Chain of Faith



I’m so happy to be showing you my latest Moda Bake Shop Project, Chain of Faith. If you are looking for a quilt pattern that looks complicated but is actually not, Chain of Faith might be just the quilt for you! If you haven’t seen or touched the fabric yet, you are going to want to. This fabric feels like it’s already been loved. It’s so soft and cuddly. If you want to see more behind the scenes information about the quilt make sure to stop over to my blog, Jo’s Country Junction.

2 Collections for a Cause-Faith Jelly Rolls

3.5 Yards of Red Collections for a Cause-Faith 4609016 for cornerstones, border and binding


6 yards of Collections for a Cause-Faith 4609123 backing fabric

There isn’t room for error when cutting the jelly rolls. You may want to purchase an extra 1/4 yard of fabric…just in case.



From the red cut: 41 – 2.5″ strips
Set 8 aside for borders
Set 8 aside for binding

Sub cut 32 – 11″ pieces
Sub cut 219 – 2.5″ pieces

From Jelly Rolls (I set the solid red, brown and cream pieces aside)
From 11 strips sub cut 32 11″ pieces
From 29 strips sub cut 144 8.5″ pieces
From 22 strips sub cut 128 6.5″ pieces
From 15 strips sub cut 128 4.5″ pieces

You will need to use leftover pieces from previous strips to complete the number of strips needed.

There is VERY little leftover fabric when making this project, so cut carefully.

Take the 11″ red strips and sew to the 11″ strips along the length of the pieces. Press to the red.
Sub cut into 4 2.5″ pieces.

Mix and match the pieces sewing them together to make scrappy four patch blocks.

Sew a 4.5″ piece to each 4 patch as shown.

Sew a 2.5″ red square to a 4.5″ piece.

Sew the piece onto the main block.


Sew a 6.5″ piece to the main block.

Sew a 2.5″ red square to a 6.5″ piece.

Sew the piece to the main block.

Repeat the process making a total of 64 blocks.

The next step is to take four of your smaller blocks, four 8.5″ sashing strips, and a red cornerstone and sew them into a block as shown. Be careful to sew them together so that the small red squares form an “X”. Also be careful to sew them together so that the vertical stripes of the block are across from each other.


Repeat making a total of 16 of these larger blocks. Set them aside.

Sew a red cornerstone between two sashing pieces as shown. Make 20 all together.


Now take four of your blocks and five sashing pieces. Sew the sashing pieces to them as shown.


It is really easy to turn the blocks in the wrong direction. Look at the photo closely and see how the blocks are still forming an “X” and the vertical strips in the block are still vertical. Make a total of four rows.


Now make sashing to strips to go between the rows. You will need to eight 8.5″ pieces and 9 red cornerstones for each row, starting and ending with a cornerstone.


Connect them as shown. Make a total of five sashing strips.

Now sew the rows and the sashing strip together to form your quilt top. A sashing row will be at the top and at the bottom as well as between the block rows.

Take your border strips and sew them together. Attach to your quilt and your quilt top is finished.

Piece your backing together and quilt as desired.

One 86″ x 86″ quilt
This fabric line is SO soft….now it’s perfect for a cup of cocoa and a snuggle.

Typically when I show a Moda Bake Shop project, my beagle Gracie is part of the photo shoot. She wasn’t feeling the best when we took the photos…Stop on over the blog and see how she’s doing at our blog Jo’s Country Junction.


Jo Kramer
{Jo’s Country Junction}

Chef in Training…

Our Moda Bake Shop Editor has had a special “bun in the oven” for the last 9 months and is very happy to present the latest addition to our MBS Team…

Harper Grace Garland {Chef in training}

She made her arrival on March 29, 2011 at 8:24pm
weighing in at a healthy 8 lbs. 14 oz. and 20″ long

Congratulations to Jenny and the rest of the family!

Snuggly Squares II Baby Quilt


My first Moda Bake Shop tutorial was the Snuggly Squares Baby Quilt.  It was so much fun to put together and I loved the finished look!  So when I saw that Bunny Hill Designs was making a second line, Lily & Will II, I knew right away that I wanted to make a more “boyish” version of that first quilt tutorial in the new line.  So, with that inspiration, Snuggle Squares II was created 🙂


Do you have a sweet little bundle of joy you could make up some snuggly squares for? Well then pop on over to Burgundy Buttons where Leah has made up a Snuggly Squares II Quilt Kit  just for you.  They come in Aqua or Yellow.  And each even come with an adorable quilt label to add to your finished product.  How awesome!!  And as usual, they are at a great Burgundy Buttons discount price. So hurry over, quantities are limited.








And as always, you can find me over at Happy Quilting. Go ahead and stop by, I love visitors 🙂





1 Layer Cake of Lily & Will II
1 1/4 yards of Backing


That’s it, easy enough right? 🙂






Before we start, just a quick note.  I try to make all my tutorials super beginner friendly but please remember, that should you have any questions along the way don’t hesitate to email me at happyquiltingmelissa at gmail dot com.  I am happy to help 🙂  And when you are done with your project, please feel free to upload it to my Flickr page or send me an email with a picture attached.  (happyquiltingmelissa at gmail dot com).  I would love to highlight your work 🙂  



STEP 1 – CUTTING

Okay, grab your layer cake and take off the packaging 🙂  Isn’t it just fun to see all of those amazing prints and colors!!  Now gather up the 5 following white-ish pieces of cake, and the 8 following brown pieces of cake.  (Ya, I call teh 10 x 10 square a piece of cake, I figure it fits 🙂   Got em??  Great!!




Use the following cutting guide to cut the 13 aforementioned slices of cake up 🙂  These will be parts of your blocks 🙂  This is the most intricate cutting so we are getting it over with first 🙂



Now locate the following 2 prints.  Got em??  These will be used for the border 🙂


Use this guide to slice up those 2 pieces of cake.  They are a little easier to cut 🙂  Make sure to cut the top first so that you have 1 larger piece of scrap instead of 4 little ones.  Everyone likes bigger scraps.


Gather up 2 slices of bluish cake of each of the following 8 prints.  You will have a total of 18 squares.



This time we are cutting up little 2 1/2″ squares.  Use the following guide to cut all 16 bluish prints 🙂  No Scraps here 🙂

You should have 11 pieces of cake left 🙂  The 2 repeat pieces of blue and white checks can be set into your scrap pile.  So now you are cutting with 9 pieces of cake.


Use the following guide to cut your 9 pieces of cake.  The last strip in each set can be set aside for scrap.  (Except for the blue / white checked one, it will be used later)  Gather your pieces in a pile and set aside.  These will be used for your binding so you won’t use them until the end 🙂

 And that is all of the cutting.  Just as a review, you should have the following pieces cut 🙂





STEP 2  – PIECING BABY SQUARES


Alright, it is time to start sewing.  We are going to start with all of those 2 1/2″ squares.  Grab your pile and mix them up.  I find the easiest way is to just throw them all in a baggie add some air, and shake 🙂  If you really get into the shaking, you can get your daily workout as well 🙂



We are going to be turning all of those individual squares into 2 patch pieces.  Grab 2 squares out of the bag (Check to make sure they are not the same print 🙂  and place them right sides together.



Stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Doesn’t matter which edge, any will do 🙂  Once you have completed one, don’t pull it out of your machine.  You are going  to chain stitch all of your squares.  Keep feeding them through, one after another, until you have made all your squares into 2 patch pieces.  You should have 128 sets.



Clip the threads between your sets and press your seams.  I just press mine in one direction but if you like open seams, you are welcome to do it that way.



So now you have a large stack of 2 patch pieces.   We are going to play with them some more.  Next we are going to make 36 four patch rows.  Grab 72 two patch pieces.  Lay 2 sets right sides together and pin along the edge.  Repeat for all 36 sets.



Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge on all 36 sets,  clip your threads between  sets,  and press.  This is what you should have 🙂



So now  we are going to make 13 four patch squares. Grab 26 two patch pieces.  Lay 2 sets right sides together and pin along the center edge.  Make sure to nest your center seam.  Repeat for all 13 sets.


Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge on all 13 sets,  clip your threads between  sets,  and press.  I pressed these open to help avoid bulk.  This is what you should have 🙂




And last, but not least, you have some 2 patch pieces that will remain 2 patch pieces.  Super easy.  You should have 30 two patch pieces left.  You will only need 24 so you can grab 6 sets and set them in your scrap pile.  Yippee Skipee for scraps 🙂



STEP 3 – BUILDING BLOCKS


There are 2 different blocks for this quilt.  We will start with what I call Block A.  There will be 12 Block A’s.    Gather up your 4 rows and your 2 patch pieces, and your brown and whitish squares. You can go ahead and pull out the blue/white check square and set it in scrap.  We only need 12 center blocks 🙂


This is the layout to start.  We will be attaching a 2 patch piece two opposite sides of your center square.



Lay the first 2 patch piece on the center square with right sides together and pin.  Repeat this process with all 12 of your sets.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edge of all 12 sets, clip your threads and press .



So now you are here.  Onto attaching the second side.  Same process.  Lay your pieces for all 12 sets right sides together, pin, chain stitch a 1/4″ seam, clip threads, and press.



With those 2 sides attached, you are ready to add the top and the bottom.  Grab your 4 piece rows.



Lay the first row on top of your center piece.  Make sure to match your 2 seams along the edge of the center square.  Pin along the edge of all 12 sets.  And once again, chain stitch your 1/4″ seam, clip your threads, and press.  When completed, repeat the process to attach the bottom row 🙂




You should have a stack of 12 blocks that now look like this!!  Aren’t they just adorable 🙂



Now, onto Block B.  We will be making 13 of these 🙂  Gather your 4 Patch Squares, and your brown and whitish sashings (those are the rectangles you cut in the first cutting step).


These are put together in the same manner as Block A so this should be cake 🙂  The one difference now is to make sure that you are always adding the same print of sashing 🙂  So grab 2 of your 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles in the same print and layout as follows.    




Lay your first side onto your pieced center square and pin.  Repeat with all 13 sets.  Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam, clip threads, and press.



Now onto the second side.  Once again, double check that you are adding the same print to each set.  Pin with right sides together, chain stitch your 1/4″ seam, clip threads and press.



Now it is just adding the top and bottom.  This is easy by now 🙂  Grab your 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles that are matching prints.  Do this for each of your 13 sets.


Lay your top along the top of your pieced center.  Once again make sure you have the same print 🙂    There are no seams to worry about matching up this time.  Just pin, chain stitch a 1/4″ seam, clip threads, and press. Turn and repeat for the bottom 🙂  


And now you have 13 Block B’s.  Super adorable and super easy!!






STEP 3 – PUTTING THE BLOCKS TOGETHER




Alright, now that the 25 blocks are all pieced, we are ready to put them together.  Start by laying out your blocks as follows.  I love how the browns and whites “frame up” the blues 🙂  I know it is kind of hard to see but you can click on the picture to get a bigger image 🙂  

Once you have your blocks all laid out you are ready to start putting together your rows.  Start with row 1.  Lay Block 1 onto Block 2 and Block 3 onto Block 4 with right sides together.  Go ahead and pin along the center edges.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along your pinned line (and remember to remove pins as you go, no sewing over pins 🙂  Now go ahead and press your seams.

Now you are going to attach block 5 to your now sewn together block 3 and 4.  So lay block 5 onto block 4 with right sides together.  Pin along the edge.  Sew your 1/4″ seam and press.

Almost done with the row 🙂  Lastly, lay your sewn together Block 1 and 2 onto your now sewn together Block 3, 4, and 5 with right sides together.  Pin along the edge of Block 2 and 3 to create your final seam.  Sew 1/4″ seam along the pin line and press.

Your row is now pieced together.  Go ahead and repeat this process for all 4 rows.  I did this one row at a time so as not to change my layout on accident but you do what you are comfortable with 🙂

This is what your top should look like with all of your rows sewn.

Next you will take the rows and sew them together.  This is just like before but on a longer and larger scale.    Lay row 1 onto row 2 with right sides together.  Lay row 3 onto row 4 with right sides together.  Make sure to line up the seams.  There are lots so use lots of pins.  Sew your 1/4″ seam along your two pinned lines and press.  Now repeat the same process by first laying row 5 onto the now sewn together row 3 and 4 with right sides together.  Line up your seams, pin, sew, and press.  Then last but not least.  Lay your now sewn together rows 1 and 2 onto your now sewn together rows 3, 4, and 5, pin, sew, and press. 

 You just have to add the border and you are done with the top 🙂  Yippee Skipee!





STEP 5 – BORDERING THE BLOCKS


To start, we have one more cutting step.  Sorry, I totally spaced this when I was cutting the first time.  Remember that one scrap strip of blue and white checks that I told you to set aside? Well pull it out.  Go ahead and cut it into (4) 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.  

Grab all the bits and pieces for your borders.  It is pretty much what is left 🙂  The 8 Whiteish strips that are 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ and 12 four patch rows, and your newly cut four 2 1/2″ squares.

This is the layout for your border.  You will be making 4 of these.  Layout a 4 patch row followed by the first print of the white strips, followed by a 4 patch row, followed by the second print of the white strips, and ended with another 4 patch row.  

Start on the end of the row and lay your first two pieces right sides together.  Pin the edges and sew a 1/4″ seam and press.  Repeat for the other three rows.  Now keep adding on pieces in this manner until the entire row is created.  Make sure to repeat each piece of the row for all 4 rows 🙂 

So now your rows are created and you are ready to add them to your quilt top.  Lay a border piece along each side of your quilt top.  Make sure to mix match your white border pieces from the block pieces so that they are opposite prints.  (see the arrows)  

Lay your border piece along the edge of your quilt with right sides together.  Pin along the edge making sure to match up your seams.  Once again, there will be lots so use plenty of pins.  Repeat with the second side. You know what to do from here 🙂  Sew your 1/4″ seam along both edges and press 🙂

Now you are ready to add the top and bottom border.  This is where those little 2 1/2″ squares come in.  We are going to add them to the ends 🙂  Grab your remaining 2 border strips and lay a 2 1/2″ blue/white check square on the last square of each end with right sides together.  Pin, sew a 1/4″ seam along all 4 ends, and press.

Now, to add them to the quilt top 🙂  Almost done, are you just so excited ???  Lay your top and bottom borders along the top and bottom of your quilt top with right sides together.  Once again, as you pin make sure to line up your seams 🙂  And lastly, sew your 1/4″ seam along both top and bottom and press.

And you have done it!!!  One adorable top that is ready to be turned into one adorable Snuggly Squares baby quilt!





STEP 5 – FINISHING UP

Your backing is already cut to the perfect size so no need to fiddle with that.  Just give it a good pressing 🙂

And you are ready to put your quilt together.   First – make your quilt sandwich. It really helps to tape your backing down onto a wood floor.  The backing will be close but you should have enough.  If you find that you did your seams a little small and the top is to big for the back you can always grab some of your scraps and add to your piece 🙂   Baste the sandwich… seriously, the more pins the better.

Now onto quilting.  I choose to do a medium size stipple in a cute blue. If you are new to quilting, there are tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting, just Google it and practice or you can always just send it out to be quilted.  There are some amazing long arm quilters out there 🙂  

Last but not least, binding.  Remember those strips you cut up at the very beginning? It is time for those to make their appearance.  If you are not sure on how to make a binding or attach it there is a great tutorial  here.

And you are done!!  Way to go!  Don’t you just love it!!!!  




One adorable ready to be cuddled 43″ x 43″ Snuggly Squares II Baby Quilt!!!







Thanks for sewing along with me and Happy Quilting 🙂

Melissa Corry

Flowers in the Park Table Topper

Hi!  I’m Tilly from The Quilt Asylum, and our store owner Susan Allen has had the best time playing in Central Park with these fun Dresden Flowers.  Take a minute to see how easy this quilt can be!

1 Charm Pack (40 – 5″ squares)
7/8 yard background
1/3 yd EACH of 2 fabrics for block frames
1/8 yd for flower centers
3/8 yd binding
1-1/8 yd backing

I chose to use Central Park by Kate Spain, along with Bellas Solids in Stone and Yellow.

Easy Dresden Template Set by EZ

**Alternate sizing and fabric requirements using a Jelly Roll or Layer Cake can be found at the end of this tutorial.


Bigger Perfect Circle Templates by Karen Kay Buckley


Select 40 squares from your charm pack.  I usually take out two that are duplicates or contrast the least with the background fabric.  Make 8 stacks of 5 squares each.
Place the Easy Dresden Template on top of one stack of 5 squares, positioning the 5″ line at the top of the square.  You will be cutting 2 wedges from each square, so make sure you leave room to cut another wedge.  Don’t take the first wedge out of the center!

Cut out the first set of wedges.  Reposition the template with the 5″ line at the bottom and cut out the second wedge.

Repeat with the 7 other stacks of squares.  You will need a total of 80 wedge pieces.
I placed all my left wedges in one stack and all my right wedges in another stack.  By working with one stack at a time in the next step, I eliminated the duplication of fabrics in each Dresden flower.
Take one stack of 40 wedges to your sewing machine.  Pick up the first wedge and fold it right sides together vertically, aligning the wide upper edges and pin.

Sew a 1/4″ seam across the top of the wedge.  Continue chain piecing all 40 wedges across the top.

Here are my pieces all chained together.
Cut the wedges apart and clip the folded corners with scissors.

Finger press the seam open.
Turn the wedges right side out and push out the point using bamboo creaser included in your template set.  If you happen to have misplaced your bamboo creaser, a Purple Thang or any blunt-pointed tool will work as well.
Once all of your wedges have been turned, go to your ironing board and press down the wedge points to make flower petals, aligning the seam with the center of the wedge.  Press all 40 petals.
You have enough petals to make 2 flowers at this time.  Divide the petals into 2 stacks of 20, evenly distributing colors and patterns.
Lay out a set of 20 petals in a pleasing manner.

Pin the petals into pairs and take them to your sewing machine.

When sewing your petals together, you want to line up the petal points from folded edges along the long side of the petal.  Place your needle 1/4″ down from the folded edge, backstitch to the folded edge, then continue forward down the long side.  By starting 1/4″ from the edge and backstitching to the edge, you will eliminate those tiny thread “hairs” from showing on the front of your flower when you clip your threads.  The thread ends will be hidden on the back of your flower!

Chain piece the other 9 pairs in the same manner.
When all 10 pairs are sewn, press the seams open.
Arrange your pairs in a circle, and continue joining petals to make 2 flower halves. 
Join the two haves into one large flower.  Don’t worry if the edges of your petals in the center circle don’t line up exactly.  You’ll cover all that up with your flower center.
Press all the seams open.
Sew your second set of petals together in this same manner.  Repeat the entire process with the second set of 40 wedges to make 2 additional flowers, for a total of 4 flowers.
From your background, cut (2) 14-1/2″ strips.  I use the June Tailor Shape Cut template when cutting large pieces or multiple strips of th same size.  The Shape Cut has slots every 1/2″.  Fold your fabric – folded edge to selvedge edge.  Place the Shape Cut with the bottom line against the bottom fold of the fabric.  
Make a cut at the 0 marking to square up the left edge and then make another cut at the 14-1/2″ slot. 
Reposition the Shape Cut to make a second 14-1/2″ cut.  Open up the first fold, stack the two strips together, and cut (4) 14-1/2″ background squares.
Crease a background square lightly into quarters.  Place a flower ring on the background, aligning the four quadrants of the flower with the crease lines.  Pin flower to background.
At this point, you have several options for sewing your flower to your background.  You can hand applique or you can topstitch along the folded edges with your machine.  I chose to use Sulky Premium Invisible Thread and a very tiny zigzag stitch (1.0, 1.0).  I get the look of hand applique in just a fraction of the time!  
I would also suggest that you stitch down the flower center 1/8″ from the raw edges.This will keep everything nice and flat when you add your flower center.
From your flower center fabric, cut (4) approximately 4-1/2″ squares.
You also have a couple of choices when adding your flower center circles to your blocks.  You can hand applique by the method of your choice, you can use fusible web and iron on your circle, or you can machine applique.  I chose to machine applique, again using the Sulky Invisible Thread.  
I’m going to show you a slick way to prepare the circle using Karen Kay Buckley’s Bigger Perfect Circle templates.
The cardboard cover of your Dresden template set has a circle drawing on the inside cover.  It measures approximately 3-1/8″.  Instead of using that drawing to make my own template, I selected the Bigger Perfect Circle template that fit my flower best.  Perfect Circles are made of heat-resistant plastic.
Due to the translucent nature of the template, I could tell that this circle covered the hole by a 1/4″ all the way around.  FYI – this circle measures 3-1/2″ in diameter.
Trace around the circle on the wrong side of your 4-1/2″ squares using a pencil.
Cut out your circles, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Thread a needle and hand baste around the circle as if you were making a yo-yo.  Do not clip the thread.

Take the circle of fabric and your Perfect Circle template to your ironing board.  Place the template on the fabric circle (matching the drawn line) and pull the thread to gather the fabric.
Press the edges with your iron, keeping the gathering thread taut.
After pressing the edges, I will turn the circle over (while still holding the gathering thread) and press again from the front using a spritz of Mary Ellen’s Best Press or sizing.  You can now clip the thread, leaving a 2″ tail.  Once the circle has cooled, you can slightly release the gathering threads just enough to pull the template out.  Tug on the tail of the thread to gather the circle back into shape.
The package of Bigger Perfect Circles has 2 templates of each size.  You can press a second circle while the first one is cooling in order to speed up this process.
After your circles have been prepared, fold and finger press center creases in both directions.  Lay your circle on your flower, lining up the creases with the flower seams.
Pin in place and zig-zag stitch with invisible thread.
Using the Shape Cut Ruler, cut (4) 2-1/2″ strips from both of your 1/3 yard cuts for your block frames.
Subcut each fabric into (8) 2-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ rectangles and (8) 2-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ squares.
Sew (2) Fabric 1 squares on to the ends of (4) Fabric 2 rectangles, and vice versa.  Press towards the rectangle.
Lay out your blocks as shown and sew the frames to the (4) flower blocks, pressing away from center. 
Lay out your blocks and sew them together.
Quilt and bind using (4) 2-1/4″ strips.
One 36″x36″ Table Topper!
** Alternate Sizing:  You can make these same blocks (and bigger quilts) with a Jelly Roll or a Layer Cake.  The sewing instructions remain the same.
Jelly Roll Quilt – 16 Blocks, 72″x72″
1 Jelly Roll (40 Strips)
3-3/8 yd background
1-1/4yd EACH of two frame fabrics
5/8 yd binding
4-1/4 yds backing
Cutting Instructions:
  • Cut (8) 2-1/2″ x 5″ rectangles from (40) Jelly Roll strips for a total of 320 rectangles.  Cut 320 wedges using the Easy Dresden template.
  • Cut (16) 14-1/2″ background squares.
  • From EACH frame fabric, cut (16) 2-1/2″ stips.  Subcut each fabric into (32) 2-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ rectangles and (32) 2-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ squares.
Set the blocks 4 x 4.
Layer Cake Quilt – 20 Blocks, 72″x90″
1 Layer Cake (40 -10″ squares)
4-1/4 yd background
1-1/2yd EACH of two frame fabrics
3/4 yd binding
5-1/2 yds backing
Cutting Instructions:
  • Stack Layer Cakes into (8) stacks of 5 squares.  Cut the stack in half, creating (2) stacks of 5″ x 10″ rectangles.  With careful cutting, you should be able to cut (5) sets of wedges from each 5″x10″ stack.  Cut a total 400 wedges using the Easy Dresden template.
  • Cut (20) 14-1/2″ background squares.
  • From EACH frame fabric, cut (20) 2-1/2″ stips.  Subcut each fabric into (40) 2-1/2″ x 14-1/2″ rectangles and (40) 2-1/2″ x 2-1/2″ squares.
Set the blocks 4 x 5.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial – maybe you learned something new!  My goal is to provide quality instructions while including a different technique, a tip or a trick to add to your assortment of skills.  If you are ever in the McKinney, Texas area, stop by and say hello.  You can also subscribe to our newsletter, view more tutorials on our blog, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter.  See you next time!
Susan Allen

{The Quilt Asylum}

Just Playin’ A-Round!

Hi, Everyone!  I’m Val from PinkPlease!, cooking up my very first Moda Bake Shop recipe.  When I was making this play mat, I felt like half of the Jelly Roll was being cut off and thrown into my scrap bin.  I thought there has got to be a way to reuse these scraps … and Voila! … the changing pad was born!  You just can’t beat two quilts made from one Jelly Roll!

I am completely in love with all things MoMo, and when I saw her new fabric line, “Just Wing It,” I knew these quilts would be a perfect fit!  I’ve partnered up with Fat Quarter Shop to bring you a giveaway to help start your quilts.  You gotta play to win, so hurry on over to my blog for your chance!
1 Jelly Roll of MoMo’s Just Wing It (#32440JR) for top(s)
2 yards of Just Wing It (#32440 27) for backing(s)
1/2 yard (#32445 20) for binding(s)

I intermixed a few Bella solids, but you can definitely complete the top of both quilts with just one Jelly Roll.

***All seam allowances are ¼”.***


***Read the entire recipe before starting.  By doing this, you will learn how to make both the play mat and the changing pad simultaneously.


***It may not be a bad idea to use a stronger 90/14 needle since it gets quite congested in the middle of the quilt towards the end.  I used an 80/12 needle for both of these quilts, but on another play mat I made, I used an 80/12 needle and it broke when I got to the center of the quilt (when the quilt was almost complete), flew at me, and almost took my eye out.  …just sayin’!***

Creating the Play Mat

1.  Cut the entire Jelly Roll in half, creating 80 (2 ½” x  22″) strips.


2.   Set out all your strips in a circular pattern to determine your sewing order.  For the play mat, you will need approx. 68 strips.  (You’ll need to set aside 3 additional colored strips for your changing pad.)
 


3.  Choose your first strip and lay it right side up on your cutting mat.





4.  Cut the strip diagonally lengthwise starting at the top right corner and cutting to ¼” over from the bottom left corner (I know this sounds confusing so I’ve taken a close-up photo below for a visual aid). This ¼” provides the necessary seam allowance for attaching the next strip.  Make sure the selvage is always the widest part of your strip (this will be the outside edge of the quilt(s)) when you both cut and sew.  On second thought, it would be pretty cool to put your selvages toward the center of your quilt so the middle could scream “Mo Mo, Mo Mo, Mo Mo!”




5.  Here is what the first piece looks like after it’s cut.


The piece of the left will be used for the play mat,
the scrap on the right will be used for the changing pad.



6.  Don’t throw away the scrap you just cut!  This will be used to make your changing pad.

7.  With right sides together, pin (if you choose) and sew your second full uncut strip to the first diagonal piece, sewing from the outside (selvage) of the quilt to the middle/inside.


8.  Press seams open.



9.  Place the two pieces you’ve sewn together right side up on your cutting mat.  Cut the second strip (on the right) as you did in step 4 (above), starting from the top right corner and cutting on the diagonal down the length of the strip to ¼” over from the bottom left corner of the second strip.  

10.  With right sides together, sew the third full strip to the second diagonal piece.

11.  Press seams open.

12.  Place the three pieces you’ve sewn together right side up on your cutting mat.  Again, cut the third strip (the strip on the right side) as you did in Step 4, starting at the top right corner and cutting on the diagonal to the bottom left corner, leaving ¼” seam allowance intact.

13.  Repeat steps 3-7 for the remaining 65 strips.
Make sure to always leave 1/4″ in the center when cutting off your scrap strip.

14.  When it is time to sew the final seam connecting the last diagonally cut strip to the beginning first strip, I have found that it is most effective to sew this strip starting from the middle of the quilt and sewing toward the outside to make sure everything lines up nicely.  Sew slowly, so your needle can get through all those layers without breaking (and taking out an eye!)



15.  After you have sewn the last strip to the first, press the seams open.  As you will notice, the middle gets a little crazy.  When pressing, don’t worry about the middle so much.  Let it go where it wants to go.  Just make sure to press the seams open as well as you can on the outer portion of the quilt. 





16.  Your play mat will now look like this.




17.  Once you have the top completed, it’s time to sandwich, baste, quilt, bind, and wash your play mat.  When basting, I recommend used basting spray to hold the top nicely in place.  I quilted the entire playmat first and then trimmed off the selvages from the edges before binding.    

18.  When binding, make sure to cut your binding on the bias for maximum smoothness around the curves. 


19.  Here is what your finished Baby Play Mat will look like.  Throw it on the floor and be the envy of all the parents at your next play date!
Here’s the Back… (did I mention that I LOVE MoMo?)
Creating the Changing Pad

The changing pad is a breeze to make because your strips are already cut into triangles.  As scraps are cut from the play mat, you can start sewing them together to make this changing pad. Each time you cut a new scrap, immediately sew it onto the changing pad.  If you do it this way, you will be pleasantly surprised to have two completed quilt tops finished at the exact same time.  Keep in mind, the changing pad uses 3 more strips than the play mat, so if you want to add a strip into the changing mat at a specific spot, other than at the end, be aware of it while you are sewing and don’t forget to add it in.  I just added my three extra strips at the very end.  I know it doesn’t seem logical that the smaller changing pad uses more strips than the larger play mat, but it really does.  Here is a picture of what it will look like when you’ve finished the play mat and still need to add the 3 strips to the changing pad.

1.  You will basically be using the same technique as used in making the play mat.  Choose your first two strips you plan to sew together.  You can either follow the same order that you used for the play mat, or you can mix it up. I chose to follow the same order.
2.  Take your first strip and lay it right side up.
3.  Lay your second strip on top of the first strip (right sides together).  The pinked edge of the top piece (strip 2) should be on the right side. (This is the side you will sew).  Sew the two pieces together.

4.  Press seams open.

5.  Turn the two pieces you’ve sewn together right side up. If you’ll notice, the strip on the right looks a little wavy.  You’ll want to straighten’er up.

….Ahhh much better!

6.  With right sides together, sew the third strip to the second diagonal piece.  The pinked edge of the top piece (strip 3) should be on the right side.

7.  Press seams open.

8.  Turn the three sewn pieces right side up on your cutting mat.  Trim the strip up as you did before removing any waviness.  Make sure to leave your 1/4″ seam allowance at the bottom.

9.  You will now notice that there is extra fabric starting to accumulate at the center of your changing pad.  You will want to trim the center up all the way to where your piece on the far right is 1/4″ wide.  Measure the length of your fabric at this point.  Then, as you start adding strips to your changing pad, you will want to cut all strips to this length (see photo in step 10 below).  Here’s a picture to better show this.
10.  Trim your next strip to the same length as the others.  Pin and sew.
11.  Press seams open. Turn fabric right side up and trim so there is 1/4″ at the bottom-center of the right most piece.
12.  Repeat this process all the way around the changing pad.

13.  As with the play mat, when it is time to sew the final seam, connecting the last diagonally cut strip to strip 1, sew the seam starting from the middle and sewing toward the outer edge of the quilt.

14.  Once you have the top complete, just like the play mat, it’s time to sandwich, baste, quilt, bind, & wash.  

15.  Yeah!  You’re finished.  Now pat yourself on the back and admire your beautiful new quilts!! 

The finished play mat is approximately 38 ½” in diameter (after washing).
The finished changing pad is approximately 28 ½” in diameter (after washing).
I’d love to see the wonderful creations you come up with!  Please add your pictures to my PinkPlease! flickr group as well as the Moda Bake Shop flickr groups!
…oh, and if you’re interested in knowing the secret of how I magically photographed these levitating quilts…come on over to my bloggie blog for an all-access look behind the scenes.
Make sure to leave me a note!  
I love comments!
~Val

Sunkissed Aprons

Hi there Moda Bake Shop Bakers, it is LeAnne over at Everyday Celebrations. With all the baking going on around here, it is about time to make some aprons!  The great thing about this project is you can pick whatever fabric line you love to make aprons that fit your personality. One layer cake will yield at least four aprons. Or, since only 10 squares are needed, use some leftover layer cake squares from a previous project.  Whatever layer cake you decide to use will result in a darling apron that will make you want to get baking in the kitchen or the sewing room!

 {Absolutely loving the color combo of gray and yellow!}

1 Layer Cake
3/4 yard for lining and front of apron ( 1 1/4 yards if you are going to increase the size of the apron)
1/2 yard for ties and straps
1/4 yard neutral fabric (this will not be seen)
Pattern piece, found in the Printer Friendly Version. Make sure ‘auto scale’ and/or ‘shrink to fit’ option ARE NOT SELECTED.



Note on Sizing:
This apron fits teens (as modeled) through adult. (I wear a size medium/large top and I still had room in this apron.) To get an idea how this apron will fit on you, take a tape measure and measure 21″ from  hip to hip. This is how the apron will measure across you when finished. The apron top measures about 14″ across at the bust.  Instructions for increasing the size of the pattern are included with the Printer Friendly Version.  (In the measurements an * indicates where changes need to be made if you are altering the size of the apron.)

1. Unfold your 3/4 yard of fabric. Fold one selvage to the middle of the fabric. (Make sure it is the EXACT middle or you may not have enough for the lining.) Place pattern piece on the fold and cut. This will be the ‘front’ of your apron. You will cut the lining from the remaining fabric shown in the photo.

Optional: To make a pieced section at the top of the apron, as shown in the gray and yellow apron, cut the apron front as marked on the pattern piece. (For the lining however, cut as directed in step 2.)

Next, cut out the following pieces from the layer cake squares:
(1) 2.5″ x 3.75″
(2) 3″ x 3.75″ 
(1) 2″ x 3.75″
(1) 4″ x 3.75″
(1) 1.75″ x 3.75″

Sew the pieces RST end-to-end using 1/4″ seam allowance. The length of this piece should be about 13.5″. Press seams open. Sew this piece to the top edge of the apron front using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seam open. To curve the edge of this new piece, fold the apron front in half and use the pattern piece to trim to size.

2.  From the remaining fabric above, cut (1) 25″ long x 21.75″* wide piece. Fold in half, matching the long edges. Place pattern piece on the fold as shown below. Cut only along the curved edge of the apron as shown in the second photo below.

 3. When you unfold the lining it will look like this:

4. From the neutral fabric cut:
(3) 4″ x 21.75″* pieces (for the under ruffle pieces)

From the 1/2 yard strap and tie fabric cut:
(4) 3.5″ x WOF pieces (ties) – trim selvages off and cut to 36″ in length
(1) 2.25″ x WOF piece (strap) – trim selvage off and cut in half

5. Take (2) 3.5″ x 36″ tie pieces and place RST. (Pressing helps keep edges lined up.) With the two ties still RST angle one end of the tie as shown below. Repeat for remaining tie.

6. Sew the tie RST using 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave the not angled end open for turning. Clip corners at the angled end of the strap. Turn right side out and press. Repeat for remaining tie. 

7. Topstitch around the tie about 1/8″ away from the edge. (I did not topstitch the opening.) Repeat for remaining tie.

8. Press under 1/4″ on one of the short ends of a strap. (This end will be the end you want showing on the apron.)

9. Fold the strap in half lengthwise and press to crease. Unfold the strap and fold one long edge to the center crease. Press. Repeat for the other side.

10.  Fold strap in half again and press. (The raw edges will now be turned to the inside.)

11. Sew the strap closed by starting at the end that you folded under. Start sewing away from fold and continue down the open side of the strap. Backstitch at the beginning and end. (Basically I didn’t sew down the folded edge of the strap.) Repeat steps 8 -11 for the other strap.

12. Select 8 – 10 Layer Cake Squares. Cut in half so they measure 5″x10″. (You will only need 16 5″x10″ rectangles, so you can either choose 8 Layer Cake squares and use each print twice, or choose 10 Layer Cake squares to have a little  more variety in prints.)  Lay out the 5″x10 rectangles in four rows of four to help you determine which prints you want to make up each ruffle strip.

13. Sew each row of four rectangles together short end to short end using 1/4″ seam allowance. Press seams open.  (These seams will be the only exposed raw edges. Serge or zig zag if you desire. However, I just left the pinked edges as they were.)

14. Turn under the bottom edge of ruffle strip 1/4″ and press. Repeat. Sew folded edge in place.

15. Turn under the short ends of each ruffle strip 1/4″ and press. Repeat. Sew folded edge in place. Repeat steps 14 – 15 for all the ruffle strips.

16. Ruffle the top edge of each ruffle strip using the method of your choice. (Ruffle about 1/8″ away from the edge.) Need help with ruffling? Check out my tutorial here. Repeat for all the ruffle strips.

So pretty!

17.  On the apron front piece and three under ruffle pieces, mark 1/4″ from both bottom short ends. (See my purple marks below.)

18. With the right side down, pin one ruffle strip to the bottom edge of the apron front. Use the mark you made above to place the ruffle strip 1/4″ away from the edges of the apron front. I like to place a pin at the bottom of ruffle strip to keep the strip nice and straight. (See green pin in the second picture.) Sew ruffle in place 1/8″ away from the edge.

19. With the ruffle strip still right side down, place one under ruffle piece on top of the ruffle strip.  (Make sure the edge with the purple mark is at the top. See outlined black circle.)

20. Flip over the apron to the back and pin under ruffle piece in place. (I pin from the back because I will be sewing on the back.)

21. Sew just beyond the stitching line from sewing on the ruffle, about 3/8″ from the edge. Backstitch at beginning and end. Press seam up towards the top of the apron. Topstitch the seam in place.

22. Turn the ruffle to the top of the apron. You will now see the under ruffle piece. Place another ruffle strip right side down and repeat steps 18 – 21 for remaining ruffle strips/under ruffle pieces except for the very last ruffle strip. 

23.  When you add the last ruffle strip, you will only repeat step 18.

24.  Mark 1/4″ from the bottom of the curve on the apron front. Place a tie below the mark and pin as shown. Baste tie in place with 1/8″ seam allowance. Repeat on the other side. (Keep tie pinned down in the middle of the apron.)

25. Mark 1/4″ in along the top edge of the apron. Line up the edge of a strap with the mark and pin. Baste strap in place with 1/8″ seam allowance. Repeat on the other side.

26. Since this apron is lined, pin the straps to the middle of the apron to keep  in place.

27. Using basting pins, pin the ruffles away from the edges and to the center of the apron.

28. Place the lining and the apron RST and pin from the back. (Again, I like to sew from the back so I can watch my stitching lines.) Sew the apron together using 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave an opening along the bottom for turning. After sewing, press, clip corners, and turn. Remove all pins.

29. Topstitch beginning along the bottom edge, making sure to close the opening.  Continue top stitching around the rest of the apron. When you get to a ruffle, backstitch, stop sewing then remove apron from machine. Clip threads, return apron to the machine, and begin sewing after the ruffle.


One layer cake will yield 4 – 8 aprons

LeAnne Ballard
{Everyday Celebrations}

Peppermint Snowballs Quilt


Hello, it’s Corey Yoder from Little Miss Shabby back again with another fun little quilt.  I think Aneela totally nailed her debut fabric line for Moda, Sherbet Pips, & I came up with this quilt to showcase some of her oh so cute prints.  Snowball blocks meet Peppermint Pinwheel blocks….Peppermint Snowballs Quilt. =)

**All seams are to be sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance

1 Sherbet Pips Layer Cake
1 1/4 Bella Solids White (9900-98)
1/3 Yard Binding Fabric Sherbet Pips Gray Dot (18505-19)
3 Yards Backing Fabric Sherbet Pips Girl on Swing (18500-11)


Begin by choosing 12 of your favorite prints from the layer cake.  These will be used for the snowball blocks.  I chose the dog, scooter, & tree prints.  From the remaining layer cake squares, choose 5 squares to be used for the pinwheels–I went with the solid/dot fabrics you see below.

Trim each of the Snowball squares to 9.5″ square.  From the layers you have chosen for the Pinwheel blocks, cut a total of 7 strips 2.5″ x 10″ (1 strip from each square plus an extra strip from two of the prints).  Subcut the strips int 2.5″ squares.

From the remaining 25 layer cake squares cut:

(48) strips 2″ x 10″ (these will be used for the pieced square border around the pinwheel blocks)–cut 2 strips from each layer cake square

(14) strips 2.5″ x 10″–subcut into 2.5″ squares (these will be used for the hst blocks on the corners of the Pinwheel blocks)–choose these strips at random from remaining layer cake squares, don’t cut more than one strip per fabric

(10) strips 2″x 10″–subcut into 2″ squares (these will be used for the outermost triangle on the Snowball blocks)–choose these strips at random from remaining layer cake squares,  don’t cut more than one strip per fabric

From the White Solid Fabric cut:

(4) strips 3.5″ x WOF–subcut into (48) 3.5″ squares
(3) strips 2″ x WOF–subcut into (26) 2″ x 3.5″ rectangles
(6) strips 2″ x WOF–subcut into (26) 2″ x 6.5″ rectangles
(2) strips 2.5″ x WOF–subcut into (26) 2.5″ squares

On the back of each white 3.5″ square, each white 2.5″ square, each Sherbet Pips 2″ square, and 1/2 of the Sherbet Pips 2.5″ squares draw a diagonal line from corner to corner.

*Please note that I do not have the white 2.5″ squares pictured above–make sure to include them just as the instructions read.*

Assembling the Snowball Blocks

Begin by sewing one 3.5″ white square to each corner of a 9.5″ layer cake square.  Sew directly on the diagonal line–pay attention to the orientation of the diagonal.

Trim each corner 1/4″ from sewn line on each corner.

Press open.

Now you will repeat the same process using the Sherbet Pips 2″ squares.  Place a 2″ square right sides together on each corner of the snowball block.  You will sew a diagonal line directly on your drawn line–pay attention to the orientation of the diagonal.

Trim corners 1/4″ from sewn line & press open.

Continue until you have completed all 12 Snowball Blocks.

Assembling the Pinwheel Blocks
Begin by placing one white 2.5″ square right sides together with one Sherbet Pips 2.5″ square.

Sew 1/4″ away from the diagonal on each side of the drawn line.

Cut on drawn line.

Press to the Sherbet Pips fabric. Repeat these steps to make a total of 52 triangle units.  Trim all hst units to 2″ square.

Now we will repeat these steps to make the triangle units for the outermost corners of the pinwheel block.   Begin by placing (2) 2.5″ Sherbet Pips Squares right sides together.

Sew 1/4″ away from the drawn diagonal line just like you did for the Pinwheel blocks a moment ago.  Cut apart on the diagonal line and press open to the darker fabric.  Trim all hst units to 2″ square.

You will end up with a bunch of fun little half square triangle units. 52 of the Sherbet Pips/Sherbet Pips units & 52 of the White/Sherbet Pips units.

To make the pinwheel units, sew together 4 of the white/sherbet pips units pressing seams to the Sherbet Pips fabric.

Sew together to complete the pinwheel unit.

Continue sewing all of the pinwheels together until you have a lovely little stack of them.
Next, sew a 2″ x 3.5″ white rectangle to the top and bottom of the pinwheel block.  Then, sew a 2″ x 6.5″ rectangle to the right and left of the pinwheel.  Press seams out.

Sew all of the pinwheel blocks in this manner.

Now we will begin sewing together the 2″ x 10″ strips in sets of four.  Press open to one side.

Continue until you have sewn together all of the strips.

Subcut into 2″ strips.

Now we will sew one of the half square triangle units onto each end of 26 of the strip sets.  Please note:  It is very important that the diagonals are oriented exactly as shown for each strip.  Press seams toward the center.

Continue until you have sewn triangle units onto each end of 26 of the strips.

Now we can assemble these blocks.

Begin by sewing one of the 4 square strips to the top and bottom of the pinwheel unit.  Press away from the center.

Sew the remaining strips to the right and left of the block making sure to orient the diagonals as pictured.

And Voila–completed pinwheel blocks.

You are ready to assemble the quilt as shown.

Once you have your blocks sewn together (25 blocks total — 5 blocks x 5 blocks) you are ready to sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, and bind. 
A fabulous 45″x45″ quilt showcasing Aneela’s wonderful fabrics!  Enjoy!

Corey Yoder
{Little Miss Shabby}