25 yd. Ivory Beige Polka 20166-15
1.25 yd. Lg. Floral 20162-13
.75 yd. Red Gingham 20164-11
4 yd. Backing 20160-15
.5 yd. Binding Red Polka 20166-21
1 Fat 8th Bundle Strawberry Fields

-A 9″ Square piece of template plastic to square up your blocks

I chose to hand quilt my quilt–any of the layouts work beautifully for hand quilting.  If you’d like to hand quilt your quilt as well, you may wish to pick up some of the following Finca Perle Cotton (I used size 8).  A 10 gram ball of each is perfect.

1137–Yellow
1247–Red
1474–Pink
4812–Green
4350–Aqua
8017–Taupe

All seam allowances are 1/4″.
Begin by giving all of the fabrics in your fat 8th bundle a nice pressing.  Ironing wonderful new fabrics is always so much fun; way better than ironing clothes! =)  It’ll also provide you with better accuracy as you begin cutting the strips for your blocks.
Now you are ready to begin cutting the strips. 
We will be cutting the strips along the short side of the fat eighth–so your strips will be 9″ long–do not cut them along the 22″ side.
Cut the following from each fat eighth:
2 strips 2.5″ x 9″
2 strips 2″ x 9″
3 strips 1.5″ x 9″
Cut the following from the Beige Polka Dot:
6 strips 5.75 x WOF (width of fabric)
subcut into (36) 5.75″ squares & then cut in half diagonally once to make 72 triangles

We are now going to sew our strips together.  First, cut a small amount off of 1 strip of each size–a different amount for each width.  This way we won’t have to worry about our seams lining up when we sew our strip sets together.

Now we will start sewing together our strips–sewing same width strips to same width strips.
  
After sewing together several strips, iron seams to one side and trim the set to 13.25″.  Using the small pieces (you can see them pictured up above on the right side of the cut), continue sewing more strips together, stopping every so often to trim them down to 13.25″ and then keep going–always utilizing the whole strip.
Continue sewing together the strips and trimming to 13.25″ until you have sewn/trimmed all of the strips.  You will have twice as many 1.5″ strips–you will use two of them per block & only one per block of the 2″ width and 2.5″ width.
Now we will sew together four strips to make a rectangle strip set measuring 6″ x 13.25″.  Each rectangle block will consist of (1) 2″ x 13.25″ strip, (1) 2.5″ x 13.25″ strip, & (2) 1.5″ x 13.25″ strip.  Place the different widths randomly within the block.  You want them all to be different, scrappy, and fun.
Continue sewing together the strips until you have a total of 36.  Press seams to one side.  As you start sewing the last few blocks, you may find that you need a few extra 1.5″ strips–just trim down some of the wider strips as you should have extra of those. =)
To make the corner trimming template, cut a paper square 3″ and then cut diagonally once to make a triangle.  Tape the diagonal edge of the paper triangle to your rotary cutter as pictured and trim off each corner of each strip set rectangle.
We will now sew our corner triangles onto our strip set unit.

The triangle unit will extend beyond the strip set unit as shown.  Sew together using a 1/4″ seam allowance as pictured.

Press seams and voila! =)  Continue to finish all 36 blocks.
Now, these are some stretchy little blocks due to all of the bias edges and can very easily get ironed out of whack. =)  Because of this, I chose to square up my blocks before going any further.  To make a great template, take your 9″ piece of template plastic and draw a line diagonally from each corner forming an “x”.  Take a few of your finished quilt blocks and measure the width of the strip set in the middle (it should be 5.5″–if it is slightly larger or smaller, use your measurement).  Divide that measurement in half (if your measurement was 5.5″ that would be 2.75″).  Using this measurement draw a parallel line that distance from each side of one of the diagonals you made on the template initially–for example, 2.75″ on each side of the diagonal. 
You can use this template to square up all of your blocks–just line up the center strip set with your template and trim. =)  You will now have (36) wonderfully square 9″ blocks.
And now the fun part, deciding which layout you prefer:

This is the one that I chose–but, you could also go with a fun zig zag:

Or, this fun little number:

Once you have decided on your layout, sew together the quilt blocks accordingly.

Borders:

From the Red Gingham, cut 6 strips 2.5″ wide x WOF.  Sew the strips together, press seams open and cut two strips 54″ long and two strips 58″ long.  Sew to quilt top.

From the Floral cut cut 6 strips 4.5″ wide x WOF.  Sew the strips together, press seams open and cut two strips 58″ long and two strips 66″ long.  Sew to quilt top.

Your quilt is now ready to layer, quilt, and bind. =)  You will have extra fabric leftover–who doesn’t love extra fabric?!?  This quilt would be very easy to make larger if you wanted to by simply adding more quilt blocks or pop on over to my blog for another fun quilt to make with your leftover goodness (sneak peek below).

One fun, summery, perfect for a picnic, quilt measuring approximately 66″ x 66″.

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}

Windy Days Quilt


Hi! I’m Sarah of SarahB Designs and I’m so happy to bring you another fun Moda precut recipe! The classic pinwheel pattern is one of my favorites and my Windy Days Quilt is a fun twist on the classic! Small and large pinwheels spin around the entire quilt top in a tilted but symmetrical design!

Precut Fabric
1 charm pack of the fabric line of your choice, I’m using Just Wing It! by MoMo
2 Bella Solids charm packs in a coordinating color, I’m using White
Additional Fabric and Supplies
1¼ yards coordinating print for backing (or 1½ yards if adding border)
½ yard for coordinating print for binding
Rotary cutter, ruler and cutting mat
Fabric pencil or similar temporary fabric marker

I didn’t add a border, but if you would like to add a border to the quilt, you’ll need an extra 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric.

If you have a design wall, you’ll get to put it to use in this step! Before sewing, you need to choose if you want a scrappy look for the larger pinwheels or if you prefer each of the 4 triangles to be made of the same fabric. Not all fabric line charm packs will contain duplicate squares, but Just Wing It! has several, so that’s another design option you can consider. I prefer a scrappier look, so I chose a different charm square for each triangle of the large pinwheel.

Choosing fabric placement

The Just Wing It! charm pack includes duplicates of several of the narrow stripe prints, so you can choose do the large pinwheels all in the same print, or you can mix the narrow stripes in and make the pinwheels scrappy. Play with the design and see which look you prefer. I was placing all my pieces on the floor and you can see I stacked a white charm square under each print so I would have it handy when I picked everything up to sew. If you are using a design wall, you can simply pick up the background squares in the next step. (I had 6 printed charm squares and 3 solid charm squares left over.)

Once you are satisfied with the arrangement and have snapped a photo of it (to remember where the fabrics are placed), make and label the following 3 stacks:

• large pinwheels – 1/2 square triangles (there are 16 solid-print pairs for the scrappy look I show)
• small pinwheels – 1/4 square triangles (there are 20 solid-print pairs)
• background squares (there are 45)

Large Pinwheels

You will either have 8 (single-print pinwheel) or 16 (scrappy look) ½ square triangle units.

If your cutting mat has a diagonal line in addition to the grid, place 1 unit with the diagonal line running from one corner to the opposite corner. Place your ruler approximately 1/16” from the diagonal line (or where the diagonal line would be if one isn’t printed). This will allow room for your pencil or marker and allow you to mark an accurate line. I found it easier to mark from the center to the corner, then again from the center to the opposite corner to avoid stretching the fabric on the bias.

Repeat this marking process on 1 layer of all your ½ square triangle sets.

Your solid charm squares don’t have a right or wrong side, so with the right side of your printed charm square facing a solid, sew 1/4” on one side of your marked line, chain piecing as shown below.

Leaving your pieces attached, sew 1/4″ on the opposite side of your marked line of all the 1/2 square triangle sets. Take care not to stretch the fabric, as you are sewing on the bias.

Clip the threads between all the sets, then set the seams by pressing flat. With your ruler, rotary cut on your marked line. Press each triangle set open. Repeat.

Square up the 1/2 square triangle units to 4 ½”, taking care to keep the diagonal seam running corner to corner. To “square up” a block, trim just enough from two adjacent sides to make a perfect right angle, then turn the block to the opposite two adjacent sides where you will make sure the block measures 4 ½” and all corners are right angles.

Don’t create the large pinwheels yet! The quilt top construction will be a lot easier if these triangle blocks are left separate.

Small Pinwheels

This is a quick and easy trick! It might not follow the “old school” quilt rules, but it works, and it’s a handy way to make the most of your charm squares!

With the right side of your printed charm square to the inside, facing a solid, sew along all 4 sides of the square with a ¼” seam as shown below.

If you prefer to chain piece, as I do, use this method instead. With the right side of your printed charm square facing a solid, sew along one side of the square with a ¼” seam. Continue to sew one side of all the ¼ square triangle units, chain piecing. Without clipping threads between the pieces, sew along the opposite side of all the pieces, again chain piecing with a ¼” seam.

Now clip the threads between the squares and sew along another side of each, chain piecing. When you are done, sew along the other sides, again chain piecing.

Now it’s time to cut! Align your ¼ square unit on your cutting mat just as you did with the ½ square unit. I don’t mark my lines here, but if you are more comfortable cutting on a marked line, go ahead and draw it before cutting. 🙂 You will make two diagonal cuts to create 4 triangle units, as shown below.

Set your seam by pressing the triangle units before opening, then open and press flat. Square up each unit to 2 ½”, taking care to keep the diagonal seam running corner to corner.

Create the pinwheels by placing the small triangle units all in the same manner. Each pinwheel should have the same background/print arrangement. Chain piece unit pairs, clip each pinwheel set and press toward the print.

Next, sew the matching pairs together to complete the small pinwheel block.

Press the small pinwheel units open. If you unsew 1 or 2 stitches on the back of the block you will be able to press the block nice and flat, getting a mini-pinwheel in the back.

Trimming Background Blocks

Trim the solid charm blocks you’ve set aside to 4 ½” square. You can trim ½” from 2 adjacent sides or remove all the pinked edges, whichever you prefer.

Arranging the Blocks

Using the photo you took before you started sewing as a placement guide, arrange your small pinwheel blocks, the large pinwheel triangle units and the trimmed background blocks on your design wall or and large flat surface.

Chain piece each vertical column set and don’t clip the threads between blocks as shown below. The threads will act help keep all the blocks in the order you’ve placed them in as the top is pieced together.  

For the 1st column of blocks, press seams down. For the 2nd, press seams upward. Continue sewing pairs of block columns together and alternating the you direction you press so seams will lock together nicely in the next steps.

Once the 4 column pairs sets are stitched, sew the edge column (set 5 in the photo) to the adjacent set and stitch all the sets together in the same manner. Pin adjacent columns together to ensure seams match up. The bias edges on the small pinwheels will stretch a bit, so that can help you match the corners.

The final step to finish the quilt top is sewing all the horizontal seams. All the blocks are already attached, so just use pins where necessary to ensure nicely matched seams. Sew the rows together and your quilt top is done!

If you want to add a border, cut the coordinating fabric you’ve chosen into four 3½” strips, removing the selvages. Add to your quilt top.

Quilt Back


This quilt top is small enough that you can certainly use a single length of fabric as the backing (if you aren’t using a longarm machine to quilt it). However, I love the look of a pieced back, and we have a nice stack of leftover ½ square triangle units just begging to be used!

To ensure your backing is large enough for longarm quilting or to accommodate the optional border, use the remaining solid charm squares and your choice of leftover printed charms. Sew a few additional ½ square triangles, and trim those down to 4½”. (I used a few of the printed charms that were almost white as solids, and placed them at either end since I wanted to make sure my back was large enough for the longarm quilter to work with. I was able to trim those scrap/filler pieces off after quilting.)

For my back, I chose to split the backing fabric vertically down the center and use the large ½ square triangle units to form a zigzag pattern. If you didn’t trim all the leftover ½ square triangles to 4½” earlier, do so now, just as in the quilt top step.

Arrange the ½ square triangle units in a pleasing pattern and chain piece by sewing down the vertical line. Press the center seam alternately to the left and right. Then sew each pair set together, taking care to match the seams. (The pressed seams will help lock the points in place.)

Center one piece of the backing fabric on the pieced zigzag strip and sew it on with a ¼” seam. Attach the other piece of the backing fabric on the pieced strip, taking care to align it with the first. (It’s fine if the pieced inset isn’t the same length; after quilting it will be trimmed down.)

I centered my zigzag pieced strip, but an off-center pieced strip would make for a really interesting quilt backing too!

Finishing the quilt

Layer your quilt top, batting and quilt back. Quilt as desired. I chose to send mine to be professional longarm quilter, Paula Stout of Porch Quilts. She quilted it with “angel wings” that matched the butterflies you can see in the Just Wing It! print I chose for the backing. I am so pleased with the result!

You can use straight-of-grain binding to finish the quilt, but since I chose a stripe I decided to make the most of it and cut it on the bias.

I truly love the back of this quilt as much as the front!


One 36-1/2″ square quilt, perfect for a baby quilt or child’s lap quilt. (If border is added, quilt will be larger.)

Sarah Meyer
{SarahB Designs}