120-Minute GIft: Tea Party Tuffets

Brighten up your space with Vanessa’s happy little Tea Party Tuffets. Make them simple with just yardage or add a little patchwork fun with charm packs. There are so many lovely possibilities!

*Fabric is “Marmalade” by Bonnie & Camille

• 1 charm pack or 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Top

• 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Bottom

• 3/4 yard fabric for Tuffet-Side

• 1 Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern {see Printer Friendly file at bottom of post}

• 6 lbs polyester fiberfill

• 4-1/2 yards decorative trim or piping

• 4 yards HeatnBond non-woven fusible feather weight interfacing (20″ wide)

*Print out all pages of the Tea Party Tuffet PDF pattern. Be sure to print at 100% scale on regular 8.5 x 11″ paper and assemble according to pattern instructions.  

PLEASE NOTE: There will be small gaps in the pattern circle shape where the pages are taped together–this is okay! Do not trim or overlap the pages in an attempt to connect the lines.
 
Once all pages are taped together, cut out the pattern.

Tuffet-Top: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-top fabric. If using a charm pack instead of yardage, refer to the Patchwork Tuffet-Top instructions.
Tuffet-Bottom: Use the pattern to cut one circle from the tuffet-bottom fabric.

Patchwork Tuffet-Top: You will need 36 of the 42 charm squares; organize them into six rows with six charm squares per row.

Assuming 1/4″ seam allowance, sew the charm squares into their rows, pressing open the seams afterwards. Sew the rows together, lining up the seams and pinning in place beforehand. Press those seams open as well.

Center the pattern and cut out one circle for your tuffet-top.

INTERFACING OPTION: At this point, I like to iron a feather weight fusible interfacing to the back of each tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom piece. It makes the fabric feel a bit stiffer and gives an overall stability to the shape of the finished product that I really love! Not a requirement though.

EMBELLISHMENT OPTION: Another option is to embellish your tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces with some sort of trim. I’ll use pom-pom trim to demonstrate, but there are many trim options you could use!

In all likelihood, you will need to use a zipper foot to stitch your trim in place.  In general, you’ll want the seam allowance to be about 1/2″.  Because the pom-pom trim is so skinny, I’m going to lay it down 1/4″ in from the raw edge of the fabric, pom-poms on the inside.

Whatever trim you use, I sometimes find it helpful to remember that everything left of the needle/stitching is what is going to show.

Once you’ve sewn almost all the way around, cut the end of the trim to overlap with the beginning-piece and resume stitching it down.

TUFFET SIDE: From the tuffet-side fabric, cut two strips 12″ x WOF; subcut into two 12 x 37″ strips. (Iron fusible interfacing to the back of each if you’ve done it to the tuffet-top and tuffet-bottom pieces.)

 

To sew them into a tube: bring the 12 x 37″ strips right sides together, aligning the raw edges, and pin along the 12″ sides.

[Switch to a regular presser foot and] sew down the 12″ sides using 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 6-7″ gap unstitched in the center of one of those sides as indicated by the diagram below. (This is how we will turn our tuffet right-side out later).

Press open the seams. (Here is the side with the gap.)

 

Pin the edges of the tuffet-top to the top-side of the tube, right sides together. 

UNEMBELLISHED TUFFET: Sew the tuffet-top and tube together using 1/2″ seam allowance.

EMBELLISHED TUFFET: Re-install the zipper foot and sew the the tuffet-top and tube together using the same seam allowance used to sew the trim in place (approximately 1/2″). The easiest way to do this is just sew along the seam showing on the wrong side of the tuffet-top.  (I apologize I neglected to take a picture of this as it makes more sense than what I did–I lined the zipper foot up against the bulk of the pom-pom trim and [blindly] stitched with the tube-side fabric showing on top.)

 

Pin the tuffet-bottom to the other side of the tube, right sides together and repeat.

Turn the tuffet right-side out through the 6-7″ gap in the side.

Your tuffet will look quite sad and saggy without stuffing, so fill it! I stuffed mine pretty full so it would be nice and sturdy.

Once it’s full to your liking, fold the edges in at the hole and pin closed. (This is probably the toughest part of the whole project!) Stitch the hole closed by hand (I recommend a ladder stitch).

 An adorable tuffet!

Vanessa Goertzen
{lellaboutique.blogspot.com}

120-Minute Gift: Hugs and Kisses Quilted Table Runner

Quilt Top:
1 pkg. charm squares (I used a layer cake and trimmed them down to 5″ x 5″)
1/2 yd. white (a background fabric contrasting with your charm squares)
1/3 yd. inner border fabric

Binding:
1/3 yd. grey or coordinating fabric

Backing:
1/2 yd. grey or coordinating fabric (your runner will be reversible, so pick a fabric that looks great all by itself)

 Choose your favorite 16 squares from the charm pack. They need to be darker or bolder than your background fabric (my background fabric is white). Six of these 16 squares will be turned into X blocks, while the remaining 10 will become O blocks. If you have any large prints that you want to show off, set those in your X stack.

White Squares:
Cut your white or contrasting fabric into 20 5″ squares.

 Cutting the X Block:
Line up four X squares perfectly on top of each other. Cut a 3″ x 5″ rectangle, leaving you with another rectangle measuring 2″ x 5″, which you will set aside for a moment. Cut a 3″ square from your 3″ x 5″ rectangle. This is the center of your X block. Use the remaining pieces to cute 5 sets of 1 1/2″ squares. (You will use four of these squares in the X block and the fifth set of squares will be used in the outer border of the quilt.) Cut the remaining two charm squares the same way.

Cut 10 of your white 5″ squares in this same way as well.

Your X Block will be cut like this:

Cutting the O Block:

Line up four squares perfectly on top of each other. Just like with the X Block, cut a 3″ x 5″ rectangle, leaving you with another rectangle measuring 2″ x 5″. From your 3″ x 5″ rectangle, cut three rectangles measuring 3″ x 1 1/2″. From the 2″ x 5″ rectangle, cut one rectangle measuring 3″ x 1 1/2″. You will have a spare 1 1/2″ square that you can use in the outer border of the quilt. 

Cut 6 of your white 5″ squares in this same way as well.

Your O Block will be cut like this:

Cutting the Triangles:

With the remaining four white 5″ squares, cut across the diagonal, like this:

Cutting the Inner Border:

You will need 3 strips of the inner border, 1″ wide.

Cutting the Squares for the Outer Border:

Using the remaining uncut charm squares, come up with 130 little squares measuring 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″. 

Ready to Sew!

Start with your X Blocks. Lay out your block like a 9 Patch. THE CONSISTENCY IN SIZE OF YOUR SEAMS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT! Keep it right at 1/4″. Always. 

Sew into three small rows, like this:

Press the seams away from the lighter fabric and towards the darker fabric. Then sew those three little rows together:

If you’ve pressed your seams correctly and maintained that 1/4″ seam, your pieces should nest perfectly as you sew along. 

Press these seams toward the dark center of the X Block:

Your O Blocks will be done the same way, with the exception of the direction you press the seams. Always press away from the lighter colored fabric. 

   

 Lay out your blocks the way you like them.

Sew into rows.

Press the first row one direction, the second row in the opposite direction, the third the same direction as the first row, etc. Then sew your rows together, remembering to nest those seams perfectly together.

It’s time to square off your corners. You want each end of your runner to be perfectly square, while the sides of your runner need to meet at a 135 degree angle, if that makes any sense at all…Like this:

Now sew on the first edge of your inner border. Cut the ends of the border strip flush with the edges of your quilt.

There needs to be 1/4″ left on the long sides of your quilt, where the white triangles are.

Add the rest of your inner border, keeping the same things in mind while cutting the edges.

Press seams away from the quilt body, towards the inner border.

For the Outer Border, sew those 130 little squares together into one enormous strip. Then add this strip the same way you added your inner border. Pull the outer border snugly as you sew along to prevent having a wavy quilt edge. 

Press seams toward the inner border, away from the outer border.

Your quilt top is finished! Sandwich your top, batting and backing and quilt away. Finish off with your binding. (For an excellent binding tutorial, visit here.)

One table runner measuring approximately 16″ x 42″.

Leah Douglas

{thebuggspot.blogspot.com }

120-Minute Gift: Modern Log Cabin Tree Skirt

 

{A note from Oda May: This delightful tree skirt can be cut and pieced in a couple of hours. It will take you a bit longer to quilt and finish it.}

Hi!  It’s Lori from Lori H. Designs, and I am so happy to be sharing my first project here at Moda Bake Shop.  I started quilting/sewing in January of 2011 and have been hooked ever since!  For this project, I used Odds & Ends by Julie Comstock.  I really like how the colors read Christmas but it is still subtle.  I don’t know about you, but I love having homemade things in my home around the holidays.  This is the perfect project to spruce up your Christmas tree this year!

1 Jelly Roll (I used Odds & Ends by Julie Comstock)
1 yard of a coordinating solid for the sashing  (I used Bella Solids Ivory 9900 60)
1 1/2 yards of a coordinating print for the backing (I used Odds & Ends Rosebud 37044 12) 
44″ x 44″ piece of batting
3 buttons of your choice (I chose to make fabric covered buttons)

Set back 7 jelly roll strips that you will use for the binding.  Forget that you even have them while you are cutting your fabric for the log cabin blocks!!!  Put them in another room or even in a drawer!  Don’t cut them!!!!

Cutting Instructions:

From the Jelly Roll:
Choose 9 strips and cut 1 – 2 1/2″ x  2 1/2″ square from each strip.  You will end up with 9 – 2 1/2″ squares.
Choose 9 different strips and cut 1 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ piece from each strip.  You will end up with 9 – 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ pieces.

Gather all of your jelly roll strips and cut them down to 1 1/2″ widths.  Now cut the following pieces.  If you want a scrappy look, you will want your cuts to be from different fabrics.  For example, none of my 18 – 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ strips were the same print.  Mix it up, have some fun!

18 strips- 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″
18 strips- 1 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
18 strips- 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″
18 strips- 1 1/2″ x 6 1/2″
18 strips- 1 1/2″ x 7 1/2″
18 strips- 1 1/2″ x 8 1/2″
18 strips- 1 1/2″ x 9 1/2″
9 strips –  1 1/2″ x 10 1/2″

From the Coordinating Solid:
6 strips – 3″ x 10 1/2″
4 strips – 3″ x 35 1/2″
2 strips – 3″ x 40 1/2″

From the leftover backing material:
1 – 2″ x 20″ strip for the loops (I cut this after I had basted and quilted the tree skirt)

Piecing Instructions:

You are going to make the 9 log cabins blocks first.  I laid out all of my blocks before I started sewing to make sure that my colors were broken up evenly.  You will piece the block in the order of the letters.  Sew A to B.  Then sew C to the A/B section.  And so on.

For example.  I pieced A to B.

Next, I pieced C to the A/B section.

Then, I pieced D to the A/B/C section.  And it continues until you have finished the block.

The finished block should look like this.  Make 9.  They should measure 10.5″ x 10.5″.

Once you have all 9 blocks made, arrange them in a 3×3 arrangement that you like.  After they are in the order that you like, add the 3″ x 10.5″ strips.

Add the 3″ x 35.5″ strips to connect the rows.

To finish off the top, add the 3″ x 40.5″ strips to the left and right side.

Finishing Instructions:

Now that your top is finished, you will need to baste and quilt as desired.  I chose to do dense straight line quilting but you could be really creative!   Make sure you do NOT bind your project!

Here comes the fun part!  We are going to cut the tree skirt!

It’s time to add the loops!  Here’s how you make them!  Take your 2″ x 20″ strip and iron in half lengthwise.

Open up and iron both sides toward the center, like so.

Fold in half and iron.

Stitch lengthwise down the entire strip.

Cut three 5.5″ strips.

The last step is to fold them and iron.  On one of the strips, take both ends and fold down toward the center and iron.  Continue to do the same to the remaining two strips.

Now we will add the loops to the tree skirt.  Lay the three loops to the left of where you cut your tree skirt.  Space them out evenly.  Notice that the direction they are laid out.  

Stitch down all three loops an 1/8″ out from the cut.

Now it’s time to add the binding around the entire tree skirt.

The final step is to add the buttons.  I chose to use fabric covered buttons.  And there you have it, a finished tree skirt!

40″ x 40″ Tree Skirt

Lori Hartman
{www.lorihdesigns.com}

60-Minute Gift: Herringbone Hot Pads

Combine a herringbone pattern with the popular zig zag for a fun, unique pot holder and trivet that is self binding. Or use the blocks to make a quilt! Great for Christmas gifts, teacher gifts and using up extra charm packs!

• 1 Simply Color charm pack or charm pack of your choice
• 1 yard of fabric for backing or four 14×14 inch squares
• 1/2 yard batting or eight 10×10 inch squares
• 1/2 yard insul-bright Insulating material or four 10×10 inch squares

I’m so excited to be here! I’ve been making these hot pads like crazy! You can hop over to my blog, Melanie Dramatic, to see several other examples in various Moda lines along with a few other ideas of what you can do with this design!

You’ll start with one charm pack! (I cut down a layer cake to 5-inch squares since that’s what I had!)

Cut your charm pack into 1 1/2 inch strips.  From one charm pack you’ll get 3 ‘sets’ of strips.

I prefer to use one set at a time while sewing.  Set two groups aside and sort the first stack by color.  Having them sorted into color groups helps me make sure I’m evenly distributing the colors and patterns throughout!

Now it’s time to start sewing strips together using a 1/4 inch seam.

Alternating sides, continue to add strips.  (I finger press the seams down toward the bottom of the ‘V’ as I sew….although getting up to iron each seam during the process would be better exercise…)

Continue sewing until your first stack is gone!  You’ll have a really fun, colorful, long herringbone strip!

Iron the seams down (toward the bottom of the ‘V’). 

Square the top and cut two 11-inch sections.  (You will have left over.  Save that to start sewing your next strip set.)  Our hot pads will be 10 inches, but that little bit of extra length allows you to perfectly match seams.

Next you will trim off the extra on each side.  You want each rectangle to be 5 1/2 inches x 11 inches.  I match up the 2 1/2 inch mark on my ruler with the bottom/right ‘V’ for the first cut.  Then I rotate and cut the block to 5 1/2 inches width.

Pin your rectangles together at each seam. Seams will all face down. Do not worry about lining up the top and bottom.  Getting the seams to mach is more important!  Sew together with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.

Press center seam allowance open.

Trim your block to 10 inches x 10 inches.

You’ll need one 14x14inch piece of fabric for the back, two 10×10 inch squares of batting and one 10×10 inch square of Insul-bright insulation.  It is a lot of layers, but I really like the extra sturdy feel this gives the hot pad – plus with the Insul-bright and extra batting, I’m not afraid to pull something out of the oven! (If you’re going to use it solely for decoration, you could use one or two layers of batting only.)

Place the Insul-bright in between the two layers of batting and pin all layers together.  Spray basting also works well to hold everything in place.

Quilt as desired.  I love the look of following the seams with my 1/4 inch foot.

Carefully even batting and top layers ONLY if needed with scissors.  Next cut off the excess backing fabric so it is 1-inch larger than the top on each side.  The unit will measure 12×12.

Fold and iron the extra inch of backing fabric in half so that it meets up with the raw edge of your hot pad.  Then fold again to the top of the hot pad and secure in place.  (I was using bobby pins at this point but my new favorite method is using school glue to hold fabric in place. Simply set with a hot dry iron!)

Fold your corner diagonally so that it meets with the raw edge of the next side.  Then continue by folding that edge in half and then again up onto the hot pad, just as you did on the first side.  Continue working your way around the hot pad until all four sides are ready to sew.

Sew binding in place.  Get your stitching as close to the inside edge of the binding as you can.  And if you’re using bobby pins or other gadgets to hold the binding in place, please be sure to remove them as you sew!  (If you switch to glue, you won’t have to worry about that anymore!)

One charm pack will make four hot pads.  (Use your left over strip to start sewing another set for more hot pads!)  And don’t forget to come over to my blog to see them made in other Moda fabrics and a few other projects I’ve made with these fun blocks!  I have to say, I’m sorta in love with the quilt. 🙂

-Melanie
{MelanieDramatic}

30-Minute Gift: Patchwork Wine Bag

Hey, gang! I can’t tell you how thrilled I am to bring you (TADA!) my first ever project for Moda Bake Shop. My name is Mary Miller and I have a little table in the blogateria that I call Spoolhardy Girl . I hope you’ll come by and visit when you are finished here. (Pssst! Can you smell the giveaway I’ve got cooking? MMMM Modalicious, if you get my drift.)

I don’t have to remind you that the holidays are quickly approaching. Parties, cookie exchanges and chaos will ensue.  I am horrible about planning ahead for hostess gifts. I usually grab a bottle of wine and call it a day.  I happen to think wine is a perfectly lovely gift. If you ever want to give me wine, I’ll be more than happy to accept. But let’s gussy that bottle up a little, shall we?

One Mini Charm Pack of a Moda fabric of your choice. I used Marmalade by Bonnie and Camille.

One 2 1/2″ x 12.5″ (or even a bit more) strip coordinating fabric. I used Bella Solid Sunshine.
One 5″x 5″ square coordinating solid (also Bella Solid Sunshine)
One sharp #2 pencil

One 5″ x 5″ Fusible Fleece
One 5″ x 5″ square of freezer paper
Dritz Elastic Threading Tool
1/4″ presser foot (Highly recommended)

All seams are 1/4″

Let’s begin! Choose 25 individual squares from your mini charm pack and line them up in a 5 x 5 square grid like so:

Sew your rows together this way:

This picture is probably unnecessary, but I just learned how to make the little arrows and I wanted to show off.

Press your seam allowances open.

Next, sew your rows together, and press your seams open.

Take a minute to admire this pretty panel you’ve made, then set it aside for a bit.

Next we are going to work on your bag bottom. No, not your baggy bottom. I have my own baggy bottom I need to work on, I can’t help you there! Anyway, on to the bottom of your bag!
This is where your #2 pencil and your freezer paper comes into play.
Place your pencil so that it is flat up against your bottle of wine, and the point is headed directly downward.

Thank you to Mr. Wonderful for taking this picture!

Trace all the way around the bottle. Now, you could skip the freezer paper step and do this directly onto your fabric, but I have a heck of a time getting the pencil to write on the fabric, so I do it this way. I also don’t recommend using a washable fabric pen because they tend to be wider than a pencil and that puts the mark too far away from the bottle, making your bottom too big. We all know we don’t want bottoms that are too big!

Once you have your circle made, take a ruler and mark a dotted line 1/4″ away from your original line.

Bring your freezer paper template, your fusible fleece (if using) and your 5″ x 5″ piece of fabric to your ironing board. I really like the idea of using the fleece in this step because it will give your bag bottom added support and a little bit of cushioning (I’m not even going to go for the joke here. It’s just too easy).

Place the freezer paper template shiny side down onto your fabric. If you are using a printed fabric, you want the right side facing up. Press with a hot iron for about 10-15 seconds. turn this unit over so that the fabric is facing up and the paper is on the ironing board. Place your square of fusible fleece adhesive (bumpy) side down and press with a steamy iron for about 15-20 seconds.

You should now have a unit that looks like this:

Freezer paper fused to fabric which is fused to fleece.

Cut around your dotted line and remove the freezer paper. Set aside.

Next we are going to make a band for the top of your bag. Take your 2 1/2″ strip of fabric fold and press it in half lengthwise, WRONG sides together.

Bring your strip back to the panel that you made and lay it out open so that about an inch hangs off of each side.

Fold the short end of the fabric back on itself so that the fold is just barely over the edge of your panel.

Do the same for the other end of your strip. Press at the folds.

Bring your strip to the machine and top stitch both ends barely 1/8″ away from the fold.

Trim excess from the seam allowances.

Please forgive my nasty thread tangles. I was having an argument with my machine this day!

Fold lengthwise again wrong sides together and press.  Place your folded strip piece right sides together on top of your panel piece with raw edges aligned making sure that you have a bit of the top stitched ends sticking off the ends of your panel. Sew together. Press seam toward the panel.

If you want to give your bag a nice finished look top stitch about 1/8″ away from the seam you just made. This is completely up to you, and will only add decorative appeal to your bag.

Fold your panel in half right sides together and pin raw edges.

Begin stitching down this long side just below the seam created when you sewed your band on. You don’t want to sew the band shut, you’re going to need it in a minute! Back stitch at the beginning and ending of your stitching.

How cute is this sleeve!? If I could sew a shirt I would totally make a patchwork shirt just like this. Only I can’t, sew a shirt. I just took this picture to demonstrate that you have now sewn a nice tube.

Remember that circle we made with the fusible fleece? It’s time to sew it onto your tube. Yes. You are going to sew a circle onto a tube. I’m here to tell you, this is NOT hard. You can do this. Trust me. Take a deep breath and relax your shoulders. You are going to feel like a sewing goddess when I’m finished with you!

You want to pin your circle to the bottom (not the band end) of your bag. Pin it right sides together so that the white fusible fleece is facing out. Make sure that the edges of your circle are lined up neatly with the edges of the bag. I find that 8 pins placed at equal intervals around the circle are about right.

The key to getting this right is to go slowly. Place the bag under the presser foot. This is where a 1/4″foot comes in really handy. Make sure the edge of your fabric is nestled right up against the guide of your foot and slooowwwly begin to stitch. After 4 or 5 stitches lift your foot keeping the needle down, and realign the fabric so that it stays right up against your guide. As you remove your pins, make sure that your fabric edge is still lined up with your fleece edge. Also make sure that the fabric under the foot is laying flat. That’s it. Just work your way around and you’ll be fine, promise!
Cut the excess seam allowance to about 1/8″.

There. You did it! Give yourself a little pat on the back.

We’re in the home stretch now! We just need a pretty tie.

Take the remaining mini squares from your charm pack and sew them together in one long strip.
Press seams open.

Fold your strip in half lengthwise with right sides together.

Sew down the long side and across ONE of the short sides of this strip.

Now we need to turn this tube inside out. There are tools that you can buy to help do this, but I find that a wooden skewer or dowel works just fine. Place one end of the skewer against the sewn end of your tube. I like to place the other end of the skewer on my tummy, or on my work table. Then just begin to slip the fabric down over the skewer.

Continue easing the fabric down the skewer until it is completely right side out. Then press out the wrinkles.

Remember that Dritz Elastic Threader? I have to tell you, I have never once put elastic in one of my projects, but I use this little gizmo all the time. It was a total impulse purchase at Joann’s one day, and it has become one of my go to notions. We are going to use it to get the tie through the band at the top of the bag. If you don’t have an elastic threader, don’t sweat. Just use a large safety pin.

Thread the UNSEWN end of your tie through the top notch on the threader. OR pin your safety pin to the end. Put the threader into the hole on your band and work the fabric through until it comes out the other end. Tug on the tie so that it hangs out of the band equally on both sides.

Let’s tidy up the un-sewn end of the tie. Tuck the end in approximately 1/4″ and topstitch at 1/8″.

Done! Sit back and enjoy your handy work. Maybe pour yourself a glass of wine. Just not from the bottle you’re giving away!

One pretty darn cute wine bag that fits a standard wine bottle.  If you like to give your wine away by the jug or the box, hey, go for it! I don’t judge but, sadly, this project won’t work for you. May I suggest yarn bombing?

 Mary Miller
{spoolhardygirl.blogspot.com}

Nancy’s Mysterious Quilt

I don’t think I ever outgrew the Nancy Drew books. There’s something about spooky old attics and moss covered mansions and secret passages that I can’t resist. Sadly, I grew up in a brand new house with absolutely nothing mysterious about it.  When my husband and I bought our 1920 farmhouse, I was absolutely giddy to have a real attic with stairs. This place has all kinds of secrets!

Come visit me at my blog,  Michelle’s Romantic Tangle. I’ve got some projects inspired by the Nancy Drew books and I’m having a giveaway for four of the Nancy Drew books shown on the quilt. I’ll even tell you where we found a moss covered mansion to photograph the quilt in front of!

1 Layer Cake Get a Clue with Nancy Drew
4 1/2 yards white Bella Solid for background
1 panel Nancy Drew Book Covers
3/4 yard binding fabric
6 yards backing fabric

From the white background fabric, cut the following:

82 6 1/2″ blocks

63 10 x 2 1/2″ strips

Remove the mostly white prints from the layer cake and save for another project. They won’t contrast with the background and will detract from the effect of the Irish Chain blocks.

Cut 27 pieces of your layer cake into four 10 x 2 1/2″ strips.

To make the nine patch blocks, sew the 2 1/2 x 10″ strips into sets of three. Make 21 sets with print center strips and 42 sets with background center strips. Press.

Cut each  into four strips.

Assemble into nine patch blocks. Since the print squares are so small, I let the directional prints fall every which way.

Assemble your quilt top as shown in the final picture — in fifteen rows of eleven blocks with nine patch blocks at each corner. To cut down on the bulk you’ll have to deal with while appliqueing the book covers, I suggest leaving off the top two and bottom two rows until the books are in place.

Applique the six book covers from the panel onto the quilt using your preferred method of applique.

Attach the top two and bottom two rows.

Quilt, bind, and snuggle up!

one 66 x 90″ quilt

Michelle Marr
{mychellem.blogspot.com}

The Crinkle Quilt

Hi! I’m Palak from Make It Handmade! My blog focuses on simplifying handmade projects and techniques with tutorials ranging from no sew projects to serger how to’s. This little quilt is no exception!

This quilt is full of color and crinkles that babies will love. At the same time, it’s a forgiving pattern that comes together in a few hours and doesn’t require any precision piecing.  

The finished quilt is is about 40 inches square– my favorite size baby quilt as both a mother and quilter. The size is perfect for covering a newborn or as a play mat for an infant, and doesn’t take much room in the wash. For a toddler it’s a great size for strollers and car seats, and is still large enough to be a lap quilt for a child or adult. As a quilter, I love that I don’t have to piece the backing and it’s easy to fit in the small throat of my home sewing machine.

Quilt Top:
1  Simply Color Layer Cake
1 Yard Focus Print (I chose White Aquatic Blue)
Backing:
1.5 Yard  (I chose White Sweet Tangerine Chevron)
Binding:
1/2 Yard (I chose White Lime Aqua)

The Crinkle Quilt alternates 5 inch strips of smooth fabric with pieced  ruched strips.  The texture makes errors in piecing unnoticeable  making this an easy, quick quilt that’s done without much fuss. 

The colored strips in the diagram below are pieced ruffled; while the white ones are plain. The twist is the ruffling! With the tips you’ll learn in this tutorial, the ruffles will be a snap too. 

Cut List (for quilt top only): 

• Cut your focus fabric into 5 5.5″ by WOF and set aside
• Next, pick 24 squares out of the layer cake and cut them in half to make 48 5″ by 10″ rectangles. 

Piecing The Strips

Divide the 48 rectangles into 4 groups of 12. Sew each group together end to end making 4 long strips as shown below. (Chain piecing makes this step go fast).

Next, place a pin in one end of each long strip. I know this seems like a small thing, but I promise it will help with the ruffling later. From this point onward, whenever we sew, we will always start with the pinned edge going into the machine first. This will keep the ruffles looking even and keep the seam allowances from flipping up. 

Move to the ironing board and press all the seam allowances to one side away from end with the pin. Once you’ve done all four strips, you’ll be ready to ruffle!

Ruffling

We are going to use the tension method to ruffle. This method is ideal for ruffling long strips that might need slight adjustments at the end. If you are having trouble with this method, try using another ruffling method.

Change your sewing machine to have a long stitch length and high tension.

We’ll still need to add even more tension to get the fabric to ruffle enough to be the same size as the focus fabric strips. To do that, I hold the thread down with one finger while sewing.

Here’s a close up of what I’m doing. You can also lightly pinch the thread through your fingers if that’s easier. Just be sure to do this between the thread spool and tension disks as shown in the picture below.

While ruffling, make sure to pull out a long tail of both bobbin and top thread at either end of each strip. I normally use 10-12 inches to be on the safe side.

Starting with the pinned end of the strip, sew along one edge using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.You’ll see your strip ruffle up along one edge.

Then, starting with the pinned edge again, sew along the opposite edge. This will mean you’ll have to flip the strip over to the wrong side.

Do this until you have 4 strips ruffled down each side. Don’t forget to change your sewing machine settings to normal.

Now, compare each strip with the focus fabric strips that we set aside. Pull on the top sewing thread to adjust the strip to be the same length as the focus fabric strips. I also like make sure the pieced sections look like squares instead of trapezoids .

Now for the most important step: Press the ruffled strips well and top stitch down each side of the ruffled using a quarter inch seam allowance and normal stitch length. This will stabilize your ruffled strip and keep it from shifting while you sew.  Now you can remove those pins at the ends of your strips!

Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance, sew the strips together as normal, alternating a ruffled strip with a plain strip.

Your top is complete and ready to be quilted!

Finishing up 

Quilt your Crinkle Quilt with any pattern you like. I recommend not quilting the ruffled strips–  they poof up beautifully in the wash, and are so much fun for little fingers to play in. Trim, square and bind the quilt just as you would any other quilt.

40” by 44” quilt. Covers one sleepy child.

Thank you for having me over at the Moda Bakeshop! Stop by at Make it Handmade to see more about this quilt and other projects.

Palak Shah
{makeithandmade.com}

60-Minute Gift: Bake ‘n’ Fry Dividers

The holiday season is approaching and now is the time to start sewing and making gifts for friends and families. Today I will be sharing a quick project which can be made in under an hour to brighten up your kitchen drawers and protect your non stick cooking surfaces.

1 x Summerville Layer Cake
1 yd Bella solid snow 9900-11
1 yd Flannel
Light weight iron on pellon
Fusible web

Baking Tray Liners ( 30 mins )

• Measure the baking tray. Record the measurement. For the purpose of this tutorial I will be making a liner to suit a 10″ x 15″ base. If you have have a smaller or larger tray, add 1/2″ to the measured length and width.

• From the solid cut 12 x 1 1/2″ strips
• From the print cut 12 x 1 1/2″ strips

• Alternate the solid and print and sew strips together
• Finished block is 8 1/2″ x 10″
• Make 3 blocks

• Cut each block twice on the diagonal

• Sew 2 triangles together to make a half square triangle (HST). Repeat with remaining triangles.
• Square each HST to 5 1/2″

• Arrange in 2 rows of 3 blocks each
• Sew together
• Finished top measures 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″

• From the solid cut 1 – 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ piece
• From the iron on pellon cut 1 – 10 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ piece
• Press the pellon to the wrong side of the solid piece
• Place the solid and top piece right sides together. Pellon will be on the outside.

• Sew 1/4″ from edge leaving a 4″ gap at the top for turning.

• Trim the corners and turn out. Use a stiletto or pointed object to push out seams and corners.
• Fold under opening 1/4″ and top stitch 1/8″ around edge of liner.

• Trace the letters ‘BAKE’ (these can be found in the Printer Friendly file at the bottom of this post) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
• Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
• Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
• Position and press onto front of liner
• Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

Hint: These liners are meant to be scrappy in nature. There are unlimited block designs and scrappy settings that could be used as long as the unfinished top is 1/2″ longer and wider than the base of the tray.

Frying Pans ( 30 mins)

•  Measure the diameter of the pan including the sides.  Record the measurement.

• Cut strips from the Layer Cake and make a piece measuring 10″ x 48″
• Using a 60 degree triangle ruler or the 60 degree marking on your ruler, cut 6 triangles from the strip

• Sew 3 triangles together. Repeat.

• Join the two rows together.

• Cut a circle ( using a compass / pencil and string / large plate ) 1″ larger than the diameter, including sides, of your pan. For example, my pan measured 15 1/2″ from side to side. I would cut a circle with diameter of 16 1/2″

N.B The hexagon made from the 6 triangles can accommodate a circle up to 17″ in diameter.

•  From the flannel cut a circle the same size as the top

• Place the flannel and top piece wrong sides together.
• Sew 1/4″ from edge using a shorter stitch
• Using pinking shears, cut around edge 1/8″ away from stitching.

N.B these liners do not require pellon

Two options for appliqué 

• Cut a piece 6″ x 10″ from print
• Stitch to centre of liner
• Trace the letters ‘FRY’ ( these can be found in the PDF format for this project ) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
• Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
• Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
• Position and press onto 6″ x 10″ piece
• Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

• Cut a 5 1/2″ circle from layer cake
• Stitch to centre of liner
• Trace the letters ‘FRY’ ( these can be found in the PDF format for this project ) onto the dull side of the fusible webbing
• Cut 1/8″ away from the pencil line and press to back of selected print.
• Cut on pencil line and peel of paper backing
• Position and press onto liner centre
• Using a straight stitch or blanket stitch machine stitch the appliqué.

Two baking and fry pan liners to dress up your kitchen drawers and protect your non stick surfaces.

Jane Davidson
{quiltjane.blogspot.com}

30-Minute Gift: Business Card or Mini Wallet

 Hi! This is Kim with Lily Patch Quilts. I am sew happy to be back with another quick and fun tutorial just in time for holiday gift giving.

2 coordinating fat quarters 

1/8 yard heavy weight fusible interfacing

2 – 1/2″-5/8″sets of heavy duty snaps

Snap setting tools 

Marking tool

Medium size spool of thread (rounding corners)

Cut 2  – 4 1/2″ x 7 1/2″ from each fat quarter (2 lining, 2 outer wallet)

Cut – 4 – 4 1/2″x 7 1/2″ heavy weight interfacing 

Step 1

Iron interfacings to the wrong sides of all fabric pieces. Take the spool of thread and place at the corner where your flap will be. Mark around one side of the spool and cut on the marked line to create a rounded corner.

Here are the lining and outer pieces with the flap trimmed.

Step 2

Take the outer wallet piece with the straight side, use the socket and place a mark 1″ from the straight edge. Punch or cut out the hole. Assemble the socket and cap post according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Hammer  until the stud and post is in place. I used the tools that came with the snap plus a craft hammer. Make sure to place the snaps on a really hard surface like hardwood or tile.

Step 3

Place the lining and outer piece right sides together. 

Sew all the way around, leaving an opening large enough to turn. Clip corners.

Step 4

Turn right side out. Press to remove wrinkles. Make sure the opening is pressed even with the side seams.

Step 5

Mark a line 2 1/2″ from the straight edge.

Fold the straight edge up to form a pocket. Pin and sew around 3 sides, starting at the bottom corner and sewing around the flap to the opposite corner.

Step 6

Fold the flap down and press to make an indention on the flap. Mark a hole in the center of the indentation, cut or punch out the hole. 

Insert the socket and cap into the flap. Following the manufacturer’s instructions. Hammer the socket and cap until it’s in place. Press the flap area avoiding the snap to help the flap to lay flat.

 

Your business card/mini wallet is finished. 

This will make 2 business card or mini wallet. I called this a business card/mini wallet because it’s so versatile. It will hold money, business cards or gift cards. This will make a great stocking stuffer.

I would love to have you post your business card/mini wallet in the MBS’ flickr group and Lily Patch Quilts flickr group.

Kim Sherrod

{Lily Patch Quilts}

Q&A with Oda May: The Holidays

{fabric shown is Dear Mr. Claus by Cosmo Cricket}

Join Oda May today as she answers reader questions about the holidays! 

Dear Oda May,

The holidays really snuck up on me this year. I’m having the family over for Thanksgiving and my dreams of handmade tablescapes are crashing around me. Are there any projects I can whip up before T-Day?

Turkey-ed Out in Tennessee

Dear Turkey-ed,

Do I have a project for you! Julie of Jaybird Quilts shared a lovely embroidered napkin tutorial with us one year {Family Traditions}…I suggest you simplify her project and make a single embroidered item with the word “thankful.” You can even use a store-bought table runner and embellish with some charm squares or a jelly roll binding to sass it up. But no matter how your table turns out, remember that its the people around it that make the holiday.

Thankful for You,

Dear Oda May,

I have so been enjoying the Just in Time Gifts series! I’ve already made a couple of little things to give to friends and family, but I’m really hoping to make a quilt for my sister. She’s had a tough year and I think a handmade quilt is the perfect gift to tell her how much I’ve been thinking of her. Is it too late for me to get started?

Last-Minute Quilter in Laramie

Dear Last-Minute,

There are 35 days left until the big gift exchange. It’s going to be a challenge, but it’s not impossible for you to make a quilt for your sister. Check out a few easy quilt recipes:

Easy Strawberry Fields Quilt
Easy as Cake Quilt
Charming Rag Quilt
Four Square Layer Cake Quilt

Those recipes all have minimal cutting and should sew up in a weekend. If you are not a zippy quilter, you might want to go with the Charming Rag Quilt, since it’s a quilt as you go method.

Good luck! You can do it.

Merry and Bright,