Macarons Lap Quilt

Hello! I’m Casey from Casey York Design and I blog at Studioloblog.wordpress.com. I’m delighted to be publishing my first pattern with Moda Bakeshop. This charm-pack friendly pattern features colorful French macarons, which seem to fit well with the title of this blog. For the quilt pictured, I used Kate Spain’s recently released Honey Honey collection, and I am in love with this line. The colors are so cheerful and springlike and work perfectly for the candy-colored macarons. I hope you enjoy this pattern and that you’ll share your finished quilts with me through the Casey York Quilts flickr group.

If you’d like to see some of my other quilts, many of which I will be releasing patterns for this spring, please stop by my blog and say hi!

(Unless otherwise noted, these requirements refer to 40” 100% cotton quilting fabric)

Macarons appliques: (1) Honey Honey charm pack

Cake Stand applique: ½  yd. fabric for cake stand appliqué (sample shows Bella Solids Aqua)

Background: 1 ½ yds. solid fabric (1 ¼  yds. if fabric is extra wide)

Binding: 1 yd. contrasting fabric for binding (based on 3”wide bias-cut strips; sample shows Lace in Sunset)
Backing: 3 yds. (or multiple fabrics to measure 44″ X 54″ for pieced backing)
Batting: 42″ X 52″ (1 3/4 yds 45+” batting, or one baby-sized package of pre-cut batting)

Lightweight, double-sided, paper backed fusible web : 1 ½ yds. 12” wide web or (6) 9” X 12” sheets

Step 1: Make the Appliqués:

Print the Appliqué Template page, which can be downloaded as a PDF here. Enlarge the Cake Stand template 300% using the settings in the print dialog box that appears when you print the PDF. (The cake stand will print over multiple sheets of paper, which you will then tape together.) The Cookie and Filling templates do not need to be enlarged.

Following manufacturer’s instructions, trace templates onto double-sided paper-backed fusible web. You will need to trace and cut (20) Cookies and Fillings and (1) Cake Stand. The cake stand may need to be traced in multiple sections, as shown below; these will be easy to reassemble when you fuse the web to the fabric in the next steps. As you will be applying these to the wrong side of your fabrics, the templates have already been reversed for you.

Tip: make sure to trace onto the correct side of the fusible web to avoid having to retrace your templates.

Decide which fabrics you want to use for cookies and fillings; I used large scale prints for the cookies and smaller scale or darker value complements for the fillings.

Cut out your traced templates and, following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the shapes to the wrong sides of your charm squares and cake stand fabric. Make sure to use a pressing cloth between your iron and fabric in order to avoid getting sticky residue on your sole plate.

Tip: Leaving a small margin around the templates when you cut them from the web is often helpful, but for this type of simple geometric shape I find this unnecessary. For this pattern, I cut the templates out along my tracing lines before fusing to the fabric. This saves my fabric scissors from cutting through extra layers of paper and adhesive, which can dull and gum up the blades. Use whichever method works best for you.

Match up each filling with its corresponding cookie. Although it may be tempting to fuse them together at this point, hold off on this until the next step, otherwise the overhanging portion of the fillings will fuse permanently to your ironing surface. 

 

Step 2: Assemble the quilt top:

Cut and/or piece your background fabric to measure 40” X 50.”  

Following the placement diagram below (click here for a PDF), arrange you appliqué shapes on the background.  

Position the cookies about one inch apart, and finalize your layout before fusing.  

Make sure to position the cake stand ¼ inch above the bottom edge of the background fabric, so that it is not covered by the binding when the quilt is finished. One cookie will be cut off at the left edge of the quilt—make sure to cut this to fit beforeyou fuse it, to avoid fusing the edge of the cookie to your fusing surface.

Tip: Try to complete this step on the same surface you will be ironing on. Although the unfused web is tacky, it will not necessarily hold the appliqués in place if you move the quilt top.

Appliqué around each shape by hand or with your machine. For this example, I used invisible thread and a zig-zag stitch.

Step 3: Finish the quilt:

Layer your quilt top, batting, and backing; baste and quilt as desired. For the sample, I quilted an allover scroll pattern.

Trim batting and backing even with quilt top. Place a large bowl or plate adjacent to the edges at each corner and trace along its outer curve to mark curved corners. Trim the quilt according to your markings.

Use your contrasting binding fabric to make bias binding and bind using your preferred method.

Tip: bias binding will be easier to sew around the curved corners of the quilt than will straight grain binding.

Have a macaron and admire your finished quilt!

 

 

This pattern will yield one 40” X 50” lap quilt, which is my favorite size for brisk late winter days.

Casey York
{studioloblog.wordpress.com}

L.O.V.E. Mini Quilt Sampler

You gotta love leftovers in a bake shop, especially the kind that have no calories! 

When I was testing out different types of reverse applique for a recent project I trotted out some slices of my Marmalade layer cake that hadn’t been used in Marmalade Circles.  They were perfect for this sweet Valentine sampler.

The sampler measures 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″  – a perfect Valentine for yourself or a quilty friend.

4, 10″ x 10″ squares of coordinating fabric
Pearl cotton
Fray Check
Sharpie Marker (for paper)
Fabric Marker
Short Pointy Sharp scissors
Applique pins

Cutting Instructions:

• Choose fabrics for letters and backgrounds.  Cut 4, 5″x5″ squares of each
• Choose fabric for binding.  Cut 5, 2″ x 10″ strips
• Use remaining 10″ x 10″ square for backing.

Lettering Instructions:   The point of this project, at least for me, was to try out different types of applique, specifically reverse applique.  Reverse applique is a method by which layers of fabric are used to create designs as bits are secured and cut away.  Kind of like the ancient sculptors who “found” their masterpieces hidden in the stones that they chiseled…only this is fabric…and I’ve never found a handsome hunk hidden in the layers of fiber.  

You  are more than welcome to use a different method of applique.  My templates would work for either fusible or traditional techniques.  Go for it.

The following instructions tell you how I did what I did.   I tried two methods, one done by hand, and one by machine.  There are two samples of each method in this tiny quilt.

Made using 4, slices of layer cake from Marmalade by Bonnie & Camille

By hand…

The letters O and V were drawn on to the striped fabric. I then layered that patch a top the floral. I snipped the top fabric about 1/4″ from the drawn line (starting with the center, else it would fall away.) flipped the edge under and hand sewed along the tracing line (now at the edge of the patch.) I continued that process until the whole letter had been revealed.

By machine….

The letters L and E  were drawn onto the floral fabric. I then layered the patch atop a striped charm and machine sewed a scant 1/4″ to the outside of my traced line. Once the L was completely traced with stitches I carefully trimmed away the top layer (leaving about 1/8″ raw edge) and applied Fray Check to the loose edges. As a long arm quilter, I have found that loose edges can cause problems. To minimize the floppiness I went back and hand embellished the edges with pearl cotton.  (Another option would be to use your machine and do some decorative stitching to hold the edges down.) As I mentioned earlier, it is perfectly acceptable, and probably a lot easier to fuse the letters. If you choose to do it this way, the templates can do double duty. Use the box around each letter to help center the letters on each charm.

Getting down to business

• Print letter templates.

• At the bottom of this post is a “Printer Friendly Version” button that looks like the picture above….only it will actually take you somewhere.
• Clicking on it will take you to a place where you can print it all out.
• There are 4 different letters.
• You will need to make one of each.

• Each template is drawn in 5″ square. When you print them, make sure that the square measures 5″.
• You need to be able to see the outlines of the letters/shape through the fabric. I found the lines printer by my printer to be insufficient to this task.
• To fix the problem I drew on them with a sharpie marker.
• WARNING – be careful of your writing surface, you don’t want to ruin your cutting mat with Sharpie bleed through.
• Using light box, or masking tape and a window, trace letters onto the right side of each 5″ x 5″ square that you intend to use as the background fabric. 

• Layer each charm square atop one letter fabric square.

• Layer them so that both right sides are up….like pages in a note pad.

• Using large basting stitches, sew 1/8″ from each edge.
• This will hold your pieces together while you are working with the fabric in the middle to reveal the letters.
• The smaller than normal “seam allowance” will ensure that the stitching doesn’t show when you put all of the blocks together.
• Applique letters onto blocks.
• For L and O

• Snip the top fabric about 1/4″ from the drawn line (starting with the center if you are working on something with a floating piece like center of  O)   Make your cut only about an inch or two long so that you are only cutting what you are working on at the moment. Clip curves, and corners to make flipping under the edge easier.
• Flip the edge under
• Pin in place as needed.
• Sew along the tracing line (now at the edge of the patch.) with a hidden stitch like you would use if you were binding your quilt or hemming something. Continued that process until the whole letter is revealed.
• For V and E
• Sew a scant 1/4″ to the outside of the tracing lines.
• Trim the fabric on the tracing lines
• Apply a thin coating of Fray Check to the exposed raw edges
• Secure edges as desired.
• Assemble the top.
•  NOTE your blocks will be thicker than normal.  That is to be expected.  It is a result of the double layers used in reverse applique.  As you sew your top together iron the seam allowances OPEN.  This will spread out the bulk.  I know it makes aligning the corners more difficult, but you will thank me when you go to quilt it. 
• Sew the L block to the O block
• Sew the V block to the E block
• Sew two rows together to make top
• Layer, quilt, and bind as desired.

It was once common practice for children to make samplers of their needle work.  It provided a record of stitches, helped them with their tecnique, and taught them various important lessons as they stitched out the words.  (Imagine stitching out “I will not talk in class!”  he, he, he.  That sampler didn’t make it down to us.  I wonder why.)  This recipe yields one sweet lesson in LOVE, and two in reverse applique.  It would be perfect to hang on a wall, in a quiet corner or your home or office.  If you have a little girl in your life it might also be used to cover Barbie’s bed.

I’d love to see your finished project.  Please add it to the Flickr group Tops to Treasures.

Cindy Sharp
{topstotreasures.blogspot.com}

Stack ‘Em Up Quilt

– One Ticklish Layer Cake by Me & My Sister Designs for Moda
– 1.5 yards 22194 22 Blue from Ticklish by Me & My Sister Designs for Moda {border & binding}
– 1 yard 9900 200 Off White, Bella Solid
– 1/4 yard – 22197 23 Purple from Ticklish by Me & My Sister Designs for Moda
– 1/4 yard – 22195 22 Blue from Ticklish by Me & My Sister Designs for Moda
– 1/4 yard – 5501 15 Daisy from Noteworthy by Sweetwater for Moda
– 1/4 yard – 5508 24 Pickle from Noteworthy by Sweetwater for Moda

My schedule is pretty much like everyone else’s- super busy! I love to quilt but just can’t find the time to make really intricate quilts especially when I need then to be a little larger in size than say, a wall hanging. So, I enjoy designing quilts that I can cut and piece in a day or two at the most. Yup! I said it… and I hope you’ll give this one a try so you can see exactly what I mean.

The quilt finishes about 58″ x 71.5″ and is made up of only 2 blocks. The blocks are NOT a traditional quilt block size in that they finish at 13.5″ x 13.5″. The reason for this is I designed the blocks to use Layer Cake squares as efficiently as possible.  This is great for three reasons: 1) less cutting for you and 2) very little to no fabric waste and 3) my favorite- a good size quilt that whips up quickly!

The way I’ve created the quilt here is just one variation using the two blocks.  Once you finish your 20 blocks feel free to play around with them and re-orient them any which way you want.  It’s a lot of fun to make your own one-of-a-kind quilt so it’s always something I encourage!

Let’s get to it!

I’ll break down the cutting and piecing into each block first then all you have to do is repeat until you get 10 blocks of each Block #1 and Block #2. Simple enough.

Block #1: You will need 10 of these total. Each finishes at 13.5″ in the finished quilt.
Center square: One 10″ x 10″ layer cake square {1 per block… easy, right?}
Side strips: 2.5″ x 10″ {4 per block}
Corners: 2.5″ x 2.5″ {4 per block}

Block #2: You will need 10 of these total. Each finishes at 13.5″ in the finished quilt.
Center strip: 5″ x 14″ {1 per block}
Solid white corners: 5″ x 5″ {4 per block}
Center color squares: 5″ x 5″ {4 per block}

Now that you see how easy it is to whip this quilt up let’s get started on how to get all the pieces we need from the fabric we have.

 Step 1:  Open your Ticklish layer cake and select 10 squares you want to use as your centers for Block #1. Be spontaneous. The quilt WILL be beautiful no matter which ones you select.  Press your squares flat with your iron and set aside.

 Step 2: Gather the 1/4 yards you have of each of the four different fabrics. Cut 3 strips measuring 2.5″ x WOF (width of fabric) from each fabric.

Step 3: Turn strips the other way and cut out rectangles at the 10″ mark. So you end up with pieces that measure 2.5″ x 10″.

 {Tip: You can get 4 rectangles from each 2.5″ x WOF strip you cut.}

 Repeat until you get 10 rectangle units measuring 2.5″ x 10″ from each of your 4 fabrics. Set your 40 units aside.

Step 4: Set aside units for Block #1 because we still need our corner squares but I like to wait until after I’ve cut the pieces I need for Block #2 so I can go back and use as many scraps as I can.

Step 5:  Cut up the 1 yard of white fabric to get 40 squares measuring 5″ x 5″.
{Tip: If you cut 5″ wide strips x WOF (width of fabric) you only need to cut 5.  Then from each of those strips you can cut 8 of the squares you need … for a total of 40.}

Step 6: Pick out 5 more layer cake squares that you want to be the accent color blocks in your Block #2. Press flat with iron. {See pic at beginning of post if you don’t remember what Block #2 looks like.}

Step 7: Cut each layer cake square in four.  Taking care to end up with 4 squares that measure exactly 5″ x 5″ from each layer cake square. You will get 4 squares from each for a total of 20 squares.
{Tip: Always check your measurements.  Some layer cake squares may be a little bigger or smaller than the 10″ x 10″ size. If it’s too big trim it down. If it’s too small, no biggie. Choose another square. There are more than enough for you to make this quilt.}

Step 8: To make the long pieced center strip in Block #2 we will need to piece it.  Start off by selecting another 5 layer cake squares and slice them in half to get two rectangles measuring 5″ x 10″. 

Step 9: Set one half aside. We will cut the other half up to create our center strip unit. Take the one half reserved for cutting up and cut 2.5″ strips from it.  You should be able to get 4 rectangles each measuring 2.5″ x 5″.

Step 10: The short strips you have will now be sewn to the short ends of the longer/bigger rectangle you have set aside but you will use a different fabric. So, cut up whatever layer cake squares you like for this and mix & match them any way you want.

Step 11:  Using a 1/4″ seam allowance sew the end pieces onto the half of the layer cake square piece until you get units that look like the ones below. The finished unit should measure 5″ x 14″. Repeat to get 10 units.

Step 12: Now we can revisit what’s left of our layer cake and select the ones you want to use as your cornerstones for Block #1. You didn’t forget about those did you?! Well, you will need to cut out a total of 40 squares that measure 2.5″ x 2.5″. To do that just take a layer cake square, cut it in half and then cut that half lengthwise to get two 2.5″ x 10″ strips as shown below. Then you can cut the 2.5″ x 2.5″ squares from those strips as shown below also. You will need 4 cornerstones per Block #1 for a total of 40.
{Tip: Feel free to use 4 different cornerstones for each block or keep them the same like I did. Make this fun quilt your own. It will be marvelous no matter what you decide!}

 Now that all the prep work is done we can start piecing! Yay! For a scrappy quilt like this with a lot of different fabrics I like to assemble the design of my quilt top on a design wall of some kind.  It just makes it easier to see the blocks from a far and make any changes as you go. Nothing expensive or fancy.  I just have a piece of batting thumb tacked into my studio wall.

Step 13: Lay out your 10 squares for Block #1 in any order you want. This quilt alternates blocks so leave space between each Block #1 for a Block #2 that will go there later. Move them around until you get a design you like.

Step 14:  Start laying the side strips around the center square using one of each color for every block. Arrange them any way you want similar to the picture below. Repeat for every Block #1 on your design surface.
{Tip: Space your Block #1s further apart than I show in the picture below. I had to do some moving around after to accommodate the full size Block #2s in there.}

Step 15: Place your cornerstones in place to finish off your ten Block #1s. Again, arrange them in any manner you want. You can keep them the same color on each block or totally randomize them.

Step 16:  Look at your Block #1s and see if you want to switch anything up. Once you have it just the way you want you can start piecing your Block #1s. Using a 1/4″ seam allowance to sew the corner stones to the one long strip at the top and the other longer strip on the bottom.  Then sew the side strips to the center square as shown below. Press your seams in opposite directions (see pic below).

Step 17: Now to sew the top and bottom units we just created to the larger center unit. Use a 1/4″ seam allowance and make sure you are abutting those intersecting seams so you get nice crisp meeting points as shown below.

Step 18: Repeat the process to get 10 Block #1s. 

Step 20: Start working on Block #2! Begin by placing the different parts that make up the block in the correct orientation. You need 4 white squares, one will go on each corner. Then decide which way you want to orient your longer center strip and place it either vertically or horizontally. The spaces that are blank will be filled in with the color squares you cut from the layer cake squares back in Step 7. Sew in the same manner as Block #1. The top row, center row, bottom row and then sew them all together using the same 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat to get 10 Block #2s.

Step 21: By now you should have 10 Block #1s and 10 Block #2s. At this point double check to make sure each one of your 20 blocks measures 14″ x 14″.  I have a 14″ ruler so this was easy. You may need to do some trimming.
{Tip: If blocks are smaller than the 14″ x 14″ find which block is the smallest of the bunch and trim them all to that size. No need to panic if they are all different sizes. Consistency is key.  Just make sure they are all the same size before you start sewing them together.}

Step 22: Once all blocks are square and the same size we can start assembling the quilt top.  I have the quilt set up like this but you can rearrange them in any way you’d like at this point. Make it your own!

Step 23: Once you have the block arrangement to your liking start connecting the blocks!  I like to split it up and piece 3 blocks at a time instead of sewing the whole row of 5 across. This helps keep the pieces more manageable as you sew and will be a lot easier to match the intersection block points on the quilt.  Once I have one large 3 block x 4 block section pieced {shown below} I go to what’s left and piece another larger 2 block x 4 block section {shown below}.  Then, I’ll sew just one long 4 block seam to join the two quilt top sections.
{Tip: There only a few intersecting points that have to be matched when you are sewing the blocks together. So keep an eye out for those when pinning and sewing.  It’s basically only where the cornerstones on Block #1s meet.}

Step 24: Your quilt top is almost done! Now we just need add a super quick and easy border to finish it up!

Step 25: For the border we are working with 1.5 yards 22194 22 Blue from Ticklish by Me & My Sister Designs for Moda. Leave the fabric just as it comes folded off the bolt and re-fold it on itself making sure it is staying on grain. This will make it easier to cut with a shorter ruler.  If you have a WOF (width of fabric) ruler you can skip this step.

Step 26: Trim off a little from the edge to start with a clean cut straight edge. Then proceed to cut eight (8) 2.5″ x WOF (width of fabric) strips. {Use the remaining fabric to cut your binding strips when you get to that point.}

 Step 27: Cut the selvages off each strip.

Step 28: Now we’ll be sewing two (2) strips together at a time until we end up with four (4) long strips, each made up of two (2) 2.5″ x WOF strips. To prepare your strips for sewing lay one strip with the pretty side of the fabric facing up vertically in front of you.  Take a second strip and lay it with the pretty side of the fabric facing down horizontally in front of you so that the corners are flush over the strip that’s underneath.  Like I’m showing in the picture below.  The set up should look like a backwards letter “L”.

Step 29: Now pin in place and draw a line with some kind of fabric marking device starting on the top right corner and down to the bottom left corner.  Then stitch directly on that line {backstitching at beginning and end just in case!} Trim your seam allowance to 1/4″ and repeat to the remaining strips remember that you should only be sewing two together at a time.  DO NOT sew all eight (8) together.  Each combined pair of strips will be one side border and you will need four (4) to add borders around the four sides of your quilt. Make sense?

 Step 30: Press all seams open on your border strips and when you turn it over you should now have one continuous strip as shown below.

Step 31: To add the borders pick one side of your quilt and lay the pretty side of the border strip to the pretty side of quilt top and pin along entire edge.  Use a 1/4″ seam allowance to sew on.  {Note: You will see below that I like to leave at least an inch of excess border strip on both edges of my quilt tops because I prefer to go back and trim them afterwards.  This will ensure a nice straight angle border.}

Step 32: Then press your seam flat first and then by opening the border strip back and pressing your seams towards the darker fabric.

Step 33: Now we can trim the edges.  Take a square or rectangular ruler and line up two of it’s edges flush with the side of your quilt and trim away any excess fabric. Repeat on opposite end of border strip.

Step 34: Now you have one border strip attached.  For the next one you always want to attach the the border to the parallel side of the one you just sewed.  In other words, if you add your first border to one long side of the quilt the second border you attach should be to the opposite long side of the quilt and NOT a short side. Like I show you below. After two parallel borders are attached proceed to add the remaining border strips to the shorter sides of the quilt top. Press after each seam and trim flush with the edge of the quilt top.

 

That’s it! Your quilt top is complete! It should measure approximately: 58″ x 71.5″. Makes a fun picnic or lap quilt for Spring/Summer.  I love quickie quilt designs like this because they make great last minute gifts!

Vanessa Wilson
{craftygemini.blogspot.com}

The Love Knot Block

Leah Douglas from thebuggspot.blogspot.com here. St. Valentine’s Day is soon arriving and I’ve whipped out a little table runner in anticipation of the Saint’s Day celebrating the man who performed marriage ceremonies for Roman soldiers who had been denied the luxury by the Emperor Claudius II. There’s your history lesson for the day.

And here are some roses from my hubby. He’s so romantic.

Let’s get started!

1 jelly roll (Posy)
     1 jelly roll will make 16 blocks (approx. 2 1/2 strips per block) but you probably don’t want to use
       any strips that are similar in color to your background fabric, so more like 12 blocks total
white background (cluck daisy white)
     1 1/2 strips (at 2 1/2″ wide) per block

These are instructions for making ONE love knot block. I chose to make three total and turn them into a table runner, because that’s what I happened to need at the time. You should be able to make 12 blocks easily out of one jelly roll and turn them into a 3 x 4 block quilt if you would like. Each block finishes at 11″ square.

Cutting the Love Knot Block:

Start by choosing 5 strips from your jelly roll. Trim them from 2 1/2″ wide down to 1 1/2″ wide. If you have a honey bun instead of a jelly roll, that will be perfect without any trimming.

Set aside one of the five strips to be used for the middle square of the block. You have four strips remaining. Cut each of the four strips remaining in half. You will only use half of each strip, so save the rest for a different block later. Fold each of the four strips in half. 

Pick one strip and cut as follows:

     Cut a rectangle measuring 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″. You should have two total. 

     Unfold the strip. Cut one rectangle 4 1/2″ wide, another 5 1/2″ wide and one 1 1/2″ square. You will 

     have a smidge leftover fabric to do with as you please. 

     Do the same with the three other strips (not that one you set aside earlier for the center square 

     though, that’s next).

Now take the strip you chose to use for the center square. Fold it in half twice. Cut 4 rectangles measuring 1 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ and 8 squares 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″. You will have some leftovers to set aside for whatever you’d like.

Next the white background fabric. 

From your 1 1/2 or 2 strips of white cut 8 rectangles measuring 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ and 21 squares measuring 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″. 

The pieces required to make one love knot block:

Sewing the Love Knot Block together:

Perfect 1/4″ seams are 

INCREDIBLY 

important for this block!

Take your 8 squares from the center square fabric (my center square will be white flowers on a pink background) and 16 white background squares.

Using that perfect 1/4″ seam, sew together like this:

IRON, IRON, IRON. I always iron away from the white fabric. This will result in tricky seam matching later, and some ironing towards the white, but if I can get over it, so can you. We’ll all be fine.

To be sure your seams are the correct width, check to make sure the pieces pictured above all measure exactly 3 1/2″ across. If not, find the “scream” ripper and do it again. It’ll be grand.

Now set out the first of four corners for your block. 

top row: purple 4 1/2″ wide going horizontal, purple 5 1/2″ wide going vertical

second row: baby pink square and 2 white rectangles 2 1/2″ wide

third row: center fabric 3 1/2″ wide

fourth row: baby pink 3 1/2″ wide (vertical), white square, center fabric square, another white square

fifth row: purple 3 1/2″ wide

sixth row: white square, center fabric square, 2 more white squares

 Start by sewing these pieces together and then iron (ironing will be assumed from now on):

Then add the 3 1/2″ baby pink to the left side:

Set that section aside and sew this one:

Add the 2 1/2″ white rectangle to the right side:

Sew the 5 1/2″ purple to a white square:

Sew these three pieces together, careful to match your seams:

Then add the long purple with white square to the right side:

Woohoo! This is one quarter of your block. 

Rotate your finished quarter-of-the-block COUNTERCLOCKWISE and lay out the pieces for the next quarter-of-the-block like so: 

Sew it together the same way you did above. It should go something like this:

Once again, rotate things counterclockwise and begin the third quarter-of-the-block:

And the last quarter-of-the-block:

See that extra little white square I threw in the middle of the above picture? That is what pulls everything together here. Sew that little guy onto one of your quarter-blocks leaving a 1/4″ unsewn like this:

It should look like this below, ready to be sewn to the second quarter-of-the-block: (match the seams!)

Sew those two together, rotate counterclockwise, and sew the third quarter-of-the-block on:

Now the tricky part. Adding that last bit. 

You can start from that middle white square or from the outer edge of your blocks, whichever you choose. Either way should be fine if you are being careful to line up all your seams along the way. However, look at the picture below and notice that the last little 1/4″ near the center white square is not sewn.

That’s so you can sew up the other side and turn out a beautiful little 11 1/2″ block like this!

You’re done! 

Here’s a few snapshots of how I finished my 3 blocks into a table runner.

First, I cut (2) 11 3/4″ squares into 4 triangles:

Second, I laid it all out to be sewn into rows:

Quilt top finished!

Isn’t this fabric fantastic? Here’s my backing after quilting:

Table runner complete with roses from my love. 

One Love Knot Block measures 11″ square, finished
1 jelly roll yields 12+ blocks
My table runner measures 15″ x 45″

Leah Douglas
{thebuggspot.blogspot.com}

Steps To The Sea Quilt

Hello from Robin at Craft Sisters. It’s great to be back at the Bake Shop sharing a new quilt. The pattern is a simple log cabin block variation – Courthouse Steps and uses Deb Strain’s beautiful “Seascapes” Jelly Rolls and Panel. Thanks Deb and Moda for all the beautiful colors.  

1 Seascapes Panel 19610-12

1 Bella Solids Jelly Roll White 9900JR-98

2 Seascapes Jelly Rolls 19610JR

5 Yds. Backing fabric

Batting 79” x 85”

Just a note that one Jelly Roll will make six blocks.  This quilt could be made with 2 Jelly Rolls if you are OK without borders or smaller borders. I added the white, Bella Solid to get more contrast.  There are only a few light strips in the Seascapes Jelly Roll.

Step 1 – Cut the panel squares using a square ruler

Center a ruler over each letter and trim to 6-1/2” square 

Center a ruler over each shell and trim to 6” square

Step 2 – Separate the Jelly Rolls by color from light to dark.  Light strips were used at the top and bottom of the block, med for the left side, and dark for the right side. Strips were sewn, trimmed, and squared as I went instead of cutting all the strips for the blocks in advance. If you cut in advance, I recommend making one sample block before cutting everything. Everyone sews a little differently. 

6” long            2 light

9-1/2”              2 light, 1 med., 1 dark

13-1/2”            2 light, 1 med., 1 dark

17-1/2”            2 light, 1 med., 1 dark

21-1/2”            1 med., 1 dark

Step 3 – Block assembly   

One block uses 16 strips – 8 light, 4 med, 4 dark and a shell center square

The block finishes at approx. 21-1/2” square

a. Sew 1 light strip to the top and 1 light strip to the bottom of a shell square. Press 

b. Sew 1 med strip to the left side and a dark strip to the right side – Press

c. Continue adding strips in this way until the block is completed with 4 strips on each side of the center square.  Make 9 blocks

Step 4 – Lay out the blocks in rows of 3 in the color arrangement you like the best.

Step 5 – Sew the blocks in to rows.  Press

Step 6 – Sew the rows together.  Press

Step 7 – Borders

Use remaining strips and letters to make 4 borders.

a. Layout strips around the edges of the quilt, auditioning for color.  I chose to put white at the top, med down the left side, dark down the right side and the bottom. Pretty much like the block. Place the letters of the word Sea in different places in the border to see where it reads best to you, vertical, horizontal… 

b. Measure across the center width of the quilt top to get accurate border length for top and bottom.  Measure down the center length of quilt top for border length of sides. Start sewing strips together end to end diagonally as you do when sewing binding strips together. Trim, press and add as many as you need to get desired length. 

c. Sew 3 of these long strips together to make each border strip set and add letters to two of the 4 sets.

d. Sew the side borders to the quilt top – sewing from centers out.  Press seams out and repeat this step for the top and bottom borders.  Measuring and then sewing from the center out helps to avoid wavy borders and the quilt to lay flat.

Step 8 – Quilt and bind

I used a swirl pattern called “Nesting Waves” by Ellen Munnich for the quilting on this one. Use more of the remaining strips to bind your quilt.   

One beachy quilted throw of a generous size, approx. 73” x 79”

Hope you have fun making this one. Be sure to stop by my blog in the next few days and get your name in for the giveaway (Thanks Moda).  Leave a beach related comment and we’ll put your name in the hat for a beautiful Seascapes Jelly Roll. Thanks so much. Robin   Craftsisters.com

Robin Nelson
{www.craftsisters.com}

Q&A with Oda May: The Fabric Sleuth

Join Oda May today for a fun tip on finding out about upcoming fabric lines from Moda.

{fabrics shown are from upcoming lines: Baby Jane by Eric and Julie Comstock, Flats by Angela Yosten, and Boho by Urban Chiks}

Dear Oda May,

All of my friends seem to know more about fabric than I do. They know all of the names of old fabrics lines and the ones in stores. They know all about the designers. They even know which fabric lines are coming out long before they are even available! I confess – I am a bit jealous of their fabric knowledge. I just can’t face another sewing circle where everyone is talking about the new Bonnie and Camille or Kansas Troubles line, and I’m in the dark. How can I ever keep up with them?

Competitive Quilter in Kansas City

Dear Competitive,

It seems your friends have been studying their selvages, but don’t fret, my dear. There is a wealth of fabric knowledge just at your fingertips. Visit the United Notions/Moda Fabrics website to see our archive of fabric lines {Fabric Collections}. You can search by Designer, Style, and Collection Name. Sort the collections by release date to see our upcoming lines.  Hope over to our {Meet the Designers} while you’re at it.

You will never be in the dark again!

In the Know,

Ring of Memories

Hi! It’s Quilted Works blogging with you today on the Moda Bake Shop. We are excited to be here again to share a unique project created by Rhonda Ferguson, an instructor here at Quilted Works. This super easy “Ring of Memories” is sure to be a project you’re going to want to make. It’s just perfect as a gift for little ones, because we all know kids LOVE to see pictures of themselves. And what a great way to accomplish that…with fabric of course!

• Family Pictures
• Charm Pack (one square for each picture)
• Iron-on Photo Transfer Paper
• Hobbs Batting – 3 1/2″ square for every two pictures
• 1/4″ (6mm) Eyelets and setting tools
• 2-inch metal book ring (found at office supply stores)

Picture Preparation:

* We realize there are numerous Photo Editing programs and different techniques you can use to edit your photos for print. Please choose whatever you’re comfortable with or follow our simple instructions.


Bring family pictures into a photo editing program and crop pictures to make them square. Make sure you leave enough room on the top left or right hand corner so that the eyelet will not interfere with the faces in your pictures – this should be approximately 1/2″. Save pictures to your desktop.

In Microsoft Word, open up a new document. Go to margins, and adjust them to .25″ on all sides. Go to Insert Picture, and insert a picture from the desktop. With the picture highlighted, click on text wrapping. Click on square (this allows you to move the picture anywhere on the page). In the picture toolbar, adjust the size to 3 1/2 x 3 1/2″. Move the picture to the top left hand corner.

Insert a total of six pictures onto the page using the steps listed above. Pictures will be end to end with the paper having 1/4″ margins. *You can print the photos any size you wish. We did the 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″ to maximize the use of our photo transfer paper.

Remove any paper from your printer’s paper tray and insert photo transfer paper (one at a time) into the tray. Using manufacturer’s directions, adjust settings as needed for your printer and print.

Continue to replace pictures in your layout with new pictures and print each new page of pictures.

Cut out pictures to 3 1/2 x 3 1/2″.

Choose a charm square for each picture. Place the picture in the center of the charm square and iron it on, according to manufacturer’s directions.
 

Sewing Instructions:

To reinforce the picture, sew 1/8″ inside each picture.

Group pictures in sets of two. Remember that you need to leave room for the eyelet so it doesn’t interfere with faces in the picture.

Make a sandwich with a picture square (right side down), then a layer of batting (centered over picture) and last another picture square (right side up).

Pin the square in each corner, lining up the corner of the top picture, the corner of the batting and the corner of the bottom picture.  Follow these instructions for each set of pictures.

With coordinating thread, sew 1/8″ away from edge of picture.

Eyelets:

Following directions on eyelet package, place eyelet in top left hand corner of each picture square.

We placed the eyelet on the picture and traced the inside, then cut out that small circle to fit the eyelet piece inside.

Trim edges of fabric square with pinking shears to desired size. I trimmed 1/4″ from each side.

Slide picture squares onto the 2″ metal ring and you’re done!  
 

One darling Photo Book! The perfect gift for baby!!!

Quilted Works
{www.quiltedworks.com}

Clover Cake Quilt

Mom and I are so excited to be bringing you our fourth recipe.  This one uses the lovely Cattails & Clover by Kansas Troubles which is absolutely gorgeous and a Bella Solid layer cake.  This quilt finishes around 80 x 80 inches.

Enjoy!
Mickey & April

sweetwater cotton shoppe

1 Cattails & Clover Layer Cake

1 Bella Solid Layer Cake Natural
1 yard brown for setting triangles
1 1/2 yards gold for outer border
5/8 yard woven for binding
5 yards backing
90 x 90 inches batting

From 41 of the prints in the layer cake cut the following (do NOT cut into strips cut each separately):
5 ⅞ inch square
3—3 ⅜ inch squares

Cut 5 ⅞ inch square in half diagonally once.

From 41 of the squares in the natural layer cake cut the following (do NOT cut into strips cut each separately):
3—3 ⅜ inch squares
4—3 inch squares
2—3 ¼ inch squares

Cut 2—3 ¼ inch squares in half diagonally once.

Piece together half square triangles using the 3 ⅜ inch squares.  For a total of 6.
(place squares face to face…draw a line diagonally and stitch a ¼ inch seam allowance and cut along the drawn line)

….these pictures would NOT load…

Piece together blocks as follows for a total of 41 blocks.

From the setting triangle fabric cut 2—15 ½ x 44 inch strips cut into 4—15 ½ inch squares cut in half diagonally twice (setting triangles) and 2—8 inch squares cut in half diagonally once (corners).

Layout quilt as in picture 5 x 5.

Cut 8—6 x 44 inch strips for wide border.  Piece together 4—6 x 88 inch strips then piece to sides first then top and bottom.

Cut backing in half and piece together to measure 86 x 90 inches.

Layer quilt with backing and batting and quilt as desired.  I machine quilted Clover Cake with a variagated thread in an over-lapping free-style meander.
***I machine quilt on a Juki, so i do not have a stitch regulator which makes some stitches longer.***

From the binding print cut 8—2 ¼ inch strips. 

Piece strips end to end.

Stitch strips down.

Roll strip around edge and stitch binding down–or hand stitch down on back.

1 Clover Cake Quilt measuring 80 x 80 inches.

Thanks for checking out our recipe. Be sure to check out our blog at {sweetwater cotton shoppe}.

If you are interested in purchasing a Clover Cake Quilt kit…visit our {online shop}.

happy quilting!

mickey & april

{sweetgirlstudio.wordpress.com}

Pixelated Patchwork Quilt

1 – Bright Bella Solids Fat Quarter Bundle (9900AB-31)
1 – Warm Bella Solids Fat Quarter Bundle (9900AB-32)
1 1/2 Yards – Bella Solids Washed Black (9900-118)
1 1/2 Yards – Essential Dots Brown (8654-23)

From the black fabric, cut:

• 1 rectangle, 10 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
• 2 rectangles, 8 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
• 6 rectangles, 6 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
• 19 squares, 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″
• 34 rectangles, 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″
• 60 squares, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/12″

From the Bella fat quarters, cut a total of:

• 132 squares, 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″

This unique modern design is achieved with simple patchwork. You’ll create a total of 10 rows, each measuring 40 1/2″ x 4 1/2″, which you will sew together to create the final quilt. Use a 1/4″ seam allowance throughout and press all seams open. 

I’ll walk you through the first row to get a sense of it:

• Sew together one 2 1/2″ red square and one 2 1/2″ black square.

• Sew the above unit to a short end of the 10 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ black rectangle, with the red triangle on top. 

• Sew an 8 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ black rectangle to the other side of the red-black square unit.

• Sew together a 2 1/2″ black square and a 2 1/2″ light blue square.

• Sew the above unit to the end of the row (the short end of the 8 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangle. 

• Sew a 4 1/2″ black square to the end of the row (the light blue-black square unit).

• Continuing creating and adding units in this manner to create the first row, as shown:

Use the blow diagram to complete all of the remaining rows in this same manner (the first sew is shown again in the diagram), sewing together units and adding these units to the ends of the rows as you work. Sew each row to the previous row as you complete it. 

Notes: You don’t have to use the exact same color placements, just avoid having two squares of the same color next to one another. I’ve labeled the 10 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ and 8 1/2″ x 4 1/” rectangles for clarity. All other large black rectangles are 6 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. Keep an eye out for the dark blue and dark purple– they’re not black!

Baste and quilt as desired, using the Essential Dots as your backing fabric. I quilted a continuous curly cue, starting from the center of the quilt and using black thread.

Bind your quilt with the remaining black fabric. I used 2 1/2″ binding strips to create a 1/4″ binding that’s fairly subtle.

One colorful and contemporary 40 1/2″ x 40 1/2″ quilt. The perfect size for a baby quilt or wall hanging.

Pippa Armbrester
{pippapatchwork.com}

Retro Table Topper (Unlined)

22 light/medium Layer Cake squares (10″ x 10″)
7 dark Layer Cake squares

10 or more 10″ lengths of rickrack in a variety of widths; 5 3/8 yards of jumbo rickrack for outer edge

For my sample, I used pinking shears to finish all the seams. If you own a serger, this would be a great serger project. Seams are 1/4″. Press between steps.

From the 7 dark squares cut a total of 40 strips that measure 1 1/2″ x 10″. Cut 4 of the light/medium squares to measure 5 1/4″ x 10″. You may want to lay out all the squares on your design wall to determine which 4 to cut.

On your design wall or work table, lay out all the squares and strips as shown, with the  5 1/4″ pieces at the top and bottom of Columns 2 and 4. The 1 1/2″ strips are placed at the upper and lower edge of each square and at only one edge of the 5 1/4″ pieces, as shown in the photo.

Sew the squares and strips together to create the 5 columns. Pink the edges of the seam allowances and press. Don’t sew the columns together yet.

If you’ve opted for adding rickrack, topstitch 10″ pieces to the top of the seams where the 1 1/2″ strips join. I didn’t sew rickrack between EVERY pair of strips, but it would be cute that way. I was using whatever scraps I had that matched!

After adding the rickrack, sew the 5 columns together. After sewing, pink the seams and press.

Fold under 1/4″ around the outer edge of the Table Topper and press. Topstitch a scant 1/8″ from the pressed edge. The raw edge will be hidden by the jumbo rickrack.

Beginning several inches from one corner of the Table Topper, lay the jumbo rickrack UNDER the stitched edge of the Topper, leaving a 2″ tail where you begin sewing. Topstitch through all layers 1/8″ from the first stitching.

At the corners, fold the rickrack diagonally to make it “turn” the corner. When you’re a few inches from where you began adding rickrack, take the Topper out of the machine (clipping threads), and determine where you need to make a seam in the rickrack so that it fits the remaining un-sewn edge. After sewing this seam, trim away the extra rickrack and press the seam open. I applied Fray Block® to the rickrack seam. Finish topstitching the rickrack to the Table Topper edge.

This pattern is a variation of a crib quilt in my new pattern “Baby Days”, available at quilt shops or from www.seamsndreams.com.

Option:
Rather than hemming the Table Topper as explained above, cut a backing piece a little larger than your Topper–this may require sewing 2 pieces of fabric together. Place it right sides together with the Topper and sew around the edge (Table Topper edge as a guide), leaving a 6-8″ gap for turning. Trim the backing to match the top, clip the corners on the diagonal, and turn the Topper right side out. Press. Add rickrack around the edge as directed above.

46″ x 47 1/2″

Happy sewing!

Kara Schorstein
{www.seamsndreams.com}