Simple Drawstring Bag

Have your kids lost their lunch bags yet?  Mine have.  Not permanently lost, mind you, just lost in the morning when I am rushing to make lunches.  My solution:  more lunch bags.   🙂   You will be able to make two simple drawstring bags out of one fat quarter and some ribbon in about a half hour.  I do have to admit that some lunches are a tight squeeze into these bags, so if you tend to use Tupperware, or pack large lunches, you many want to make your bags larger.

One fat quarter of fabric (18 x 22 inches).
About 48 inches of 5/8 inch ribbon

 Cut the fat quarter into two 8.5 x 21 inch rectangles.  Each rectangle will make one drawstring bag.

**If you want to make a wider drawstring bag, cut 1/3 of a yard into two 12 x 22 inch pieces**

Zig zag along the long edges of the rectangle to prevent fraying.  I set my stitch length to 2 and my width to 3.5.

Fold the rectangle in half, right sides together, so that the two unfinished edges are touching.  On one side, measure down 2 inches and mark with two pins.  Pin both sides as needed.

 Starting at the pins, stitch down to the bottom of the fabric with a 1/2 seam allowance.  Back stitch at the top and bottom.  On the other side, stitch from the unfinished top down to the bottom.

 Clip off the bottom corners at an angle.

 Press the seam allowances open.  This is how the side that was started 2 inches down should look.

Turn under the unfinished top 1/4 inch and iron.

Turn down again approximately 3/4 inch.  Iron and pin in place.

Remove the table from the machine to make it easier to sew around the top of the bag.

Starting at the notch, sew an 1/8 of an inch away from the turned over edge.  Back stitch at the beginning and end.
Pin the longest pin you have through one end of approximately 24 inches of ribbon.
Thread the safety pin and ribbon through the open notched side of the bag.  Push the pin through until it exits the other side.
Pull the ribbon through until it is even on both ends and knot.

Pull the ribbon to test out it’s gathering skills.  Trim ribbon if necessary.

Two cute drawstring bags, perfect for carrying lunches or a variety of “special stuff.”

Leila Gardunia
{sewnbyleila.blogspot.com}

Cabbages and Roses Picnic Quilt

Hello fellow bakers!! My name is Angela from Quilting is my therapy and I am going to show you how to make the perfect picnic quilt. It features the beautiful new fabric, Northcote Range, by Cabbages and Roses. When designing this quilt, I knew that I wanted to combine bold piecing and scrappy borders to really make the fabrics shine! This quilt is fun, easy to make, and perfect for a tea party or a picnic. Enjoy!
(The stock number for the fabrics used is in parenthesis)
Focus fabrics:
Center focus fabric (Northcote Range 35203 11): 1 fat quarter
Corner focus fabrics (36203 16, 35203 23, 35201 11, 35203 11): 1/4 yd each

Border fabric:
6 Jelly Roll Strips (or six 2 1/2″ strips)  (35208 12)
Background fabric:
Bella Cream 1 yd

Border fabric:
Assorted scraps of 2 1/2″ wide pieces.
Cutting:
Center focus fabric- Cut one 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ square

Four corner focus fabrics:
Out of each fabric, cut a 7 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ square and a 7 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ rectangle

Out of the background fabric cut:
1 strip of 1 1/2″ x WOF (width of fabric)
2 strips 6 1/2″ x 31 1/2″
2 strips 6 1/2″ x 43 1/2″
Set aside 2 of the jelly roll strips. Sub-cut the remaining jelly roll strips into:
4 strips 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″
4 strips 2 1/2″ x 9″
6 strips 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″
2 strips 2 1/2″ x 13 1/2″
Keeping the different size strips in different piles to keep organized.
Piecing
Now we are ready to start piecing the quilt!
Sew a 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ strip of the red border fabric to the top and bottom of the center focus fabric square. Press toward the border.
Sew a 2 1/2″ x 13 1/2″ strip to each side of the same square and press toward the border fabric. Set block aside for now.
Sew a jelly roll strip to each side of the 1 1/2″ x WOF strip of background material. Press toward the darker fabrics.
Carefully sub-cut the strip into four 9 1/2″ segments. The blocks should measure 5 1/2″ x 9 1/2″. Set aside for now.
Sew a 2 1/2″ x 9″ border piece to the long side of a 7 1/2″ x 9″ block of one of the corner focus fabric. Press toward the border fabric.
With the border piece on the top, carefully cut the block in half lengthwise. You will have 2 pieces that measure 4 1/2″ x 9 1/2″.

Set aside and repeat with the other 3 focus fabrics.
Take a 7 1/2″ square of one of the focus fabrics and sew a 2 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ strip of border fabric to the top. Press towards the border.
Then sew a 2 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ piece of border fabric to the left side of the block. Press towards the border fabric.
Repeat with the other 3 focus fabrics.
Now it’s time to assemble the center of the quilt. Using the picture below for reference, layout the blocks as shown. All of the focus fabrics should be in the same corners.
Sew the blocks in the top row together in the order they are laid out.
Press carefully and repeat with the bottom row.
To assemble the center row, sew the 3 blocks on the right together to form one block, press the seams.

Repeat with the three blocks on the left.

Sew the three center blocks together.
Then sew the three rows together to form the center of the quilt. Press the seams.
The quilt should look like this:
Once the center is finished, it is time to add the cream borders to the quilt. Sew a 6 1/2″ x 31 1/2″ strip of cream fabric to each side of the quilt. Press toward the red fabric.
Sew a 6 1/2″ x 43 1/2″ strip of the cream border to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press toward the red border.
To add the scrappy border to the quilt:
Gather (or cut) strips of 2 1/2″ fabric of random lengths and prints. The scrappier, the better! (This is a great time to raid your scrap bin)
Sew the pieces along the short side to make a strip that is 43 1/2″ long. Make 6 long strips and sew them along the length to make two borders that measure 6 1/2″ x 43 1/2″.
Sew the two borders to the top and bottom of the quilt.
Repeat the above steps, making 6 strips that measure 2 1/2″ x 55 1/2″. Sew the strips together to make 2 borders of 3 strips. Sew to the top and bottom of the quilt.


Quilting:
I personally believe that the quilting is the most fun part! With all the open spaces on this quilt, let your quilting run free! In the scrappy border, I alternated between several different designs to give the borders a nice texture. In the cream border, I quilted a couple of feathers in the opposing corners and finished off the quilt with some more feather motifs!
Bind and enjoy!

One perfect picnic quilt!


Angela Walters
{quiltingismytherapy.com}

The Serendipity Quilt from MSQC!

Hi there! We are so thrilled to be on the Moda Bake Shop again to share another great idea for using a jelly roll! You know how much we LOVE the pre-cuts and we are beyond excited to share this project with you!!
So grab a jelly roll (any jelly roll will work! *wink) and let’s have some fun!
For more ideas and fun projects visit our Youtube channel! We have more tutorials and ideas in the works ALL THE TIME!
Have a great week!

All Framed Up Baby Quilt

  

Melissa Corry here from Happy Quilting.  I would like to introduce you to Jocelyn; she is the latest addition to our little Corry Clan.  Of course, with each new baby comes a new quilt. And Ruby is so perfect for a little baby girl quilt!!! I just love the colors and the beautiful prints!!  So here it is… All Framed Up!!  I hope you have as much fun making yours as I did making mine 🙂

If you have a special little one who needs a baby quilt of her own, you can click on over to Burgundy Buttons where you can get an All Framed Up Quilt Kit with everything you need to make this quilt at a stellar Burgundy Buttons price 🙂

If you have any questions about this tutorial, please email me at happyquiltingmelissa (at) gmail (dot) com.  I will answer them ASAP.  When you are finished, feel free to add a picture of your All Framed Up Baby Quilt to my Flickr Group.  I love to see and parade everyone’s individual completions 🙂


To make this quilt you will need :

2 Ruby Charm Packs
1 Yard of Moda Bella Solid White
1 1/4 of Backing Fabric – I used 55035 14
1/3 Yard of Binding Fabric – I used 55032 21
Several 5 x 5 squares of Heat -N – Bond

STEP 1 – CUTTING


There is not too much cutting of your charm packs needed.
   
Select 36 charm squares that will not be cut.  Pull out 6 charms and set them aside (I choose to pull out the polka-dot prints because I wanted my all of my applique to match 🙂

From the second charm pack, cut 32 charms down to 3 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ squares (once again, the 10 charms I pulled aside were all the polka-dot prints).

From the 16 charms you pulled aside, cut out (16) 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ squares.  (I cut out 2 squares from each of the 8 polka dot prints).

Set your remaining charms and larger pieces of charms aside to use for the applique 🙂  This is what you should have:

Let’s move to your Moda Bella Solid White yardage. Start by ironing your yardage and then cutting a nice straight edge.  From your yardage, cut the following strips: a 3″ x WOF Strip, a 7 1/2″ X WOF Strip, a 8 1/2″ x WOF Strip, and a 12 1/2″ x WOF Strip.  Trim the selvage edges off the top of all 4 strips.

Use the following 4 guides below to sub-cut your strips.  If you have trouble viewing the guide, click on the picture to make it larger.
    
For your 3″ x WOF Strip cut as follows:

 
For your 7 1/2″ x WOF Strip cut as follows:

 
For your 8 1/2″ x WOF Strip cut as follows:

 
For your 12 1/2″ x WOF Strip cut as follows:

You should have cut the following pieces…  

This is it for the cutting. Now you are ready to start putting your top together!!

STEP 2 – MAKING THE BLOCK BORDERS

Start by grabbing your pile of 5 x 5 charms and 1″ x 5″ white rectangles.  You will be adding a sashing strip to the side of each charm.  Lay a white rectangle along the side of your charm with right sides together (any side will do).  I don’t pin a lot in this project, but if you prefer to pin, please do 🙂  Sew 1/4″ along the edge.

You don’t want to cut after each one, that takes too much time. Chain stitch instead (when you are finished sewing the first, feed the second pair through and keep feeding through pairs until you have sewn a sashing on all 36 charms).

Clip the threads between each set and press the seam toward the charm square.

Repeat the process on the opposite side.  Lay a white rectangle along the opposite side of your charm square with right sides together. Chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the side of all 36 charm sets, clip your threads, and press toward the charm square.

Now they are pressed and ready to be sub-cut.  Each charm needs to be sub-cut in half both ways.  From side-to-side, measure in 3″ and cut. From top to bottom, measure in 2 1/2″ and cut.  You should now have 144 little 2 1/2″ x 3″ squares that are sashed on 1 side.

Start sewing them together. Align 2 squares with the sashings on the same sides. Lay your first square on top of your second with right sides together.  (You did this right if the sashing is on top of the print.) Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge.  Don’t pin, just align as you go.  Continue to chain stitch sets of 2 until you have used all of your squares.  Clip your threads and press.  You should now have 72 sets of 2.

We are going to turn those sets of 2 into sets of 4.  Same exact process.  Align two sets with right sides together, chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all your sets, clip your threads, and press.  You should now have 36 sets of 4.

And now we do it again one last time to turn sets of 4 into sets of 8. Align two sets with right sides together, chain stitch a 1/4″ seam along the edge of all your sets, clip your threads and press.  You should now have 18 sets of 8.

There is one last step to finish your borders.  You need to unpick one seam.  (I know it seems silly to unpick, but trust me, it is way faster to sew them this way and unpick 18 seams then to do them without chain stitching 🙂  So unpick along the outer sashing of the 3 square (see the arrow).

You should now have 18 rows of 3 that have sashings on both ends and 18 rows of 5 that do not have sashing on either end.  You can set your borders aside for a minute.  Way to go!!!

STEP 3 – MAKING THE BLOCK CENTERS

For each block center you will need (4) 3 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ charm squares, (2) 1″ x 3 3/4″ white rectangles, (3) 1″ x 7 1/2″ rectangles, and (2) 1″ x 8 1/2″ rectangles.  Lay them out as follows.  (the 8 1/2″ strips are along the top and bottom 🙂

Start by sewing your small center sashings to your top 2 charm squares.  Lay the sashings along the bottom of the charm squares with right sides together.  Once again, it isn’t necessary to pin.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge of the two squares, clip your threads, and press.

Now you can sew your top sashed charms to your bottom charms. Lay the top charm square onto your bottom with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edges, clip your threads, and press.

Now that your charm columns are done, you can sew the sashings to the sides of them.  Lay your sashings onto your charm columns as follows.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the three edges, clip your threads, and press.

Now you can sew the 2 charm columns together.  This time it is important to pin so that you can make sure you align your center seam.  Once it is pinned, sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge and then clip your threads and press.

Lastly, you just have to add the top and the bottom sashings.  Lay the sashings along the top and bottom of the block with right sides together.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the edge of the top and bottom, clip your threads and press.

Now your block center is done.  Repeat this step to make another 7 block centers. You will have 8 block centers total 🙂
STEP 4 – FINISHING YOUR BLOCKS 

You are ready to use your block centers and borders to finish the blocks.  Start with a block center, 2 short borders, and 2 long borders.  Lay them out as follows. 

We’ll start by sewing on the top and the bottom borders.  Lay the top and bottom border with right sides together along the top and bottom edge of the block center.  Make sure to pin and align your seams where the 4 arrows designate.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge, clip your threads, and press.

And now… you guessed it, we are going to do the sides.  Lay your side borders with right sides together along the sides of the block center.  Once again, make sure to align your seams where the arrows indicate.  Sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge, clip your threads and press.

Now your block is completed!!!  Yippee Skippee!!  Repeat this process with the other 7 block centers so you have a total of 8 completed blocks.

Grab your 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ white square and use your remaining 4 borders to finish the block in the same manner.  You will use the exact same process of adding the top and bottom first, followed by the sides.

STEP 5 – ADDING APPLIQUE TO THE CENTER BLOCK


To give this quilt a super adorable and personalized look, I added applique to the center block.  This is optional.  Grab your leftover (mine are polka-dot) charm squares that you set aside at the beginning. Fuse your pre-cut squares of heat-n-bond to the wrong side of your charm square.  Now trace your letters onto the paper side of the heat-n-bond.  Remember, to do your letters backwards!!!!  (You can make your own letter templates by printing the name you’d like in any word program and then cutting out the letters.) Cut out your letters and wha-la!!  You have applique letters.  You can add flowers and such if you’d prefer.

Once you have your entire applique cut out, you are ready to add it to your block.  Play with the arrangement in the center block until you get something that is pleasing to you.  (I find it best to do this on your ironing board so you don’t have to move it once you get it where you like.)  Once you have it set, go ahead and fuse your Heat-N-Bonded appliques to your center square.

Lastly, secure your applique by stitching around it.  You can do any type of secure stitch you like.  I chose to do a blanket stitch in white 🙂

STEP 6 – PIECING THE QUILT TOP

Now that you have all of your blocks done, you are ready to piece the quilt top together.  Grab your 9 blocks, the (16) 1 1/2″ squares and and the (24) 1 1/2″ x 12 1/2″ rectangles and lay them out as follows.  Go ahead and play around with your layout until you get a nice even mix of colors and it is pleasing to the eye. A great way to see this is to take a picture of it and then look at it on the computer screen, it really helps to give you a good overall look.

Start sewing your top together.  I like to do this one row at a time; it makes it easier not to change my layout on accident.  I start with the sashing rows.  Using a 1/4″ seam, sew the squares onto the edges of your first piece of sashing in your first row.  Continue to add on to the row.  Add another sashing followed by another square etc. until you have sewn the entire row together.  Once the row is all sewn together, go ahead and press it.  Repeat for all 4 of your sashing rows.

Now that your sashing rows are sewn together, you can move onto your block rows.  This is done with the same process.  Start by sewing a sashing onto each side of your first block.  Then add a block, followed by a sashing, followed by a block etc. until you have sewn together the entire row.  Press it and repeat the process for the other 2 block rows.

Your quilt top should look like this.  You with me?  Almost done!!!

We are going to sew the sashings rows onto the block rows.  Same process, just on a larger scale. Lay your sashing row onto the top of your block row with right sides together.  Make sure to pin your seams to match where the arrows indicate.  Your bottom row will have a sashing pinned along the top and the bottom. Sew a 1/4″ seam along your pinned edges, clip your threads and press.

Sew the 3 rows together.  Start by laying your bottom row onto your center row with right sides together.  Make sure to match your seams along those same points.  Pin your entire edge, sew a 1/4″ seam along the pinned edge, clip your threads, and press.  Now just repeat the same process laying your top row onto your now sewn together center and bottom row.  Pin, Sew, Clip, and Press!!

And your top is complete!!!  Don’t you just love it!!!  It is so adorable!!!

STEP 7 – FINISHING UP

Quilt and bind.  I know, I make it sound so easy.  But it is a great size to start on if you are doing free motion quilting for the first time.   I choose to quilt mine in an all-over free motion daisy and leaves design.  There are tons and tons of tutorials out there on free motion quilting.  Just Google it and practice 🙂 . 
Cut your binding fabric into four 2 1/2″ x WOF strips to make your binding roll.  If you have never done a binding before there is a great tutorial here on how to bind {modabakeshop.com/2010/08/binding-with-jelly-roll.html}  


One adorable All Framed Up Quilt measuring approx. 40″ x 40″.

Perfectly Personalized for your little Precious one!!!

Melissa Corry

Spiders and Webs Quilt



Hi!  My name is Heidi from Boys, Buttons, and Butterflies.   I grew up in a household that didn’t celebrate Halloween or go trick-or-treating, so I have always been intrigued by the holiday.  Since I first took my oldest son trick-or-treating fourteen years ago, I have wanted to take Halloween more seriously.

This fall, I fell in love with Trick-or-Treat by Deb Strain.  I couldn’t resist the urge to make a simple quilt with this fabric!

1 jelly roll (Trick or Treat by Deb Strain)
4.5 yards of Moda Marble (purple)
Acrylic ruler that includes a 60 degree angle
Basic quilting supplies
Variegated thread (purple/pink/gray tones)

Unroll and sort the strips by color.  Separate the orange candy corn to the side for the binding.

Divide the rest of the strips into sets of four using the white, black, and orange.

Sort the four colors in different orders. I used the green as my guide for all the groupings. Sometimes it was first, sometimes second, and so on! When you have run out of green (because you will!), sort the rest of the strips in orange, black, and white colors to make more collections of four.

Sew each strip with 1/4 inch seam.  Press.  You will have several lovely rectangles!!

Now it is time to meet your acrylic ruler and it’s 60 degree angle markings.  The arrows are on the lines that you will line up your fabric top edge with.

The line that is marked with the 60 degree number along the top edge of your rectangle.

Make your first cut at the left edge of your strips laid out lengthwise.

After the first cut, pivot your ruler and line the rule with top ledge with the 60 degree angle line going the other direction to make a triangle.

Continue down the fabric making 62 total triangles with ALL of the stripped rectangles.

Cut four 8.5 inch strips from the width of the Moda Marble (purple).  Then cut 22 triangles using the 60 degree angle exactly the same way you did for the strip triangles.

Using the photo below, layout your triangles to make hexagon shapes with the strip pieced triangles and purple triangles in between.   There are nine complete hexagons and two incomplete hexagons.  Arrange the triangles so that the green is distributed throughout each hexagon and that the colors alternate rows.  Don’t stress too much about it.  I did and it wasn’t worth it!!!  If you are worried, just follow the order I have below!

Piece the triangles together.  

You will have six vertical strips.

Press the seams.  Clean up the dog ears and snip the center where the three triangles meet to eliminate bulkiness when piecing the strips.

Pin the strips together and sew.

Pin each seam after aligning to ensure the finished seams will match up.

Fold them out and press.

Cut two 3 x 60 inch pieces and two 3 x 50 inch pieces from the length of the purple Moda Marble for sashing.

There is an imaginary line that you will make across the top and bottom of your quilt.  Use the tips of the hexagons on the end as your guide.

Use the sashing along that imaginary line as a guide and then place your ruler at the edge to trim the “dog ears” to ensure a straight cut across the quilt.

Piece sashing to all four sides.

Backing.  Cut four pieces of Moda Marble (purple) for the backing in the following measurements:

  • 32 x 60 inches
  • 18 x 40 inches
  • 3 x 18 inches
  • 3 x 17 inches

Piece the backing following this diagram.  The orange hexagon and purple triangles represent the leftover strip pieced triangles and purple triangles to make one final “web”.

Quilt.   I love to spray baste my cotton batting and then get to work.

I set out to do stitch in the ditch for the webs and free motion quilting with spiders in the purple background, but when I set up my machine to start and had the foot over the webs, I instantly thought of the movie Coraline.

There is a part where Coraline is trapped in a web and it seems to stretch into a spiral.  The quilting was meant to be and I am really pleased with the primitive spirals around jarring color changes and straight lines.

I then ditched my plans for spiders because the fabric was already too busy. I decided to quilt very symmetrical triangles in the purple areas.  I left an open area in each triangle center.

Variegated thread seemed the best choice for the webs and a complementary purple for the Moda Marble.  It really detracted the fact that it was crossing white fabrics all the way to black. I definitely see myself using this more in the future.

I also used the variegated thread in the bobbin and it made the backing more interesting.

Binding.  Don’t forget that you saved the six candy corn strips!!  Piece each strip together to make one long strip of my favorite candies!

They are perfect fit for the 1 1/4 inch Quilt Binding Tip for my machine.  However, no need for the machine.  Don’t fear…you can just fold it in half and iron it!  I have done it without any difficulties for many years until I bought this gadget!

I like to sew the binding by machine to the front of my quilt matching the raw edges of the binding and the quilt.  I then hand sewing the folded edge to the back.  I was really pleased with the idea of alternating the background colors of black, white and orange.  They blend seamlessly and are interesting at the same time.

1 Halloween Quilt  50 x 60 inches.

Great for a picnic or hayride.  I actually plan on using it as a tablecloth for the celebrations.  It fits my kitchen table wonderfully!

If you like this quilt tutorial, come join Button and me over at my blog, Boys, Buttons, and Butterflies to see some other quilts and craft tutorials while I manage four boys. Baby Button and I are always up to no good most days while the rest of the boys are at school!

Thanks for stopping by today, I hope you enjoy this tutorial!
Any questions?  Email me at boysbuttonsandbutterflies@gmail.com

Heidi Grohs
{boysbuttonsandbutterflies.blogspot.com}

A Charming Maze Quilt



Hi, it is Kristy from HandmadeRetro back with another Moda Bakeshop recipe!

This quilt  has been a long time coming… the fabric was lost in the mail and then the replacement package got caught up with the recent mail delays between the US and Australia. So I have a heap of satisfaction to bring you this postage-stamp-style maze quilt!

2x charm packs of Little Apples by Aneela Hooey (because of the mail mix-up I have a layer cake pictured but two charm packs are all that are required for the recipe)

2 yards of Etchings Slate for maze path and binding

2 yards for border (Little Apples Aqua 18515 13)

5 yards for backing (Little Apples Lollipop 18510 11)










Step One: Cutting the fabric
From the charm squares
Cut each of the charm squares into 4 2.5″ squares
You will also need to cut an extra 11 2.5″ squares from a combination of the backing and border fabric

From the Solid fabric:
Cut 20 2.5″ strips, sub cut these into 2.5″ squares

Cut another 6 2.5″ strips and set these aside for the binding


From the border fabric (Little Apples Aqua)
Cut 4 strips down the length of the fabric 9.5″ wide and 65″ long

Step Two: Construct the maze.
The maze section of the quilt is made up of 9 uneven sections. Each block is constructed in the same manner and diagrams indicate which block goes where in the centre panel.

Construct each of the nine blocks one at a time.
I have gone through the step-by-step construction of a single block below. Each of the nine blocks will be constructed in the same way so I am not going to picture all the steps each time. The process of the block construction is pictured below but remember to refer to the individual block pictures/diagrams for colour placement.


Some tips to keep everything organised.
– Sew a small scrap of fabric to the first seam of each row to mark the block and the row number (this will also orient the left side of the block).
– Work with one block at a time. Sew one square to the right of the last added to build the row, chain piecing. 

1. Layout the 2.5″ squares using the diagram or photo to assist you. If using the diagram, the white squares refer to the solid (maze path) and the blue/grey squares are the print (maze wall).

2. Get ready to start sewing. To keep everything in order I paired the first square in each row by placing square two face down on the top of square one. I then stacked these pairs with the pair for the bottom row on the bottom of the stack. If using the row markers (see below) place these between the pairs.

3. Stack the remaining squares into piles for each row. You can see in this picture I started to stack them by placing the square on the right of the block on the bottom and stacking each square to the left on top. I was left with 10 stacks (11 for blocks 7-9).

4. Chain piece the first pairs of the rows, separating with the markers if you are using them.

5. Leaving the squares joined, take the next square to the right for each row. Stack with the square for row 10 (11) on the bottom and the square for row 1 on the top to get ready to piece. Chain piece these to square 2.

6. Continue until all squares are added, you will have a block that has all the rows sewn together and these joined with threads.

7. Working with two rows at a time, trim the threads between the rows and press all seams in the direction of the arrows. I leave the row markers on at this stage.

8. Nest seams and sew rows together, being careful to keep the row markers free.

9. Repeat with remaining rows, adding pairs of rows to the block as you go.

10. Blocks 1-6 will be 7 squares by 10 squares, blocks 7-9 will be 7 squares by 11 squares.

11. Press row seams to the bottom of the even numbered blocks and to the top of the odd numbered blocks. Trim the row markers off.

Individual Block Layouts





Constructing the Centre Panel
Sew the blocks together in rows, nesting seams again.  Press seams to the right in row 1 and 3 and the left in row 2.

Sew the rows together, matching nested seams. Press seams to the bottom of the panel.

Adding the Borders
Measure the panel vertically through the middle of the quilt. Trim two of the border strips to this measurement.  Find the centre of the border strips and panels by folding in half and marking with pins. Match centres and edges. Pin, sew, press seam towards the border.

Measure the quilt horizontally through the middle of the quilt. Trim the two remaining border strips to this measurement. Find the centre of the border strips and the quilt top by folding in half and marking with pins. Match Centres and edges. Pin, sew, press seam towards the border.

Prepare the Backing
I prepared my backing with a vertical join. I cut the backing fabric in half and removed selvedges and joined. See this useful tutorial here for how to match up prints.


Baste, quilt and bind
I basted in the ‘hedge’ to leave the ‘path’ free for my chosen quilting design.



I quilted my top on my domestic machine 1/4″ inside the ‘path’ with my walking foot. If you start from the beginning or ending square and follow around you will quilt the entire path (except for a small section you will need to do separately using the same technique.

I straight line quilted the border, pacing the lines 3/4″. I marked the corners with a Hera marker to make identifying the spot to turn a little easier.

One 60″x80″ quilt.

Kristy
{HandmadeRetro}

Car Organizer

Don’t leave home without this handy car organizer.


8 Fat Quarters
one piece of thin batting 26″ x 22″
a water soluble pen

Take 2 fat quarters: one for the front and one for the back of the organizer. You want your largest fat quarter for the back of your organizer. Sandwich them with the batting. Make sure that the fat quarters are lined up and straight.

Pin your pieces together. Use lots of pins to be sure that the fabrics don’t slip around.

Hand baste your pieces together using long stitches. These will be pulled out once your project is finished.

Cutting your pockets: You have 2 large (brown) and 2 smaller (a blue and a green) pockets and 1 extra long pocket (orange). Take 4 fat quarters (2 brown, 1 blue and 1 green) and cut a 12″ x 14″ rectangle from each.


Here are your 4 pockets ready to be assembled.

Take your blue and green rectangle and fold them with the rights sides together. You now have a folded rectangle that measures 12″ x 7″.

Sew along the short side (7″) using a 1/4″ seam. Sew both 7″ sides on the blue rectangle and on the green rectangle.

Both sides are sewn.

Turn right side out and press.

Take your brown 12″ x 14″ rectangles and fold them the long way, so you have rectangles measuring 14″ x 6″.

Sew the 6″ edges using 1/4″ seam. Do this to both brown rectangles.

Both edges are sewn.

Turn them right side are out. Press both pieces.

Cut your orange fat quarter 12″ x 21″.  Fold in half lengthwise. It should measure 21″ x 6″. Sew both short edges using a 1/4″ seam. Turn right side out and press.

Measure to find the center of the pocket. Mark with a pin at the top edge and at the bottom raw edge. Make about 1″ tucks in the four spots shown. The finished length should be 14″.

With your water soluble pen, draw a line on your background piece that is 1 1/4″ from the bottom edge.

Center your orange pocket on your background piece. You should have 2″ on either side of your pocket. Line up the bottom of the pocket raw edge with the drawn line. Pin in place.

Stitch 1/4″ from raw edge. Back stitch at the beginning and end.

Fold pocket back onto background (this hides your seam). Use a ruler to line up your center pins and draw a straight line down the center of the orange pocket. Pin in place.

Sew on the drawn line. Make sure to backstitch when you begin and end. Remove pins.

Sew 1/8″ from your edges on both sides. Your pocket is now finished.

Take one of the brown pieces for the pockets. Make about a 1″ tuck on the raw edge. Pin the tuck in place. Do the same to the other side. Your brown pocket should measure 9″ wide.

On the green piece for the pocket, make your 1″ tucks on the raw edge. Pin in place. Do tucks on both sides. The green pocket should measure 6″ wide once you have the tucks pinned.

Draw a line all the way across the front, 7 1/2″ from the bottom raw edge of the organizer front with your water soluble pen.


Place your pockets as shown. Line up the raw edge of the pockets on the drawn line. Place the pockets so they are approximately 1 1/4″ from side organizer edges and about 1″ apart. Pin in place.

Sew in place using a 1/4″ seam. Back stitching at the beginning and end.

Fold the pockets back onto the background as shown. This hides your raw edge seams.

Sew down the side edges on both green and brown pockets an 1/8″ from the edge.

Make tucks in the blue pocket same as the green pocket. The finished width should measure 6″. Make tucks in the brown pocket same as the other one with the finished width being 9″.

NOTE: the bottom edges of the blue and brown pockets are at different levels.

With your ruler and water soluble pen, draw a straight line 7 1/2″ from the top edge of the organizer. Line up the raw edges of the blue pocket, pin in place.

Draw a line 6 1/2″ from the top organizer edge. This is for the brown pocket. Pin the brown pocket in place lining up the raw edge of the pocket to the drawn line. Leaving an 1″ in between the pockets and 1 1/4″ on the sides.

Sew the pockets in place using 1/4″ seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Flip the pockets back onto the background and pin in place. Measure to be sure that the edges of the pockets are straight. Leave 1 1/4″ from the side of the organizer.

Sew down the edges with an 1/8″ allowance.

Your pockets are all done. You are now ready to bind your organizer.

From the last brown fat quarter, cut 4 – 2 1/4″ strips. Prepare you binding.

Sew your binding in place using a 1/4″ seam.

Your binding is all sewn on. Remove your basting stitches at this point. Remove all pins.

Trim the excess batting from the edges. Be careful not to cut into the binding.

Hand or machine stitch your binding in place.

From the remaining brown fat quarter, cut 2 – 3″ strips. These are for your ties.

Fold in half as shown. Lightly press.

Sew down the one short edge and the long side using 1/4″ seam. Leave one end open so you can turn your tie right side out.

Turn your ties right side out and press.

Sew the ties raw edge in place at an angle as shown on the top corner of the organizer, .

Fold the tie back and stitch 1/4″ from the folded edge. This covers your raw edge and gives more stability to your tie. Repeat on the other side.

Tie your organizer to the back of the driver or passenger’s seat. Fill with items for your child and you are ready to go.

Another option is to use the organizer pockets to hold baby products next to your baby’s changing table. Or, hang it near your child’s bed so they can keep their books and personal items nearby.


8 fat quarters will make one organizer.

Ribbon Candy Quilt Company
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