Java Stars

Hi ya Moda Bake Shoppers! It’s me again, KarrieLyne from Freckled Whimsy, bringing you my Java Stars tutorial! This quilt was really fun to put together and I just love the illusion it gives!

In putting this quilt together, you will have more “scraps” than usual, but if you hop on over HERE to my blog, I will give you some really fun ways to use these up!

As usual, Leah over at Burgundy Buttons is offering this up in a kit! Woo Hoo!! She has a very limited supply in this line though, so hurry over and grab one up! 🙂

Please enjoy…. Java Stars!

1 Java layer cake
2 3/4 yards light background (19442-20)
3/4 yard red for border (19448-13)
3/4 yard for binding (19445-11)
4 yards for backing (19441-15)

1.  Using the background fabric, you will need to cut 36 squares measuring 10″.

2.  Start by cutting 9 strips that are 10″ wide x width of fabric (WOF). Then sub cut these into 36 10″ squares.

3.  Next we need to make a template. No worries, it’s really easy and you can still rotary cut all your blocks. 🙂

4.  Take a standard piece of paper (8.5″ x 11″) or similar in size. Cut out a piece that is 4.5″ x 10″.

5.  Along the top edge that is 4.5″ long, make a mark at the 1/2″ mark.

6.  Now line up your ruler from that 1/2″ mark to the opposite corner and cut.

7.  You will have two pieces. You need the piece that has the 1/2″ edge marked. See photo.

8.  I am using a background fabric that is very directional for this quilt so you have to cut your pieces carefully. This will make sure when your quilt is together, all the words are as they would be in a book with no words that are sideways.

9.  Separate your background pieces into four piles of 9 blocks each. When I cut my templates out of these pieces, I cut three at a time. Just make sure each block is lined up well before you cut.

10.  Keeping your background pieces so that you can read the words left to right, take your first pile of 9 squares (only cutting 3 at a time) and lay your template as shown, then carefully place your ruler over the template, matching the edge.

11. Now cut along ruler edge. Repeat for remaining 6 blocks in this set. Keep each piece in its respective pile.

12.  Take your second pile of 9 squares (only cutting 3 at a time) and lay your template as shown, then carefully place your ruler over the template, matching the edge.  Cut along ruler edge.

**Note: You are not changing the orientation of the background fabric, you are only moving the template in each round. Cut along ruler edge.

13. Take your third pile of 9 squares (only cutting 3 at a time) and lay your template as shown, then carefully place your ruler over the template, matching the edge. Cut along ruler edge.

14.  Take your fourth pile of 9 squares (only cutting 3 at a time) and lay your template as shown, then carefully place your ruler over the template, matching the edge.  Cut along ruler edge.

15.  You should now have piles that look like this, still keeping the orientation of the words the same.

**Note:  If you are not using a directional background (or you do not mind if your words are wonky) you can cut each piece the same and you won’t have to rotate where you cut the template or have to keep them in piles of 9. 

16.  You can set aside the pieces that were under the template. You won’t use these in this quilt, but you can head over to my blog to see what I did with mine. 🙂

17.  Next, you need to cut up your layer cake in the same manner. You don’t have to divide up your layer cake or rotate the template like you did the background pieces, just watch the directional prints when you cut them and match them to the corresponding background pieces when we get to that step.

18.  Choose 36 layer cake pieces and cut the template from the bottom of each piece.  I removed the lightest layer cake pieces since my background fabric is so light. Set aside the pieces that are not under the template.

19.  Now divide these template pieces into 4 piles of 9 and match them with the background fabrics like such. Again, watch your directional prints so they match.

20.  Using the large pieces of layer cake that you set aside, we are going to cut 36 squares that are 4″.

21.  Start by cutting (I stacked 3 pieces again) a 4″ strip from that layer cake.  Set aside piece on right. You won’t use these in this quilt, but you can head over to my blog to see what I did with mine. 🙂

22.  Turn your 4″ strip and cut a 4″ square. Yields 36 squares that are 4″. Set aside the remainder of those 4″ strips to use in the border later.

23.  Draw a line on the wrong side of each of your 4″ squares.

24.  Now we are ready to sew our blocks! I did one pile at a time. Take your first pile. Flip a template piece right side together with a background piece along the cut edge, leaving about a 1/4″ space at the tip.

25. Sew 1/4″ seam along edge. Press to print.

26. Grab up those 4″ square pieces. On the opposite corner of the wide end of the template, place a square right sides together.

27.  Sew ON the line.

28.  Trim 1/4″ away from sewn line. Save the trimmed pieces and check my blog for an idea for them!

29.  Press to the print. Repeat for remaining 3 groups.

30.  Now comes the fun part. Trimming. Don’t groan. This is important…LOL!

31.  I squared mine up to 9.5″ first. Remember to keep your blocks in their piles of 4!

32.  Then I only trimmed the template side. Line up your ruler along the 9 1/4″ lines on the bottom and left side of your ruler with the matching sides of your block (as shown), and then trim the right side and top. 

33.  If necessary, turn your block 180 degrees and trim edges to make sure they are straight. This step may not be needed, but check a few of your blocks. 

34.  I used a design wall to layout all of my blocks in sets of four. One block from each pile.  In doing this, all of your words will be facing the same way. 🙂

35.  You will make 9 groupings of these, laying them out 3 x 3 like such…

36.  Sew the blocks into rows and then sew the rows together.

37.  From your red fabric, cut 8 strips that are 2.5 x WOF. Piece four sets of two together, end to end. Add to the sides first, trim extra. Add to the top and bottom, trim excess.

38.  Using the 4″ pieces that were leftover from cutting the squares, we are going to piece the outer border. You will need 11 for each right and left side, and 12 for each top and bottom strip. To have enough, you will need to cut more from the layer cake pieces you pulled out in the beginning. Just cut 4″ strips in each piece and then into 6″ x 4″ pieces. You will need 66 total.

39.  Sew pieces end to end along the 4″ edge, two sets of 11 and two sets of 12. Sew onto the sides first, trim excess. Sew onto the top and bottom, trim excess.

40.  Press well. Sandwich your quilt with the backing, batting and quilt top. Quilt as desired and add your binding. Then of course, throw it in the wash to smoosh it all up like this….

Oh how I love that smooshed up look!! 😀

This quilt will measure about 67″ x 67″ before washing.

I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please oh please share it with me? You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE.  I would love to feature them on my blog! 🙂

Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

KarrieLyne
{http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}

Sugar Pop N Change Quilt


Hello fellow sewing enthusiasts!! It’s me, Melissa. I am so excited to be able to bring you another quilt tutorial here at the Moda Bake Shop. I absolutely fell in love with the Sugar Pop line by Liz Scott the second I saw it and was so happy to get to work with these amazing fabrics!

Do you love this quilt and the fabric as much as I do? Then click on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has created a Sugar Pop N Change Quilt Kit just for you!

As always, if you have any questions you can reach me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com. Oh, and feel free to stop by my little sewing stomping grounds www.happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com to see what I am up to. I love visitors. Happy Quilting to you all!
Okay, so I have to apologize. I was so excited to work with these fabrics that I opened up all my pre-cuts and started playing with them before taking a picture of them. Silly me 🙂
1 Sugar Pop Jelly Roll
1 Sugar Pop Charm Pack
1 Yard of Bella Solids White
1 1/4 Yard of Coordinating Print for Pieced Backing
STEP 1 – CUTTING

Grab your jelly roll and open it up. Separate your jelly roll into two piles.  One pile with 22 strips and one pile with 18 prints. Try to evenly distribute the colors and prints. And don’t feel like you have to follow my print piles, do what pleases your eye 🙂
First we will work with our pile of 18 prints. These pieces are for your binding so when you have cut them, go ahead and set them aside for a while. Lay your first jelly strip roll out of your mat. Line your ruler up so that the end of the jelly roll is on the 15″ line of your ruler. Cut so you have a 15″ strip. Repeat this process with the remaining 17 strips. (You could stack them up, but honestly I found it faster to just hurry and whack them verses taking the time to try and line up the strips perfectly.) Set the leftover portion of the jelly roll strips aside, we will be cutting them up in a minute (or 2 or 3 depending on how fast you cut.)
Now we will turn to our pile of 22 jelly roll strips. Lay several strips at a time out on your mat lining the edge along the 0 edge of your mat. Then line your ruler up with the 25″ strip on your mat. Go ahead and cut. This gives you a 25″ strip and some leftover. Repeat this process with all 22 of your strips. Once again, set the leftover aside. This time it probably will only be a minute before you cut them up 🙂
Grab your leftover jelly roll pieces. You are going to be cutting them into 5″ long pieces. You cut these the same way you did your 15″ piece. Line your ruler up so that the end of the jelly roll is on the 5″ line of your ruler and cut, then slide your ruler down another 5″ and cut, and so forth. You should be able to get 3 pieces or “coins” out of each strip in your 22 pile (the pile that you cut 25″ off before) and 5 pieces or “coins” out of each strip in your 18 pile (the pile that you cut 15″ off before) You’ll have a little scrap off of each strip. Yippee, everyone loves scraps!!
Grab your charm pack. You are going to be using 30 charms now and setting 12 aside with your 25″ long jelly roll strips to be used for the pieced back. Hint – To get an even distribution of prints on the front of your quilt, get the 22 charms that you were only able to cut 3 coins out of your leftover jelly roll first. Then choose your next 8 favorites. Now take your 30 chosen charms and cut them in half .
Grab your “coins” from your jelly roll and your “coins” from your charm pack and you have a beautiful pile of “change” ready to be sewn together.

Now onto your sashings 🙂

Grab your yard of white solid and lay it out on your mat, aligning the fold line with the 0 horizontal line on your mat. Align your ruler along the last line of your mat and trim a nice straight edge. Measure in 1 3/4″. I like to normally just use my mat for this, but if the 3/4″ throws you, you can always double check your measurement by placing another ruler along the side of your long ruler and ensuring that the edge of your fabric is lined up with the 1 3/4″ mark on your second ruler. Go ahead and cut. Now without moving your fabric, slide your ruler over another 1 3/4″ (use your second ruler to double check if necessary) and cut.  Repeat this process until you have 12 strips.
Lets cut up the 12 strips. Start by aligning your ruler along the horizontal mat line at 21 1/2 inches (just below where the selvage edge ends). If you don’t have a 21 1/2″ line on your mat, line your 1/2 mark on your ruler with the 21″ line on your mat. This should make your ruler edge now at 21 1/2″. Trim off the selvage edge.
We need 16 1/2″ strips, so move your ruler down to the horizontal 5″ line on your mat. Align your mat along the horizontal 5″ line and cut. Go ahead and set 6 of those little 10″ strips aside (the ones under the ruler 🙂 . The rest can go into your scrap pile 🙂
Now grab the last of your yard of white. Lay it out on the mat just as before and cut another 6 strips measuring 1 3/4″ wide (See previous instructions if confused on how).
These strips will be used for your center strips between rows and your borders. However, they need to be a little longer. Remember those six 10″ long pieces I said to set aside? Grab them. Lay a 10″ piece on top of your WOF strip. Sew a 1/4 seam along the edge. Keep doing this with all 6 of your strips. Press. Now you should have six 54″ x 1 3/4″ strips. And cutting is done and onto more sewing 🙂
STEP 2 – MAKING CHANGE ROWS

Making the change rows is a super fun and easy process. We’ll start by taking our single coins and making them into sets of 2. Grab 2 coins. I like to make sure I don’t have similar prints here. Also, I like to align the two cut edges and sew my seam along that edge. It helps to fix cutting boo-boo’s 🙂

So with that said, lay your first coin on top of your second coin, right sides together. You are going to match up your pinked edges. If this causes your cut edges to be slightly off no worries, that is why we are sewing them first. I don’t pin these. They are small enough to just handle while sewing but if that makes you nervous, feel free to pin away 🙂
Now go ahead and sew 1/4″ seam along the cut edge of your two pieces. After you have sewn one set of coins don’t stop. Don’t cut your threads. Just feed the next set of coins through your machine. This is called Chain Stitching and it saves tons of time! So go ahead and Chain Stitch all of your sets of 2 coins.
This is what you will have now: a huge pile of attached sets of 2. Now you can cut the threads between each of your sets.
You should now have a few stacks that each look like the set of 2 on the bottom. Aren’t they cute! So here is where your personal preference comes in. I don’t iron here. I don’t feel it is necessary for me and I like how fast and easy it makes this quilt go together. With that said, if you don’t like working with pieces that aren’t totally flat, feel free to iron your seams.
Now the process starts over again, but this time we are turning sets of 2 into sets of 4. Once again, when grabbing your pieces, try to avoid the same prints next to each other. Now just repeat the process! Lay your sets of 2 right side together, chain stitch you 1/4″ seam, and cut your threads.
You have sets of 4 and you guessed it, we are turning those into sets of 8. You are a pro at this now, huh! Repeat the same process of lining up right sides together, chain stitching and clipping threads.
Now, I go ahead and press all of my seams in one direction. Do this on all 27 of your sets. Yes, that is right, you should have 27 sets now. If you don’t look around on the floor, you have lost a few in the process.
And there you have it. 27 beautiful Change Rows.

STEP 3 – MAKING BLOCKS
This is the layout for your block. You will be making 9 of them. Just a side note before we get started… I liked to make sure that each time I line up a row that I don’t have an identical print across from each other and that I am keeping an even distribution of color. I love the look of random, but I tend to try to control the random a bit :).
So we can start by attaching the center strips to the coin stacks. Go ahead and set aside 9 coin stacks. On the remaining 18 stacks, lay a 16 1/2″ white strip on the right side of your strip making sure your edges line up. Once again, I didn’t pin here but if you prefer to, or if you find your edges aren’t lining up, go ahead and pin. Chain stitch a 1/4 seam on all 18 stacks, clip your threads.
Now pressing. I went ahead and pressed toward the white, I did this to avoid bulk. With that said, there are some prints that you will be able to see through the white strip to the print below. So if that bothers you, go ahead and press toward the prints. Once again, this is a personal preference thing.
We are going to take those 18 strips that you just sewed and sew them together to create 9 total pieces. So this is how you are going to line up your two pieces. (You will be doing this with 9 sets).
Lay your right hand piece on top of your left hand piece with right sides together. Just flip it over, don’t spin it or anything. Go ahead and pin making sure your edges line up. Oh and double check you flipped it right. You know you are aligned correctly if you are pinning the coins to the white strip underneath. Now go ahead and chain stitch your 1/4″ seam along the 9 sets, cut your threads and press.
Now you should have 9 sets that look like this. You are now ready to add on the last row of change. So grab those 9 rows you set aside.
Lay the final row onto your pieced block with right sides together. Pin along the edge. And once again, chain stitch your 1/4″ seam, clip your threads, and press.
You now have 9 beautiful blocks! Don’t they just POP!!
STEP 5 – COMPLETING THE QUILT TOP

Now that your blocks are done, you are ready to get your top all sewn up. Well start by laying out the rows. Go ahead and play with your blocks until you get a scheme that you like. Make sure that your block alignment matches this picture. (ie Row 1 and 3 blocks go vertical, horizontal, vertical while Row 2 blocks go horizontal, vertical, horizontal.) You will want to mark your blocks so that as you pick them up and sew you don’t loose this layout. I find the easiest way is to take a picture that you can refer back to. Done :).
We want to attach the vertical sashings first. Lay your 16 1/2″ white strips on the right hand side of your first 2 blocks in each row. Once again, I didn’t pin, but you can if you want. Sew a 1/4″ seam along the indicated line. Press.
Sew your rows together block by block. You will do this the same way you sewed your blocks together. Sew blocks 1 and 2 of each row together first and then press. Then add block 3, sew and press. If you get confused look back to the instructions of Step 3, its the same just on a bigger scale.
Yippee Skippee!! Your rows are done. Add your long sashing strips and border, and you are done. Grab those 6 super long white strips that you made back when you were cutting. They are a little long but no worry, we’ll trim any excess.
Lay a white sashing along the bottom of your row 1 and another white sashing along the bottom of Row 2. Make sure that you have right sides together. (Seriously, I had to do some unpicking because I wasn’t paying attention here, arghh!!) I didn’t pin, I just lined it up as I sewed it (again, personal preference). Sew 1/4″ seam and press. Go ahead and clip off any excess overhang.
So now you are here! You are ready to sew your rows together!
Take Row 2 (the center row) and lay it up onto Row 1. Go ahead and pin. ** See the next 2 pictures for a note on pinning**
When pinning, you want to take care that you are lining the sashing between your blocks up. To do this, pin your seams on either side of your sashing first.
Double check that they are lined up by flipping up the edge and making sure that the pin are in line with the seams of the sashing. Nice and lined up, okay! Sew your 1/4 seam along the entire row and then press.
You’re here now! Isn’t it just beautiful! Now you are going to add the bottom row the exact same way. Go ahead, you can do it!
You are almost done with the top. Now it is just adding on the borders and they are a snap! Add your two side borders first. Lay a long white sashing along the right side of the quilt and one along the left side of the quilt. Once again, make sure that the right sides are together. ( We don’t want raw seams on quilt tops :). I didn’t pin. Line up your strip as you sew your 1/4″ seam and then trim the excess at the end. Press.
Add the top and the bottom border. And you do it the exact same way you did the side borders. I know you can barely sit still. Go ahead and sew and press!
And there you have it!!! A beautiful stunning quilt top!! Don’t you just love your Sugar Pop N Change!

STEP 6 – MAKING YOUR QUILT BACK

We’ll start the pieced back by making the corner blocks. You need 4 corner blocks. Start by pulling out those 12 left over charms. Grab 4 and cut them in half. Now remember those scraps you had left from your jelly roll? Go ahead and get 4 scraps and cut four 2 1/2″ squares out of them.
That’s all the prep. Now you are ready to sew your 4 corner blocks together. Here is the layout.
First you start by placing your rows right sides together and sew 1/4 seam and press. This is what they should look like now. Remember, you are making 4 🙂
Lay your top row onto your bottom row. Make sure that you line up your seam. Pin and then sew your 1/4″ seam and press.
Your 4 blocks are ready to be trimmed down to size. The corner blocks need to be 6 x 6. You don’t want to trim on the sides that has the 2 1/2″ block. Line your 6″ ruler along the side of your block and trim.
Turn your block 90 degrees clockwise, line up your ruler for 6 inches, and trim again. There you have it, four corner blocks 🙂
Okay, onto making your coin rows. We are going to do this the easy way! It isn’t quite as random but turns out super nice for a border. Layout your 22 25″ jelly roll strips. Play with the layout until you get a nice flow of prints and colors that is pleasing to the eye.
Once you have them the way you like, stack them up right to left. Now you are going to stitch all of the rows together. Start by getting your first two strips from the pile, align them right sides together. Sew 1/4″ seam. Don’t worry about pressing, it can wait. Oh, and if your ends don’t match up perfect no worry, I left some wiggle room in the cutting for that. Go ahead and grab the next row on the pile. Align it to your pieced set and sew your 1/4 seam. Keep repeating this process until you have sewn all 22 of your strips together.
Press your seams in one direction. This is what you should have.
Now we are going to turn this strip into your 4 borders. Fold your strips in half so that they fit on your cutting mat. Line the fold line up along a horizontal line of your mat. Now you want to make a straight edge so line your ruler up along the vertical line of your mat closest to the edge of your fabric and cut. Measure 6 inches over on your mat. Align your ruler and cut. Repeat this 3 more times.
You now have 4 beautiful change rows for your border. Wasn’t that easy?? And now you are ready to put the back together. Get your 1 1/4 yard piece of coordinating fabric. Make sure it is squared up. (I cut mine to 43 3/4″ inches square so that the selvage wouldn’t be left on.) Sorry, My photography skills are not near what my quilting skills are 🙂  Here is the layout for the back.
We’ll start by adding the side borders to the back. There might be a little bit of overhang. No worries, we’ll just trim later. Lay each of your borders along the right and left side of the quilt. Pin, sew your 1/4″ seam, and press. Trim off the excess overhang.
Add your top and bottom border. If you had to trim your sides, it is most likely that you will have to trim your top and bottom as well. However, this time you have to trim your sides first, so your corner blocks will actually end up in the corner 🙂 Lay your top and bottom border out. Now, go ahead and trim off any excess so that you only have 1/4″ overhang from the center back piece. Sorry, that doesn’t make a lot of sense but the picture make it a lot easier to understand. Trim all 4 of your border edges as such.
Now you are ready to add your corner pieces. Lay your corner piece so that the 2 1/2″ block is in the center.  Lay the block over onto the border. Pin. Do this with all 4 blocks. Sew your 1/4″ seam and press.
So this is where you should be now. You are so close. Now it is just adding the top and bottom border.
Lay your top and bottom border onto your center panel. Make sure to align your corner block seams (where my scissors are pointing.) You know what to do: Pin, Sew, and Press!!!
And Ta Da!! Your back is finished!!
STEP 7 – FINISHING UP
Make your quilt sandwich. Taping the back down is a great way to smooth out wrinkles 🙂
Baste. The more pins the merrier 🙂
Quilt. The gloves really do make a difference, I highly recommend them 🙂
And bind! Remember those 15″ strips you set aside. Put them in a mixed up color order and sew them up to make your binding strip. There is a great tutorial here on binding if you haven’t done it before.
And you’re done!! Sit back and Enjoy!!! Oh, and while you are enjoying head over to my Happy Quilting Tutorial’s Flickr page to upload your quilt. I would love to see your work!  Happy Quilting!!
One super fun and bright Sugar Pop N Change Quilt measuring 53″ x 53″. Happy Quilting!!

Topsy Turvy Quilt



One layer cake – Lily and Will by Bunny Hill Designs
2 7/8 yards background fabric – Bella Solid in Snow
2/3 yard for binding – Posh Green Plaid
3 2/3 yards for backing – Cottontail Green
All seam allowances are 1/4″ throughout.
First, cut the background fabric into 40 strips that measure 2 1/2″ x width of fabric.
Next, choose 30 fabrics from the layer cake. Make sure that they contrast well with the background color.
Then, take one 10″ square and trim small slivers off each side of the block. (I used a dark fabric for the sample block for contrast purposes.) Don’t trim more than 1/2″-3/4″ off each side, or the block will become too small. Just a bit taken off each side is sufficient.
Cut two strips of background fabric approximately the height of the square.
Sew on to the block and press.

Trim off the excess ends of the strip so the ends are even with the rest of the block.

Cut two more strips of background fabric that are slightly wider than the block.
Sew and press.
Using a 12.5″ square, trim around all 4 sides of the block.
The block is finished.

Repeat above steps until all 30 blocks are made.

Layout the blocks in a pleasing arrangement. The layout is 5 blocks across and 6 rows down.
Sew blocks together in rows and then sew the rows together.
Baste, quilt and bind as desired.
Since I used a plaid binding, I cut the strips (2 1/4″) on the bias. A little fiddly, but well worth the final results.
One lap quilt that measures 60″ x 72″.
Amanda Jean
{crazymomquilts}

Christmas Advent Pockets

I designed this Christmas Advent Quilt for my children, my grandchildren, and for each of YOU. The quilt has 25 pockets that are perfect for hiding treats, small toys, coins, or even different Christmas activities that you can do with your children or grandchildren. I hope you are inspired to make this Christmas Advent a yearly tradition with your family.
I’m sorry about the last minute inspiration (sometimes that’s how it comes) but thinking on the positive side of things. . . did you realize that you can take advantage of the Christmas Fabric Sales? Now hurry out and hit those sales and start working on it today so it will be ready for next year.

Finished Quilt Size: 37″ x 53″
Finished Block Size: 7 1/2″ x 7 1/2″

  • 1 Layer Cake of “Fruitcake” by Basic Grey for Moda
  • 4 Fat Quarters of Moda Wool in Red, Ivory, Black, and Teal
  • 1/2 yard Red fabric for block borders
  • 1/2 yard White fabric for block borders
  • Heavyweight Heat & Bond for numbers
  • 13″ of Brown Snowflake fabric for large border
  • 1/4 yard of Brown Polka Dot fabric for small border
  • 2 yards fabric for quilt backing
  • 2 yards batting for quilt
  • 2 yards Red Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Green Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Teal Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 yards Brown Medium Ric Rac
  • 2 1/4 yards Red Jumbo Ric Rac

Part One:
Cutting the Layer Cake for Advent Pockets
& Fabric Yardage for Block Borders

1. Choose 25 fabric squares from the Layer Cake then separate them from the pack.

2. From each of the 25 squares you will cut the following:

  • Cut 1 foundation square 5″ x 5″ for inside pocket lining
  • Cut 1 rectangle 1 1/2″ x 5″ for top portion of pocket
  • Cut 1 rectangle 2 1/4″ x 5″ for top pocket binding/lining
  • Cut 1 rectangle 3 1/2″ x 5″ for bottom portion of pocket
  • Cut 1 rectangle 4 1/4″ x 5″ for bottom pocket binding/lining
3. You will be making 13 Red Blocks and 12 White Blocks for a total of 25 Blocks.
4. From the 1/2 yard cut of red and white border fabric, cut the following:
  • Cut 26 red rectangles 2″ x 5″ for side borders
  • Cut 26 red rectangles 2″ x 8″ for top and bottom borders
  • Cut 24 white rectangles 2″ x 5″ for top and bottom borders
  • Cut 24 white rectangles 2″ x 8″ for side borders

Part Two:
Making the Advent Pockets

1. Cut 2 pieces of Ric Rac measuring 5 1/4″ out of any color you wish to use.
2. Choose the outside pocket fabric for the top and bottom pieces measuring 1 1/2″ x 5″ and 3 1/2″ x 5″

3. Then choose the matching top and bottom binding/lining fabric pieces measuring 2 1/4″ x 5″ and 4 1/4″ x 5″

4. Place the 1 1/2″ x 5″ piece with right side facing up on your sewing table. Then sandwich the Ric Rac in the middle with the 2 1/4″ x 5″ piece of fabric with right side facing down on top of the Ric Rac. Pin in place to prevent any shifting. Sew the seam using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

5. Repeat this process for the bottom portion of the advent pocket. You will use the two pieces measuring 3 1/2″ x 5″ and 4 1/4″ x 5″


6. Open the two fabrics revealing the Ric Rac inside. Press the larger fabric piece up and over and around toward the back of the pocket. This forms the pocket binding and the inner lining of the advent pocket.
7. Trim off any excess lining fabric.

8. Place the finished top and bottom pocket pieces on top of a 5″ x 5″ foundation square with the right side facing up. Make sure the bottom edge of the top pocket and top edge of the bottom pocket meet. Baste pockets at both sides of pocket opening to secure the pocket to the 5″ x 5″ foundation square.

9. Turn pocket over and trim any excess to match the 5″ x 5″ foundation square.


10. Repeat this process for the remaining 24 advent pockets.

Part Three:
Adding the Borders to Pockets


1. Divide your advent pockets into two groups. Group One will have 13 blocks with red borders and Group Two will have 12 blocks with white borders. Remember when it comes to dividing the blocks into groups that it’s important to have contrast between the advent pockets and the border fabric. For example, you wouldn’t put a red advent pocket with the red border fabric but, you would pair it with the white border fabric. The same holds true for the light advent pockets. The other 3 colors (teal, brown, and green) can be paired with either the white or the red borders.
2. The red border strips measuring 2″ x 5″ are sewn to the left and right sides of the advent pockets and the 2″ x 8″ border strips are sewn to the top and bottom of the red blocks.
3. The white border strips measuring 2″ x 5″ are sewn to the top and bottom of the advent pocket and the 2″ x 8″ border strips are sewn to the left and right sides of the advent pockets.

4. All seams are sewn using a 1/4″ seam allowance and seams are pressed outward, away from the advent pockets.



Part Four:
Finishing the Quilt


1. Take the 25 finished blocks and lay them out in the following order:
  • Row One: red, white, red, white, red.
  • Row Two: white, red, white, red, white.
  • Row Three: red, white, red, white, red.
  • Row Four: white, red, white, red, white.
  • Row five: red, white, red, white, red.
2. Sew blocks and rows together using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press the block seams toward the red blocks and the row seams can alternate up then down on each row.
3. Now measure across the top row of blocks (it should be 37 1/2 inches). Cut two borders measuring 6 1/2″ x 37 1/2″ out of the brown fabric with snowflakes and two smaller borders measuring 3″ x 37 1/2″ out of the brown polka dot fabric.
4. Cut two pieces of Red Jumbo Ric Rac measuring 40.” This will allow for any fraying that can be trimmed off later.
5. Baste Ric Rac in place, making sure to line up Ric Rac so that when you baste it onto the fabric, the stitching line will barely cross over the curves in the Ric Rac. Trim off the tops of the Ric Rac as seen in picture.
6. Place smaller binding on top of the Ric Rac with right sides together. Sew seams using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams toward the darker fabric making sure the Ric Rac lays on top of the polka dot fabric. Repeat for both bottom borders.


7. Take the two finished borders and sew one to the top of the quilt and the other one to the bottom of the quilt using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam toward the brown polka dot fabric.

Part Five:
Attaching the Numbers
I used 4 different colors of Moda Wool but you are NOT limited to using wool if you don’t have access to wool in your area. You may use any leftover layer cake squares to make the numbers in place of the wool.
I used a heavy duty Heat N’ Bond for the wool but I would use a lighter weight or medium weight if you decide to use fabric for the numbers. I tried to use the color of wool on each pocket that gave the best contrast. You can do the same if you use fabric. Remember that contrast is important.
To make the numbers, I used my Sizzix Die Cut Machine (an older version) along with a set of number dies (that are no longer available) to cut out the numbers. I realize that most of you won’t have access to a die cut machine so, I’ve included 4 different fonts that are very similar to the dies that I used. I’ve included the numbers in the pdf download file for this pattern. You may also choose to create your own numbers by using any computer program like WORD or PAGES. You will want the numbers to be approximately 1 1/4″ in height.

1. Follow the instructions for using the Heat N’ Bond product especially if you haven’t used it before. In the printer friendly version below, you will see that I’ve already flipped the numbers so you can easily trace the numbers to the paper side of the Heat N’ Bond.
2. Cut around the outside of each number (NOT on the traced line).
3. Press each number(s) with shiny side down on the wrong side of fabric or on either side of the wool.
4. Using sharp scissors now cut out each number on the traced line.
5. Center the number(s) in the middle of the bottom half of the pocket, then press the numbers with your heated iron to activate the Heat N’ Bond.
6. Now it’s ready to take to the Quilter. A special Thank You goes to Kaylene Perry who willingly fit my quilt in to her busy quilting schedule. Kaylene has been my quilter and friend for many years now. Didn’t she do a marvelous job quilting it? I love it!!!
Merry Christmas Everyone!
To CELEBRATE my 50th Birthday. . .
I’m having a giveaway!
So, if you want to play along visit me HERE.
See You There!

1 Advent Pocket Quilt

Christmas Tree Card Holder


Happy Holidays Moda Bake Shop-ers! It’s Ellie from Craft Sew Create. Don’t know where to put all the lovely holiday cards you are receiving this year? I have just the place! A tree shaped bulletin board that’s just right to display cards from family and friends. There is a bit more than sewing with this project, but if you’re up to it, you’ll be rewarded with something beautiful and functional!


One Christmas Charm Pack ( I chose Fruitcake by Basic Grey)

1/2 yard or one Fat Quarter solid fabric for tree trunk (I used Fruitcake – Grunge in Hot Cocoa)

One piece of 1/4″ plywood or hardwood that is at least 32″ x 48″ (Home Depot & Lowes sell pre-cut plywood that is 4 ft x 4 ft. You can get two trees out of it.)

Thin craft Batting

7 yards 5/8″ coordinating ribbon

20 Upholstery Tacks (sold at most home improvement and craft stores)

Sawtooth picture hanger

Tools you will need:
Staple Gun

Electric Saw

 First:
Using your quilter’s ruler, you need to draw the outline to cut out your tree with the dimensions as shown. Use an electric saw to cut out the tree. If you don’t have one, it’s time to call in that favor from your neighbor who does :). Some home improvement centers will even do it for you! Sand the edges as necessary.

Next…Time to Sew (yay!)
Layout your charm pack in a tree shape as shown. Start with 8 squares on the bottom and use one less for each row until there is only one.

Piece together by rows then sew the strips together. Because they need to be staggered, fold the center square of each row in half and finger press the middle. Use that center point to match the seam on the next row and pin in place.

Be sure to press your seams! I like to press my seams open. 
You will end up with a beautiful patch worked fabric tree!


Next steps:

I am showing the picture of this after the tree is complete, but you need to do it first! Hammer in the sawtooth hanger about 4″ from the top of the tree. *The nails will go through to the front! They need to be bent and hammered down before your fabric goes on.* 🙂

Now, layout your batting, place your wood tree on top, and cut out along the edges leaving about an inch extra batting all the way around. Clip the batting in the corners of the tree and trunk.

Then lay your fabric tree on top of the batting and wood. Make sure you center the fabric on the top and the bottom.

When you have the fabric centered on the board, place 3 stabilizing staples at the very bottom of the fabric into the trunk of the tree (They will be covered by the trunk fabric later). It’s time to staple baby!

Carefully flip the board over. Start at the top, pull the fabric over and fold the fabric under so it’s taut but not too tight. Staple in place. 

After a few staples just check to make sure it’s not pulling too much on either side, keep it even and centered.

When you get to the pointed edges, pull the fabric back together and fold over as best and least bunchy as possible.

When you come to the trunk you need to cut a notch in the side of the fabric.

Continue to staple until the whole tree is done.

Next: The Tree Trunk

Cut your trunk fabric to 14″ x 18″. You need to fold over the top of the fabric about 2″. Place at the top of the base of the tree.

Then you fold over the fabric two more times making each fold 2″. Wrap the fabric under on the bottom to make sure it is even with the other folds.

Pin in place so the folds don’t come undone when you staple.

Staple the trunk. You can reduce some of the bulk at the corners by cutting off batting. Fold in like you are wrapping a present.
Next up: Attach the Ribbon

It’s important to start your first ribbon in the lower corner, right next to the trunk. Angle the ribbon up to about 17″ on the opposite side. Carefully staple in place. This ribbon will be the measuring point for the rest of the ribbons going that direction.

Next, take your quilter’s ruler and measure 5″ between each ribbon. Staple in place. Finish for all the ribbons going that direction. Then repeat on the opposite side.
It should look like this when you are finished.
Last Step: Nail the Tacks

 
At each point where the ribbon intersects you need to hammer in a tack.  Be careful! It will go through to the back of the board. Make sure you are hammering off the table or on the carpet so you won’t harm any furniture.

 Because it does go through to the back, you need to hammer it down as shown.

One cute and functional Christmas Card Tree! Hope you will enjoy making it, it really is a fun project. Come visit me at Craft Sew Create for more fun sewing and crafting together!

Ellie Roberts
{Craft Sew Create}

Star Drops Table Topper

Hi! I’m back again with a new project for our Moda “bakers”. While I was as the Spring 2010 quilt market. I met Darlene Zimmerman. She is an amazing quilter and has been designing for more than 20 years. Dalrene mainly focuses on 1930’s reproductions. That’s where I first came to know of her since I have collected 1930’s repros for over 12 years!
As I said, I met Darlene at market and we had some serious quilting chat about what other designs she has and her rulers. United Notions carries all of Darlene’s rulers, so it was fitting that I introduce a couple of them to you here on the Bake Shop.
Without further ado…….
Star Drops Table Topper
1/2 yard background sku # 32376-18 Marshmallow Dots
Bamboo batting at least 20″ X 20″
Begin by cutting strips of background  3.5″ X width of fabric.
In addition: cut a background strip 5″ X Width of Fabric for setting squares.
Sub cut the 3.5″ background strip into {40} triangles.
Line the 3.5″ line of the ruler on the cut edge of the fabric as shown.
Take several fat quarters and cut 4.5″ X 22″ strips.
I used 10 different prints.
Sub cut the 4.5″ strip into 20 triangles {2 each of 10 prints}.
Line up the 4.5″ line of the 30 degree triangle ruler and cut.
Each block requires 8 background triangles and 4 center triangles {2 of 2 colors} as shown.
To piece the component star points, begin by sewing on background triangle to a center triangle.
Press.
Then sew the other triangle to the opposite side of the center triangle.
This is one complete star point.
Using the Simpli-EZ square, line up the ruler and the background fabric as shown, to trim the piece.
Here is a close up and notice that the colored center point is 1/4″ from the ruler corner.
This is important for the final piecing of the blocks.
Rotate the star component and trim the other side.
The component should measure 3″ square as shown.
Here is the block just after trimming.
Select 4 components to make a block.
Sew these together similar to a 4-patch.
This is one block complete.
It should measure 5″ square.
Make 5 blocks.
Here are examples of blocks that I made.
Set the blocks in rows of 3.
A= 5″ background
B= 5″ pieced block
Setting:
    ABA
    BBB
    ABA
Sew them into rows of 3.
Then sew each row to the next.
The top should measure 15.5″ X 15.5″.
Lay the top with batting and backing fabric.
I used a fat quarter from the bundle for the backing.
Quilt as you like.
I chose to use 1/4 outline quiting for my topper.
Here is the back of the topper.
*Note*
At this point, I have quilted the top before I trimmed the corners.
To trim the topper corners, I used a 4″ X 14″ ruler as shown. 
Lined it up with 1/4″ mark on the ruler with the points of the star blocks.
Trim the top, batting and backing away.
Do this for all four corners.
A view from the back.
A closer view of the quilting.
You may bind with any method you choose.
I decided to bind by machine.
To do this, I made 2 1/4″ double fold binding with left over strips from a fat quarter.
I sewed the binding to the BACK first.
Fold binding to the FRONT and machine stitch 1/16″ from the edge.
I recommend using coordinating threads on the top and bottom for a more polished finish.
A 15″ x 15″ Star Drops Table Topper
Darlene has a created a book with her design option for a larger quilt with setting strips and corner stones.
 ********************************************
For those of you that have read through the tutorial, I have a surprise for you!
Leave a comment here on Moda Bake Shop and on my blog http://www.spunsugarquilt.com/
to be entered in a giveaway for a bundle of 12 Moda fat quarters and more. 2 Chances to win!!
Check my blog for details.

Hooting with the Stars




Hello….I’m Jo, along with my beagle Gracie. You can find us every day at Jo’s Country Junction. I’m back with my second Moda Bake Shop post with the fun fabric line, It’s a Hoot. This star quilt finishes at 48.5 inches square, which is a perfect size for that little toddler in your life. I invite you to stop over to my blog and see all the bloopers from Gracie’s photo shoot and the quilt made with an alternative fabric.

1 It’s a Hoot layer cake
1 yard coordinating fabric for star border and binding
3 1/2 yards coordinating fabric for backing
Open your layer cake pack. Cut each square into 4- 5″ squares.

To make the star blocks, select 16 light squares and 16 medium-dark squares for the star points.



Using your preferred marking method, draw a diagonal line connecting opposite corners on the backs of the light squares.


Match each light square up with one of the selected medium-dark squares. With right sides together, sew 1/4 inch on each side of the marked line.

Using a rotary cutter, cut on the diagonal line. Iron four of the half square triangles to the light side and the other four towards the dark side.


Trim squares to 4 1/2 inches square. These will be the star points. Set them aside.

Select 16 additional light charms and 16 medium dark charms. Trim all pieces to 4.5 inches square.


Using 8 of the half square triangles (4 medium/dark 4.5 inch squares, and 4 light 4.5 inch squares), layout a star block as shown.


Sew together in strips.


Sew the strips together.


Create 3 additional star blocks following the previous instructions.

From fabric for inner star border, cut 8- 1.5 inch strips. 


Subcut into 8 – 16.5 and 8- 18.5 inch strips. 

Attach the 16.5 inch strips to opposite sides of each star block. Press.


Attach the 18.5 inch strips to complete the border. Press.



Repeat to have a total of four star blocks.

Sew together 4 five inch blocks together in a row. Make a total of 6 of these sets. These will border the sides of the star blocks.

Sew the borders to the blocks as shown to make a strip. Repeat so you have two rows.


Sew eleven 5″ squares together in a row as shown to create a border strip. Repeat to make 3 strips.


Sew the eleven-inch block strips to the star block strips. Your quilt top is complete.

Seam the backing piece together. Quilt as desired.

Lay your quilt out and admire your handiwork!





48.5 x 48.5 quilt.

Come visit Gracie and I over at Jo’s Country Junction.