Princess Pea Blanket

1 Honey Bun – featured Spring Magic by April Cornell
Layer Cake Squares or scraps for Applique’
1/2 yard of coordinating fabric for blanket front
1 3/4 yards of coordinating fabric for backing.
1 1/2 yards of coodrinating fabrics for ruffle trim.
1 3/4 yards of batting – featured Kyoto batting by Luna batting by Moda
3 yards each of various coordinating colors of ric-rac and other trim embellishments.
1 green button for the pea
Printed applique pattern for the Princess
Coordinating threads for applique
Wonder-Under fusible web

Separate your honey bun into the appropriate colorways and decide on a color pattern (green, pink, teal, yellow, green, pink…) Start with your first strip and add a trim embellishment.
Add your second color strip right sides together. I used a white Moda scalloped trim and ric rac between the strips to act as a sheet in between the stacked mattresses.

Continue adding strips and trims until you have sewn all 40 strips together.

Cut your coordinating fabric for the blanket front, 16″ wide by the width of the fabric. Sew to the top of your strips or “stacked mattresses”.
Iron all the strips down going in one direction. The raw edges should all be going toward the top of the blanket.

Topstitch all the strips about an 1/8″ on the bottom of each strip tacking the raw edge down on the back.

Print out the Applique pattern from the Printable version and cut out all the pieces.

Decide on what fabrics to use for each piece. I used layer cake squares as they are perfect size for the appliques and I have the whole range to choose from for my princess. For the face and hands I used a Moda wool in a flesh tone color.

Apply Wonder-Under (or other fusible web) to each of the fabrics for your applique.

Trace around all the applique pieces onto the fusible side of each of your fabric selections. Wonder-Under has a paper on one side so you can easily trace and cut before you peel it off to fuse it to your project.

For the dress, mark where the sleeve is located with a fabric pencil so when you machine applique you can stitch in the sleeve for the dress.

Layout all your pieces together before ironing so if you need to make adjustments you can still do so. Once you have everything where you want it… iron down in place.

Machine or hand applique your princess to your blanket.

Round off the corners using a bowl or something round as a guide. This will make it easier when sewing the ruffle on around the corners.
From your coodinating fabric for the ruffle trim, cut 8 strips all 6″ wide by the width of the fabric. Sew all the strips together end to end creating one long strip. Iron in half length wise now making your strip 3″ doubled on fold. I used a ruffle foot on my machine to create the ruffle. You can also do this by stitching a long loose stitch and then pull one of the threads delicately creating a ruffle. If you do it by hand, then you will need to make sure you stitch your ruffle down in place so it does not come undone when adding to your blanket.

Sew your ruffle on to your blanket top with the ruffle facing in towards the blanket. I like to start my ruffle end even with my raw edge of my blanket top to conceal any raw edges.
Then simply turn the ruffle edge to match up with the blanket edge and stitch all around the blanket.

When you get back all the way around to the other end, overlap the two ruffles about an inch or two and then curve the end down and sew across the raw edge to conceal the edge when attaching the back.

Trim off any excess ruffle so it is even with the raw edge of the blanket top.

Now it is time to sandwich the blanket with your batting. I wanted a loftier feel so I used two layers of batting. Lay the batting down first.

Next lay the blanket backing on top of the batting with the right side up. Use safety pins into your carpet to help hold it tight and straight.

Next layer the blanket top right side down facing the right side of the backing. Be sure your ruffle in sandwiched between your backing and blanket top. Pin all around the blanket edges to make sure it will not shift when sewing. Sew your layers together like a big pillow. Leave about a 6-8 inch opening for turning. Also be sure that sew with a seam allowance large enought to hide your seams on the ruffle.

Flip your blanket right side out so that your batting is now sandwiched between your backing and top. The ruffle will now be on the edges of your blanket as your trim. Stitch the opening closed by machine or hand.

To hold the batting in place, I tied off the blanket with a coodinating Mettler cordonnet thread. Decide on what mattress your pea (button) will reside and hand sew in place.

One adorable little blanket for your special princess!
Angela Yosten

Simple Strip Baby Quilt

• Moda Charm Pack Butterfly Fling by Me and My Sisters
• 1 yard coordinating print sashing & borders #22081=14 Yolk Yellow in Flight
• Backing 2 1/2 yards light green or other print
• binding 1/2 yard #22085-11 Pretty Pink Squiggle Flys
• Batting 54X45
• basic quilting supplies

Choose 36 charms from the charm pack. I placed 4-5 charms in each stack.

I set the 4 left overs off to the side for a future project.

Trim all 36 charms to 4 3/4 inch. It doesn’t leave but a scrap….

Lay out your charms in a pleasing arrangement of 4 rows of 9 squares each. I have a design wall which is invaluable for making quilts.

Sew them together end to end…

Press each block as you sew it.

Next cut your borders. I am about to square up my strip to 4 3/4 inch X WOF

Cut (7) strips 4 3/4 inch X WOF. Then measure your pieced charm strip…it should be about 39 inches.

I placed them on the design wall to preview and decide IF I really like the yellow print for the sashing. Then I cross-cut 5 strips 39 inches X 4 3/4 inches.

Layer a pieced strip ON TOP of the sashing strip…and pin pin pin…that way as you sew you can be sure your seems are being sewn and it seems to prevent slipping of my fabric. Sew 5 vertical strips between pieced strips and on the sides, as shown above. I didn’t take a picture sewing actually…I got too excited and realized they were ALL sewn on! The top and bottom borders are approximately 39 inches wide. Measure your quilt before you cut to be sure you haven’t lost width during the sewing process. Sew on top and bottom borders and the quilt top it DONE!
It took me about 2 hours to sew this quilt top, it’s THAT simple.

Now my quilt top will be off to my quilter…or you could finish it like the one below. I layered and quilted it with straight lines to finish it for my daughters birth about 2 years ago. With the Butterfly Fling fabric I’d really like an overall flowery or butterfly meander for quilting. The fabric and my mood determine that. My daughters quilt below is made with a Moda charm pack “Apron Strings”. I blogged it here.

One Simple Strip Baby Quilt ~ 39X48 inches

Have a Great Day!

Clara’s Quilt

2 Candy Kisses Charm packs (70-5″ squares)
3/4 yard border
1/2 yard binding

randomly chain piece 35 pairs ( 70-5″ squares) of charms together

take 28 of the sets of 2’s and sew together ( set aside 7 sets of 2 until later)

This will give you 14 sets of 4’s

take the sets of 4’s and sew to another set of 4.

this will give you 7 sets of 8’s. Take your leftover sets of 2’s (that you set aside earlier) and match up a set of 8 with a set of 2. Sew together so you have 7 strips with 10 charms.

sew these rows together

Borders- Cut 5 strips at 4.5″. You will use 3 of these for the side borders, which you will put on first. Then you will use the 2 leftover strips for the top and bottom borders.

Binding- Cut 6 strips at 2″( or your size of preference) join these together for your binding.

One super duper simple quilt 40 x 53″!!! Sew easy you don’t mind giving it away!

by angie of all washed up

Fabric Lamp Shade

1 patisserie honey bun
lamp shade
big sheets of paper
quilt basting spray
perle cotton thread size 8 in ecru

decorative trims, rick rack &/or buttons

remove lamp shade from lamp stand.
tape a few big pieces of paper together.
{i used three 18×34 pieces of drawing paper and taped them together.}
you’ll want to make sure that you have a nice, big work area of paper.
place the lamp shade on it’s side, lining up the seam with the paper.

trace the bottom & top edge of the shade with your pencil,

slowly rolling the shade as you go, until you get back at the seam.
{as shown by my hubby.}
hint: this part is MUCH easier with 2 people.
your paper will look something like this.
{click the pic to enlarge.}
extend the lines by an inch, as shown.

draw a straight line between the outside lines.

cut out the pattern you’ve drawn.

just for good measure, fit your pattern around your lamp.
yours will overlap like mine, it’s supposed to.

pick out you fav honey bun strips.
i used 16.

cut those honey bun strips in half.

it’s audition time!!!
lay your strips out in a manor that’s pleasing to you.

fold your pattern in half.

take the middle strip from your layout audition,
spray a thin layer of quilt basting spray on it.

place that strip directly on the fold line of your pattern.
this will make a paper foundation for your strips.

lay your first strip right side down onto your foundation strip.

turn your stitch length down to about 1.5
{just trust me!!!}
and sew your first strip on.
after each strip, press with a dry iron.
it makes a difference to press after each strip, so don’t skip it.
keep adding strips until you cover the right side of the pattern.
now flip your pattern over.
go again until you cover this side of the pattern.
your covered pattern should look something like this.

trim off the stragglers using the pattern as your guide.

now here’s the fun part.
remember how i told yall to shorten your stitch length???
that was so the needle would perforate the paper for you.
just tear off the paper gently, like you would a check out of your checkbook.
you’ll be doing this in sections.

this is what the pattern will look it.
cute huh???
now this is important: spray this block with a lightweight starch.
{i prefer to use magic sizing.}
you wanna do this so that your seams lay flat.
{hint: make sure to change your needle before going back to fabric.
i use a completely separate needle for paper foundations.}
spray your lamp shade seam with your quilt basting spray.

start by placing the short side of the fabric on the lamp shade’s seam.
secure it with pins.
spray the inside of fabric generously with quilt basting spray.
slowly roll the fabric over the lamp shade, a little bit at a time, smoothing the fabric out towards the edges as you go.
i have found that it helps to pin as you go.
{just to make sure that it holds in place until your fabric dries.}
allow the end of your fabric to overlap the beginning seam at least 1/4″ in case the fabric shrinks as it dries.
feel free to spray it with extra quilt basting spray.
i wanted to secure my fabric in a cutesy way, like so.
all you have to do is thread a needle with your perle cotton thread {doubled} and stitch around the top, bottom & seam of your fabric.
when you are done with your cutesy stitching, trim the underneath fabric to about 1/4″ or so.
it doesn’t have to be exact, no one it going to see it.

when the adhesive has dried, return you lamp shade to the base, and let your light shine.

one SUPER awesome new lamp shade!!!

so the next time you pass up that ugly lamp at the flea market…envision it in your fav fabrics!!!
{mine coordinates with the quilt on our bed, and i am completely in LOVE with it.}
rachel of p.s. i quilt

Charming Handbag

one charm pack-Objects of Desire, by Sandy Gervais-or any charm pack with at least 32 squares
2/3 yard denim or chambray
two 18″ squares of quilt batting
1 1/2 yards (22″ wide) iron on interfacing, if desired. (i used a lightweight Pellon interfacing.)
magnetic snap closure (optional)
template plastic-4.5″ x 11″, with corners rounded

choose 16 charms for each side of the bag and layout in a pleasing arrangement

trim each charm square down to 4.5″ square
assemble squares into a 16 patch block using a 1/4″ seam allowance, pressing well.

layer each quilt block onto a piece of batting. it is optional to use a piece of fabric on the back of your quilt sandwich. for this bag i chose to quilt it without a backing, as it will be enclosed inside the purse. (i have constructed these bags with and without a backing and both ways work great.)

quilt as desired. i chose a simple stipple in cream thread.
repeat for other piece of patchwork.
trim off excess edges and square up each piece to 16.5″.

pin the front to the back, right sides together, and sew around 3 sides with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

the inside should look something like this.

next, we will box out the edges to give the bag some depth. to do this, open up the bag and pull the sides apart until the sides of the purse form a triangle. measure 2″ down from the point of the seam, mark a line.

pin and sew on the line.
trim off the triangles about 1/4″ from the marked line

repeat on the other side.

turn the bag right side out. it should look something like this. set aside for now.

cut 2 squares of chambray 16.5″ for the lining, and two rectangles that measure 4.5″ x 20″ for the handles. interface if desired.

at this point, add pockets (if desired) and magnetic snap (also optional) to the lining.

to construct the lining, sew the two squares of chambray together on 3 sides, leaving a 4-5″ gap in the center of the bottom of the bag to allow you to turn your bag later.
box out the corners as you did with the exterior of the bag, using the same process.
now, make your handles from the rectangles.

fold in half lengthwise and press.
open and press each side (again lengthwise) in toward the center fold line. then fold in half and press again, which will encase the raw edges inside the handles. pin well.
top stitch on either side of the straps to complete your handles.

to position handle, measure in 4.5″ from each side and pin handle in place. make sure that the strap is not twisted.
tack the handles onto the main body of the bag. this step saves the need for excessive pinning later on.

place the outside of the bag (which is right side out) inside the lining (which is inside out) and line up the edges. make sure the handles are inside of the bag at this point.

pin well around the perimeter of the bag. sew together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
turn the bag right side out (through the gap left open for turning) and finger press the seam around the top of the bag.
top stitch around the perimeter of the bag using a scant seam allowance. a walking foot is very helpful for this step.

insert the piece of template plastic through the gap that you left for turning and arrange it in the bottom of the bag. (it will be enclosed inside the purse between the lining and the outside of the bag.) this helps the bag retain it’s shape.
pin and stitch close the opening that you used for turning. readjust the position of the template plastic if necessary.
and you are done!
one cute handbag that measures 12″ wide, 14″ high and 4.5″ deep.
tutorial by amandajean of crazymomquilts

Cell Phone / Gadget Purse

I’m so excited to be featured on the Moda Bake Shop, and praying this little tutorial makes sense. I’m constantly dropping my cell phone so I wanted to make a little case to protect it. It would also work great for other little gadgets like ipods. I made the handle with a little hook so that you can easily hook it to anything you’d like, your purse, diaper bag, whatever! The finished case measures approx. 3 1/2″ x 5 1/2″.

1 Moda Neptune Layer Cake
1 10 x 10″ piece of Warm and Natural or similar batting
1 Sew on Snap, Size 4 or 1 ” Velcro
1 Lanyard hook w/swivel (found w/jewelry making supplies at most craft stores)

Pick three coordinating fabrics from the layer cake of your choice.

Fabric 1 – Outside of case, and outside of flap.
Fabric 2 – Bottom of Case, handle and binding around flap.
Fabric 3 – Lining of bag, and inside of flap. (This picture shows a blue fabric, I ended up using a green one instead.

Out of fabric #1 you will need to cut two 4 1/4″ x 4 1/4 inch squares. Out of fabric #2 you will cut one 4″ x 4 1/4 inch square. Sew them together with fabric #2 in the middle using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Unless indicated always use 1/4″ seam allowance.

At this point I quilted the piece you just finished on top of a piece of batting with some simple stippling. I also quilted the flap (fabric #2, 3 1/4″ x 3 inch square) onto some batting. This is completely optional. If you decide not to quilt it, you will need to sew the piece you just finished onto the batting by simply putting the fabric and batting together and sewing right down the center of the two seams.

Once the batting is attached to your fabric cut off any extra batting on the sides. Fold fabric in half with right sides together and pin sides together at the seams where the two coordinating fabrics meet. Sew down the sides of fabric and turn fabric right side out.


Cut a 3 1/4 x 3″ square from fabric #3. This will be the inside of the flap.

If you opted not to quilt the outside of the flap to the batting, simply pin the flap, the batting and the inside of flap (fabric #3) with the right sides showing and batting in the middle together.
Now your going to cut the binding for the flap.
Next you will cut 3 pieces out of fabric #3. Two pieces 4 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ and one piece 3 1/4″ x 1 1/2″. Refer to picture below.

Sew the binding onto the flap by first starting with the top piece. Line up the tops of fabric with right sides together and sew across top.

Iron the fabrics open and attach side pieces the exact same way. Cut off any extra fabric on the bottom.

Flap Binding

I know everyone has there own way of binding. Mine probably is not the correct way, but it works for me. So here is how I do it…….. Turn the flap around so your looking at the inside of the flap. Starting with the left side fold the piece of binding over by folding it in half length wise and then fold it over onto the inside of fabric and stitch down with needle and thread. When you come to the corner, fold down at an angle (like the picture below) fold in half and fold down onto fabric and stitch down like before.


Cut a 2 x 10″ piece from fabric #2. First iron the bottom of fabric over 1/4 “. This will create a finished edge that you will need later.

Now fold the piece of fabric in half length wise and press, unfold and then fold the outside edges into the crease in the middle that you just made and press.

Fold in half again length wise press and then sew down the edge. I used a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Cut a 2 ” piece of fabric off of the handle that you just made. Make sure it’s not from the edge that is finished. Thread it through the swivel.

Attach it to bag by putting the two ends of the fabric together then pin them to the to the left side of the bag and centered over the seam at the top.

Attach the unfinished edge of the handle to the right side of the bag, centered over the side seam with a pin.  Also, now is the time to attach the flap to the back of the bag.  Line up and center on the back of the bag with the inside of the flap pointing out and pin.


Cut two 4 1/4 x 5 3/4″ pieces out of fabric #3. Place the two fabrics right side together and sew across the bottom (4 1/4″). Now sew up the sides leaving 1 1/2″ opening on one of the sides.
Once this is done put the outside of bag inside of the lining piece that you just made. The lining piece should be turned inside out. Line up the tops of fabric, making sure that the handle pieces are inside of the bag. Line up the side seams and pin, (your pins should be going through the outside and lining of bag and the handles). Sew around the top of purse.

Pull the outside of bag through the 1 1/2″ opening that you made. It should look like the picture below. Now just tuck the lining down inside the bag.

Attach lanyard hook to handle by threading it through and sewing it two fabrics together.

Sew on your snaps with a needle and thread and your finished!!!

One very cute Cell Phone or Gadget Case. Or if your really ambitious you could actually make 14 of these things out of 1 layer cake.
Tutorial by Nicole from Our Cozy Nest

Business and Travel Accessories

Dessert Roll – Featured is Glace’ by 3 Sisters

For the Lanyard:
1 – 1″ Suspender/Mitten Clip – featured Dritz #10
1 – Large Eyelet Kit, size 1/4″ – featured Dritz #659-65
1 1/2 yards – 1/4″ ribbon
3″ – 7/8″ ribbon
Spare Parts – Alpha Sliders by the Paper Studio (I got mine from the scrap booking section in my local craft store)
Fabric glue – I like to use Helmar’s Premium Craft Glue.

For the Handle Wrap:
Scrap piece of batting (5″ x 5″)
4″ piece of velcro (hook and loop sides.)
For the Luggage Tag:
12″ – 1/4″ ribbon
Flexible Clear Plastic – I used a sheet protector and just cut it to size.

applique’s or other embellishments


Step One:
Select one strip from your dessert roll to use for your lanyard strap.

Keeping the strip folded in half cut the ends of the strip off so that your strip measures 21 1/2″ folded. When you unfold your strip, your strip should measure 43″ long.
Step Two:
Fold and iron your strip lengthwise.

Fold and iron your strip once more lengthwise.

Unfold your strip so you can see the crease in the center from the second fold.

Fold and iron both sides of the strip inward matching up with the crease in the center.

Fold and iron the strip in half one last time, concealing the raw edges inside the fold.

Step Three:

Stitch on either side of the strip as close the the edge as you can without going over.

Step Four:
Fold your strip in half matching the two short ends together. Make a crease in the center of strap. This will help find the center of the strap when attaching the eyelets.

Step Five:
With a marking pen (I used a fine tip sharpie), measure 3 1/2″ from the center on either side of the crease {center of strap} and mark with a small dot. From this dot, measure 6″ on both sides and mark another dot. From this dot, measure 6″ one last time on both sides and mark a last dot. You should now have 6 dots on your strap evenly spaced.

Step Six:
Following the directions on the Eyelet Kit, attach 6 eyelets to the marked locations on your strap.

Your strap should now look something like this…

Step Seven:
Determine which side you want facing out when wearing and starting on the back side, weave your 1/4″ ribbon in and out through your eyelets on the strap. Your ribbon should end up on the same side but on the opposite end when finished. Make sure the ribbon is pulled tight and lays flat against the strap on both sides.

Cut the ribbon to fit the strap. (Shown below is the back side. of the strap)

Step Eight:
Keeping the ribbon flat against the strap, stitch the ribbon down to the strap on either end to hold in place.

Step Nine:
At this point I like to wrap the strap around the back side of my neck and then cross the ends in front of me to make sure everything is lined up properly. The strap ends will cross one another with both right sides facing up so when wearing your lanyard it lays nice and flat against you and won’t twist around.

Your eyelets should line up with each other towards the ends of the straps. Stack your strap one end on top of the other with both sides facing up matching the two end eyelets together. Don’t worry if the ends of your straps are slightly off. As long as your eyelet match up then your lanyard won’t look lopsided.

Step Ten:
Stitch your two ends together about a 1/2″ up from the end.

Step Eleven:
With the back sides of your strap facing up, weave the sewn ends through the Suspender Clip towards the back side of the clip.

Stitch the ends down in two places. I like to stitch over my original stitch for the one closest to the clip and then stitch again towards the end of the straps for extra reinforcement. Please sew slowly as your are sewing through several layers of fabric at this point.

Step Twelve:
Apply the letter you wish to have on your lanyard to one of the metal sliders with the ribbon holes facing east and west so that when you tie on your letter with your ribbon your letter will be facing in the right direction.

Step Thirteen:
Using your 7/8″ ribbon, wrap and glue your ribbon around the base of the lanyard covering any stitching you may have made to attach the clip to your strap. I folded over end of the ribbon to conceal any raw edges. The seam of the ribbon should be at the back side fo your strap.

Using the leftover 1/4″ ribbon weave the ribbon through your Alpha Slider so that it is in the center of your ribbon. Holding the slider in place on the front side of the strap, wrap the ends of the ribbon around the strap a few times ending up at the top of the Alpha Slider. Tie a tight knot in the ribbon securing the Alpha Slider and ribbon in place. Trim off the ends of the ribbon as desired.

Clip your strap to your ID Badge and you are now styling a new look with your lanyard. Make one for your friends and one in all colors to coordinate with your wardrobe!


Step One:

From another piece of Dessert roll, cut 2 – 5″ pieces so that you have two 5″ squares. Charm Packs would also work great for these. Use two coordinating fabrics to have a reversible handle wrap. I added an an applique’ letter A to one side of the handle wrap to personalize my wrap.

You will want to do any applique stitching or other embellishments now before attaching the two pieces of fabric together.

Step Two:
Layer your pieces in the following order from top to bottom….
5″ square of fabric Right side facing down
5″ square of fabric Right side facing up
5″ square of batting.

With all layers sandwiched together, stitch a 1/4″ around all sides leaving a 3″ opening to turn.

Clip corners before turning.

Step Three:
Turn handle wrap Right sides out and iron flat. Stitch a 1/8″ seam around all four sides closing the opening at the same time.

Step Four:
Cut a piece from both the hook and the loop tape to 4″ long.

Stitch the hook and loop tape to top of one side of the wrap and the bottom of the back side of the wrap.

You now have a very stylish handle wrap and your bags will no longer be mistaken for someone elses at the airport.


Step One:
From the same strip of fabric used for your handle wrap, cut 2 pieces of fabric at 5″ x 3″.
Again, I used an applique on one side of my luggage tag out of a coordinating fabric.

Step Two:

With right Sides together, sew a 1/4″ seam around the tag leaving a 1 1/2″ – 2″ opening at the TOP of the luggage tag. Clip corners and turn. Iron flat.

Step Three:

Cut a piece of 1/4″ ribbon – 12″ long and fold in half.

Place the folded end of the ribbon in the top opening of the luggage tag about a 1/2″ inside with the ends of the ribbon sticking outside of the opening. Stitch across the top of the luggage tag backstitching a couple times over the ribbon to secure in place.

Step Four:
From the Sheet Protector or other thin clear plastic, cut 4″ down from the fold of the sheet protector and across 2 1/2″ {you will ultimately have two layers joined together by the fold.}
The fold of the sheet protector will become the opening end for your ID information for the luggage tag.

Place the cut piece of plastic on the back side {blank side} of the luggage tag. If your plastic hangs over the edges, then trim down to fit the luggage tag. Stitch around the three sides that meet up with the fabric with about 1/8″ seam.

You now have a coordinating luggage tag to insert your ID information or business card incase your luggage gets lost.

You are now set apart from the rest of the world with your very own customized travel accessories. Make some for everyone you know or multiple colors for you! You can get several accessories out of one Dessert Roll.


Angela Yosten