Sunkissed By Spring Quilt


Who is ready for spring???  I can sure say I am.  It’s me, Melissa Corry and I am so excited to bring you this tutorial.  I just loved working with the beautiful Sunkissed prints designed by Sweetwater. They brightened my snow filled days and have me looking forward to seeing flowers again 🙂

Do you have a bed that needs a new spring inspired quilt, or a splash of Spring to snuggle up in? Then click on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has created an exclusive Sunkissed by Spring Quilt Kit just for you at a discounted price!  And wait, that’s not all.  This kit comes with a special bonus . . .  A quilt label designed by the amazing Sweetwater team.  Isn’t that just awesome?!?!

And of course, if you have any questions you can reach me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com. Oh, and feel free to stop by my little sewing stomping grounds  www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com to see what I am up to. I love visitors. Happy Quilting to you all!

QUILT TOP
1 Sunkissed Layer Cake
1 Moda Bella Solids White Charm Pack
2 Yards Bella Solid White
1/4 Yard each of the following 5 prints – Picnic Plaid in Limeade, Lemonade,  Orangesicle, Pink Sorbet and Mist.   (5447-11, 5447-12, 5447-13, 5447-14, 5447-15)
Twelve 10″ x 10″ squares of Heat N Bond

BINDING
3/4 Yard of Multi Raindrops ( 5442-16) cut into eight 2 1/2″ x WOF strips.

BACKING
4 Yards of Ivory Meadow Sweet (5444-16) cut into two 2 yard pieces and sewn together at the selvage end.

STEP 1 – CUTTING


Grab your 5 Picnic Plaid pieces.  Lay the first piece on your mat.  Cut a nice straight edge and then measure over 8 inches and cut the entire width of the fabric creating an 8″ strip. 

Now trim the selvage off the top of your strip.  Measure down 8″ and cut on the horizontal line to create (2) 8″ squares.  Now measure down another 8″ and cut again for 2 more 8″ squares.  A total of four 8″ squares.  You will have a little scrap left over.  (I used these to make a pillowcase to match).  Repeat with the other 4  prints so you have a total of twenty 8″ squares.  Wonderful!!

Now onto your white yardage.  First we are going to be cutting 4 1/4″ squares.  We need 80.  So I did these in 2 sets of 4 strips.  Cut four 4 1/4″ strips without moving them after cutting.  Now line your ruler up along the horizontal 21 1/2″ horizontal line on your mat.  Now you probably don’t have a 21 1/2″ line on your mat, so line your 1/2 mark on your ruler with the 21″ line on your mat. This should make your ruler edge now at 21 1/2″. This is a handy little trick you will be using a lot 🙂  Go ahead and cut horizontally, trimming off your selvage edge. 

Now measure down 4 1/4″  so that you are lining up along 17 1/4″ and cut.  Continue measuring down 4 1/4″ and cutting 4 more times.  (Lining up along 13″, 8 3/4″, 4 1/2″, 1/4″).  You now have 40 squares, 1/2 of what you need.  So cut another four 4 1/4″ strips and repeat.  Now you have 80 squares.  Perfect!!!

Now all you have left is to cut the sashing.  We’ll start with the small pieces.  Cut 8 strips 1 1/2″ wide x WOF.

Trim the selvage edge off of the top.  Now measure down 15 1/2″ and cut.  You will be using 15 of the 16 strips you just cut.  Set one in scrap along with the small strip sets left under you ruler 🙂

Now onto our longer sashing.  Cut three 1 1/2″ x WOF strips.  Now trim the selvage on the top and slice the tiniest bit you can off the bottom to make 6 strips instead of 3.

Last of the cutting.  Cut 10 more 1 1/2″ x WOF strips.  Trim the selvages off the top.

Okay, so trust me, when you get to adding your sashing you are going to be so excited you will just want to hurry and finish.  So we are going to put the sashing together now so they are ready to go. Grab your six 1 1/2″ x 21″ish pieces along with 6 WOF strips.  Now place a WOF strip right sides together with a 21″ish strip and sew a 1/4″ seam along the bottom to make a 65″ ish strip.  Repeat with all 6 sets.

Lastly, grab your remaining four 1 1/2″ X WOF strips and sew them together into two sets of 2 just like above creating two 87″ish strips.  And you’re done with cutting!!!!



STEP 2 – QUARTER SQUARE TRIANGLES


Grab your beautiful Sunkissed layer cake and open it up 🙂  Isn’t that fun!!!  Separate your prints into the following groups.  You have 5 sets that have 4 base colors and 2 white with the base color in it. The remaining 12 prints will be used for appliqué.  You will also be using 8 squares of your Moda Bella Solids White charm pack for each set.

I found it easiest to work with one color group at a time.  I started with pink at my daughter’s request. Match up your blocks in 4 sets of 2 that are placed right sides together.  Make sure to leave the White base prints on top, including laying out your 4 charm squares to make a “white layer cake”.

Now go ahead and draw a vertical line down the center of the layer cake set.  (5″ in) and then a horizontal line down the center (5″ in) as well.  You will not have to mark the Charm Pack sets, obviously).  I used a water soluble marker but you can just use a pen if you don’t have one.

Now mark a diagonal line from corner to corner across each of the 4 squares you just drew.  Repeat this for all 4 sets.   Yes, you need to mark the charm pack ones this time 🙂

This is how your 4 sets should look now 🙂  You with me? Okay, lets move on 🙂

Go ahead and place a pin along the outer and inner edge of each line.  Leave enough space for your presser foot to pass by without having to remove the pins – this just saves a bit of time 🙂

Now you are ready to sew your sets.  Start at the top of your block.  Line the 1/4″ line on your presser foot (mine is just inside the edge of my foot, if that helps)  along the drawn line.  Now sew a 1/4″ seam along the outside of your drawn line.  Continue off the edge of the fabric.  No need to clip your threads, just pivot and continue on until you have sewn all 4 outer seams.  Repeat for your other 3 sets.

Now you are ready to sew the inner seam.  Start 1/4″ in from the edge of your fabric.  Once again line your 1/4″ line on your presser foot up with your drawn line (My foot has a line on both sides. If yours doesn’t, just go the opposite direction so you can keep things lined up and sew your 1/4″ seam along the inside of your drawn line).  This time, stop when you reach the drawn line or the edge of your charm square.  Pivot and continue on until you have sewn all 4 seams.  Repeat with your remaining 3 sets.

Now the sewing part is done and you are ready to cut your pieces.  Make when cutting that you do not pick up any of your pieces until all of the cutting is finished 🙂  Start by cutting along the center horizontal and vertical lines.

Now line your ruler up along the diagonal line you drew through each of the four squares.  Cut right along the line in all 4 squares.

Lastly, line your ruler up diagonally from end-to-end of your block.  There is no line, but check to make sure you are lined up through the center of the lines you have already cut.  Cut from corner-to-corner.  Now turn your ruler and cut diagonally again from the other corner.  Repeat with your remaining 3 sets.

Now you have 16 two piece triangles from each set.  Press them to the dark side.  (I can’t say that without thinking of Star Wars.)

And there you have it.  All the pieces you need to make your blocks.  Go back up to the top of the Quarter Square Triangles and repeat the process for each of the remaining 4 colorways.  Whew, that took a little while 🙂  Now place sixteen 4 1/4″ white squares and the 4 color coordinated 8″ squares with their triangles sets.  You are ready to start putting your blocks together!!!   Yippee Skippee!!!



STEP 3 – MAKING THE BLOCK


Once again, I found it easiest to do one color set at a time here.   And once again, my daughter requested pink 🙂  Start by grouping your triangles.  There should be 8 similar triangles and 8 opposite triangles of each set.  Now group them together into sets of 2.  Make sure that your groups each have a solid white 1/4 triangle and a background white 1/4 triangle.  I kept my opposite groups the same. Sorry, I know this sounds confusing but just follow the picture and you will be fine 🙂

Now we are going to sew our triangle sets into squares.  There will be 8 sets of 4 different blocks.  I am only going to show one so you can keep track but you can go ahead and do all of the eight at the same time.  Line your blocks up as follows.  Make sure your “whites” are opposite each other, otherwise you have mixed something up 😉

Now place them right sides together and pin making sure to “nest” your center seam.

Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of your triangle blocks.  Chain stitch all of your pieces this way.  Meaning, once you have finished one, don’t clip your threads.  Just keep feeding them through until you have sewn them all.

Now clip your threads between your pieces.  Press your seams.  I pressed in one direction but there were some bulky areas, so if you don’t like dealing with that you might want to press your seams open. Clip the little tails on the 4 corners of your blocks 🙂

So now you are here  (except that you should have all squares and no more triangles.)  Notice that you are keeping the same prints on top in each set, the color triangles are just in reverse order.

Lay your top block onto your bottom block and pink along the center.  Once again, make sure that you see the same prints on top in both sets 🙂  Repeat for all of your pieces. Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge of your pieces.  Clip your threads between pieces and press.

Now your blocks are to this point and you are ready to layout your block.  Are you getting excited??? There will be 2 layouts, as you have 2 different sets of blocks.  (They are super similar, just opposite colored triangle placement.)  You will be making 2 blocks of each layout.  So sort your pieces and lay them out as follows.

Now, the fun part 🙂  Lay your 4 1/4″ blocks on top of your horizontal pieces rectangle with right sides together, one on each end.  Pin.  Repeat for all of your horizontal pieced rectangles.  Now chain stitch a 1/4″ seam, clip your threads, and press out to the white.

Now with the horizontal pieces done, you are ready to move on the vertical ones.  Lay your vertical pieced rectangles along the sides of your 8″ center square with right sides together. To make sure you still have the right layout, check that the white print triangles are lined up with the edge of your center block. Pin along the edge.  Chain stitch your 1/4″ seam along all the pieces, clip your threads between pieces and press towards your center block.

So now you are here and you should have 4 blocks (2 of each layout) at this point.  Are you still with me? Awesome!!!  You almost have your blocks all put together 🙂

Go ahead and lay your now pieced top and bottom rows of your block onto your center row.  Once again, your white print blocks should be lined up with the edge of your center blocks.  Go ahead and pink, making sure to match up your seams where the arrows point.  You know what is next.  Sew your 1/4″ seam along both sides of your block, clip threads, and press 🙂

And there you have it!!  4 beautiful “sunshine” blocks that just warm your heart!!  Go back to the beginning of the Making the Blocks step and repeat the process for your remaining 4 color ways.





STEP 4 – APPLIQUÉ


This is the part of the quilt that gives each its own uniqueness and really makes it pop!!!  Grab your 12 remaining layer cake pieces that you set aside at the beginning.  On the wrong side of each print fuse a square of Heat N Bond.  Now go ahead and draw some flowers onto the paper side of the Heat N Bond.  There is a template attached for the flowers I used but feel free to create your own.  I tried to get 4 to 5 flowers out of each cake slice. 

Go ahead and cut out your flowers.  You don’t have to cut out the centers if you don’t want, I just added that so I could mix the colors up a bit 🙂

Lay your flowers out on the center of your blocks.  This is where you get to be creative so do what you like!!!  I made cluster’s of 2 and 3.  When you have a layout you like iron them on and then permanently attach them by stitching around your appliqué.  I did a zig-zag around the centers and a blanket stitch around the outside in coordinating colors 🙂

And there you have your blocks!!  Don’t they just Sing Spring!!! I just love them!!!





STEP 5 – PUTTING THE TOP TOGETHER


Now that your blocks are all finished, you are ready to sew your quilt top together.  Layout your quilt with 4 blocks across and 5 blocks down.  This is the layout I liked but you do what looks good to your eye 🙂  Once you have a layout you like, make sure to have a way to get back to it.  I either mark my edges with pins or I just take a picture of it to refer back to. 

To start, you need to attach a small sashing piece to the right hand side of the first three blocks of each row.  So grab your 15 small sashing pieces (15 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ white strips) and lay them along the right hand side of your designated blocks.  There really ins’t a need to pin but you can if you like.  Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all 15 blocks and then clip your threads and press towards the sashing.

So this is what your rows should look like now.  Ready to be sewn together.

Lay your block 2 onto your block 1 with right sides together and your block 4 onto your block 3 with right sides together.  Pin along the edges.  Repeat for all 5 rows.

Now sew 1/4″ seam, clip your threads and press.  Your rows should now look like this.  Just one seam left 🙂

Lay your now sewn together blocks 3 and 4 onto your now sewn together blocks 1 and 2.  Once again Pin along the edge.  Repeat for all 5 rows.  Sew a 1/4″ seam, clip your threads, and press toward the sashing.  And whala!! Your rows are complete.  (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of the completed rows 🙂

So now with your rows complete you are going to sew them together.  This is the exact same process of sewing the rows together, just on a larger, longer scale.   We start by adding sashing.  Grab your six long sashing strips (65″ ish x 1 1/2″ white strips) and lay them right sides together along the top of each row and one final strip along the bottom of your 5 row.  Make sure you are right sides together, you do have a seam in there 🙂  Once again, no need to pin, just line up as you go.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge, trim the excess fabric from your sashing, and press.

Now we simply sew our rows together, just like before but once again, on a longer scale.  Lay row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Lay row 3 onto row 4 with right sides together.  Make sure to line up the seams.  You will have to do this by feel as you are pinning to sashing but it is important to make sure your vertical sashing strips are going to end up lined up 🙂  Do the center sashing first, and then move out to the side sashings 🙂  Sew your 1/4″ seam along your two pinned lines and press.

Now repeat the same process by first laying row 5 onto the now sewn together row 3 and 4 with right sides together.  Line up your seams, pin, sew, and press.  Then last but not least.  Lay your now sewn together rows 1 and 2 onto your now sewn together rows 3, 4, and 5, pin, sew, and press.  You are here now, only one thing left 🙂  This is so exciting!!!

Grab your finial 2 sashing strips.  The super long ones. (87″ish x 1 1/2″).  Lay one along each side of your quilt with right sides together.  Once again, double check you don’t have a raw seam that is going to show.  Sew a 1//4″ seam along the sides, trim the excess sashing, and press.

And there you have it!!!  Your quilt top is finished!!!  Isn’t it just Marvelous!!!





STEP 5 – FINISHING YOUR QUILT


To make your backing, take your 4 yards and cut it into two, 2 yard pieces.  Now place it right sides together and sew along the selvage edge.  Make sure to give it a good pressing before 🙂

So you are ready to put it together now.   First – make your quilt sandwich. It really helps to tape your backing down onto a wood floor.  Now go ahead and baste the sandwich, seriously the more pins the better.

Now onto quilting.  I quilted this on my my little Bernina so it can be done on a regular sewing machine.  I choose to do some custom quilting with coordinating color small loops in the blocks and then white loops with flowers in the sashing.   If you are new to quilting, there are tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting, just Google it and practice or you can always just send it out to be quilted.  There are some amazing long arm quilters out there 🙂  

Last but not least, binding.  Grab your 3/4″ binding print and cut it into eight 2 1/2″ strips.  If you are not sure on how to make a binding or attach it there is a great tutorial  here .

And you are done!!  Way to go!  Don’t you just love it!!!!





One absolutely adorable spring time quilt measuring appx. 65 x 81.

Now sit back and Snuggle up with your amazing creation!!   Oh, and while you are enjoying head over to my Happy Quilting Tutorial’s Flickr page to upload your quilt. I would love to see your work!  Happy Quilting!!

Melissa Corry
{www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com}

Charming Wine Gift Bags


Hi! My name is Jen, owner/designer of ReannaLily Designs, and this is my first recipe here at the Moda Bake Shop.  I had a blast in the kitchen whippin’ up a batch of Wine Gift Bags.  The bags fit a standard 750mL wine bottle, but might be great for a bubble bath gift basket, as well.

This project uses just a few supplies and makes up 4 Gift Bags.  They are each unique, scrappy, and original. These would make wonderful garden party centerpieces. 

1 Charm Pack (Fresh Flowers By Deb Strain)
7/8 yard coordinating solid (30’s Yellow)
Rotary cutting supplies
Hand sewing needle and thread

20″ length of assorted ribbons

Step 1: Sort and Prepare the Fabrics

Open and sort the charm pack into 4 stacks of 9 charm squares each.  Fresh Flowers has 4 colorways, so this project is sorted by color. You will have 6 charm squares left over.

NOTE:  This tutorial will yield 4 gift bags.  For photo reasons, we are working on only one.

 Cut the 9 squares in half.  You will then have 18″ rectangles measuring 2 1/2″ x 5 for each bag.

Cut the Bella Solid lining into 4 rectangles measuring each, 12 1/2″ x 14″.

Step 2: Build the Wine Gift Bag Exterior

Arrange the rectangles into 3 rows with 6 rectangles each.  The project should look scrappy and random.  You’ll want to make sure that no two like fabrics are touching. Pay attention because when the bag is complete, the fabrics on the right hand side will be joined to the left hand side.

Use a 1/4″ seam allowance to join pairs of rectangles to form rows.

Keep them in order.

Step 3: Press and Join the Rows

Press in the direction of the arrows below.  This will allow your seams to “lock” when you join the rows together.

Join the rows to complete the exterior of the wine gift bag.  The finished exterior should measure 12 1/2″ x 14″.

Step 4: Apply the Lining

Lay the right side of the lining onto the right side of the wine bag exterior.  Match the 12 1/2″ sides along the top edge.  Join the two pieces using a 1/4″ seam allowance along this edge.

Open the seam and press the seam allowances towards the solid.  Edge-stitch along the solid lining fabric.

Fold the long rectangle in half lengthwise, matching the exterior side seams.

On the solid lining end of the long tube, measure in from each side 2″.  Mark this location with a water soluble pen.  The distance in between the marks will remain unstitched.
Sew around the bag, skipping the opening, using a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Sew completely across the short exterior fabric end.

Step 5: Create the Bag Shaping Darts in the Lining

Match the bag bottom seam with the side seam to form a triangle.  Pin the triangle in place.  Measure from the tip of the triangle along the stitched line 1 1/4″.  Make a mark.

Draw a line perpendicular to the seam line, along the mark.  Stitch on the line.  Repeat this for the remaining corner of the bag lining.

This will create the bag shaping darts.  Remove the excess triangle fabric 1/4″ past the stitching line.

Step 6: Turn the Bag Right Side Out

Turn the bag right side out through the narrow opening in the bag lining.

Push the corners of the exterior fabric to a nice crisp point.

Tuck the seam allowances of the lining opening into the opening and pin. You may either stitch this by hand to give a more invisible look, or edge stitch the opening closed as shown.  (below)

Step 7: Finishing the Bag Exterior

Similar to the lining bag shaping dart, lay the side seam on the lower edge seam to form a triangle at each exterior corner.  Pin this triangle shape.

 Also, like the lining bag shaping darts, mark 1 1/4″ along the seam line, measured from the point.  Draw a line perpendicular to the seam at this point.  Stitch across the line.  Repeat for the other corner.  DO NOT CUT OFF THE EXCESS TRIANGLE.  Instead….

Consider the three decorative options pictured (below)
1. {red} Leave the triangle as it is.
2. {orange} Fold the triangle up and hold it in place with a decorative button.
3. {green} Fold the triangle up and stitch it in place with a small, hand-sewn tack stitch.

Pictured below:  Small hand stitched tack stitch, behind the triangle as it’s folded on the side of the bag.

Once the sides are finished, the bag is complete.  Fill it with the bottled gift of your choice, fold the lining down to form a cuff and secure it with decorative ribbon.


4 Wine Gift Bags

Jen Eskridge
{ReannaLily Designs}

Summer Dreamin’


Hi there! It’s me again, Kaye from Miss Print! I’m so happy to be back here at the Bake Shop with my second tutorial. It’s getting pretty cold here in many parts of the northern hemisphere, so why not make a quilt to remind yourself of the beautiful colours and warm evenings of summer? This is a quilt to snuggle, cuddle, and dream under.

2 layers cakes – I used Dream On by Urban Chiks
1 bella solids layer cake – I used Snow
4 7/8 yards for backing – I used Groovy in Blue Moon from Dream On
7/8 yard for binding – I used Old School in Grass from Dream On

Select 20 squares from each of your Dream On layer cakes – the 20 squares from each layer cake should be matching, as you will need 2 matching printed squares to complete each block. You will also need 40 of the squares from your solid layer cake for a total of 80 layer cake squares.

Divide your layer cake squares into piles containing your two matching printed squares and two solid squares – these four squares will be the basis for each block.

The following directions are for one block:

On the backside of each solid square, draw a line down the middle from each point (i.e. top right point to bottom left point, and top left point to bottom right point) so that you have an X traversing the whole of the square.

Pair up one solid square and one printed square right sides together. On both sides of the lines you just drew, sew a 1/4″ seam.

Now it’s time to cut your square – this will yield 8 half square triangles (HSTs):

Do not cut down your diagonal lines quite yet. Cut your square in half so that you are left with two 10×5″ pieces.

Now cut each 10×5″ piece in half so that you are left with four 5×5″ pieces.

Cut down the diagonal line on each 5×5″ square. Press your seams toward the printed fabric.

Repeat with your remaining solid and printed square. Each finished HST should measure 4.5″ square (trim if necessary).

Lay out your 16 HSTs as shown in the picture below.

Sew your HSTs together row by row.

Sews the rows together to form your block. Look at that… your block is done! Your block should now measure 16.5″ square (to finish at 16″ square).

Repeat the above steps with the rest of your block piles.

Lay your blocks out in a 4×5 grid and sew into rows. Now sew your rows together and your quilt top is done!

Sandwich, baste, quilt, bind and you’re done!

 Finished quilt will measure 64×80″.

Since there are enough printed layer cake squares left to make a second quilt (obviously you will need to double the rest of the ingredients), why not swap squares with a friend so that you can each make two quilts but with different fabrics? Or get a little funky and incorporate some of your extra squares into a pieced back? I’m sure you won’t be short on ideas for how to use that awesome leftover yumminess!

Kaye Prince
{Miss Print}

Sunkissed Squares

Guess who, Moda Bake Shoppers? It’s me again, KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy, bringing you another tutorial! Actually, two tutorials! Woo Hoo!!

I’m really excited about this quilt because the idea came from a pillow I made for a pillow swap and I turned it into a quilt! It looks complicated but it’s really quite simple to put together and I also show you how to make the pillow! 🙂

Leah from Burgundy Buttons is also kitting this for you so hop on over HERE and grab it up quick!! Kits always sell out fast and I’d hate for you to miss out! 🙂 As an added bonus, Sweetwater has designed a label for this quilt and it will be included in the kit! How awesome is that??!!

Presenting…. Sunkissed Squares…

1 Fat Eighth bundle of Sunkissed
4 yards total of background fabric (includes enough for pillow)
4 1/2 yards for backing
1 yard for binding (8 strips @ 2.5″ x wof)
batting
thread to piece and quilt your project with

**all seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise noted
**FE = Fat Eighth
**WOF = width of fabric
**BG= background

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I am going to show you how to make one section of this quilt, step by step. You will need to make a total of FOUR sections to complete the quilt, or stop at one and make a really cute baby quilt. 🙂
1.  Choose 5 dark prints from your FE bundle. I chose one from each colorway (yellow, orange, pink, gray, and green)
2.  Iron each piece really well.
3.  From 4 of the FE pieces, we need to cut the following:
* 1 @ 2.5″ x 14.5″
* 4 @ 2.5″ x 6.5″
* 1 @ 2.5″ x 4.5″
* 1 @ 2.5″ x 2.5″
I cut 3 strips along the 22″ edge at 2.5″ wide, then sub cut them into the above pieces.  These will be the 4 outer squares of the block.
I also stacked 4 FE pieces and cut all of the above at once. 🙂
4.  From the 5th FE piece, we need to cut the following:
* 2 @ 2.5″ x 14.5″
* 2 @ 2.5″ x 10.5″
I cut 3 strips along the 22″ edge at 2.5″ wide then sub cut them into the above pieces.  These will be the inner square of the block. 
5.  From the white background fabric, cut:

(This is ALL the white that needs to be cut for the blocks. If you only do one for a baby quilt, you just divide it by 4.)

–for the blocks
* cut  3 strips 10.5″ wide. Sub cut into 16 @ 6.5 x 10.5
* cut 2 strips 6.5″ wide. Sub cut into 16 @ 4.5 x 6.5
* cut 1 strip 2.5″ wide. Sub cut into 16 @ 2.5 x 2.5
* cut 1 strip 2.5″ wide. Sub cut into 8 @ 2.5 x 4.5
* cut 1 strip at 2.5″ wide. Sub cut into 4 @ 2.5 x 10.5
* cut 4 strips a 2.5″ wide. Sub cut into 16 @ 2.5 x 8.5
–for the “sashing”
* 2 @ 2.5″ x WOF (block dividers for large quilt)
* 2 @ 2.5″ x WOF  – piece these together for the top and bottom half dividers for large quilt
Making the block:
NOTE:: As you go through these steps, keep your colors in the same quadrants for each step . Example: I am using gray in the upper left quadrant, green in the upper right quadrant, orange in the lower left quadrant, and yellow in the lower right quadrant. Keep these positions throughout.
1.  First we make the inside of the inside square.  My inside square will be pink in this tutorial.
2.  With each of the colors for the outside block, we need to essentially make 4 patches.
3.  Lay out the 2.5″ x 2.5″ white pieces with the 2.5″ x 2.5″ print piece. Then add the 2.5″ x 4.5″ piece as shown in the photo below. 
4.  Sew the 2.5″ x 2.5″ pieces together. Press. Then sew the 2.5″ x 4.5″ to those. Make sure you pay attention to how they are sewn together. Otherwise you may end up with upside down pieces. 
5.  Sew a white BG piece measuring 2.5″ x 4.5″ between each set of 4 patches. Press to print. 
6.  Sew a white BG piece measuring 2.5″ x 10.5″ in between these two sets you just made. Press to print. 
Note: I say press to print because of the white fabric. I don’t want my seams showing through after I quilt it. You could also press them open or do what you are comfortable with. 🙂
7.  Using the FE pieces you cut for your center square, add these as a border. Add the pieces measuring 2.5″ x 10.5″ to each top and bottom. Press. Then add the pieces measuring 2.5″ x 14.5″ to the left and right. 
8. This piece should measure 14.5″ square.
9.  Set that piece aside.
10.  Now we need to make two more sections per color for the outside squares.
11.  Take a 10.5″ x 6.5″ white BG piece and add a 2.5″ x 6.5″ print piece on either side. Sew the print pieces to either side and press to the print. Repeat for each color. 
12.  Place the print piece measuring 14.5″ x 2.5″, matching the colors as shown in the photo below.  Press to print.  (sorry, I forgot to take a picture after I pressed, but you get the idea) 🙂
13.  Sew a white BG piece measuring 2.5. x 8.5 in between the two sets. Remember to keep your colors in the respective corners. Press to print. Set aside. 
 14.  Using your 4.5″ x 6.5″ white BG pieces, sew a 2.5″ x 6.5″ print piece to two sides, as shown below. Press to print.
15.  Sew a white BG piece measuring 2.5″ x 8.5″ in between top and bottom pieces as shown below.  Press to print. 
16.  Now the magic happens. 🙂
17.  Lay out your pieces as such…
18.  Sew the side pieces to the center, being careful to match your seams. If you have a consistent 1/4″ seam, you should not have an issue here.  Then sew on the top and bottom pieces. Press well. 
19.  Voila.  You have your first quarter block. 🙂
20.  Repeat steps 1-20 three more times. 
Sashing:
1.  Sew one sashing strip to the right side of the upper left quadrant.  Trim excess fabric from ends. Press. 
2.  Sew the upper right quadrant to the sashing strip. Take care to line up your “squares” as you sew. You will have to lift up your fabric to match.
3.  Repeat for the two bottom quadrants. 
4.   Sew two sashing pieces together lengthwise to form one long sashing strip. Sew this to the bottom of the top section. Trim excess fabric from ends. Press. 
5.  Sew the bottom section to the top section, again carefully matching seams of the squares. Press.
Borders:
1.  Cut 8 strips that measure 4.5″ x WOF from the leftover background fabric. Sew into 4 pairs.
2.  Add border to left and right sides. Press. Trim excess border fabric from ends. Add the border pieces to the top and bottom. Press. Trim excess border fabric from ends.

Now all that is left is to sandwich your quilt with your favorite batting, quilt it, bind it, and throw it in the wash so it gets all squishy! 🙂

Before washing, your quilt should measure approximately 70″ square.

You’re probably wondering about that pillow too?

If you’d like to make this pillow to match, there is a bonus tutorial included in the Printer Friendly Version…

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please oh please share it with me? You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE.  I would love to feature them on my blog! 🙂

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

A Very Morris Piano Runner




I am always glad to be baking at Moda. From my quilting kitchen today, I have gathered the savoury tastes of William Morris and baked a piano runner.

For this project you will need:

  • 2 x ‘A Morris Tapestry’ Charm Packs by Barbara Brackman
  • 1/2 yard of dark blue fabric for border and binding
  • 1/4 yard for peeper border
  • 1/2 yard wideback fabric 60″
  • Fusible Webbing
  • Wadding
  • Template Plastic


Step 1 – Sorting the charms

  • From the two packs choose twenty four (24) dark / medium charm squares
  • From the two packs choose twenty four (24) medium / light charm squares
Medium / Dark set
Medium / Light set

Step 2 – Create the background

  • From the medium / dark squares, sew two (2) rows of twelve (12) squares each
  • Press open the seams
  • Join the two (2) rows together to make the twenty four (24) square background

Step 3 – Prepare the applique leaves

  • Make a template by drawing on a piece of light cardboard or heavy weight paper a 6″ line. Mark the midpoint at 3″. Next, divided the line into sections at 1 1/2″ intervals either side of the midpoint. At the midpoint draw a 2 1/2″ line across (equal distance on both sides of 1 1/4″s). At the other points draw a 2″ line (equal distance of 1″ on both sides). Carefully draw the outer leaf shape on one side only. Fold in half, cut along the line and fold out. Voila, a perfect leaf shape. Now trace it onto template plastic and you have a leaf template.
  • Select pairs of the medium / light squares.
  • Place a pair right side together and draw one line from corner to corner.
  • Sew either side of the line using 1/4″ seam allowance.
  • Cut on the pencil line to yield two (2) half triangle squares.

  • Press the seams open and leave the tails. (There is not much room for error when fusing the leaf to the block)
  • Trace the leaf shape onto the back of the fusible webbing
  • Cut around the leaf shape leaving a 1/8″ allowance.
  • Accurately lay the leaf (adhesive side down) on wrong side of block and line up the centre along the seam line. Make sure the leaf is on the fabric and press down with iron set on recommended heat setting for fusible product. I suggest using baking paper to avoid any adhesive getting on the ironing surface.
  •  Cut along the trace line of the leaf and voila, your first leave. Repeat Step 3 until you have made twenty four (24) leaves.



Step 4 – Applique leaves to background

  • Each leaf will be placed on a square as shown below. Make sure the the centre point is exactly where the blocks intersect at the seams  and the outer tip is in lined up with outer corner. There should be a 1/4″ allowance between the outer point of the leaf and the corner.



Step 5 – Applique

  • Machine applique around each leaf. I have used a very small stitch in a neutral colour. A decorative or raw edge finish would also enhance the block.

    Step 6 – Adding Borders 

    Border 1

    • Cut four (4) x 1 1/2″ strips WOF of border fabric
    • Measure through the centre of the runner lengthways and add  border to top and bottom.
    • Measure top to bottom and add side borders.

    Peeper Border

    • Cut four (4) x 1″ strips WOF of peeper fabric
    • Press in half lengthways
    • Measure through the centre of the runner lengthways and add peeper border to top and bottom.
    • Measure top to bottom and add side peeper borders.
    Using a longer stitch, sew 1/8″ from edge so that the stitching line is hidden when binding is attached.

    Step 7 – Quilting and Binding the Runner

    • Layer the backing (right side down), wadding and quilt top together. Baste and quilt as desired.
    • Cut four (4) 2 1/4″ strips from the WOF (width of the fabric).
    • Sew binding strips together using a 45 degree angle.
    • Press in half lengthwise and sew to runner.
    • Cut back backing, and wadding layer to a scant 1/4″. (Be careful not to cut quilt top and binding)
    • Fold binding over to the back and stitch in place.


    One very Morris Piano Runner.


    ….. and I used the left over charms to make a piano stool cover.



    (P.S Alternatively, use the leftover charms to make the runner backing or get more fabric and make a quilt)

    Finished Block 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
    Finished Runner Size approx. 56 1/2″ x 11 1/2″

    Jane Davidson
    {quiltjane.blogspot.com}

    Sunny Trails Quilt



    Hello!  I am so very excited to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop tutorial!  I have been sewing and making quilts since I was 20 or so but have more recently stumbled upon the online quilting community.

    I started my blog Little Miss Shabby and I have been having a blast.  I’ve been so inspired by all the wonderful bloggers/designers/great quilty people– I wanted to share a bit of my “fun” with you! Who loves some yummy Moda fabric… me, me, me!! =)  Sweetwater’s fantastic line of fabric, Sunkissed, is such a perfect and fun collection to play with that I just couldn’t resist.  So without further ado…”Sunny Trails.”

    **All seams are to be sewn with a 1/4″ seam allowance

    1 Sunkissed Layer Cake
    3/4 Yard Sunkissed Yellow Solid (5448-12)
    3/4 Yard Sunkissed Gray Solid (5448-15)
    1 1/2 Yard Bella Solid PFD White (9900-97)
    1/2 yd. binding Sunkissed Yellow Gingham (5447-12)
    3 1/4 yd. backing Sunkissed Multi Polka (5442-16)


    Presencia Finca Perle Cotton Size 12 (5 gram ball of each) #1651, 7720, 1137, 4799.  If you want to try a little bit of hand quilting long stitch style (I have totally been digging this lately), this is a perfect project to give it a whirl.  Very beginner friendly– My mom and I (aka mostly my mom) finished the quilting in less than a day.


    I began by sorting the fabrics in my layer cake–I chose not to use the solids or the duplicate fabrics–this left me with 37 layer cake squares.

    Cut each layer cake into (5) 2″x10″ strips–you will be using 4 strips from each layer cake square.

    From both the gray and yellow solid, cut 7 strips 3.5″ wide by the width of fabric. Subcut each strip into (12) 3.5″ squares.

    From the white solid, cut 14 strips 3.5″ wide by the width of fabric. Subcut each strips into (6) 3.5″ x6.5″ rectangles.

    Choose two contrasting layer cake strips–with right sides together sew them together on the long side.  Continue until you have sewn all your strips together (remember we are using 4 strips from each layer cake square).  Press your strips sets open.  Now, I am a press to the side kinda gal so I pressed my seams to the dark fabrics–however, in hindsight (because I was picky about the directional word fabrics going in the right direction), it would have been easier to press my seams open.  If you want your words to all run the same direction and you opt to press to one side, be prepared for a bit of finagling.  Your strip sets will now measure 3.5″ x 10″.
    Next, you will cut each of the strip sets into (5) 2″ x 3.5″ two patches.  You will end up with quite a few–you will be using (320) 2 patches to complete this quilt.
    Sew together (2) two patches right sides together–continue in this manner for all of the two patches.  Pay attention to the word fabrics as you choose your pairs if you want the text all going in one direction.  If not, just slap ’em together. =)
    This is gonna take awhile–you might need to grab a coke:
    But, in the end you will end up with a whole bunch of wonderful four patches of which you will be using 160 for the quilt top.  If you end up with more than you need (like I did), they work wonderfully for piecing into the backing of your quilt or for making some cute little throw pillows.  Give these little guys a press–open or to the side (whichever you prefer).  
    Choose 80 of these 4 patches to turn into (20) 16  patches.
    Sew together, lining up your seams as you go; press open.
    Next, on the back of each of the yellow squares and the gray squares, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner.
    Place a yellow square right sides together onto a white rectangle and sew from corner to corner on the line that you have drawn.  You will need to make 40 units with the diagonal starting in the upper left corner of the yellow square and 40 units with the diagonal starting in the upper right corner of the yellow square as pictured.
    Sew together–remember we are sewing directly on the drawn line.
    Trim away the excess fabric to the left of the seam, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Press your seams open or toward the yellow fabric depending on your preference.
    Next you will repeat these steps to add the gray squares.  The seams will be running parallel.
    Sew from corner to corner, trim off excess fabric again leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance & press open.  You will have 40 of each block below–40 blocks with the white diagonal going left to right and 40 blocks with the white diagonal going right to left.  These blocks will measure 3.5″x 6.5″.
    The blocks are now ready for assembly.  You will need (4) 4 patches, one 16 patch and 2 of each rectangle block to complete one 12.5″ block.  Pay special attention to the placement of the rectangle blocks.
    Make 20 of these blocks.
    You can now assemble the quilt top.  Here is the layout of the blocks.
    Once you have your blocks sewn together ( 20 blocks total–4 blocks x 5 blocks) you are ready to sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, and bind.  You’ll remember I mentioned earlier about hand quilting using perle cotton.
    It adds such a fun touch and is easy to do… even for a novice like me.  Mind you, I am a quilter by no means, but this method is enjoyable for me.  And look how cute!
    Enjoy!

    One fabulous bright and sunny quilt sure to scare away the winter blahs. =)  Your finished quilt will measure approximately 48″x60″.
    I hope that you have enjoyed my first tutorial. =)  I have enjoyed sharing with you!

    Corey Yoder
    {Little Miss Shabby}

    Bird Love


    Hey Everyone! I am Crystal Hendrix from Hendrixville. I am so happy to bring to you all another amazing Moda Bake Shop Quilt! 

    I was inspired by my wonderful Mother-in-Law who loves birds! I designed and made this for her! I hope that you all will fall in love with it as much as I have! 
     

    1 layer cake Spirit by Lila Tueller
    2 charm packs Spirit by Lila Tueller
    3 7/8 y 11434-13 (background- blue)
    2 7/8 y 11435-13 (thick border-dark blue)
    2 1/4 y 11436-16 (thin border-white)
    5/8 y 11435-15 (roof-brown)
    7 y 11436-18 (backing)
    3/4 y 11430-13 (binding)



    I am not a big fan of applique … mostly because I am afraid of it, so I try to patchwork as much as I can. If you have any questions about the instructions, PLEASE let me know and I will help out.
    Making the Bird Block: (Total needed: 9)

     
    I have labeled each piece so that it may be easier to understand. In the parentheses is how many you will need to make the total 9 blocks.


    *Please watch for your pattern lines. If you want them to all match up right please cut your pieces accordingly! I had to redo quite a few because of this reason!*

     A1: 4 (36) pieces of background fabric 1¾”x1¾” square 
    A2: 3 (27) pieces of main bird fabric 1¾”x1¾” square  

    A3: 4 (36) piece of wing bird fabric 1¾”x1¾” square 

    B: 2 (18) pieces of background fabric 4 ¼”x1 ¾” rectangle

     C: 1 (9) piece of background fabric 5 ½”x4 ¼” rectangle

      D: 1 (9) piece background fabric 3”x3” square

    E1: 10 (90) pieces of main bird fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square cut into half

     E2: 8 (72) pieces of background fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square cut into half

    E3: 1 (9) piece of bird beak fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square cut into half

    E4: 3 (27) pieces of bird wing fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square cut into half

     F1: 2 (18) pieces of bird leg fabric 1¾”x1 3/8” rectangle

      F2: 1 (9) piece of background fabric 1 ¾”x1 3/8” rectangle

    G: 1 (9) piece of background fabric 3”x1 ¾” rectangle

     H: 1 (9) piece of background fabric 8”x 1 ¾” rectangle







     I: 2 (18) pieces of main bird fabric 6 ¾”x1 ¾” rectangle

     
      


    After you cut out all of your fabric, you can now combine your “E” pieces.
     
    Combine 3 of your main bird fabrics with 3 of your bird wing fabric. Then combine all of your background pieces with the remaining pieces. 

    *Instead of cutting your squares into triangles, you can leave the squares intact and sew ¼” from the middle (after marking a line). I did mine this way so that I could have my patterns line up*

    To make assembly easier, I layout all of my pieces to make the bird.

      
     
    To make sure you can put your bird together easily and line up so you don’t have to do any tricky stitching, I sew my pieces together in a particular order.
     
    As you can tell from the picture, I layout all of my 9 block pieces so I can do all the blocks at one time. This makes it go by faster. 

     
    *I found that I had to constantly check my pattern to make sure all my pieces lined up correctly. I did more seam ripping in this quilt than any other that I have made*

    Making the House Block:  (Total needed: 9)

     
    This block is easier than the bird block. I have labeled each piece as well. In the parentheses is how many you will need to make the total 9 blocks.

     

    A1: 1 (9) piece background fabric 6”x5” cut in half rectangle 
      

     

     A2: 1 (9) piece house roof fabric 6”x5” cut in half rectangle

     B1: 1 (9) piece background fabric 6”x5” cut in half rectangle 

    B2: 1 (9) piece house roof fabric 6”x5” cut in half rectangle

    *Make sure to cut carefully if you want your fabric patterns to line up!*

     

    C: 2 (18) pieces of background fabric 6 3/8”x1¾” rectangle

     
    D: 2 (18) pieces of background fabric 3 3/8”x1 3/8” rectangle 
     

     

    E: 1 (9) piece of brown fabric 2 1/8”x1 3/8” rectangle 

     

    F: 2 (18) pieces main house fabric 5½”x3 3/8” rectangle 

     

    G: 2 (18) pieces main house fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square

     

      
     

    H: 1 (9) piece of brown fabric 2 1/8”x2 1/8” square  

     

     I: 4 (36) pieces of main house fabric 1 ¼”x1 ¼” square 


    * This piece is so tiny, you can’t see the fabric pattern well, so don’t worry about the fabric pattern*

    I find it easier to piece it in a particular order.

    To assemble the rest of the quilt: (Cut and sew the following)
      1.Cut out (18) 10” squares for the background fabric. (Once you have trimmed up your house and bird blocks you will need to trim these down to match).

    2)   2.Cut (2) 60”x2½” strips of white fabric.

    3)   3.Cut (2) 65”x2½” strips of white fabric.

    4)   4.Cut (2) 75”x2½” strips of white fabric.

    5)   5.Cut (2) 79”x2½” strips of white fabric.

    6)   6.Cut (2) 79”x 7” strips of Dark blue outer border fabric.

    7)   7.Cut (2) 93”x7” strips of Dark blue outer border fabric.

    8)   8.Sew together (2) 13 – 5” squares (charm).

    9)   9.Sew together (2) 15 -5” squares (charm).
    *You will need to cut down some of your extra layer cake pieces*
    Assemble bird, house and plain blocks together: 


    Sew the 60”x2½” strips of white fabric to the top and bottom of the quilt, followed by the 65”x2½” strips of white fabric to the sides:


    Sew the (2) 13 – 5” squares (charm) to the top and bottom of the quilt followed by the (2) 15 -5” squares (charm) to the sides of the quilt:


    Sew the 2 – 75”x2½” strips of white fabric to the top and bottom of the quilt followed by the 2 – 79”x2½” strips of white fabric to the sides of the quilt:



    Finish off the quilt top by sewing the 2 – 79”x 7” strips of Dark blue outer border fabric to the top and bottom of the quilt and the 2 – 93”x7” strips of Dark blue outer border fabric to the sides of the quilt top:

     
    Baste, pin, quilt and bind as desired.
    Once finished, you will have an approximate 93”x93” quilt. Perfect for a queen size bed!

    If you have enjoyed this quilt and tutorial feel free to see what else I am up to with my family at my blog! 

    Crystal Hendrix