Midnight Stars Quilt


Hi All! I’m Heather and I’m eager to share this tutorial with you! I’m a big fan of Basic Grey. When I heard that they were coming out with Little Black Dress 2, I knew exactly what I wanted to do with this beautiful fabric.  Midnight Stars is 4 super sized stars, combined to make a nice sized lap quilt. 

2 Layer Cakes of Little Black Dress 2
5/8 yards black print accent
5/8 yards black dot on cream binding

4 yards backing.fabric
Batting, at least 80″x 80″

Start by taking your layer cakes and separating them into dark and light piles. For this quilt, we’ll need 32 of the darkest prints and 32 of the lightest prints. Reserve the more “medium” prints for the backing. In this quilt, I wanted a little more black in the quilt, so I cut two additional 10” squares from the black accent fabric.
Tip if you’d like to make this quilt with another fabric line, use one layer cake and choose 36 layers for the stars. Take 2 ¾ yards background fabric and cut into 36 10” squares. 
Take all 32 dark squares and cut in half on the diagonal. Take remaining 18 light squares and cut in half on the diagonal.

Choose 14 Light squares for the four corners of each star. Where the four stars come together in the center, you’ll only use 2 squares, cut in half. Lay these all out on your design wall (or, design floor in this case!) 
Using the finished quilt as your guide lay out your quilt top. Take your time, making sure to balance light and dark, until you’re happy with your layout. For the center square within a square, cut 4 grey layers in half on the diagonal and arrange as shown. I think it took me almost as much time to arrange the top as it did to sew it!

Here’s how one quarter of the quilt should look before it’s sewn. (This block is actually made from leftovers from the layer cakes. It will become part of the quilt back.)
Now to sew!
Use a ¼” seam allowance throughout. It doesn’t need to be a perfect 1/4 inch, but a consistent seam allowance will give you great results!

Take each of your half square triangle pairs, and sew together on the diagonal. This is a long bias edge, so handle carefully. Press seams to one side, to the dark when possible. I usually will sew 4 of these at a time, chain stitching. 

Trim each hst unit to 9.5” Use the diagonal line on your ruler to trim each block accurately. After sewing, pressing and trimming, I return the blocks to my design wall (or design floor in this case!) I find that if I do more than 4, there’s a good chance things will get turned around. We don’t want that!
Trim all of the 10″ corner layer cake squares down to 9.5″.
Your can piece this in one of two ways: you can piece it as four giant blocks, or you can go row by row.
For our sample, I sewed row by row.  Sew column 2 to column 1, chain stitching. After sewing these, I returned them to the design floor (again, I really don’t want to mess up the order!) Continue to sew column 4 to 3, 6 to 5 and 8 to 7. Continue to sew until all the rows are sewn together. Once all the rows are sewn, to keep things in order, I take a pin and place it in the top left corner of each row. I alternate which way I place the pin, so I know which way to press the seams. For the odd rows, press one way. Press the evens in the opposite direction. I do pin where the blocks line up. Where the star points meet, go slowly, pin, pin, pin and take your time. Try not to cut off any points. Are mine perfect? Not all of them, but most of them are close enough.
If you prefer, you can sew each large block first, then sew the four blocks together. 
Sew your blocks together in rows. Again, alternate the direction in which you press the rows, so that you’ll have nice interlocking seams when you sew the rows together to complete the four blocks. 
Sew your four large star blocks together.
Hey, guess what? You finished the top! My dog, Chase thinks you’re awesome!

Want to make a fancy backing to go with?
Take the remaining 10 squares leftover from the top. I cut 4 10” squares from my black accent fabric, then chose 4 matching black dot/tan squares and 8 grey squares. Lay them out as above, and sew the block.
From you backing fabric, cut one piece of fabric 36.5” x width of fabric. (Your star should measure 36.5”. If your star measures differently, use that measurement.) Cut this into two pieces. I didn’t want my star to be exactly centered, so I cut at approximately 30”, making two pieces: 36.5″ x 30″ and 36.5″ x 12″. Sew these pieces to each side of your star.  From remaining backing fabric, cut two pieces 45” x width of fabric. Remove selvages, and sew these pieces together, to create one piece of fabric approximately 45” x 82″. Cut this unit into two pieces along the long length. Again, I didn’t want mine centered, so mine are about 30” x 82” and 15” x 82”. Sew the 30” piece to the top of the star unit, and the 15” piece to the bottom of the star unit.  Your backing is finished!

Layer your quilt top and back with batting. Baste and quilt as desired. Thanks to my friend Maria O’Haver for doing such a beautiful job on the quilting!
Cut binding fabric into 8 pieces 2.5” x width of fabric. Join on the diagonal to create double fold binding. Attach to top of quilt. Hand sew to back of quilt.

My favorite quilt photo shoot location!
Woo, woo! A new quilt!

You did it! 
Thanks for following along with me. I’d love for you to stop by my blog and say “hi”!

1 Midnight Stars Quilt, 72″x 72″


Heather Kojan

Candy Wishes Quilt

Hello and Happy New Year to all you Moda Bake Shop fans from all of us over at Jo’s Country Junction! The gals from Moda are always challenging us Chefs to come up with projects relating to a theme. We were challenged to work with Moda Candy packs. I am not a gal that does many small projects so I extended the challenge to come up with a quilt. This projects, Candy Wishes, is the result. The quilt is VERY quick and great for beginners or those who are teaching someone to quilt. We have a giveaway going on over at our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, for two Moda Candy packs to get you started on your own quilt.


2 Moda Candy packs
4 yards background fabric
1 yard inner border and binding fabric
5 yards backing fabric

 
CUTTING
From the background/outer border fabric:
Cut two 54 1/2″ long pieces from the length of the fabric. Subcut 9 pieces measuring 6½” x 54½”
Cut 9 strips measuring 2½”  x WOF. Subcut into 56 pieces measuring 2½” x 6½”
Cut 7 strips measuring 3½” x WOF for the outer border

From the inner border fabric: 
Cut 7 strips measuring 1½” x WOF

From the binding fabric:
Cut 7 strips measuring 2½” x WOF

CONSTRUCTION
Select 48 of the bright squares from the candy packs. I opted to not use the ones with a light background. Combine 6 candy squares with 7 pieces of 2½” x 6½” background fabric shown. Make 8 of these strips.

Sew the 8 candy strip sets to 9 strips of 6½” x 54½” background fabric as shown.

Sew the inner border strips together end-to-end. Measure the sides of your quilt top and cut 2 strips. Pin carefully and sew to left and right sides of the quilt top. Press. Measure the top/bottom of the quilt top and cut 2 strips. Pin carefully and sew a strip each to the top and bottom.

Repeat the above process with the 7 strips measuring 3½” x WOF for the outer border.

Piece the backing together. Sandwich the top, batting, and backing. Quilt as desired.

If you want to see what I did for a quilting motif, come of over to my blog and check it out. Bind with the 2½” red binding strips.


63″ x 77″ Quilt

Remember to stop over to our blog, Jo’s Country Junction, for you chance to win 2 Candy Packs to get you started on making your own quilt.

Jo Kramer
{www.joscountryjunction.com}

Table Top Turkey Trot

Hello! Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and a Joyous New Year to you! Things have been quiet recently at my online home at Sewing by Moonlight, but I hope you will come visit anyway.

I had hoped to have this project ready to post for you by Thanksgiving, but it seems my reality does not allow for a one week project turn around time. So, here we are, just in time for Christmas, a Thanksgiving table runner.

The turkey is ready. She even wore her Santa hat for the festivities!

1 Layer cake – I used Floral Gatherings by Primitive Gatherings for Moda
1 1/4 yards backing fabric
1/2 yard of coordinating fabric for binding
Fusible web for appliqué
20″x47″ piece of battting
Template for dresden feathers and turkey body

Click {here} to dowload dresden feather and turkey body templates. The templates are also available in the Printer Friendly Version at the end of the post.

Embroidery floss for turkey eyes and beak, and embroidery needle

1. Determine the layout of your table runner. 
Alternate placing two squares together (these will be the maple leaf blocks) with single squares (these will be the background color for your dresden turkeys. This table runner has 5 turkey dresdens and 5 maples leaves, but you could easily make it longer or shorter.

2. Cut the fabrics for your maple leaf blocks.
Stack the two fabrics for the maple leaf block together, and cut as shown in the diagram below. Following this cutting diagram will ensure that you maximize the fabric in each 10-inch square.

2a. Begin by cutting a 3.5 inch strip from one side. Sub-cut two 3.5 inch squares from this strip. Save the remaining 3.5 x 3 inch piece to use for dresden feathers. 

2b. From the remaining 6.5 x 10 inch piece, cut across the width 5.5 inches from the edge. Sub-cut this piece into a 5.5 inch square and a 1 x 5.5 inch strip.

2c. Finally, cut one additional 3.5 inch square from the last piece of the layer cake square. Save the leftover 3 x 4.5 inch piece to use for dresden feathers. Add the final 3.5 x 1 inch strip to your scrap bin.

3. Create the maple leaf block. 
Use the pieces you just cut for the maple leaf block.

3a. Place the two 5.5 inch squares right sides together. Sew 1/4 inch from the edge all the way around the perimeter. Cut the square apart along both diagonals into four sections. Iron each piece open and trim the half square triangles to 3.5 inches.

3b. Cut one of the 3.5 inch squares of the leaf background fabric in half along the diagonal. Sew the 1 x 5.5 inch strip of leaf foreground fabric into this piece for the leaf stem.

3c. Arrange the block units into a maple leaf shape. Sew the block together and trim to 9.5 inches.

4. Create the dresden feathers
Using the template you downloaded above (under Ingredients), cut out the dresden pieces. Each turkey will require 12 dresden feathers. Since we have 5 turkeys in this table runner, I needed 60 dresden pieces. Use the unused pieces you saved from cutting out the leaves as well as additional layer cake squares.

4a. Fold each dresden piece length-wise and stitch 1/4 inch from the edge of longer width (not the longest side, that’s the length. Rather the longer of the two shorter sides. Clear as mud? See below.) This is an excellent opportunity for chain piecing.

4b. Trim the corner of each piece, flip the stitched side toward the inside to create a point and iron the piece flat so the point is centered.

4c. Sew 12 dresden pieces into a partial circle. Press the two raw edges 1/4 inch in to the wrong side.

4d. Trim the background square for the turkey to 9.5 inches. Fold in half and press. Open the square, fold in half the other direction and press again.

4e. Align your partial dresden circle so it is centered horizontally on the background square and two dresden pieces on each side fall below the horizontal center line. Pin the dresden in place and edge stitch all the way around.

5. Add a turkey body appliqué to your dresden feathers. 
Using the template, create an appliqué body for each turkey. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on your fusible web and arrange the body so the head is centered and the body covers the raw edges at the center of your feathers dresden.

Use a tight zigzag stitch around the turkey body, or use another appliqué method of your choice.

If desired, add features (eyes, beak) to your turkey faces with embroidery floss or your sewing machine.

6. Arrange your maple leaf and turkey blocks in an alternating pattern. Stitch together. 

7. Use 10 of the remaining layer cake squares to create a backing for your table runner. 
Layer the runner top, batting, and backing together. Quilt and bind as desired.

One autumn appropriate table runner, made up of ten 9-inch finished maple leaf and dresden turkey blocks, measuring 18 x 45 inches.

Em Komiskey
{sewingbymoonlight.com}

Snuggles Plus Quilt


I am so happy to be returning to the Moda Bake Shop with this quick-to-make but amazing little quilt! I blog over at www.mamaspark.blogspot.com, and I would love you to stop over and visit!

I have to say that I LOVED working with the Snuggles fabric by Moda.  It was a dream to use and my quilter loved it too!  This turned out a perfect size at 45″ X 50″ to use as a baby quilt or a lap quilt. You could make it larger with just a few adjustments too.

I hope you enjoy making this as much as I did.  Let’s get started!

  • 2-Sphere Charm Packs (1540PP)
  • 2 yards 60″ Snuggles (60000 43) Aqua For top and backing
  • 1/2 yard Sphere (Teal 1541 20) for binding 
  • 1/4 yard Bella Solids Feather (9900 127 ) This is a really, really light gray.
  • Cotton Batting
  • Thread 

  • Choose 48 Charms for the center of the quilt.  Ten of these will be used to make the plus blocks. 
  • Choose 22 additional blocks for the 2 side borders, 11 for each side.  I chose to leave most of the yellow out because I wanted an icy looking quilt to go with my aqua Snuggles. 
  • Cut Twenty 1.5″ x 6″ strips from your Feather solid.  These will be used to make the + in the plus blocks.  

Making the Plus blocks:

After you have chosen your 10 charm squares, cut them in half.  You should have two halves that measure 2.5″ x 5″.

Lay one 1.5″ x 6″ strip between the 2 cut halves of the charm square

Sew strip to one half of the charm square

Trim the solid strip even with both sides of the charm square, it should be 5″.

Sew the other half of the charm you cut to this first unit making sure to align edges.
Cut the charm in half again at the 2.5″ alignment. (don’t worry about the other measurement)

Lay another 1.5″ x 6″ strip of your solid between your two cut halves. Sew to one of these halves.

Trimming even with the edge of the charm.  Don’t worry that they are not 5″ at this point, you will be trimming them up soon.  Sew this to the matching half and press.

Trim your plus block to a finished size of 5″.  You can see that when I used my 5.5″ ruler the plus lines up beautifully and made the trimming a snap!

This is what your finished plus blocks should look like.  I chose 10 plus blocks but you can make more if you like or use none at all for a really quick quilt!  If you make more you may need a little more of your solid!

I like to chain piece so I cut all my pairs and lined them up to sew at one time.

Yeah for chain piecing!!

Now comes the fun part!  Using a design wall begin to lay out your rows.  I changed mine around a LOT!  That’s part of the charm (get it?)

Once you are happy with the placement you can sew your charms into rows.

I pressed all my seams open so it would lie as flat as possible when paired with the Snuggles.

Next I cut the Snuggles that would alternate with the rows of charm squares. First I cut Five 5″ strips. Then  I measured my rows and they were 36.5″.  I then cut my Snuggles to fit my rows.  Please measure yours before you cut and use that measurement.

Once you have all your Snuggles cut to fit your quilt rows you can begin to pin your rows together and sew.

I pinned at every seam and with one in between.  I was not certain how the Snuggles would be to work with but it was just great!

Start with a charm square row then a Snuggles row.  There will be 5 of these sets.  The last row will be a charm square row. I wanted this to be easy for my long arm quilter to quilt so I thought I should not have the more stretchy fabric on the outside of the quilt.  Although she did tell me that the Snuggles was much easier to work with than some of the other comparable fabrics.

Once you have all your charms sewn to your snuggles you will have 5 of these sets.  Sew them together to make the center of your top, making sure to begin and end with a row of charms.

I put the top back on the design wall and added the charms I was planning on using for the borders in place.  This allowed me to move squares as necessary until I was happy with the final placement.

Alternately you could do this when you lay out the top too.  Either way works!  Once you are happy with the placement of your side borders sew the charms into a row (remember they will go on the quilt vertically just in case you are using directional fabrics!)

Pin your borders to your top being careful to match the intersecting seams as you do so.  Sew your borders to your top.

Your top is now complete and ready to sandwich and quilt!
I chose large intersecting circles to echo the design of the Sphere fabric. 
  • For binding cut your strips from the teal Sphere fabric at 2.5″ (or as you desire).  
  • Join the strips, and bind using your favorite binding method.
  • Quilt, bind and ENJOY!  You just finished a great little quilt!

This pattern makes a 45″ x 50″ quilt.

I hope you have enjoyed my tutorial.  I would love to hear what you think!
I really enjoyed making this quilt and would love you to stop by my blog and visit! www.mamaspark.blogspot.com
In addition, I had a lot of fun tromping around in the snow with my friend, Robin, getting photos of this little quilt too.  = )
If you make one of these I would love to see it!  Please add it to my Flickr group or look me up on Instagram (mamaspark59) and post a photo there so I can see it!

~ XOP~
Pamela Lincoln
www.mamaspark.blogspot.com

13 in 2013

Happy New Year, Moda Bake Shoppers! Oda May compiled a list of our readers’ favorite projects from the past year: 13 in 2013. Recipe names and  links are below.

  1. Granny Square Quilt | Jolene Klassen {blueelephantstitches.blogspot.com
  2. Simply Style Stacked Squares Quilt |Erica Jackman {kitchentablequilting.blogspot.com}
  3. Marmalade Squares Quilt | LeAnne Ballard {everydaycelebrate.blogspot.com
  4. Honey Honey Layer Cake Quilt | Trish Poolson {notesofsincerity.blogspot.com
  5. Zig Zag Baby Quilt | Amanda Castor {materialgirlquilts.wordpress.com
  6. Basic Math Quilt | Debbie Grifka {www.eschhousequilts.com}
  7. Oink a Doodle Moo (x) times Two..or Three | Jo and Kelli Kramer {www.joscountryjunction.com}
  8. Avalon Scrappy Summer Quilt | Trish Poolson {notes of sincerity}
  9. Chenille Baby Blanket |  Pamela Lincoln {www.mamaspark.blogspot.com
  10.  Read with Me Quilt | Melissa Corry {happyquiltingmelissa.blogspot.com
  11. Kissing Stars Quilt | Crystal Hendrix {hendrixville.blogspot.com}
  12. The Cake Clutch | Palak Shah {www.makeithandmade.com}
  13. Fancy Jelly Roll Lap Quilt |  Keera Job {www.livelovesew.com.au}

Hot Cross Candy Runner


Hello again!  This is Darci and Lacey from Pastthyme Patterns with a really quick and easy table runner project using those ever popular candy squares!!  This project comes just in time for the holidays.  It is fast project to complete for that last minute holiday gift. . .or final decoration on your holiday table.  Finished project measures approximately 12″ x 28″ in size.

 To follow more of our quilting adventures you can visit our website www.shadesofpast.com where you will find links to our Pastthyme Patterns collection, blog, Facebook page and online site where kits of this fun project can be found!!

 2 candy packs
1/4 yard- Binding
1/2 yard- Backing
1 roll- Chenille-It Blooming Bias (3/8″ width)

Begin by opening up those cute candy squares and laying them out in a 6 down by 14 across layout (as shown above)  Sew together the rows to create your table runner quilt top.

Now that our quilt top is sewn together it’s time to layer it up with your batting and backing.  (As you can see in our photo we spray baste our quilt tops–feel free to baste your runner to the batting and backing as you prefer!!)
Now we are going to add the Chenille-It. . .you know that fun fuzzy stuff!!  By putting this on the layered runner you will essentially be “quilting as you sew” the Chenille-It on. 
 Before I explain how to add the Chenille-It on the runner I want to point out a couple helpful hints.  Remember that just like the package states, the Chenille-It is cut on the bias.  It will stretch out if you pull on it while you sew, while I think over-stretching this is impossible for this project I suggest stretching it in moderation.  It is also spliced together so that you get one long continuous 25-yard roll.  You will notice that there is a “right” and “wrong” side to the splice.  Ideally you want that splice to be raw edges down but DO NOT WORRY if you end up getting your piece twisted and it ends up being right sides up.  When you rag up the Chenille-It, nobody will ever be able to spot where that splice is!!  (Trust us…we speak from experience!!) It’s not worth the ripping time!
 Now the fun part! Place your table runner on a nice, flat surface and grab your Chenille-It and scissors. Referring to the photo above you will notice that we opted to skip every other row.  We did this on purpose to sort of give this project a lattice effect.  You can pick any of the four corners you choose to begin with.  (I am going to direct you from the upper right)  Skip the upper right square. Place the start of your Chenille-It in the upper left corner of the second square and run it down, diagonally to the bottom second lower right square and cut flush.   Skip the next square. Again place the start of the Chenille-It in the upper left corner of the fourth square and run it down, diagonally to the bottom right corner of the fourth lower right square.  Now carefully bring your runner, with the Chenille-It strips over to your machine to be stitched in place.
Stitching of the Chenille-It is quite simple.  Make sure you use thread to coordinate with your Chenille-It color to help camouflage any stitches once the project is complete and simply stitch a straight seam down the center of your Chenille-It strip.  You do not need to backstitch at the beginning and end of the strip as the edges will be covered up in the binding.  Also don’t get to hung up on having your seam smack dab in the middle. . .if it’s a little off it will be just fine in the end as it will be masked by the ragginess.  Tip:  We find that because we are working with a 3/8″ width of Chenille-It that a quarter-inch sewing foot (or walking foot) works the best for sewing this stuff down.   When we use either of those feet we find that you don’t need to do any pinning because the foot holds the Chenille-It in place during the stitching.  Play around with it while you sew and do what works best for you!!
This is what your first Chenille-It strip will look like once you get your seam sewn.  As you can see my line isn’t perfectly straight. . .but is in flows through the center of the Chenille-It strip.  If yours looks like this, ya did well and it’s time to continue on!!
Continue to add Chenille-It strips like you just did in the steps above to the remainder of your table runner.  Make sure you skip a square in-between your Chenille strips.  When you are finished you should have something in front of you that looks like this.
Now if you are like me you will make a quick detour to the kitchen to grab a can of Coke and couple cookies or chips before grabbing the roll of Chenille-It again. . .
To finish up the runner top we are going to add some more Chenille-It.  You will note that we will be adding these going the opposite direction, but following the same format as last time.  For purposes of explaining I am going to direct you from the upper left corner, as shown above.
 Just like last time, you are going to skip the upper left corner.  Begin by laying the start of your Chenille-It strip on the lower left corner of the second square and roll it up diagonally to the upper right corner on the second square at the top and cut flush.  Again, you will skip a square.  Start the end of your Chenille-It strip at the lower left corner of the fourth square and again roll it up diagonally to the upper right corner of the fourth square at the top and cut flush.  Again, carefully bring your runner back to the sewing machine and stitch the Chenille-It strips in place.
Once you have those first two strips sewn you you should see something similar to this in front of you.  Continue to add strips to the project like you did in the steps above.  Again make sure you skip a square in-between your Chenille-It strips.
Once you have your Chenille-It strips all sewn down in place your table runner should look like the picture shown above.  Again, if it does, ya did well and you can trim off that excess batting and backing!!
Almost done!!  Now you get to add the binding.  Cut (3) 2 1/2″ strips for your binding.  Sew the binding onto your quilt top.  We chose to put it down hand, so if you choose to do that as well you might want to choose a movie (or TV show) and plop that binding on down. 
Now. . .the final step.  
Referencing a line from the movie “Leap Year” you can just “put it (bound table runner) in the wash.  It’ll be grand!”  Following the manufactures directions you will want to put it into the machine and wash it on a cold cycle.  You can pick up where you left off in that movie you were watching until the machine is done washing.  When the washer is done, simply toss it into the dryer and dry on a warm setting.  Finish up that move just in time for the dryer to end it’s cycle and check out your new project!
Your yield will be one “Hot Cross Candy” runner. . .perfect for a holiday gift or accessory to your table!  Your table runner will measure 12″ x 28″ upon completion.
Remember that the sky is the limit with colors.  Chenille-It comes in all sorts of fun colors to accent any project from Kansas Troubles to Bonnie & Camille and any other Moda designer’s color palate in-between!!

See?!  Even Nature’s Christmas by Sandy Gervais makes up a cute runner!

Darci Schipnewski
{www.shadesofpast.com}

Candy Bars and Candy Boxes Pillows


Hi All! I’m Heather and I blog at here.  I hope Santa left you some candy (Moda Candy, that is!) in your stocking, because we’re going to make some pillows today.
To make 2 pillows, you’ll need 2 Moda Candy packs, 2 fat quarters background fabric and 2 fat quarters pillow backing fabric.


2 Moda Candy Mini Charm Packs (From Outside In by Malka Dubrawsky)
2 Fat Quarters Background Fabric (Seed Grey)
2 Fat Quarters Print Fabric (one for each pillow back)
2 20″ squares of batting (optional)
For each pillow, one 18″ zipper (Longer is fine! I used a 20″ and trimmed down.)
Glue stick
2 18″ pillow forms

Let’s start with Candy Bars.
On you design space (wall, floor, table, whatever you have) refer to the picture and arrange your candy pieces into groups of three. Move them around until you’re happy with your arrangement. These will make your pieced “bars.”  (See that piece in the top right corner ~ the one that’s the same as the background fabric? If that bugs you, see *** below.)
From the background fabric, cut five 2.5” x 22” wide strips. Sub cut these strips into 2.5” x 6.5” long pieces. You’ll use 13 for this pillow top. Reserve the extra 2 for the Candy Boxes pillow.
Place the background candy bars into place on your design space. Your layout should look like this:
***Take your backing fat quarter of fabric. Cut it down to 18”x 19”. Set aside. See that nice little remaining strip? Cut yourself one extra 2.5” square for the Candy Bar Pillow. 
Whew, crisis averted.
Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew the three piece units into candy bars. (Chain piecing makes this go super fast!)
Sew the rows together. Press seams away from the background fabric.
Sew your rows together, matching seams.
Your pillow top should look something like this:
Candy Boxes
From the background fabric, cut four 2.5” x 22” strips. Sub cut these strips into six 2.5”x 6.5” bars and thirteen 2.5” x 2.5″ squares.
Take your candy pieces and background bars and squares and arrange as below (use your reserved two background bars from the Candy Bars Pillow.) Or, if you’re only making the Candy Boxes pillow, cut an additional 2.5” x 22” background strip and sub cut into 2.5” x.6.5” bars. 
Uh oh, wait a minute. You’re two candy pieces short of a full candy box. (Or three, if you count that one background piece of candy.)
Okay, nobody panic. Here’s what we’re going to do. Take your second piece of backing fabric. Trim as in *** above, and cut a two additional 2.5″ square candy pieces (also cut one from the other backing fabric for more variety.)
Okay, go back to arranging the blocks. You should have five 9 patch blocks with a seed grey center. You should have four alternating grey seed blocks with a patterned center. Sew the nine patch blocks together in rows. Press. Sew the rows together. Press.  For the alternating blocks, sew a background square to each side of a patterned square. Press. Sew the rows together. You should now have nice 6.5” blocks. 
Sew your blocks together in rows. Press. Sew rows together. Press.Your pillow top should look similar to this:
And here’s both pillow tops together.
Decision time. To quilt, or not to quilt. Your choice. I decided to do some simple straight line quilting. I like the added structure and texture it adds. However, if you’re in a time crunch or just not feeling it, skip the quilting. 
Time to make the pillow backs. We’re making a hidden zippered back with awesome flap/flange back. Complicated title, simple to make.
From your background fabric, for each pillow cut a piece 4” x 18”. Fold in half, length wise, wrong sides together and press. This is your flap/flange.
Take your backing fabric. Cut in half, to make two pieces 9.5” x 18”. (Or, cut into two pieces 6″ x 18″ and 13″ x 18″ or wherever you want your flap/flange to be!) 
Take your zipper and run a small line of glue from your glue stick on the top side of the zipper.  Flip the zipper over on top of the flap fabric. The zipper will now be right side facing the flap with the glued edge meeting the raw edges of the back and flap. The glue stick gives the whole unit a little more stability, a little less “wiggle room.” I use Wonder Clips to hold the layers together.
Your zipper should be face down, aligned at the left. 
At you sewing machine, switch to your zipper foot. Sew the length of the zipper. When you get close to the zipper head, leave your needle down and raise your presser foot. Wiggle that zipper head down a bit, past where you’ve already sewn to get it out of the way. Continue sewing the zipper.
Press well.
Use your glue stick and glue the remaining top side of the zipper. Lay the top half of the pillow back on the bottom half of the pillow back, right side together, and matching the edge of the zipper with the cut edge of the backing. Sew as above. Press well. You now have a pillow back with hidden zipper and awesome flap/flange! Yeah you!
Finishing: Trim your pillow top and pillow back to 18″ square. Lay your pillow top, right side up. Lay your pillow back on top of pillow top, right side down. Make sure your flap/flange is laying down nicely to cover your zipper. Unzip your zipper 3/4 of the way (this is your turning/escape hatch!) Pin all the way around. Stitch around all four sides. Clip the corner of your pillow to reduce bulk. Turn right side out. Press. Stuff with pillow 18″ pillow form (it should be nice and snug!) 
Zip up your zipper and admire your handiness. Go show the rest of the family how clever you are!


2 Deliciously Easy Pillows!


Thanks for sewing along with me. I’d love for you to stop by my blog and say “hi”!

Heather Kojan
{www.heatherkojan.blogspot.com}

Honky Tonk Mini Charm Quilt



Merry Christmas, Y’all.   I just love working with the mini charm packs, don’t you?  You can purchase a complete kit for this project from Red Rooster Quilts.  Click here to order.  Enjoy this mini charm quilt.

2 – Honky Tonk Mini Charm Packs
Background: 1/4 yard Moda Bella Solid Snow #9900 11
inner border: 1/4 Moda Marble
border:  1/3 yard Honky Tonk #37087 12
binding: 1/4 yard Honky Tonk #37083 17
backing: 3/4 yard
batting: 25″ x 28″


3 1/2″ square ruler

From the background fabric cut 3 – 2 1/2″ strips.  Cut 30 – 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″.  Cut 30 – 2 1/2″ squares.

From the 2 1/2″ squares of background fabric and from one mini charm pack, cut 30 squares in half on the diagonal like this:

 From one mini charm pack, cut 30 squares in half to make two rectangles 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ like this:

Using one background and one print of 1 1/4″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles, sew together like this:

Press toward dark.

 Sew the other print rectangle on like this:

From matching print fabric, sew triangle on one end like this:

 Sew other matching print triangle on other end like this:

 Press toward dark.

 Trim off tails:

 Add one background triangle like this:

 Then sew on the other background triangle on the opposite side.  Trim to 3 1/2″ square.

Layout blocks in 6 rows with 5 blocks each.  Sew blocks together into rows.  Sew rows together.

Inner Border: Cut 2  strips 1 1/2″ wide.  Sew inner border on to sides first then top and bottom.

Outer Border: Cut 3 strips 3 1/2″ wide  Sew inner border on to sides first then top and bottom.

Layer with backing and binding.  Quilt as desired.

Binding:  Cut 3 – 2 1/4″ strips.  Sew on binding with desired method.

1 mini charm quilt approximately 23″ x 26″.

Look what you can make if you change the color placement.  How about this cute arrow with some hearts for Valentine’s Day?

Please visit us at www.redroosterquilts.com or stop in our store.

Red Rooster Quilts
48 Corbins Mill Dr.

                                                                  Dublin, OH  43017

614-734-9007


Karen O’Connor
{www.redroosterquilts.com}

Holiday Baking

Happiest of holiday wishes from all of us at the Moda Bake Shop! If you didn’t have a chance to sew anything for Christmas, now is the perfect time to start working on something for next year. Here are a few projects to inspire you:

And don’t forget our latest book – Sweet Celebrations with the Moda Bake Shop Chefs – which is filled with holiday inspiration for the whole year.

Candy Stars Mini Quilt


Hello everyone!  My name is Chrissy Lux and I co-own Sew Lux Fabric with my mom.  I am really excited to be back on the Moda Bake Shop sharing another project with you today.

Moda Candy precuts (mini charms) are super cute and so easy to collect!  Here’s a fun & quick mini quilt project that could easily be enlarged to make a bigger version – just add more candy!

Fabric Needed:
76 mini charms *
1 yard solid for Background (Bella White Bleached 9900 98)
1 yard for backing (Mixed Bag Dots 32870 21)
1/4 yard for binding (Bella Etchings Slate 9900 170)

(*I used 4 packs of the New Bella Solids, which have 30 mini charms.  But most print collections have 42, so you may only need 2 candy/mini charm packs if you are going for a scrappy look.) 

Tools Needed: 
Machine & basic sewing supplies

Use a 1/4″ seam throughout. 
Step 1: Prep Background & Borders: 
From the solid background, cut the following: 
TWO 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into twenty (20) 2.5″ squares
THREE 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into twenty-eight (28) 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangles
TWO 2.5″ x WOF strips – SUBCUT into eight (8) 2.5″ x 8.5″ rectangles
FOUR – 3.5″ x WOF strips for borders
For this project, we’ll make two blocks – a variable star and a simple 4 patch.  You’ll need four 4-patch blocks and five star blocks.  
Step 2: Sort your Squares
Sort your candy squares into piles with five piles of 12 squares (corners & center) and four piles of four squares (middle of top & bottom row and left and right columns) as shown. 
Since I was using solids, I sorted mine by color into a ROYGBIV type of color wheel.  Because of this, I took extra time while sewing to make sure I kept things in the correct order and placement.  If you are using prints to create a scrappy look, you can certainly sew a little more carefree!  🙂 

Step 3: Make the 4-Patch Units
The 4-patch blocks are easy to whip together.  Sew two sets to two squares together.  Press in opposite directions.

Then stitch them together.

Repeat this process for the four 4-patch units. Next, we’ll add borders to complete the units.

Sew a 2.5″ strip to the top and bottom of your 4-patch unit.  Press toward the border/away from the 4-patch.

Then add the 2.5″ x 8.5″ sides.  Press toward the center.  Repeat to complete all four 4-patch units.

Step 4: Make the Variable Star Units
For these blocks, you will start by making a 4-patch for the center.   Then we’ll make and add wonky geese on the sides to create the star.

Place one candy square on top of one 2.5″ x 4.5″ rectangle. (If using prints, remember to place right sides together!)  Sew on the diagonal, being sure that when you fold the square over, it will cover all of the background rectangle.

Trim away excess fabric and press toward the candy square.

Next, add another candy square opposite of the first.  Sew along the diagonal, trim away excess and press towards the candy square fabric.
TIP:  Since these are so small, I just finger press to create a crease down the diagonal as a sewing guide. If you prefer to mark with a pencil or disappearing ink, feel free. 

Trim your completed wonky geese unit to 2.5″ x 4.5″.

Assemble the star, by sewing two geese units to the top and bottom – press toward the center.

Then sew 2.5″ background squares to the sides of the remaining two geese units, pressing toward the background squares.

Then sew the side units to the center, and press away from the center.

Step 5: Assemble the Top
Now, its time to assemble your quilt top!   Start by making a large 9-patch with your 4-patch and variable star blocks.

Then add border strips to the sides and then the top and bottom.

Layer and quilt as desired.  Finish by adding binding.  (Need help binding?  MBS tutorial here.) 

You can easily make this project with prints – here is a mock up of what it might look like in Scrumptious by Bonnie & Camille.

Hope you enjoyed this project!


1 Sweet Mini Quilt approximately 30 in x 30 in.

Chrissy Lux
{www.sewlux.blogspot.com