Twisted Charm Quilt



I love a good plan. I don’t always follow my plans, but I love to have them. They give me a way to focus my energy on the step at hand. Otherwise, I’d be like a squirrel chasing leaves instead of gathering nuts.

My plan for this quilt was this…1 charm pack of 42 beautiful prints and solids each deserving of their own special place….Set in a grid of 6 x 7 squares with a 1″ sashing and two borders.



For an added bit of interest, I gave them a little twist. Every other block is twisted twice. Thus, the center of the quilt requires 2 sets of blocks…21 of each. These blocks finish at 6″ square, or 6 ½” before they are sewn into the top.

I also put tiny twisted blocks in the corners of the outer border. This is the third kind of block you will need to make. You make 4 of these. To make these blocks you need to hold onto your scraps. DO NOT CHUCK THEM when you trim the charms for the double twist blocks.

1 charm pack (42, 5″ squares)
1 ½ yds black solid
1 3/4 yds white solid
½ yd inner border
½ yd binding (cut 2.5″ with wof)
3 yds backing



  1. Open the charm pack and put every other patch of fabric in a different pile. Go through the whole pack until you have 2 piles of 21 patches. This will put approximately half of each color way in each pile.
  2. Cutting Directions:
    1. Block A – Single Twist
      1. From black
        1. cut 3 5″ width of fabric (wof) strips
        2. cut each wof strip into 14 3″ pieces
        3. you should have 42, 3″x5″ rectangles
        4. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 84 triangles.
        5. If you are using a patterned fabric for the background DO NOT LAYER YOUR RECTANGLES WITH LIKE SIDES TOGETHER WHEN YOU CUT THEM.  This will result in half of the triangles leaning the wrong direction. The resulting blocks will look like the icons on your i-phone when you start to move one.  Check out my sample blocks…The difference is subtle.  Look at the long and short edges of the triangles and how they relate to the center.  These blocks are NOT the same.  If put together in a quilt I believe they would seem to be jumping and turning all over the place. If both sides of your fabric are the same (like in a Bella solid) this isn’t an issue.
      2. From charm pack
        1. 21 5″x5″ patches
    2. Block B – Double Twist
      1. From white
        1. cut 3, 5″ wof strips
        2. cut each wof strip into 14 3″ pieces
        3. you should have 42, 3″x5″ rectangles
        4. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 84 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
      2. From black
        1. cut 3, 4″ wof strips
        2. cut 2 wof strips into 17, 2 3/8″ x 4″ rectangles
        3. cut 8 more 2 3/8″ x 4″ rectangles from third strip. SAVE rest of strip.
        4. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 84 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
      3. From charm squares
        1. trim 21 charms to 3 3/4″ squares
        2. SAVE TRIMMINGS
    3. Block C – Tiny Double Twists
      1. From black
        1. USE scrap from cutting of Block B (It should be around 23″ x 4″)
        2. cut 8, 2 1/4″ x 4″ rectangles
        3. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 16 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
      2. From white
        1. cut 1, 1 3/4″ x wof strip
        2. cut 8, 3″ x 1 3/4″ rectangles from strip
        3. sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 16 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
      3. From charm trimmings saved when cutting Block B.
        1. You should have a pile of scraps measuring 1 1/2″ x 5″ and just as many measuring 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″  (You have way more than are in my picture….38 more pieces actually.)
        2. Select 13 pieces and sew them together along their longest edge.  Like the picture below, only way bigger.
        3. Iron seams open
        4. Trim this pieced scrap to 13 ½” x 2 3/4″
        5. cut 4, 2 3/4″ squares
        6. This works well for A Stitch in Color. If you are using a different fabric line it might not. In that case cut these 2 3/4″ squares from your inner border fabric.
    4. Sashing
      1. From black
        1. cut 3, 6 ½” x wof strips
        2. cut 41, 1 ½” x 6 ½” rectangles (28 from one wof strip and 13 from a second.)
        3. SAVE rest of second strip with the third strip.
      2. From white
        1. Cut 2, 1 ½” x wof strips
        2. Sew white strips to black strips in step 4.1.3. along long edge.
        3. Iron seams toward the black
        4. Cut 30, 1 ½” x 7 ½” rectangles from pieced strips. These will look like black match sticks with white heads.
        5. SAVE the rest of the black and black/white bits for use in the inner border corner stones.
    5. Inner Border
      1. From bits saved in step 4.2.5.
        1. cut 4, 1 ½” squares
      2. From inner border fabric
        1. cut 5, 1 ½” x wof strips
    6. Outer Border
      1. From white
        1. cut 5, 4 ½” x wof strips
    7. Binding
      1. Cut 6, 2 ½” wof strips

Time for a break. If you have completed all of this cutting and prepping, the rest of the quilt should go together easily. (I made mine at a retreat, in about 6 hours of dedicated sewing. )

    Piecing Directions:

      • Block A – Single Twist
      • The goal is to make 21 blocks like this one.  They will each have a different center.

      • Align a black triangle with the stubby angle 1/4″ over the edge of  a 5″ charm and the pointy angle 1/2″ over the parallel edge.
      • Sew 1/4″ seam along the long black edge.  If you are careful not to stretch the fabric, you don’t have to pin.
      • I’ve noticed that when using a machine with a 1/4″ foot, I can align my needle at the intersection of the two pieces and edge of the fabric right next to the flange of the foot and everything comes out where it should.  The seam will start and stop at where the edges of the fabric intersect.
      • Iron the seam toward the black.
      • Repeat on next side, 3 times until all four sides are added.
      • Trim to 6 1/2″ square.  Really.  Do this.  I sized the pieces so that they would be big – to make the piecing easier.  If you don’t trim them it won’t work right.
      • If you have a 6 1/2″ trimming square center the center so that as close to 1/4″ of black is between the points and the edge.
      • It is fine if it isn’t perfect.  Even if you sew a corner into the seam allowance when you piece the blocks together it will still look square.  The blocks are set in black – your eyes will fill in any corners that are missing.
      • Make 21.
    • Block B – Double Twist
      • The goal, again, is 21 blocks.
      • These will each have a different center and two twists.
      • Add the black triangle to the trimmed charm in the same manner that you added them to the whole charm for Block A.
      • Trim blocks to 5″ squares.
      • Add the white triangles just like you did the black ones in Block A.
      • Iron towards the white.
      • Trim to 6 1/2″ squares.
      • Make 21.
    • Block C – Tiny Double Twists
      • This block is  the corner stone for the outer most border.
      • Yeah, you make these just like you made blocks A and B…only the pieces are smaller and you start with the white triangles next to the center block.
      • After adding the first twist (white) trim the block to 3 1/2″ square.
      • After adding the second twist (black) trim the block to 4 1/2″ square.
      • Make 4.
    • Center
        • Arrange blocks in a  grid 6 blocks by 7 blocks alternating every other block.
        • NOTE: to my OCD friends this quilt does not come out even.  If you are really OCD you have already noticed this, and probably chosen not to make it…or you have altered the pattern.  If you aren’t then you are doing it right if only the corner blocks on one  side  match.
        • Step away from your arrangement and see if you still like it.  If you can’t get very far from it try taking a quick photograph of it with your cell phone.  Look at the picture to see if the distribution of colors pleases you.
        • If you have a design wall this is a good time to use it.  If you don’t there are other options.  You can put them on the floor or lay them on a bed.  You can close the drapes and pin your blocks to them.  Or use the shower curtain. Use your imagination.
        • You can also just wing it.  Random is good – but I haven’t met many people who are actually happy with random.
      • Vertical Sashing
        • Once you are happy with the layout sew a black “stick” to the right side of the first 5 blocks in each row.
        • Sew the rows together:
        • (block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)block
        • Iron seams toward the black sashing.
      • Next make the horizontal sashing.
        • You need to make 6 rows of horizontal sashing.
        • Sew 6 matchsticks together along the skinny side with the white block pointing toward the right.
        • Sew one plane stick on the end of the last match head.
        • Iron seams toward the black sticks.
        • Place one matchstick row between each row of blocks.
      • Attach horizontal sashing.
        • Snuggle sashing seams and pin in place
        • Iron seams toward horizontal sashing.
    • Borders
      • Inner border
        • Measure your quilt’s length and width.  Write it down.
        • It should be something like 41 1/2″ x 48 1/2″, give or take.
        • Sew one 1 1/2″ border strip to each of the skinny ends.
        • Iron seams toward the border.
        • Trim excess.
        • Sew the remaining three skinny strips together, end for end.
        • Cut two strips from this that are the length of your quilt as it was when you wrote it down.  (It should be 2″ shorter than the top is now.)
        • Sew a 1 1/2″ black square to the ends of each of these strips.  Iron seams toward the border strips.
        • Snuggle corner seams together.  Pin in place.
        • Pin remaining length of borders in place.
        • Sew on long borders.
        • Iron seams toward border fabric.
      • Outer border
        • Measure your quilt’s length and width. Write it down.
        • It should be something like 43 1/2″ x 50 1/2″, give or take.
        • Sew 4 1/2″ border strips together end for end….making one very long and skinny strip.
        • Cut 4 lengths from this strip that are equal to the measurements you just wrote down. (2 that are the length of the top and 2 that equal the width.)
        • Sew short edges of the border on first.
        • Iron seams toward the border.
        • Sew a tiny double twist square to each end of each of the long strips. Iron seams toward the border strips.
        • Snuggle corner seams together. Pin in place.
        • Pin remaining length of borders in place.
        • Sew on long borders.
        • Iron seams toward border fabric.
    • Layer and Quilt as desired.
    1 crib or throw sized quilt, finished size: 51 x 58


    Cindy Sharp

    Banner Day Skirt



    Ellen Luckett Baker is author of The Long Thread, where she writes about her adventures with sewing, crafting, and kids. Her book 1, 2, 3 Sew was recently published by Chronicle Books and her debut fabric collection for Moda, Quilt Blocks, will be available by the end of this month. Ellen lives in Atlanta with her husband, two daughters, and a growing number of pets.

    This skirt features my new Quilt Blocks collection with festive bunting triangles to celebrate the warmer weather! With a simple elastic waist and quick patchwork hem with a lined band, this skirt comes together in a snap. This skirt fits a size 6, but is easily adjustable by adding or subtracting an inch or two of length. I have two daughters, ages seven and nine, who wear simple handmade skirts like this almost every day. As I was making this skirt, I realized how easily this pattern could be adjusted to make a pillowcase, or curtains for a child’s room. Or this design made into a quilt with rows of banners would be perfect for a new baby.


    Note: For a proper fit, be sure to measure your child’s waist to determine the length of the elastic.



    Charm Pack or eleven 5″ squares of Quilt Blocks fabric
    1/2 yard Flying Geese in Spectrum color way
    1/2 yard white cotton
    One yard 1″ elastic
    Matching thread

    Seam Allowance: 1/4″


    Step 1: CUT FABRIC.
    Cut triangles according to the template {included in the Printer Friendly Version at the bottom of this post}. 

    You will need 11 patterned triangles and 12 solid white triangles. Cut the white fabric for the back of the hem to 39 1/2″ x 4 1/4″. Cut the Flying Geese fabric to 39 1/2″ x 15″. 

    Step 2: MAKE PATCHWORK FRONT OF HEM BAND.
    With one patterned triangle and one white triangle right sides facing, sew them together on one of the long sides, as shown in the image. 

    Continue sewing triangles together, alternating patterned and white fabric to create the bunting flag design. Press all seams towards the darker fabric.

    Step 3: LINE AND FINISH THE HEM BAND.
    Once you have sewn all of the triangles together and pressed the joined fabric strip, you will sew the end triangles to one another, forming the band. Then, sew the white fabric right sides together along the short ends to form the lining band (with a 1/4″ seam allowance). You will now have two hem band pieces as shown in the photo. 

    Place the white fabric band inside the patterned triangle band with right sides facing. Pin together and sew together along the side with the tips of the patterned triangles. This will form the bottom hem. Press the seam open, then press the joined piece flat with the white fabric backing the patterned band. 

    Step 4: SEW THE BAND TO THE SKIRT PIECE.
    Next, take the larger skirt piece and sew the short ends with right sides facing, forming the side hem of the skirt (still using a 1/4″ seam allowance). Follow with an overcasting or zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying. Place the triangle band piece inside the skirt tube, with right sides facing and raw edges aligned. Sew together, then use an overcasting or zig-zag stitch. Press the hem flat and topstitch just 1/8″ above the seam as shown in the photo.

    Step 6: CREATE THE WAISTBAND.
    Working on the wrong side of the fabric, fold the unfinished top edge of the skirt down by 1/2″ and press. Fold again by 1 1/2″ and stitch in place, 1 1/4″ from the top, forming the elastic casing. Be sure to leave an opening of 2″ – 3″, as shown in the photo, to insert the elastic.


    Place a safety pin at the end of the elastic and insert the elastic into the casing. Feed it through and pull it out the other side. Lay the elastic over itself and sew it together with a zig-zag stitch. Push it into the elastic casing and close the opening in the casing with a straight stitch.



    One Banner Day Skirt!
    Happy Sewing! 

    Ellen Luckett Baker
    www.thelongthread.com

    Look! My new book 1,2,3 Sew from Chronicle Books is available now. 



    SLICED Tutorial: Sleepy Fish Toy


    I made my fish with leftover layer cake pieces but it is a great project for any scraps .The scales in the pattern only require about an inch square so don’t throw away anything! What’s more, because this is for little people, the more variety of scraps you can incorporate, the more interesting it will be.


    Fabric leftovers
    Toy stuffing
    Rattle ball
    Cellophane
    Needle and thread
    Fabric pen
    Turning tool
    Assorted ribbon 



    Step 1 – Cut out your templates
    • The two sets of templates in this project are to be used in different ways. The fin, eye and scale templates are given without a seam allowance and will provide you with a line to stitch on.
    • The body templates are given with an added seam allowance and will provide you with a line on which to cut. 




    Step 2 – Make the fins, eyes and scales .
    •         Lets start with the tail fin. Select a scrap that fits the template with an extra ¼” around the outside.
    •          Draw around the template directly on the wrong side of the fabric and mark the turning gap.
    •      –  Layer this on top of a second scrap with right sides together.
    •      Lastly add a third layer of cellophane on the bottom.

    • Sew together following the line, starting and stopping at the turning gap. Backstitch a few stitches either side of the gap to hold the seam securely when you are turning.
    • Cut the fin out ¼” from the stitch line.
    • Clip the curves all the way around the outside to remove the bulk.


    • Turn the fin right sides out through the turning gap. Don’t be afraid of creasing the cellophane! Just pretend it’s not there!
    • Use a blunt pointed tool like a knitting needle or a wooden BBQ skewer to help you push into the corners.
    • Press the finished fin flat.
    • *** Do not have your iron on the highest setting for this and do not hold the iron on the pieces for more than about 2 seconds.  Otherwise you might distort the cellophane. ***


    • Repeat this process to make the top and bottom fins, 2 eyes and 14 scales. You will not need to mark the turning gap on the other pieces as they all have an obvious open edge. 




    Step 3 – cut out the body pieces
    • Use the templates to cut your body pieces from your fabric left overs. You get to be creative here. You may want to choose a wide variety of prints and colours or decided to keep it more uniformed in colour. I picked a variety for the front and selected greens and blues for the back.
    • To make the front of the fish, cut pieces by drawing round the templates onto the right side of the fabric. Cut one tailpiece, one strip 1, one strip 2, one strip 3, one top of headpiece and one bottom of headpiece.
    • To make the back of the fish cut pieces by drawing round the template onto the wrong side of the fabric. Cut one top of headpiece, one bottom of headpiece and one back body piece.

    Step 4 – sew the parts together
    • Take the tailpiece and place it right side up on a flat surface.
    • Arrange 3 fins along the left edge. As the scales are double sided, have a look at both sides and decide which you like best and arrange you colours as you go. Allow enough space either side so the scales are at least ¼” away from the edge at all points. This will mean that you will not sew through a scale when you are sewing the 2 sides of the body together later.
    • Cut 2 lengths of ribbon 2 ½.”
    • Fold them in half and place between the scales.
    • Clip these in place. You can use pins if you prefer but I find clips a lot easier.  


    • Sew these pieces in place with an approximate 1/8” seam to secure.
    • Place strip 1 on top right sides together and clip in place.
    • Sew together using ¼” seam.
    • Fold strip 1 back and press in place.


    • Continue to add strips and fins in this way.
    • After strip 1 has been pressed add 4 scales.


    • After strip 2 has been pressed add 3 scales and 2 pieces of ribbon or ric rac either side.
    • When adding the strips, secure on one side first. As the edges are slightly curved it will be at an angle so manipulate the edges in to place as you go. 
    • After strip 3 has been pressed add 4 scales.

    • Take one of the eyes and place it on the top edge of the bottom of headpiece, just slightly left of the centre.
    • Secure with 1/8″ seam. 

    • Place the top of headpiece on top and sew together using ¼” seam.
    • Fold back and press the seam so the eye faces down.

    •        Clip the head to the body and sew together using ¼” seam.

    • Fold back and press in place. 

    •  Sew the back body pieces together in the same way.
    Step 5 – add the fins
    • Place the fins, in their correct places, on the right side of the back of the fish.
    • Place with the fins pointing inwards and line up the raw edges.
    • Place the top fin at the top in the centre.  Add the bottom fin to the bottom in the centre and add the tail fin in the middle of the tail. 
    • Secure with 1/8” seams.

    Step 6 – add the ribbon tags
    •        Cut six 2 ½” lengths of ribbon.
    •        Fold them in half and press.
    •        Add the ribbons to the front side of the fish on the tailpiece. Place 3 at the top and 3 at the bottom.
    •        Secure with 1/8” seam.


    Step 7 – add the hanging loop
    • Cut a strip of fabric 20” x 1 ½” or if you are using a layer cake cut two 1 ½” strips from one square and          sew them together.
    • Fold the edges ¼” into the middle along the length.

    •       Fold the whole strip in half so the folds meet and secure with a line of stitching close to the edge.

    •           Cut a piece of velcro ¼” x 1 ½”. 

    •           At one end of the prepared hanging loop strip, fold the raw edge over ¼”. 

    •          Place one side of the Velcro on top and sew around the outside to secure in place.

    •             At the other end of the hanging loop strip, add the other half of the Velcro 1” from the edge. This will be the end that is sewn to the fish.


    •  Take the back of the fish and add the hanging loop in the middle of the top fin. Secure with 1/8” seam.

    Step 8 – complete the fish

    • Take the back of the fish and place it right side up on a flat surface.
    • Fold all the pieces into the middle and pin them to hold them out of the way when sewing the two sides of the fish together.

    •        Place the front of the fish on top right sides together and clip in place.
    •        Leave a turning gap in the headpiece.

    •         Sew around the outside with a ¼” seam starting and stopping at the turning gap.
    •           Backstitch a few stitches either side of the gap to strengthen when turning.
    •         Turn the fish right sides out being careful of the pins as you do so.
    •        Ensure none of the scales have been caught in the stitching and all the parts are sitting neatly.
    •         Press well.
    •         Stuff the fish with toy stuffing.
    •        Add the rattle half way through so it is in the middle of the fish’s body. 
    • Close the gap with a slipstitch.
    • Now give your fish a name and a new little owner…

    One lovely sleepy fishy toy.


          Be sure to drop by my blog for more information about my experience with the Sliced Competition and a behind the scene look!

          Beth Studley
          {lovefrombeth.com}

    SLICED Tutorial: Quilt Story Apron





    Hello!! I’m back sharing another tutorial from a project I made for the Moda Sliced Competition!  You can also check out my Pea Pod Pincushion tutorial from the competition.  I hope you enjoy making this sweet apron.  Make sure to come and say hi at Quilt Story too! 🙂



    2-3 fat quarters for bodice and pockets
    Six 1/4 yard cuts for skirt and ruffles
    1/4 for scallops
    1/4 yard for neck straps
    Fat quarter for center waistband
    1/3 yard for waistband ties

    Pattern Pieces {included in the Printer Friendly Version}:
    Main Bodice
    Side Bodice
    Top Band
    Scallop & Pocket


    Four 1 yard cuts of ric rac, lace, pom poms, etc.
    1 yard medium weight interfacing for bodice and pockets
    Tape measure for flower pin
    1 yard thin ribbon


    *** Use half inch seams for construction of this apron unless otherwise noted.
    ***The bodice for this pattern is a women’s size 5.

    Part 1: Bodice Construction


    Use a medium-weight interfacing and sew bodice sides to main bodice piece, then add the top band. Main bodice pattern, side bodice pattern, and top band pattern are included in the Printer Friendly Version.  Repeat and create an identical lining piece, no interfacing needed.

    Add iPod pocket to inside of lining.  Cut two pieces, 5″ x 6″ and interface one piece.  Sew right sides together along each side and top, leave the bottom open.  Turn right side out and press.  When pressing, turn in the edges of the unfinished bottom by 1/4″ and press.  Add a trim along the finished top if you’d like.  Pin the pocket in place and sew around sides and bottom.  Reinforce the tops of each side.
    Next, top stitch a ribbon across the seam of top band and bodice. Create a bow and tack into the middle of  ribbon bodice.
    Create neck straps by cutting 2 strips of fabric, 4″ x 38″. Fold in half lengthwise and sew down entire strip with an angle at the end. Turn right side out and press.
    Next is the bodice ruffle trim. Fold in  half lengthwise RST (right sides together) a piece of fabric measuring 2.5″ x 20″. Sew short edges together. Turn right side out and press. Run a narrow gathering stitch along raw edge. Gather to a ruffle to match the top of the bodice. Add the ruffle with a narrow top stitch to front apron bodice piece, along the top band piece. *Minding the half inch edges on each side of bodice. 
    Put bodice and lining RST and pin neck straps in between and to the sides of bodice.  However you will leave a little more than a half inch on edges so they don’t get sewn into the seam.  Stitch together sides and top, turn inside out and press. 
    Bodice complete.
    Part 2: Skirt Construction
    Cut 5 strips for the skirt.  From top to bottom my measurements are 5.5″, 6″, 4.5″, 5.5″ and 3.5″ inches long, all by 25″ inches wide.  Sew together in that order.
    Using the trims, and coordinating threads, sew trims cross all the seams (as pictured).  Serge or turn side edges in 1/4″ and 1/4″ again and stitch to finish sides of apron. 
    Make a wide gathering stitch across top of apron as shown.
    Create your bottom ruffle by cutting a piece of fabric 2″ x 40″, turn bottom edge 1/4″ in, and 1/4″ in again press and stitch. Do this to the two sides as well.  Make a wide gathering stitch 1/4″ from raw edge. Gather evenly to match apron width. Set aside.
    Cut scallop fabric in half widthwise, to have two pieces 4.5″ x WOF.  Using the scallop pattern {in the Printer Friendly Version}, trace onto the wrong side of your fabric and create four full scallops.  Take the wrong sides of the scallop fabrics and pin together.  Sew along tracing and trim 1/4″ around.  Turn right side out and press.
    Take your ruffle and scallop and with RST pin to the apron along the bottom edge. Serge or stitch 1/4″. Open and press. Do a very narrow top stitch on the bottom apron edge.
    Create your pocket using pattern piece {found in the Printer Friendly Version}. Embellish as you would like with trim, different fabrics, embroidery etc. Using same pattern piece create a lining piece out of white or coordinating fabric.  Interface one side of the pocket.  Using 1/4″ seams, stitch around the sides and rounded bottom of pocket, leaving the top open. Turn right side out and press. Turn top edges in about a 1/4″, press really nicely and top stitch closed.  Pin pocket in place on apron and use a narrow top stitch to stitch in place. Be sure to reinforce each side at the top.
    Gather top of skirt to match finished apron top. With RST pin and sew or serge together.
    Part 3: Finishing
    Using the fat quarter piece for the center waistband cut a piece 7″ x 13″.  RST sew together lengthwise.  Press with the seam in the center.  Also press the short ends 1/4″ in for a finished look, but do not stitch yet.  Set aside.  Cut two waistband ties 6″ x 34″.  RST sew together lengthwise and on one end of each finish at an angle.  Turn right side out and press. 
    Place the waistband ties into the unfinished edges of the center waistband piece.  Center the waistband piece over top of the bodice and skirt seam.  Pin in place and sew a narrow top stitch around the entire center waistband, closing the sides as you go. 
    Part 4: Tape Measure Flower Pin, optional
    Clip metal ends of measuring tape off. Using hot glue, create a circle center roughly the size of a finger. Create petals by softly folding measuring tape and gluing to center. Alternate sides of flower while rolling and rotating softly.  Start with smaller folds and get larger as you get to the end of the flower.  Try first without glue to get a feel for the process.
    Once you’ve finished the tape measure flower you can add some fabric petals or leaves.  Fold a 2″ piece of fabric in half and in half again. Trim raw edge sides into a curve. Add hot glue and place little fabric petals within the measuring tape flower.  Create larger petals using the same method and 3″ pieces of fabric. Put 3-4 of these at the base of the measuring tape flower.  Hot glue a pin clasp thing (that’s what they are called right) 🙂  to the back of the flower, and pin where you would like.

    One darling apron!

    Thank you so much for all of you who left comments during the competition, it was so much fun and we had a blast!  Thanks to Moda too!! 🙂  I’ll be posting a tutorial for my portable file folders soon!
    Be sure to visit our blog, Quilt Story.  We’d love to have you!
    Quilt Story

    A Touch of Red Quilt


    Hi..it’s Jo from Jo’s Country Junction. I’m here with my latest Moda Bake Shop project “A Touch of Red”. The quilt is a giant and finishes at 98″ x 98″ but it only uses two jelly rolls of Sweetwater’s Reunion fabric line. One of the fabrics features newsprint. As I was sewing along I discovered my Iowa town, population of 257, was listed on the fabric. It was a fun coincidence! After you are done reading this tutorial, head on over to my blog for your chance to win two Reunion Jelly Rolls that Kim from The Fat Quarter Shop is giving away.



    2 Reunion Jelly Rolls
    2.5 yards
    Ink 5477 18 Setting Triangles, Corners and Outer Border
    3.25 yards Cherry 5476 22* Blocks, Inner Border and Binding
    9 yards Cherry 5478 12 Backing


    This quilt features 112 8″ finished blocks set on point.

    Each block uses 27″ of jelly roll strip. Three blocks can be made with two matching jelly roll strips. To cut the blocks you will need to unroll both jelly rolls. Match the like fabric together. Set the fabric that is the same as the red squares aside.

    From each set cut:
    6~ 2 1/2″ cuts, 6~ 4 1/2″ cuts, 6~ 6 1/2″ cuts

    From the red fabric:
    Cut 30 2 1/2″ strips. Sub cut into 448~ 2 1/2″ squares.

    Inner border:
    Cut 9~1 1/2″ strips


    Binding:
    Cut 10~ 2 1/2″ strips

    Setting Triangles and Outer border:
    Cut 3~ 13 1/2″ strips. Sub cut into 8~ 13 1/2″ squares. Cut SIX twice on the diagonals to create 24 setting triangles. Cut the remaining TWO once on the diagonal to create the corner triangles. Cut 10~ 3 1/2″ strips for the outer border.

    Let’s start sewing! To make a block you need:

    2~ 2 1/2″, 2~ 4 1/2″, 2~ 6 1/2″ pieces from the jelly roll strips and 4~red 2 1/2″ squares.

    Sew the 2 1/2″ squares together as shown. Press to the red.


    Sew the pieces together to create a four patch. Press.


    Sew the 4 1/2″ pieces to each side as shown. Press away from the red


    If the 4 1/2″ pieces do not line up with the four patch, you are sewing with an incorrect seam allowance. Take the time to correct it now. If everything matches up continue on with your block.


    Sew the remaining 2 1/2″ red squares to the 6 1/2″ pieces. Press away from the red.



    Sew the newly created pieces to the block. Note the position of the red pieces.



    Create 111 more blocks.



    Lay the blocks out in an on point (diagonal) setting. Sew together in diagonal strips. Then sew the strips together.



    Trim the edges if necessary. Sew the inner border strips together, pressing seams open. Add to the quilt.



    Sew the outer border strips together, press seams open and add them to the quilt.


    Piece the quilt backing together. Press. Layer the backing, batting and quilt top. Quilt as desired. Trim. Sew the binding strips together. Bind.





    98″ x 98″ quilt

    As I was sewing my quilt, I discover one of the fabric prints had newsprint as the design. I picked up and fabric and started reading it only to discover my little town of 257 people was listed on the fabric! It makes the quilt even more special to me. Read more about the discovery and the great giveaway from the Fat Quarter Shop over on my blog, Jo’s Country Junction.




    Jo Kramer
    {Jo’s Country Junction}