Casserole Carrier

Know anyone having a baby? Got a potluck dinner to go to? Just like carrying casserole dishes around on a regular basis? If so, this project is for you!

1 Prayer Flag charm pack
1 1/4 yd White Bleached Bella Solid
2 packages of crib sized batting
2 packages of 1/2″ double fold bias tape OR 1/2 yd fabric for binding
2 round 6″ purse handles
14 #20 snap caps
7 #20 snap studs
7 #20 snap sockets
Snap setter / snap press

1. Cut 10 charm squares in half to create (20) 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles. We’ll call these “R.”
2. Select 20 more charm squares. We’ll call these “S.”
3. Create 4 strips by sewing the following pattern: S, R, S, R, S, R, S, R, S, R.

4. Cut (6) 2 1/2″ x 33″ strips of White Bleached Bella Solid. Sew white strips to pieced charm square strips like photo below to create two main panels.

5. Cut (4) 8″ x 24″ rectangles of White Bleached Bella Solid. Sew two 8″ x 24″ rectangles to each main panel, making sure to center them. (Refer to photo for placement).

6. Sew two charm squares to each main panel, making sure to center them. (Refer to photo for placement).

7. Cut 2 layers of batting the same size as your panels.

8. Layer, baste, quilt, and bind entire perimeter.

9. Slide a purse handle over each short end of the panel toward the right (outer) side. Fold edge down. Pin and stitch in place.

10. Apply two snap studs to the right side of one panel flap as shown.

11. Apply two snap studs to the wrong side of the other panel flap.

12. Fold over your panel flap like the photo below to determine where to apply two snap sockets. Repeat with the other panel.

13. When the studs and sockets are applied, the panels will snap together to hold your casserole dish snugly in place.

14. Apply three snaps on the top edge under each purse handle (sockets on one side, studs on the other) to improve the structural integrity of the casserole carrier.

… a fun way to carry a casserole dish to a pot luck dinner!

Be sure to stop by my blog for lots of other fun ideas!

Thanks for looking,
Jenny Garland

Ruffled Note Card

Ruffled Note Card by Stefanie Roman 
Hello! I am Stefanie from Little Lady Patchwork. I am so pleased to be sharing my first Moda Bake Shop project with you.
I love to make and receive handmade note cards. My Ruffled Note Card is quick and easy. All crafters, not just quilters can make it.
It is the perfect way to personalize a gift. If you were giving a quilt as a gift, my Ruffled Note Card would make a great matching accessory. You could even make several of them and give them away as gifts.
Have fun making your Ruffled Note Cards!

Leftover Jelly Roll strips (I used leftover jelly roll strips from Swanky by Chez Moi)
8 1/2″ X 11″ white card stock
Glue Stick
Ribbon or Ric Rac for embellishment
4 1/2″ X 5 3/4″ Envelope
Bone Folder or Dull Butter Knife

Cutting Instructions:

Cut the white card stock in half so that it measures 8 1/2″ X 5 1/2″.
Fold the card stock in half so that it measures 4 1/4″ X 5 1/2″.

Here are a few tips for making a crisp, clean fold in your card stock:
  • Measure 4 1/4″ away from the left side of your card stock.
  • Using your pencil, make a small dot at the 4 1/4″ mark. This will become your 1st registration mark. 
    • Move your ruler closer to the top of your card stock.
    • Measure 4 1/4″ away from the left side of the card stock.
    • Using your pencil, make a small dot at the 4 1/4″ mark. This will become your 2nd registration mark.


    • Use your ruler to line up the two registration marks. 
    • Use your bone folder to score a fold along the side of your ruler. If you do not have a bone folder, you can use a dull butter knife.
    • You may need to run the bone folder along the edge of the ruler several times in order to get a good fold line.

      •  Fold your card stock in half using the fold line that you created. Your card should measure 4 1/4″ X 5 1/2″.
      Choose (5) coordinating jelly roll strips. I chose 5 jelly roll strips from Swanky by Chez Moi, however you can use any jelly roll strips you might have in your stash.
      Cut (1)  2 1/2″ X 6 1/2″ strip from each of the coordinating jelly roll strips.
      You will need a total of (5)  2 1/2″ X 6 1/2″ coordinating jelly roll strips.

      Step 1:
      • Fold the 2 1/2″ X 6 1/2″ strip in half.
      • Press the strip with your iron.
      • Repeat for each of the (5)  2 1/2″ X 6 1/2″ strips.
      Step 2:
      • Align the first jelly roll strip with the bottom of the white card stock. The jelly roll strip will overlap the edges of the white card stock.
      • Lift up one end of the jelly roll strip and place a dab of glue on the center of the white card stock. This will help hold the jelly roll strip in place while you sew it down.

      Step 3:
      • Sew 1/4 ” away from the raw edge of the first jelly roll strip.
      Step 4:
      • Lay the 2nd jelly roll strip on top of the first jelly roll strip. Use your stitch line as a guide for keeping the second jelly roll strip straight.
      • Lift up one end of the jelly roll strip and place a dab of glue on the center of the white card stock.

       Step 5:
      • Sew a 1/4″ away from the raw edge of the second jelly roll strip.
      • Your Ruffled Card should look like this:

        Step 6:

        • Repeat Step 5 for the 3rd and 4th jelly roll strips.

        Step 7:

        • Align the last jelly roll strip with the fold line on the white card stock.
        • Lift up one edge of the jelly roll strip and place a dab of glue on the center of the white card stock.
        • Place your scrap piece of ribbon on top of the last jelly roll strip.
        • Lift up one edge of the ribbon and place a dab of glue on the center of the white card stock

        Sew down the center of your ribbon.

        Your Ruffled Note Card will look like this:

        Step 8:

        • Turn your Ruffled Card over to the backside.
        • Align your ruler with the edge of the white card stock.
        • Trim off the excess fabric.

        Step 9:

        • Turn your Ruffled Note Card over to the front side.
        • Sew a 1/4″ seam away from the left edge of the Ruffled Card.
        • Sew a 1/4″ seam away from the right edge of the Ruffled Card.

        One Ruffled Note Card measuring 4 1/4″ X 5 1/2″.

        Your finished Ruffled Note Card will look like this:
        Simply slide your card into the 4 1/2″ X 5 3/4″ envelope. It is now ready to give to someone special!

        Here are a few more Ruffled Note Card options:

        Stefanie Roman

        Please check out my blog for more inspiring projects.
        I will have more Ruffled Note Card photos posted on my blog.
        Thank you for baking with me!

        Fruitcake under my tree

        How many of us have been sewing on Christmas Eve…just trying to finish up one. last. project???

        My sister-in-law inspired this project when she requested a tree-skirt for Christmas; however, I think this little beauty will probably be on my personal to-gift list three or four times.  It’s quick, easy, cute, and oh-so-Christmas.

        Leah, over at Burgundy Buttons, has even made this little tree-skirt in to a kit…just for you.  (And you have six months from today to get it done!)

        If we haven’t met yet, I’m Tracey; I blog over at traceyjay quilts, and I hope you enjoy Fruitcake under my Tree…erh, uh, or under your tree.

        1 Fruitcake Layer Cake

        1/2 yd Maraschino cherry red damask (30228-12) – Setting triangles
        1/2 yd Brown Bias stripe (30223-23) – Binding
        3 yd Maraschino cherry red ornaments (30221-12) – Backing  (Note: I used 2 1/2 yd and threw in a few of the left-over layer cake squares)

        *Please note: 

        WOF = width of fabric
        All seams are right-sides together, with 1/4″ seam allowance, unless otherwise noted

        • Break open that layer cake, and sort in to lights and darks.  You will need 12 light and 12 dark layer cake squares for this project.

        • Grab a pair of contrasting squares.

        • Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner. 

        • Sew 1/4″ away from the line you drew, on both sides of the line.  (Using a 1/4″ sewing foot makes this so easy.)

        • Cut on the line you drew.  Press seams toward the dark square.

        • You now have two half-square triangles (HSTs)!

        • Put them right sides together, with contrasting sides touching (as shown).  If you press your seams to the sides, you will feel them nest in to place.  (The seams are pressed open in this photo; however, for most the blocks I pressed them to the side.)

        • Draw a diagonal line from opposite corners, perpendicular to the seam you just sewed.  Sew 1/4″ on each side.
        • Cut on the line you just drew.
        • You now have two hourglass blocks!  (Repeat 11 more times for a total of 24 blocks.)

        Setting triangles:

        In order to make this tree-skirt in to an octagon, and not a square, we will be using setting triangles on the sides.  We use these triangles because we don’t want to have bias edges on the perimeter of our quilt.  Here’s how they work for this project:

        (size of finished block) 8.75″ x (nifty math formula number) 1.414 + (allowance for the seams) 1.25 = 13.6225 which means 13 5/8″ *parent squares*

        • Cut two 13 5/8″ parent squares.
        • Cut in half diagonally.

        • Cut in half diagonally again to yield four right-triangles.  The long-edge of the triangle (hypotenuse) will be the outside edge of the tree-skirt.

        • Lay-out your blocks with setting triangles as shown below.  I alternated the darks and lights, in a classic hour-glass block design.

        • Pile them into rows for sewing.  (I like to pin and number my rows to keep them sorted.)

        • Sew into rows, pressing seams to alternate sides before joining rows together

        • Use some kind of circle to mark center cut-out of tree (but don’t cut yet).

        • Baste.  
        • Quilt.
        • Cut.
        Yes, your next step is then to cut along one edge and inside the circle you marked earlier (as shown in the photo below.)

        Binding measurements:

        A note about binding:
        I used the bias stripe for my binding fabric, but I cut it on the bias, which made my cuts parallel to the stripes. You can also cut them perpendicular (which I kind of wish I had done).  I only needed 1/2 yard and got around 300″ of binding.  I use this tutorial to make continuous cut bias binding.

        Here’s how much binding you’ll need:
        (24.5″ * 4) = 98 + (18 * 4)= 72 + (22 * 2) = 44 + 26 (inner circle) = 240″ of binding

        1/2 yard of continuous bias binding yields over 300 inches of binding tape. 🙂

        Before you sew your binding down, make your ties by cutting about a yard of binding off the end, and folding the sides to the center and then in half.  Fold one side under and sew closed.  You need 2 ties, each about 18″ long.

        • Pin in place near opening of circle, on the backside of the quilt.
        • Bind
        (Though the corners were not all ninety degrees, they still worked fine to miter!)
        • Wash, Dry, Love.

        A wonderful tree skirt… ready in time for Christmas!

        Measures approximately 54 inches in diameter (pre-washed).

        Kits are available at Burgundy Buttons!

        If you have any questions (or want to see some out-takes), hop on over to my blog, and ask!

        Prairie Point Christmas

        Hey everyone! I’m Cara from CaraQuilts and I’m back with an easy Christmas decoration. Yes, I’m already thinking about Christmas. I find it sneaks up on me too many years, so let’s get a head start now!

        I love prairie points and it just seemed natural to make a tree out of them.

        Like any pattern, please read through it before starting. If you have any questions at all, just e-mail/message me over at my blog and I’d be happy to help! Oh, and make sure to let us know if you like the pattern! 🙂

        2 charm packs – Northwoods Botanical
        1 Bella solids jelly roll – Snow
        1/2 yard outer border – Red 6377 13

        1/2 yard inner border and binding – Dark Green 6375 17

        Optional buttons for decorations of the tree


        From the jelly roll:

        Cut 12 jelly roll strips to 24 1/2” long. (Cut a bit bigger if you like to have lots of room to trim nicely)
        Cut 4 jelly roll strips to 12 1/2”, using the leftover from the above strips

        From a brown charm square:

        Cut (2) 2 1/2” x 4” strips

        Prairie Points

        To make a prairie point, take one 5” charm square (Diagram 1) and fold in half diagonally, wrong sides together.

        Press (Diagram 2).

        Fold in half again so all of the raw edges are on one end and press (Diagram 3).

        If your iron has a steam shot, use it now! From now on I’ll refer to prairie points as pp.

        Diagram 1

        Diagram 2
        Diagram 3

        Repeat so that you have 55 prairie points (pp). I removed all of the cream/beige colored squares, but if you like the look of them mixed in, by all means use them. Using them will result in a multicolored scrappy second border, instead of the beige/cream.

        Making the “tree”

        Fold all of the tree jelly roll strips in half and finger press so you can see a faint line.
        Line up one pp with the tip on your centerline.

        Stay stitch in place. I used a narrow zigzag to hold in place. Stay stitch all strips with the pp. Make sure that you have caught all raw edge layers of the prairie point. If not, it will fray when washed.

        For the second row, line up the 2 pp with the half way mark in the middle empty space between the pp.

        For row 3, line up a pp on the half way mark. Add a pp to both sides, lining up the top edge point about half way on the previous pp. Tuck the pp on the right underneath the center one and so on.

        Continue making rows going 5 pp, 7 pp, 5 pp, 7 pp, 9 pp, 7 pp, 9 pp. Make sure when you make the larger strips that there is at least 3/4″ on either side of the points on the end for a seam/trimming allowance.

        Press well.

        Stitch rows together, being careful to not sew the prairie points from the previous row into the seam. I flipped mine up so they were out of the way. Pinning is important here, even if you normally don’t do much pinning.

        Press well. The top prairie point is pressed up and the rest are pressed down.

        Add one 24 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ strip to the top of the tree.

        Let’s make the trunk of the tree. Take the 2 1/2” x 4” strips and stitch a 12 1/2″ strip to either side. Repeat with the second 2 1/2” x 4” strip. Press the trunk strips in opposite directions – one toward the trunk and one away – so that they snap together when you stitch them. Stitch together and then stitch to the bottom strip of the tree. Press well.

        Attach one more 24 1/2x 2 1/2″ strip to the bottom of the tree. Press.

        Trim up the center section. Make sure there is at least 1/2″ past the points and that the top point is centered. Trim the block to 24 1/2″ x 29″ if necessary.


        Measure your top well and often so that your borders will fit. Pinning is important here because of the weight of the top. A walking foot wouldn’t hurt either, but it isn’t necessary.

        Border # 1
        Cut (4) 1 1/2” x WOF (Width of Fabric) strips. Attach the long sides first and press away from the center. Attach the short sides. Press well, away from the center.

        Border #2
        Take all the cream/beige from one charm pack and two from the second, for a total of 14 charm squares. Trim these to 2 1/2” x 5”. Stitch rectangles end to end to create two 6-strip borders for the short side and two 8-strip borders for the long side. All of the strips will be a bit longer then necessary. I trimmed the excess off, but if you want them all exact make your seam a bit larger than 1/4″.
        Attach the long sides first. Press towards the center. Attach the short sides and press towards the center.

        Border #3
        Cut (4) 4 1/2” x WOF strips. Attach strips to the short sides first. Press away from the center. Add the remaining borders and press away from the center.

        The top is done!

        Now for those words we either love or hate: Baste, Quilt, and Bind!

        A word from the “wise”- quilt under the prairie points, making sure not to quilt over them. Also this is a very heavy quilt because of all the prairie points, so if you’re planning on hanging this, make sure you have double stitched your sleeve.

        After quilting, I tacked the top prairie point down by lifting the point and catching the top layer of fabric on the underside of the prairie point. I stitched it a couple of times and knotted it off so it would not flop down.

        One 38 1/2″ x 43″ tree!

        I’d love to see your wall hanging. Add your project to the Bake Shop’s Flickr page!

        Cara Wilson of CaraQuilts

        Summer Pinwheels

        Hi! We are two sisters who love fabric. Our company is called The Sproutz Store. Check out our blog for great ideas and our ETSY shop for awesome patterns, and fabrics! We hope you enjoy this tutorial for pinwheels. We think they work great for a fun summer centerpiece.

        1 layer cake (we used “Dream On” by Urban Chiks)
        Heavy weight double-sided fusible interfacing
        Eraser (the kind that fits on the end of a pencil)


        1. Choose (2) 10″ squares from your layer cake for each pinwheel you would like to make.

        2. Trim interfacing so it is slightly smaller than your 10″ squares of fabric. We trimmed ours to 9 3/4″.
        3. At the ironing board, lay one fabric square right side down and center your interfacing on top. Put your other 10″ fabric square on top of the interfacing right side up. Press until the interfacing is securely attached to the fabric.

        4. Trim your squares so that all edges (bottom fabric, interfacing, and top fabric) are even. Make sure you still have a perfect square.

        5. From each corner, measure 4 1/2″ diagonally to the center and mark. Repeat 3 times. These will be your cutting lines.
        6. Cut on lines.

        7. Bring every other corner to the center to make your pinwheel shape. Stick a pushpin through the center to secure all four corners.
        8. Put your eraser on the end of the dowel and push the pin through. Bend the pin down or trim so it won’t be too pokey. If your eraser won’t stay on the dowel, use some hot glue to secure.

        9. Add a button to the center of the front of your pinwheel. We used hot glue to secure the button.

        You are done!

        Note: You can also use a charm square to make smaller pinwheels. Use a medium to heavy weight double-sided fusible interfacing. You will need to measure and mark 2 1/2″ diagonally from each corner and then trim. You could also trim down some Layer Cake squares to make various sized pinwheels.

        1 pinwheel.

        Ruffle Quilt

        1 jelly roll: choose 12 strips OR if you don’t have a Jelly Roll, you’ll need (12) 2 ½” strips by WOF
        1 ¼ yard of fabric for solid strips and ruffles
        ⅓ yard binding fabric (or use 4 jelly roll strips)
        1 ½ yard backing fabric

        1. Take your 12 strips and cut each strip into:
            (2) 5” pieces
            (2) 7” pieces
            (2) 10” pieces

        See photo below:

        2. Start piecing together new strips. For each new strip you will need two different 5” pieces, two different 7” pieces, and two different 10” pieces. Mix fabrics and lengths however you want. The more random, the better. Your new mixed strips will be approximately 2 ½ X 42″. Make 12 mixed strips.

        3. Take your 1 ¼ yard of fabric and cut (15) 2 ½ X WOF strips. Set aside 10 strips; they will be used later for the ruffles.

        4. Layout the design, starting with two mixed strips then one solid strip. Continue until you use all five solid strips. You will use 12 mixed strips and 5 solid strips. Sew all strips together until quilt top is finished. See below.

        5. Square the top to 34” x 42”. NOTE: Depending on your cutting and sewing this measurement should be close.

        Making the Ruffles:

        1. Take the (10) 2 ½” x 42” ruffle fabric strips cut previously. Sew (2) 2 ½” x 42” strips together, making one long continuous strip. Repeat 5 times. Finish long side raw edges of strip with a small hem or zigzag stitch.

        2. You can either gather the strips by sewing basting stitches down the center of the strip and pulling stitches to gather the ruffle to 40”, or you can use a ruffle foot. We used a ruffle foot; it made making the ruffles so fast and easy. Make (5) 40” ruffle strips.

        3. Before you add the ruffles to each of the five solid strips, quilt the top as desired.

        4. Place one 40” ruffle on one of the solid strips of the quilt, determine where to hem the 2 short ends of the ruffle and do so. Using a walking foot, machine stitch down the center of the ruffle. Continue until you have sewn all 5 ruffles to the 5 solid strips.


        From binding fabric cut (4) 2 ½” strips, or use jelly roll strips.

        Sew all 4 strips together (short ends) to make 1 continuous strip. Fold binding strip in half wrong sides together and press. Attach binding to right side of quilt (raw edges even) and machine stitch all the way around. Turn binding to back and hand stitch down.

         Copyright 2010 Jamie Mueller and SunFlower Quilts
        *I hope ya’ll enjoy this ruffle quilt! If you make one too please feel free to email me with photos, I’d LOVE to see them!

        Lattice Garden Shower Curtain

        1 Layer Cake – featured Eden by Lila Tueller
        1 Jelly Roll in Bella Solid Snow
        1 yard of coordinating fabric
        1 yard of Fusible Interfacing (Pellon SF101)
        2 1/4 yard of 120″ wide muslin (a queen size flat sheet would also work great) for lining
        2 pkgs Dritz Extra-Large Eyelet Kits (#660-65) – Size 7/16″ (1.1cm) – need 12 eyelets
        Decorative Shower Curtain Hooks (pkg of 12)

        All seam allowances are 1/4″

        CUTTING the Layer Cake… 
        A Layer Cake comes packaged with 42 squares so you will need to cut two additional 10″ squares from the coordinating yardage to make a total of 44 squares.
        Select 8 of the squares and cut them in half DIAGONALLY.
        Select 1 of the squares and cut in half diagonally and then in half again the opposite way diagonally. You should end up with four triangles from one layer cake square.

        CUTTING the Jelly Roll…
        Cut 88 – 10″ strips x 2 1/2″.
        Cut 44 – 2 1/2″ squares.
        Take 9 of the 2 1/2″ squares and cut them in half DIAGONALLY creating 18 triangles.
        Take 1 of the newly created triangles and cut it in half to create 2 smaller triangles.

        CUTTING the coordinating yardage…
        Cut 2 – 6 1/2″ x WOF (width of fabric).

        CUTTING the Fusible Interfacing…
        Cut 5 – 6 1/2″ x WOF.

        Layout your squares, triangles and sashings on point so you have 4 full Layer Cake squares down and 5 1/2 Layer Cake squares across. 

         Sew the layer cake rows together and the sashing rows together 

         Then sew all the rows together

         This is what you should end up with once all your layer cake rows and sashing rows are sewn together.

         Take the two 6 1/2″ strips cut from your coordinating fabric and sew the short ends together to create one long strip.  Sew the long 6 1/2″ strip to the top of your pieced shower curtain.  Press.

         With the fusible side facing the wrong side of the curtain top, iron on the fusible interfacing.  You will need to overlap the short ends just slightly to cover the entire length of the curtain top. Trim off any excess interfacing.  This will help reinforce and make the top sturdy when you add the large eyelet grommets.

         Place the 120″ muslin or queen flat sheet right side up on the floor and secure to the floor with safety pins or tape.  Lay your shower curtain face down on top of the muslin or sheet and pin along all four edges to hold in place.  Carefully trim the excess fabric or sheet around the shower curtain.  Sew a 1/4″ seam around all four sides leaving only a 4″ opening at the top of the curtain.  Flip right side out. Press.  Top Stitch with an 1/8″ seam across the top of the shower curtain to close opening and to finish the edge.

        From the top of your shower curtain, place 12 small marks evenly across the top of the shower curtain 1 1/2″ down from the top.  The two end marks will be 5 1/2″ from either edge and the rest of the marks will be 7″ apart.
        Following the instructions on the X-large eyelet kit, apply 12 eyelet/grommets to the marked spots.

        Add a plastic shower curtain liner to the backside help keep the curtain from getting wet.

        Hang on your decorative shower hooks and enjoy!   

        Approx. 88″ x 72″ Shower Curtain