Sassy Lattice Pillow

Hi, I’m Stacey and I blog over at The Tilted Quilt ~ I’m thrilled today to share with you my first project for the Moda Bake Shop, a quick pillow that’s sure to add a little sass to any room. I think Shades of Black will be the “Little Black Dress” of fabrics this year – there are so many great black, white and gray prints in this collection, you will find a million uses for them. I wanted this pillow to have a pop as well, so I chose a high contrasting pink solid to enhance the lattice effect of the pattern. I hope you enjoy!

1 charm pack in Shades of Black by Me and My Sister Designs

3/4 yard Bella Solids in Peony (updated)
1/2 yard coordinating black print from Shades of Black
18 x 18″ square muslin or neutral colored fabric (will not be seen)
18 x 18″ square of batting
18″ pillow form

1. Sort the charm pack by color – you will need 8 charms from white prints and 12 charms from black prints.  Cut 12 – 5″ squares from the solid pink fabric.

2. Pair a white charm and a pink charm, right sides together.

3. Make 2 Half-Square Triangles (HST) by sewing on 1/4″ on either side of the diagonal.  Each pair of charms will result in 2 –
4 1/2″ HST.  Sew 4 pairs of white/pink charms to create 8 HST.  Trim to 4″.

4. Trim 8 black charms to 4″ square. Pair a pink/white HST with a black charm square.  Draw a line across the diagonal as shown – sew directly on the line.  
5.  Next, trim away 1/4″ past the sewn line to create Unit A.  This can be tricky – you want the remaining portion exactly as shown below – with the white quadrant along the top of the unit and the pink along the right hand side.  Layout is important here.  Make 8 Unit A blocks.

 6.  To create Unit B, follow the same process as above – beginning with 4 black charms and 4 white charms to create 8 black/white HST’s.  Trim to 4″ and match with a trimmed pink charm to create 8 Unit B blocks.

7.  Now, it is time to lay turn your units into blocks. Arrange 2 Unit A’s and 2 Unit B’s as shown. Join together to create a block.
8. Create 4 – 4 unit blocks.

9.  Once your center is sewn together – add borders.  For the first border, from the pink solid, cut 2 – 2″ strips by the width of fabric. Add to the top and bottom first, then the sides.  For the outer border, cut 2 –  1″ strips by the width of fabric from the backing fabric.  Add them in the same manner as the first border. 
The finished pillow top should be 18″ x 18″.

10.  Create a quilt sandwich with the pillow top, batting and a layer of muslin or neutral solid.

11.  Quilt as desired – I opted for an angular design throughout to complement the blocks.

12.  For the backing fabric, cut 2 rectangles 18″x 14″. On each of the rectangles, fold one long edge back 1/4″ and then another 1/4″ and topstitch along the folded edge.

Lay the pillow top facing up, then lay one piece of backing facing down with the folded side to the left, and then the second backing fabric facing down, with the folded side to the right.

13.  Stitch 1/4″ around the entire pillow and flip right side out.  Insert pillow form. Enjoy!

One 18″ square pillow

Free Tools to Teach Children How to Sew

Oda May here! I’m thrilled to share with you a new resource from American Patchwork & Quilting that goes along with their 1 Million Pillowcase Challenge.  The editors at APQ are passionate about sharing the joy of sewing and they have Introduced Free Tools and patterns to teach children how to sew.

Teaching children how to sew provides valuable life skills, fosters creativity, and boosts self-esteem, says Jennifer Keltner, executive editor of American Patchwork & Quilting. “Participating in the 1 Million Pillowcase Challenge is a great way to introduce children to the concept of giving back,” she says. “Sewing a pillowcase for charity teaches a child compassion and empathy, all while having fun and learning to sew!”

I learned to sew as a child and what was once just a useful skill became a joyful hobby that has kept my hands busy throughout my adult life. Share your own loving of sewing with the children in your family or your community. APQ’s Teaching Tools are a great resource to get started. Click 
{here} for free printouts and patterns.

Oink a Doodle Moo (x) times Two..or Three

Hello from Jo and Kelli at Jo’s Country Junction.  If you’ve read our blog, you know that we are farm gals and our guys are farmers. When we saw Moda’s new line “Oink a Doodle Moo”, we just knew we had to design something using it.  We live, breathe, eat and sleep farming…we might as well sew it too!  We ended up with not one, not two, but THREE baby quilts all from one jelly roll!! Isn’t that neat? After you read the tutorial, you’ll want to come over to our blog and sign up for a chance to win a free jelly roll to help you get started on your own set of quilts.  Read on and we’ll show how to make them.

Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #1 Woven Edge
Fabric Requirements:
-24 Jelly Roll Strips (Blocks)
-1/2 yard solid Red (Blocks)
-3/4 yard solid Yellow (Inner Border/Binding)
-1 yard Center Background (Center)
-1//4 yard cow print (Corner Blocks)
-2+ yards backing  We used scraps and added a strip to the back making it wide enough.
Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #2 Scrappy Bear Paw Stars
Fabric Requirements:
-1 Panel Set
-5 Red Jelly Roll strips (12.5” total of each print)
-5 Blue Jelly Roll strips (10” total of each print)
-5 Green Jelly Roll strips (20” total of each print)
-20 assorted Jelly Roll strips (3.5” total of each print)
-1 1/4  yard white (blocks and outer border)
-¾ yards red print (panel borders)
-1/2 yard (binding)
-2+ yards Backing We used scraps and added a strip to the back making it wide enough.

Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #3 Scrappy with PanelsFabric Requirements:
-Remaining Jelly Roll Strips
-1 Panel + 2 remaining Panels from previous quilt
1/2 yard (binding)-2 yards Backing

Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #1 Woven Edge Note: WOF=width of fabric  All seams are 1/4″ unless noted.

1.  From each jelly roll strip, cut 2-6 1/2” rectangles and 1-2 1/2” square.
2.  From the solid red, cut 3-2 1/2” strips
                -Subcut into 48-2 1/2” red squares.
3.  From the solid red, cut 1-4 1/2” strip.
                -Subcut into 4-4 1/2” squares.
4.  From the solid yellow, cut 4-1 1/2” strips.
                -Subcut 2 strips to 34 1/2” long and 2 strips to 36 1/2” long.
5.  From the solid yellow, cut 5-2 1/2” strips to be used for binding.
6.  From printed center fabric, cut a square 34 1/2” square.
7.  From cow print, cut 1-6 1/2” strip.
                -Subcut into 4-6 1/2” squares.
8.  From the remainder of the cow print 6 1/2” strip, cut 4-2 1/2” squares.

Sewing Blocks:
1.  To make 1 woven block, you will need 2 matching 6 1/2” rectangles, the matching 2 1/2” square, and 2 red 2 1/2” squares.

2.  Using the 2 1/2” squares, connect 1 printed square to 1 red square.  Press to the red square.
3.  Connect the second red square to the printed square.  Press to the red square.

4.  With right sides together, connect 1 pieced rectangle to a printed rectangle on the long side.  Press to the printed rectangle.  Repeat with the second printed rectangle.

5.  Repeat to make a total of 24 blocks.6.  To make the cow print corner blocks, place a red 4 1/2” square in the corner of a 6 1/2” cow print square with right sides together.

7.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner of the red square.  Trim seam to approximately ¼” on the outside of the block.  Press to the red triangle. To create this.

8.  Place a cow print 2 1/2” square in the same corner with right sides together.
9.  Sew diagonally from corner to corner.  Trim seam to 1/4″ on the outside of the block.  Press to the cow print triangle.  To create this.

10.  With right sides together, sew the 34 1/2” yellow 1 
1/2” strips to opposite sides of the 34 1/2” center square of fabric.  Press to the yellow border.
11.  Add the 36 1/2” yellow strips to the remaining opposite sides of the center fabric.  Press to the yellow fabric.
12.  Join the 24 woven blocks into 4 sets of 6 blocks.

13.  Assemble the quilt as shown.

14.  Quilt and bind using the 5-2 
1/2” solid yellow strips.
Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #2 Scrappy Stars 
1.  From the panel, trim 4 blocks to 10 1/2” square.
2.  From each of the red jelly roll strips, cut 5-2 1/2” squares.
3.  From each of the blue jelly roll strips, cut 4-2.5” squares.
4.  From each of the green jelly roll strips, cut 8-2 1/2” squares.
5.  From each of the assorted jelly roll strips, cut a 3.5” rectangles from each strip.
6.  From the white fabric, cut 15-2 1/2” strips.
                -Subcut 4 strips to yield a total of 20-6 1/2” x 2 1/2” rectangles.
                -Subcut 2 strips to yield a total of 20-2 1/2” squares.
                -Subcut 2 strips to yield a total of 20-2 1/2” x 3 1/2” rectangles.
                -Save 5 strips for outer border
7.  From the white fabric, cut 5-2” x WOF strips.
8.  From the printed red fabric, cut a total of 7-2 1/2” x WOF strips.  I fussy cut the printed fabric so that it looked like the tractors and other farm vehicles were “driving” around each of the panel blocks.
                -Subcut 3 strips to yield 8-2 1/2” x 10 1/2” strips.
                -Subcut 4 strips to yield 8-2 1/2” x 14 1/2” strips.
9.  From the binding fabric, cut 5-2 1/2” x WOF strips.
Sewing Blocks:
1.  To make the half-square triangles (star points), pair a white 3 1/2” strip with a 3.5” printed strip.  Place pieces right sides together.  Using an easy angle ruler, cut each set to yield 2 half square triangles.  Sew on the diagonal and press to the printed fabric.  If you don’t know how to use an easy angle ruler follow this link for instructions.

2.  Assemble each of the star blocks as shown.  Use the same green, red, and blue squares throughout each of the individual blocks.  Use the half-square triangles randomly through each of the blocks.

3.  With right sides together, stitch the 2 1/2” x 10 1/2” to opposite sides of each of the 4 panel blocks.  Press to the red border.4.  Attach the 2 1/2” x 14 1/2” rectangles to the remaining sides of each of the 4 panel blocks.  Again, press to the red border.

5.  Assemble the quilt as shown below.

6.  Sew the remaining 2 1/2″ white strips together.  Sew to the outside for a border.

7.  Quilt as desired and bind with the 5-2 1/2” x WOF strips.

Oink-A-Doodle-Moo:  #3 Scrappy with PanelsCutting:
1.  Using the remaining Jelly Roll strips, cut a total of 161- 2.5” squares.
2.  Trim each of the panel blocks to 10.5”
3.  Cut 5-2.5” strips from the binding fabric.
Sewing Blocks:
1.  Sew the panels and squares into the following units.

Make four.

Make four.

Make two.

Make one.

2.  Assemble the units as shown.  Make one.

Make one.

Make one.

3.  Sew the newly created units together to form the top.

4.  Quilt and bind as desired.

THREE baby quilts…Yes, three from one jelly roll.

Quilt #1 with the woven blocks measures 48 1/2″ x 48 1/2″

Quilt #2 with the scrappy stars measures 44 1/2″ x 44 1/2″

Quilt #3 with the panel pieces measures  42″ x 42″

Don’t forget to come up to Jo’s Country Junction to sign up to win your own jelly roll.

Jo and Kelli Kramer

Jumping Jacks Quilt

Once upon a time there were five happy little blocks with happy red centers and happy red diamonds at their corners. They stood out from their neighbors, and were nicknamed “jumping jacks.”

Finished size is 59.5 x 59.5″ Fabrics used are Happy-Go-Lucky by Bonnie & Camille

  • One jelly roll (Forty 2.5″ x WOF strips)
  • 1-3/4 yd neutral fabric (penny gray)
  • 3/4 yds red fabric (penny red)
  • 3/4 yds border fabric (mum red)
  • 2/3 yds binding fabric (garden navy)
  • 64 x 64″ cotton batting 
  • 4 yds back fabric (bella solid in scarlet)

You will need 36 of the 40 jelly roll strips. Sub-cut each strip into two 2.5 x 5″ strips, and two 2.5 x 9″ strips.

From the [penny gray] neutral fabric, you will need to cut the following:

  • Four strips 5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 5 x 5″ squares, eight per strip until you have 31 total. 
  • Six strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 9″ strips, four per strip until you have 24 total.
  • Eight strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 2.5″ squares, sixteen per strip until you have 128.

From the red fabric, you will need to cut the following: 

  • One strip 5″ x WOF. Sub-cut the strip into 5 x 5″ squares until you have 5.
  • Five strips 2.5″ x WOF. Sub-cut each strip into 2.5 x 2.5″ squares, sixteen per strip until you have 80. 

Referring to the picture below, organize all fabric into two piles:

  • Pile one: 31 jelly roll strips with the [penny gray] neutral blocks/strips.
  • Pile two: 5 remaining jelly roll strips with the red blocks. 

Next, use a pen and ruler to mark a diagonal line on the back of all 2.5 x 2.5″ neutral and red squares.

*Use 1/4″ seam allowance for all sewing unless otherwise stated. “Jumping Jacks” Blocks: From “pile two,” you will need one red 5″ block and one sub-cut jelly roll strip (two 2.5 x 5″ strips and two 2.5 x 9.5″ strips). Attach the 2.5 x 5″ strips to the top and bottom-sides as indicated below. Press the seams.


Sew the 2.5 x 9″ strips to the sides and press the seams. Repeat to make five red-centered (“jumping jacks”) blocks.

Repeat with the neutral 5″ blocks and their (31) sub-cut jelly roll strips from “pile one.”  Arrange ALL blocks into six rows with six blocks per row. Once the arrangement is to your liking, retrieve the marked 2.5 x 2.5″ RED squares only.  Snowball Blocks:  Place one red 2.5 x 2.5″ square in each corner of the red-centered (“jumping jacks”) blocks. Place more in the corners of neighboring blocks that touch a “jumping jacks” block; the marked lines will form a diamond shape in each corner. Pin each red block firmly in place.


Before you begin stitching these blocks in place, you may also want to take a picture (or otherwise notate) your block arrangement so you won’t forget where anything goes. I usually just snap a picture with my phone’s camera.

Pin [penny gray] neutral 2.5 x 2.5″ squares in any corners that do not have a red one. Make sure the marked lines are oriented as indicated below (to form diamonds at the corners with neighboring blocks) and pin in place.

Stitch along the marked lines pinned in each corner.

Trim 1/4″ seam allowance at each corner. Open and press to form the finished snowball block.

Arrange all snowball blocks back into their designated places.

Sew the quilt-top in place by sewing the blocks into rows, then the rows together–lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand. Press the quilt-top.

Retrieve the 2.5 x 9″ [penny gray] neutral strips and four 2.5 x 2.5″ squares. “Frame” the quilt with one neutral border strip next to each outside block with a 2.5 x 2.5″ square in each corners.  NOTE: The border is broken up into strips to accommodate the completion of any red diamonds in the corners of “jumping jacks” blocks that may be on the outside of the quilt-top arrangement.

Finish any incomplete red diamonds by pinning red 2.5 x 2.5″ squares (right sides together) onto the neutral border strips where necessary.

Stitch along the marked lines.

Trim 1/4″ seam allowance; open and press.

Sew the border strips together in order (omitting the 2.5 x 2.5″ corner blocks of the border) and add to the top and bottom of the quilt-top first.

Repeat to add the borders to the sides, this time including the 2.5 x 2.5″ border blocks at the beginning and end of each strip.  Now we are going to add a second border. You will need the border fabric cut into six strips 4″ x WOF. Piece together 1-1/2 strips per side.

Add the top and bottom border pieces first; add the sides and square up before basting onto your batting and back fabric.

Be sure to insert safety pins to prevent the layers from shifting during the quilting process.

Quilt as desired. I did some freemotion squiggles.

After the quilting is completed, trim away the batting and back fabric. Square up the quilt.

Vanessa's Jumping Jacks quilt tutorial

Bind as desired. I cut seven strips 2.5″ x WOF and pieced on the bias.

 One very happy 59.5 x 59.5″ lap quilt.

Vanessa's Jumping Jacks quilt tutorial
Vanessa's Jumping Jacks quilt tutorial

Vanessa's Jumping Jacks quilt tutorial

Vanessa Goertzen

UPDATED: 1/29/2014

Patchwork Life Quilt

Hi, I’m Sarah Price from It’s Sew Emma, and I’m really glad to share with you my first pattern on Moda Bake Shop. This quilt is all about warmth and comfort, a simple design that is captivating in rich colors. I hope you enjoy it! Let’s get started.

If you enjoy my version using Pheasant Hill, we have some quilt kits ready to go at Fat Quarter Shop!

Two Pheasant Hill Charm Packs
3/8 yard brown print for inner borders − I used brown Feather Grass Yardage SKU# 9382-16
5/8 yard tonal tan print for middle borders − I used tonal tan Feather Grass Yardage SKU# 9382-21
2 yards for mitered outer borders − I used navy Pheasant Row Yardage SKU# 9380-12
5/8 yard for binding − I used navy Turkey Tracks Yardage SKU# 9384-12
3 1/2 yards for backing


Select and set aside 8 matching pairs (the same print from each charm pack) of dark charm squares for half square triangle units.

Select another 8 matching pairs (the same print from each charm pack) of dark charm squares for four-patch units. From 16 dark charm squares, cut the following:

  • 4 – 2 1/2″ squares, for a total of 64 – 2 1/2″ squares

Select 8 matching pairs (the same print from each charm pack) of light charm squares for four-patch units. From 16 light charm squares, cut the following:

  • 4 – 2 1/2″ squares, for a total of 64 – 2 1/2″ squares

From your inner border fabric, cut the following:

  • 2 – 2″ x 32 1/2″ strips
  • 2 – 2″ x 35 1/2″ strips

From your middle border fabric, cut the following:

  • 2 – 3 1/2″ x 35 1/2″ strips
  • 2 – 3 1/2″ x 41 1/2″ strips

From your outer border fabric, cut the following:

  • 4 – 5 3/4″ strips, cut from length of fabric (refer to photo in instructions before cutting)

From your binding fabric, cut the following:

  • 7 – 2 1/2″ x WOF (width of fabric) strips


1. Assemble two matching 2 1/2″ dark print squares and two matching 2 1/2″ light print squares as shown. Press towards the dark print fabrics. Four-patch unit should measure 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. Make four four-patch units from each pair. Make 32 total.

2. From the 8 matching pairs of dark charm squares you set aside, pair a matching pair with another matching pair for four sets of charm squares. From each set, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of one matching pair. With right sides facing, layer a 5″ dark print square with a different 5″ dark print square from the set. Stitch 1/4″ from each side of the drawn line. Cut apart on the marked line. Press towards the darker print. Trim the half-square triangle units to measure 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. Repeat to make four units from each set. Make 32 total.

3. Assemble two identical 4 1/2″ four-patch units and two identical 4 1/2″ half-square triangle units as shown. Patchwork block should measure 8 1/2″ x 8 1/2″. Make two from each pair. Make 16 blocks total.

4. Assemble quilt center as shown. Quilt center should measure 32 1/2″ x 32 1/2″.

5. Attach inner side borders using 2″ x 32 1/2″ brown print strips. Attach inner top and bottom borders using 2″ x 35 1/2″ brown print strips.

6. Attach middle side borders using 3 1/2″ x 35 1/2″ tonal tan print strips. Attach middle top and bottom borders using 3 1/2″ x 41 1/2″ tonal tan print strips.

7. Cut four 5 3/4″ strips along the length of the fabric as shown for the outer border.

8. Attach all four borders to the quilt, repeating the following steps for each side. First, mark the center of the middle border. Mark the center of the 5 3/4” wide outer border. Match center marks and pin the border in place by starting in the center.

9. Sew the outer border to the quilt by beginning and ending 1/4” from the edge of the quilt. Backstitch at the beginning and ending of stitching to secure stitching. If your measurements have been accurate your stitched seam should measure 41”. If your measurement varies slightly, that is ok, but the same measurement needs to be used for every side to ensure your quilt is square.

10. All four borders are now attached and the tails of each border are hanging free.

11. Place one border on top of an adjacent border by folding one corner of the quilt diagonally with right sides together. This can be achieved by folding the entire quilt into a large triangle.

12. Match up outside raw edges of the border and pin in place.

13. Using a ruler with a 45 degree angle marking, draw a line from the end of stitches to the outside edge of border as shown.

14. Stitch along the marked line, starting on the side attached to the quilt center at the end of the stitch from step 9. End the stitchng on the outer edge of the quilt.

15. Backstitch at the beginning and end of stitching to secure stitching. Press open and trim 1/4” away from seam. You have just finished a mitered outer border!

Quilting & Binding

Piece 2 1/2″ navy print strips end to end for binding. Quilt and bind as desired.

A radiant 52″ square quilt!

Sarah Price

4-Step Flagstone Quilt

Hey everyone! It’s Jera from Quilting In The Rain bringing you this fun quilt top that you can finish in a weekend.

And here’s a sweet treat for all you pre-cut lovers…The West Seattle Fabric Company‘s online shop is offering Boho Quilt Kits, plus 10% off all pre-cuts and kits by typing in the code bakeshop at checkout.

 Grab a Layer Cake or a Boho kit and get this quilt top done within a few hours. Have fun!

For one big quilt measuring 54.5″x63.5″

  • One  Layer Cake (you will need all 42 squares)
  • coordinating thread
  • 1/2 yard binding
  • 3 1/4 yards backing 


For two smaller quilts measuring 36.5″x45.5″ each

  • One  Layer Cake (each quilt uses 20 squares)
  • coordinating thread
  • 3/4 yard binding (will bind both)
  • 3 yards backing (will back both)


    Step 1 – Choose ten pre-cut 10 inch squares and lay them directly on top of one another making sure they are aligned. Using a ruler and rotary cutter, make a diagonal cut through all ten layers. Make sure the cut is similar to the one shown below (i.e. don’t make the cut too slanted).

    After you make the diagonal cut, you will have two stacks of fabric: Stack A and stack B.

    Step 2 –  From stack A, take the bottom piece and from stack B take the top piece. Place them together as shown below. Piece these two pieces together (with right sides facing together, sew a 1/4″ seam allowance). Repeat until stack A and B are all pieced together.

    Tip: For faster piecing, you can chain piece:

    Step 3 –  After you’ve completed Step 2, press open all of the blocks using an iron. Next, stack all of your blocks on top of one another, same as you did in Step 1. Make sure all the blocks are facing the same direction and are aligned. Rotate the stack and then make a diagonal cut again, as shown below.  Once again, you will have stacks A and B.

    Repeat Step 2 with stacks A and B:

    After sewing together, press open with an iron. A finished block will look like this:

    Repeat steps one through three with ten more pre-cut ten inch squares so that you will yield a total of 20 finished blocks. If you want to make the bigger quilt, repeat the steps until you yield a total of 42 finished blocks.
    Step 4 –  To make the smaller quilt, lay all 20 finished blocks in a 4×5 formation as shown below. To make the bigger quilt, lay all 42 finished blocks in a 6×7 formation. 
    To piece the quilt top together, first sew all four blocks together in each row, and then sew each row together. (Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew with the right sides facing each other, and then press open with an iron).

    Lastly, baste and bind your quilt. That’s all there is to it!

    Two smaller quilts measuring 36.5″x45.5″ each, or one big quilt measuring 54.5″x63.5″

    The fabric I used in the above images are from Moda’s Marmalade collection. Below I used a combination of Moda’s Sew Stitchy and Noteworthy collection. This pattern is so much fun I’ve used several different collections, so grab a Layer Cake and have fun!

    Happy Quilting 🙂

    Jera Brandvig

    Happy Go Round Quilt

    Hi, Moda Bake Shop readers! It’s Lisa Calle from Vintage Modern Quilts, sharing a project I love to pieces. You may have already seen a sneak peek of this quilt if you were at QuiltCon in February. I’m happy to share the finished product here today. I love this quilt! Happy Go Lucky from Bonnie and Camille is on the way to becoming one of my all-time favorite lines. The colors, the happy florals, the vintage look, the perfect tiny dots…it’s got everything.

    This is an improv style quilt so you may use more or less fabric than I did…It all depends on your cutting and piecing. I used Bella Solids layer cakes in my quilt top but I’ve given an option below for using yardage instead. Just know that you will have more cutting involved if you opt for yardage.

    1 Layer Cake (Happy Go Lucky by Bonnie and Camille)
    3 coordinating solids layer cakes (I used Robin’s Egg, Blue, and White. NOTE: You will only use a fraction of these layer cakes so you’ll have plenty left for a second quilt or another project. I used 16 Blue, 20 Robin’s Egg, and 12 White.)
    3.5 yards of coordinating solids
    1/2 yard binding (Happy Go Lucky 55067 11)
    4 1/8 yards backing (mine is pieced using Happy Go Lucky 55063 22 and 55061 17)

    Curve Master 1/4″ Presser Foot (This foot is great for all curved piecing.)

    All seams are 1/4″. Read instructions before beginning. I recommend practicing on some scrap fabric before you cut into your layer cake. Unfinished block size is 9″.

    1. If you are working with yardage for your solids, cut into 10″ squares. You will need a total of 48 ten-inch squares from your solids.

    2. Select four layer cake squares – a mix of prints from the collection and some solids. I went by the general rule of two solids, two prints.

    3. Layer your four layer cake squares into a neat pile, making sure the edges are lined up on all sides.

    4. Using a rotary cutter with a fresh blade, cut a freehand arc across your stack of layer cake squares. Go slowly and use firm and even pressure Try to make a wide curve. The tighter angles are going to be harder to sew. For a video tutorial showing exactly how to cut and piece these improv curves, click {here}.

    5. Mix and match your inner and outer curves. Line your inner curve edge up with the outer curve edge, right sides together.

    *A note about pinning* You do not need to pin these curved seams. Starch your edges to keep the bias seams in check and/or use the curve master foot.*

    Sew a 1/4′ seam along the curve, gently guiding the fabrics together under the foot of your sewing machine. The key is to guide the fabric. No tugging or pulling as that will distort your seam.

    5. Press light to dark. Repeat sewing and pressing process for your other fabrics in the stack.

    6. Once you’ve sewn all four sets, check them for size. Set aside any blocks that don’t quite measure 9″ square. These are your A blocks. Trim your other blocks to 9″ square and set into your finished pile. These are your B blocks.

    Note: These blocks do have a right and a wrong way. It’s easy to tell if  you’re working with prints, but solids can be trickier. If your block ends up like this, you’ve sewn it the wrong way. Just seam rip (gently), flip the inner curve, and sew again.

    I made this block just to show you guys. I would so never make a block like that. Never. Ever. 😉

    7. Repeat this process until you have 64 blocks total: A and B blocks.

    8. Take your stack of A (not quite 9″ blocks) and repeat the curve step from above, but this time just choose one layer cake. Set it underneath your pieced block and shift it to enlarge the block. Cut a curve just like before. Sew your two pieces together and press light to dark. Square up to 9″.

    Alternatively, if you are a master curve piecer and didn’t have any blocks that didn’t make it to 9″ (go, you!),  take half of your perfect blocks and add a second curve to them using the process outlined above. This quilt will look nice with just one curve per block, but the second curve adds a lot of movement throughout the quilt. I made several blocks that have up to four curve in them.

    9. Assemble your quilt top in a 8×8 block layout. I sewed mine in sets of 4 blocks at a time so I could take extra care matching the points where the four blocks meet in the center of the broken circles. Don’t worry too much about fabric placement. Just have fun with it! There are lots of options for setting the blocks in this quilt. I made another version using Aspen Frost by Basic Grey:

    {Note: the Aspen Frost version is smaller}

    10.  Baste, quilt, and bind as desired.

    One happy and fun 68″ x 68″ quilt.

    If you make one, please add it to the Moda Bake Shop {Flickr} group. Don’t forget to stop by my blog and say hi. 

    Lisa Calle