Herringbone Haul-It-All Tote with Jelly Rolls


Hi, y’all!  This is Marion from MyQuiltDiet.blogspot.com.  I am so excited to share this fun project with you here at the Moda Bakeshop!  I just started quilting a little bit ago, but I have been making bags for years.  They are one of my favorite projects to make 🙂 …especially ones with zippers some where in them ;D

This tote is the perfect must-have bag for every need.  Haul around your hand sewing or maybe groceries.  Lug some books home from the library or clothes for an overnight.  This is particular bag is the first of two that I will share with you here at the Moda Bake Shop.  This one is more medium sized and made from jelly roll strips.  Watch for the second tutorial in a few weeks.  The Honeycomb Haul-It-All is larger and made with a honeycomb pre-cut.

One of the beauties of this project is that one jelly roll will make several bag exteriors 😉  PARTY!  Break out a new jelly roll and create a few scrappy delights or use up left over jelly roll scraps you’ve got laying around in your stash.  So much fun to be had!


1 jelly roll for the tote exterior & straps
18″ x 28″ coordinating fabric for tote interior
11.5″ x 18″ coordinating fabric for interior zipper pocket
12″ x 20″ coordinating fabric for large interior pocket
10″ zipper
3/4 yard heavy weigh fusible interfacing 45″ wide ( I use Pellon 809)
22″ x 32″ piece of batting

Start out with your favorite jelly roll 🙂  This sweet pile of GORGEOUS is American Jane’s Potluck.
I prefer to start by sorting my colors into piles 🙂

To begin the chop chop, line up one edge of a jelly roll strip with a grid line on your cutting mat.

Using Jaybird’s Hexy ‘n More ruler, line up the 4-1/2″ Triangle line on the ruler with the bottom edge of the jelly roll strip.  (You will note that the 1-1/2″ triangle line on the ruler will match up with a mat line to help you know you are doing it right 😉
***You may use any 60 degree triangle ruler or line on your ruler.  The wide bottom base is 5.5″ and the narrow top of the half hexy is 2.5″***

Cut a total of 84 “half hexy” pieces. Two from each strip. 
[Four of your remaining strips will be used for the straps]
***OCD Side Note- After all of  my pieces are cut, I prefer to separate my like prints into two piles of 42 each.  I work from one pile first and then the second to ensure better distribution of the prints in my project. …I then sort my two piles by color for more OCD fun 😉  Someday I will get brave and toss them all into a bag and go for true randomness.  If you try the random bag method, leave me a comment and let me know how it went 🙂 ***
Now it’s time to line up your first few pieces as seen below.

Are you ready to sew yet?  We are going to start with this first seam… the one I am pointing too 🙂

Lay the small red flower print over the top of the green check, like so.  Make sure there is a 1/4″ over lap as seen below…see how the red floral print corner is hanging over the green check on the top-left of center edge?

Then sew it up 🙂

You will just need to sew to the edge of the green check.

Press, and put back into your layout. 

Take the next half hexy (the blue daisy here) and lay over the previously sewn piece.  

Center it.  The bottom corner/points will poke over by about a 1/4 inch.  You want the new piece to poke over evenly on each side.

Sew & press 🙂  Isn’t it looking fun?

Repeat!

Oh NO!!! I hate it when my thread does that! :/

Just keep sewing….

…and sewing…

Pretty soon, you will have them ALL sewn together into a beautiful long herringbone 🙂

Now for those pesky ends…

Line them up and chop them off! ….”OFF WITH THEIR HEADS”….or tails as it may be ;D

Ta- Da!

Now for the sort of tricky, but not too bad part 🙂  Take your LONG herringbone and fold it into even thirds, like below, except that you kinda cant tell that it is folded in thirds 🙂

…but it is, see?

…and from the other side.

Get the thirds as equal as possible and bravely cut 🙂
Lay them side by side to see how they look next to each other.  You may need to rearrange them a bit to get it right 🙂  Don’t worry too much about it, it will be GREAT!

Ready to sew your rows?  (I recommend pinning for this process.  The edges of the rows are a bit biased and will stretch a titch.)
Sew the rows, then press.

Now, you have a choice to make, do you want your bag quilted or not?  If you want it quilted, here is your chance.  I decided to quilt mine.  I spray basted my pieced panel to some batting and straight line quilted it.

I quilted it only with the top panel and batting, no backing, using a walking foot for the “straight” lines.  (I am a very “organic” straight line quilter… that means my lines are NOT very straight and even 🙂

….but I like them 🙂

****If you would prefer not to quilt it, you will need to use a heavy fusible interfacing on the back of your panel.  When I use fusible interfacing on pieced fabric, I cut my interfacing larger than the panel, fuse it to the panel and then square the panel.  (You will need a 1/2 yard more pellon)
Are you ready for the interior?
Fuse the interfacing to the back of the interior lining fabric.
At this point you need to make sure that your interior lining fabric and your exterior quilted piece are the same size.  Trim as needed to make sure they are the same size.
Lay your interior lining piece, right side up on your work surface. 

Take your fabric for the zippered pocket and lay it right sides together on your interior lining fabric as shown.  Place the pocket fabric about 2″ below the top edge.

Next you will need to draw a 1/2″ wide rectangle on the pocket fabric.

It should be about an inch to an inch and a half away from the top and sides of the pocket fabric edge as shown below.  

Pin and sew on the drawn skinny rectangle.

Now for a bit of snip snip.

Please cut carefully, with sharp scissor,s down the center of the long rectangle, through both layers of fabric, stopping a 1/2″ before the end.

At the end, you will want to cut a “v” shaped cut up to, but not through, the corner stitching of the rectangle.

Now, shove your pocket fabric through the new cut opening to the back side of the interior lining fabric.

Get it all though 🙂

…and press 🙂

At this point, you may have to “make” the pocket lining behave.  
Tug and press and don’t burn your fingers! 🙂

Take your zipper and lay it behind your interior lining so you can see it.

Carefully pin the zipper into place.  This can take a bit of patience, as the zipper sometimes likes to wiggle ;D 

Carefully top stitch around the edge of the opening to attach the zipper.

Yippee!  It’s in!

A view from the back side.

Now to sew up the zipper pocket.  Fold up the zippered pocket fabric so the bottom meets up with the top.

Another shot.

Pin only the pocket fabric together.  Do not pin the pocket fabric to the bag’s interior lining fabric.

Fold back the interior lining fabric to expose the zippered pocket fabric.

Sew shut using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Repeat for the other two sides of the zippered pocket.  (The bottom of the zippered pocket is a fold, so it won’t need to be sewn 🙂  BONUS!!!)

Once your zippered pocket is all sewn shut, sew right along the top, top stitch seam above the zipper.

This keeps the pocket from sagging inside the bag lining.

Can I get a WHOOP WHOOP???  You just made a zippered pocket!!!

Now for the long, interior pocket.  Fuse the fusible interfacing to the backside of the long interior pocket.

Fold in half and press well.
Put right sides together and sew the bottom seam.

Flip right side out and press well, especially that thick bottom seam 🙂

Take your interior lining fabric (yellow daisy’s) fold in half and press a crease in the bottom fold (you can see it in the picture below on the left).  
***for some reason I don’t have a picture of this next step, so I drew a diagram 🙂 …sorry, I’m not an artist :/ ***
Take your interior pocket fabric (blue multi pezzy) and top stitch right along the top edge of the fold (opposite to the thick bottom seam you just pressed).  
Now, lay you interior lining fabric (yellow daisy) on your work surface.  Place the long pocket (blue multi pezzy) across it with the thick seam at the bottom and the thin, folded, top stitched seam at the top.  The bottom [thick seam] should be about 2.5″ up from the fold you pressed into the center of the yellow daisy fabric.
Pin in place.  Now, top stitch the pocket into place along the bottom, on the thick bottom seam.  Then top stitch on either edge, right along the edge (this will help when you are putting the bag together).  Next, top stitch two lines to form 3 pockets.  See diagram & picture below.

Top stitching the bottom of the pocket onto the interior lining fabric.

See the pressed fold on the left?
If you look closely, you can see the top stitching that forms the pockets.
See?  A pocket 🙂

…and another 🙂

Now to form the bag.  Ready?
Fold your interior lining, right sides together, like so.  Stitch up one of the sides (using a half inch seam allowance).

Stitch up the other side (also using a 1/2″ seam allowance), but leave a 4″ opening.  This opening needs to be at least 3-4″ from the top edge, and about 5″ from the bottom fold.

Trim off your long pocket overages.

For the exterior of the bag, place right sides together and sew up the sides as well using a 1/2″ seam allowance, but do not leave an opening in either of the sides 🙂
At this point, I like to hold up my interior and exterior right next to each other to see if the side seams line up at the top with each other.  If they are within a scant 1/8″ inch of each other, no worries.  If the difference is bigger, hold tight, there is an easy fix on the way… just take in one of the side seams in the larger of the two 🙂 ….so lets say the interior lining is a 1/4″ bigger than the exterior, just take the side that doesn’t have the opening in it, and stitch a seam a 1/4″ in from the original seam.  Don’t worry about unstitching the first seam, it will be hidden inside the bag 🙂
Now to set the corners.  Do this for the interior and the exterior of the bag.  With the wrong side out, put your hand inside the bag and form this triangle in the bottom of the bag on one side.  Be sure the side seam is straight up and down as shown below.  Using a ruler, put the 2.5″ line at the point of the triangle.
Draw a line.  Stitch along that line.

Do this for both corners, in both the lining and the exterior.

***Some people prefer to cut off the little triangles after making the corners, I prefer to leave them for extra stability.***

Say, “Aaaahhh!”

Strap Construction
Select four jelly roll strips to form the straps. [After cutting off two half hexies from a jelly roll strip in the beginning, the left over strip is perfect for a strap.]  Each strap will have two sides, one that I will call the outside (blue) and the other, the inside (red and green chick fabric).
Fuse interfacing to each of the outside/blue strap pieces.  Place one outside/blue and one inside/chick strip right sides together, stitch together using a 1/4″ seam.  Do this for both straps.

Stitch a basting seam along one end for turning.

Turn the strap right side out..  (I use a chop stick or a knitting needle for this fun business.)

Press.

Top stitch as desired.  I did three rows of stitching for mine.
Trim straps to the same length. …about 33″ long each.
Bag Assembly

Turn interior lining right side out.

Place the interior lining into the [inside out] exterior bag, like so.

Snuggle it down in there good 🙂

Pin straps in place.  For this bag, I center the straps on the herringbone seams.  Make sure the straps extend about a 1/2″ above the edge of the bag.  [The fabric that is touching the exterior bag fabric will be the strap fabric you see primarily.]
Pin well.

Make sure that your side seams match up.  Pin well. [I usually do not sew the side seams open, but when the exterior is quilted, it is sometimes easier to do it that way.]

Stitch around the top using a generous 1/2″ seam allowance.

After you have sewn the top seam, go back and do some wide zig-zag stitches on the straps for reinforcement.

Carefully reach inside the side seam that you left open and turn the bag right side out.
After tucking in the seam allowances and finger pressing, carefully pin and sew the side seam shut.  I use a narrow zig-zag, but you may straight stitch or hand sew it shut if you like.

My narrow zig-zag.

Once your bag is all turned, top stitch a 1/4″ around the top edge of the bag.

Voila!!!  Pretty tote for all of your needs 🙂


One SUPER cute medium-ish sized Haul-It-All Tote 🙂

Tote size- 11″ tall by 17″ wide.  The bottom of the bag is 5.25″ wide.

One large zippered pocket and a large triple side pocket.

These chicks are TOO cute!!!

Be sure to come by in a few weeks to see another way to make this bag using other Moda pre-cuts!  The second bag is even BIGGER and just as fabulous!!!!

When you make yours, be sure to post it to Instagram be sure to tag me @myquiltdiet and hash tag it #haulitalltote 🙂  I can’t wait to see your bags!
Marion McClellan

September is National Sewing Month

September is the month to celebrate sewing and it’s right around the corner. In 1982, President Ronald Reagan declared September as National Sewing Month “in recognition of the importance of home sewing to our Nation.”  We need to work on making that an international celebration, too.


National Sewing Month is promoted by the Sewing & Craft Alliance and the American Sewing Guild.

Some of the Bake Shop Basics tutorials recently shared by our Chefs:

Pressing

Binding

Is there a basic technique you would like to learn or improve your skills? Email Oda May at modabakeshop{at}unitednotions{dot}com and let her know.

Charming Wonky Diamonds Quilt


I’m thrilled to be making my first appearance as a chef here at Moda Bake Shop! This project has been in the works for some time, but a new baby and a cross country move totally messed with my sewjo and time for blogging. We’re in our new place now, and I get to set up a new sewing space. I want you join me for a Sewing Room Clean-up Along as I get my space in order, so please come visit me at Sewing by Moonlight.

Because this design repeats the same shape, it would be easy to add in another charm pack and some more background fabric to make this larger, or leave off a couple rows to make it smaller. Because of the scrappy look, you could use charm packs from two different, coordinating fabric lines for the diamonds. Or you could make the background scrappy with white diamonds.

2 charm packs for the diamonds and border – Snap Pop by Sandy Gervais
3 charm packs + 4 additional charms for the background

2.5 yards for the quilt back
1/2 yard for the binding

*set aside 22 colorful charms for the outer border*
*set aside 6 background charms for the inner border*

Cut the remaining charms from your fabric collection into 8 sections. Using your rotary cutter, first cut the charm twice corner-to-corner to make four triangles. Subcut those triangles through the middle to make 8 pieces.

Cut the remaining background charms into quarter from edge to edge, resulting in 2.5 inch squares.

You will have 496 squares of background fabric and 496 triangles of colorful fabric.

Pair up each colorful triangle with a square of background fabric.

Place the triangle right side down on the square of background fabric so that the long edge of the triangle is off-set to the right side of the background square (see first photo below). The triangle must be at least 1/4 inch to the right of center so that when you sew the pieces together, your triangle will complete a 2.5 inch square. note: you do not have to place each piece exactly the same. Variable placement will make your diamonds wonky. Tilt some triangles slightly to the left or to the right. Place them farther to the right side of the the square. 

This is a great time to chain piece. Now trim off the extra bit of background fabric, and cut your triangles apart. Iron the seam open.

Now comes the tedious task of trimming 496 squares back to 2.5 inches. I lined up several rows on my cutting mat and trimmed several at a time with my rotary cutter. Just be careful that your squares don’t slip.

Match the squares into pairs so that the colorful corner triangles are touching. Sew them together using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. 
*set aside 14 pairs to use in the inner border*

Sew the remaining pairs into units of 6 pairs, as shown in the photo below. Two pairs will form a diamond and the third will have a half diamond facing the edge. 

Use these 6-pair unit to make three block types, as shown below. You will need six of Block A, six of Block B, and three of Block C. Trim Blocks A and B to 12.5 inches square and Block C to 12.5 x 4.5 inches.

Sew each block type into rows of three, matching up the 1/2 diamonds on the edges to form complete diamonds.

Create the inner borders. This border will complete the half diamonds along the long edges. Cut the six background charms you set aside in half, then trim 1/2 inch off one end. You will have 12 rectangles 2.5 x 4.5 inches. 
Use 6 of these for an inner border on each long edge of your quilt. Alternate a half diamond pair with a rectangle of background fabric. Sew the borders along the edges, matching the half diamonds in the border with the half diamonds on the edges of the quilt top. 
Create the outer borders. Cut the 22 colorful charms you set aside in half. Sew 9 of the 2.5 x 5 inch rectangles together using 1/4 inch seam allowance at the short sides. Sew this border along one of the short sides of your quilt. Repeat with another 9 rectangles and sew that border along the opposite side. Now sew 2 border pieces made of 13 triangles each and attach them to the two remaining sides of the quilt. You will have an overhang of 2.5 inches along each long side. 

I used those two overhanging squares with a strip of the binding fabric to piece the back.

I knew I wanted to quilt this with the dogwood free motion pattern found at Oh Fransson! The grid pattern of the quilt top lends itself perfectly to this technique. But when it came to what thread to use, I was at a loss. I visited my friend and quilting mentor and she asked me one very simple question: “Do you want to emphasize your quilting or your piecing?”

Since this is a project for Moda Bakeshop, I wanted to highlight precuts and let the quilting be secondary. The solution was Aurifil 50 wt thread in a color numbered 2021, which is white, but not bright white (you might call it winter white) so it fades into the background without standing out against the bright colors of Snap Pop.

Try this quilting pattern, or let your creativity guide you in another direction. Trim, bind (I tried machine binding for this one), and you’re finished. 

One quilt, 44 x 56 inches, perfect as a large baby quilt or a small throw.

Em Komiskey
{www.sewingbymoonlight.com}

Bitty Bunting Quilt

 

Everyone loves a bunting quilt! I was inspired to make this quilt from the trimmings of another quilt. I was using a pattern that calls for dog ear corners from 2½” squares. The resulting triangles looked like pretty bunting flags to me (considering that the fabric was Bonnie and Camille’s Marmalade, any excuse to not throw out even tiny scraps, right?) I kept them in a bin on my cutting table for a few days and the idea of using Moda Candy for tiny bunting flags popped into my head.

Moda Candy are perfect for this quilt since folding them in half allows you to create two-sided flags that look very cute waving about. There are lots of ways to attach the flags – use bias tape like I have or sew them all down first and add ric rac trim. I’ve also made bunting quilts with Perle cotton stitches standing in for the bias tape. Use what you have on hand. There is really no wrong way.

If you want to use a solid background instead of piecing the ombré background, simply start with a 1½ yard cut. I’ve also included a girly color option below.

Bunting:
43 Moda Candy pieces* (equivalent to 1 packages plus 1 more.  I used a mix of Lucy’s Crab Shack, PB&J, and Oh Deer!)
4 yd of ¼” double-fold bias tape in coordinating color
Background: 
¼ yd dark blue (Royal | Bella Solid 9900-19)
¼ yd cobalt blue (Bright Sky | Bella Solid 9900-115)
¼ yd bright blue (Capri | Bella Solid 9900-225)
¼ yd gray blue (Glacier | Bella Solid 9900-207)
¼ yd light blue (Blue Raspberry | Bella Solid 9900-84)
¼ yd white (White Bleached | Bella Solid 9900-98)

Binding: 3/8 yd preferred print (I used Silver | 9900-183)

Backing: 3¼ yd (I used bits of leftover blues and Lush Uptown | 26047-22)

*NOTE: You may use more or fewer pieces of Moda Candy, depending on how you swag your bunting across the quilt.

Alternative Fabric Choices:
For a girl version of this quilt, try using Shocking Pink | 9900-223, Popsicle | 9900-143,  30s Pink | 9900-27, Amelia Pink | 9900-166, and Parfait Pink | 9900-248 instead of the blues listed above.

 
1. Piece ¼ yd strips from light to dark to create ombré background. Trim the selvedges before you sew or leave them on and trim all of them at once like I did. Press each seam from light to dark.

2. Layer up with your backing fabric and batting and quilt.

3. Square up quilted background and set aside.

4. Time to sew the bitty bunting! Set your stack of Moda Candy next to your sewing machine. Fold the first Candy square diagonally from corner to corner to create a triangle. Press or pin to make it easier to sew.

Top stitch around the sides of the triangle. You can chain piece but be careful not to stitch your Candy pieces together.

5. Place one bunting triangle between your bias tape with the fold  facing away from the triangle point.  Top stitch along the opposite edge of the bias tape to close the seam.

6. Pin bitty bunting to quilted background so that it drapes from edge to edge.

7. You can attach your bunting by top stitching long fold of the bias tape OR use an invisible stitch to tack it down (that’s what I did).

8. Trim any loose threads and bind as desired.


A simple, sweet, and modern baby gift! Measures approximately  43″ x 51″.

Lisa Calle
{www.vintagemodernquilts.com}

Q&A with Oda May: Going Green

 Oda May is back today to answer a reader question about Printer Friendly Files.

Dear Oda May,
I am so inspired by the Moda Bake Shop! There are many, many projects I want to make. I print out the Printer Friendly file from each recipe that I want to make so I can have it on hand. The only problem is that they’re really starting to pile up! Plus I’m running out of printer ink every few weeks. Any tips on organizing my printed recipes or keeping track of what I want to make without printing so much? I think I have all of 2013 printed out!

Drowning in Recipes in Denver
Dear Drowning,
I know the feeling! I also have a hard time keeping track of MBS recipes and other patterns. There are too many wonderful things I’ve got on that ol’ mental “make some day” list. But I do have some tips to help you stay organized and get out from under that pile of papers.

1.Start a Pin Board. You can go virtual by using Pinterest to organize and save all of those projects you want to make. Be sure to follow the Moda Bake Shop board.

Do you prefer an old school pin board over a virtual one? Instead of printing out the entire recipe, just print the first page and pin it to your board. Then when you’re ready to make it, you can easily find the recipe using the recipe title and Chef’s name from the page you printed.

2. Go Digital. So many designers offer digital versions of their patterns these days and for good reason! It’s easier to keep track of digital files. Download them to your computer or mobile device (smartphone or tablet). You can also download our Printer Friendly Files to your Kindle or other e-reader.


3. Print Sparingly. If you have to have a paper copy to work from when you’re sewing, print it out just before you start instead of printing all of the projects you want to make.

Any reader tips on keeping up with all of those Moda Bake Shop projects you want to make?
Happy Sewing,

Million Pillowcase Blog Hop


American Patchwork and Quilting has put us up to the challenge once again but this time with an amazing Blog Hop. In support of the 1 Million Pillowcase Challenge effort, we were asked to make the Train Pillowcase – Pattern 32 for the Challenge… and to be CREATIVE with it. Get the full instructions and templates for the pillowcase here.

The team behind this charitable effort is so amazing and stories/photos that have been shared are so inspiring. If you have not heard about the Million Pillowcase Challenge, you can learn more about how you can help here.

So with the blog hop challenge, I thought… why not go BIG or go home… right? So, I first blew the template Patterns A-E up to 200%, traced templates A-D onto my fusible web and ironed them onto the wrong side of my fabrics.

I selected 5 Fat Quarters from Flats fabric collection by Angela Yosten for Moda Fabrics for all my template pieces. Please note: for a complete supplies list for your pillowcase, visit http://www.allpeoplequilt.com/millionpillowcases/freepatterns/index.html

 From template Pattern E, I cut 2 pieces right sides together.

I then stitched along the sides and top curve, leaving the bottom open for turning.

Before turning the train car right side out, I clipped along the curved edge just to the seam so the seam would lay flat when turned right side out.

I then pinned and stitched the car behind the train engine leaving the top curved edge open. Finally, I machine stitched and hand stitched all the applique pieces using Flats Thread collection from Aurifil Threads. Make a set of Flats dolls and pets from the panels and insert them in the car for loads of fun!

 
All the patterns provided by American Patchwork and Quilting are fun and easy to follow.

Join in the creative giving and make a pillowcase today to donate. Just a few minutes of your time will make a huge difference to someone in need!

Quilted Patchwork Pouch

Hi!  I’m Julie from 627handworks.com.  My main love is quilting but I always enjoy making a good pouch.  Zipper bags are fun to make whether you are a seasoned quilter or just started sewing. Is there really such a thing as too many bags?  Never.

I love how the Mini Charms make it easy to put together a scrappy look. I’ve taken some of my favorite pouch options and combined them into a quilted zipper bag.
Gather up your materials.


1 Mini Charm Pack – Sunnyside by Kate Spain
1 Coordinating Fat Quarter
11″ Zipper
(2) 12 x 10 Pieces of Batting


1/2″ D-Ring for Pull Tab
Interfacing for lining fabric

PIECING

Break open those Mini Charms.

Choose 36 charms for your quilted exterior, 2 for your zipper stops and 2 for your pull tab.

Lay out the exterior charms. Notice there are no charms on the bottom corners. 

 When piecing little charms for patchwork I like to chain sew. Use a 1/4″ seam for piecing.

Don’t iron quite yet – wait until you have strip sets (rows of charms) in place.

When have your strip sets sewn together, iron the seams with each row going opposite directions.

This makes it easy for lining up the rows. You won’t even need to pin!  The way you’ve ironed the seams helps lock them together for sewing.

If you feel more comfortable pinning, go for it.  I’m okay using this method for smaller projects that are easier to handle.

Now you should have 2 pieced panels similar to this.

PULL TAB

Make the pull tab by taking 2 of the charms we put aside and sew them together, ironing the seam open.  

Iron lengthwise to mark the center and open it up.   Now fold and iron the edges to the center iron line.

Fold in half again and stitch down the edge of each side.

Optional D-Ring:  Fold your tab in half and stitch the ring in place.

FABRIC STOPS

Take 2 more of the charms we pulled aside. These will be used as fabric stops for the zipper.

Fold in half, iron and open.  Fold and iron a generous 1/4″.

QUILTING

Layer your batting under your fabric panel.

The quilting design is up to you!  I stitched straight, diagonal lines through the middle of each charm.

If you do a lot of straight line quilting, chalk markers will line right against your ruler. Makes it kind of nice.

Trim the batting, be careful not to cut any of the charms.

I don’t place fabric on the underside and I’ve never had a problem without it.  You can use muslin or scrap fabric if you want, but this will all be hidden.

Cut two 8.5″ x 10.5″ rectangles from your fat quarter. This will be your lining.

Optional Interfacing: Iron the interfacing to your fabric.  I like using interfacing because it provides extra stability.

Trim your lining and cut a 2″ square from the bottom corners so they resemble the shape of the quilted panels.

ASSEMBLY

You should have something like this:

Take a fabric zipper stop and fold it over the edge of the zipper end.  Sew along the folded edge of the stop to attach.

Open the little tab and cut the zipper down to 1/4″ seam. This removes extra material so the corners aren’t so bulky.

Attach the other fabric zipper stop – leaving 8″ between the two stops.  Trim the extra zipper material from the inside of that stop as well.

Layer:
Quilted exterior right side up
Zipper facing down
     (center the fabric stops so the same amount of fabric sticks out on the right and left)
Lining right side down

Using a zipper foot sew along the top edge of the exterior-zipper-lining sandwich.

Fold the sewn layers off to one side and layer:

Quilted exterior right side up
Zipper facing down
     (the first set of fabrics should be folded down with the other fabrics and out of the way)
Lining right side down

Using a zipper foot sew along the top edge.

Fold each side open. A lining and quilted panel should be wrong sides together on each side.

Top stitch along each side of the zipper and trim the extra fabric off the zipper stops.

Fold the two lining fabrics together – right sides facing.

Fold the two quilted panels together – right sides facing.

Place the pull tab on the inside where the zipper pull will be when the pouch is closed.  If the pull tab is too long for your liking, trim a 1/2″ off first.

Make sure your zipper is OPEN!

Line up the top stitching from the two quilted panels and pin in place on each side. This keep your sides lined up. 

Sew using a 1/2″ seam down the sides like the image below.  Don’t sew the corners. Remember to leave a turning hole!

Once the sides are sewn, separate a corner and fold the seams together.  Sew using 1/2″ seam.

Repeat for all corners and you should have something that resembles this.

See that little hole we left in the lining?  Stick your hand in there and start pulling the bag right side out.

This is why we left that zipper open!

Sew your lining hole closed. This is a good spot to sew in a label.

Stuff the lining down inside the pouch and poke out the corners of the bag and the zipper.

Don’t use anything sharp or you’ll stab right through your fabric creating an ugly little hole.  I may or may not have done this before. And I may or may not have done it more than once.

 


One Awesome Quilted Patchwork Pouch

Ta-da!  Your pouch is complete. 
If you make a patchwork pouch I’d love to see it!
Julie Hirt