120-Minute Gift: Drunkard’s Path Table Runner



Drunkard’s Table Runner: ‘marmalade’ with a festive spin:  A 12.5” x 54” table runner featuring “Marmalade” by Bonnie and Camille for Moda, >composed of (5) 9.5” square drunkard’s path blocks
 

Recipe Pattern by Erin Davis of Sew at Home Mummy


Hi all!

I wanted to do something festive for my dining room table, and I thought, hey! I love ‘marmalade’, why not pair it with a modern red & green to give the line a Christmas-y spin? I love the way it turned out – it looks good on my table for the upcoming holidays, yet I could most definitely pull it off year round! I had a lot of fun composing this runner and I have to say: don’t be scared of curved piecing! Look how gorgeous it looks when it’s done. This would make a fantastic holiday gift, too. 

Happy sewing, quilting and crafting everyone!

Cheers and enjoy the project,

Erin




– 1 Moda ‘marmalade’ by bonnie and camille Charm Pack
– 1 yard Bella Solids ‘Pistachio’
– 1/3 yards Bella Solids ‘Scarlet’
– 16”x60” piece of batting











Cutting:
From charm squares:
see attached templates (A) & (B) in the printable version of the post… I cut mine from the cardboard on the back of the charm square pack, like this:

***sort the charm squares as you like – have fun with it! I pre-sorted my squares into colorways (i.e. – all the ‘reds’ in one stack, all the yellows in another, etc. and then paired the patterns based on what I’d like to see as the center wedge piece, and what I’d like to see as the outer ‘L’ piece.***

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (A) (creating the ‘wedge’ shapes)

·         Cut 20 pieces of template (B) (creating the ‘L’ shapes)

Tip: when cutting curved pieces, try to use the smallest sized rotary cutter you have; you’ll find it much easier to navigate the curves.Your cut pieces will look like this, with the wedge-shaped piece appearing larger than the concave part of the ‘L’ shape – don’t worry:

This is what you want – it’s the seam allowances that make it appear too big to fit.

From yardage:
Pistachio:
Cut (2) pieces of 16” x 30”
Scarlet:
Cut (4) pieces 2”x9.5”
Cut (2) pieces 2”x12.5”
Cut (3) strips 2”x width of fabric

Piecing (Runner Top):
1. Sort your A’s and B’s in combinations of fours (there will be 4 each of A’s and B’s in one block) ; I sorted by colorway in a way that was aesthetically pleasing to me. Have fun with it!

Have fun arranging your pieces
2. Attach piece (A)s to piece (B)s, creating quarter block units. If you have never pieced Drunkard’s blocks before, here are some tips.

a. Fold your Piece (A) and (B) in half along the cut curve, and finger press like so:

b. Match your finger press marks, right sides together, and pin

Tip: When pinning for curved seams, try to have your pin enter where the sewing line will be – i.e. ¼” from the edge of the fabric, and only ‘grab’ a small amount of fabric with pin

c. Match the two outside edges together; pin in the same manner as described above. Place pins along the rest of the curve, easing the fabric to fit.

d.  Sew the two pieces together. I have sewn both with the wedge piece (piece (A)) on top, and the wedge piece on bottom. Personally, I find it easier with the ‘L’ shaped piece (or piece (B)) on top – but you’ll have to play with it to find what you’re most comfortable with. Here are some tips I have found helpful for sewing curved seams:

                             i. Slow and steady; don’t expect to zip around these curves like straight piecing (unless you’re pro! haha)

                             ii. Leave your pins in to the last minute, without sewing over them.

                             iii. every 3-5 stitches, lift your presser foot, pivot slightly, adjust your fabrics, etc.

                             iv. always be conscious of the fabric about to enter under your presser foot – make sure there are no lumps and bumps.

                             v. I have some more tips on my blog – I recently finished a 4” apple core quilt and posted ideas on curved piecing here: 
                             Sew at Home Mummy: Apple Core Quilt
e.  When you’re done sewing, you’ll have a block that looks like this:

f.   Press towards piece (A)s.
g.  Join two quarter blocks to create a half block; press. Repeat with other half of block.
                   Join two half block pieces, matching center seams. Press center seam open.
3.  Arrange completed blocks in an orientation you like. When you’re happy with your layout, attach 2”x9.5” sashing pieces (in ‘Scarlet’) between blocks to create table runner top, like so:
4.  Sew the (3) 2”x width of fabric (in ‘Scarlet’) together, creating one long strip. Use strip to border runner. ‘Cap’ ends with (2) 2” x 12.5” pieces:
Piecing (Backing & Binding):
1.  Sew short ends of the two 16”x30” pieces of ‘Pistachio’ together, creating a backing measuring 16”x60” with a ½” seam allowance. Press seam open.

2.  Use remaining ‘Pistachio’ for binding (as desired).
Finishing:
1.       Layer, baste and quilt as desired.
2. Bind as desired with remaining ‘Pistachio’. I used a decorative top-stitch on the binding seam to jazz it up a bit. 
One gorgeous ‘marmalade’ table runner with a festive spin.

If you have a minute, pop by my blog and see what shenanigans are brewing – there’s always something happening.

Erin Davis

{Sew at Home Mummy}

Big thanks to Moda for giving me the opportunity to work with their gorgeous fabrics again!

120-Minute Gift: Zen Tote


8 strips from your favorite jelly roll (or 24 12” sections of jelly roll strips if you prefer a scrappier look)
½ yard of fabric for lining
Wooden handles
Fusible or sew-in interfacing
¼” steam-a-seam double-sided fusible tape

Step 1. Select 8 strips for your tote exterior panels. Cut each Jelly roll strip into three 11.5 ” segments. If you prefer a scrappier look for your tote, select 24 different 11.5” segments of 2.5” strips.


Step 2. From each 11.5” segment cut one 6.5” rectangle and two 2.5” squares.

Step 3. Arrange your tote exteriors. Create the plus sign layout by overlapping the squares as shown and alternating squares and rectangles across columns.

Step 4. Continue to build your layout until you have a square made from 8 columns. As you get to the top and bottom of your columns, you may have pieces of rectangles that extend beyond your panel and will require trimming. Once you have an arrangement you are happy with, sew together the patchwork to make the exterior panels.

Step 5. Line the exterior panels with fusible or sew in interfacing and trim to 16.5” square. Next cut two 16.5” squares from your lining fabric. Shape both exterior and interior panels by rounding the bottom corners and narrowing the top 6” of the square to fit the width of your wooden handles.

Step 6. Use your double sided fusible tape to fold down a ¼” seam along the 6” which you narrowed to accommodate the wooden handles for the left and right side of all panel pieces.

Step 7. Sew the exterior panels, right sides together beginning from the bottom of the narrowed seam on one end and ending at the bottom of the narrowed seam at the other end. Leave the top 6” of the panel which you’ve folded over with fusible tape open. Repeat this step with the interior panels right sides together.

Step 8. Turn the exterior of the tote right side out and place the lining inside. Align the seams which have been fused together and topstitch all around to secure the lining to the exterior of the bag.

 
Step 9. Bring the top of the bag through the opening of your wooden handles about 1” and fold the raw edge under about ¼”. Machine or hand sew in place to complete your tote.


The perfect tote to give or keep for yourself!

Vanesa @ New Nest
{www.newnestdesigns.com}

60-Minute Gift: Christmas Overnighter Cinch Sack



18” X WOF for lining (2 fat quarters in same or coordinating print)
18” X WOF for outside (2 fat quarters in same or coordinating print)
8” X WOF for strap channel  {can be a coordinating fabric}
Ribbon:  8″ X 1/2″
Rope 2– 43″ or longer {you can adjust this length to fit child}
Pre-cut scrap strips in green for tree and brown for trunk



Cutting:
Cut 2 – 18” X  18″  outside fabric  
Cut 2– 18”  X  18″  lining fabric
Cut 2– 4″ X 18″ strap channel
Cut 2– 4″ X width of ribbon
Cut 1/2” X various lengths– green fabric for tree

Rag Christmas Tree:
1)  Cut 3 strips 1/2” X 9” out of green scraps
2)  Fold the front outside piece in half and iron, using this creased iron line to center the tree tip,  pin the 3 strips in the shape of the tree
3)  Cut a brown 2” X 2” square for the trunk of the tree.  Pin in place.
4)  Sew down the center of these strips, and outline stitch the tree trunk
5)  Using the rest of the 1/2” green scrap strips, place on tree and sew down the center – one strip at a time
6)  Overlap additional strips, change their angle, direction to make it interesting
7)  Take a rough toothbrush and dampen the strips and scrub, this will rag the edges just a bit- or scrub with your fingernails. You can snip the edges if you’d like too

Strap Channel:

1)  Cut 2 strips 4” X 17”
2)  Hem both sides (4”) of each strip

3)  Fold in half so they will measure 2”- wrong sides together.  These will be your channels for the ties

Lining:
1)  Pin right sides together both the front and back linings
2)  Sew all the way around the sides and bottom of the bag, leaving a 2 1/2” opening on one side for turning later
Outside:
1)  Fold ribbon in half and stay stitch at bottom of each side of the front outside piece { 1 1/2” from bottom}

2)  Pin right sides together and stitch all the way around the sides and bottom of the bag.
3)  Turn Right sides out and iron
4)  Pin the channels to the top of the bag and stay stitch in place {sew on using 1/8th inch seam allowance so the stitching won’t show} One channel will be sewn to each side

5)  Stuff the outside into the lining, right sides together
6)  Pin along the top edge, matching the side seams
7)  Sew all the way around the top edge
8)  Turn right sides out through opening
9)  Sew opening closed and iron

Rope Strapping

8)  Tie rope to ribbon loop at the bottom of the bag.
9)  Thread through the tube directly above the ribbon loop, going around the whole bag.  The tie will be coming out the same side as it entered

10)  Repeat with rope on the other side of the bag

11)  Pull the rope to cinch the bag at the top


1 super cute cinch sack to Stuff with goodies, games and Christmas jammies!
Finished size:
17″ wide x 20″ long

Have a Merry Christmas Everyone!  Hope your overnighters are full of wonderful surprises!

Becky Jorgensen
{www.facebook.com/patchworkposse}
{patchworkposse.com/blog}

Landlocked Sea Lover’s Quilt


 

I was born near Boston, Massachusetts and grew up in the Northeastern United States.  I remember summers spent combing beaches and watching yachts glide in and out of the harbor.  I day-dreamed about one day sailing on my own.  Then life happened and my family  moved to Dallas, Texas.  Dallas is hundreds of miles from the nearest beach.  Occasionally, if there is a big storm brewing out in the Gulf of Mexico and the winds are just right you can smell salt on the air, if by occasionally you are good with once in thirty years.  Living where I do it is easy to forget the grandeur that is the ocean.  The sights and sounds of the beach begin to fade like last summers tan….or more likely the tan from the summer of 1984 which is the last time that I spent very much time out in the sun.  It is just too hot in Texas during the summer to do anything but hunker down and enjoy some air conditioning.

Leave it to Deb Strain to bring the ocean back to me.  Her latest line, Seascapes, is everything I remember about summers at the beach and rustic sea ports…minus the salt water taffy and sand in my swimsuit.   I am delighted to play with it and thrilled to bring you this simple pattern.

Landlocked was born of inspiration I had while on a recent shop hop with my Mom.  (Ya, she quilts too!  How awesome is that?!)  We were at Stitchin’ Heaven in Mineola, Texas and they were demonstrating the disappearing 4 patch.   What a concept!  Take that block, make it bigger, be selective in your color placement and you get the following.  I hope you like it.

  • 2 layer cakes*
    • *What you need is 40, 10″ squares that are light and 40, 10″ squares that are dark.
      • Check the fabric line that you are thinking of using.  Count the number of lights you have.  Subtract that number from 42 (the number of pieces in a Moda Layer Cake) and you know the number of dark and light pieces you have.  Seascapes has 7 prints with white backgrounds.  I have 7 lights and 35 darks.  Two layer cakes more than covers the darks, but leaves me short on the lights.
      • If you have fewer than 40 of either one you need to add some fabric to supplement the layer cakes.
      • 1/3 yd yields 4, 10″ squares.
      • I need 26 more 10″ squares of light colored fabric.
      • 26 squares / 4 squares/1/3 yard = 6.5 1/3 yard cuts are needed
  • Supplemental yardage for contrast in pattern
    • I used
      • 1/3 yd #19611-11 white with blue maps
      • 1/3 yd #19614-11 white with blue netting
      • 1/3 yd #19614-12 white with aqua netting
      • 1/3 yd #19617-11 white with shells
      • 1 yd #9900-97 Bella white
  • 1/2 yd for inner border
    • I used #19615-15 navy with waves
  • 1 yd for outer border
    • I used #19618-12 tile print with green
  • 3/4 yd for binding
    • I used # 19619-15 dark stripes
  • 5 3/4 yd for backing
    • I used #19612-17 aqua on navy tapestry print
  • Masking tape is helpful but not necessary

    Landlocked is made from 20, 18″ finished disappearing four patch blocks, set in a 4 x 5 grid.  It has  NO sashing and two simple borders.  The finished quilt measures 80″ x 98″ and is big enough to cover a full sized bed.

    Cutting Instructions:

    • For blocks:
      • The goal is 80, 10″ squares, 40 dark and 40 light.
      • If you needed to supplement the fabrics in your layer cake,
        • cut 1/3 yd supplement fabric into strips 10″ x wof
        • sub cut each strip into 4, 10″ squares
      • Make two piles – one light, and one dark
    • For inner border:
      • cut 8, 1 1/2″ x wof strips
    • For Outer border:
      • cut 9, 3 1/2″ x wof strips
    • For binding:
      • cut 9 strips, 2 1/2″ x wof

    Sewing Instructions:

    • Make 20 4 patch blocks
    • HELPFUL HINT: Big blocks mean you finish a large quilt quickly, they also mean that there is more weight pulling on your fabric as you maneuver it around your machine.  Try putting your needle in the down position when you sew.  This way every time you stop, the needle will stay in the fabric and help hold your work on the table where you want it to be.
      • Gather 10″ squares (40 dark and 40 light)
      • Sew 40 sets of one dark to one light square
      • Iron seam allowances to the dark side
      • Sew 20 4 patch blocks – make certain that the darks and lights align on the diagonal.
      • Pop center seam and twirl seam allowances.
      • Iron flat.
    • Make 20 disappearing 4 patch blocks
      • I recommend that you make one block at a time.  This is the easiest way to keep everything in the right place.
      • The goal is to cut each one into 9 pieces and then reassemble them with the pieces moved around.
      • Gather
        • 20, 4 patch blocks
        • A rotary cutter
        • A ruler, at least 3 1/4″ x 20″
        • Masking tape
        • A rotating, self healing, cutting mat.  You don’t have to have one, but you will need to cut each 4 patch, 4 times, without moving any of the pieces.  A rotating mat will expedite that process.  If this is not available try using a corner for your cutting space.  If you can’t turn the fabric, you can move yourself.
      • Mark ruler with masking tape to remind you where to align for cutting.  I don’t usually do this, but the ruler I am using is big.  Big blocks + big ruler = room for BIGGER mistakes.  I put the tape on the ruler so that it marks a point 3 1/4″ from the cutting edge.  I align the tape with the center seam each time I make one of the following cuts.
      • With 4 patch block directly in front of you,
        • Cut 3 1/4″ to the left of the center seam.
        • Cut 3 1/4″ to the right of the center seam.
        • See red lines on diagram.

      • DO NOT MOVE FABRIC
      • Rotate cutting mat 90 degrees, or step to the other side of your corner.
        • Cut 3 1/4″ to the left of the center seam, perpendicular to previous cuts.
        • Cut 3 1/4″ to the right of center seam, perpendicular to previous cuts. 
        • See green lines on diagram.

      • Imagine your pieces, labeled  as follows…. (see bright pink letters)
      • Keeping the pieces oriented in the same direction, swap piece B with piece H
      • Keeping the pieces oriented in the same direction, swap piece D with piece F.
    
    
      • The corner and center pieces should be in the same place they were originally.
      • Sew pieced back together in their new arrangement.
        • HELPFUL HINT:  When you are sewing the pieces back together note that the big square and little square of the same fabric always line up on the diagonal.  The rectangles of the same fabric are always one patch away from the little square in the same row or column.
      • Iron seam allowances toward rectangle shapes.
      • Trim block to 18″ square.  Really, do this.  It will make all the difference when you piece the blocks together to make your top.
        • HELPFUL HINT:  I do not have a squaring ruler that is this big.  I didn’t want to go buy one either (do they even make one?!) What I did was utilize the lines on my cutting mat.  Line up the center seam of your block with one line on the mat.  Measure 9″ to the left of center seam and trim.  Measure 9″ to the right of center seam and trim.  Turn the block 90 degrees and repeat the trimming process.  Voila!  You now have an 18″ square.
      • Repeat 19 times for a total of 20 blocks.
    • Piece center of top
      • Gather
        • 20, Disappearing 4 patch blocks
        • inner border strips
        • outer border strips
      • At this point it is helpful to use a design wall.  That is, find a place where you can  arrange your  blocks and step back from them to evaluate the distribution of colors.  You probably have a preference…..my guess is towards an equal distribution of all of the fabrics.  
      • Arrange the blocks in a 4 x 5 block grid, turning the blocks so that dark patches touch dark patches and light touches light.

      • When you are happy with the arrangement record it.  This can be done with a quick snap shot with your cell phone or by numbering the blocks with sticky notes.  Do what works for you.
      • Sew 4 blocks together to make 1 row.
      • Repeat 4 times for 5 rows.
      • Sew rows together to make center of top.
    • Add borders
      • Gather
        • 8, 1 1/2″ x wof inner border strips
        • 9, 3 1/2″ x wof outer border strips
      • Sew Inner border
        • Narrow ends
          • Sew two sets of two strips together at the skinny end
          • Iron seams open
          • Attach to narrow ends of top
          • Trim excess and set aside.
          • Iron towards inner border
        • Long ends
          • Sew two sets of two strips together at the skinny end
          • Add one remnant from short end to each set.
          • Iron seams open
          • Attach to long edges of top
          • Iron towards inner border
      • Sew Outer border
        • Narrow ends
          • Sew two sets of two strips together at the skinny end
          • Iron seams open
          • Attach to narrow ends of top
          • Trim excess
          • Iron towards outer border
        • Long ends
          • Cut one of remaining strips in half (across the short dimension)
          • Sew two sets of two and a half strips together at the skinny end
          • Iron seams open
          • Attach to the long edges of top
          • Trim excess
          • Iron towards outer border.

    Sandwich layers and quilt as desired.
    Don’t forget to take a photo of your finished quilt an add them to the Tops to Treasures Flickr group.

    An 80″ x 98″ quilt, a.k.a. magic carpet, pirate ship sails, desert island, or place for wonderful adventures to transpire.  Is also good for late night conversations and snuggling.  A good place to dream about the sea.

    Cindy Sharp
    {topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

    Opposites Attract (aka Alford Inn Quilt)

     


    1 Old Glory Gatherings Layer Cake
    1 Old Glory Gatherings Jelly Roll
    3/4 yd. binding fabric
     5 yd. backing fabric


     Layer Cake:
    Trim 1 1/8″ off two adjoining sides of each layer cake piece to make an 8 7/8″ square. (Careful: cut adjoining sides or you will end up with a rectangle!)

    Make 18 sets of 2 complimentary layer cakes 8 7/8″ squares, placing right sides together. On the lighter of the 2 cakes, draw a diagonal line with your ruler, creating two triangles. ( 5 layer cake pieces will be leftover.)

    Sew 1/4″ down each side of the drawn line. Cut down the diagonal line to make two half square triangles from each square.  Press the 1/2 square triangles open, with seam allowances to the darker side.

    Jelly Roll:
    From Each jelly roll strip, cut 4 pieces:
         2 – 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
         2 – 12 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
    Cut carefully – there is very little waste.

    Match the coordinating cut jelly roll strips with each set of the 8 1/2″ half square triangles that you made. First, sew the 8 1/2″ strips on the sides of the coordinating block. (Opposite colors attached to each other.) Press seam allowance away from the block to reduce bulk.

    Then sew the 12 1/2″ strips on the top and bottom, as in the picture below.


     Make 35 blocks.
    Lay then out 5 by 7 in any fashion that is appealing to your eye.

    This makes a 60″ x 84″quilt.

    Other size options:

    72″ x 84″: 6 x 7 – block layout
                    42 – completed blocks
                    2 fat quarters for additional squares and jelly roll strips.
                    3/4 yd. binding fabric
                    5 yd. backing fabric

    96″ x 120″: 10 x 8 – block layout
                      80 – completed blocks
                      Requires an additional layer cake and jelly roll to complete 80 blocks.
                      1 yd. binding fabric
                      8.5 yd. backing fabric

        

    Cindy Alford

    {alfordinn.com}

    120-Minute Gift: Charmed Message Board

    Hello! I am excited to share my first Moda Bake Shop recipe with you as part of the ‘Just in Time Gifts’ series.  My name is Pauline Francis and I have been quilting for about 10 years. I blog at Quiltnqueen and I’d love for you to come for a  visit. I hope you love the message board as much as I do.

    • 1 mama said SEW charm pack (SKU 5490PP)
    • 1/4 yard mama said SEW (SKU 5495-11) for binding
    • 1/2 yard Moda Bella Off White(SKU9900-200) for header background and backing
    • 1 FQ chalk cloth (SKU OC48)
    • Piece of batting, measuring 15″ x 18″

    • DMC floss, colors #498 and #420
    • Mini clothes pins (optional)


    All seams are 1/4″ unless otherwise noted.

    Cutting
    From the Moda Bella Off White, cut:

    • 1 rectangle, 10″ wide x 8″ length for the header
    • 1 rectangle, 15″ x 18″ for backing
    • 1 rectangle, 3″ x 3 1/4″ for the back of the mini quilt

    From the chalk cloth, cut:

    • 1 rectangle, 12 1/2″ wide x 9 1/2″ long

    From the binding fabric, cut:

    • 2 strips, 2 1/4″ x WOF

    From the charm squares:

    Choose 11 different charm squares.

    • Cut 8 of the charm squares into 2 – 2 1/2″ squares and 1 – 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangle.
      • Choose 6 different 2 1/2″ squares for the header, 3 for the right side and 3 for the left side of the embroidered block.
      • Choose 2 of the 2 1/2″ x 5″ rectangles and 2 of the 5″ charms for the bottom pocket.

    Embroidery

    I have included 2 options for the header. See the Printer Friendly file at the bottom of the post for the template.

  • Option A is all redwork embroidery. Trace the entire PDF file. Stitch with DMC #498.
  • Option B is redwork embroidery with a mini quilt attached to the laundry line with mini clothes pins.  Trace the words and laundry line only, do not trace the quilt.  Stitch the words with DMC #498 and the laundry line with DMC #420.  When stitching the laundry line use the back stitch 1 inch at each end of the laundry line.  Leave 3 inches of the line unstitched to attach the mini quilt to the line.

    • Whether you choose Option A or B, trim the embroidered piece to 8 1/2″ wide x 6 1/2″ long, centering the embroidery.

    Option B: Mini Quilt

    To make the mini quilt, take the last 5″ charm squares and a piece of batting 3 1/4″ wide x 3 1/2 ” length. Wrap charm square around the batting, mitering the corners. Hand stitch close to the edge and hand quilt the body of the quilt. Press edges under 1/4″ around the rectangle you cut for the mini quilt backing and hand stitch to the back of the mini quilt, wrong sides together.

    Assembly
    I used my walking foot to assemble the entire message board. 
    Sew 2 sets with 3 of the 2 1/2″ squares. Press seams open. The length should measure 6 1/2″.

    Sew the 2 sets of squares to the embroidery block, press seams towards the squares.

    To make the pocket, trim 1/2″ off the side of the middle charm square. Sew the pocket pieces together, press seams open.   Trim to 12 1/2 ” cutting from the charm on the left…the pocket piece should measure 12 1/2″ x 5″. Fold the pocket piece in half lengthwise, press, it should now measure 12 1/2″ x 2 1/2″. Sew the sides of the pocket and the bottom of the pocket to the chalk cloth, raw edges even, using 1/8″ seam allowance.

    Sew the bottom of the header to the top of the chalk cloth (option A).
     

    Sandwich the top, batting and backing, stitch 1/8″ around the outer edge.Make one small pocket and one large pocket by stitching in the ditch…first seam on the left.  The larger pocket will hold your chalk pencil.Stitch in the ditch down the inside seams of the embroidered block or quilt squares as desired.

    Trim and bind using your favorite method.
      
    {TIP:  Use a binder clip to pleat the message board when sewing your binding ends together.  With every quilt I make, big or small, I always make a big pleat with the quilt, it makes sewing the binding ends together a lot easier….the quilt and the binding are not fighting each other.}

    Attach a hanging sleeve using your favorite method.

    The message board finishes at approximately 12.5″ x 15.5″.  If your local quilt shop does not carry the chalk cloth, ask them to order it from United Notions.

    I would love for you to visit my blog,where you will find more message board ideas. I hope you have fun making a message board for a gift and don’t forget to make one for yourself. It has been a lot of fun baking with Moda.

    Happy stitching,

    Pauline Francis
    {quiltnqueen.blogspot.com}

    Coins in the Fountain Quilt

    45″ x 66″


    Pat Sloan here!  If we are just meeting… I’m the host of American Patchwork & Quilting Radio, a Moda fabric designer, an author, lecturer, and teacher. You can find all I do at my site patsloan.com. Be sure to sign up for my email newsletter and join me daily at my blog for quilt chat!

    I’m delighted to be here to share my quilt, “Coins in the Fountain”.  The name is a play on the honey bun being cut into stacked “coins,” coins I’d throw into a fabulous fountain in Paris. If I were in Paris, but I’m in Virginia where I am practicing how to say “Papillon’ with a French Accent…wink!

    There is nothing I like better than being able to make a fast quilt with amazing fabrics. I love to let the fabrics do the talking.  I started with a delicious “Papillon” honeybun and I added two fabrics to the mix.  One is a beautiful butterfly print from the “Papillon” line.  The other fabric I selected  is a medium blue “Cross Weaves Woven” from Moda.  I love the cross weaves as they have a slight texture and there is no right or wrong side to them.

    Once you pick the fabrics you are good to go on this journey to Paris with me… now to find the best fountain….mmmm

     

    •    Honey bun of Papillon by 3 Sisters
    •    22″ of blue Cross Weaves Wovens
    •    21″ x 67″ of Butterfly fabric from Papillon line
    •    3 yds backing

    TIP – I got this tip from my friend Kimberly Einmo, take a sticky roller and run it over both sides of your honeybun to remove the lint .. it works perfectly! Now unroll your Honey bun…

    The honeybuns and jelly roll are usually rolled by color. I want to mix up the colors for sewing them together into coin strips.

    Instead of sorting the strips ahead of time into sewing order, I just separate the colors to piles next to my  sewing machine. Often there will be more of one color than another. As I sew I judge when to skip over the smaller pile so they are spaced out more.

    Tip 1 – Be sure your precut ‘points’ are even as they feed under the needle.  Mine are even under the foot and I am adjusting them as I sew.

    Tip 2 –  I sewed 10 strips together at a time. To avoid them ‘warping’ to one side, I alternated the ends I sewed from. 

    I found a 10 strip unit was easiest to handle. After you have those sewn, sew two units of 10″ to each other. Or move onto sub-cutting.

    There are 66 strips sewn to make one unit. I left a few unsewn so that I was able to vary color if I need to when I get to sewing the long unit.

    •    Sub-cut the strips into 7.5″ units.
    •    Sew 66 ‘coins’ to make a strip panel

    Make 3 coin units of 66 strips.

    You can see how my colors are varied… and there were not as many red fabrics in this collection, so I scattered them about.

    Now onto your beautiful wide strip!  I am working with an ‘unseamed’ strip. The butterflies are also directional on the length, so it worked perfect for this quilt. If you select a fabric that is directional the other way, you will need to sew a seam to make the needed length.

    Cut 2 wide strips 10.5″ x 66.5″

    •    Now cut 7 blue strips 1.5″ x width of fabric.
    •    Sew those all together end to end.
    •    Cut 4 units 66.5″ long.
    •    Sew the blue strips to each side of the butterfly fabric
    •    Sew the top alternating coins and butterflies
    •    The rest of the blue weave was used for binding.

    Here we are all quilted!

    I love a side shot to show the quilting.. want a closer look?

    I did very simple ‘wavy’ quilting to mimic water… remember the fountain?
    Vertical over the blue butterflies.

    and Horizontal on the coins with a loops in the blue sashing
    Want to see the back?

    I had some left over coins, so I pieced them into the backing by adding the blue backing dot to the top and bottom of the coins. 

    You can see the horizontal and vertical quilting on the back!

    I do my bindings by machine, if you want some tips on that visit my free pattern page for a {step-by-step photo tutorial} with a printable PDF.

     
    All ready to cuddle up! If you want to make your own, I have a few kits {here}.

    Pat Sloan

    {www.creativetalknetwork.com}
    {www.Patsloan.com}
    {blog.patsloan.com}

    Old Glory Quilt

    Hello quilting friends! We are Quilted Works and we are so excited to be sharing our very first Moda Bake Shop project! Today we are sharing with you a fast and easy tutorial for creating hour glass blocks using a Layer Cake. We had so much fun creating this quilt and know that you will all love it.


    (Old Glory Gatherings by Primitive Gatherings)

    • 2 Layer Cakes
    • 1/2 Yard Inner Border – 1040-39G (RED)
    • 1 3/4 Yard Outer Border – 1077-19 (BLUE)
    • 5 3/4 Yards Backing Fabric
    • 3/4 Yard Binding – 1040-43G (NAVY)


    Begin by separating the Layer Cakes into LIGHTS (all the beiges) and DARKS (all the reds & blues)

    Select one DARK and one LIGHT fabric square and place them with right sides together.  Pin all sides.

     

    Sew 1/4″ seam around the entire 10″ square. When you come within 1/4″ from the corner, simply leave your needle down, and pivot the fabric to continue sewing around the square.

    Your entire square will be sewn closed. Repeat with the remaining Layer Cake squares – sewing one DARK and LIGHT together. (Image below shows the 1/4″ stitching all around.)

    Next we will be cutting the squares into 8 pieces. Place your square onto the cutting board. Do not reposition your square after making any of the cuts. First, cut diagonally both ways (from corner to corner), then cut vertically and horizontally at 5″.

    Press each piece towards the dark fabric.

    This is what your pieces will look like:

    Mix up all your pieces and then re-pair them together with one BLUE piece and one RED piece.

    Match the center of them together, pin, and sew 1/4″ seam. 

    Now you have a finished “Hour Glass” block! It should measure 6 1/4″ and will end up being 5 3/4″ finished.

    Repeat this process until you have created all the hour glass blocks.

    Now we are ready to start laying out our blocks and forming rows. Make sure to rotate every other block 90°. Arrange the blocks until you are happy with the color placements.

    Sew together in rows, making sure to pin well so that everything is lined up perfectly.

    This quilt is 11 blocks across and 13 rows down.

    Attach the borders.
    INNER Border: cut 7 – 2″ strips from the RED fabric. Attach sides first, then top and bottom.
    OUTER border: cut 7 – 6 1/2″ strips from the BLUE fabric. Attach sides first, then top and bottom.

    Baste, Quilt and Bind your quilt as desired!

     


    Finished Quilt Size is approximately 81″ x 92″.

    We hope that you’ll come visit us at www.quiltedworks.com.  If you create a quilt using this tutorial, we would love to see it – be sure to link up to the Flickr Group here. Kits for this Moda Bake Shop project can be purchased on our website and will be eligible for free U.S. shipping! We have loved sharing our first project with you and hope to have many more to share.

    Quilted Works
    {www.quiltedworks.com}

    Skittles Quilt



    Hey there friends! It’s Natalia from Piece N Quilt. When I saw Vanessa’s new fabric Simply Color it just screamed to me, make something! So I’m here today to share my creation using Simply Color.
    You can read more about me and my new book, Beginner’s Guide to Free-Motion Quilting, over on my blog!

    2 Yards Simply Color Grey Ombre #10800
    2 Yards Moda Bella Solid Steel #9900 – 184
    1 Simply Color Charm Pack
    4 Yards Simply Color Zig-Zag #10804 (backing)

    Begin by preparing your charm pack fabric for applique. I prefer to use starch applique.
    Next, cut all of the circles in the charm pack into random 2″, 3″ & 5″ circles. I used my accuquilt GO! die to cut my circles.

    Now take your 2 yards of ombre fabric and find the point in the fabric where the steel fabric matches the best. cut a tiny slit and then tear the fabric. I chose to tear so that I could ensure that I had a perfectly straight cut.

    From your solid steel fabric cut a piece that is 13″x 2 yards.

    Lay that steel piece of fabric in the cut part of the ombre fabric. Randomly lay the circles onto the fabric, mostly on the steel fabric, and a little bit on the ombre.

    Applique as many of the circles onto the steel piece as you can, then sew the steel piece into the ombre piece. Finish appliqueing all circles.

    Quilt, bind and enjoy!


    1 – 53″x72″ Skittles quilt.

    Natalia Bonner
    {pieceandquilt.com}