Windmill Quilt

Hello, it’s Amanda from Material Girl Quilts and I am so happy to be back on the Moda Bake Shop today sharing my latest tutorial.  I am a huge fan of Fig Tree & Co. fabrics.  Joanna Figueroa has an amazing talent of putting together the most beautiful designs and colors.  I chose to use Tapestry for this quilt, but the latest Fig Tree & Co. line in shops is Avalon and it is just as gorgeous.

Now that it is summer, it seems to be the season for weddings.  This quilt was designed for a beautiful new couple in our family that will soon be tying the knot.  I hope this quilt helps warm their new home together.

1 layer cake Tapestry by Fig Tree & Co.
1 layer cake Moda Bella Snow (or 2 1/2 yards cut into 32 10″ squares)
4 yards backing fabric (Tapestry Marskesh in Cobblestone)
1/2 yard binding (Tapestry Yasmin in Cobblestone)

Select 32 print 10″ squares and pair with 32 background 10″ squares.

With right sides together and the background square on top, mark diagonal lines connecting the corners with a pencil as shown below.

After your lines are marked, pin the blocks together in several spots and then sew 1/4″ on each side of the diagonal lines.

Now it is time to cut these 10″ squares into a total of 8 half square triangles (HSTs)!  For the first cut, line your ruler up horizontally through the center of the squares and cut.

Without moving any pieces, rotate your ruler and line it up vertically through the center of the squares for the second cut.

Again, without moving any pieces, now it is time to cut directly on the two diagonal lines between the seams as shown below.

When you open up all of the cut pieces, you will end up with 8 matching HSTs.

Press each HST away from the background fabric and trim to measure 4 1/2″ square.

Now select two contrasting sets of half square triangles and lay out as shown below to create one block.  Press the seams for rows 1 and 3 of the block to the right and rows 2 and 4 to the left.  Each block will finish at 16″.

Lay out your 16 finished blocks in four rows of four blocks in a way that suits you and piece together.  Layer with batting and backing and quilt as desired.

One 64″ x 64″ quilt perfect for a newlywed snuggle 🙂

Amanda Castor
{Material Girl Quilts}

Framed Square Throw Quilt

Here’s a bright throw using one jelly roll that will add color to any room. I used the Over the Rainbow batik line from Laundry Basket Quilts. All of Moda’s batik lines have rich saturated colors though, making it easy for us to create something vibrant. You could use any one of them. Hopefully you’ll have fun making or taking this on vacation.

1 Batik Jelly Roll – Laundry Basket Quilts “Over the Rainbow”
3-1/4 yd. Backing fabric
1/2 yd. Binding fabric
64″ x 72″ Batting

Step 1 
Remove selvedges from strip ends. Choose 4 strips that are close in color and in high contrast to most of the other jelly roll strips. These will be used for the frames. Choose one more strip that contrasts to the 4 for centers of framed squares. Set aside.

Step 2 – Quilt Sections
Using a design wall, the floor, or whatever you’ve got, lay out the remaining strips in two sections.

Use 23 strips for the lower section and 10 strips (+ scraps later) for the upper section. Line up lower section strips vertically in the color order you prefer. I used most of the darker strips at left in the bottom section shading and ending with lighter fabrics at right. Use 10 strips for the upper section and shade for best contrast with framed squares placement.

Step 3 – Make 9 Framed Squares
Sew one set of high contrasting strips (3 strips) together approx. 13″ in length with the darker strip in the middle. Turn the strip to horizontal and cut 5, 2-1/2″ strips. These are the centers of the framed squares. Do the same with the other two strips you set aside (10.5″ length this time) and cut 4 center strips for a total of 9 centers 

Sew strips to the sides of each of the framed square center strips. Press seams out and trim as needed.

Step 4
Beginning at the left side of the lower section, sew three strips together (lengthwise). Press. Sew the next three strips together in the same way (strip sets 1 and 2). Press.

Step 5
Sew one framed square to the top of strip set 1. Press seam toward dark. Trim strip set 1 to same length as strip set 2.

Step 6
Press top and bottom edges under (1/4″) on 2, framed squares. Press under top edge of square to be used at bottom of strip set 1. Place strip set 1 next to strip set 2. Pin squares in place as shown with one square matching up to bottom of strip sets 1 and 2. Offset and place the other two squares matching up corners.

Step 7 
Appliqué or top–stitch top and bottom edges in place as pinned on each strip.

Step 8 
Carefully cut away the extra fabric beneath the appliquéd squares, leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Remove stitches and separate the scrap strips. Press. Scraps may come in to use to extend the width of the quilt upper section.

Step 9 – Complete Lower Section 
Sew all the remaining strips together lengthwise as you laid it out creating one piece with 4 framed squares. Press.

Step 10 – Upper Section
Number horizontal strips starting from bottom up 1-10. Sew strips 8, 9 and 10 together and sew a framed square to the end at top right. This is the top of upper section. Trim this strip set to match the width of lower section. Press.

Step 11
Sew strips 4, 5 and 6 together and sew a framed square to the left end. Press seam towards strips. Trim to same width as lower quilt section.

Step 12
Use strip scraps from beneath appliqués and ends of sets to extend width of remaining strips (1, 2, 3 in diagram) in upper section. Sew all the horizontal strips together to create one piece the same width as the lower section.

Step 13
Press edges under on remaining 3 squares for appliqué. Place as shown and appliqué edges except for the ones within seam allowance (bottom and far right edges).

Step 14
Sew the two sections together. Press seam towards upper section.

Step 15
But wait, there’s more… You’re sure to have more strip scraps available. Get more by trimming away any extra beneath appliqués. Sew scraps together end-to-end to yield two strips the length of the quilt. Sew one strip to each side which gets you an extra four inches in width.

Finish
Press the top again and make a quilt sandwich. Easy quilting suggestion: Start at top center and stitch vertical lines in varying widths out to the edges.

Trim excess batting and backing. Prepare and sew on binding.

One colorful, quilted throw approx. 53″ x 64″ finished.

You could easily make it a little bigger by adding a border. Have fun!

Robin Nelson
{www.craftsisters.com}

Umbrella-Friendly Patio Topper

Hello!  I’m so happy to be here as this is my first project for the Moda Bake Shop.   During the warmer months we spend a lot of time outdoors and tend to eat outside as well. I thought it would nice to pretty-up our outdoor space.  Using a jelly roll gives the topper a nice patchwork look and tons of color. 

1 Jelly Roll (I used Mimi by Chez Moi)
1 1/8 yard of coordinating fabric
40″ square cut of thin batting or heavy canvas
Fabric Pen or Chalk
Spray Baste or Basting Pins
Wonder Clips or Pins
5 yards of binding

Select 16 strips from your Jelly Roll

Arrange your strips into two groups of 8

Place 2 strips together.  Line up the selvedge end and sew down the length using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Iron the seam open and grab your next strip. 

This time align your strip on the opposite end and sew.   Changing direction for each strip prevents the strip set from curving.

Keep adding strips until you have 8 pieced together.

Bring your strip set over to your cutting mat and trim off one end. Leave the other end uncut.

 

MARKING:

Using a ruler mark the TOP edge of your strip set at 9.5″ and 10.5″.

Move your ruler edge down to your 10.5″ mark.  Mark again at 9.5″ and 10.5″.  

Do this all the way down the top of the strip set.

Using your ruler mark the BOTTOM edge of your strip set at 4.25″ and 5.25″.

Move your ruler edge down to your 5.25″ mark.  Mark at 9.5″ and 10.5″.  

Continue marking at 9.5″ and 10.5″ down the length of the strip set.

CUTTING:

Line up the top left corner and the first mark (4.25″) at the bottom of your strip set.  

Double check.  Cut!

 

Line up your ruler with the first mark at the top (9.5″) and at the bottom with the next mark available (originally 5.25″) and cut.

This provides you with your first ‘wedge’.  It should be 9.5″ along the top and 1″ along the bottom.

Repeating the cuts (6 wedges) the length of the strip set.  Use the next mark available on the top and bottom as your cutting guide.

Each cut will be 1″ on one end, 9.5″ on the other end.   Your ruler will change angles each cut.

You will have enough fabric to cut 7 wedges but you only need 6.  I’m saving my extra for another project.

 

Repeat the above steps with your second fabric set.

SEW:

Arrange the wedges to your liking.  You will have 3 wedges of edge color variant for a total of 12.

Sew 2 wedges together a time. Pin each seam together – it really helps to keep everything lined up and looking nice.

Then complete 2 sides. (Bojangles wanted to say hello!)

Then sew one more side together – leaving seam open.

Find a circle approximately 3″ in diameter, trace over the center hole and cut.  This cleans things up a bit and makes it easier for quilting.

Prepare your topper for quilting by stacking:
Backing fabric (pretty side down), then your batting or canvas, then the topper (pretty side up).

You may use a light batting or a heavy canvas like duck cloth. I find the canvas is a little easier to work with and the finished result lays a bit flatter. The pictures below are using a thin cotton batting.

Baste using your preferred method.  Spray baste is a quick and easy option for this project.
 

I chose to sew 1/4″ down the length of each side of the wedges.  You can be as elaborate as you want!

After quilting, trim off the batting and backing. Be sure to trim the open seam and center hole.

 

Since we are going for a circle it makes it nice to trim a little off the points.

1/4″ or less – just enough to get the pointy part off.

It should be looking something like this.

OPTIONAL:
If you chose to use store bought binding or want to make your own binding, now is the time to add it.
Then you are done!

If you are going to use the folding method for finishing, keep going!

Baste 1/8″ all around the unfinished edges.  This just helps hold all of the layers together.

After basting:  Starting at a corner fold under 1/4″, then fold again.  Pin or clip in place.
This should create a nice, tight 1/4″ double fold.

Continue clipping all the way around.

Due to the curving and tight fold, you will need a lot of pins or clips.  

Be sure you are folding under, not to the top.

 

I find it easier to clip a section, sew, then clip another section.

Sew between 1/4″ and 1/8″ all the way around the top. This will be enough to catch the folds underneath.

For the final step I decided to stitch all the way around using one of those decorative stitches that I never get to use!  This is purely optional.

You are done!  Take it outside and enjoy.

1 Jelly Roll will make 2 table toppers.

If you are attending any outdoor barbeques or parties this summer these table toppers would make a nice gift for the host.

Julie Hirt
{www.627handworks.com}

Simply Style Stacked Squares Quilt

My name is Erica and I blog over at Kitchen Table Quilting. I am so excited to share this quilt with you. Working with the gorgeous colors of this collection was so much fun and I hope you enjoy this tutorial!

2 Simply Style Jelly Rolls
1 Simply Style Layer Cake
1 yard Moda Bella White
4.25 yards solid for backing
2/3 yard print or solid for binding
batting that is at least 74″x82″

Cut your white solid into 12 strips that are 2.5″xWOF.

Pair up the strips from each jelly roll so that there the matching strips are together.

You will be using 23 of the 10″ squares from the layer cake and all of the jelly roll strips.  Take the 23 squares and match them with 2 pair of jelly roll strips (and the white solid strips) just like in the photo below.

One pair of strips will be used for the inner square (the purple fabric here) and one for the outer (the gray fabric.  

Cut the inner square fabric into 2 strips that are 2.5″x10″ and 2 strips that are 2.5″x14″.  Cut the outer square fabric into 2 strips that are 2.5″x14″ and 2 strips that are 2.5″x18″.  There are 8 total strips in the photo below, the strips that are the same size and color are stacked.  

Sew the 2.5″x10″ strips onto opposite sides of the layer cake and press the seams open.

Sew the 2.5″x14″ strips onto the remaining sides and press.

Repeat this process with the fabric for the outer squares.  

Use your ruler to cut the square in half. 

And then in half again so that you have 4 identical 9″ squares.

Use your design wall (or living room floor) to lay out the blocks so that there are 8 columns and 9 rows.  Leave some blocks intact so that all 4 are placed together, and then arrange the other blocks around them to give the illusion that they are stacked. 

Be careful that the way you arranging your blocks makes sense.  I made a mistake in my quilt top that I didn’t notice until I had finished binding the quilt.  Here is how my layout should have looked.

There will be some orphan blocks leftover. Arrange them into two random rows and piece them into the backing fabric.

Baste, bind, and quilt as desired. 

This finishes up as a good sized lap quilt.  Finished size: 68″x76″.

Erica Jackman
{kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}

Pink Ombre Patchwork Quilt

 

Hi Everyone!  I’m so pleased to be back here with a fun and easy project that is absolutely perfect for the beginner quilter (or for those who need to whip up a quick-yet-pretty gift).  The layout of this quilt is very simple and works with many pre-cuts – fat quarters, layer cakes, or charm packs. The trick is blending the fabrics from two different lines. I made this one with my daughter and it makes a great kids’ sewing project.

5 to 6 charm packs (choose lines that have lots of pink in different shades) – I used Posy by Aneela Hoey & 2wenty Thr3e by Eric and Julie Comstock.
3/8 yard Bella Solids for binding
3 2/3 yards Bella Solids for backing

From your charm packs, select fabrics with pink or white hues. Try mixing warms and cools too, as I did.  I even used a bit of orange. The results are actually very pretty.  Because you will be creating a quilt from dark to light, ensure that you have a nice even mix of both, along with a good amount of mid-range pink (or whichever colour you have chosen.  Say a mixture of five or six darker pinks/reds/oranges, five or six whites (with a touch of pink), and the rest in mid-range pinks.

Lay the charm squares on the floor and work out your desired design, ensuring that you gently blend the colours from dark to light.  Take a photo of this design to help ensure you get it right later on.

 

Starting in the bottom right hand corner, work backwards along the quilt, right to left, collecting your squares into a pile.  This will make it much easier when you come to sewing the quilt top.  Plus it looks pretty too…

Begin assembling your quilt in rows of eight, with a 1/4″ seam allowance for each seam.

Attach the strips together, either as you go or all at the end, your preference.

I gave my quilt top a good iron before sandwiching and quilting the top (very basic quilting – I am still very much a beginner quilter!).  Bind and quilt as desired. I used a white binding, but soft pink would look lovely too…  Didn’t I tell you it was easy?!

One small 40′ by 60′ single quilt for a pink-mad girl.  This would be a fun (and even easier) project using charm squares if you have enough pinks and whites – no cutting required!  Use fat quarters or layer cakes to make a larger version, and you can easily recreate this project using any colour you wish!

Stella Rutherford
{verydarkhorse.blogspot.co.nz}

Little Boy Blue {Toddler Bean Bag}

 

Summer is finally here! I whipped up this cute little bean bag for my son  to complement the girly tuffets I made for my daughter {Tea Party Tuffets}.  I used the boy-ish colors in flannel from Bonnie and Camille’s Marmalade line. Since I was working with leftovers, mine are just basic panels in two different prints, but ideally you would piece charm packs together and use my templates (at the end of the Printer Friendly version) to create a patchwork version.

• 2 yards lining material
• 2-1/2 yards bean bag material* or 4 charm packs
• 4 lbs (approximately 3 cubic feet) polystyrene beads
• One 22″ polyester zipper
• One “Little Boy Blue” Bean Bag Pattern, printed

*If using two prints, you will need 1-1/4 yard of each bean bag material.

BEAN BAG PATTERN ASSEMBLY: 

1. Open and print all pages of the “Little Boy Blue” Bean Bag Pattern on 8.5 x 11″ paper. Make sure that the printer settings are not set to “fit to scale.” The first page includes a 1″ tester square–measure to make sure everything has printed correctly.

2. Carefully cut out the pattern pieces labeled “Piece A,” Piece B,” and “Piece C.” Tape together as indicated in the adjacent diagram and set aside.

 3.  Carefully cut out the pattern pieces labeled “Piece D” and “Piece E.” Tape together as indicated.

NOTE: If you’d like to make a larger version of this bean bag (suitable for older kids), take these printed template pages to your local copy center and enlarge all pieces 150%.

CUTTING: 

You will need to cut a total of six bean bag panels from the bean bag material. (Since I am using two bean bag materials, I will be cutting three panels from each.) There are multiple ways to cut the panels from your fabric–here is my preferred method to get the most out of the yardage:

When you purchase fabric off the bolt, the manufacturer has already folded it in half widthwise, wrong sides together. Keeping it folded this way, make another fold by bringing the top of the fabric down about 9-10″ (or until the pattern fits along this new fold). Note: this new fold will run perpendicular to the manufacturer’s original fold.

Pin the pattern in place along the fold where indicated. Carefully cut around the pattern shape, remove the pins, and unfold the two resulting bean bag panels. Repeat the 9-10″ fold, realign the pattern, pin in place, and cut again. Repeat until you have six bean bag panels total.

*TIP: If using two different prints, this cutting method will yield 4 bean bag panels from each. You can refold the two extra panels (one from each print) and cut a top & bottom piece from each.

Speaking of the top & bottom pieces, go ahead and place that pattern on the fold of your leftover bean bag material and cut two. Designate one for the bean bag top and the other for the bean bag bottom.

LINING: Repeat the whole process to get six panels and a top and bottom from the lining material. 

SEWING THE BEAN BAG:

You will begin with two bean bag panels and the 22″ zipper. (If using two prints, retrieve one of each so we can alternate them).

Turn the zipper over so it is right sides together with one of the bean bag panels. Align the raw edges and pin in place down the entire zipper, moving the zipper head down as you go.

Once the zipper head reaches the bottom (or before then), move it back up a bit so you can pin the zipper tape beyond it. This may require removing some pins momentarily.

Install the zipper foot on the sewing machine (make sure you move the needle over to the left) and stitch the zipper in place, stitching as close to the teeth as possible.

Once you reach the zipper head, don’t be tempted to just stitch around it. Take a second to pause and pull the project out from the machine. Zip it up so the zipper head into the area where the zipper is already sewn down. Resume stitching all the way to the bottom.

Bring this “zippered” panel right sides together with the next panel. Referring to the picture below, fold the zippered-edge back slightly so the zipper is now right sides together with the other panel.

Line up the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the panel. Begin pinning the zipper tape in place just as you did with the other panel, moving the zipper head down, and so on.

Move needle to right of the zipper foot and sew the zipper tape in place from the top.

When you’re done, you can take a little sneak peek of what the zipper will look like! Looks good, but we need to do one more thing.

Top-stitch the zipper in place on both sides. Keep using the zipper foot and make sure the needle is set on the side away from the zipper teeth to give a nice (approx. 3/8″) seam allowance.

Now that the zipper is in place, we can sew the rest of the panels together.

Add the next panel (right sides together), aligning the raw edges, and pinning in place like so.

Sew along the pinned side using 3/8″ seam allowance.

Repeat and add another panel until all six are all attached in a row. If using two prints, alternate them. Bring the first and last panel right sides together, pin in place, and sew together.

Keep the bean bag inside out and unzip the zipper before proceeding.

Pin the top right sides together with the bean bag, aligning the raw edges. Sew the top in place using 1/2″ seam allowance.

Repeat to add the bottom, but double check that the zipper is open before you do. 

Finally, turn the bean bag right-side out through the zipper opening.

Repeat this whole sewing process (minus the zipper) with the lining pieces. When adding the final bottom round piece, only stitch it 2/3 of the way. Turn the lining right-side out through that hole and fill it with the polystyrene beads before stitching it closed.

A word about the polystyrene beads: Be sure to read and follow all instructions. They will cause a big mess if you’re not careful.

Once the bean bag is filled about 2/3 full, pin it shut and hand-stitch it closed.

Now you are ready to slip it into your beautiful bean bag cover. Zip up and enjoy! When it gets dirty, just unzip, remove the bean bag, and wash the bean bag cover.

 

A fun and happy pint-sized bean bag perfect for any toddler!

Vanessa Goertzen
{lellaboutique.blogspot.com}

Jiggity Quilt

Have you ever gotten an idea in your head and then had a hard time shaking it? It is like a song that inserts itself into your day and will not be abandoned. No matter what you do that silly song is right there with you.

This quilt is like that for me.

The idea grew from a comment I made in the instructions for my Twisted Charm quilt (posted on Moda Bake Shop on April 26, 2012) I had made the discovery, purely by accident, that if you cut your fabric while it was folded you could end up with half of your blocks turning at a different angle. I warned you that it would make your quilt look “jiggity” like an I-phone when you try to move the little icons around. Then I got a lovely bundle of Kapalua Batiks and wanted to make something beachy.

Jiggity is the blending of the blocks I warned you about and the summer time fun of Kapalua Batiks. It makes me think of bits of sea glass that are being tumbled in the ocean, broken bits caught in an undertow and polished until they delight us. I can smell salt mixed with a subtle hint of coconut oil drifting on a breeze….oh, that wasn’t the quilt….that was one of my boys walking by with a bowl of pop corn….different kind of summer time fun.

1 charm pack (40, 5″ squares) (Kapalua Batiks)
1 ½ yds cream solid (Bella Fig Tree Cream #9900-67)
1 3/4 yds chocolate brown solid (Bella Brown #9900-71)
½ yd inner border (Kapalua Batiks #4320-31)
½ yd binding (cut 2.5″ with wof) , and setting squares (Kapalua Batiks #4320-48)
3 yds backing (Kapalua Batiks #4320-31)

• Open the charm pack
• Remove the 10 charms that show the least amount of contrast with cream background fabric. The charms are set right against the cream fabric. Where there is no contrast there will be no gem sparkling on the sand.
• Of the remaining 30 charms, put every other patch in a different pile. Go through the whole pack until you have 2 piles of 15 patches. This will put approximately half of each color way in each pile.
• Cutting Directions:
• Block A – Single Twist (15 blocks)
• From cream
• 
• cut 3 5″ width of fabric (wof) strips
• cut 2 wof strips into 14 3″ pieces each
• cut 2 3″ pieces from the remaining wof strip
• you should have 30, 3″x5″ rectangles
• sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal for a total of 60 triangles.
• If you are using a patterned fabric for the background DO NOT LAYER YOUR RECTANGLES WITH LIKE SIDES TOGETHER WHEN YOU CUT THEM. This will result in half of the triangles leaning the wrong direction. If both sides of your fabric are the same (like in a Bella solid) this isn’t an issue.
• From charm pack

• Please measure your charms.  Do not assume that just because they are labeled 5″ squares that they are.  Charms are pinked at the edges.  Find out if 5″ is 5″ at the inside or the outside of the zigzag.  It will make a difference.
• 15 5″x5″ patches
• Block B – Double Twist (15 blocks)
• From brown

• cut 3, 5″ wof strips
• cut 2 wof strips into 14 3″ pieces each
• cut 2 3″ pieces from remaining wof strip
• you should have 30, 3″x5″ rectangles
• THIS IS THE POINT OF THIS QUILT – PAY ATTENTION If you are using Bella or a similar solid you don’t have to worry about how you cut things; however if you are using a printed fabric you need to take note of which direction you cut the rectangles for Block A. Cut all rectangles for Block B in the opposite direction.
• sub-cut each rectangle once on the opposite diagonal for a total of 60 triangles. *Mind the warning in Block A
• From cream
• cut 2, 4″ wof strips
• from 2 wof strips cut 15, 2 3/8″ x 4″ rectangles
• sub-cut each rectangle once on the diagonal, in the same direction you just did for the brown triangles in Block B, for a total of 60 triangles. *Mind the warning in block A
• From charm squares
• trim 15 charms to 3 3/4″ squares
• Sashing
• From brown
• cut 3, 6 ½” x wof strips
• cut 36, 1 ½” x 6 ½” rectangles (28 from one wof strip and 8 from a second.)
• SAVE rest of second strip with the third strip.
• From setting square fabric
• Cut 2, 1 ½” x wof strips
• Sew setting strips to remainder of brown strips from previous along the long edge.
• Iron seams toward the brown
• Cut 35, 1 ½” x 7 ½” rectangles from pieced strips. These will look like brown match sticks with colored heads.
• From remainder of setting stip cut 7, 1 1/2″ squares
• Inner Border
• From setting fabric
• cut 4, 1 ½” squares
• From inner border fabric
• cut 5, 1 ½” x wof strips
• Outer Border
• From cream
• cut 5, 4 ½” x wof strips
• From setting square fabric
• cut 4, 4 1/2″ squares
• Binding
• Cut 6, 2 ½” wof strips

Time for a break. If you have completed all of this cutting and prepping, the rest of the quilt should go together easily.

Piecing Directions:
Sometimes a sewing machine can eat the points of a triangle as it is being fed through the feed dogs.  If you have trouble with this, try using a leader.  A leader is a small piece of fabric that leads the way for the rest of your sewing.  Take a scrap of fabric and feed it through the feed dogs ahead of your triangles – like you are chain piecing an extra little bit before your real pieces.  It seems to help.

Block A – Single Twist

• The goal is to make 15 blocks like this one. They will each have a different center.
• Align a cream triangle with the stubby angle 1/4″ over the edge of a 5″ charm and the pointy angle 1/2″ over the parallel edge
• Sew 1/4″ seam along the long cream edge. If you are careful not to stretch the fabric, you don’t have to pin.
• I’ve noticed that when using a machine with a 1/4″ foot, I can align my needle at the intersection of the two pieces and edge of the fabric right next to the flange of the foot and everything comes out where it should. The seam will start and stop at where the edges of the fabric intersect.
• Iron the seam toward the cream.
• Repeat on next side, 3 times until all four sides are added
• Trim to 6 1/2″ square. Really. Do this. I sized the pieces so that they would be big – to make the piecing easier. If you don’t trim them it won’t work right.  Yes, it is tedious and boring.  I don’t like to do it either.  Do it anyway. 
• If you have a 6 1/2″ trimming square center the center so that as close to 1/4″ of cream is between the points and the edge.
• It is fine if it isn’t perfect. Even if you sew a corner into the seam allowance when you piece the blocks together it will still look square. The blocks are set in brown- your eyes will fill in any corners that are missing.
• Make 15.

• Block B – Backwards Double Twist

• The goal, again, is 15 blocks.
• These will each have a different center and two twists.
• Add the cream triangles to the trimmed charms in the opposite direction from Block A.
• Trim blocks to 5″ squares.
• Add the brown triangles just like you did the cream ones a moment ago.
• Iron towards the cream.
• Trim to 6 1/2″ squares.
• Make 15.

• Center

• Arrange blocks in a grid 5 blocks by 6 blocks alternating every other block.
• NOTE: to my OCD friends this quilt does not come out even. If you are really OCD you have already noticed this, and probably chosen not to make it…or you have altered the pattern. If you aren’t, you are doing it right if  the corner blocks only match on one side.
• Step away from your arrangement and see if you still like it. If you can’t get very far from it try taking a quick photograph of it with your cell phone. Look at the picture to see if the distribution of colors pleases you.
• If you have a design wall this is a good time to use it. If you don’t there are other options. You can put them on the floor or lay them on a bed. You can close the drapes and pin your blocks to them. Or use the shower curtain. Use your imagination.
• You can also just wing it. Random is good – but I haven’t met many people who are actually happy with random.
• Vertical Sashing
• Once you are happy with the layout sew a brown “stick” to the right side of each block in each row.
• Sew the rows together:
• (block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)(block, stick)
• Sew a stick to the left side of the leading block
• Iron seams toward the brown sashing.
• Horizontal sashing.
• You need to make 7 rows of horizontal sashing.
• Sew 5 matchsticks together along the skinny side with the setting block (head) pointing toward the right.
• Sew one head on the end of the last match stick.
• Iron seams toward the brown sticks.
• Place one matchstick row between each row of blocks.
• Attach horizontal sashing.
• Snuggle sashing seams and pin in place
• Iron seams toward horizontal sashing.

• Borders
• Inner border
• Measure your quilt’s length and width. Write it down.
• It should be something like 36 1/2″ x 43 1/2.
• Sew one 1 1/2″ border strip to each of the skinny ends.
• Iron seams toward the border.
• Trim excess.
• Sew the remaining three skinny strips together, end for end.
• Cut two strips from this that are the length of your quilt as it was when you wrote it down. (It should be 2″ shorter than the top is now.)
• Sew a 1 1/2″ setting square to the ends of each of these strips. Iron seams toward the border strips.
• Snuggle corner seams together. Pin in place.
• Pin remaining length of borders in place.
• Sew on long borders.
• Iron seams toward border fabric.
• Outer border
• Measure your quilt’s length and width. Write it down.
• It should be something like 38 1/2″ x 45 1/2″, give or take.
• Sew 4 1/2″ border strips together end for end….making one very long and skinny strip.
• Cut 4 lengths from this strip that are equal to the measurements you just wrote down. (2 that are the length of the top and 2 that equal the width.)
• Sew short edges of the border on first.
• Iron seams toward the border.
• Sew a 4 1/2″ setting square to each end of each of the long strips. Iron seams toward the border strips.
• Snuggle corner seams together. Pin in place.
• Pin remaining length of borders in place.
• Sew on long borders.
• Iron seams toward border fabric.
• Layer and Quilt as desired.

1 crib or throw sized quilt, finished size: 46″ x 53″. A place to day dream away the long hot days of summer – a beach blanket for a tiny tot, a picnic spot for afternoon tea, a quilt to wrap up a water logged frozen child in.

Enjoy!

Cindy @ Tops to Treasures
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Staycations!

June already? It’s true. Summer is here and you’re going to need some sewing projects to keep you busy and maybe even entertain the kiddos home from school. Our Chefs have just the ticket with a month-long series of Staycation projects.

(P.S. Love that cute graphic up there? You can download that and many more Moda Fabrics wallpapers for your computer, tablet, and phone {here}.)

Opal Pillow

Welcome! This pillow was designed and created by Pippa from Pippa Quilts. It features the lovely hues of a Bella Charm Pack against a white background. The elegant modern design of the pillow is easy to stitch up in a couple hours and the envelope opening on the back, makes for easy cleaning. I like a nice big pillow, and this 26″ size is the perfect for lounging on the sofa with.

1 Bella Solids Charm Pack
3/4 Yards Bella Solids White
3/4 Yards Marble Flannel Pastel Grey
30″ Square piece of muslin
30″ Square piece of batting
1 26″ Square pillow form

1. Select 18 charms from your pack, whichever colors you like. Cut a 2 3/4″-wide segment from each of these charms. Set aside the leftover bits of the charms.

2. Sew together 2 of the 2 3/4″-wide charm pieces along their 5″-long side to create a two-toned square. Press the seam to one side. Repeat to create a total of 9 two-toned squares.

3. From the white fabric, cut 4 strips 3 3/4″ x 26″, and 12 strips 3 3/4″ x 5″. 

4. Decide how you would like to arrange your squares on the pillow top, following this arrangement as you continue piecing. Sew one of the 5″-long white strips to one side of a two-tone square. Press the seam toward the two-tone square. Repeat on the opposite side of the square, again pressing the seam toward the two-tone square.

                                     

5. Sew another two-tone square to this unit, then another white strip, continuing in this manner until you have 3 two-tone squares and 4 white strips pieced together, like so:

                                    

6. Sew a 26″-long strip to the top and bottom of this unit, pressing the seams toward the two-tone squares.

                                   

7. Create another unit of 3 two-tone squares and sew this to the above unit.

                                   

8. Sew another 26″-long strip to the bottom of this unit. In the same manner as above, add another row of two-tone squares, and the final 26″-long strip. The pillow top is now complete.

                                  

9. Layer the muslin, batting, and pillow top (right-side up). Baste the three three layers together and quilt as desired; I stitched a simple stippling pattern with white thread. When done, trim away the excess batting and muslin.

10. From the flannel, cut two pieces that are approximately 20″ x 34″. Fold in a 1/4″ inch along one of the 20″ sides of one of the pieces, then fold in another 1/4″ and stitch just along the fold to secure it. Repeat with the second piece of flannel.

                                  

11. Lay one of the pieces of flannel right-side up with the folded edge toward the bottom, then lay the second piece of flannel on top with the folded edge toward the top and layered about 5″ on top of the first piece of flannel. Lay the pillow top on the flannel, right-side down and so the top folded edge runs along the middle of the pillow top. Pin together and stitch around the perimeter with a generous 1/4″ seam allowance.

                                             
12. Trim away the excess flannel and sew along the perimeter with a zigzag stitch, catching the raw edges.

13. Cut across the corners and turn the pillow right-side out, gently pushing out the corners and pressing the seams. Insert the pillow form, and voila!

 

Pippa Armbrester

{www.pippaquilts.com}

Star Spangled Sky Quilt

Hello!  It’s Jo and Kelli from Jo’s Country Junction with our latest project, “Star Spangled Sky”.  We originally designed this quilt thinking we would use Minick and Simpson’s Indigo Crossing line, but Moda’s sample room was out of that line so we decided to expand our horizons and work with batiks using Edyta Sitar’s Paint Box Batiks.  This is our first batik project.  Let’s just say that we will be working with batiks again.  We are offering a giveaway on our blog for a Paint Box Jelly Roll stop over to sign up to win.


We mixed it up a bit.  We used batiks from the Paint Box Batiks line and the white is from the PB&J line.  We gave approximate yardage in case you can’t find the jelly rolls.

4 Blue Jelly Rolls (or approximately 3 yards assorted blue fabric, cut into 2.5” strips)

2 Red Jelly Rolls (or approximately 1.25 yards assorted red fabric, cut into 2.5” strips)

2 yards neutral (creamy grunge 30150 174 Moda #1)—PB&J fabric line

2 yards blue (42100 15) Paint Box Batiks

2 yards red (42100 23 Plum) Paint Box Batiks

8 yards backing Paint Box Batiks

Block Size:  16” finished

Quilt Size:  90.5” x 90.5”

Cutting Instructions:

White–2 yards neutral (creamy grunge 30150 174 Moda #1 from PB and J Fabric Line)

            1.  Cut 10- 4.5” strips.

                        -Use 2 strips to cut a total of 16- 4.5” squares

                        -Remaining strips will be used in the border

Blue–2 yards blue (42100 15)

1.  Pull 10 blue jelly roll strips from each of the 4 blue jelly rolls for 40 total (If using the Paintbox Batiks fabric line, you will need to use the bluish/green strips)

2.  Cut 26- 2.5” strips

            -Use 20 strips to cut a total of 40- 16.5” rectangles

            -Use 2 strips to cut a total of 32- 2.5” squares

-The remaining 4 strips will be used in making the blocks.  These strips can be set aside with the jelly roll strips.

3.  Cut 1- 4.5” strip

            -Sub-cut this strip to yield a total of 4- 4.5” squares

Blue Block Pieces—40 jelly roll strips + 4- 2.5” strips

1.  Using 22 of the strips, cut a total of 64- 2.5” x 12.5” rectangles—You will get a total of 3 rectangles from each strip.

2.  Use 16 strips to cut a total of 64- 2.5” x 8.5” rectangles—You will get a total of 4 rectangles from each strip. **Set aside remaining length not used**

3.  Use the remaining 6 strips and the remainder of the previous lengths, cut a rotal of 64- 2.5” x 4.5” rectangles—You will get a total of 8 rectangles from each full strip.

Red–2 yards red (42100 23 Plum)

            1.  Pull 8 red jelly roll strips from each of the 2 red jelly rolls for a total of 16 jelly roll strips.

                        -Cut the 16 strips into a total of 249- 2.5” squares

            2.  Cut a total of 27- 2.5” strips

                        -16 will be used for the border

                        -10 will be used for the binding

                        -Cut the remaining strip to yield 8- 2.5” x 4.5” rectangles

Quilt Instructions: **Important—Make sure that your quarter inch seam is a TRUE quarter inch seam**

1.  Make 16 blue background stars.  -White star, red corners, blue background
     To  make one:
     Put a white 2.5″ square on the corner of a blue 2.5” x 4.5” rectangle.  Sew on the diagonal.  Trim.  Press.

Put a white 2.5″ square on the opposite corner.  Sew on the diagonal.  Trim.  Press.

Assemble the pieces in rows as shown.

Sew the rows together to create the star.

           
2.  Make 4 corner stars using the above method changing the colors as shown below. -Blue star, red corners, 2 red backgrounds, 2 white backgrounds

3.  With a quarter inch seam, sew an 8.5” rectangle to opposite sides of the white star blocks.  Press to the rectangle. 

4.  Attach a red square to each end of the remaining 32 rectangles.  Press to the rectangle.

5.  Attach these strips to the opposite sides of the block and press to the rectangle.

6.  Repeat process adding another row around the block. Sew a 12.5” strip to opposite sides of the block.  Press to the rectangle.

7.  With right sides together, sew a red 2.5” square to each end of the 32 remaining 12.5” strips.  Press to the rectangle.8.  Sew to the remaining opposite sides of the block.  Press to the rectangles.

You will need 16 of these blocks.

9.  Layout blocks and sashing as shown.  Sew into rows.  Sew the rows together.  Assemble center of the top and press well.

10.  Join the 8- 4.5” strips on the diagonal.  Repeat with 16- 2.5” red strips, joining on the diagonal.

11.  Layout the assembled top.  Cut a total of 4 white strips the width of the quilt.  Cut a total of 8 strips from the red fabric.12.  Sew a red strip on either side of the white strip.

13.  Attach a pair of pieced borders to opposite sides of the quilt. 

Attach the corner star blocks to opposite ends of the remaining 2 pieced border strips.

14.  Attach the completed borders to the quilt.

15.  Quilt as desired.  Bind using the remaining 10- 2.5” red strips.

If you would like to see how we quilted our version and to sign up to win the jelly roll, stop over to our blog, Jo’s Country Junction.

Quilt Size:  90.5” x 90.5”

Jo and Kelli Kramer
{www.joscountryjunction.com}

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