Blissful Confection


I’m feeling a little scrappy, how about you? I love using layer cakes to achieve a quick lap size quilt without the fuss of collecting a bunch of different fabrics. One layer cake, a couple borders, and voila! All the look I love of a scrappy quilt, with just a portion of the work. This will look great with any fabric line, but will especially shine with lines that have larger prints, like Bliss. Remember to be scrappy, have fun with it, and enjoy!

1 Bliss layer cake
1/2 yard: 1st border
1-1/4 yards: 2nd border
4 yards: backing
2/3 yard: binding          

Begin by separating the squares into 4 piles, one for each of the cutting instructions that follow. Make sure you have a nice mix of each color in each of the piles.

Cut 8 cakes into 8″ squares.

Trim 14 cakes into 9 pieces each (3″ squares).

Trim 10 cakes into a 5-1/2″ strip and a 3″ strip. Cut each of these strips into a 5-1/2″ segment and a 3″ segment.

Cut the last 10 cakes into a 3″ strip and a 5-1/2″ strip. Cut the 3″ strip into 3 squares 3″ x 3″. Cut the 5-1/2″ strip into a 5-1/2″ square and a 3″ segment.

Cut the first border fabric into 6 strips 2-1/2″ wide.

Cut the large border fabric into 7 strips 5-1/2″ wide.

Separate all of the cut pieces into piles for each size. Feel free to mix the colors within each pile (or you can do my favorite thing – shake up each pile in a paper bag – one for each size)

* You do not need to do anything with the 8″ squares. Set these aside for now until you layout the quilt top.

For block 2, randomly select three 3″ squares. Sew these together in a chain. Make 42 chained units.

Sew 3 chained units together, creating a block. Make 14.

For block 3, sew a 3″ x 5-1/2″ segment onto a 5-1/2″ square. Remember it’s random! Make 10 of these block halves.

Stitch a 3″ square on the end of a 3″ x 5-1/2″ segment. Make 10.

Pair the two block halves together matching seams. You should now have 10 of these blocks.

Block 4 will begin by sewing a 3″ x 5-1/2″ segment onto a 5-1/2″ square. Make 10 of these groupings.

Once again, randomly pick three 3″ squares and piece them together in a chain. Make 10 chains.

Sew the two units together to create the last 10 blocks.

Layout the top, twisting and turning the blocks as you go.

Add the borders. Then quilt, bind, and enjoy!

One nice lap sized quilt finishing 59″ x 67″. I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. For more ideas like this one, stop on over at my blog {rubybluequilts.blogspot.com}. I’d love to see what you’re working on and to show you what else I have been up to. Also, I’m having a little giveaway at the moment so stop by and enter to win!

Rebecca Silbaugh
Ruby Blue Quilting Studio

jump. hop. count. {a number playmat}



Hello! I’m LeAnne from Everyday Celebrations. This is my first recipe here at the Moda Bake Shop. I am thrilled to be a part of the wonderful contributors and hope you enjoy this fun project!  Please drop by my blog and say hi. You can also find more fun items and patterns in my Etsy shop.

Enjoy!

I made the Number Playmat with the young preschooler in mind. Little preschoolers are filled with excitement as they begin to learn the basics. This mat can be used as a fun and interactive aid in teaching numbers and numerical representation. This colorful Number Playmat has many uses:

  • Toss the bean bag to the square with the matching number.
  • Toss a bean bag on ‘jump’ or ‘hop’ and jump or hop that many times. 
  • Toss two bean bags on two squares. Add or subtract the two numbers.
  • Pick a number. Find a representation of that number in the room and place it on the square. Repeat for all the numbers. Example: Find two blocks and place on the 2 square. 
  • Write number words on index cards and place on the appropriate square. Also place a representation on the square. 

     

    1 Punctuation Layer Cake by American Jane
    1 yard for backing
    1 yard for binding and optional drawstring bag – find the drawstring bag tutorial here
    (if not making bag, 1/2 yard is enough for the binding) 
    batting 
    numbers and words templates – (included in printer friendly version at bottom of post)
    **Note there is not a 9 in the file because you can flip the 6 and have a 9.**
    1 yard iron-on adhesive, such as Heat n’ Bond
    beans to fill bean bags

    1/2 yard of flannel for bean bags, optional see step 19
    1 1/2 yards ribbon or cording, for the optional bag








    {playmat}
    ***All seam allowances are 1/4″ unless otherwise noted. ***

    ‘Slice’ into that yummy layer cake and decide which squares you will use for what.

    • playmat  – 12 squares
    • numbers/words –  4 – 7 squares (I used less ‘busy’ prints to help the numbers standout.)
    • bean bags – 5 squares
    • rock pockets, optional – 1 square (I added ‘rock pockets’ in case I use my playmat outside.)

    Two quilt blocks make up this playmat:
    Block A – you will make 4 of these, corner pieces
    Block B – you will make 6 of these, middle pieces
    Center Squares – two layer cake squares that will remain whole


    1. For block A: Select four squares.

    2. For block B: Select three sets of two squares. (They are stacked on top of one another.)

    3. Center Blocks: Select two squares. These will remain whole.

    Cutting Block A
    4. Stack the four squares for block A together. Cut 3″ from one side. 

    5.  From the 3″ x 10″ piece just cut, cut 1/2″ from one of the short ends.

    6. From the main piece that remains, cut 3″ from the 7″ side.  You will have three sizes for block A:

    • 3″ x 9 1/2″
    • 3″ x 7″
    • 7″ square

    Cutting Block B
    7. Stack the six squares for block B together.  Cut  3″ from one side.

    Piecing Block A
     8. To make each block, pick one 3″ x 7″ piece, one 3″ x 9 1/2″ piece, and one 7″ square. With right sides together, sew the  3″ x 7″ piece to the left side of the 7″ square.  Press seams open. Repeat for the other A blocks.

    9. For this step, keep the block in the position shown above. For two of the blocks, sew one 3″ x 9 1/2″ piece to the top of the block. For the other two blocks, sew the one 3″ x 9 1/2″ piece to the bottom. Again, sew with right sides together and press seams open.

    Piecing Block B
    10. To make each block, pick one 3″ x 10″ piece and one 7″ x 10″ piece. (I just swapped pieces between the two squares I initially matched up.) Place pieces right sides together, matching up the 10″ sides. Sew and press seams open. 

    11. Decide on the placement of the squares. Refer to the picture below for placement of the blocks. 

    12. Sew the blocks right sides together so you have three rows. Then sew the rows together to form the playmat top.

    13. Trace the numbers and letters on to iron-on adhesive and adhere to desired fabric squares. **Note there is not a 9 in the file because you can flip the six and have a nine.** Follow the directions for cutting and adhering as indicated on the package for your brand of iron-on adhesive. Then adhere the numbers and letters to the playmat. I put my numbers on in a clockwise fashion with the words in the middle. You can also trace and cut out the numbers for the bean bags at this time.

    14. Blanket-stitch or zig-zag around the numbers and words to reinforce the adhesive. (I used a machine blanket stitch.) Make a ‘quilt sandwich’ and quilt or tie as desired. I have to admit, this was the first ‘quilt’ I ever machine quilted using my own sewing machine. I loved the result although it isn’t perfect. However, it was the perfect sized project for a beginner machine quilter. I just quilted around my numbers and words, it wasn’t a problem.

    15. Optional: After quilting but before binding, add the rock pockets. Take one square and cut into four 5″ squares. Fold each 5″ square diagonally and press.

    16. Pin one pocket in each corner with the folded edge facing out. Baste the pockets in place about 1/8″ from the edge.

    17. Bind the playmat as desired.

    {bean bags}
    18. Select 5 squares from the Layer Cake. Stack the squares together and cut into 5″ squares. You will have (20) 5″ squares in all. On 10 of the squares adhere the number in the center of the square.

    19. Optional: I found adding a layer of flannel to the bean bags made them a bit sturdier.  Cut (20)
    4 1/2″ squares from flannel.  (I cut my 4 1/2″ squares from some leftover flannel from a previous project.) To make this quick cut two or three 4 1/2″ strips from flannel, stack, and then cut into 4 1/2″ squares. 

    20. Blanket stitch or zig-zag around each number to reinforce the adhesive. I HIGHLY recommend doing this since the bean bags will be handled and tossed. Zig-zag stitching around each number doesn’t take very long. (To tell the difference between the 6 and 9 I stitched a line of red zig-zag stitching below the six at this point.)

    21. Place two 5″ squares for one bean bag right side down. (One square should have a number, one shouldn’t.)  Center one  4 1/2″ flannel square on each 5″ square.

    22. Flip one square over so wrong sides are now together. Line up all the layers of fabric. Pin each corner.

    23. Sew the bean bags together using 1/2″ seam allowance. Leave an opening at the top. Fill the bean bag about 1/2 way with beans.

    24. Machine stitch opening close and secure by back stitching. Pink the raw edges with pinking shears.

    Get ready to learn with your little one in a fun and interactive way!

    27.5″ x 37″ Number Playmat 

    10 or more bean bags
    drawstring storage bag, tutorial found here

    LeAnne Ballard

    The Backpack

    Hi! I’m Tiffany from Tiny Seamstress Designs! I’m so excited to be sharing my ideas here with you on the Moda Bake Shop. This is a great backpack for all of your grade school children and can be altered to fit younger children as well.

    I used the Lily and Will collection by Bunny Hill Designs to make this backpack, they have color ways for boys and girls…so fun!
    • 1 1/2 yard fabric for body
    • 1 1/2 yard fabric for lining
    • 2 fat quarters for ties (they do not have to be the same print)
    • fusible fleece
    • 2 Magnetic snaps

    Using body (outside) fabric cut:
    • (2) 17″ by 15″ pieces (front and back)
    • (2) 17″ by 6″ pieces (sides)
    • (1) 15″ by 6″ piece (base)
    • (1) 15″ by 9″ piece (flap)
    • (2) 3 1/2″ by 26″ pieces (straps)
    • Apply fusible fleece to the wrong sides of each body piece.

    Using lining (inside) fabric cut:

    • (2) 17″ by 15″ pieces (front and back)
    • (2) 17″ by 6″ pieces (sides)
    • (1) 15″ by 6″ piece (base)
    • (1) 15″ by 9″ piece (flap)
    • (2) 26″ by 3 1/2″ pieces (straps)
    • (1) 9″ by 3″ piece (handle)
    • (2) 6″ by 5″ pieces (pencil pocket)
    • (2) 15″ by 10″ pieces (pocket)
    • Apply fusible fleece to wrong side of one pocket piece.
    Using 2 Fat Quarters cut:
    • (4) 22″ by 3″ strips
    • (4) 19″ by 3″ strips
    Your cut pieces will look like this:

    SEWING:

    1. Pencil Pocket: Sew both pieces right sides together, leaving 2″ opening to turn. Turn right sides out, press, and top stitch across top of pocket.

    2. Pocket: With both pieces right sides together, sew across top. Turn right sides out, press, and top stitch top of pocket. See picture below.
    3. Measure 5 1/2″ from top center of back lining piece and sew pencil pocket in place across bottom and down both sides. Sew pencil slots 3/4″ apart as shown. Line larger pocket up with base of back lining piece and pin in place. Measure 5″ from each side and stitch from top to bottom, forming 3 pockets as shown below.
    4. Place one body strap piece and one lining strap piece right sides together, sew down both long edges, leaving ends open. Turn right sides out, press and top stitch down both long edges. Repeat with other strap pieces.

    5. Fold small handle piece in half and press. Unfold and lay right side down. Fold left side to center and press. Fold right side to center and press. Bring both folds together and sew down edges.

    6. Measure 3″ from the right top edge of back body piece and sew top of strap in place. Measure 3″ from the left top edge of back body piece and sew top of other strap in place. Repeat with each strap on the bottom of body piece. Sew handle ends to top edge of bag as shown.

    7. Next you’re going to make four ties from the fat quarter pieces. Pin two tie pieces of the same length right sides together and stitch around three edges leaving one end open. Turn right sides out, press and top stitch. Repeat with the rest of strap pieces until you have four ties as shown.
    8. On the base of front body piece measure from one side over 3″ and sew short tie piece in place. Repeat on opposite side with other short tie piece as shown below.

    9. On top of body flap piece, measure from one side over 3″ and pin long tie in place from top to bottom. Top stitch tie all the way down on each side, stopping 1″ from bottom of flap. Repeat with other long tie as shown below.

    10. Place body flap and lining flap right sides together and pin, making sure your ties are tucked in. Stitch down both sides and across the bottom, leaving top open. Turn right sides out, press, and top stitch edges and across the top of ties.

    11. Center flap on the top of back body piece as shown below and stitch together across raw edges as shown below.
    12. This part is optional. Find top center of each body side piece and measure each way 1 1/2″ and apply magnetic snap as shown below. This will allow the backpack to be a little more secure and shrink down a little.
    13. With right sides together line body base piece up with base of front body and sew across edge. Line back body up with opposite side of body base piece and sew across edge.

    14. With right sides together sew long edge of side body piece to side of front body piece. Sew opposite long edge of side body piece to the side of back body piece. Sew end of base to end of side piece. Repeat on the opposite side of the bag. See picture below.

    15. Repeat steps 13 and 14 with lining pieces, leaving a 4″ opening in the base to turn later.

    16. Place body inside of lining with right sides together and pin around top as shown below.

    17. Stitch around top edge. Turn bag right sides out through 4″ opening, press and top stitch around top edge. Top stitch or hand stitch 4″ opening closed.

    Your backpack is complete and ready for school! 🙂

    Visit my blog for a coordinating back to school project and other fun patterns! http://tinyseamstress.blogspot.com/

    When finished, your backpack will measure about 16″ tall by 14″ wide by 5″ deep.
    This bag is designed for a child approximately 4’8″ and taller. If your child is smaller than this you can cut all of your body and side pieces to measure 15″ tall for a better fit. Adjust straps as needed.

    Pure Comfort

    Hi everyone! It’s Cara from CaraQuilts and I’ve got a project for all of you who are always chilled, or live with someone like my husband who is always hot, and therefore makes the house cold!!

    This is a quilted wrap/shawl, and all it takes is one jelly roll! Very little waste in this one. And it’s easy! And fast! What else could you ask for?? I have to tell you I’ve pretty much lived in this wrap since I finished it.

    Like any pattern, please read through it completely before starting. If you have any questions at all, just e-mail/message me over at my blog and I’d be happy to help! Oh, and make sure to let us know if you like the pattern! 🙂


    1 Pure Jelly Roll
    1 3/4 yards Snuggles Chocolate, backing
    1/2 yard binding


    3.5 yards Pure twill tape (see option)

    Center Section

    Separate 29 strips for the center section of the wrap. Cut these down to 25 1/2″. Take the cutoffs and trim them down to 16 ½” and set aside for use in the side sections.

    Sew the center section strips together, alternating direction to help prevent stretching. Press well, all in one direction. Clean up the sides so they are even. Measure the length of the wrap; this is how long your sides have to be. It should measure 58 1/2”.

    Sides
    Take the remaining full length strips and cut them down to 26½”. Attach one cutoff piece to either end of the 26½” strips. Arrange the strips in whatever order you like best and stitch together into (2) 6 strip pieces.

    Alternate the strips coloring, both in the middle and end strips.

    Note: If making for either a plus size (because I love you all I’ll admit to being a 14, which will give you a perspective) or someone tall (over 5’10’’, again because I love you, I’m 5’8”) you may want to make the wrap wider. To do this, cut two extra 2½” strips from the binding fabric. Trim down to 26½”. Add 16 ½” cutoff strips to either end. Attach to the side sections. This makes the wrap 4½” wider, about 53½”. If you need to go any wider you will have to adjust the backing measurements, so you have room for it to shrink up as you quilt.

    Cut 8 of the remaining cut offs to 141/2″. Stitch 4 strips end-to-end so that you have (2) four strip sections measuring 58 1/2″. Press in half, wrong sides together. Press in half again. Pin on the edge of the center section, layering the side sections on top. Stitch through all layers. Press away from the center.
    Option: Instead of the folded strips, you could sew the side sections to the center, and press, and then use the twill tape that is available for the line, and place it over the seam, pinning well, and stitch on either side.
    Baste and quilt. I would suggest not quilting very heavily as you want it to drape and wrap around you well. Too much thread will make it stiff, and you’ll lose some of the snuggley softness of the, well, Snuggles!

    DO NOT BIND…yet anyways 😉

    Now to make this a wrap and not a quilt.

    Measure the entire piece and find the center, if you don’t have anything this long, just fold in half and press lightly. Mark this with chalk pencil or whatever non-permanent method you prefer.

    From that point go up to the 16th strips from the bottom. Mark.

    Go back to the bottom mark and measure out 2” on each side and mark.
    Draw a line from the mark you just made to the 15th strip mark. Do this on both sides. Sew on the line all the way up, and repeat on the other side.

    Cut out the center “triangle” a scant ¼” from the sewing line.

    For the binding, you will need about 290″, including the 10″+ extra for corners etc.
    I use 2″ strips for binding so if you use wider you will have to recalculate the yardage. Cut 7 strips.

    Now you get to bind! Wrap up and enjoy some Pure comfort!

    Be sure to take a picture and upload it to Bake Shop’s Flickr page so we can all see!

    One adult size wrap/shawl! Get Cozy!

    Cara Wilson

    Pinwheels in the House Quilt

    Hello! I’m Kaye from Miss Print and I am so happy to be here! This is my first project at the Bake Shop, but hopefully it won’t be my last! 

    This quilt was inspired by my love of mixing different quilt blocks and techniques together. I thought to myself, hey wouldn’t it be fun to mix a pinwheel block with a log cabin block? And so Pinwheels in the House was born…get it? Pinwheels inside of a log cabin block…Pinwheels in the House? Gosh, I kill myself sometimes…okay, on to the tutorial!

    1 charm pack – I’m using Verna by Kate Spain
    1 honey bun – Also Verna by Kate Spain
    4 jelly roll strips
    1 1/4 yard for backing
    1/2 yard for binding

    We’ll begin by creating the pinwheel centres for each block:

    Select 13 charm squares and cut each into four 2.5″ x 2.5″ squares. Divide into 25 sets of 2 matching squares (since you only need 25 sets you will have one set extra).

    Cut your jelly roll strips into 2.5″ x 2.5″ squares. You will need 50 squares and each jelly roll strip will yield 16 squares. Pair up two of these squares with each of the sets that you cut above – each pinwheel will require two solid squares and two matching print squares.

    On the back of each solid square draw a line down the middle.

    Pair up one solid square and one print square right sides together. Sew a 1/4″ seam on either of the line you drew.

    Cut down the middle of the block along your pencil line.

    Press seams away from the solid half of the block and snip off the little pointed seam ends so that the block is square. Repeat with the other solid square and the matching print square. You should now have four matching half-square triangles measuring 2″ square.

    Line up the squares as shown in the photo above.
     

    Sew the two top squares together and the two bottom squares together. Once again, press your seams away from the solid side.

    Sew the top and bottom pieces together along the long side and press your seams open. You now have a pinwheel centre for your block! Repeat with your remaining 24 sets of solids and prints.

    Now it’s time to add our log cabin borders to the pinwheel centre:

    Here are the cutting directions for your honey bun strips:

    Cut 2 honey bun strips into 3.5″ pieces. Each strip will yield 12 pieces.
    Cut 5 honey bun strips into 4.5″ pieces. Each strip will yield 9 pieces.
    Cut 7 honey bun strips into 5.5″ pieces. Each Strip will yield 7 pieces.
    Cut 8 honey bun strips into 6.5″ pieces. Each strip will yield 6 pieces.
    Cut 5 honey bun strips into 7.5″ pieces. Each strip will yield 5 pieces.
    Cut 1 honey bun strip into five 4.5″ pieces, one 5.5″ piece, and two 6.5″ pieces.
    From one of the leftover pieces from cutting the 7.5″ pieces, cut one 3.5″ piece.

    Separate the pieces into corresponding size piles. You should have 25 pieces each of the 3.5″ and 7.5″ pieces; and 50 pieces each of the 4.5″, 5.5″, and 6.5″ pieces.

    Arrange the honey bun pieces around your pinwheel as shown above. I chose to match up the honey bun pieces with each pinwheel before I began sewing the log cabin borders to ensure the colour variation was nice from block to block.

    Sew your 3.5″ piece on first to the top of the block. Press seam out from the centre.

    Sew a 4.5″ piece to the right-hand side of the pinwheel. Press seam out from the centre.

    Sew your second 4.5″ piece to the bottom of the pinwheel. Press seam out from the centre.

    Sew a 5.5″ piece to the left-hand side of your block. Press seam out from the centre. You’re inner border is now done!

    For the outer border, begin with your 5.5″ piece at the top and work in the same clockwise fashion as you did for the inner border. Press all seams out from the centre.

    Look at that – your block is done! Repeat the above steps with the rest of your 24 pinwheels and honey bun pieces.

    Layout your blocks in a 5×5 grid and sew together to create your quilt top!

    Sandwich it up, baste, quilt, bind… and you’re finished!

    One 35×35″ quilt perfect for cuddling a new baby, using as a play mat for a toddler, or draping as a stroller quilt.

    Kaye Prince

    Summer Fresh Pillowcases


    Have you heard about the 1 Million Pillowcase Challenge?  This challenge intrigued me.  Pillowcases are so easy to make that I wondered if they could really make a difference.  Then I made my kids some new pillowcases.  I noticed that they loved them!  Sometimes they would take them and fill them with toys and drag them around the house.  Here’s my contribution to the 1 Million Pillowcase Challenge!  Make a pillowcase for yourself or to donate! 
    Come visit my blog!  We’re just finishing up a Jelly Roll Sampler Quilt-Along and plans for another quilt- along are in the works.

    1 Fresh Cottons Honey Bun
    3/4 yard each of 4 different Fresh Cotton prints

    That’s enough to make 4 pillowcases!


    1)  This step is optional.  You only need to do this if you are making 4 pillowcases with your Honey Bun. Take yardage and cut one 1 1/2″ strip off one end.  Cut a clean edge from the other end of the yardage.  Your yardage should be between 25″ and 27.”  The exact size doesn’t matter.  Just make sure you have a piece that is nice and square (not square as in all sides even – square as in 90 degree corners).

    2)  Pick 1 Honey Bun strip or one of the 1 1/2″ strips that were just cut from the yardage to use as the accent trim for the pillowcase. 
    Note: 
    I took this picture and then changed my mind several times.  I ended up making two pillowcases with trim and two without trim just for fun. 
    3)  Take all the Honey Bun strips and cut them in half.  Now there are 80 strips that are about 1 1/2″ x 20″ long.
    4)  Separate these half strips so that each pillowcase has 20 half strips.  I originally wanted to sew mine randomly together, but I couldn’t do it. 
    5)  Sew the half strips together into 2 sets of 10 strips.  Press.
    6)  Cut each of these strip sets into 2 sets 9″ wide.  The length of the strip set should technically be 10 1/2.”  I found that because of variables in sewing and pressing this many seams that this length varied slightly.  I have made allowances for this in the pattern. 
    7)  Sew 4 of the 9″ strip sets together into a circle as shown below:
    8)  Press it in half with WRONG sides together as shown below:

    9)  Here’s where we account for how big your strips end up being.  Measure the length of your pillowcase band folded.  It should be around 20.”  Add 1/2″ for the seam allowance.  This is how wide to cut the folded body of your pillowcase.   In the picture below, the fold of your yardage and accent strip are on the left out of the picture.  Measure from the fold and cut 20 1/2″ or what your band measured.

    10)  Turn your yardage (shown in green) right sides together and sew along two sides.  Then sew the same seam again, this time with a zig zag stitch.  (A serger would be great instead if you have one.)   Turn your accent strip (shown in red) right sides together and sew along the narrow edge and zig zag as well.
    11)  Press the accent strip in half lengthwise with WRONG sides together. 
    12)  Sew the accent strip onto the pillowcase band with a 1/8″ stitch.  You are basting the accent onto the band and don’t want the stitching line showing in the finished product. 
    13)  With a 1/4″ seam, sew the band onto the body of the pillowcase with the RIGHT side of the pillowcase body next to the ACCENT strip as shown below: 
    14)  Zig zag this seam as well.  (A serger would be great here too.)
    15)  Turn it inside out and find a pillow!
    4 Pillowcases — here’s a picture of the bands. 
    These pillowcases are quick enough that you can finish them in the few dog days of summer that are left!

    Crossing Paths


    Hello, Moda Bake Shoppers!! It’s KarrieLyne again from Freckled Whimsy! I’m so pleased to bring you my second bake shop goodie, Crossing Paths.

    I’m also excited to share that Leah over at Burgundy Buttons has everything to make this quilt top in a kit, just for you! She also has backing fabric at a great price too! So hop on over and pay her a visit to pick up this kit. Make sure to tell her I said hello. 🙂

     Enjoy!

    1 Layer Cake
    1 1/2 yards of a light solid or near solid (30150-92)
    1 1/4 yards for outer border  (30232-17)
    2 1/2 yards dark solid or near solid for blocks, first border and binding (30150-99)
    4 1/2 yards for backing (30234-17) & batting to match size

    Cutting:
    *Using the light yardage, cut (18) 10” squares.
    *From the black, cut (18)  2” strips. Then cut those in half to yield 32 strips.
    *Cut 8 more 2″ strips from the black for your 1st border.
    *From the black fabric cut 8 strips 2.5″ wide to use for the binding
    *From the outer border fabric, cut width of fabric into 8 strips, measuring 4.5″ wide.

    Using the solid squares you cut, draw a line from top to bottom of each solid piece measuring 5” from the edge. (Right down the center).

    Choose 18 layer cake pieces. I tried to keep out the lightest ones and the dark solids. Keep a good mixture of lights and mediums.

    Put a layer cake piece and a solid piece RIGHT SIDES together.

    Sew 1/4” seam on each side of that drawn line.

    Cut on drawn line.

    Press to dark. Yield two pieces.

    Do this for all 18 pairs.

    Pair them again so that each pair has two different prints from the layer cake. I paired mine all at once so I wouldn’t get duplicates. 🙂

    On one of the pairs, on the WRONG side, draw a vertical line at 5” from the edge. Make sure your first sewn line is horizontal, or left to right.

    Put your two pieces RIGHT sides together so that your print is on TOP of your solid. Your seams should nest nicely.

    Sew 1/4” seam on each side of your drawn line.

    Cut on drawn line. Press.

    Each pair will yield 2 Four Patches. Do this process for each pair. You should have 36 Four Patches when you’re complete.

    Cut from corner to corner through the LIGHT SOLID in each Four Patch block. Do not cut through the prints.

    Sew one of the 2” black strips to one side of your triangle piece. Make sure you have some (at least an inch) of overhang on each end. Press to the dark.

    Fold the piece with the strip in half, corner to corner and gently finger press the fold to create a line in the fabric. Flip the other triangle over top, RIGHT sides together, and line up the edges and the point of the triangle to the creased line. This is so it will be centered.

    Sew the pieces together. Press to the dark.

    Trim the two corners. (This is why you want at least an inch of overhang!)

    Do this for all 36 Four Patches.

    Arrange four of these “Four Patches” per the below photo.

    Sew the top two blocks. Press to one side. Then sew the bottom two blocks and press to the opposite side. Then sew the top and bottom pieces together to form one large block.

    **NOTE** Your blocks will not all be the same size so you will need to match up your seams, not the edges of your blocks. This will create overhang on each side of your new block (the 4 four patch blocks).

    Now trim those hangover edges so your block is square. They should measure about 19.5″ square.

    Lay out your blocks 3 x 3, again making sure to match your seams. If your edges don’t line up, this is ok. Once you have the top together, you will square up the sides if needed.

    Once you’ve squared up the edges (if necessary) add the 2″ black border, then add the 4.5″ print border. Then sandwich your quilt, baste, quilt, bind and wash! 🙂


    One Crossing Paths quilt measuring about 69″ square (before washing)!

    I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial! If you make this quilt, please, oh please share it with me! You can email a photo of it to me HERE or you can add it to my Flickr Group HERE.  I would love to feature them on my blog! 🙂

    As always, if you have any questions, please feel free to email me HERE.  I am happy to help.

    Much Love and Happy Quilting!!

    KarrieLyne
    {http://www.freckledwhimsy.com}